Harper's Bazaar 1913-09: Vol 48 Iss 3

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ye? Mies pe Scien a dhirwe is A New Story Conan Doyle September 1913 Price 15 Cents 1913 by Harper's Bazar Inc. Copyrighted in Great Britain and France:

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SCRIBNERS MAGAZINE In SEPTEMBER will appear the first of Four Articles by Theodore Roosevelt The Life History of the African Lion Fally Ilustrated followed by other articles on the Life Histories of the Great African Animals —The Elephant, The Rhino and the Hippo, ‘This and the following articles are in no sense hunting articles. I have elsewhere described the chase Of these articles he says: The Buffalo and Giant Eland. of the big game. Far more interesting than the chase itself is the observation, the study of the life histories of the strange and wonderful creatures of the wilderness. These articles represent an attempt to present the life histories of the most interesting among the beasts of the African jungles; they are based mainly on first-hand observation, but are also in part based on the cumu- lative observations of many other men. Daybreak in the Grand Canyon—A Poem by Henry Van Dyke, Minister to the Netherlands. The Romantic Founding of Washington, by Thomas Nelson Page, Ambassador to Italy. The little known and eventful story of how the National Capitol came to be built on the shores of the Potomac. A Gallic Victory, by Maarten Maartens. A highly romantic story of the Franco-German War, with a remarkable series of illustrations by Castaigne. Stories—Anna Lipinsky’s Star Flag, a _ patriotic story, by Barry Benefield; a « humorous sea story, The Battle- Cruise of the Svend Foyn, by a B. Connolly. Illustrated. Mural Painting in America, by E. H. Blashfield. Illustrations from photographs and sketches of the author’s work. The Progressive Ideal in School Manage- ment, by Francis E. Leupp. The Modern Girls’ School and Its Methods. IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT For Next Year Theodore Roosevelt will contribute to Scribner’s Magazine the account of the trip which he will take in the early months of 1914 into the Paraguayan and Brazilian interior, where he expects to travel by canoe and on foot through the great South American tropical forest. ~~. les a a i His experiences, observations of the country, the people, and the animal life will appear solely in Scribner’s Magazine. $3.00 a year; 25 cents a number CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, Fifth Ave. at 48th St., New York

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Sir Arthur Conan Doyle Harper’s Bazar | FOR SEPTEMBER, 1913 4) Vol. XLVIII Forty-eighth Year No. 3 IN THIS ISSUE Conan Doyle’s The cover is by Drian Latest and best short story, “Borrowed Scenes,” The world’s most famous fashion artist, who quite unlike anything he has previously written. will draw exclusively for the Bazar during 1913-34. (See page 13) (See Cover) ’ . t Frederick Townsend Martin’s John Wanamaker’s New Home London Society Letter. With exclusive pictures. (See page 5) (See page 24 t * E. W. Hornung’s Charles Dana Gibson’s Mystery story “The Thousandth Woman.” Each Suggestion to Bores. instalment will contain an incident of compelling interest. (See page 4) . (See page 6) s Paradise Lady Dutt Gordon By Frances Aymar Mathews, with a picture Gives the latest word in fashions. of the Serpent by Sarah Stilwell Weber. (See page 16) (See page 17) The Countess of Warwick $200,000,000 for Nine Children Contributes an article on foods and beauty. With photographs never before published. (See page 36) The Bathers at Bailey’s Beach Gaby Des Lys ; ; Shows our readers her new cloth America’s most exclusive playground. (See page 19) Piping Rock and the Members The Gilded You th of London Of America’s great sporting club. R obe rt W. Ch 4 mber 5’ | : Latest story “The Orange Puppy.” Worth of Paris (See pase 30) The famous dressmaker writes exclusively for Paris Fashions and Millinery ; the Bazar. Illustrated from his latest models. : (See gese 30 Throughout the book. Harper’s Bazar is published monthly by Harper’s Bazar, Inc., George von Utassy, President ; S. S. Carvalho, Treasurer; M. De Witt, Secretary, 119 West 40th } St.. New York City. Single Copies, 15 cents. Yearly subscriptions, $1.25. “ When you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew at once, using the blank inclosed, so that no interruption will occur in your receipt of The Bazar. In requesting change of address please give the address to which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. Entered at the New York Post-office as second-class mail Copyright. 1913, by Harper's Bazar, Inc. Address all communications to HARPER’S BAZAR, 119 West 40th Street, New York City

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, ae Se 4 Rea; : Ls ’ heal B 2° CHlarpers Bayar Ss ° / C wo See ; , SENG z a4 4 * eee Ms: ‘ @Dersonal Shopping Service | ny E=\I By we [ES HERE are trained shoppers and skilled buyers | Ne. Ors Fy ever ready and willing to purchase anything F hee | We and everything you desire in the great New Z Ht A York market. We make no charge and accept 3 nt | no commissions from merchants. This depart- ci ae ment is conducted wholly in the spirit of help- ; a A fulness. Tell us how we may serve you. E | IF ae 2 2 A = fi Je ps a a/ It is not required that you restrict specialty shops would enhance — —- BOBS V « 5 your choice to articles mentioned the joy of giving and receiving. f 1: ? 0 a” in the Bazar. We buy everything Ven & | dvi d ; My \i for the costume,—choice gowns ou have only to advise us, de- e=1/¥% & lingerie, hats, shoes, etc., and scribing what you wish and en- = Va D ae everything for the home,—fine rugs, ong = po pp oth ape din = n Ht x china, furniture, interes etc. pe: ng Naturally, we cannot open — fi tl ¢¥ We offer exceptional advantages _ charge accounts. \Z te H 4 in the purchase of wedding and — , + & ti 7 mourning outfits, infants’ and chil. | Should you desire information rel- =" / — dren’s clothes, riding, traveling and ative to any goods, write us fully, —\e fc ‘c— motoring wear, toilet requisites, 2%d enclose stamped envelope re th > finebooks, engraved stationery, etc. or reply. = re N Probably you would like some- Write for Harper’s Bazar Measurement a BY | thing for gift purposes; atoken Bian With your comple wihanything = Ee hi i from one of New York’s splendid required for personal use. : i bias pl LY AG ie a ei Address “Personal Shopping Service” = A if be P } ay ait ne 7 t | HARPER’S BAZAR | 4. Hin Ve Sacut Me: _ Hy 119 WEST 40TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY /|--\¥ ff tu ti , : Bis ad aa vill we > (Gs nH te tre sisi ee UUs ge at iY Na [iD Ae Pn rn eee ge ~ Winns aartimarsere oe See ee b yo Ba SI : f 7 5 ™ ; Ted y . ; per Te i qu Passiszecctaces: - ye ma 2 %y eae werae ts ;

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Ta co UB i “Behind The Scenes” It falls to the pleasurable drama, to help in the ‘Stag- ing or setting of the home, to participate in the selection | of costumes and properties; | ; S | Fifth Avenue Studio. portion of a magazine of | merit to enter behind the | *“*A Perfect Likeness.’’ We shall take pleas- scenes of the great domestic | | postp Stearns and Beale, 217-219 Centre St., to gain the ear and the con- | fidence of the Leading Lady who plays the important part of Purchasing Agent in thousands of prosperous households. The Bazar in a great meas- ure acts as Prompter, timing | the entrance of new goods | and the exit of things that have outlived their useful- ness, shifting the scenery to conform to changing sea- sons, suggesting extra touch- es here and there that other- wise might be overlooked or neglected. Not the least of the Bazar’s | many functions is to bring things about, to start an in- terchange of pleasant rela- tions between the worthy folk who choose to announce their goods orservice through our columns, and the great host of readers who are pleased to listen—and learn —and buy. The purpose of this page “Where to Shop” is to fur- ther the interests of our mu- tual friends, subscribers and advertisers. Permit us to in- troduce you, and to hope you may become well ac- quainted. | average of twenty-five words. Rate for Classified Advertising Under This acca One Year Thirty Dollars Payable quarterly in advance, five per cent cash discount. in advance, ten per. cent cash discount. Uniform type. preceding month. idesecesesesesesesese’ehekescesebese soles Sese Payable yearly, Space limited to four agate lines, Forms close first of fsa ce med Art Photography It is the ability to catch the natural expression and to portray the personality of the subject that enables us secure & Hair Goods 4 Hair Dressing | Simon’s Hair Sh Importer and manu- facturer of Hair G ond Toilet Requisites, Manicuring, a Treatment. 59th St., ace Massage, Sca! *eTel. oy 5646. ure in showing you some of our photographs. Fifth Avenue Studio, 333 Fifth Avenue, New York, Opposite Waldorf-Astoria, cor. 33rd St. Auction Bridge ** Bridge Party ’’ Score Pads. Royal (lily) —" em. Made in 6 tinted papers, 25c. a pad, $2.50 a doz. aid. Circulars Pe. Boas, Feathers, etc. H. Methot, French Feather Dyer and Dresser. Originator of the Art of Reconstruction. Old feathers made into New. 29 West 34th Street, New York. Mme. Block. Willow plumes made into hand- some French plumes, a collarette or chic nov- elty. Paradise aigrettes cleaned, remodeled. Mail orders filled. 36 West 34th St., New York. Children’s Clothes | Children’s Wear from infancy to 12 yrs. Gar- ments made to order, smocked and exclusive models. Boys’ dresses, 1 to 6 yrs., specialty. | Beebe & Shaddle, 38 W. 33d St. Tel. 7537 Mad. | | Baby Garments. Attractively hand made. | Infants to two years. Assortment sent for selection. Send for booklet. Mrs. J. A. Mc- Millan, 119 Fuller Ave., Grand Rapids, Mich. Chiropody Dr. E. N. Cogswell, Expert Manicuring. Dr. Cogswell’s Foot Tonic insures foot comfort, $1._ Foot Ointment, 50c. | Toilet Powder, 25c. 418 Fifth Ave., New York Surgeon Chiropodist. | Corsets **My Husband’s Corset.’’ Whole back, no lacing to do, no clasp. To measure $18.00 upward. Watson, 17 East 48th St., N. Y. City. Gossard Front Laced Corsets, Bien Jolie Grecien Trico corsets fitted by experienced | corsetieres, $3.50 up. Corsets to order, $1 Olmstead Corset Co., 44 W. 22nd St., N. Y. Hygienic Front-Laced Corset. 33 West 36th Street. Physicians recommend them. Comfort and fashion combined. Especially de- sirable for speakers and singers. $3.50 and up. T. Thoma, Corseti ing: 25 W. 33d Street. ere. Astor Court Build- Telephone 469 Murray Dancing | Modern Dances taught privately by Mr. G. Hepburn Wilson. Magnificent Studios. | Expert instruction only; tuition reasonable. Aeolian Hall, 33 W. 42d St. 4923 Bryant. Dress Plaiting & Trimmings Sadleir—Accordion and side plaitings, pink- ing, buttons covered; . -- ing, dyeing of nets, chiffons, fringes, etc. Gloves cleaned. Maii orders promptly filled. 38 W. 34th St. Electrolysis Treatment for Superfluous Hair | A. Will shop with you or send anythin | Mrs. | General shopping for and with customers. | Personal interest taken in every order. Lace & Lingerte yr: Carlton Lace Shem. 402 Madison Ave., 47th. Mme. DeVoll. Rare and popular h, Filet. specialties, Limerick rick- macross, Italian embroidered linens, Blouses. | The Lingerie Shop. Hand embroidered French lingerie at much less than usual prices. Buy — direct importer. a for cata- logue. L. Leon P. Bailly, 54 W. 39, N. Y. Ladtes’ Tailors | Children’s Surprise- Boxes, Toilet Preparations All Actresses use Hepner’s Toilet Prepara- tions. Send 25c in stamps for sample Beauty Box containing massage cream, cold cream, face powder and lip rouge. 1456 B'way, Dept. 29. MacCloud Scotch Oat-Meal Cream. Emol- lient removes tan. A necessity in nursery. Un- surpassed massage and cleansing cream. 50c the Eurelle, Lincoln Tr. Bidg., 72nd St., N.Y. jar. Your Hair and Complexion scientifically cared for by a specialist of seventeen years ex- rience. James B. Quinn, 45 W. 34th St., N.Y. Nocharge for consultation. Oily Hair made fluffy in five minutes with antiseptic hair powder. Guaranteed Pure and harmless. 25cts. perbox. Dr. A. N.C. Thorp, aip | Box 367, Atlantic City, N. J. | Reta A. Kraus, Me. Marinello Main N. Y. | Beauty Office, 366 5: | and neck bleaching. pba Sh electrolysis. Acne Av. Instantaneous face treatments. Toilet prep’ns. Tel.Greeley 5527. Unusual Gifts for convales- Each made NW. ¥.'0. cence, birthdays, or journeys. to suit the child. Prices from $4. Elizabeth H. Pusey, 16 East 48th St., Miss Stevenson’s Shop, Sewickley, Pa., will be where you will buy your Christmas and other gifts. Send for booklet. Wheelock-Pellerin, 11 West, 46th Street. Exclusive st les only. No two suits alike. Tailored Gowns on F ig), wi ailing styles. 19 years’ experience. omstock, 286 Fifth Avenue, New ork. Tailored suits from $65 up. Tel. 158 Madison Square. Lust, Ladies’ Tailor. Special attention tg B to mail orders. Fifth Ave., cor. 47th , New York. phone 2043 Bryant. | Riding Habits. | 580 Tele- | Miscellaneous Mme. Naftal pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used Evening, street and dinner costumes, furs, diamonds; Jewelry. 69 West 45th St. Telephone 670 Bryant. Vacuum Clothes Washer washes tub of clothes in 5 min., saves labor, wear and money. 2 sizes—small can be used in wash-basin, fine for yy i ee Call, write, R. 618, 501 5th Av, %. TT Heraldic Paintings correctly painted in water color. Size 8x19 $5. Searches free. Dies for stationery engraved. Nathan Van- Patten, Box 807, Schenectady, N. Y Photography The Lilian George Studios. Home portraits at residences. Sepia Monotone enlargements or miniatures made from photographs and films. 5 W. 58th St., N. Y. Tel. 4876 laza. Shampooing English Girls are renowned for beautiful hair. The secret is Amami-Henna Shampoo, univer- sally used abroad, 60c.; sample 10c. Prichard & Constance, 49 W. 23rd St.. ept.H., New York. Shopping Commissions Janet Porter Shops for or with patrons. Nocharge. Prompt, careful attention. Circular. Bank references. 253 W. 93rd St., N. Y. Tel. Riverside 6177. | Mrs. F. N. Davison. Registered—experienced. Shops for and with customers. No charge. Personal attention given your order. Circular. Tel. 1866 Bryant, 227 West 45th St., N. Y Mrs. Cc. B. Williams, New York Shopping. on ap- Services free. Send for bulletin of 366 Fifth Avenue, New York. roval. argains. Mrs. S. D. Johnson shops for and with customers without charge. Rush mourning orders and rugs a specialty. 347 5th Ave., opp. Waldorf-Astoria. Tel. 2070 Murray Hill. E. Martin, 120 East 31st St., N. Y. No charge. 2602 Madison Square. Superfluous Hair, Moles and facial blem- ishes permanently removed by electricity. Painless. Electrolysis Co.,104 E. 40th St., New York. Tel. Murray Hill 1844. 8S. P. Gilmore. Fancy Dress & Costumes Specialty Shops Van Rensselaer Cramer Studio—The Only Box Shop in Boxes Covered to order. valentines, etc. 10 E. 48th St. M. H Masquerade Costumes—Any period made to measure. To rent or for sale. New ideas for fancy dress —, ew Costuming Co., 150 W. 48th St., C. J. Dierckx (pronounced ‘‘Deerx’’), spends three months abroad every year selectin unique & artistic novelties for gifts etc. Retail: 34 W. 36th St., Wholesale: 8 Barclay St., N. Y. Furs Tea Rooms | Fur Remodeling. Specialty of Renovating | Alma B. Conrey—Tea Shop, 150 W. 57th St. | Old Fur Garments. Prices as low as consistent | Branch of Cosey Tea Shop, 19 E. 33rd_ St. | with good workmanship. A. H. Green & Son, | Breakfast, Luncheon, Tea, Table d' Hote Din- 25 West 23rd St., N. ¥Y. Phone 1162 Grmcy. | ner,75c. Delicious home cooking. Tel. Col. 8568. To Whom It Should Concern Business people who have an interesting message for Bazar readers will find this page a most worthy means of expression. You should tell the sales story of your goods, or your service, to this most atten- tive and appreciative audi- ence—this page points the way. The time is now—the place ishere. You will be in good company. Join the “Pre- ferred List of Advertisers ” in this department. You will gain an entree into the right circles, and your appeal will be dignified and _magnified by the high tone Art Novelties, Cards for dinner, every polidey. | of the publication.

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ihson y Cartoons by Charles Dana G ihird in the Series of Harper s Bazar’'s Societ A Suggestion to Bores—Pick out a young one—she won’t know how to escape THE PRINCESS MAUD Bertha. the title, in accordance with the special privilege granted by Kin dowager duchess of Fife is King Edward’s oldest daughter. Photograph by Underwood and Underwood. THE DUCHESS OF FIFE The latest photograph of Alexandra Victoria Alberta Edwina Louise, Duchess of Fife, and her sister, the Princess Maud Alexandra Victoria Upon the death of her father, Alexander William George Duff, the then Princess Alexandra in default of male issue succeeded to ward in 1900 at the time that he created the duke, Earl of Macduff. The n November, 1905, the King was pleased to declare that the Princess Louise, Duchess of Fife, should be called Princess Royal and that her daughters should be princesses with the right to be called Highness and to take rank immediately after members of the Royal family bearing the style of Royal ighness. Arthur of Connaught will unite two branches of the British royal family. Lorederick —JSownsend Nartire EpDITOR’S NoTE:—The old traditions are dead in London, or at least dormant. Nowadays, Mr. Martin tells us, the young people are running things to suit themselves. HE season which has just passed was remarkable for the fact that the younger set came into greater prominence than ever. It seems that the days are gone when the older element of society controlled things. This revolution has been brought about largely by American influence, and I am inclined to think the older people are becoming recon- ciled to the new condition of things. Chaperones Are Out of Date At tea the other afternoon I met a number of young girls with their young men friends, without any chaperone. They were discussing the numerous parties which have been given this year for young people only. Turning to Lady Diana, one of the most charming of the group, I said: “Of course, your mother took you to these parties?’”’ ‘“O, dear, no!” she replied, “that is all quite old fashioned. My maid goes with me, and either sits in the dress- ing room, or comes for me afterwards, I don’t mind which.” How different when I was a boy. The young girls then sat, prim and silent, while the mothers monopolized the conversation. I remember hearing Lady Donoughmore, a noted character in London during the seventies, say when asked For September, 1913 why she had not brought her daughter into the drawing room: “It’s such a nuisance, my dear, to have young people about—they hamper the conversation.” Society this year, thank fortune, has been in- terested in something besides the tango and rag- time. A keen taste has developed for aviation. Everybody Wants to Fly An amusing incident happened recently. Hamel the noted aviator was to make an ascent near London, and had promised Lord Abing- don’s daughter, Lady Elizabeth Bertie, that he would take her up with him. But he had been sworn to secrecy. When the day ar- rived, a great many people came to see the flying, and Lady Abingdon did not notice when her daughter slipped away in the crowd. As Hamel rose into the air, Lady Abingdon was carried away with enthusiasm. ‘‘ Oh, how pleased Betty will be to see this wonderful sight! But where can she be?” Her friends pointed up into the air. “‘ There is Betty! She is waving to you from the sky.” When Lady Betty reached ferra firma, her mother was so relieved that she forgot to scold and I expect secretly admired her daughter for the courage she had shown. I met Lady Betty at lunch shortly after. She sat on my left. On my right was Lady Dorothy Fraser, representing the old conserva- - Pe) The marriage of the Duchess of Fife to Prince tive element of London’s social world. Thus situated, I had an excellent opportunity to bring up the question of American dances, and I wish you could have seen Lady Betty’s eyes sparkle when she said: ‘I just Jove them, and I dance them every night, often until four or five in the morning.” “Oh! those dreadful dances!” exclaimed Lady Dorothy Fraser. I turned and said, “There is one thing, madame, I fear we must all admit. Our old fashioned views no longer influence this younger generation. It is profitless to wear yourself out combating the inevitable!”’ Enterprising as the young people may be in these days, I am sure that none of them would have the courage to emulate the example of an old lady with an enormous income and social power opposite to whom I sat at table not long since. She was struggling with a peach, and literally scraping the fruit from the stone. I could not resist the temptation to lean forward and offer her a nectarine. ‘I do hope that you will commence this,” I said. Her face brightened. “How kind of you!” and she crammed the nectarine into her gold purse. As I write the gay world is scattering, some of the people going to Scotland, some to the watering places on the continent. But there are still seven millions left here in London who do not care a rap how this little handful of fashionables struggle to capture that butterfly called Pleasure.

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e Thousand Woman A Small World AZALET sat up so suddenly that his head hit the woodwork over the upper berth. His own voice still rang in his startled ears. He won- dered how much he had said, and how far it could have carried above the throb of the liner’s engines and the mighty pounding of the Bay against her plates. Then his assembling senses coupled the light in the cabin with his own clear recollection of having switched it off before turning over. And then he remembered how he had been left behind at Naples, and only rejoined the Kaiser Fritz at Genoa, to find that he no longer had a cabin to himself. A sniff assured Cazalet that he was neither alone at the moment nor yet the only one awake; he pulled back the swaying curtain, which he had taken to keeping drawn at night; and there sure enough on the settee, with the thinnest of cigarettes between his muscular fingers, sat a man with a strong blue chin and the ‘ft “I say, have I been talking in my sleep?’’ 4 & 5 A A ¥ EpITOR’s NoTE.—The excitement of a murder mystery and the charm of a love story—the love of the “thousandth woman’”—combine to make this latest novel by the author of “Raffles” one of the most com- pelling tales you will run across in a decade. quizzical solemnity of an animated Sphinx. It was his cabin companion, an American citizen named Hilton Toye, and Cazalet ad- dressed him with nervous familiarity. “T say! Have I been talking in my sleep?” “Why, yes!” replied Hilton Toye, and broke into a smile that made a human being of him. Cazalet forced a responsive grin, as he reached for his own cigarettes. “What did I say?” he asked, with an amused curiosity at variance with his shaking hand and shining forehead. Toye took him in from crown to finger-tips, with something deep behind his kindly smile. “‘T judge,” said he, “‘you were dreaming of some drama you’ve been seeing ashore, Mr. Cazalet.” “Dreaming!” said Cazalet, wiping his face. “It was a nightmare! I must have turned in too soon after dinner. But I should like to know what I said.” “T can tell you word for word. You said, ‘Henry Craven—dead!’ and then you said, ‘Dead—dead—Henry Craven!’ as if you’d got to have it both ways to make sure.” “Tt’s true,” said Cazalet, shuddering. “I saw him lying dead, in my dream.” Hilton Toye took a gold watch from his waistcoat pocket. “Thirteen minutes to one, in the morning,” he said, “‘and now it’s September 18th. Take a note of that, Mr. Cazalet. It may be another 6 case of second sight for your Psychical Research Society.” “T don’t care if it is.” furiously. Cazalet was smoking As to Henry Craven “Meaning it was no great friend you dreamed was dead?” “No friend at all, dead or alive!” “T’m kind of wondering,” said Toye, winding his watch up slowly, “if he’s by way of being a friend of mine. I know a Henry Craven in England. Lives along the river, down King- ston way, in a big house—” “called Uplands?” “Yes! That’s where he world, isn’t it?” The man in the upper berth had to hold on as his curtains swung clear; the man tilted back on the settee, all attention all the time, was more than ever an effective foil to him. Without the kindly smile that went as quickly as it came, Hilton Toye was somber, subtle, and demure. Cazalet, on the other hand, was of sanguine complexion and impetuous looks. He was tanned a rich bronze about the middle of the face, but it broke off across his forehead like the coloring of a meerschaum pipe. Both men were in their early prime, and each stood roughly for his race and type; the traveled American who knows the world, and the ele- Harper’s Bazar belongs. Little

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“Tt’s true,” mental Britisher who has made some uttermost end of it his own. “T thought of my Henry Craven,” continued Toye, “‘as soon as ever you came out with yours. I might have known it was the same if I’d recollected the name of his firm. Isn’t it Craven and Cazalet, the stockbrokers, down in Tokenhouse Yard?” “That’s it,” said Cazalet bitterly. “But there have been none of us in it since my father died ten years ago.”’ “But you’re Henry Craven’s old partner’s son?” : “T’m his only son.” “Then no wonder you dream about Henry Craven,” cried Toye, “and no wonder it wouldn’t break your heart if your dream came true.” “Tt wouldn’t,” said Cazalet through his teeth. ‘‘He wasn’t a white man to me or mine —whatever you may have found him.” “Oh! I don’t claim to like him a lot.” “But you seem to know a good deal about him?” “T had a little place near his one summer. I only know what I heard down there.” The Record of the Man “What did you hear?” said Cazalet. “I’ve been away ten years, ever since the crash that ruined everybody but the man at the bottom of the whole thing. It would be a kindness to tell me what you heard.” “Well, I guess you’ve said it yourself right now. That man seems to have beggared everybody all around except himself; that’s how I make it out,” said Hilton Toye. “He did worse,” said Cazalet in a low voice. “He killed my poor father; he banished me to the wilds of Australia; and he sent a better man than himself to prison for fourteen years!” Toye opened his dark eyes for once. “Is that so? No. I never heard that,” said he. For September, 1913 ~ said Cazalet, shuddering. “You hear it now. He did all that, indi- rectly, and I don’t care who knows I say so. I didn’t realize it at the time. I was too young, and the whole thing laid me out too flat; but I know it now and I’ve known it long enough. It was worse than a crash. It was a scandal. That was what finished us off, all but Henry Craven! There’d been a gigantic swindle— special investments recommended by the firm— bogus certificates and all the rest of it. We were all to blame, of course. My poor father ought never to have been a business man at all; he should have been a poet. Even I—I was only a youngster in the office, but I ought to have known what was going on. But Henry Craven did know. He was in it up to the neck, though a fellow called Scruton did the actual job. Scruton got fourteen years—and Craven 9 got our old house on the river! The Tale of the Scapegoat “And feathered it pretty well!’ said Toye, nodding. ‘Yes, I did hear that. And I can tell you they don’t think any better of him, in the neighborhood, for going to live right there. But how did he stop the other man’s mouth, and—how do you know?” “Never mind how I know,” said Cazalet. *“‘Scruton was a friend of mine, though an older man; he was good to me, though he was a wrong ’un himself. He paid for it—paid for two—that I can say! But he was engaged to Ethel Craven at the time, was going to be taken into partnership on their marriage, and you can put two and two together for yourself.” “Did she wait for him?” “About as long as you’d expect of the breed! She was her father’s daughter. I wonder you didn’t come across her and her husband.” “T didn’t see so much of the Craven crowd,” replied Hilton Toye. ‘I wasn’t struck on them either. Say, Cazalet, I wouldn’t be that old man when Scruton comes out, would you?” But Cazalet showed that he could hold his 7 “I saw him, lying dead, Drawings by A. B. Wenzell in my dream.” tongue when he liked, and his grim look was not so legible as some that had come and gone be- fore. This one stuck until Toye produced a big flask from his grip, and the talk shifted to less painful ground. It was the last night in the Bay of Biscay, and Cazalet told how he had been in it a fortnight on his way out by sailing-vessel. Fighting It Out in the Bush “‘T remember thinking I would dig for gold,” said Cazalet. “‘That’s all I knew about Aus- tralia; that and bushrangers and dust-storms and bush-fires! But you can have adventures of sorts if you go far enough up country for ’em; it still pays you to know how to use your fists out there. I didn’t, but I was picking it up before I’d been out three months, and in six I was as ready as anybody to take off my coat. I remember once at a bush shanty they dished up such fruity chops that I said I’d fight the cook if they’d send him up; and I’m blowed if it wasn’t a fellow I’d been at school with and worshiped as no end of a swell at games! Potts his name was, old Venus Potts, the handsomest chap in the school among other things; and there he was, cooking carrion at twenty-five bob a week! Instead of fighting we joined forces, got a burr-cutting job on a good station, then a better one over shearing, and after that I wormed my way in as bookkeeper, and my pal became one of the head overseers. Now we’re our own bosses with a share in the show, and the owner comes up only once a year to see how things are looking.”’ “T hope he had a daughter,” said Toye, ‘‘and that you’re going to marry her, if you haven’t yet?” The Girl and the Photograph Cazalet laughed, but a shadow had returned. “No. I left that to my pal,” he said. “He did that all right!” (Continued on page 32)

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Mrs. Fish’s Fairy Dance At Her Newport Home—The Crossways Photographed by The Campbell Studios The Crossways Story of the Dance A large witch bestride a broomstick flying at one end of the ball room, big black cats with twinkling eyes, sheaves of wheats and hobgoblins in the cor- ners of the superb hall and dining room, were some of the realistic decorations used by Mrs. Fish to make a fitting setting for her Fairy ball. The Fairies began to gather as the clock struck eleven, and not even Cinderella — Margaret Andrews under her rags and patches—noticed when the clock struck twelve, nor thought of going home until after two. The fairies came by twos and threes in very modern motor cars, not a single pumpkin coach in the long line of equipages which wound along Bellevue Avenue and up the hill on which “The Crossways” the Fish resi- dence is situated. The nearest thing to Cinderella’s famed coach was the beauti- ful yellow coach in which Mrs. Elsie French Vanderbilt, dressed as Snow Carroll Hy Mrs. Arthur ; | j White, rode in high state. Mother Goose was there in the person of Mrs. Her- man Oelrichs in blue satin with her goose under her arm. Mrs. Fish as the Fairy Queen, gorgeously arrayed in white satin, received her guests at the foot of the marble stairway in the hall. Her niece Janet Fish, ar- rayed as a goose girl, received with her. The ball opened with a series of dances arranged by a clever Norwegian girl Ingra Sontam, and followed by a quadrille performed by several of the young girls of the colony, Marguerite Caperton, Elsie Stevens, Mimi Scott and Natalja Willard a, ig Ll - 7 i ; Bubyiile r e a ;= A ig oleae edl a LS ier a v A Om - ered f e* ‘ aat 2 ae Elizabeth Sands Gabriella Warren, all in quaint and ethereal costumes. Between dances the fairies retreated to the gardens where big red and yellow lanterns transformed the prosaic everyday scene into a veritable fairy land. The house, set upon a hill, 8 Mr. and Mrs. John R. Abney was a blazing landmark for miles around, even from far out at sea. One of Bluebeard’s wives was Mrs. Arthur Carroll, but Bluebeard himself was absent. Jack Spratt was present without his wife. The Jumping Joans were represented by Roberta and Natalja Willard, and Elizabeth Sands as a char- acter from one of Perrault’s stories was a charming picture. Mrs. Stuart Duncan was one of the several Bo-Peeps, another was Angelica Gerry who carried a live lamb. Mrs. Richard Stevens as a met- maid and Mrs. John Astor in a marvel- ous emerald green costume were sump- tuous pictures, although not representing fairies. Mr. and Mrs. John Abney also wore memorable costumes. Although not disappearing at twelve o’clock as all good fairies should, they rapidly faded away when the orchestra played “Home Sweet Home” at three in the morning. Harper’s Bazar

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For September, 1913 Photograph by Aimé Dupont Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish A Hostess of International Renown At her houses in Newport, New York, and Garrisons-on-the-Hudson, Mrs. Fish entertains not only lavishly but with a marked degree of originality. The Fairy Ball given at “The Crossways” in August will be remembered by everyone as an exceedingly brilliant affair. By giving it she injected new life into what had promised to be the most moribund season Ne rt has known for years. Sopra tub stands for all that is best in American society. He comes of a family that has always been notable in American history. His father wassecretary of war in Lincoln’s cabinet, and his ancestors held a prominent place in Colonial affairs. Mrs. Fish, who before her marriage was Miss Marian Anthon, also comes of a family well known in New York for generations. When in residence in the old historic Fish mansion at Garrisons Mrs. Fish entertains most charmingly, because most informally. In the winters when her New York house, one of the late Stanford White’s most successful achieve- ments, is closed, her absence is more felt in New York than that of any other hostess could be. Her dancing parties have become as much an institution in their way as were the balls given by the late Mrs. Astor.

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AMERICAS Most ExclusiVe® tee, Bathin€ B ea ch Photographs by : . y International News Service and Underwood and Underwood, EpITOR’s NoTE.—The summer colony at Newport gather at Bailey’s Beach every day at noon. No one except subscribers to the Spouting Rock Beach Association has the priv- ilege of entering upon this tiny bit of shore. POUTING ROCK, to give the beach its quaint Indian name, presents a colourful scene at the bathing hour. Nowhere else in America does one see such an aggregation of ultra fashionable men and women. Newport women make a business of bathing, but they hurry away promptly at one o’clock, for every hour has its pleasure and there is no y time for one to linger on the sands in Ps bathing costume. In the groups shown here are many members of Beginning at the left in the upper group is Janet Fish. The next figure to the right facing is Mrs. Leonard Thomas. Mrs. Thomas has the slender figure which displays to the best advantage the rather trying Baya- dere sash. Talking to Alfonso de Navarro is Mrs. Oliver Gould Jennings. Mrs. Norman Whitehouse and Dorothea Kane present ex- the colony. cellent examples of the Newport morning costume. Mrs. Herbert Harriman, on the right of the upper group, is a clever tennis player and is noted for her chic sporting togs. Mrs. Robert Goelet and Mrs. Reginald Vander- bilt are two young matrons who drive them- selves to the beach in their high-powered cars. In the centre of the page is Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish and in the lower right-hand corner is Miss Twombly carrying her bathing suit case. Next to her are the two small sons of the Charles Welshes of Philadelphia. Josephine Nicoll, Io leaving the water with a friend, and Katherine Steele display two types of bathing costumes that are charming. Harper’s Bazar

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EDITOR’sS NoTE.—This club is America’s sporting center. The annual Horse Show and spring and fall race meetings are held here on the beautiful lawns below the terrace. On its perfect polo grounds the English challengers practiced for the International Polo Tourna- ment. The club house was designed by Guy Lowell of Boston, but the wonderful grounds were developed gradually to meet ' the. necessities .of the outdoor sports fostered by the club. —— : i= Se a, eae ONG ISLAND is called New York’s playground. L The owners of the large estates are essentially out-of-door people, and until Piping Rock, with its more extensive grounds and its larger house was built to accommodate the rapidly grow- ing needs of this coterie of sportsmen, the little club at Meadow Brook was the only organization of this kind supported by society. Above is shown a group of the members of the club. In the extreme left-hand corner stands Mrs. John Sanford. Looking over her shoulder is Mrs. Harry For September, 1913 Photographs by International News Service and Brown Bros. WSSS> VevOraes Peters, whose father, William Storrs Wells, is also a member of the club. Standing just below with her two children, Florence and Barbara, is Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, while in the group of three in the center of the page are Mrs. Philip Boyer in a quaint little checked costume, and Mrs. Courtlandt D. Barnes in a black charmeuse gown talking to Cornelia Bryce just home from Paris and wearing a fetching gown of white ratine with cubist decorations. In the lower corner is Mrs. Elsie French Vanderbilt whose charming rose costume is topped by a very much II Club pictures by Pictorial News. beribboned hat. With her is Mrs. William Goadby Loew, a prominent member of the Westbury colony. Seated on tke steps of the club at the upper corner are Mrs. Harold Phipps, Misses Gwendolyn Condon and Genevieve Sanford, all wearing the simple white linen costumes for which the Long Island women are noted. Standing at the left of Mrs. Phipps is Eleanor Mortimer of Tuxedo carrying a yellow polo coat, while at the extreme right stands Leonie Burrill, whose cubist coat of many colours made her a noticeable figure on the grounds. ———-4

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Photograph-copyright by The International News Service. Eton vs. Harrow at Lord’s: The immaculate young dandy of twelve entertains his relatives on the day of the great annual cricket match The GILDED YOUTH SO LONDON * ” EDITOR’S NOTE: an utterly useless product of civilization. HE gilded youth of London is much of a superstition; he is simply a devotee of everything that is agree- able in the extravagant idleness of adolescence. He stands, in fact, for a great many things which he is not. The very title by which his kind is known is a relic of a more flamboyant age, when, in waistcoats of an incredible pattern, he and his friends strolled arm in arm along Piccadilly and Pall Mall. Now his raiment and his ways are unobtrusively expensive. He belongs to no particular class except the class which has money or position. If he is now well born, he must have money and connection with the world in which everyone knows everyone else’s name; if he is not rich he must be so much of that world that he is made a _ partaker in its doings without money and _ without price. : In one respect times are not quite so good now for the gilded youth as they used to be; there is a general feeling that he ought to work—not for the good of his country so much as to make money. And the truly gilded youth, although he is becoming a somewhat rare bird in London, not only does nothing, but pretends to do noth- ing except amuse himself. The Brigade of Guards, which is one of the few professions which he condescends to grace, is a somewhat more strenuous affair than it used to be, and forces the gilded youth to take his amusements is sobe By Filson Young “Gilded Youth,” a term applied to the elegant idler of the Early Victorian tiod, suggests to the American reader That a regeneration of English Society is going on is admirably told in this authoritative article in a somewhat undignified rush. If he belongs to the Foreign Office, that also requires his attention for at least a part of every day; and in the other Government services there is not unfrequently a positive insistence upon actual work, which is at all times derogatory to the dignity and peace of the gilded youth. In such respects as these he has fallen upon evil days; but on the other hand the business of amusing oneself was never so well organized as it is in London today, and the gilded youth who is free has many opportunities for agree- able diversions which his predecessor of half a century ago would never _ have dreamed of. They are so many, in fact, that the gilded youth who is to be truly gilded must devote all his time to them. There are always a cer- tain number of young men of good family and ample means who do not make haste to lay the yoke on their shoulders, and who for a year or two after they have left Oxford or Sandhurst, and before going into the city, or becoming someone’s private secretary, or joining a regiment, have time and opportunity to taste those joys which are laid up in London for the rich unemployed. This interval used to be, in what I think were wiser days, employed in making the grand tour, or in spending a year with a tutor in foreign cities; but the upper class in England no longer regards this kind of cultivation as in the least necessary. London 12 and independence are what the gilded youth wants when he becomes his own master, and what he wants is generally what he gets. There are three or four clubs in London which are the special headquarters of the gilded youth; generally he belongs to them all; sips his dry ginger ale before lunch in one, his afternoon tea in another, his evening glass of barley water at a third. For the gilded youth is on the whole an abstemious person. One often hears a good deal, from people who don’t know, about the decline of drinking among the upper classes in England. I should think that the consumption of champagne has never been anything like so high in London as it is to day; and although drunkenness is regarded as the worst possible form, the social world manages to consume a considerable quantity of alcohol in the course of the twenty-four hours. But it is the people between thirty and fifty who are the heavy consumers; after fifty health becomes the pre- occupation, before thirty nerves and health are as a rule sound enough to enable a youth to get through a day of arduous amusement without artificial st‘mulant. At any rate, whatever the reason, the gilded youth does not drink. He has learned from American sources to take an occasional cock- tail, but even that cannot be described as a habit of his; he takes it chiefly because it is (Continued on page 43) Harper’s Bazar

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hy Ss ‘Borrowed Scenes EpiTor’s NoTe.—“It cannot be done. Peo- ple will not stand it; I know because I have tried.” (Extract from an unpublished paper upon George Borrow and his writings.) Conan Doyle writes in a new vein—the author of Sherlock Holmes here takes us adventuring on English highways with a young man who has read his Borrow not wisely but too well. Those who have read “Lavengro,” and the “Romany Rye” will delight in this riotous burlesque. Those who have not will want to read them at once. ES, I tried and my experi- ence may interest other people. You must imag- ine then that I am soaked in George Borrow, especially in his “‘ Lavengro” and his ‘‘ Romany Rye;”’ that I have modeled both my thoughts, my speech, and my style very carefully upon those of the master, and that finally I set forth one summer day to actually lead the life of which I had read. Behold me then upon the country road which leads from the railway station to the Sussex village of Swine- hurst. ‘As I walked I entertained myself by recollections of the founders of Sussex, of Cerdic, that mighty sea rover, and of Ella his son, said by the bard to be taller by the length of a spearhead than the tallest of his fellows. I mentioned the matter twice to peasants whom I met upon the road. One, a tallish man with a freckled face, sidled past me and ran swiftly towards the station. The other, a smaller and older man, stood entranced while I recited to him that passage of the Saxon Chronicle which begins ‘‘ Then came Leija with longships forty-four, and the fyrd went out against him.” I was pointing out to him that the Chronicle had been written partly by the monks of Saint Albans and afterwards by those of Peter- borough, but the fellow sprang suddenly over a gate and disappeared. The village of Swinehurst is a straggling line of half timbered houses of the early English pattern. One of these houses stood, as I observed, somewhat taller than the rest, and seeing by its appearance and by the sign which hung before it that it was the village Inn I approached it, for indeed I had not broken my fast since I had left London. A stoutish man, five foot eight perhaps in height, with black coat and trousers of a greyish shade, stood outside, and to him I talked in the fashion of the master. “Why a rose and why a crown?” I asked as I pointed upwards. He looked at me in a strange manner. man’s whole appearance was strange. “Why not?” he answered, and shrank a little backwards. “The sign of a King,” said I. “Surely,” said he. ‘What else should we understand from a crown?” “And which King?” I asked. “You willexcuse me,” said he, and tried to pass. *Copyright 1913 by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. For September, 1913 The Na Photograph by Brown Bros. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle “Which King?” I repeated. “How should I know?” he asked. “You should know by the rose,’ said I, “which is the symbol of that Tudor-ap-Tudor who, coming from the mountains of Wales, yet seated his posterity upon the English throne. Tudor,” I continued, getting between the stranger and the door of the Inn, through which he appeared to be desirous of passing, “‘was of the same blood as Owen Glendower, the famous Chieftain who is by no means to be confused with Owen Gwynedd the father of Madoc of the Sea of whom the bard made the famous cnglyn which runs in the Welsh as follows—”’ I was about to repeat the famous stanza of Dafydd ap Gwilyn when the man, who had looked very fixedly and strangely at me as I spoke, pushed past me and entered the Inn. “Truly,” said I aloud, “it is surely Swine- hurst to which I have come, since the same means the grove of the hogs.” So saying I followed the fellow into the bar parlour where I perceived him seated in a corner with a large chair in front of him. Four persons of various degrees were drinking beer at a central table, whilst a small man of active build in a black shiny suit which seemed to have seen much service stood before the empty fireplace. Him I took to be the landlord, and I asked him what I should have for my dinner. He smiled and said that he could not tell. “But surely, my friend,” said I, ““you can tell me what is ready.” “Even that I cannot do,’ he answered, “but I doubt not that the landlord can inform us.” On this he rang the bell, and a fellow answered to whom I put the same question. ““What would you have?”’ he asked. I thought of the master and I ordered a 13 or n DowWe cold leg of pork to be washed down with tea and beer. “Did you say tea and beer?” asked the landlord. “I did.” “For twenty-five years have I been in business,” said the landlord, “‘and never before have I been asked for tea and beer.” “The gentleman is joking,” said the man with the shining coat. “Or else—”’ said the elderly man in the corner. “Or what, sir?”’ I asked. “Nothing,” said he. ‘“‘Noth- ing.”’ There was something very strange in this man in the corner —him to whom I had spoken of David-ap-Gwilyn. “Then you are joking,” said the landlord. I asked him if he had read the works of my master, George Borrow. He said that he had not. I told him that in those five volumes he would not from cover to cover find one trace of any sort of a joke. He would also find that my master drank tea and beer together. Now it happens that about tea I have read nothing either in the Sagas or in the bardic cynlynions, but, whilst the landlord had departed to prepare my meal I recited to the company these Icelandic stanzas which praise the beer of Gunnar, the long-haired son of Harold the bear. Then, lest the language should be unknown to some of them, I recited ‘my own translation ending with the line: “If the beer be small then let the mug be large.’ I then asked the Company whether they went to church or to chapel. The ques- tion surprised them, and especially the strange man in the corner upon whom I now fixed my eye. I had read his secret and as I looked at him he tried to shrink behind the clock case. “The church or the chapel?” I asked him. “The church,” he gasped. “Which church?’’ I asked. He shrank further behind the clock. “‘T have never been so questioned,” he cried. I showed him that I knew his secret. “Rome was not built in a day,” said I. “He! He!” he cried. Then as I turned away he put his head from behind the clock- case and tapped his forehead with his fore- finger. So also did the man with the shiny coat who stood before the empty fire-place. Having eaten the cold leg of pork—where is there a better dish, save only boiled mutton with capers?—and having drunk both the tea and the beer, I told the company that such a meal had been called “to box Harry” by the master, who had observed it to be in great favour with commercial gentlemen out of Liverpool. With this information and a stanza or two from Lopez de Vega I left the Inn of the Rose and Crown behind me, having first paid my reckoning. At the door the landlord asked me for my name and address. “And why?” I asked. “Lest there should be inquiry for you,” said the landlord. “But why should they inquire for me?” “ Ah, who knows?” said the landlord, musing. And so I left him at the door of the Inn of

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the Rose and Crown, whence came, I ob- served, a great tumult of laughter. “As- suredly,” thought I, ‘Rome was not built in a day.” Having walked down the main street of Swinehurst which, as I observed, consists of half timbered buildings in the ancient style, I came out upon the country road and proceeded to look for those wayside adventures which are according to the master as thick as black- berries for those who seek them upon the English highway. I had already received some boxing lessons before leaving London, so it seemed to me that if I should chance to meet some traveller whose size and age seemed such as to encourage the venture I would ask him to strip off his coat and settle any differences which we could find in the old English fashion. I waited therefore by a stile for anyone who should chance to pass, and it was while I stood there that the screaming horror came upon me, even as it came upon him in the dingle. I gripped the bar of the stile, which was of good British oak. Oh who can tell the terrors of the screaming horror! That was what I thought as I grasped the oaken bar of the stile. Was it the beer—or was it the tea? Or was it that the landlord was right and that other, the man with the black shiny coat, he who had answered the sign of the strange man in the corner? But the master drank tea with beer. Yes, but the master also had the screaming horror. All this I thought as I grasped the bar of British oak which was the top of the stile. For half an hour the horror was upon me. Then it passed and I was left feeling very weak and still grasping the oaken bar. I Meet a Gipsy Maid I had not moved from the stile where I had been seized by the screaming horror when I heard the sound of steps behind me and turning round I perceived that a pathway led across the field upon the further side of the stile. A woman was coming towards me along this pathway and it was evident to me that she was one of those gipsy Rias of whom the master has said so much. Looking beyond her I could see the smoke of a fire from a small dingle which showed where her tribe were camping. The woman herself was of a moder- ate height, neither tall nor short, with a face which was much sunburned and freckled. I must confess that she was not beautiful, but I do not think that anyone save the master has found very beautiful women walking about upon the highroads of England. Such as she was I must make the best of her and well I knew how to address her, for many times had I admired the mixture of politeness and au- dacity which should be used in such a case. Therefore when the woman had come to the stile I held out my hand and helped her over. “What says the Spanish poet Calderon?” said I. “I doubt not that you have read the couplet which has been thus Eng- lished— “Oh maiden may I humbly pray That I may help you on your way.” The woman blushed but said nothing. “Where,” I asked, “‘are the Romany chals and the Romany chis?”’ She turned her head away and was silent. “Though I am a gorgio,” said I, “I know something of the Romany lil,” and to prove it I sang the stanza— “Coliko Coliko saulo wer Apopli to the farming ker Wil wel and manghim mullo Wil wel and mang hio truppo.” The girl laughed but said nothing. It appeared to me from her appearance that she might be one of those who make a living at telling fortunes or ‘‘dukkering,”’ as the master calls it, at race-courses and other gatherings of the sort. “Do you dukker?” I asked. She slapped me on the arm. ? “Well, you are a pot of ginger!” said she. She Gives Me a Slap I was pleased at the slap for it put me in mind of the peerless Belle. “You can use Long Melford,” said I, an expression which with the master meant fighting. “Get along with your sauce!” said she, and struck me again. “You are a very fine young woman,”’ said I, ‘and remind me of Grunelda the daughter of Hjalmar who stole the golden bowl from the King of the Islands.” She seemed annoyed at this. “You keep a civil tongue, young man,” said she. “T meant no harm, Belle. I was but com- paring you to one of whom the Saga says her eyes were like the shine of sun upon icebergs.” This seemed to please her, for she smiled. “My name ain’t Belle,” she said at last. “What is your name?” “Henrietta.” “The name of a queen,” I said aloud. “Go on,” said the girl. “Of Charles’ queen,” said I, “of whom Waller the poet (for the English also have their poets though in this respect far inferior to the Basques) —of whom, I say, Waller the poet said: “““That she was Queen was the Creator’s act; Belated man could but endorse the fact!’”’ Enter the Baker cried the girl. ‘“‘How you do go “ ~p? ae say! “So now,” said I, “since I have shown you that you are a queen you will surely give me a choomer.” “T’ll_ give you one on the ear-hole,” she cried. “Then I will wrestle with you,” said I. “Tf you should chance to put me down I will do penance by teaching you the Arminian alphabet—the very word alphabet, as you will perceive, shows us that our letters came from Greece. If on the other hand I should chance to put you down you will give me a choomer.”’ I had got so far, and she was climbing the stile with some pretence of getting away from me when there came a van along the road, belonging, as I discovered, to a baker in Swinehurst. The horse, which was of a brown colour, was such as is bred in the New Forest, being somewhat under fifteen hands and of a hairy, ill-kempt variety. As I know less than the master about horses I will say no more of this horse save to repeat that its colour was brown—nor indeed had the horse or the horse’s colour anything to do with my narrative. I might add, however, that it could either be taken as a small horse or as a large pony, being somewhat tall for the one but undersized for the other. I have now said enough about this horse which has nothing to do with my story, and I will turn my attention to the driver. I Ask Him to Fight This was a man with a broad florid face and brown side whiskers. He was of a stout build and had rounded shoulders, with a small mole of a reddish colour over his left eyebrow. His jacket was of velveteen and he had large iron- shod boots which were perched upon the splash- board in front of him. He pulled up the van as he came up to the stile near which I was standing with the maiden who had come from the dingle, and in a civil fashion he asked me if I could oblige him with a light for his pipe. Then as I drew a matchbox from my pocket he threw his reins over the splashboard, and re- moving his large iron-shod boots, he descended to the road. He was a burly man but inclined to fat and scant of breath. It seemed to me that it was a chance for one of those wayside boxing adventures which were so common in the olden times. It was my intention that I should fight the man, and that the maiden from the dingle standing by me should tell me when to use my right or my left, as the case might be, picking me up also in case I should be so unfortunate as to be knocked down by the man with the iron-shod boots and the small mole of a reddish colour over his left eyebrow. 14 “Do you use Long Melford?” I asked. He looked at me in some surprise and said that any mixture was good enough for him. “By Long Melford,” said I, “‘I do not mean, as you seem to think, some form of tobacco, but I mean that art and science of boxing which was held in such high esteem by our ancestors that some famous Professors of it, such as the great Gully, have been elected to the highest offices of the state. There were men of the highest character amongst the bruisers of England, of whom I would particu- larly mention Tom of Hereford, better known as Tom Spring, though his father’s name, as I have been given to understand, was Winter. This, however, has nothing to do with the matter in hand which is that you must fight me.” And Give Him a Sovereign The man with the florid face seemed very much surprised at my words, so that I cannot think that adventures of this sort were as com- mon as I had been led by the master to expect. “Fight!” said he. ‘“‘What about?” “It is a good old English custom,” said I, “by which we may determine which is the better man.” “T’ve nothing against you,” said he. “Nor I against you,” I answered. ‘So that we will fight for love, which was an expression much used in olden days. It is narrated by Harold Sygvynson that among the Danes it was usual to do so even with battle- axes, as is told in his second set of runes. Therefore you will take off your coat and fight.”” As I spoke I stripped off my own. The man’s face was less florid than before. “T’m not going to fight,” said he. “Indeed you are,” I answered, “and this young woman will doubtless do you the service to hold your coat.” “You’re clean balmy,” said Henrietta. “Besides,” said I, “if you will not fight me for love perhaps you will fight me for this,” and I held out a sovereign. ‘Will you hold his coat?” I said to Henrietta. “T’'ll hold the thick ’un,’’ said she. “No, you don’t,” said the man and put the sovereign into the pocket of his trousers which were of a corduroy material. ‘‘ Now,” said he, “‘what am I to do to earn this?” “Fight,” said I. “How do you do it?”’ he asked. “Put up your hands,” I answered. And Get a Kick in Return He put them up as I had said and stood there in a sheepish manner with no idea of anything further. It seemed to me that if I could make him angry he would do better, so I knocked off his hat which was black and hard of the kind which is called billy-cock. “Heh, Guv’nor!” he cried. you up to?” “That was to make you angry,” said I. “Well, I am angry,” said he. “Then here is your hat,” said I; ‘and after- wards we shall fight.” I turned as I spoke to pick up his hat which had rolled behind where I was standing. As I stooped to reach it I received such a blow that I could neither rise erect nor yet sit down. This blow which I received as I stooped for his billy-cock hat was not from his fist but from his iron-shod boot, the same which I had observed upon the splashboard. Being unable either to rise erect nor yet to sit down I leaned upon the oaken bar of the stile and groaned loudly on account of the pain of the blow which I had received. Even the screaming horror had given me less pain than this blow from the iron-shod boot. When at last I was able to stand erect I found that the florid-faced man had driven away with his cart, which could no longer be seen. The maiden from the dingle was standing at the other side of the stile, and a ragged man was running across the field from the direction of the fire. “Why did you not warn me, Henrietta?” I asked. “T hadn’t time,” said she. ‘Why were you such a chump as to turn your back on him like that?” (Continued on page 42) Harper’s Bazar “What are

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For September, 1913 EpiTor’s NoTe.—A weatherbeaten old wind- mill transformed into a combination workshop and playhouse; and Mi * Claflin has done almost all y the work herself Photographs from Campbell Studio + psnntieplint Us ae : sett HEN Miss Beatrice Claflin wishes to en- tertain her friends informally she bids them drop in and drink tea in her old mill. Scattered throughout the southeastern end of Long Island are many of these Dutch relics of the early settlers of this locality. The longarms nolonger revolve, but the mills themselves are picturesque, and Miss Claflin, granddaughter of H. B. Claflin and ‘the only daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur B. Claflin of Southampton, eagerly seized the opportunity to develop the possibilities of the one on her father’s estate in the heart of the Shinne- cock Hills. The approach has been left as it was when the mill was built, more than acentury ago. There are old-fashioned posies and shrubs hereabouts, but nothing formal. The main room, with its big fireplace and odd shape, is satisfy- - 15 ing indegd.to the lover of an- tiques “‘with a history.” The furniture, ‘ncluding the Chippendale chairs, was picked up in the neighbor- hood, the result of many still hunts by Miss Claflin. In the upper part of the mill is a perfectly equipped work- shop where Miss Claflin carves and polishes and sand- papers and upholsters to her heart’s content. Every bit of furniture in the mill bears her handiwork. The heavy wrought-iron candlesticks hanging on the beamed walls were made from bits of iron found on the shores or among the Dunes. As in the old days all is x vy bie e Ne - ae grist that comes to the mill, Indian rugs, horseshoes, old furniture. So enthralled with her mill is Miss Claflin that she cares very little for the gayerside of Southampton life. Southampton is one of the gayest and jolliest of summer places, entertaining is generally informal and delightful. Miss Claflin’s tea parties are therefore characteristic of the colony and of herself.

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The Last Word in Fashions EDITOR’S NOTE.—Lady Duff-Gordon lets her readers into some of fashion’s secrets. She tells of the wonderful new fox skins dyed to match the costumes—an idea she suggested to the furrier. This is only one of her secrets, Lady Duff-Gordon as Lucile knows many more. Her letters give the readers a rare opportunity to gain advance information. ‘ 7 Pe A Versailles, August, 1913. DEAR Mr. Epiror, AM going to keep my promise made to you last month and let you into some of fashion’s secrets for the early autumn. It gives me almost a shudder to talk of furs while summer is still gracious enough to linger with us, and it is deliciously warm. How- ever, I must not speak lightly or disrespect fully of furs, even at this warm moment, as we are glad enough to seek their embracing warmth the very instant our capricious climate for- gets itself in the middle of summer, and pours large hailstones on us instead of a dewy rain. and blows icy winds from the east, as it has done here many times this summer. You, in America, probably never are glad to wrap yourselves in a fur coat on a July day. We are—often. I believe our grandmothers had a certain date in April when all the furs of the family were safely laid away in cam- phor to guard them from a hungry summer moth, that was supposed to do untold damage. Either people brave the moth, or it has “gone out of fashion” to-day, or the weather has changed, or something, as one sees the most costly furs worn on cold days all through the summer here. All these words are leading up to my (Continued on page 44) 16 A.—Traveling coat of mouse- coloured ratine lined with cinna- mon and white satin and trimmed with touches of lemon, green, and black satin. B.—The colour scheme of the dull blue brocade three piece suit is continued in the soft blue fur. C.—A Tango frock of blue net embroidered in diamonds and tur- quoise over flesh pink. The Pierrot tunic and bodice are of Nile green tulle. D.—The lemon-yellow charmeuse coat with trimmings of red fox forms an effective colour com- bination with the black and white striped skirt. The white satin hat has a yellow tulle ornament. E.—A multitude of tulle frills, shading from bright green to a soft Nile green tint, lend much charm to this dancing frock dull blue charmeuse. Harper’s Bazar

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Drawing by Sarah Stilwell Weber Ss ec By Frances Aymar Mathews EpITor’s NOTE. -- Is “sauce for the goose” also “sauce for the gander?” ‘That there is a vast difference this brilliantly clever little story will prove to your satisfaction. E was a man of forty, a man of intelli- gence and force, a little vain, but po sibly not too much so. He was a man of the South, his passions, ca- pacities and powers accentuated. He had been loved, in fact he had affairs, shall one say, of the heart? He had the eyes that seek. He had two characters. With one he amused himself, and mocked at the world. The other he reserved, consoling himself with the thought that some day the woman For September, 1913 might come to whom he could reveal what he considered his real self. The little convent girl had also the eyes that seek. Likewise two characters. With one she smiled upon all people, but with the other, what? She comprehended and enjoyed her own in- telligence, her mind, but her heart had not yet spoken. With the admiration of men she was in- variably charmed, and _ invited attention, though she had little or nothing to give in exchange. She had been alone that day, when— Some one knocked. “Come in.” 17 The man of forty entered. Each looked straight into the eyes of the other. He said: “If you will come down into the garden with me, where the roses are in bloom, I will show you paradise.” They went. “‘Really,”’ she whispered, “‘are you sure that we are in paradise—the Garden of Eden?” “Certainly.” She inclined her head: “If it is actually the Garden of Eden, where then is the Ser- pent?” ‘Already the voice of the Serpent is heard,” was his rejoinder. She laughed: her red lips soft and caressing as the rose she held. ‘You mock me. There is nothing to be heard but a woman’s voice!”’ (Continued on page 42)

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‘ fatty s/f §£ i 7 ; i’ & iw a ncaatl EpiTor’s NoTeE.—It is seldom that a young girl has a good chancc to look at herself “as others see” her, In this, the third of the series of ex- tremely frank letters to her god-daughter, Elinor Glyn tells facts which are unpleasant but at the same time worth pondering. Every girl who reads this letter will see how these criticisms apply to her friends. Some of them undoubtedly apply to herself—and if she thinks enough she may see which ones and profit by the knowledge. HAD meant, my dear Caroline, to write to you in this letter, upon the interesting subject of marriage, but before I can com- mence upon that I must speak of some- thing else, and you must promise me not to be offended at what I am going to say, since we both desire the same end—your success and welfare. The fact is, your picture, which you tell me was drawn by a friend, has just reached me. You say it is more like you than the only photograph I possess of you, taken when you were fifteen; and it is because of your assuring me of this that I cannot remain silent,—for, Caroline child, I must confess it shocks and dis- concerts me, and makes me feel that I must be very frank with you if you are ever going to be able to attain that position which we both hope that you may. Even if the drawing was perhaps done some months ago, and you have altered your style of hair dressing since then—still, that you were ever able to have looked like that—you, in Paris!—proves that your observation and taste are not yet sufficiently cultivated to make you anything of a success when you come out in May. Thus I must speak plainly and at once. Now, let us pretend that the little girl I see before me is not you at all, but some abstract person; and let us dissect her bit by bit: .her type, her style, her suitability—or want of it— her attitude and the general effect she produces. And then let me suggest the remedies and al- terations which can improve her. Sausage Curls and Shop Girls Firstly, her type, Caroline child, is not dis- tinguished. She has a large-eyed, dear little profile, which may be very pretty as a full face and which, framed in appropriately done hair, could succeed in being picturesque, but in itself, with its little snub features, is insignificant. She has rather a big head and thick, bushy dark hair—which I grieve to observe she has done in a large bun of sausage curls!—a fashion which was never in vogue really among ladies, and for over two or three years has been relegated to the heads of ‘“‘roof-garden’”’ waitresses and third-class shop assistants. And to further provoke my ire, although this girl in the pic- ture is drawn in an ordinary morning skirt and boots, she wears a light-coloured ribbon in her hair! Caroline dearest, where could her eyes and observation and sense of the fitness of things have been?—with the example of the exquisite Parisians in front of her!—to be able to perpetrate these incongruities! But there is more tocome! Her skirt is a rough, useful serge skirt, and her boots, although the heels are too high, are not a bad shape; but with this she has put on a cheap, impossible blouse,—with short sleeves. A shirt should be a workmanlike thing, as neat as a man’s, with long sleeves finished by real shirt-cuffs with links. If you want trimmed-up things, have a regular blouse, and then wear it with an afternoon costume. Short- sleeved blouses should only be indulged in in the summer, and when they are made of the finest material. Now that I have torn her garments and hair- dressing to pieces, Caroline!—I must scold about her attitude. She is doing two of the most ungraceful things: putting her arm akim- bo and crossing her legs! You may say every girl does them—which may be true, but that is no proof that they are pretty or desirable habits! Do Not Cross Your Legs To digress a moment—I went to a party the other night, a musical party where the guests were obliged to sit around the room quietly; and I counted no less than thirteen of the younger women with their legs crossed, which in some cases, on account of these very narrow skirts we are all wearing, caused the sights to be perfectly grotesque. But now to return to the girl in the picture! We have dissected the details and got to her style, and the effect she produces. Her style. I must frankly say, is common, Caroline, and the effect she produces is unprepossessing, be- cause it is incongruous; and incongruity in all simple morning utility clothes is only another word for bad taste. American Girls Excel There are only these general rules always to be observed: for the morning or the street, the most distinguished-looking woman or girl is she who is garbed the most simply and the most neatly, with tidy hair and every garment plainly showing its purpose and meaning. It is in this that the Americans you can see any morning walking on Fifth Avenue, excel. But, alas! English maidens nearly always spoil the picture by some unnecessary auxiliary touch or other. Now, Caroline, be just and, looking at the drawing withan unprejudiced eye, you willadmit that what I have said, though severe, is true. With a type like yours, you cannot be too particular to be on the side of refinement and good taste, and my first advice is—Brush all that thick bush of hair so that it shines, then part it and take the sides rather further back, so that they do not touch your eyebrows (I like the tiny curl by the ear which has escaped leave that!); then twist all those dreadful sausages into the simplest twist, so as to make your head as small as possible—which, apart from being the present fashion, is a pretty bal- ance. Never wear a light ribbon in the daytime, although it often looks very becoming at night. In choosing an article of dress, you must remember the vital matter of its suitability; suitability generally, suitability for the occa- sion you mean to wear it on, its suitability to yourself, and your type. If you cultivate these points and use your eyes and observation to see what is the prettiest note in passing fashion, you can counteract the rather commonplace, though pretty, appearance Nature has endowed you with, and turnit into a quaint, picturesque little individuality. Cheap Things Are Undesirable Never buy things that you donot actually want just because they are cheap. Cheap things nearly always have disadvantages, or they would not becheap. Have few clothes and good ones. You have probably never thought of these things and have just drifted on with other school-girls until you present the mass of in- congruities your friend depicted in the drawing of you. And now we can begin about marriage. But, as the post is going, I shall not be able to say all I want 6 in this letter. Marriage is the aim and end of all sensible girls, because it is the meaning of life. No single existence can be complete, however full 18 of interests it may be. It is unfinished and its pleasures at best are but pis-allers. You agree with me on this point, so we need not argue. But marriage is for life, unless it is broken by divorce, which, no matter how the law may be simplified and altered, must always remain as a stain upon a woman and a thing to be faced only in the last extremity. It is, therefore, a very serious step and not to be taken lightly. The rushing into unions without sufficient thought is the main cause of much of the modern unhappiness. How can you expect to spend peaceful, blissful years with a man whom you have taken casually just because you liked chaffing with him and dancing with him, or playing golf? Think of the hours you must spend with him when these things will be impossible. So, when you feel yourself becoming attracted by a young man, pull yourself together in time and ask yourself, if the affair goes on, whether you would really like him for a husband? Think what it would be to be with him always, at the interminable meals for years and years, through all the tedious duties which must come. You must remember that like draws like with more or less intensity according to the force of characters. I know you are highly educated, Caroline, and if you do not let your- self become priggish you should attract a man of quality. Then let us suppose you have done so, and marry him. You are then con- tracting a bargain, and you have to fulfill your half. You must start by understanding that the natures of men and women are totally dif- ferent. Men Are Selfish Darlings Men are infinitely more simple and _ the British education helps them by its drum- ming into their heads the knowledge of what is or is not “cricket.” They are (in England) fundamentally and unconsciously selfish, be- cause for generations women have been taught to give way to them. You must accept this fact and not storm and rage against it. The only way you can change it in regard to your own personal male belonging is by inspiring in him intense devotion to yourself, but it is wiser to face it and make the best of it, and not be disillusioned. You are probably selfish also: it is one of the greatest signs of the age, the growing selfishness of women. It will take much longer than your lifetime (and I personally hope, in spite of the wrath I shall excite in stating this, much longer than many life-times) to change the nature of Eng- lishmen. So do not let us bother over these abstract points, but accept men as they are, dear, attractive, selfish darlings! with generous hearts and a quite remarkable faculty for play- ing fair in any game. So you must play fair also, and try to understand the rules and follow them. How to Keep a Husband If the husband you select has a stronger character than you have, and if he is also ex- tremely desirable to other women, the only way you will be able to keep him through all the years to come will be by being invariably sweet, loving, and gentle to him so that no matter what tempers and caprices he experi- ences in his encounters with the many others of your sex who will fling themselves at his head, he will never have a memory but of love and peace at home. Never mind what he does, if you really love him and want to keep him, this is the only method to use. Your affectionate Godmother, E. G. Harper’s Bazar

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EpITOR’S NOTE.—Moore than {or her beauty Gaby is noted on two continents for her gowns. Her figure is a delight to the couturiere, and Madame Paquin has never displayed her sar- torial genius to better advantage than in these new costumes with which the dancer is charm- ing her Parisian audiences. HE acme of lux- ury is attained in this Russian sable cloak and black lace hat orna- mented with an extrav- agantly high pompon of black aigrettes. Her fascinating char- meuse cloak is simplicity Photographs by Talbot, Paris itself, but it is delightfully graceful, suggesting rather than revealing the figure. The draped silk turban with the very tall feather fantasy is a novel headgear. The beauty of drapery is cleverly demon- strated in a dinner gown. Over a charmeuse foundation is hung a tunic of rare filet lace, softened with drapings of chiffon which par- tially veil a flounce of metallic brocade edged with fur. A cluster of shaded flowers lends color to the transparent corsage. The pink flesh glimmering through the silver lace tunic makes this black satin dinner frock very alluring. Quite as unusual are the aureole- like trimming of tulle and the tall black and white unshaved feather fantasy on the hat. Madame Paquin has retained the girlish simplicity that makes the white chiffon frock so irresistible, and kas added distinctive touches in the cut of the blouse and the drap- ing of the skirt. For September, 1913

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Drawing by Walter D, Goldbeck A Game of Tag By Elizabeth Jordan EpITOR’S NoTE:—The moral of this story is that it doesn’t pay to be in too much of a hurry. Billy Bailey was, and so he spent much time, that might have been better employed, in a blind game of tag which finally led him to a finish—where? If he had asked a few more questions—would there have been this very amusing story? HEY had parted forever. That fact, the one certainty in a most uncertain world, filled ‘‘ Billy’’ Bailey’s conscious- ness. To him, at twenty-three, both life and love had lost their glamour—that is, if she had really thrown him over. All that lay before him now was work, and work, someway, had never especially appealed to him, probably because he had never given it a fair chance. Even at this moment, when it offered its bony breast as a refuge from his misery, he regarded it without enthusiasm. There was no hurry about going to work. First, he would see Edith again, make one last appeal, grovel if she wished—and perhaps she would give him another chance. His black depression lifted a little as he made the decision, and he crossed the room to his desk with a swing and vigour in his move- ments which they had wholly lacked during the past week. He even whistled softly as he selected a pen and began his note, begging for an interview. It was short, but every word was a tribute to the glory of Edith, and an admission of the utter insignificance of everything in himself, save his great love for her. He sealed the letter, called a messenger boy, and sent it to her at once. Then, with Hope once more at his elbow, he went down to the hotel dining- room and ate a highly satisfactory luncheon. His sense of well-being, however, was rudely jarred by the phenomenally prompt return of the messenger, who, having been earnestly charged to hurry and to bring back the answer, had done his best according to his opportunities. He was back, but he was still conspicuously grasping Billy’s note, which bore evidences of having passed through several hands. “‘Nothin’ doin’,”” he announced, defensively. Stunned, young Bailey regarded the letter, then addressed him as man to man. “She didn’t send it back?’’ he stammered. “Naw. She wasn’t there. She’s gone to Europe.” ““Gone to Europe!” For an instant Billy could not take it in. He had imagined everything but this. “How do you know?” he added, quickly. “Who told you so?” “House all boarded up. Saw the care- taker. And, say, you said you’d gimme a dollar if I hustled.” He and Edith had hosts of friends in common. Undoubtedly they had been restrained from telling him of her departure by what they considered the most delicate tact. Quietly but fervently, he confided his opinion of them and their tact to the unresponsive walls of his room. Then hurrying to the telephone, he called up one of them, and, fortunately, found her at home. Breathlessly, he poured forth his story, and, as she listened, the heart of Mrs. Mayhew scftened. “T’m so sorry, Billy,” she said. ‘I supposed, of course, you knew. Edith and her mother sailed for Trieste yesterday. No, I don’t know how long they’ll be gone. They didn’t say. It 20 was all arranged so hastily that I fancy they didn’t make any definite plans be- yond just going over. But they’re going straight from Trieste to Vienna, and I heard Edith say something about Hungary and Rou- mania and Greece.” Billy listened in sick dis- may. This was worse than he had expected, for in the days before the engagement, Edith and her mother had thought nothing of re- maining in Europe a year at a time. “Does anyone else know any more about it than you do?” he bluntly asked Mrs. Mayhew. She was sure no one else did. “Why don’t you foolish children kiss and make up?” she asked, kindly. “I thought Edith looked wretchedly unhappy the other night.” “Oh, did she?” Billy grinned widely over these sad tidings. Edith jubilantly sailing toward the Adriatic was a picture he could not have contemplated. But Edith hastening to the world’s end to deaden the dull ache of a broken heart was a wholly reassuring vision. At the same time he did not intend to let her suffer a moment longer than was necessary. He was a singularly energetic young person, and, once resolved to “get Edith back,” as he expressed it to himself, he lost no time in pur- suing that laudable purpose. He counted his ready money, cashed a check for more, and sailed for Europe the next morning. It seemed safe to assume that, taking the leisurely voyage of the southern route, they would be in Vienna in two weeks. “‘T’ll take the northern route and beat them to it,” Billy told himself elegantly. But he had failed to take into consideration the fickle nature of women. On the second day of his voyage, he received a wireless message from Mrs. Mayhew. “Just learned they decided to leave ship at Gibraltar and travel in Spain. First hotel Reina Christina, Algeciras.” Mr. Bailey read the message and then has- tened to a lonely spot on the upper deck, where, untrammeled by convention, he could express his feelings to the unsympathetic sea. The expedient of making the captain change the ship’s course at once occurred to him, but was dismissed as he remembered that other des- perate men had attempted this in vain. A wild desire to try to swim back he wrestled with and conquered. But these and similar mental , Harper’s Bazar

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struggles so preyed upon his mind that before he reached Cherbourg the entire ship’s com- pany were discussing the metamorphosis of a sunny-natured young man into an embittered being whom none cared to approach more than once. Taking into consideration the admitted uncertainties of travel by airships and automo- biles, young Bailey decided that the safest and quickest method was to travel by rail. As long as his journeying was confined to France, this theory was quite correct, but when he reached Spanish soil the difficulty of getting anywhere by any means seemed at times so insuperable that even the intrepid lover almost gave up hope. All trains, leaving for any point, seemed to start at some grey, myster- ious hour toward dawn. Like sluggish ser- pents, the engines crawled over the Spanish landscape, pausing whenever they reached a particularly bleak and desolate “junction” to let their passengers linger a few hours on the sun-baked platform of some primitive station. By night a wonderful moon swam in the heavens, and the love songs of night- ingales came pregnantly from olive trees, for it was still spring, though it began to seem to the unhappy young man that he had been travelling for months. But at last he reached Gibraltar, and with a leaping heart embarked in the little packet boat that plies between “the Rock” and Algeciras. The dignified young English woman in the office of the Reina Christina was pained by the abruptness of his manner. “Here,” cried the young man, irritably. “Their names wouldn’t be registered last month. Look at this week’s entries. They must have arrived two or three days ago.”’ Thus guided, the slow fingers of the clerk moved toward the more recent registrations. “It mightn’t be Mrs. Henry White, of Albany?” she suggested. She had been there four days ago. No? “Might this be the lady?” she then asked, timidly. It might be, and indeedit was. With difficulty the young person recalled her. According to the records (and this required another search), Mrs. White and Miss White had remained only until morning. The clerk’s manner was becoming weary. She had not the remotest idea where they had gone next; and now there was a distinct edge to her voice. The porter who attended to the luggage of his friends might remember to what destina- tion he had booked it. She summoned that excellent and intelligent employe, explained the For September, 1913 # . é &. ; i i i eet! Bn. a > 2 mee TOT isey met. gentleman’s wishes, and the whole situation cleared almost miraculously. The porter’s memory, stimulated into hectic activity by the gift of five pesos, recalled facts in almost embarrassing detail. He had attended to everything for the ladies, and had booked their luggage through to Seville. It was only nine hours to Seville; one ought to reach there inside of two days. They were probably just arriving. Following them, the gentleman could leave on the earliest boat in the morning— there was, alas, no other boat to-night. And yes, sir; thank you again, sir, Billy should be awakened at dawn and presumably—so great was the porter’s zeal—carried on board. Mr. Bailey retired gloomily to his room. It opened on the famous garden, and there was a balcony outside of one window, on which, until midnight, he lounged and smoked. To be here with Edith would have been a joy he hardly dared to picture to himself. To be here without her was an irony which turned the incredible beauty of the night and the place into mockery. Yet it bore its reassuring message, and insensibly he felt calmed and soothed by it. Surely, somehow, in a world as wonderful as this, things must come out right. He reached Seville two days later, and went at once to the principal hotel, at which he expected to find Mrs. White and Edith. They were not there, but awaiting him, having trav- elled with something approaching speed via Spain’s ‘‘fast mail,’ was a letter forwarded by the attentive porter at Algeciras. It was from his sister, and had been at the Reina Christina when he arrived, but the exacting duties he had put upon the young lady at the desk, he gathered, had driven it from her mind. With- out much eagerness, Billy opened the envelope, then, a sentence claiming his attention, re-read it with shining eyes. “The day after you sailed a letter came to your hotel addressed in Edith’s handwriting. The clerk re-mailed it to father, as you had left no other instructions. I’m not at all sure where you're gong to be, so I’m sending this note on a chance. But I don’t want to risk remailing Edith’s letter until I hear from you. It may be important. So T’ll hold it here.” A letter from Edith—that was news. Should he cable his sister to read itand cable the con- tents? No. It might be merely another “fare- well forever,”’ and Mollie, he remembered, had a confoundedly keen sense of humour. Besides, he’d see Edith herself in a day or two more, and she would tell him what was in the letter. 21 - But two days passed and he found no trace of the Whites in Seville. It seemed obvious that they had changed their plans and not come there at all. In his inquiries he was great- ly handicapped by his ignorance of Spanish and by the national Spanish ignorance of any other tongue. They might yet come, so he dared not leave. They might have gone straight on to Madrid, so he was afraid to remain. He waited, however, but on the edge of his nerves, whiling away his time by cabling inquiries to Mrs. Mayhew. At the end of his fifth day in Seville, he received a cable from her. It read: “Hear they abandoned Spanish tour, and sailed from Gibraltar to Naples on seventeenth.” Billy ground his teeth. The seventeenth! That was the day he had started from Algeciras for Seville. And even as he started Mrs. White and Edith had been just twenty minutes away from him, comfortably taking ship at Gibraltar. He went to Gibraltar in a des- perate frame of mind. He would take the next boat that sailed from there. If its desti- nation happened to be Naples, all right. He would go to Naples. If, on the other hand, it was sailing for New York, he would take it and gohome. He was sick of this wild goose chase. By a stroke of luck—the first he had experi- enced since he left America, he told himself bitterly—a steamer stopped at Gibraltar the day he arrived there. Within two hours he was sailing toward Naples. He knew Edith’s favourite haunts in Italy. She would stay in Naples a few days, he thought, at Berto- lini’s. Then she would surely go to Amalfi, stopping for a day or two, perhaps, at Sorrento. It seemed certain that in or near Naples he would catch up with her at last—and where could there be a more perfect spot to meet Edith again than on the Capuchin terrace at Amalfi? At Bertolini’s Billy was greeted with seeming rapture by the head clerk, who remembered his visit there the year before. But the face of this gentleman clouded with a deep sorrow when he had heard the young man’s eager questions. Was Mrs. James Frederick White in the hotel now, or had she been here? Alas, no. Slowly, heavily, Billy turned away. Then he went down to the steamship office and took passage on the first ship home. “Ought to have had sense enough to do that from Gibraltar,” he told himself. ‘‘There’s (Continued on page 45)

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Ns One Vomar CCO Snother Photographs by Inter- national News Service t left hand corner is Janet Fish with rs. Stuyvesant Fish. Behind them is In the u her aunt Sarah Nicholas Butler and her friend Jean Morris. Vincent Astor with his mother, Mrs. John Astor, are in the centre, and his sister Muriel is at the left. In front of Muriel Astor is Mrs. Arthur Scott Bur- den wearing her veil in the most Spe harem fashion. In the group at the right of the page Mrs. William Payne Thompson, Mrs. Amos Pinchot and her young daughter are inthe foreground. In the background at the left are Mrs. Andrew More- land, Mrs. Livingston Beeckman, Mrs. William Woodward (carrying a velvet-trimmed parasol), Hope Hamilton (with her lace veil thrown back from her face), Esther Moreland and Rose Dolan, one of the season’s debutantes. By Katrina Stuyvesant Epitor’s Note:- At Newport and Narragansett Pier, where the best-dressed women congregate, one sees the clothes and accessories that are worth observing. The Bazar’s correspondent there sees with the understanding eye and tells other women what to wear and how to wear it. no longer be able to tell by the clothes they wear whether it is a man or a woman we see? For a tiresome number of years, man has accused woman of taking unto herself any article of masculine attire that happened to please herfancy. This season man is revenging himself. He has possessed himself of the de- lightful white woolly polo coats originally made for women, and wrapped in their clinging folds is a sublimated vision indeed, all white from his feet up. At Bar Harbor, Narragansett Pier and Newport, these coats are now mascu- line rather than feminine. Suffern Tailer, Louis Bruguiere and Arthur Burden are among the Newport men who wear these coats every day and all day, from the Casino to the beach and then on to the Golf Club, leaving them off only in time to dress for dinner. Brilliant Colours Are in Favour The feminine sex, therefore, is going in rather avidly for colours, particularly in sport- ing coats. These coats are necessities for the summer and autumn wardrobe and never have they been such things of beauty. The day of [ the day coming, I wonder, when we will 22 the ugly “great coat’ is gone. Rough shan- tung, in the brightest of colours, and the newer duvetyn are the smartest fabrics. They are warm but not heavy; neither do they look heavy. Mrs. John Nicholas Brown, one of the very modish young matrons in the Newport colony, frequently wears a three-quarter length coat of rose-colour shantung, made with broad, rounded lapels. When she carries this or wears it with one of her exquisite lingerie gowns the effect is most picturesque. In contrast to this is the stunning moss-greer duvetyn sport coat that Margaret Andrews wraps about her siender figure when she finishes her game of tennis at the Casino. It has raglan sleeves, and a belt placed at the hip-line. The coat itself is less than knee length. This new material, new at least in the realm of sport coats, will, I am sure, be very popular with the debutantes and their older sisters during the autumn. It resembles a heavy suede or leather, but has the softness and sup- pleness of velvet. Rose, green and white are the colours which will be the best liked, I predict. (Continued on page 47) Harper’s Bazar

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Bridget Frances Henrietta Guinness Daughter of Sir Richard Henry Williams Bulkeley, of Baron Hill Beaumaris, Caernarvonland, Wales, lineal descendant of Marchudd ap Cynan, who lived in 843 and who was a Progenitor of the Royal house of Tudor. aR ir | i F ‘ Photograph by Aime Dupont Mrs. Benjamin Guinness and her three children: Loel, her son; Meraud, her older girl; and Tanis, the “Baby” At present in Ireland, Mrs. Guinness will return in September to her quaint and charming American residence on Washington Sq., New York. Here Mrs. Guin- ness and her friend Mrs. Harry Payne itney have contrived some most unu- For September, 1913 F. 23 sual and interesting entertainments. Wearying of conventionalities, Mrs. Guin- ness founded The Stage Society, an association of progressives, whose purpose it is to promote the production of plays unsuited for presentation to the general public. [eee

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JOHN WANAMAK IX years ago the home of John Wanamaker on the old York Road near Philadelphia was burned to the ground; to-day, a new “Lindenhurst” stands on the same site against a back- ground of exceptional natural beauty. To replace the low, rambling, brown stone structure, John F. Windrim, the architect, has erected a house of the eighteenth century French type. Even to the most. minute detail the feeling and atmosphere of France in the days of 1754 have been conserved, and are reproduced in the plain white walls, unobtrusive fire-places, the absence of mantels, and the elim- ination of unnecessary pictures and bric-a-brac. The broad terrace, outlined with large trees, and the living porch with its silver-grey wicker furniture, upholstered in Chinese blue, and its Mandarin cushions, make an inviting entrance to the house. From this elevation. the visitor can gaze over the green-sward and can even catch’a glimpse of the tennis courts where benches of Ital- ian marble have been placed for the spectators. Within, the library, with an absence of ostentation in its low-lined walls, suggests an ideal retreat for study and serious thought. Across the hall is the formal dining room, which, while it lacks the intimate charm of the morning room the family ordinarily use, has a distinct old-world air created by the marble side-table, and an effective colour scheme developed in the dull pink and gold of the tapestry furniture 6n the old blue tones of the vel- vet carpet. Many of the ideas which add to the com- fort, as well as to the beauty, of the house emanated from Mrs. Wanamaker who per- sonally supervised the plans. Only a femi- nine mind would have planned for the gen- erous closets, veritable small rooms lined with glass, and the spacious bathrooms, adjoining each sleep- ing apartment, with " inner glass cabinets a for the shower and needle baths. That comfort has been Mrs. Wanamaker’s first thought is evidenced in the furnishing of her sleeping apartment which is re- produced in the upper left corner. The kitchens, likewise, have received special atten- tion from Mrs. Wanamaker, and are on the same elaborate scale as those in the first-class hotels with separate tile-lined and copper furnished rooms for vegetables, fruits, and meats. It is expected that “Lindenhurst” will be the scene of 24

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Wanamaker, whose photograph is shown in the center of the page, lives part of the year with her grandmother, and the remainder with her father and her step-mother who was the lovely Miss Violet Cruger of New York. 25 many handsome entertainments this autumn and winter when Marie Louise Wanamaker, the younger daughter of Rodman Wanamaker, will be introduced to society. Miss

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Adelina and Michael A Case of Misnomers By Glen Visscher EpITOR’S NOTE:—Not so important as the Stars, perhaps, but much loved by actors and audience are these two beginners on the stage— Adelina, Doris Keane’s pet monkey, and Laurette Taylor’s Michael, such a “doggy dog.” Miss Laurette Taylor in “Peg o’ My Heart” “Now, look at Michael—you could never mistake Michael for anything but a dog!’’ WO new stars began to twinkle in the theatrical firmament last season, and, as they both appeared in plays that bid fair to continue on like Tennyson’s brook, ‘“forever’—more will be heard from them. They are “Adelina” in “ Romance,” and ‘‘ Michael” in “Peg o’ My Heart.” “T have brought my leet-tal ba-by to show you,” says La Cavallini, the famous opera singer, speaking of her pet to the aunt of the young clergyman. “My Adelina!” “Adelina!” gasps the horrified spinster, looking at the little velvet-clad monkey. “Si, Adelina—I call her that because she look so vera mooch like Patti in ‘Traviata.’” Adelina As Adelina is not more than a year old, and made her début at a very tender age, she may be called a “child actress.”’ She is winsome, but as capricious and spoiled as might be expected ofone who has a great prima donna for a namesake; who lives in an atmosphere of adulation, is regularly “made-up” and dressed in velvet, with a feathered and be- jeweled cap. This wearing of costumes was once the bane of Adelina’s young life, but she learned to like them, later, and the regular ceremony gone through with after every performance was for Mr. A. E. Anson, who played Van Tuyl, to stop and unbutton Adelina’s frock, after which she “undressed” herself. She also learned what it meant to be before the footlights, and not only took her ‘‘cues”’ at the proper time, shak- ing hands, and doing all the little tricks of the part in a manner quite “‘professional,”’ but she insisted upon taking her “call” after the curtain of the second act; in which she first ap- pears. Once this was neg- lected. The screams and wails of rage that she gave vent to threatened to bring a_ hurry -call from representatives of both the Children’s Society and _ the S. P. C. A. She had to be coaxed back into good humour, and ever after that took the ‘““bow”’ which was her dué. It is said that be- fore she understood what was expected of her she was very peevish and much frightened. Miss Keane laughingly told me, “I rehearsed with Adelina in one hand, and a bottle of per- oxide in the other, as she bit and scratched me continually.” At present, however, Adelina dearly loves her “mother” and always curls up beside her on the couch in the dressing-room when La Cavallina rests. Adelina—when she was young and unac- quainted—so far forgot herself as to bite the hand of her press agent, which for a profes- sional is even worse than to bite the hand that feeds. But, when she discovered that it was a Press Agent she had thus maltreated, she at once apologized, with cooings, whimperings, and all the other little ways of saying, ‘‘Come, let us be friends,’ known to monkeys, and they have been firm friends ever since. Adelina’s Character as Her Palm Tells It Like most celebrities, Adelina has had her palm read, and it is declared to be remarkably like Miss Keane’s own, the lines of fate showing plainly an artistic career, much success, and a long, active life. The important difference is that Adelina has no “heart line,” therefore she will have no capacity for romance, although helping at present to adorn the beautiful tale of one. She is said to be the only monkey who has 26 Miss Doris Keane in “Romance” “But of course she is dress’—would you ’ave her go—how you say—‘na-keed’ ?” Photograph by Mishkin Studio ever visited the Zoo at Bronx Park, and es- caped! She was taken there by Miss Keane, and the reception given them was most cordial. ‘“‘A very pleasant time was had,” the guests at that up-to-date hotel for jungle beasts doing the honours, while greetings from the loved ones at home were exchanged by Adelina and the vari- ous “cousins and aunts” of her family. This spoiled footlight favourite is spending the summer with Miss Keane, on a trip abroad, making the acquaintance, while there, of many of Europe’s notable personages in the world of art and letters. It is to be hoped that the flat- tery received in “‘high society’’ will not spoil her natural aptitude for study, and the promise she gives of being able to climb much higher— artistically! Michael But if Adelina coquettes and scolds, taking the goods the gods bestow with an air of claim- ing a birthright, ‘‘ Michael,’ dear Michael, is graciousness personified, and wins new friends with every wag of his stubby tail. “Tf a dog has got to be a dog, he should be made to look like a dog,” says Peg, comment- ing on some people’s foolish pets. “‘ Now, look at Michael—you never could mistake Michael for anything but a dog.” And this is true, for a regular dog is Michael, disdaining ‘‘make-up”’ and furbelows. He cost $1.25 in the city pound, but now is the beloved pet, not only of “Peg,” but also of the entire company and staff at the Cort Theatre. He eats dog-biscuits on the silk-covered couch in the star dressing-room, and makes the trips to and from the theatre in his mistress-—Miss Laurette Taylor’s—automobile. He takes a curtain call by himself at every performance, and waits as patiently and intelligently for his “cue” as any human actor, and much more conscientiously than some. He has raised him- self to an enviable position by worth and ability. But, as there is a rift in every lute, a cloud in every sky, and most idols have clay feet, there is a sad truth to be told about Adelina and Michael. They are both impostors, for—Michael has recently been obliged to temporarily relinquish the part to an understudy as she is about to assume the duties of motherhood. And “ Adelina” is a boy. Harper’s Bazar

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In Defiance of Theatrical Tradition By Mrs. O’Kane Conwell With Drawings by the Author Photograph by The Campbell Studios EDITOR’S NOTE:—Is it necessary, on the stage, that costumes should follow certain definitely laid-down lines? Are the cut and dried traditions of the stage as essential as they seem to the super- stitious folk behind the footlights? One woman has successfully defied them and she tells here some- thing of her theories and their working-out. N the stage world I am looked upon as an amateur. It is thought that I succeeded with Miss Doris Keane’s “Romance”’ cos- tumes through good luck, for there is a tradition in the theatrical world that stage cos- tumers are made, not born. It is true that I had had no theatrical ex- perience when Miss Keane gave me the oppor- tunity to dress Cavallini, but in looking back I realize that all my life I had been training my- self for this work. During the term that I was a student of Whistler and MacMonnies in Paris, I longed for the opportunity to work on larger canvases. When not engaged in such work I spent my time studying the stage from the viewpoints of the various countries, of course developing many theories which I hoped some day to carry out. I recall that while decorating a set of books for the late Pierpont Morgan, my mind kept turning to the wonderful possibilities the stage held for the artist. One day I mentioned to Miss Keane that I hoped in time to see stage costuming developed from the viewpoint of the artist and mural dec- orator and she said, ‘‘ You shall make my cos- tumes for Cavallini along those lines.” Thus I was embarked on the work that only years of study have made possible. To those who have not seen “‘Romance” it may be neces- sary to explain that Miss Keane’s part is that of a temperamental Italian prima donna who For September, 1913 comes to New York in the year 1850 and has a most . ardent love affair with a young clergyman. There had been other men in her life but in the life of the clergy- man there had been no other woman. My problem was to dress Cavallini so that each costume should be symbolic of the character, Latin to the fingertips. I had to surround her with the atmosphere that is native to a woman of her race and genius. In doing this I had the sympathy and assistance of the author, Mr. Edward Sheldon. Each detail was carefully thought out and developed, for on the perfection of detail depend the beauty and harmony of a production. One does not get satisfactory results on the stage with slap- dash methods, each little accessory must be fitted into the general scheme with the accuracy of a mosaic. For instance, those who have 27 seen “Romance” will recall the cradle—Ade- lina’s cradle which figures in the third act. It is the kind of cradle that an Italian woman of that period would have used, a bit of gilded rattan and rose silk. This cradle, however, was the occasion of much discussion. Mr. Sheldon suggested a mahogany affair such as our grandmothers used, but I objected for reasons I shall explain pres- ently and proceeded to study the old Italian prints and delve into the museums. I read nu- merous Italian plays to gain a clueinmy dilemma. The result justified my research, for Cav- allini could never have rocked a mahogany cradle while in the passion she simulated in that act. Another thing, the sheets and spread used in the cradle had to be of exactly the right width and length to avoid bother in removing the monkey. Many a scene has been ruined by care- less preparation in such minor details. Thus, you see, nothing was left to chance. I was warned that I must not use black and white in my costumes. I con- tended that I should be absolutely free, without regard to tradition, to get the effects desired, no matter what those traditions might be. So two of Cavallini’s most effective costumes were developed in black and white. The second act is quite tragic. It was nec- essary therefore to gown the prima donna with dignity and symbolize her emotional character, for dignity and temperament are the keynotes of this scene between her and the young clergy- man. Continued on page 45.

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Drawings By Soulte The well-dressed Parisienne wears to tea in the afternoon a frock of satin duvet in copper colour trimmed with heavy cream-coloured lace. Her hat is of black velvet with aigrette trim- mings and she adds the finishing touch in the orange fox neckpiece fastened on the shoulder, the tail falling in the back. For the ‘“‘Thé dansante”’ she selects a white chiffon gown with flounces of old blue maline outlined with grey fur. The simple kimono blouse is given a dressy finish by the lace frill and Medici collar edged with fur. This frock she complements with a black tulle hat. At the ball, she appears in a stunning creation of heather coloured crepe de Chine with a tunic of chiffon and damask broche worked ina silver thread and set with jewels. The wide girdle is of the damask broche and the corsage is a mere veiling of chiffon and fine lace. A suit of mouse coloured duvetyn is worn to the morning promenade in the Bois. The jaunty little jacket is finished with a black satin sash loosely fastened in the back. A black velvet hat is caught up at the side by a large wild rose. When our chic Parisienne leaves her apart- ments for the dance she wraps herself in an exquisite confection of Empire green chiffon brocaded in velvet. The lower part of the gar- ment is of lace, and the edges are softened by cream coloured ostrich and a_plaited chiffon frill. 28 Harper’s Bazar

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“Un pew de tort EDITOR’S NOTE:—Our Paris Correspond- ent gives you in this article much valuable advance information on the change in styles. The great Redfern has told her his views, and the foremost manufacturers of Europe Photograph by Talbot, Paris The piquancy of this black lace evening hat lies in the curve of the brim and the saucy gourah mount. The flare of the lampshade tunic on this white taffeta frock is accentuated by the band of brown fur. Photograph by Paul Thompsun There is an interesting contrast in the wide black satin sash on the left figure and the narrower girdle with the shaped front panel which lends the cachet to the lingerie frock. The bright coloured fur neck-pieces add an effective dash of colour to the lace and tulle frocks. In order to have the new silhouette which is demonstrated by the figure at the right, women do not hesitate to pad the abdomen. The little Dutch caps of lace which have been worn with the lingerie frocks this summer will be chic for the theatre this coming Season, The butterfly has furnished the motif for this charming theatre hat of black lace. For September, 1913 By Mlle. Chaquin Photograph by Underwood & Underwood 29 have showed her the wonderful new fabrics —velvets, silks, and woolens—that the well known couturiers have ordered for the cre- ations with which they hope to startle the fashion world at the openings. Photographs by the Internationai News Service (Continued on page 46) Photograph by Manuel, Paris HE question, which at the pres- ent moment is tormenting the greater part of the feminine portion of humanity, is regard- ing the particular form the fashion for the winter is to take, as the majority of us, never learning from experience, look upon fashion as some strange and unaccountable sort of thing, a freak of nature, liable to perform the most un- heard of antics, and sleight of hand tricks. As a matter of fact it never does, but still we fear and still expect, though the changes from one season to the next are never very pronounced or very radical. How can they be? The makers of fashion, say what you will, are after all rational creatures and though from the very nature of their business they require a change, it is a change that evolves rather than jumps full fledged and ready grown without hint or warning from one opening to the next. To be sure, there is a great cry now-a-days in all branches and departments of life for the development of the individual, and many of the designers claim with a flattering smile that women are no longer led like a

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Robert W. Chambers Entitled Latest Story The Orange Puppy Ep!Tor’s NoTE.— Having been from her birth safeguarded on every side by parents, nurses and governesses, Cecil Cassillis has never She longs for action and finds man walking briskly past td Willowmere has been arranged and with her parents and a party of friends Cecil and her M.. Cassillis’s yacht. Florida lagoons, she sees again the young man whose brisk walk aroused her desire for freedom. This time he is passing in a small She announces to Lord Willowmere that she thinks she will had a chance even to think for herself. her interest engaged by the sight of a apy de her New York home. Her marriage to fiance sail south on launch. HEN he had finished his entry, she said: ‘‘You have not mentioned my coming to you, and how we looked for ichneumon fles together.” “I—” He was silent. She said timidly: “I know I count for ab- solutely nothing in the important experiences of a naturalist, but—I did look very hard for ichneumon flies. Couldn’t you write in your field book that I tried very hard to help you?”’ He wrote gravely: “Miss Cassillis most generously volunteered her invaluable aid, and spared no effort to discover any possible foe that might prove to be parasitic upon these larvae. But so far without success.” “Thank you,” she said, in a low voice. And, after a short silence: ‘‘It was not mere vanity, Mr. Jones. Do you understand?” “T know it was not vanity, even if I do not entirely understand,” he said. “Shall I tell you?” ** Please.” “Tt was the first thing that I have ever been permitted to do all by myself. It meant so much to me.... And I wished to have a little record of it—even if you think it is of no scientific importance.” “Tt is of more importance than—” But he managed to stop himself, slightly startled. She had lifted her eyes from the pages of the field book to look at him. When his voice failed, and while the red burned brilliantly in his ears, she resumed her perusal of his journal, gravely. After a while, though she turned the pages as if she were really reading, he con- cluded that her mind was elsewhere. It was. Presently he rose, mended the fire, filled the kettle, and unhooked the brace of wild ducks from the eaves where they swung, and marched off with them toward the water. When he returned, the ducks were plucked and split for broiling. He found her seated as he had left her, dreaming awake, idle hands folded on the pages of his open field-book. For dinner they had broiled mallard, coffee, ash-cakes, and bon-bons. After it she smoked a cigarette with him. Later she informed him that it was her first, and that she liked it, and requested another. “Don’t,” he said, smiling. “Why?” “Tt spoils a girl’s voice, ultimately.” “But it’s very agreeable.” ‘Will you promise not to?” he asked, lightly. Suddenly her blue eyes became serious. “Yes,” she said, “if you wish.” The woods grew darker. Far across the lagoon a tiger-owl woke up and began to yelp like a half-strangled hobgoblin. She sat silent for a little while, then very quietly and frankly put her hand on Jones’s. It was shaking. “T am afraid of that sound,” she said calmly. “It is only a big owl,” he reassured her, retaining her hand. “Ts that what it is? How very dark the woods are. I had no idea that there could be such utter darkness. I am not sure that I care for it.” “There is nothing to harm you in these woods.” Gazing out over the study of living thin ““No bears and wolves and panthers?”’ “There are a few—and all very anxious to keep away from anything human.” “Are you sure?” ** Absolutely.” “Do you mind if I leave my hand where it is?” It appeared that he had no insurmountable objections. After the seventh tiger-owl had awakened and the inky blackness quivered with the witch-like shouting and hellish tumult, he felt her shoulder pressing against his. And bending to look into her face he saw that all the color in it had fled. “You mustn’t be frightened,” he said earn- estly. “Sut t am. Fm sory...... FH tex to accustom myself to it. ... The darkness is a—a trifle terrifying—isn’t it?” “Tt’s beautiful, too,” he said, looking up at the firelit foliage overhead. She looked up also, her slender throat glimmering rosy in the embers’ glare. After a moment she nodded: “It zs wonderful. ... If I only had a little time to accustom myself to it I am sure I should love it. ... Oh! What was that very loud splash out there in the dark?” “A big fish playing in the lagoon; or per- haps wild ducks feeding.” After a few minutes he felt her soft hand tighten within his. “It sounds as though some great creature were prowling around our fire,” she whispered. “Do you hear its stealthy tread?” “Noises in the forest are exaggerated,” he said carelessly. ‘‘It may be a squirrel or some little furry creature out hunting for his supper. Please don’t be afraid.” “Then it isn’t a bear?”’ “No, dear,” he said, so naturally and un- thinkingly that for a full second neither realized the awful break of Delancy Jones. When they did they said nothing about it. But it wassome time before speech was resumed. She was the first to recover. Perhaps the demoralization was largely his. It usually is that way. She said: ‘“‘This has been the most perfect day of my entire life. I’m even glad I am a little scared. It is delicious to be a trifle afraid. But I’m not, now!—very much... . Is there any established hour for bed-time in the woods?”’ “Inclination sounds the hour.” “Tsn’t that wonderful!” she sighed, her eyes on the fire. “Inclination rules in the forest... . And here I am.” Her firelit, copper-tinted hair masked her lovely eyes in a soft shadow. Her shoulder stirred rhythmically as she breathed. “And here you live all alone,” she mused, half to herself... . ‘I once saw you pitch a game against Yale.... And the next time I saw you walking very busily down Fifth Avenue. .. . And now—you are—here. ... That is wonderful. ... Everything seems to be wonderful in this place. . . . Wh-what is that flapping noise, please?”’ ‘‘Two herons fighting in the sedge.” “You know everything. ... That is the most wonderful of all. And yet you say you ‘are not famous?” 30 not marry him after all, writes a letter of explanation to her mother, and slips away in a small boat provisioned for three days of unguarded peace. From her canoe she sees many unusual sights—birds, butterflies, snakes, vegetation—that are unfamiliar and fascinating. steps ashore to meet the young man of the brisk walk, who has left his launch, the Orange Pu pillars for the Smithsonian is aroused by his description of his work. She sets up her tent and decides to stay and help him, during her three days of freedom, in his hunt for enemies of the caterpillars. Finally she y- He is a naturalist, studying cater- titute. Her latent enthusiasm for the “Nobody ever heard of me outside the Smithsonian.” “But—you must become famous. To-mor- row I shall look very hard for an ichneumon fly for you—” “But your discovery will make you famou., Miss Cassillis—” “Why—why, it’s for you that I am going to search so hard! Did you suppose I would dream of claiming any of the glory!” He said, striving to speak coolly: “It is very generous and sweet of you... . And, after all, I hardly suppose that you need any added lustre or any additional happiness in a life which must be so full, so complete, and so care-free.”’ She was silent for a while, then: “Is your life then so full of care, Mr. Jones?” “Oh, no,”’ he said; “‘I get on somehow.” “Tell me,” she insisted. “What am I to tell you?’’ “Why it is that your life is care-ridden.” “But it isn’t—” “Tell me!” He said, gaily enough: “To labour for others is sometimes a little irksome. . . . I am not discontented. ... Only, if I had means—if I had barely sufficient—there are so many fascinating and exciting lines of independent research to follow—to make a name in—” He broke off with a light laugh, leaned forward and laid another log on the fire. “You cannot afford it?” she asked, in a low voice; and for the moment astonishment ruled her to discover that this very perfect specimen of intelligent and gifted manhood was struggling under such an amazingly trifling disadvantage. Only from reading and from hearsay had she been vaguely acquainted with the existence of poverty. “No,” he said pleasantly. ‘“‘I can not yet afford myself the happiness of independent research.” “When will you be able to afford it?”’ Neither was embarrassed; he looked thought- fully into the fire; and for a while she watched him in his brown study. “Will it be soon?” sheasked, under her breath. “No, dear.” That time a full minute intervened before either realized how he had answered. And both remained exceedingly still until she said calmly: “T thought you were the very ideal embodi- ment of personal liberty. And now I find that wretched and petty and ignoble circumstances fetter even sucha manas youare. It—it—is— is heartbreaking.” “Tt won’t last forever,” he said, controlling his voice. “But the years are going—the best years, Mr. Jones. And your life’s work beckons you. And you are equipped for it, and you can not take it!” “Some day—” But he could say no more then, with her hand tightening in his. ““To—to rise superior to circumstances— that is god-like, isn’t it?” she said. “Yes.” He laughed. ‘But on six hundred dollars a year a man can’t rise very high above circumstances.” The shock left her silent. Any gown of hers (Continued on page 43) Harper’s Bazar ’

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$200,000,000 for These Children These boys and girls will some day inherit enormous _ their dogs and go-carts, they are constantly in the open, build- wealth. They lead the simplest lives, not greatly different from ing bodies which must stand the stress of the responsibilities the children of lesser fortune. With their pails and shovels, which are liable to be theirs in future years. Photographs by International News Service Beginning in the upper [left hand corner these little Carnegies, of Pittsburg, who are spending their first season at is the only child of the Edward McLeans of Washington, and children of fortune are Le Grand Chester Griswold, son Southampton, and Gordon Douglass, the older son of Mr. and a grandson of John McLean. This pony, by the way, is of the Le Grand Griswolds, whose summer home is at Mrs. Gordon Douglass, and a grandson of Mr. Luther Kountze only one of Vinson’s pets. Ogden Mills ig who is lead- i Southampton, Long Island; Jean and Gifford Cochran, of New York. In the upper right hand corner is Margaret ing his pet beagle, is the son of Mr. and Mrs. Harold Phipps of children of Mr. and Mrs. Gifford Cochran, of Southampton. Shaw, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Shaw, and below her. Westbury, Long Island. His grandfathers are John ipps Just below Gifford is Carter Carnegie, son of the George is Beardsley Douglass. Vinson McLean, with his pet pony, and Darius Ogden Mills. For September, 1913 31

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The Thousandth Woman By E. W. Hornung (Continued from Page 7) The Girl and the Photograph Cazalet shook his head. ‘‘ None who would look on herself in that light,” he interrupted. It was all he said, but once more Toye was regarding him as shrewdly as when the night was younger, and the littleness of the world had not yet made them confidant and boon companion. Eight bells actually struck before their great talk ended; and Cazalet swore that he missed the ‘“‘Watches aft, sir!” of the sailing-vessel ten years before; and recalled how they had never changed watch without putting the ship about, his last time in the Bay. “Say!” exclaimed Hilton Toye, knitting his brows over some nebulous recollection of his own. “I seem to have heard of you and some of your yarns before. Didn’t you spend nights in a log-hut miles and miles from any other human being?” It was as they were turning in at last, but the question spoiled a yawn for Cazalet. ‘Sometimes, at one of our out-stations,”’ said he, looking puzzled. “T’ve seen your photograph,” said Toye, regarding him with a more critical stare. “‘But it was with a beard.” “T had it off when I was ashore the other day,” said Cazalet. “I always meant to, be- fore the end of the voyage.” “TIT see. It was a Miss Macnair showed me that photograph—Miss Blanche Macnair— lives in a little house down there near your old home. I judge hers is another old home that’s been broken up since your day.” “They’ve all got married. That’s why.” “Except Miss Blanche. You write to her some, Mr. Cazalet?”’ “Once a year—regularly. It was a promise. We were kids together,”’ he explained, as he climbed back into the upper berth. ‘Guess you were a lucky kid,” said the voice below. ‘“‘She’sonein a thousand, Miss Blanche Macnair!”’ The Stopping of the Screw Southampton Water was an ornamental lake dotted with fairy lamps. The stars above seemed only a far-away reflex of those below; but in their turn they shimmered on the sleek, silken arm of sleeping sea. It was a midsum- mer night, lagging a whole season behind its fellows. But already it was so late that the English passengers on the Kaiser Fritz had abandoned all thought of catching the last train up to London. They tramped the deck in their noisy, shiny, shore-going boots; they manned the rail in lazy, inarticulate appreciation of the nocturne in blue stippled with green and red and count- less yellow lights. But Cazalet, who had been ten years buried in the bush, was not even on deck. He had finished packing; the stateroom floor was impassable with the baggage. There was scarcely room to sit down, but in what there was sat Cazalet like a soul in torment. All the vultures of the night before, of his dread- ful dream, and of the poignant reminiscences to which his dream had led, might have been gnawing at his vitals as he sat there waiting to set foot once more in the land from which a bitter blow had driven him. Second Sight Yet the bitterness might have been allayed by the consciousness that he at any rate had turned it to account. It had been, indeed, the making of him; thanks to that stern incentive, even some of the sweets of a deserved success were already his. But there was no hint of complacency in Cazalet’s attitude. He jumped to his feet suddenly as the screw stopped for the first time; but that might have been just the curious shock which its cessation always causes after days at sea. Only the same thing happened again and yet again, as often as ever the engines paused before the end. Cazalet would spring up and watch his stateroom door with clenched fists and haunted eyes. But he had time to overcome the impulse before the door at last flew open, and then slammed behind Hilton Toye. Toye was in a state of excitement even more abnormal than Cazalet’s nervous despondency, which indeed it prevented him from observing. It was instantaneously clear that Toye was astounded, thrilled, almost triumphant but as yet just drawing the line at that. A news- paper fluttered in his hand. ““Second sight?” he ejaculated, as though it were the night before and Cazalet still shaken by his dream. “I guess you’ve got it in full measure, pressed down and running over, Mr. Cazalet!” It wasa sorry sample of his talk. Hilton Toye did not usually mix the ready metaphors that nevertheless had to satisfy an inner censor, of some austerity, before they were allowed to leave those deliberate lips. As a rule there was dignity in that deliberation; it never for a moment, or for any ordinary moment, sug- gested want of confidence, for example. It could even dignify some outworn modes of transatlantic speech which still preserved a perpetual freshness in the mouth of Hilton Toye. Yet now, in his strange excitement, word and tone alike were on the level of the stage American’s. “You don’t mean about Cazalet seemed to be swallowing. “‘T do, sir!” cried Hilton Toye. fe about Henry Craven?” “Sure.” “‘Has—something or other—happened to him?” “en. “You don’t mean to say he’s—dead?” “Last Wednesday night!’ Toye looked at his paper. ‘‘No, I guess I’m wrong. Seems it happened Wednesday, but he only passed away Sunday morning.” Cazalet still sat staring at him—there was not room for two of them on their feet—but into his heavy stare there came a- gleam of leaden wisdom. “That’s nearly a week ago,” he said. ‘So I didn’t dream of it when it happened, after all.” “You dreamed you saw him lying dead, and so he was,” said Toye. ‘The funeral’s been to-day. I don’t know, but that seems to me just about the next nearest thing to seeing the crime perpetrated in a vision.” “Crime!” cried Cazalet. “What crime?” “Murder, sir!”’ said Hilton Toye. “ Wilful, brutal, bloody murder! Here’s the paper; better read it for yourself.” The Tale of the Murder The paper fluttered in Cazalet’s clutch as it had done in Toye’s; but that was as natural as his puzzled frown over the cryptic allusions of a journal which had dealt fully with the as- certainable facts in previous issues. Some few emerged between the lines. Henry Craven had received his fatal injuries on the Wednes- day of the previous week. The thing had hap- pened in his library, at or about half-past seven in the evening; but how a crime, which was apparently a profound mystery, had been timed to within a minute of its commission did not appear among the latest particulars. No arrest had been made. No clue was men- tioned, beyond the statement that the police were still searching for a definite instrument with which it was evidently assumed that the deed had been committed. There was in fact a close description of an unusual weapon, a special constable’s very special truncheon. It had hung as a cherished trophy on the library wall, from which it was missing, while the very imprint of a silver shield, mounted on the thick end of the weapon, was stated to have been dis- covered on the scalp of the fractured skull. ” ’ 32 “We must get hold of an evening paper,” said Cazalet. ‘‘ Fancy, his own famous trunch- eon! He had it mounted and inscribed himself, so that it shouldn’t be forgotten how he’d fought for law and order at Trafalgar Square. That was the man all over.” There Was Robbery Too His voice and manner achieved the excessive indifference which the English type holds due from itself after any excess of feeling. Toye also was himself again, his alert mind working keenly yet darkly in his acute eyes. “T wonder if it was a murder?” he speculated. “T bet it wasn’t a deliberate murder.” “What else could it have been?” “Kind of manslaughter. Deliberate mur- derers don’t trust to chance weapons hanging on their victim’s walls.” “You forget,”’ said Cazalet, “that he was robbed as well.” “Do they claim that?” cried Hilton Toye. “T guess I skipped some. Where does it say about his being robbed?” “Here!” Cazalet had scanned the paper eagerly; his finger drummed upon the place. “*The police,’” he read out, in some sort of triumph, “ ‘have now been furnished with a full description of the missing watch and trinkets and the other articles believed to have been taken from the pockets of the deceased.’ What’s that but robbery?” “You’re dead right,” said Toye. “I missed that somehow. Yet who in thunder tracks a man down to rob and murder him in his own home? But when you’ve brained a man, be- cause you couldn’t keep your hands off him, you might deliberately do all the rest to make it seem like the work of thieves.” Hilton Toye looked a judge of deliberation as he measured his irrefutable words. He looked something more. Cazalet could not tear his blue eyes from the penetrating pair that met them with a sombre twinkle, and enlightened gusto, quite uncomfortably suggestive at such a moment. “You aren’t a detective, by any chance, are you?” asked Cazalet, with rather clumsy humor. Strange Companions “No, sir! But I’ve often thought I wouldn’t mind being one,” said Toye, chuckling. “TL rather figure I might do something at it. If things don’t go my way in your old country, and they put up a big enough reward, why, here’s a man I knew and a place I know, and I might have a mind to try my hand.” They went ashore together, and to the same hotel at Southampton for the night. Perhaps neither could have said from which side the initiative came; but midnight found the chance pair with their legs under the same heavy Victorian mahogany, devouring cold beef, ham, and pickles as phlegmatically as commer- cial travelers who had never been off the island in their lives. Yet somehow Cazalet seemed less depressed than he had been before landing; the old English ale in a pewter tankard even elicited a few of those anecdotes and piquant comparisons in which his conversation was at its best. It was at its worst on general ques- tions, or on concrete topics not introduced by himself; and into this category, perhaps not unnaturally, fell such further particulars of the Thames Valley mystery as were to be found in an evening paperattheinn. These included a fragmentary report of the adjourned inquest, and the actual offer of such a reward by the dead man’s firm, for the apprehension of his murderer, as made Toye’s eyes glisten in his sagacious head. But Cazalet, though he had skimmed the many-headed column before sitting down to supper, flatly declined to discuss the tragedy his first night ashore. (Continued next month) Harper’s Bazar

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1.—The picturesque poke bonnet in green velvet with fur fe and a small feather fantasy is typical of Carlier. 2.—For the street, Lewis has designed the black velvet turban with wing-shaped velvet bow,the bow and the brim be- ing edged with black patent leather. 3.—A trotteur hat of steel-gray velvet with a fantasy of coque feathers in the same shade is desi d by Alphonsi 5.—Alphonsine has adapted the curled and uncurled brown ostrich feathers to his hat of cherry velvet. A band of skunk fur conceals the joining of the soft crown and shirred brim. The blouse worn with this hat is of crepe de Chine with cream lace and touches of black velvet. _6.—Alphonsine has created a charming all-gray hat by 4.—Lewis has made effective use of jet in this hat of black velvet with a band of jet beads outlining the brim and a large jet ornament from which rises the black Chinese aigrette. EpITor’s NoTE:—A new Fall hat will give an up-to-the-minute air to the entire costume. The problem, however, is to select the choicest and most exclusive shapes and trimmings. You cannot go astray in your choice if you follow the advice of Lewis, the well-known Paris milliner, whose hats herald the styles in Paris and New York. Lewis, the Paris Milliner, Tells of New Fall Hats ° HERE has rarely been a season when hats have presented a wider range of choice. There are large hats, small hats, and moderate sized hats; hats with turn back brims in turban form, or hats with brims drooping on one side and rolled For September, 1913 tr g a gray velvet frame with gray wings of the same shade. The white crepe de Chine blouse has a soft silk girdle and bow caught by a buckle covered with silk. Net ruffles finish the sleeves and soften the neck. high on the other, the height accentuated by the upstanding position of the trimmings. Many of the brims are stiff and straight; many are bent and twisted into the most becoming angles, but whatever the brim, or whatever the shape or size of the hat, all, without exception, are worn crushed low on one side of the head entirely covering the ear, but tilted back from the hair on the other. It is difficult to determine the position of the trimming as it depends largely upon the hat, the coiffure,and the woman. It may be posed directly in the middle of the front, slightly to one side, or directly at the back, but it is always erect, save in some few instances when it is tu ked under the raised brim of the larger hats, in which case it is usually of small ostrich tips. 33 7.—The superstition regarding peacock feathers has been forgotten by Lewis who has used one as the chief adornment to a hat of tete de negre velvet with a heavy jet band. 8.—Steel gray is a favourite colour of Carlier, who has used it on the velvet hat which she has trimmed with a black curled Chinese aigrette. Novelties in Trimmings The newest trimmings are the “‘specifére” and the “plume de vautour” or feather of the vulture. The former is a species of Chinese osprey, coarse and curly, not unlike the aigrette of the heron; the latter is a soft downy feather like the fluff on a cock’s foot. Both are ar- ranged in tall bushy aigrette form. In general, there is a tendency towards a combination of trimmings, such as the curled and uncurled ostrich. They are used extensively, shadowed by sprays of Numidi “specifére,” cut short, dyed and combined with the brilliant-eyed feathers of the peacock, and “ plume de vautour” formed into aigrettes and topped by a few curl- ing strands of coque feathers. (Continued on page 48.)

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WORTH Y¥ Sas C OMMON sense is to be the strongest influence at work upon the fashions for the fall. This may be a dangerous proclamation to announce, for the idea almost universally accepted is that because a thing is sensible it cannot be smart. Now by com- mon sense I do not mean dress and pr A.—The very wide ceinture and underskirt of suit. this white net and charmeuse gown are embroidered in large conventional flowers in shades of pink and violet. ° good li tage. would B.—The novel yoke effect lends the cachet to this dark blue serge gown which is lightened with a soft white linen vest. C.—The plaited rose chiffon trousers, heavily beaded, give a startling appearance to the Worth dancing frock of purple chiffon and rose satin par- tially veiled by the scarf-like drapery of chiffon em- broidered in gold. D.—The vogue for taffeta is charmingly inter- preted in this gown of apricot taffeta with corsage and tunic of cream lace. E.—A frilled peplum and two deep flounces gath- ered on a cord lend the suggestion of fullness to this skirt of white net. F.—The girdle of plaid ribbon relieves the severe tailored appearance of a cor- beau blue serge suit. 34 PRAIS reform. Far from it; and there is much that is both aesthetic and good in the present modes. China, Japan, Turkey, have all proved fruitful sources of inspiration, and will still influence styles to a greater or less degree; India, as well, presents many good points for the designer, but I believe that all fashion has now reached a stage where it is time to call a halt. Wittingly, or unwittingly, there is a strong under-current of public senti- ment in favor of—one might say almost—good taste. Until now the great cry has been fora change, anything so that it be different. Money is no object; variety and sen- sation are everything and this, naturally, has resulted in a perversion of the styles. Misfitting suits, for instance, or suits that give that impression, have become the rage. The fashion- able woman wears’ a collar bunched up in the back, a skirt pulled up in the front, a loosely-girdled waist, esents the appearance of being absolutely thrown together. The Up-to-Date Tailor Suit Take a square piece of cloth, cut a hole in the middle, sew it up under the arm, girdle it richly, and you have the up-to-date tailor This, I think, is a mistake. One of the strongest impres- sions made upon me while in America was the manner in which the American woman wore her tailor-mades. Smart, simple, of ne, there is nothing in which she shows to better advan- On my return I told the Parisian dressmakers that they have to look to their laurels or New York would equal, if not excel, them in this department. Corsets - Or No Corsets? I have been asked many times, particularly of late, about cor- sets, and my answer is that the perfect figure needs no aid. Un- fortunately Dame Nature is apt to be partial in her gifts in this respect, and more often than not it is necessary to resort to the (Continued on page 47) Harper’s Bazar

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EDITOR'S NOTE :—Though the Deauville races did not take place until the first week in August, our artist has sent these exclusive sketches of the most admired costumes. The late summer modes are guarded almost as zealously as the ideas to be B.— The draped girdle- yoke of peacock blue satin gives an unusual finish to the white crepe georgette frock designed by Bechoff-David. A frill of tulle softens the simple kimono blouse. A.— Graduated white tulle flounces add the chic to the soft taffeta gown. A band of lace crosses the back in a novel manner, and a girdle of king’s blue satin gives the requisite colour note. F.—Beer has used white soutache braid to excellent advantage on his afternoon frock of bright canary yellow crepe de Chine. It forms an elaborate decoration for the bottom of the skirt, adorns the front drapery, and adds a decorative finish to the bodice. The guimpe and undersleeves are of white net, and there is a novel pointed girdle. G.—The embroidered white batiste frock has so completely won the heart of the chic Parisi- enne that it will be worn well into the winter. Beer is using it for one of his late models. The tunic and underskirt are joined by an exquisite- ly embroidered motif, and an empiecement of the same embroidery gives eclat to the pretty kimono waist. Pink roses nestle at the side of the black velvet girdle. For September, 1913 The Bazar’s Paris Fashions exploited at the openings, and it was with great difficulty that our artist managed to peep‘ behind the scenes while these costumes were’being finished. Many new ideas are shown which are being de- veloped in the modes exhibited at the openings. C.—The lace drapery of this white char- meuse frock is arranged to give the modish “*hitched-up” effect in the front. Folds of the charmeuse are draped over the shoulders of the lace corsage and a cluster of bright red roses gives character to the costume, D.—The frock of robin’s egg blue crepe for a “* The Dansant”’ is given an Oriental air by the sash of black satin loosely knotted in the front. The raglan sleeves lend the cachet to the simple crepe waist, which is enhanced by a vest and Medici collar of cream coloured lace. E.—T he all-black frock is considered as chic as the all-white creation, and is par- ticularly effective in this model. The rounded points of the deep flounces are out- lined with narrow black silk fringe which looks like raveled silk. Flounces and corsage are of black net mounted over a black charmeuse foundation, the upper , part of the bodice being transparent.

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EpiTor’s NoTe.—What the Countess of War- wick says on the subject of beauty-culture has be- hind it the authority of a beautiful woman of the world, who has given these matters much earnest thought. She tells women here many things about their looks and which foods will mar and which improve them. HREE-FOURTHS of the bad complex- ions, the puny forms, not to mention the embittered dispositions we see, are due to a badly chosen diet, hurriedly eaten, and not digested. Half the world eats too much for its own good. But how many people really have the courage and the perseverance to choose the diet which most benefits them and to adhere to it stead- fastly? That one may keep in perfect health, the diet must vary according to the age of the sub- ject, for youth is building its body, maturity is conserving its strength, and age protects itself against the deterioration of the entire bodily structure. Many beautiful women of days gone by have left some chronicle of the way in which they preserved their own good looks, from Diane de Poitiers, who ought to go down in history as the first modern woman to take cold baths for her beauty, and Mademoiselle Mars, the great French actress, who insisted that an after-theater supper composed entirely of spinach constituted her -recipe for the unfad- ing loveliness of a famous complexion. Other celebrated beauties have flourished on a diet of milk, and innumerable women whose charms and graces were unrivaled were equally noted for the frugality of their table. I can say with safety that there never was a great beauty who over-ate habitually, as so many women do. Patches and Pimples No detail escaped the ferret-like eyes of one Samuel Pepys, who notes that the many black patches worn by a court lady whose beauty was waning were placed on her chin to cover pimples. He gives in full the menu of a “light Your Food and Your Looks repast ” partaken of by the dainty ladies of his time, but he draws no conclusions from the quantity of rich pastries and tarts and the lady’s disfigured countenance. The fact that one cannot sleep with the stomach empty is frequently given as excuse for late suppers. The excuse is sound enough, certainly. Many a sleepless night has been caused by the lack of a bite to eat, but the bite should consist of a biscuit, warm milk, a piece of bread and butter. Try Living on Milk Meat should never be eaten more than once a day, except by the doctor’s orders. While it is good for young people (not every young child, of course), the older one gets the less one should eat of it. The most perfect animal food is milk, which not only contains the principal elements of nutrition, but is easily digested, and is one of the greatest beautifiers in the world. I hear many readers protesting already, “Oh, I simply cannot drink milk.” The reason you cannot do so is probably because you do not drink milk and milk alone, but mix it with other articles of diet, frequently taking it with meat, against Mosaic law. Milk is a distinct food in itself, and the beauty seeker will find that a diet of milk alone, three or four quarts taken daily, will rest the digestion and do absolute wonders for the complexion and looks. But of course you must not expect to do any very strenuous work while on a milk régime. “Loaf and in- vite your soul,” and you will get all the benefits of the milk diet. Don’t for a minute believe that you can be a victim of the coffee and tea habit and have a good complexion. The caffein contained in coffee is injurious to the system, and the immedi- ate effect of coffee upon the nerves is to derange the circulation of the blood and arrest digestion. At first digestion is stimulated, but there al- ways follows a depression, often a mental as well as a physical one, during which time the digestive organs are retarded in their work. Fasting and Overfeeding To clear the complexion there is nothing better or simpler than a glass of water taken before breakfast, one tumblerful with a little lemon squeezed in it. The Continental breakfast, consisting of fruit, tea and toast or rolls, is the most healthful. Of all the fruits taken before breakfast grape- fruit and oranges are the best, but that is an individual matter, as is this entire question. I presume in America you eat more sweets than are consumed anywhere else in the world. A moderate allowance of well made and pure candy is certainly not harmful, but eaten in great quantities it can prove only disastrous to the complexion because of the fermentation which it sets up in the stomach. With some people fasting has become a fad, but when not carried to excess it is certainly beneficial, both to the health and the complex- ion. Begin by leaving off one meal a week, and then for one day in the month fast entirely, drinking only water flavored with lemon. During the fast, however, don’t over-exert yourself. Try to make it a day of complete rest, and you will find the benefits both lasting and surprising. 36 Pork and veal should not be on the bill of fare of the woman who values her complexion, and especially not of her who is stout. The woman who does not weigh enough and who has not succeeded in building up on a meat diet, would do well to eliminate these dishes entirely—she should give her stomach a perfect rest by a diet of milk, and then by easy stages begin with vegetables, cereals, and farinaceous foods. Pure olive oil taken two or three times a day between meals will sometimes help in putting on flesh, and has a lubricating influence at the same time. Olive oil can be taken after meals, from one to three tablespoonfuls, the regular every day diet remaining unchanged. Eat Slowly and Chew Well One of the greatest discoveries of the last decade is the healthful, life-prolonging action of soured milk upon the stomach and intestines. This milk has for centuries been the principal food of many races noted for their strength. No woman can expect to keep in good phys- ical condition if she eats too rapidly and does not thoroughly masticate her food. Mastica- tion is not an esthetic function, but it must be done properly and every mouthful of food should have its accompaniment of saliva. Hur- ried eating upsets the nerves of the stomach and causes a red and blotchy complexion. Women whose skins are very delicate and who suffer from tiny, distended veins which form a sort of tracery over certain parts of the face, should never touch wines or liquors. A Practical Supper Diet Here is an excellent diet, heartily recom- mended by a physician as a remedy for a sallow complexion. It should be taken just before going to bed. The first night a pared apple, well salted, and a salt biscuit should be eaten; the next, an onion with salt and the biscuit; and the third night, the juice of one orange and half a lemon, again accompanied by the salt biscuit. On the fourth night, begin again with the apple, and if it is impossible to take the onion, alternate with the apple, the orange and lemon juice. A biscuit which is excellent for the system generally and consequently for the complexion, is made according to the following recipe. It is to be eaten for breakfast and the last thing at night, and instead of bread at meals. Complexion Biscuit Add to two cupfuls of bran, one cupful of flour, and one teaspoonful of soda, together with one and one-half cupfuls of sour milk, one-quarter cupful of butter and three table- spoonfuls of molasses or treacle. Stir all to- gether thoroughly, roll into a thin dough and cut into biscuits. Bake until slightly brown. The simpler your food, the healthier you will be, and the more green vegetables, fruits, brown ‘bread and well cooked cereals you include in your meals, the better for your appearance. Economize in the matter of bulk, but do not economize in quality. Each one of us must study the diet question for herself. It is absolutely an individual matter. After a certain age, if we have not solved it to the satisfaction of our own health and comfort, we have failed in one of the prin- cipal things which make for our happiness. Harper’s Bazar

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| ete Ol ne For September, 1913 Paris Fashions in Transit EpITor’s NoTE.—Paris, as the cultured Parisienne or the American resident knows it, is a very different pees from the Paris of the American tourist, and the fashions adopted by the the modes displayed by the mannikins in the dressmaking establishments. Our correspondent knows Paris from the inside; she lunches and takes tea with women in the highest social circles, and she tells of the styles as these women have accepted them. AS A chic early Fall costume is shown in the navy blue satin model with purple satin trimmings. The clever arrangement of a black and white girdle is revealed by the cut of the bolero jacket. The narrow belt of old red brocade lends the colour note to the black and white evening gown. The draping of the black satin — the underskirt of lace and the plaited black net tunic is very effective. During the autumn days a frock of navy blue taffeta is both comfortable and smart. The red sash matches the buttons and the 37 former differ quite as widely from ee» wool embroidery on the blouse. A large lace butterfly is poised in the front of the black velvet hat. For tea in the afternoon the dark green figured taffeta gown offers a delightful change. The Zouave skirt is completed by a sash of vivid green satin which is separated from the lace trim- mings of the blouse by a narrow belt of mauve brocade. The jaunty flare of the coat in this Havana brown velours de laine costume marks it as one of the new models. A girdle of dull red silk, finished with silver tassels, matches the revers of the coat. (See article on page 38)

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Paris Fashions in Transit Illustrated by L. C. Freeman FTER practically belonging to stran- gers and tourists for two months, Paris for a brief space regains some- thing of its normal appearance when many well-known people, passing from sea shore to mountain resorts, stop in town for a , little shopping and freshening of ‘wardrobes which have become depleted during the gay weeks at Dinard, Trouville, and other watering places. There is a charm about these informal and often accidental meetings, in the shops, at the Ritz, or in the Bois, when we are enjoying the novelty of seeing Paris as visitors—and a Paris so different from the one we know! It is like catching a friend en deshabille just waking from a nap. No one is ready to think seriously yet of Autumn and winter clothes, or to pass judg- ments upon the models prepared. It will be still some weeks before the Parisienne will make glad or sorry the heart of the designer by approving or rejecting the results of his labor. For it is here that the French woman differs from her sisters: she selects what pleases her and what suits her, and not what she is told is the fashion. And since she has natural good taste her clothes are not designed without regard to whether she will be pleased. Good taste in dress, as in other things, puts a ban on rude shocks or things that are startling or conspicuous. The Silhouette Changes Gradually A few seasons ago the Paris dressmakers had to admit that they had made a mistake in the attempt to introduce certain new lines which changed entirely the familiar silhouette. Ma- dame coolly refused to order any of the new models and the dressmakers wrung their hands and faced big losses. The very lines which they attempted to introduce too suddenly are worn to-day, but we came to them gradually. On this same principle let the uninitiated beware of reports that full skirts will be worn this winter. Undoubtedly, skirts are fuller than they were a year ago, they have been gradually growing so. But the widening will continue to be gradual and harmonious. It is many months since the well dressed Paris- iennes discarded the straight, very tight skirt. And I assure you she has never worn a skirt slashed open to the knee. “Of course we fill in the opening when we make this model up for ladies,’ explains the vendeuse as the man- nikin parades in a model open any distance above the ankle. ‘‘She who runs may read”— not that any of us is able to run in any of the usual costumes of the day! For the fullness in skirts is at the hips and not at the foot. Among the new models will be found many charming skirts, the lines of which differ but slightly from those to which we are already accustomed. And these are the ones which will probably meet with most favor among us here. We leave extremes and eccentricities to outsiders and the class of women whom we only see from a distance. a The Lure of the New Material Any lack of extravagance in design is made up in the extravagance of material, and the fabrics displayed this season surpass anything hitherto brought out, both in beautiful effects and in price as well. For evening gowns, the metal nets are particularly beautiful. A new material called duvetyn promises to supplant the cotton velvets so popular for the past two years, but chiffon velvet will still be used for gowns and no doubt will be chosen by many because there never has been a material as becoming, especially when made up, as at present, with the soft real laces. Taffetas are becoming more and more popu- lar, and I am showing two charming costumes made of this silk, suitable for the mild Septem- ber days. One, in a very dark green figured taffetas, has the skirt made on the lines of the Zouave skirt, which is without doubt the one most liked at present. A very vivid green sash crosses in front and is tied low behind. Around the waist is a mauve velvet ribbon sup- plying the charming colour combination which is the characteristic of all the newest models. The hat worn with this costume has a close round crown of black velvet and an upstanding brim of wired Chantilly lace. A black Para- dise at the left side has its stem wound tightly with black velvet. The second figure shows a plain navy blue taffeta costume with a double skirt. It has a red sash and buttons which match the embroid- ery on the blouse. The hat on this figure is one of the very newest shapes, with a flat low crown of velvet and black lace brim. A huge lace butterfly, with center and edges of velvet, ornaments the front. Lace Newer Than Tulle Tulle has had an enormous vogue all sum- mer, but it is now giving way to lace for both hats and gowns. For hats, Chantilly lace chiefly is used and while equally soft and be- coming it is more durable than tulle. Anyone who may possess among the family heirlooms one of the old, three-cornered lace shawls that our grandmothers wore is the envy of all her less fortunate sisters, for these shawls lend themselves to fhe very newest creations in evening gowns. The point of the shawl is brought up through the girdle in the back, and the two ends are draped around and attached at either side of the waist line in front, thus forming paniers which leave the hips plain. Americans at the Embassy Ball Owing to the present craze for dancing, evening gowns among the younger set are uni- versally short. This fact was emphasized at the last ball given in the American Embassy where were displayed the creations of all the leading Paris couturiéres, and all of what Prince Henry of Prussia called the “Crowned Heads of America,” not to speak of those of other lands. The Ambassadress wore one of Worth’s most beautiful creations in white. Mrs. Crawford Hill was also in white. Her gown was made by Callot and on her Greek- like head she wore a broad band of diamonds of exquisite design. But perhaps the most not- able coronet in the room was worn by Mrs. Herman Harjes, who was the beautiful Miss Berwind of Philadelphia. Where Good Taste Is Demanded The volant skirt which was brought out in April gains in favor. Some of the most lovely frocks are made of Pompadour silk with wide lace ruffles. It cannot be denied that we have become accustomed to seeing gowns worn in the afternoon which formerly would have been considered more suitable for evening wear, but this again calls for a display of good taste and discretion. They are certainly ravishingly charming, these dainty diaphanous concoctions of tulle and lace, with sleeves well above the elbow and quite décolletée, but it must not be forgotten, since these frocks originated in Paris, that conditions differ here from those in American cities, and we do not walk the streets or enter street cars in transparent décolletée gowns or blouses. The second sketch shows a beautiful black and white gown made by Weeks. The black satin which composes the lower part of the skirt is drawn up over the ruffles of white lace and plaited black net, and passes under the belt. The transparent bodice is of white net with a shaped lace piece. The one touch of colour is the ribbon of old red brocade on the bodice. 38 Tailor-Made with New Touches For tailor-made suits the coats are from 32 to 38 inches long. Many skirts are draped, but for suits of the heavier materials, which are used to such a great extent, the double or triple effect is more general in skirts. Like last year, many coats have fur collars attached, and quite the newest touch is fur buttons in place of the usual bone or pearl. In fact, the elaborate buttons used this season will add considerably to the price of a costume. The tops of many of the tailor skirts are finished with silk girdles, or sashes which tie in front, or behind, or at one side. Many fancy vests are made to wear with upen coats, but they have already been taken up too exten- sively by the general public to remain in much favour with the exclusive houses. It is more original to have some fetching arrange- ment of sash or girdle to give a pretty finish to an open coat. A good sample of this is shown in the third sketch. This is a simple navy blue satin skirt and bolero jacket, made charmingly chic with facings of purple satin. The skirt is faced up as far as the knees and a slight pointed opening in front gives a glimpse of the purple. A tuck half way down the skirt lends the effect of a double skirt. A wide black and white striped ribbon is used for the girdle arrange- ment referred to, touches of the same appear- ing on the cuffs. These light-weight suits are particularly practical for early Autumn days when we are apt to have sudden contrasts of heat and cold, and they give an excellent oppor- tunity for the use of fox skins, the most suc- cessful novelties of this season. Furs and New Ways of Wearing Them The entire animal is adapted for these new neck pieces, and is used flat, witha lining of satin or chiffon. The most fashionable fur is red fox. Not every woman can risk the effect of this colour against her hair and com- plexion, but such is the force of custom that the fact of its being unbecoming will be over- looked in many cases. The skins are worn either across the shoulders with the head and tail falling in front, as in the sketch, or just the opposite, with the head and tail falling behind, as one prefers. Master Fox must feel proud of his promotion from a rug under your feet to his present place of favour, for, save for the fine mounting, in appearance he has changed not at all from the one to the other. For evening wear, fox skins dyed in the most extraordinary colours are being displayed, yel- low and orange and a sort of magenta taking the lead. In some cases a red and a white animal are arranged together; in others, the skin is cut and made up with ribbons and chiffon ruffles. Mufis to match are larger than ever and they also open flat and have many tails added. The Intermediate Suit There seems to be a real craze for yellow in all its tones. Tobacco, khaki and Havana are the most popular colours for tailor suits, with wine and prune as second favourites. Navy blue never really goes out and is always worn. The fourth sketch shows one of the newest tailor suits. The material is a rich velours de laine in Havana brown, with dull red silk revers. There is a girdle on the skirt of the same silk finished with a little silver cord and tassels at the back. The skirt is just comfort- ably wide for walking and is cut up in a point behind in much the same way that the skirt in the third sketch is slashed in front. The double skirt part points down in the back and the coat also falls in a long point behind, with an inverted box-plait directly in the middle, giving a slight outward swing to the coat from the waist down. I notice that many of the smartest coats have this new line. Harper’s Bazar

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Harper’s Bazar Patterns The new HARPER’S BAZAR PATTERNS are made by a simple method that reproduces faithfully the new lines of the most exclusive models and gives to the home-made frock the chic and distinction of an imported costume. HARPER’S BAZAR PATTERNS are easy to follow because direc- tions are clearly stamped on each piece, and the trimmings and linings are differentiated by coloured paper—the trimmings in violet and the lin- ings in tan. In addition, with each pattern there is a picture and the necessary information as to material requirements. Price List _ The price of each pattern shown on this page is 50 cents. The patterns are cut in sizes 34 to 40-inch bust measurement and 22 to 28-inch waist measurement. Patterns cut to measurements of the individual cost $2.00 for a waist, skirt or jacket, and $1.50 for lingerie. Measurement blanks will be furnished on request. Patterns will be cut for any model shown in the magazine at the rate given for cut-to-measure patterns. These patterns will be cut to the measure- ments of the individual. No. 1000, a set of 12 patterns for the baby, sells for 50 cents. How to Order Patterns Please order all patterns by number and state size desired. Send remittance with order to PATTERN DEPARTMENT, HARPER’S BAZAR 119 West 4oth Street New York City No. 1019-1020. A good model for a wool or silk material. The over skirt is cut in one-piece, seamed over the left side, and attached to the under- skirt. The coat has wide sash, deep, square collar, and low shoulder seam. uy. EE No. 1021. Simple blouse of chiffon, silk, or linen. The fronts are plaited into epaulettes. fichu and enlarged arm-size are new features. the waist-line held in by cording. For September, 1913 No. 1023. Cache- corset with elaborate lace trimmings and rib- bon shoulder straps. No. 1024. Drawers fastening in the front and with the fulness at the knee held in by clusters of tucks and a shaped band. No. 1026. kimono waist has lets. The A dancing frock with a two-piece skirt of charmeuse and a full, corded tunic fin- ished with a deep, plaited frill. The plaited peplum a double lace frill, and lace wrist- No. 1027-1028. The intermediate silk gown for the street. The skirt has a plaited front and back panel outlined with buttons and a plaited tunic. The waist has set-in sleeves, net fichu, and wrist frills. === = Lee ae wre 3 i APD —— Soni No. 1029-1030. A silk frock with the fulness of the skirt folded into the waist belt and allowed ‘* , } ; No. 1025. Waistcoat of satin which may be to form draperies at the sides. Fastens at the left No. 1022. One-piece skirt with the fulness at worn as a jacket or as ablouse. Thefulnessisgath- side of the front. The revers, collar, surplice vest, ered into a belt at the sides and in the back. and cuffs are of white net with narrow net frilling. 39

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Clothes for th Photograph by Arnold Muller No. 1030 Two picturesque frocks to be developed in light-coloured, The embroidery is carried out in vari-coloured worsteds. Patterns in 4, 6, and 8-year sizes. No. 1031 No. 1030—No0. 1031. soft woolen materials. e Kiddies No. 1032 No. 1032. A Kate Green- away dress in cloth or silk. The deep yoke and sleeves are cut in one piece, and the skirt is box plaited. A_ collar of lace or hemstitched organdy may be added. Patterns cut in 4, 6, and 8-year sizes. CHILDREN’S PATTERNS patterns for grown-ups. tiated by coloured paper—the trimmings in violet and the linings in tan. PRICE LIST The price of each pattern shown on this page is 50 cents. in other sizes than those designated may be ordered cut to the measurements of the individual. No, 1000, a set of twelve patterns for the baby, sells for 50 cents, Please order all patterns by number and state size desired. Send remittance with order to PATTERN DEPARTMENT, HARPER’S BAZAR The HARPER’S BAZAR PATTERNS for CHILDREN are cut by the same method as that followed in the The directions are clearly stamped on each piece, and the trimmings and linings are differen- The patterns are sold in three sizes as stated in the descriptions. The price is $1.50 each. 119 West 40th Street, New York City Patterns i oes No. 1034 No. 1035 No. 1036 No. 1034. A good model No. 1035. . This simple No. 1036. The kimono for the utility coat of a frock may be fashioned from dress can be varied in several heavy, rough-faced material. The shaped side pieces add a novel, yet simple, trim- ming, and the revers, to be buttoned when desired, are new. The collar and cuffs are of velvet. Patterns to be cut in 4, 6, and 8-year sizes. silk, muslin, or a soft woolen material. Instead of smock- ing, the fulness is shirred and the shirring feather-stitched in coloured silk. Feather- stitching adds a dainty finish to the collar and cuffs. Patterns cut in 1, 2, and 4-year sizes. ways to hide its identity. An embroidered yoke and cuffs will add effective decoration to a cotton or cloth dress, and the plait at either side affords a pleasing change. A guimpe is sold with this pattern. Patterns cut in 4, 6, and 3-year sizes. 40 No. 1037 No. 1037. This model is particularly charming in silk or velvet as the “dress-up” coat. The lower part is shirred on three cords, and the same idea is repeated on thesleeves. The garment fastens at the side with three covered but- tons, and a collar of the _ma- terial or lace may be added. Patterns cut in 2, 4, and 6-year sizes. No. 1033 No. 1033. A_ pretty model for a*simple chiffon or mull dancing frock. A band of flowered material is used as trimming on the skirt, and the raised waist line is marked by a black velvet sash. The guimpe may be of a contrasting ma- terial. Patterns cut in 6, 8, and 10-year sizes. No. 1038 No. 1038. A good-looking school costume on the lines of the Russian blouse may be de- veloped in navy blue serge combined with a plaid. Sucha costume can be worn asa dress orasa coat and skirt suit. The skirt of the plaid is plaited, and the blouse of the serge is trimmed with a front panel, collar, cuffs, and belt of the plaid material. Patterns cut in 8, 10, and 12-year sizes. Harper’s Bazar

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Frills and furbelows from Bonwit, Teller. The folded taffeta belt in various bright colours with a dull silver buckle can be bought for $3.75. French shadow lace jabot and sells for $8.50. The plaited white net ruche is completed with an ecru A fichu of white net edged with Valenciennes lace, and with embroidered batiste revers, costs $7.95. A new style, collapsible, week-end bag with fittings of French ivory. tition which can be placed on the dressing table. ranging in price from $18.00 to $42.00. Wanamaker is showing as one of the early fall styles a white crepe de Chine blouse with collar and cuffs of cerise satin and a frilling of lace extending to the belt. Price $7.50. The same shop is, selling for $5.00 an effective black panne velvet hat with narrow band bow, flower rosette, and facing of Cerise satin. For September, 1913 One of the prettiest lingerie blouses sold by Wanamaker is fashioned from white batiste with a plaited fichu. The hemstitch- ing and frills add a dainty finish and make the waist a bargain at $4.50. The hat of black velvet has a soft black satin crown, a drape of yellow moire ribbon with picot edges, and shaded yellow wings, and sells for $7.00. The Bazar’s Bazar Why not give the HARPER’S BAZAR PER- SONAL SHOPPING SERVICE the opportunity of shopping for you> Expert shoppers, women of good taste and discrimination, are always ready to buy for you any desired article, whether men- tioned in the magazine or not, without any charge to you. Names of shops where articles may be purchased will be furnished upon request. A prospectus, explaining the PERSONAL SHOP- PING SERVICE, will be sent on receipt of letter addressed to HARPER’S BAZAR PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE, 119 West 40th Street, These attractive Art Nouveau boxes in various colourings and shapes are used by Wanamaker’s as cases for perfumes, powders and other toilet essentials, and add much charm to any gift of this kind. George Bernard is offering for $45.00 a charming reseda green crepe de Chine gown with a gold brocaded satin girdle and trim- mings of gold lace mounted over black net. The hat for $35.00 is of black velvet with gourah and paradise mount. There are nineteen of these toilet articles, the majority of which are attached to a removable par- The bags come in different sizes, The fall suit wil be incomplete with- out one of these black taffeta bags with raised figures in blue, moire handles with cut steel chip slides, and a lining of cream bengaline with shirred pockets for the mirror and powder puff. A school coat to please the youngster is fashioned by Beebe & Shaddle from blue or brown serge with a deep, shaped yoke, box-plaits in front and in back, and a wide belt. The Phipps hat of green velour has a scarf of vivid plaid with fringed ends, and sells for $12.00. This combination vanity case and purse comes in the various leathers and can be bought for $4.50. It is fitted with mirror, powder puff, and pocket for stamps or subway tickets. Y the end of August, summer is on the wane and the women who have been frivol- ing in the country and by the sea are beginning to think of new hats and frocks, coats and accessories, that make up the autumn wardrobe. The shops are gay with the offerings of the ingenious manufacturers and the siren call is sounding in the ears of the shoppers. It is at this season of the year that a woman feels the shabbiest, and her first thought, therefore, is to secure a good-looking street costume. As a rule, she desires to pick up a ready-made suit for a moderate price; a costume with the hallmarks of the coming season, yet not as elaborate nor as expensive as she will buy later when the modes have become fixed. For the reasonable sum of $32.50, it is possible to buy a good-looking suit of blue or black diagonal serge. The cut is conservative and the finish, including the braid-bound edges, is tailored as in the custom-made clothes at twice the price. If one wishes a more dressy costume—a frock appropriate for the theatre during the autumn months—a soft, graceful model in reseda green crepe de Chine can be bought for $45.00. There is a girdle of gold brocaded satin and a collar of gold lace mounted over black net. (Continued on page 42) 41

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The Bazar’s Bazar (Continued from page 41) A well-cut coat will cover a multitude of omissions, and an exceedingly good- looking one in wool plush may be bought for $45.00. The belt drawn through the buckle in the back adds a novel touch, and the yoke and raglan sleeves are both up-to-the-minute fea- tures. Wool plush is one of the new, soft, rough face materials which are delightfully warm and comfortable with- out being weighty, and the tan, blue, black, and white shades are used for this model. The Appeal of the Corsage Bouquet Despite the fact that corsage bouquets have outgrown their novelty, their appeal is too potent to be lightly cast aside. And of the many varieties, the preserved flowers, which actually smell, look, and feel like the blossoms from Nature’s garden, are the most appealing. A cluster of “sweetheart” buds, consisting of two blush pink roses and an exquisite tea rose, can be purchased in a hand-painted box for $2.50. A smaller bouquet—on the order of the time-honoured bouton- niere—of moss roses in va- riegated, soft, pastel colour- ings, sells in a hand-painted box with a gift-card bearing an appropriate sentiment, for $1.50. Pansies, the gar- denia, the Bohemian valley roses, and the dahlias, are sold in similar encasements and make charming bridge prizes or luncheon favours. The Kiddie’s Coat and Hat One will not err in the selection of the practical school hat for the youngster shown on page 41. It is of soft green velour and its only trimming is a scarf of vivid plaid with fringed ends. The price is $12.00. blue duvetyn. A practical intermediate suit in navy blue or black diagonal serge with the edges bound by black braid can be bought at Gim- bel’s for $32.50. he black velvet hat has one of the new lace collar effects in black net lace and a black lace butterfly in the front, and sells for $14.50. A simple and serviceable coat for the young girl may be ordered in almost any cloth, though the plain and diagonal serges in blue or tan are suggested. At the same shop the usual chambray romper is replaced by the plain, cool Japanese crepe in an adorable shade of blue. White wash material is used for the small collar and the opening at the neck which is laced together by white The belt drawn through a CTY. buckle in the back distinguishes this wool plush coat sold by Franklin Simon for $45.00. The raglan sleeves and yoke in the iront are new features of these coats, which come in white, tan, blue, and black. Burgesser trotteur hat of black velvet with facing and drape of silk soutache. Mothers buy these rom- pers by the half-dozen for $3.50 to $5.00 a suit. Novelties in Handkerchiefs Handblocking is used on the new handkerchiefs in linen and batiste, often The silk sweater in white, oyster white, gray, blue, or lavender, may be bought at Altman’s for $18.50 without the sash, and for $22.50 with the sash in a contrasting col- our if desired. The Burgesser black velour hat has a vermillion grosgrain drape caught on the brim by a Persian fantasy. outlined by embroid- From France come very sheer linens, striped or crossbarred finely in colour, with wide coloured hems and with names written in embroidery across the corner or enclosed in circles. Monograms are enclosed in plain circles and initials in ovals, embroidered the long way across the corner. A kerchief of irresistible daintiness is white linen with two blocked lilac bands, each one quarter of an inch wide. Of the lesser priced handkerchiefs, one which supplies a fashionable spot of colour in a suit pocket, has a rather large, blocked square in one corner, from which lines of the colour, an eighth of an inch apart, extend around the handkerchief. This is 50 cents and may be had in all the handkerchief colours. Glove Handkerchiefs Glove handkerchiefs pretend to be no more than the carriers of exquisite and expensive scents. They are limited to an eight-inch square, which accounts for their almost infinitesimal borders of colour and scallops. Perhaps the prettiest handkerchief “in little” is that with the cut hem. The sheerest of white linen is lapped back, cut and finished by hand with a tiny perforation stitch. Price, $2. Inser- tion of baby cluny is run just inside the coral hem of one handkerchief which is priced $1.50. Excellent linen may be had in a glove handkerchief with a small Madeira hand-scallop for 25 cents; with a tiny picot scallop for 35 cents; and with an extremely narrow border of rose or blue, folded and run by hand, unhemstitched, for 35 cents. 4 Borrowed Scenes (Continued from page 14) Which Is Explained by the Maid The ragged man had reached us, where I stood talking to Henrietta by the stile. I will not try to write his conversation as he said it, because I have observed that the master never condescends to dialect but prefers by a word introduced here and there to show the fashion of a man’s speech. I will only say that the man from the dingle spoke as did the Anglo-Saxons who were wont, as is clearly shown by the venerable Bede, to call their leaders ’Enjist and ’Orsa, two words which in their proper meaning signify a horse and a mare. “What did he hit you for?” asked the man from the dingle. He was ex- ceedingly ragged, with a powerful frame, a lean brown face, and an oaken cudgel in his hand. His voice was very hoarse and rough, as is the case with those who live in the open air. “The bloke hit you,”’ said he. “What did the bloke hit you for?” ‘‘He asked him to,” said Henrietta. “* Asked him to—asked him what?” “Why, he asked him to hit him. Gave him a thick un to do it.” Whose Husband Appears The ragged man seemed surprised. “See here, governor,” said he. “If you're collectin’ I could let you have one half-price.” ““He took me unawares,” said I. ““What else would the bloke do when you bashed his hat?’ said the maiden from the dingle. By this time I was able to straighten myself up by the aid of the oaken bar which formed the top of the stile. Hav- ing quoted a few lines of the Chinese poet Lo-tun-an to the effect that however hard a knock might be it might always conceivably be harder, I looked about for my coat but could by no means find it. “Henrietta,” I said, “‘what have you done with my coat?” “Look here, gov’nor,” said the man from the dingle, “not so much Hen- rietta if it’s the same to you. This woman’s my wife. Who are you to call her Henrietta?” I assured the man from the dingle that I had meant no disrespect to his wife. “I had thought she was a moit,” said I, “‘but the Ria of a Romany chal is always sacred to me.” “Clean balmy,” said the woman. “Some other day,” said I, “I may visit you in your camp in the dingle and read you the master’s book about the Romanys.” He Says She’s No Gypsy ““What’s Romanys?” asked the man. Myself.—Romanys are gipsies. The Man.—We ain’t gipsies. Myself.—What are you then? The Man.—We are hoppers. Myself (to Henrietta)—Then how did you understand all I have said to you about gipsies? Henrietta.—I didn’t. I again asked for my coat, but it was clear now that before offering to fight the florid-faced man with the mole over his left eyebrow I must have hung my coat upon the splash board of his van. I therefore recited a verse from Feri- deddin-Atar, the Persian poet, which signifies that it is more important to preserve your skin than your clothes, and bidding farewell to the man from the dingle and his wife I returned into the old English village of Swinehurst where I was able to buy a second-hand coat which enabled me to make my way to the station whence I should start for London. I could not but remark with some surprise that I was followed to the station by many of the villagers, together with the man with the shiny coat, and that other, the strange man, he who had slunk behind the clock-case. And the Gaping Crowd Keep eir Distance From time to time I turned and ap- proached them hoping to fall into con- versation with them, but as I did so they would break and hasten down the road. Only the village constable came on and he walked by my side and listened while I told him the history of Hunyadi Janos and the events which occurred during the wars between that Hero, known also as Corvinus or the crow-like, and Mahommed the second, he who captured Constantinople, better known as Byzantium before the Christian epch. Together with the constable I entered the station and seating myself in a car- riage I took paper from my pocket and I began to write upon the paper all that had occurred to me in order that I might show that it was not easy in these days to follow the example of the master. As I wrote I heard the Constable talk to the station master, a stout middle-sized man with a red neck-tie, and tell him of my own adventures in the old English village of Swinehurst. “He is a gentleman, too,” said the Constable, “and I doubt not that he lives in a big house in London town.” “A very big house if every man had his rights,”’ said the station-master, and waving his hand he signalled that the train should proceed. Paradise (Continued from page 17) “The Serpent is always a woman,” He smiled indulgently. “You persist in jesting!’’ she frowned. “Not at all. To-day the Serpent is my wile.” “Tt is unbelievable; I never dreamed!” She flung the rose away. “‘T have been looking for you always,” he spoke with quiet persistence. “T too have looked, in vain, for you,” she did not smile. “TIT am fond of you,” his hands held hers and he did smile with the triumph of approaching victory. “Then it is a jest, the Serpent?” her lips parted as she relaxed toward him. He shook his head. “ Dear little child, it is no jest; the Serpent is near us now.” She put away his hands. At the gate his arms enfolded her again; prisoned the frail sweet whole of her, and held her, mouth to mouth, close. Then, softly, behind the trellis of the roses, they heard the voice of Madame the Serpent. It said: “But hush, mon ami. My husband amuses himself with the little girl next door; she comes home from her convent on Saturdays.’ ’ And the voice of him who accompanied Madame the Serpent answered: “That is excellent; let him remain occupied while you and I are here in Paradise.” And the kisses of Madame the Serpent and of the man who was beside her could be heard, soft, sibilant, long-enduring. Then, such is the contradictory nature of man, the husband of Madame the Serpent loosed his hold of the girl from the convent, and sprang behind the rose trellis into the Paradise of Madame the Serpent. And such is the bitterness of fate, when the volcanic force of him burst into flame it was expended in choking the man who had been the companion of Madame the Serpent, his wife, leaving nothing for the little girl from the convent but the ashes of a memory. In Defiance of Theatrical Tradition (Continued from Page 27) Cavallini is a woman of thirty or thereabouts, worldly to her fingertips, yet capable of sounding the depths of passion as only a Latin nature can. Her gown of black velvet plain and unre- lieved intensifies the impression of Emo- tion, personality and maturity—all indi- cated in this costume. Had Cavallini been a girl of twenty I should not have used black velvet. There is a marked difference between women at these two ages, no matter how youthful they may look in real life, and this difference must be made apparent on the stage by costing. In her last scene with the clergyman, Cavallini has to be alluring, both alluring and tragic, so she changes from the white and black costume to a rose silk boudoir robe that symbolizes these characteristics. In real life it may be possible for oneto be tragic in a simple white muslin, but on the stage tragedy should be garbed with mature dignity. Many stage managers to-day hold that drawing-room standards for gowns and exaggerated stage settings make for suc- (Continued on page 45) Harper’s Bazar

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os oO oO —_— Prreor A OG ao The Gilded Youth of London (Continued from page 12) small in quantity and engaging in your. ye oe thing which the gilded youth is supposed to do and does not do, is amble in the serious sense of the word. He has generally passed beyond the gilded age before he joins any of the few clubs in London where the play is anything like high; and his racing, if he does any at all, is generally a pretty economical a hat then does he do, and how does he live? Well, you might accompany him in London throughout a long June day, and find yourself engaged in very innocent occupations. The gilded youth used to be either strenuous or languid. Just at present the fashion is rather for a subtle combination of both. He does not ride in the Park in the morning; that is a tame amusement, and he leaves horses for winter and hunting. But not im- probably he begins the day (if he has not been at a dance the night before) with an early game of tennis, either at a club, or on the lawns of some hospitable London mansion; and after bathing and dressing sallies forth (that is the proper word) at about twelve o’clock and strolls to the particular club where his own set happens at that time to be foregathered. There, if he be of a serious turn, he makes an attempt to grapple with the news- papers. His Day is a Full,One The gilded youth is almost certainly going out to lunch—possibly to a party at the Ritz or the Berkeley; and he will remain behind with his attractive hostess when the others have gone, in order to receive his daily dose of petting from adroit hands. After luncheon our friend probably goes “to see something;” it may be a horse at Tattersall’s, it may be a motor car, it may be a picture show for which there is a craze; it may be a cos- tume for a fancy dress ball; it may even be apiece of old furniture, for, strange to say, even the gilded youth has caught the craze for antique things, and feels it to be a part of his duty to wax enthusiastic over some article, the beauty and value of which has been revealed to him by some clever West-End furniture or picture- faker. After this he may go out to tea—but it will not merely be to tea, but to a gath- ering at some hospitable house—one or two in Grosvenor Square—where a five o'clock dance is modestly disguised under the title of ‘“‘“dancing class.” Or, if he is not dancing, he will perhaps repair to one of his clubs and have a modest game of Bridge; although even Auction Bridge is as a rule either too dull, or makes too exacting a call on the mental energies of the average gilded youth. Quite possibly he goes home at this hour to the paternal mansion, where he lives in com- plete independence, and says “How do you do?” to his mother and sisters. He may even, if he be very strenuous, repair to a club and have a short game of squash racquets or tennis. And His Evening Too Of course he dines out; the gilded youth would be very much shocked if he had to provide his own dinner, and scared out of his wits if he had to eat it in solitude. After dinner he is taken to a theatre, and after the theatre probably to supper, although I believe that the fashion of going to supper after the theatre is de- clining among the really gilded social world. There is sure to be a dance somewhere, and there the gilded youth will disport himself until two or three in the morning when, if he be still awake, he may repair to one or other of the de- lightful little cellar clubs in St. James’ Street, and among shining pewter and quaint copper, and before a_ wide kitchen fireplace, will regale himself with some of those delightful and in- digestible things which it is the glorious privilege of youth to be able to eat with impunity in the small hours of the morn- ing. Later He Travels Abroad In some such manner does the gilded youth spend his days in London between For September, 1913 May and July. But that crowded time represents only a quarter of the year. With the end of July the London season comes to an end. -By this time our youth is a little jaded, and he prob- ably devotes the month of August to a cure at some foreign Spa; and we should probably find him at Aix languidly gam- bling in a desultory way with five-franc pieces, and religiously taking his cure of waters and diet. Of course he is not alone. He is probably in the train of some charming woman of about forty. The gilded youth is almost always at- tached in this way to some attractive woman of the world who is sufficiently his senior and rangée to make his accom- panying her a matter of no importance or comment whatever. Their alliance, I would hasten to add, is a perfectly innocent one, founded upon mutual con- venience. And Then Goes to Scotland This pleasant duty over, our friend is free to take himself to Scotland and autumnal visits. He shoots occasionally, but by no means strenuously, partly because he is not a first-class shot, and partly because excess in anything is against the habit and mode of his kind. November finds him back in London to see the theatres and revisit the haunts of Piccadilly and Mayfair. December sees him back again in the country pursuing a series of visits punctu- ated by runs up to London. At this time he may put in an occasional few days hunting in Leicestershire; but not very much; for if he is really keen on hunting he disappears in winter from the ken of the non-hunting world and is seen no more of ordinary mortals until the rigours of frost and snow or the mild airs of Spring bring hunting to an end. But he will certainly be in Town in‘the early part of December for a few days to do his Christmas shopping. After Christmas he will make a prolonged stay in some country house, where he is noted for the simplicity of his life, and the untiring amiability with which he plays with the children. A Simple Tale of a Year Towards the end of January or Febru- ary thoughts of foreign travel begin to stir in the mind of the gilded youth. He begins to talk about needing some sun- shine, and as many of the gay migrants with whom he associates are already on the wing and beginning to congregate in gay plumaged chattering crowds on the coasts of the Mediterranean, he follows them there. Or he betakes him- self to Switzerland, and at Miirren or Chamounix or Adelboden he joins a party of young people of his own age, and in bobsleighing and ski-ing by day, and dancing by night he enjoys what is per- haps the most healthy and exhilarating fortnight of his year. There you have a year of his life pretty well accounted for. It is totally useless and quite harmless, and it affords him ample opportunities for becoming ac- quainted with his own small world, and for meeting the girl whom he will marry. The Orange Puppy (Continued from page 30) cost more than that. Then the awfulness of it all rose before her in its true and hideous proportions. Was there no way to aid him? She could look for ichneumon flies in the morning. And on the morning after that. And the next morning she would say good-bye. He felt her hand close on his convul- sively, and turned to encounter her flushed and determined face. “You like me, don’t you?” she said. “Yes.” After a moment he said: ““Yes—absolutely.” ““Do you like me enough to—to let me help you in your research work—to be patient enough to teach me a little until I catch up with you? . . . So we can go on together? ...I know I am pre- sumptuous—perhaps importunate—but I thought—somehow—if you did like me well enough—it would be—very agree- able—” like you enough—for anything. But you could not remain here—” “‘T don’t mean here.” “Where, then?” “Where?” She looked vaguely about her in the firelight. ‘Why, everywhere. Wherever you go to make your re- searches.” “T .would go to Ceylon if I could.” »“T also,” she said. He turned a little pale, looking at her in silence. She said calmly: ‘What would you do in Ceylon?” “Study the unknown life—histories of the rarer Ornithoptera.” She knew no more than a kitten what he meant. But she wanted to know, and, moreover, was perfectly capable of com- prehending. “Whatever you desire to study,’”’ she said, “would prove delightful to me. . . . If you want me. Do you?” “Want you!” Then he bit his lip. “Don’t you? Tell me frankly if you don’t. But I think, somehow, you would not make a mistake if you did want me. I really am intelligent—if you would teach me a little in the beginning.” He said: “What can I teach you, Cecil? Not the heavenly frankness that you already use so sweetly. Not the smiling and serene nobility which carries your head so daintily and so fearlessly. Not the calm purity of thought, nor the serene goodness of mind that has gra- ciously included a poor devil like me in your broad and generous sympathies—” “Please!” she faltered, flushing. ‘‘I am not what you say—though to hear you say such things is a great happiness —a pleasure—very intense—and won- derful—and new. But I am nothing, nothing—unless I should become use- ful to you.... I could amount to something—with you—” She checked herself; looked at him as though a trifle frightened. “Unless,” she added, with an effort, “you are in love with some- body else. I didn’t think of that. Are you?” “No,” he said. “Are you?” “Wa... I have never been in love This is the nearest I have come to it.” “Ana i” She smiled faintly. “Tf Ww ” “Oh, yes,” he said, calmly, “if we are to pass the balance of our existence in combined research, it would be rather | necessary for us to marry.” “Do you mind?” “On the contrary. Do you?” ““Not in the least.” He said, unsteadily: “If you rose up out of the silvery lagoon, just born from the starlight and the mist, I would take you.” “You—you are a poet, too,” she. fal- tered. “T’m only a man very, very deep in —love.” “In love! ... I thought—” “Ah, but you need think no more. | You know now, Cecil.” “Miami is not very far, is it?’’ she asked, as she sprang aboard the Orange Puppy. “Not very, dear.” “We could get a license immediately, couldn’t we?” “T think so.” “And then it will not take us very | long to get married, will it?” ““Not very.” “What a wonderful night!’”’ she mur- mured, looking up at the stars. She turned toward the shore. ‘What a wonderful place for a honeymoon!” Lying back against his knees, her eyes fixed dreamily on the stars, she murmured: “Stirrups will be surprised.” “What are you talking about down there all by yourself?” he whispered, bending over her. She looked up into his eyes. Suddenly her own filled; and she put up both arms, linking them around his neck. And so the Orange Puppy sailed away into the viewless, formless, starry mys- tery of all romance. 43 “I Like It” Most children do INSTANT POSTUM —the new food-drink. But the big fact is that chil- dren, as well as adults, can drink Instant Postum with fullest benefit. Little folks are commonly de- nied coffee, “because it hurts them.” The delicious mild, Java-like flavour of Instant Postum pleases all the family and no harm can result because it is made entirely of choice wheat and the juice of sugar-cane—pure and free from the coffee drug, caffeine, or any other harmful substance. No Boiling A level teaspoonful of Instant Postum in an ordinary cup of hot water dissolves instantly and makes it right for most persons. A big cup requires more and some people who like strong things put in a heaping spoonful and temper it with a large sup- ply of cream. Experiment until you know the amount that pleases your pal- ate and have it made that way in the future. Postum comes in two forms. Regular (must be boiled). Instant Postum doesn’t re- quire boiling, but is prepared instantly by stirring a level tea- spoonful in a cup of hot water. **There’s a Reason’”’ POSTUM

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Use the Home Electric Mas- sage Battery for 10 days to prove to you that it is worth more to you every week than the special low price for it now. money back if you are not more than delighted with its mar- velous powers for health and beauty. great opportunity to secure all the benefits of faradism at a * Beauty for You Electric Massage Be your own beauty masseuse. Give your- self the true charm of healthy beauty in the possession of a fresh, smooth, rosy skin, sparkling eyes and a luxuri- ant head of lustrous hair. Know the joys and powers Science has placed health, The magic power of Faradism is the great method Test the marvelous Marvelous !hegentle Aid to Health oor os erful and stimulating faradic elec- tricity as supplied by the Home Electric Massage Battery is a marvelous aid to the general health in many ways. 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The Latest Word in' P Fashions (Continued from page 16) “secret,”’ and, as you may have guessed, it concerns “furs,” and very seriously, | perhaps, for when a new idea catches on in Paris, whether it is natural or good or bad, matters not one jot, provided it pleases “La Parisienne.” Fox Skins Dyed to Match the Gowns The idea came to me the other day that as fox furs are dyed black and various shades of grey and brown, why should they not equally well be dyed purple or blue, or any queer shade to suit the material of the gown? So I consulted with my furrier, and he jumped at the idea joyously, and, in a week’s time, brought me fox skins dyed to every shade of purple, orange, grey, and brown, with quite beautiful results. The shad- ing of the fox skin lends itself well to the different tints. This new idea has immensely delighted “La Parisienne’ and the novelty of this autumn will be fur dyed to match the tint of the dress. I feel glad that I had the inspiration as far as I am con- cerned, as it will help me enormously in obtaining new effects of outline and colouring. However, they run things to death here, and instead of just keeping to my idea of dyeing the fox fur, they have started tinting mole skin, ermine, and even sable. This last, I think, is a Good Hair | The Duchess of Marlborough Recommends! Mrs MASONS eineeth HAIR TONIC This is the Hair Tonic used by Kate Seaton Mason, the noted English Hair a in treating the hairof the Vanderbilt family, Duchess of Marlborough, Mme. Melba andthe leading society women ‘ of New York, London and Paris, who testify to its superiority for thin, falling, weak, brittle, splitting and dead-looking, lusterless hair, Mrs. Mason’s Old English mistake, but perhaps that is only my idea. I saw quite lately at a very chic coun- try race meeting two well-known sisters dressed in tawny, orange brown wisps of draped broché material entwined (that is really the word to use where a stole of fur or scarf is used here) with tawny orange fox furs. The effect was truly astonishing, and I was delighted to see how quickly my idea is being taken up. I feel sure, however, that later on I shall have some rude shocks. The Last Word in the Autumn Mode I send you a photo of one of the very latest early autumn “three piece suits.” As you will see, the “outline” has not changed much from the summer one. The suit is of satinette brocade in two shades of dull Chinese blue. The queer little coatee is lined with dull leaf green taffeta, and trimmed with a wide band of fox fur dyed dull blue to match the brocade. The queer little hat is of the green taffeta. This is the very “last word” of the new autumn mode; what it may develop into, I cannot yet tell you. No Hope for the Fat and Middle-Aged Frocks and frills, and frills on frocks are other “last words.” But these are again only for the young and slim. I cannot yet give a word of comfort or hope to the fat or the middle-aged that they may be in the height of fashion and | yet not be ridiculous. But I am going to attend to this matter later and intend to invent some dresses with flowing | dignified lines and with ample stuff in them, and no “hitches” up in unexpected | places. | low as if for evening wear, and a little | cape of fur and lace with a high collar will be added when the fair lady is out walking or driving. This is a very | pretty and dainty idea. | I am sending you several photos of | different styles that I have been seeing | about Versailles recently. } ine Book Coupon / Western Merchandise & Supply Co., 326 West Madi St., Chicago, Ill. Gentlemen :—Without any obli- gation to me please send me free copy of your massage booklet and special price and all particulars of 10 days free trial on the Home Electric / Massage Battery. Address. . Au revoir till next month when I will in a position to let you still further o the secrets of the autumn fashions. Yours sincerely, LuciLE Durr GorDON. | be | int “‘T had known the old darkey for many years,” the Bishop said, “‘ but it was the | first time I had conducted a service Tom could attend. He was waiting for me at the vestry door, when church was over. “Well, Tom, how did you like the ser- vice?’ I asked. “*‘T liked yo’ sermon firs’ rate,’ Tom said, ‘but I wan’t sure ’bout what you calls de service, suh. | riz and fell with you every time!’ ” 44 | | es Hair Look Twice as Thick as It Really Is — Soft, Fluffy, Lustrous. This pure antiseptic shampoo, made from tonic, cleansing herbs is un- equalled to cleanse and invigorate the hair and scalp, remove dandruff, dust, excess oil, irritation, and to- gether with the Hair Tonic makes a complete treatment that insures perfect hair and scalp health. Hair Tonic, $1.00. Shampoo Cream, 25c a tube—enough for several shampoos. At Drug & Dept. Stores, or sent postpaid, THE PAXTON TOILET CO., Boston, Mass. Maternity Apparel At Wholesale Prices » Direct from Manufacturer We specialize in Maternity Apparel. Construeted on selentifie principles, absolutely self-adjusting to all periods and ordinary wear. Noextra eharge for making to measare. $3 to $25 Maternity Dresses, Coats, Skirts and Corsets. All popular materials. *) No. 1571. Maternity One-piece Dress of French Serge, no a 50 no fullness around waist or 102° Simple adjustment hips. } The most comfortable, graceful and practical Maternity Garment ever introduced. Send for our loose-leat catalogue B.9. 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Best prep- | A Game of Tag (Continued from Page 21) Edth’s letter; everything is in it, the whole thing settled one way or the other. And here I’ve been gadding about like a maniac.” He did not linger at all in New York, but hurried on to Boston, going straight from his steamer to the train, delighting his sister as well as impressing his father by this unusual expedition. He arrived in the early evening and found them both at home. Almost before their greet- ings were said, he drew Mollie to one side and demanded this letter. His sister stared at him. “Didn’t you get it at your hotel?” she asked. “I sent it there—mailed it last night.”” Then, at the expression of his face, she put her arms around him. “Oh, Billy!” she cried. ‘You poor boy! And I thought I was so clever to have it waiting in New York, so you'd get it without an hour’s delay. I never dreamed you'd rush home without going there.” Billy bowed his head. The whole world seemed topsy-turvy. Everything, he felt, and everyone, had conspired against him. “Well, never mind,” he said, ungra- ciously. ‘Let me have what mail there is. I suppose there’s some.” “Oh, yes, a heap.” Mollie went for it and brought the pile to his room, lingering lovingly with him while he opened the letters. He had glanced at all the addresses and postmarks before he opened any, but Mollie saw by his expression that he had not found what he wanted. He tore open the envelopes listlessly, dropping bills on the floor, half-reading and tossing aside personal letters and invitations. Then he rose. “You'll look after these, won’t you?” he asked. ‘‘ Just say ‘No’ to everything.” “But, Billy, where are you going?” “New York,” he announced, briefly, and started down-stairs. Mollie followed him, and while he was picking up his hat and hand-bag, hurriedly explained the situation to his father. That gentleman appeared in the hall just as his erratic son was opening the door leading to the street. “Hold on, Billy,” he called. “What nonsense is this? Can’t you bear with us one night at least?” “Sorry,” said poor Billy, stopping reluctantly; and he added vaguely something that sounded like “’portant ’sness.”” The elder Mr. Bailey uttered a sound expressing contempt. “Business!” he repeated, ironically. “Billy, you’re acting like a fool.” “T know it,” admitted Billy ignobly, and closed the door. When he reached his hotel in New York, he checked the buoyant greeting of the night clerk by demanding his mail. “Everything’s gone on to Boston, Mr. Bailey,’ said that unfortunate, blithely. ‘“‘We’ve forwarded all your mail since you went away.” His victim glared at him. “But the letter—the things that came yesterday, from Boston,” he stammered, “to catch me here. How about them?” “Sorry,” said the clerk. “But, you see, we didn’t know. No instructions, and we don’t stop to examine postmarks. So if anything came from Boston it went right back to Boston.” He smiled happily upon Bailey, and received one | of the surprises of his life. “Damn you!” said that young man, intensely. And retired to his own rooms. Rising in the morning, and glancing out of the windows as he moodily dressed, he was almost surprised to find that the portion of the outer world around his hotel seemed much as he had left it, little more than a month ago. It had been May then. It was now June, but there was the same deceptive tang in the air, the same mocking sunshine, and, yes, somewhere near by, an organ-man was making a street organ senilelybetrayits age. After breakfast he strolled out on the avenue, with some vague notion of look- ing up someone who knew something. His mind, dazed by recurrent disappoint- ments, was apparently failing him, too. And, then, as if Fate had wearied of him | as its toy, it tossed a favour his way. 45 Before he had gone three blocks from his | hotel, he met Mr. Horace White, unim- portant in himself, but great in the eyes of Billy Bailey as the uncle of Edith. The fervour of the greeting Mr. White received was so great that the phleg- matic gentleman was unable .to conceal his surprise. He was hurrying to his office, and had stopped reluctantly, obviously unable to see why he should waste precious business time in conver- saton with Billy Bailey. But after a sharp glance at the young man’s face, his expression changed. ‘‘What’s the matter with you, Billy?” he asked, kindly. ‘‘ You’re looking seedy.” Billy had entered upon the jocund day enveloped in a wretchedness so com- plete that it scorned concealment. It was from the depths of this that he answered. “‘T guess you know what’s the matter,” he muttered. The other looked at him again, thought- fully. Then he yielded to a rare impulse | of friendly sympathy. | “Edith, I suppose?” he asked. “*Of course.” Edith’s uncle glanced at his watch, | then snapped it shut with a movement of decision. He could give this young | man another minute. “Sorry,” he said. “But, since you feel that way, why don’t you two fix things up?” Billy uttered a laugh he intended should sound sardonic, but which merely sounded pitiful. “Takes two,” he explained. Then, with a wild impulse of hope, ‘Would | Edith Fe Horace White was a busy man, with | no time for beating about the bush.

“Would she?” he echoed. ‘You bet she would. Been eating her heart out | ever since the quarrel. Fix it up. Good-bye.” He was off, but Billy pursued him. “Here, wait a minute,” he begged. “Where can I write her?” The other paused. “Write the devil,” he exclaimed. “Go and see her. That’s the best way.” “But where, where?” cried poor Billy, grasping his elbow. ‘I’ve been chasing her and her mother all over Europe. | Where is she now?” Horace White turned and stared at | him. Then he seemed to understand. “Why, you young idiot,’ he said, almost affectionately, “it’s my daughter that’s in Europe with Mrs. White. At the last minute Edith wouldn’t go. She’s been right around the corner, for a month, ostensibly keeping house for me, but really waiting for you to call!” | In Defiance of Theatrical Tradition (Continued from Page 42)

cess. I take the opposite view. I ex- aggerate the costumes, make them effec- tive enough to carry over the footlights | and even go so far as to say that with per- fect costumes, the setting should be merely a background. I use solid colours that are vital and em- phatic, for the eye must follow the actor and the costume must stimulate the imagination of the audience. I am now at work on the costumes for a new production, “Prunella,” the delight- ful poetic fantasy with which the Little Theatre will open next month. “ Prunella ” is to be a picture in colour and line, but it is also a most charming love tale. Columbine and Pierrot appear as the original eighteenth century char- acters with sophistry of the present day. There is but one setting, a quaint coun- try garden with a cottage, and green | velvet hedges. The costumes supply | colour to the scene and verily it is riotously vivid. Our simple and flat background affords every opportunity for these. All the accessories, the musical instruments, the fans, the crewel bags, the embroidered aprons, are being made after my design, in my home in the country, for I feel that, being done under these conditions, they will harmonize with the poetic beauty of Mr. Barker’s fantasy. I use the beautiful fabrics as an artist uses his pigments. Only, in my art, in- stead of palette and canvas I paint with

exquisite silks and embroideries.

(From bronze in the private collections of . Post. Mighty Blows That “do things” in every walk of life nowadays are directed by the keen brains of men and women who have built themselves into fit condition to win. Today's food must repair the used-up cells in muscle, brain and nerve, caused by yesterday's work. If you care to be “quite fit” for tomorrow, see to it that the food contains the elements Nature requires to do her marvelous re- building. Grape-Nuts FOOD has proven itself a sturdy, well-balanced ration which meets every requirement. It has all the concentrated food-strength of whole wheat and malted barley— including the “vital salts” (stored in the outer coat of the grains) which are so often lacking in the ordi- nary diet. Grape-Nuts food is ready to eat direct from the package with cream; has a delicate winning flavour; and is easily and quickly digested—generally in about one hour. If the ability to earn money and position appeals to you, try Grape-Nuts. ‘‘There’s a Reason”

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At Summer Sales Prices Finished with blue or white Made for the present modes. dainty lace and ribbon Pink, Batiste, $1. Japan Silk, $2.50. Crepe-de-chine, $3.50. Embroidered monogram 50c_ extra. We have many other clever and different sug- gestions which may interest you. Write for particulars. MISS PRIEST’S 100 Boylston St, INDIVIDUAL SHOP Boston, Mass. Maternity Attire eel The Lane Bryant Maternity Dress ex- pands to fit yet retains grace of outline. Every model is of the most re- cent style, so varied in design that each wearer may be sup- plied with a dress to meet her individual preference. Prices range from $6.75 to $90 Suits, coats and wraps for outdoor wear, one-piece dresses, separate skirts and waists, negligees, maternity corsets, and underwear. Infants’ Layettes at varied prices. Send for New Fall Catalog “*A”’ 1654 (as illustrated) Maternity Dress of Nun's veiling inblack, navy or colors, pleated bodice and skirt, $11 75 ° lace ruff at neck. West 38th St. lane Bryant °° \e¥ yore J MARK YOUR LINEN WITH CASH’S WOVEN NAME-TAPES Required by Schools and Colleges Your full name in fast color thread can be woven into fine white cambric tape. $2.00 for 12 doz., $1.25 for 6 doz., 85c. for 3 doz. These markings more than save their cost by preventing laundry losses. They make a dainty, individual gift. Orders filled in a week through your dealer, or write for sam- ples and order blanks, direct to J. & J. CASH, Ltd., 625 Chestnut St. South Norwalk, Conn. Te MARK ’ FOR THE DISCRIMINATING De Luxe Quality at moderate cost Hana-engraved Copper-plate & Best Paper 100 Invitations in English Script - $10.00 Delivery prepaid.Sampies on request FALCON ENGRAVING CO. = 1212 Filbert Street, Philadelphia Herzberg’s IGRETTE Mint Arcade, Phila., Pa. HERON AIGRETTES branched in any desired quantity to a bunch Write for Illustrated Catalogue A ABSLAC Face Powper HE SUMMER’S SUN deals kindly with the complexion protected Users of this famous by LABLACHE. beautifier are conspicuously free from facial blemishes, always retaining their fresh attractiveness of youth. Delicate— fragrant—refined. Refuse Substitutes They may be dangerous, Flesh, White, Pink or Cream,50 cents a box of druggists or by mail. Overtwomillion boxes sold annually, Send 10c. for asampleboz. BEN. LEVY CO. French Perfumers, Dept. ¥ 125 Kingston St. Boston, Mass. UN PEU DE TOUT (Continued from Page 29) flock of sheep, but pick and choose and make the style themselves. This is both true and false. For it is quite evi- dent that the fashionable woman will never commit the unpardonable sin of wearing rounded hips and a wasp waist when the edict has gone forth that the hip shall be no more. One may, if she likes, be original in art, but in the more serious matter of the proper silhouette it is wise to conform to the | suggestions of the powers that be. “Ruffles,” says Redfern In a conversation held with Mr. Red- fern upon the all engrossing subject of fashions, we learn that the whole ten- dency of the coming styles may be epitomized by the one word “ruffles.” | “What have I to say about the fashions, madame?” he replied in answer to some of the most leading questions posed, “‘well, all I can say is ‘volants.’? From the hem of the skirt to the crown of the head, ruffles.” And what about the Louis XV epoch? Shall we be garbed as La Pompadour of old with voluminous skirts and powder and patches?” ‘No,’ he vouchsafed, “T do not think so. There is always a great deal of talk as introduction to the incoming season with regard to epochs and tendencies, and influences, but as a rule no one period is ever fully adopted. In any case, as you know, I am not one of those who approve of all women wear- ing all things. That there will be an undercurrent in favor of the Louis XV style, I think quite probable, but it will be Louis XV softened and modernized, most distinctly modernized. There will be, as I said, a profuse use of ruffles, but ruffles discreetly manipulated and draped so as not to alter the clinging line, or destroy the beauty of the sinuous sil- houette. But as for the genuine pompa- dour coming into vogue with the tight fitted waist and the pointed bodice, it is hardly credible; on the contrary, the uncorseted effect is almost sure to con- tinue. For the tailor made, the coats will be a little longer and loose backed, with vests—quantities of vests.” On the line of the waist he observed a discreet silence, saying that after all that wasa question of individual taste, and that in the matter of sleeves, collars, and belts one could do about as one wished. Costly Furs to Be Fashionable With regard to furs some rather in- teresting information was given. Since the recent law in Liberia prohibiting the sale or exportation of sable the price has doubled and tripled. High enough at all times, this almost prohibitive cost heralds it as the fashionable fur of the year, for the millionaire at all events. | Breitschwanz.also.is to be much worn, skirts probably still to be made of it, and fox dyed in brilliant shades, the smartest shades worn by the youthful Parisienne being orange or yellows. Muffs it appears are divided into two classes, large and small. The small ones are very small, mere hand coverings or turn down cuffs, while the large ones are larger than ever before if such a thing be possible, for at one time last season it surely seemed as if they must have reached their limit. The Vogue of Velvets The story of this year’s materials may be briefly told in the one word velvets. Wool velvets, silk velvets, embroidered velvets, printed velvets, and velvets bro- caded upon silks, satins, chiffons crepes. Among the wool velvets is a certain fabric known to fame by the name of “‘duvetyn,” which those of good memory may perchance recall was launched last spring by the house of Rodier. In the interim of six months it has, as it were, conquered the world, the tailor world at least, and is now at the top notch of success. In double weight for suits and hats, printed in stripes and flowers for vesting, brocaded for jackets and wraps, ribbed like a thin backed corduroy for gowns, it figures conspicuously in some fashion or another on most of the new | costumes for street or even evening wear. 46 Cloths With Rough Surfaces For the strictly tailor-made the same house is showing two smart new cloths with a rough woolly surface, “serge moufflonne” and “cote de mousse” or “mossy side,” which strongly resembles both in colour and in weave the close growing woodland moss. In addition, there are “gabardines,” covert cloths (some few), and “velours de laines” striped, checked and brocaded, all of | which though deserving of more than passing comment must be content with honourable mention as the materials with which Paquin, Chéruit, Callot, and others | of the big designers have provided them- selves for the coming openings. In fact it may be said that if the surface be shaggy and rough all things are in order, but the day of the smooth finished cloth “le drap classique, ” as it is called in the vernacular, has, at least for the moment, passed. New Stuffs for Vests For vestings (and vests are apparently to be much in evidence) there are Tyro- lienne striped duvetyns, very smart and very effective; duvetyns printed with wee tiny pots of flowers on plain back- grounds; a “bouclé”’ weave, much like that called interrupted velvet of last year, composed of inch wide ‘panels of the loosely knotted threads, separated by stripes of the plain, closely woven ground, upon which are embroidered stiff little art nouveau flowers. And be the background what colour it will, black, white, red, or green, these flowers are always and inevitably in black and white. This touch, by the way, of black in the brocades both of wool and silk, particu- larly in many of the newer and richer patterns, is a distinctive feature of the new fabrics. It is interesting in that it hints most broadly as to which direction sets the wind, for this was the keynote of the old time 18th century brocades. Silks of Many Types In silks, there are moires of every | description and in every guise, a really remarkable display of which is seen at the house of Gaillot, Guinot. In addi- tion there are satins of heavy supple quality with a surface finished like panne; new, wool backed charmeuse; crinkly crepes and chiffons, sometimes fagonné, sometimes plain, often printed in con- | trasting colours, and overcast with silver, and again often brocaded with great sprawling velvet figures. From the looms of Coudurier and | Fructus come this year the most marvel- lous creations of metal brocades, fagonnés in every fabric known, and embroidered silks and velvets. There are wonderful weaves in thin gauzy chiffons, printed in colours and outlined with silver threads or shadowed with the same; _ velvets embroidered in the most bewitching little Louis XVI wreaths; heavy black ribbed brocaded silks, called pactoles; quaint old fashioned satin damasks, just like furniture coverings, and as a matter of fact so called; and an infinite variety of “‘ mordance,’’ which for the bene- fit of the uninitiated it may be said means two tone brocades, done in the dyeing, in the satins, the moires, and the velvets. The Colour Chart With regard to colours, the general tendency in the plain materials, both in silks and wools, is much less vivid than in the preceding seasons; in fact it is quite staid and sombre in tone. Such tints as dark “‘téte de négre,” hardly dis- tinguishable from black; rich purples; soft violines; red, warm and clear like the juice of the red and the black currant | from which they take their name, “couleur | groseille;” ‘couleur cassis,” greens in all shades from the palest and most delicate Nile, through all the gradations | of the scale, leaf, apple, emerald, empire, | sage, olive, bottle—and silver, silver everywhere, are those which predominate. The novelties and trimmings on the con- trary are more fantastic and extraordi- nary than ever before in their composi- tion, and oranges, silver, purples, crim- sons, and greens, are mingled together | on backgrounds of white or sharply con- trasting colours in the most startling, yet fascinating, mélange. : FACIAL EXERCISE Restores Youthful Beauty Real compelling Beauty comes only in Nature’s Way. t , me tell you how yoy can, in your own home, restore as wel] i *_ as preserve youthful contour and expression; remove all wrinkles caused by sagging muscles; make the com. plexion as fresh as in girlhood (through in. vigorated circulation); and make a flabby withered neck firm and fresh, without massage. vibration, plasters, or any external treatment. These can neither restore youthful appearance nor prevent marks of age. My system both Restores and Prevents. I have been teaching it for thirteen years and have many pupils of national prominence in this and foreign countries. Write today for my New Booklet ‘‘Faciaj Exercise," which fully describes my System, ane nk new Supplementary Beauty Course KATHRYN MURRAY, Dept. H9, 209 State Street, Chicagy Boarding School What these two words mean to your § girl or boy! : Are you having difficulty in finding g your wants amply supplied? j Would you like to know of a school which will meet the requirements of your boy or girl? Why not write us? We can aid you in the selection of the right school. We neither ask nor accept fees. This & service is free of expense to applicant and school alike. In ~—— it is essential to give —age o, f pupil, location, tuition and kind of school desired. 2 SE EPERE EEE EesebE cE SE sEsE SESE SEES Cosmopolitan Educational Club 119 West 40th Street New York City nioeic elo elo eoelge!selgelcelcelc BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSET \ The best- corset of this kind; #” made for its own purpose — can | be worn at any time, allows one to dress as usual and preserve a normal appearance. Prices from $5 upward Mail orders filled with complete satis- if faction. Call at my parlors or write for booklet No. 10, which is sent free under plain envelope. BERTHE MAY, 10 East 46th St., New York dvb 1a 24 BULBS FOR 106 n wig and Complete Treatise on Bulb Culture, a indoors and out, and beautiful Catalogue— TJs ALL FOR 10 CENTS These 24 Bulbs, 3 each of 8 different kinds, Tulips, Jonquils, G. Hyacinths, Iris, Freesias, &c., will make beautiful flowers for winter or lovely early flowers for the garden. Plant now. Our Catalogue of Hyacinths, Tulips, Nar- cissus, Lilies, Hardy Plants and rare winter blooming plants FREE TO ALL. John Lewis Childs, Floral Park, N. ¥. ALL HAIR ON FACE AND ARMS permanently de- stroyed, guaran- - Mme. Jul- son, tec’ by law. MME, JULIAN, 16 West 47th St., New York Gity ENGRAVED ” 1] WEDDING INVITATIONS Highest Grade—Not a printed imitation. Correct styles. Each additional hundred $2.25. Outside and Inside Envelopes. ransportation prepaid. Send for free samples. 100 Finest Engraved PALMER ENGRAVING CO. Calling Cards, $1.00. 1000 Rand MeNally Bidg., Chieage the le Quilt for ALLENDALE COUNTERPANES, SUSe"SRY? Soars, in homes, hospitals, hotels, etc. Recommended by physicians. “La ed easily as sheets.” Ex- tremely durable. under ly Send for Description to Dimity Quilt Co., Dept. |, Allendale, R. 1., U.S. A “Home-Making, the New Profession” Is a 100 pp. ill. booklet—it’s FREE. Home study domestic science courses. For home-makers, teachers, and for well-paid positions. Am. School of Home Economics, 509 W. 69th St., Chicage, Ui. snp For the China Painter ne and Keramic Studio Magazi Potter. 1 Year $4.00, 6 Mos. $2.00, 3 Mos. $1.00. Sainple Copy, Back Number, for Introduction 10 ete. Recognized Authority on the Decoration of Pottery and Porcelain. Harper’s Bazar

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Just Published Rex Beach’s THE IRON TRAIL Alaska again !—the scene of Rex Beach’s great successes—in a story more crowded with action and sentiment than any- thing he has ever done before. Struggles of rival railroad build- ers, fights against the glaciers, and the love of an unusual hero- ine, make a powerful novel, quickening the blood like glacial air. As for humor, there is a new vein of it in “The Iron Trail” as rich as the gold through Klondike’s best ore.—I/lustrated. Post 8v0. Cloth. $1.35 net. The Judgment House By SIR GILBERT PARKER Pabst “Had Gilbert Parker never writ- ten the admirable novels that have won him fame, his latest, ‘The Judgment House,’ must at once have placed him in the lead among the present writers of fiction.”— Philadel phia Public Ledger. “The very best novel that has been produced in a very long time, which is saying a great deal.”— Seattle Post Intelligencer. Illustrated. Post 8vo. $1.35 net. Desert Gold By ZANE GREY Som iii SESE ATS == IL * Fo" 1 “He has given us again the very atmosphere of the desert, with the vastness and loneliness of it.”— N. Y. World. ‘“‘An intensely interesting story, written with the full blood-heat of a strenuous life, and the reader who begins it will not easily lay it down until the end.” —Salt Lake City Trib- SSBR IS 8S ae : une. Illustrated. Post 8vo. Cloth. a $1.30 net. | HARPER & BROTHERS NEW YORK For September, 1913 | of chiffon for mornings. As One Woman To Another (Continued from page 22) Mrs. Martin’s Velvet Hat Mrs. Peter D. Martin, who is in New- port after an absence of three years, is the latest arrival from Paris. Her first appearance at the Casino and Bailey’s Beach was awaited with much interest, for Mrs. Martin is an inveterate follower of the new fads and fashions. Her simply-made gown of turquoise blue chiffon was topped with a Tam o’ Shanter hat of black velvet absolutely untrimmed. The crown was very full and framed her face most becomingly. Black velvet hats in August are not altogether new in Newport, for last year many of the older matrons wore them. I am not surprised, however, at the sanc- tion given them by Mrs. Martin and the younger women who have since followed her example. August is the month of fogs at Newport and Narragansett and velvet does not grow limp as straw does. I have so far seen no ostrich plumes on these hats. Paradise and other fancies are the favourite decoration. And, by the way, maline, so popular a few weeks ago | at other resorts, has no chance at any of these fog-ridden places,—it droopssosoon. And White Satin Hats, Too On Mrs. Martin’s second appearance she wore a very fetching white satin hat, small as to brim, but wide of crown. The brim in the front was cut wing-shape, showing her straight bang and merry brown eyes. Primly set across the back was a flat bow of white satin. There was no other trimming. Mrs. William Manice, a bride of the early summer, has also declared in favour of the white satin hat. It has advan- tages over the velvet, as it is not so warm. Speaking of Mrs. Martin’s blue chiffon gown reminds me that chiffon is one of the most delightful and dependable ma- terials for simple morning costumes. To most of us, this fabric suggests eyen- ing or reception gowns, but I have just seen two little costumes that prove its practicability for morning wear. White Chiffon Morning Frocks At Bailey’s Beach the other day, Louise Scott, who is going about a great deal this summer with her débutante niece, Mimi Scott, wore one of these costumes. In her case the chiffon was combined with white satin charmeuse. The skirt was formed of three layers of chiffon arranged one over the other. They were really scant flounces. Over | them was a plain overskirt of the char- | meuse. | long-sleeved The blouse was merely a severely shirt of the charmeuse, cut V neck. The charm of it was the Quaker fichu of the chiffon outlining the V, the ends tucked into the white girdle. Where the fichu met the girdle was stuck one of the large white satin roses that are | so effectively used at present. Mrs. Herman Oelrichs also approves She wears a gown that is slightly more elaborate than that worn by Miss Scott. As to the Harem Veil Whether or not the harem veil will hold its own through the autumn remains to be seen. During the summer the girls who played tennis invariably wore their chiffon veils in this sensible fashion, and I notice that the women who drive their own high-powered cars about Long Island and Newport wear their chiffon and even their lace veils in this way. But a word to the novice,—a hat with a fairly broad brim is obligatory, otherwise there is absolutely no protection for the eyes from the wind or sun. Green and brown of a very dark shade are the best colours, as white is apt to irritate the eyes. In fact the darker colours are much smarter than white or the pale blues and pinks that some of the younger girls are swath- ing themselves in at the Pier and Newport. Mrs. Arthur Scott, formerly Cynthia Roche- Burden, whose colouring is camellia-like in its delicacy and who in- cidentally is one of the expert tennis players in Newport, invariably protects her complexion with a brown chiffon veil arranged in the harem manner. Kath- erine Steele and Elsie Stevens wear their lace veils in this fashion, and as the lace is narrower than chiffon, they do not have so many folds across the face. The dev- otees of this latter fad claim that the narrower veils are much cooler than the chiffon. Mrs. Elsie French Vanderbilt thinks | that she has solved the veil problem by wearing her very wide chiffon veils hanging straight from the brim of her hat. The lower hem frequently touches her waist line in the front and the back hangs as free as the front. Everybody Wears a Scarf There never was a time, not even in the early ultra-modest Victorian days, when scarfs were of such moment as they are this season. Perhaps it is because of the excessively diaphanous gowns that we are wearing with such nonchalance. When we drape ourselves in a chiffon or maline scarf, it may be that we feel that the rest does not count! However this may be, there never were such allur- ing and fascinating affairs as these bits of “protection” we use at all hours of the day and evening. Day? But yes. In Newport the young matrons as well as the older ones use them with their after- noon costumes just as much as with their evening gowns and the débutantes are simply “crazy” about them, because they are so “amusing.” Everything this summer is ‘“‘amusing” rather than in- teresting or becoming. Mrs. William Roelker has a scarf that is a perfect joy. It is perhaps because of this last quality that the fad has taken such a_ hold. back recently from Paris with the most fetching little morning frock of dull blue Esther Moreland came | silk with patch pockets and collar and | cuffs of Cubist silk. Mrs. Fish’s Silver. Slippers Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish, at her beautiful Fairy Ball given in August, introduced the silver slipper to the Newport colony. I predict a season of silver rather than gold slippers, for the latter have been worn for several years and we are ready for something new, or for an old fashion to be revived. Mrs. Fish’s slippers were laced about four inches above the ankle with inch-wide silver lacings. Women in New York and Newport have been a bit slow in adopting this laced slipper, but it has now received their approval. The Thé Dansant slipper, as the débutantes call it, is peculiarly fascinating when worn with the “up-in-the- front” evening gowns. Worth of Paris Says: (Continued from page 34) softening and flattering aid of a good corsetiére. It is, or should be, a self- evident fact that all things are not appropriate for all persons. You take a tall slender girl, and put her into a tight skirt and a corsetless waist, and, since she has a good figure to start with and, in addition, the intelligence to modify her steps to her skirt, the effect is charming. But take a person of less classic mould, shall we say? put her in the same costume, and the result falls little short of caricature. Dancing Frocks to be a Feature As far as we are concerned I will say that I think the present silhouette in many ways both becoming and graceful, and that, though skirts will probably be slightly fuller at the foot, the clinging line is the one we shall continue. One of the features of our opening will be the dancing frocks. The new style dances have necessitated a new style of dancing skirts, and we are making these frocks short but draped in a manner to give perfect freedom and grace of movement. ! Ball gowns are, as usual, made with trains; but other than this all skirts, both for walking and for reception gowns, are short, and many of our best models of this latter description are to be of plain black velvet. 47 | | | Everybody Smiles On Dressmaking Days When Pneu Form Is In the Home NNEU FORM does away com- pletely with all the fret and fuss of dressmaking. When inflated inside your fitted waist-and- hip lining, it reproduces your figure with the fidelity of nature. The most elaborate gowns can be made, draped, and completed by you or by your Dressmaker without a single “try on.” feeu. O77 The Pneumatic Dress Form relieves you of the fatigue of standing hour after hour for tiresome “fittings.” No more are you obliged to answer to the call to “‘ just try this on once more please.” The minutest details of your entire ward- robe may be perfected without one mo- ment of standing. One PNEU FORM in the family serves for the dressmaking and remodeling needs of the entire family. It is as simple as A,B,C. Each woman who is to have dresses made or remodeled first has a fitted lining made covering the upper part of the body, including the hips. PNEU FORM is then inflated inside of the lining and the figure of the person is reproduced with looking-glass fidelity. The standard rod adjusts to any skirt length. When not in ue PNEU FORM can be deflated and packed away in its own box base which holds it all. Weight complete ten pounds, Ask any of the 200,000 women users about the practical value and economy of PNEU FORM. Prepare for your dressmaking days now. Do not try to get along another season without PNEU FORM—Wom- an’s Greatest Saver of Time, Muscles, Nerves and Money, since the invention of the Sewing Machine. Write for booklet “IT’S YOU,” which gives full de- scription, uses and prices of PNEU FORM. THE Pneumatic Dress Form Company 557 ‘Fifth Avenue (Near 46th Street) NEW YORK It’s}You

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THE PHIPPS Hat which won first prize in the Ladies’ Home Journal Con- test is pictured above. It may be seen at all good shops with other equally attractive Rem- brandt studies by Phipps. C. M. PHIPPS, Inc. 41 West 38th Street New York City Hats (Continued from page 33) Jet is used as bandings for brims and crowns. The latest novelty is a flat band of tubular shaped beads which at a dis- tance look like glossy straw or heavy silk braid passementerie. The Characteristic Hat Black, particularly black velvet, is very smart; panne also is much used, and some pressed beaver. One of the great- est successes of the season has been the little black velvet turban shown in the sketch. This is made with soft crown and upturned brim, the edge of which is piped with black patent leather. A bow of the velvet, piped with the leather, is placed at the side of the front with one end wired erect, and the other draped in soft folds along the brim. Another of the sketches shows the | characteristic shape of the year; a mod- | erate sized hat with brim rolled high at the side, to be worn tilted low over the ear. Made of black velvet, it is trimmed | with a plume of soft vulture feather in a | | delicate shade of shell pink, from which | spout four small black curly | feathers. New Hat Fabrics Plush and velvet promise to be the mainstay of the winter hat, interspersed with some panne, anew variety with satiny, unruffled finish, “sans sens” as the manufacturers say, heavy moire and humble peau de soie. There is also a plush faconné, called breitschwan, very stunning, very effective, but which re- sembles the real fur about as much as | imitations ever do. Black velvet is on everything. Smooth shiny hats of black pressed beaver have large soft crowns made from swirls of the velvet, which finishes in some re- markable and complex manner in high wired ends at the back; tiny toques or turbans are made and trimmed with vel- vet; chic little walking hats in the modi- fied sailor form with narrow brim are likewise made in velvet, corded with patent leather and trimmed with dog- eared bows of the material corded in similar manner. Fantasies of Many Kinds For trimmings we find perky little Mercury wings posed two pairs together on the tip top of the crowns at the side, or balanced on the edge of the upturned brims. Also wonderful fantasies in ostrich feathers fashioned into little but- terflies in black and white poised on the ends of long wired stems covered with chenille, or made into great fluffy balls and attached to stiff quilled-shaped fan- tasies, and coque feathers plucked and shaped and grouped to form stiff aigrettes. Paradise, simple, and in fantasy, still sweeps from everything. It is too costly to be recklessly discarded, and incident- HARPER’S BAZAR Is Being Withdrawn From Clubbing Offers EGINNING with the Fall and Winter subscription season Harper’s Bazar is going out of clubbing offers. This means that you will soon have to pay the full subscription price even though you buy it in combination. The Bazar is anxious to give its friends every opportunity of obtaining the low last year’s prices and so makes the following offers. These prices will never be repeated. Order now if you want to take advantage of them. Address Dept. “B,” 119 West 40th Street. Harper’s Bazar - - - $1.25 NOW Harper’s Bazar - - - $1.25 Woman’s Home Com- $ 40 Hearst’s Magazine $ “- panion - - - + «= Ll, 3° or Good Houscheoping = 9m Everybody’s - - - - 1.50 Cosmopolitan - - $4.25 7 later$3.65 x il later $4.25 ‘Basper’s Bazar - - ~- $1.25 } wn | Harper’s Boner 2° e Review of Reviews - - 3.00 | $3.0 | Century - = we oe American Magazine- - 1.00 3) | Seribner’s - - P22 8 [ sQioo $8.25 325 | 1 — ° re 23) ~~ AS Harper’s Bazar - ~ Harper's Bazar = - - - $13 25 ife i Theater Magazine - al a) $40 "40 p senessh ag Annie One 95565 65 McClure’s - - - or Hearst’s Magazine 1.50 ” jas 4} Later $5.65 $6.75 / later$6.25 If the magazines you want are not listed here, send in your order without remit- tance. We will enter it at the very lowest legitimate rates and bill you accordingly. ally too becoming. Trimmings at All Angles There is apparently no angle or bound- ary line for the trimming. Bows of velvet spring out in wide wing-shaped form from the back, or are cut and pinched and wired into precise loops and placed directly in | the middle of the front. Feather fantasies | follow the same untrammeled paths; they | sprout from the front, tip backwards from the side, or rise valiantly to great heights at the back. In general there is less of the fly-away movement, of the stout little pine tree aigrettes springing out at right and from the brim, or bal- ancing one another in parallel lines from the top of the crowns. The general line of the hats from back | to front is somewhat shorter, and there | is none of that backward swerve of the brim; quite the contrary, for those brims | which are wide in the back are very | liable to be turned up close to the crown | after the manner of the Louis XVI style. The manner of wearing the hat continues | the same; low on the head, tipped to one | side, and raised on the other, showing the hair and the entire nape of the neck. In colours there are black and white, | quantities of plain black, téte de négre, | and dark navy blue, so soft and dull in tone that it becomes strangely confused | with black. 48 coque | MRS. ADAIR 557 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Telephone 2839 Murray Hill LONDON, 92 New Bond St., W. PARIS, 5 Rue Cambon ‘this Book! | It is consulted daily by women Write for | BOW TO BETam AND RESTORE T™ yourMr™m BEAUTY oF PACE AND Foun socially and_ professionally’ £ prominent both here and abroad. It is Mrs. Adair’s fa- mous Lecture Booklet (mailed free of charge) which explains the causes of and remedies for FACIAL WRINKLES | Bonne Sian THIN EYELASHES HOLLOWS AND EYEBROWS se LINES STOUTNESS SKIN FLABBINESS SLIMNESS PIMPLES TAN—FRECKLES COARSE PORES TIRED EYES BLOODSHOT EYES THIN NECK UNDEVELOPED BUST DOUBLE CHIN FALLING HAIR SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ETC., ETC. with full directions for use Book le receipt check, let describes many aon GAN ‘a MUSCLE DEVELOPING OIL, $1, removes lines, fills hollows. G: wNESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC, 75c., strengthens loose — skins, good for puffiness under e GANESH LILY SU LPHUR LOTION, ohts 50, iy hitens dark skin FS removes tan: G UTY BOXES, $5, contain- ES iabie. Tonic, Lily Ft Muscle it, Eastern Cream and samples of ban- delettes, '~—! and flower powder,com- y for progee or boudoir, STRAP, $5, reduces (see lustre dom . A ST . Te- (see A i moves forehead lines. Write or Call for Personal Consultation. Given With- out Charge. AT THE SALON, special treatments for the face ($2.50), tired eyes ($3.50) and superfluous hair ($2.50). English experts in attendance. Valuable Books on Home Decoration, Free “Homes Attractive from Gate to Garret”’ illustrates in colors and describes ideal homes, exteriors and interiors, and shows how to accomplish most in home and _ neighbor- hood improvement. Sent Free. “Mellotone Your Walls” tells all about Mellotone, the beautiful and washable modern wall finish. It shows how you can keep your home more beautifully decorated and at less expense than when paper or cal- cimine is used. Sent free. “Harmony in Color for Home Decoration” shows in actual painted colors the harmonious effects pro- duced by Mellotone and suggests the principles of decoration. Sent free. We have a set of these books for you, Cut this out, and write today. The Lowe Brothers Company 480 E. Third Street, Dayton, Ohio Boston NewYork Chicago Kansas City Lowe Brothers, Limited, Toronto, Canada Harper’s Bazar 1

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Not Nut Meats Though the taste is like toasted nuts. These are simply whole grains—Rice grains in this case— puffed to eight times normal size. We sealed the grains up in guns. We kept the grains rolling, for one whole hour, in 550 degrees of heat. That heat turned the moisture in the grains to steam, and created tremendous pressure. Then we shot the guns. And these grains came out—steam-exploded—filled with a myriad cells. Airy and crisp and nut-like—walls as thin as tissue. Like fairy wafers with a fascinating flavor. And millions of dishes are now served mornings, with cream and sugar, or mixed with any fruit. Puffed Wheat, 10c. Puffed Rice, Except in Extreme West 15c. ‘Decidedly more useful OTICE how much more convenient a “greaseless cream is—on how many more occasions it can:bé: used. To this fact is due the steadily increasing vogue for Pond’s Vanishing:Cream. You can apply it not only at night but whenever you dress, as it is entirely absorbed by the skin, vanishes, and will not soil gloves or clothing. To be sure you secure You will find many occa- ca sions when it is just what the greaseless cream you need. Put it to the which combines delight- most severe test—use it fulness and efficiency to the greatest possible de- gree, ask for Pond’s Van- ishing Cream. It is an ex- quisitely refined cream of delightful consistencyand with the real fragrance of Jacqueminot roses. this fall to soften, smooth and refine your skin. No matter how dry and tawny your skin may have become after the summer outdoors, the skin-softening ingredi- ent in Pond’s Vanishing Cream will restore all its freshness and pliancy, re- vive its beautiful soft color- ing and delicate transpar- ency. They Float Countless homes now serve them also as a dairy dish for suppers. Serve them in bowls of milk. They get whole grains with every granule exploded, so digestion can instantly act. Toasted, bubble-like wafers, four times as porous as bread. Fragile, crisp and dainty—the most inviting morsels ever made from grain. And they use them like nut meats—use them in candy, use them to garnish ice cream. Children eat the grains like peanuts in hungry hours between meals. These are really food confections. Tell your grocer to send you a package of each and see how your folks enjoy them. The Quaker Oals @mpany Sole Makers Made by the process of Prof. A. P. Anderson | ll : Pond’s Extract @mpany’s VANISHING CREAM Write us for dainty sample, or send 4 cents in stamps for generous trial tube. Pond’s Extract Company, Department 8, 131 Hudson Street, New York City. tee ey, . ‘ : = 77a pata iy’ apn light the man in your family by \ Ep ff getting him a bottle of Pond’s A)» / ee, Extract to use after shaving. f \\ In purity, strength and heal- “es > SS ing qualities, it is many ‘ \ times superior to its | . N “witch hazel” imita- \ je } rt i : tions. Or send 4 cents X:.. _ in stamps for a trial coal } \ size bottle. — “Fe ‘ AlsoColdCream, Talc-Face Pow- = der, Tooth — Paste and Soap. RZ Pond’s Extract — A Hint! De- y\ AN

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22 MSY AL AG 20. B go EB ha. Soe? PR, TYE ss GE Bs Ge: Oe eR ee BE ee SST ) | : | | : | 48 No tae wees Glee bo. - —, Dar . t GOLD | : MEDAL FLOUR TRY THIS FOR JELLY 1 cup sugar. 114 teaspoons baking f 1 cup GOLD MEDAL FLOUR. 3 eggs. 6 tablespoons of hot w Mix and sift the dry ingredients, stir in eggs 1 beaten, add the hot water, beat the batter wel inte a smooth, well greased pan. The batter should be put one-fourth of an inch deep, for if thicker the cake will not roll nicely. Bake slowly. When done, turn the cake onto a sheet of brown paper, well ed with powdered sugar. Beat the jelly with a f and spread on the cake. With a sharp knife tri off all crusty edges, roll it up by lifting one sid of the paper. The cake will break if allowed to — cool before rolling. To keep the roll perfectly _ round, roll it up in a cloth until cool. 4 URN-CROSB io Pe 7 Fe ‘s : THE SCHWEINLER P®!

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