Harper's Bazaar 1913-03: Vol 47

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Ende Foch Sock beck S Ed Sock fod Sock doch “aan” “ar “anor SS. -8%.-8%.-8%.-8%. 5%... 88. 4. 8.88... 58.88... 5.- 288... 58.. 8. 88. “7 “a? fo deh dhod Sock dr A kocd fred dock Sock Fock foc dock foc dock Fock Fock Fock feck oo. 8%. -8%.. 8%. -08.- 8.08.58. 58. 28... 58.8. e826. 58.28... 2e. a eee Oa oe ee ee ee oe ee ee ee i884. 0%. 0%. 5%. th. 0%. 0%... t%.. 0%. ch... 0%. 5%. PRERERERERERERSRERERSE The Mystery of the Barranca By HERMAN WHITAKER AUTHOR OF “THE PLANTER” A tale of Northern pluck and South- ern love and hatred in Mexico. Two young American engineers attempt to develop a mine, but encounter all kinds of opposition in the shape of underhand wiles, evasions, boycotting and assassi- nation. The heroine, niece and cousin of the two rich Mexican landholders who are opposing the gringo, combines all the best of her mixed Spanish and Irish ancestry. Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.25 net. “Charge It” By IRVING BACHELLER AUTHOR OF “ KEEPING UP WITH LIZZIE” “Brimful of hearty laughter.”— Charleston News and Courier. “Crowded with the laughter of ridicule and caricature.’’— Washington (D. C.) Star. “Tf you want the world to laugh with you read ‘Charge It’—a speedy cure for indigestion and the blues.” —New York American. Illustrated. The Red Lane By HOLMAN DAY A virile romance of the Maine- Canadian border. None other than a writer who has sojourned among these simple-hearted and clean-faithed folks, who has learned their ways, their noble- ness and their frailties, their reverence for authority, their loves, hates, and passions, could have so adequately painted the very human characters that unite in making a volume which the reader is loath to lay aside. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.35 net Paul Rundei By WILL N. HARBEN This new story of Southern life stirs all the deepest emotions of the human heart. Its scene is in one of those Georgia villages that Mr. Harben knows so well and depicts with so much charm of homely realism. In connection with a thrilling plot, involving the clash of violently opposing natures, he develops a sympathetic drama of the soul. The story portrays people of rough, strong passions whose characters grip by their reality, while Paul Rundel’s struggle captures the reader’s sympathy in an unusual degree. Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.30 net The Pictures of Polly By MARY KING COURTNEY Virginal and dewy-fresh, all rosy with the soft radiance of delectable youth, this story comes tripping with laughter. It ought to have been written in violet ink—and yet beyond its laughter and its fun, beyond the moonlight of its tender witchery, there glows the pas- sionate feeling, the ardent wooing, the daring-—naked and unashamed—which marks the dawn of palpitant first love. Illustrated by Will Foster. Cloth, $1.00 net The Voice By MARGARET DELAND A new Dr. Lavendar story and a new heroine. Philippa is the girl—an old- fashioned little thing, full of pleasant silences and soft gaiety and simple, startling truth-telling. Her lover is the orthodox village parson whose ‘uncon- scious affection for Philippa is most skilfully portrayed. The parson’s woo- ing of Philippa is quite the quaintest and most charming story Mrs. Deland has yet portrayed. Cloth, $1.00 net JUST PUBLISHED The Combined Maze By MAY SINCLAIR Author of ‘‘ The Divine Fire’”’ With broad, clear strokes, Miss Sinclair has drawn the characters in this story of love, disillusion, and fate in a London suburb. We know them all; love and hate and sympathize with them as we do with the people of Bennett’s Five Towns. There is, the hero, with the passion of a Greek athlete for physical development, and his girl friend at the gymnasium. The springlike fresh- ness of their love is destroyed by a woman of a more sensuous type, who makes him ashamed of what he now looks upon as the undeveloped sentiment of a boy. Her marriage to him brings out the contrast between her selfishness and the other woman’s lovable nature; and when she elopes with another man, divorce is impossible for the want of money. The sum is accumulated penny by penny; then Fate interferes again. Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.35 net The Net By REX BEACH A story so full of dramatic fire that it fairly snaps and crackles. Tender love, scintillating humor, and the violence of unbridled passion course neck and neck through every turbulent page. Yet, when the tumult and the shouting die, one remembers only the story of a love so strong and pure and tender that it warms the very cockles of the heart. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.30 net The Street Called Straight By the author of “THE INNER SHRINE” This new story by the author of “‘ The Inner Shrine” has commanded the attention of the entire English-speak- ing world and has drawn from the critics of America and England the most enthusiastic praise and the unanimous verdict that it is the author’s greatest book and the one destined to live and become a part of our literature. Eight illustrations by Orson Lowell. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.35 net The Dragoman By GEORGE K. STILES It is a love story. The heroine is an American girl. The hero is a young Englishman. The scene is Egypt— not the Egypt of hotels and tourists, but the grim hinter- land of the upper Nile, where strange things happen and few white men ever venture. The East and its mystery, the inner workings of international diplomacy, the mighty power of Mohammedanism, are all elements which make the story one of extraordinary and fascinating interest. Illustrated. Cover in Colors. $1.00 net Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.30 net PRO OOOO PRO REXORERERER ER ERX Books New Leaf Mills By WILLIAM DEAN HOWELLS _This new novel by Mr. Howells, de- picting, as he knows so well how to do, the simple conditions of the Middle West, is a story of American country life shortly after the Mexican War, when huskings, barn raisings, quiltings, spelling-matches, coon-hunts, candy- pulls, and revivals were the amuse- ments of a homogeneous community. There is no need to dwell upon Mr. Howells’s art; but it may be doubted whether in any of his books he has drawn a more sympathetic character than that of this unsuccessful idealist who felt ‘‘ the sweet unity of creation, the little things and the great things, and he felt that life and death in the measureless scheme were the same.”’ Crown 8vo0, Green Cloth Binding, $1.50 net The Necessary Evil By CHARLES RANN KENNEDY AUTHOR OF “THE SERVANT IN THE HOUSE” The play is ten times more stirring than any novel or rhetorical argument. Mr. Kennedy has the knack of telling the truth in a way that startles and shocks, but never disgusts. This play expresses just what the author thinks —what every one thinks in his heart— about the social evil—and expresses it with extraordinary directness, clean- ness, and poetic elevation. Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $1.00 net GreyfriarsBobby By ELEANOR ATKINSON “A bonny, sperity bit dog is Bobby of Greyfriars kirkyard, as lovable, loyal a little animal as ever graced the pages of fiction.” —Denver Times. “The book is, indeed, not unworthy of a place beside ‘ Black Beauty.’ ”’ —N. Y. Tribune. Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.20 net pee teat ie ver Lonelyland BOSHER “A dainty romance daintily un- folded.” —New York World. “A quaint and winsome tale of mod- ern society, redolent of humor, engaging in fancy.” —Phila. North American. “ A pretty,lovable story;... lingers long in the mind.”—Chicago Record-Herald, “Marked by the same sweet simplic- ity and naturalness that characterize ‘Mary Cary.’”—San Francisco Bulletin. Frontispiece. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.00 net The Moth By WILLIAM DANA ORCUTT The fascinating story of a flighty young fool of a woman who drags her two best friends down into the morass of a sordid-seeming scandal. Her con- duct is apt to fill the average reader with a strong desire to shake her, which is the best proof of the reality of her personality as the author has placed it in his pages. Frontispiece. The Financier By THEODORE DREISER This new novel by Mr. Dreiser is a drama of the lust for wealth and almost, onemightsay, the lust for love. In itsbig- ness, its insight into large phases of the evolution of American life, its portrayal of the fight for gold and power and the love of women, this novel ranks as one of the great examples of modern fiction. It is more vital than “Sister Carrie,” more vigorous than “Jennie Gerhardt.” Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.40 net. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.30 net HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK }OoDooooDoSoooooSE -. o th abated ae “ae “ae PhP het “o8“aR “aR “aR “aR “aR’ “a8 “OR =“tR “aR “eee “oR “EP “eF 3. “oe “a8 “ee 48 4 8 OR OP 48 4 48 48’ 48 OF 48 OP eo? v rer S32 - 2 -S%. 8%. 0%. 0. eh. ee. ee. ee. ee. a... a. ee ee ee ee ee thes ) i o> me ee me 4 Sick fet feck feed F Sick Sock fed, oS 8%. 8%. 8%. OR. ee. as 2 a a 9 ed fred Sock feed fe o £. ne ae aR ae “ae “8 ae “ee “eo “ee “a8 “ee “ee” 8 Ek Bek Bek feck feck a ae ae a a a ee ee ee ee ae ae a a ee GPAEAEAEDEESESE DET ETEDES ETE SE DEG SESE bad

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J sess esoteric ee eee a RE RRA RR? eae ee Re ae ee ee ee ee ee” OP oP Ooh os — >) =) ae ENTOS ER EES ORO RENDER SEN DTE ERNE: SSE USNS HARPER'S BAZAR - 2 a : CONTENTS FOR MARCH aa — Bim z p ¥''\\ . EE J SW mY , me ) nanan eerieen aeetronesuamreaaee ————--— Si . é FD Gee SNS ee eee we ew UNUM Sle, aaa Ate | Ya yY AN « D Y} Illustration by Howard Chandler Christy SuGGEstTions FoR WALL AND Rock Garpens . Jane Calhoun 133 Two Illustrations from Photographs Copyright, 1913, by Harper & Brothers é alee a BRN ui; 7 4 : "gp => Stories Garden Number Features 1% =T | d PAGE ; PAGE To © Tue OsscurE Mrs TownsenpD . - - « Lily A. Tong 19 A CHILDHOOD aMonG TREES AND Fiowers . Caroline A. Creevey 112 A Ee BE 7 Three Illustrations by Lucius Hitchcock With Portrait Z = $ A JouRNEY «+ « « . Leslie Davis 119 Tue Ovp-FasHionep GARDEN . Pee ee ae \ oe «ee Ae # 7 bse Illustrations by Robert W. Amick Three Illustrations from Photogrs aphs Z ee &£ HE GLORY OF OPPORTUNITY . . Ann joms . AEF § Se Eeeaea Shaw Ende a Dien Lite thet Anna Tjomsland 123 IMpoRTANCE OF GETTING StarTED Ricut . Samuel Armstrong 130 AE # Three Illustrations from Photographs Hamilton AE 4# ; Bee 4 Special Features Your KitcHEN GARDEN. . . Samuel Armstrong Hamilton 131 Ae & a Photographs and Planting Tables A ee i Our Two Greatest Bucpears .. . . . Ralph Waldo Trine 109 . AE # With New Portrait of the Author : Masme s Bows Geneta ._ ee ee AI ae i y 2) 0) otographs zg- 2 Tue AvutToprioGRAPHy oF A Divorcep Woman... . . . 110 erap =e Tue AFFINITIES. . . . . . « « John Kendricks Bangs 114 g Poem ‘ GARDEN FURNITURE . . . . « Martha Cutler 134 g Tue Revoir or THE Farmer’s Wire. Martha Bensley Bruere 115 Three Illustrations from Photographs : Two Illustrations from Photographs and Robert Bruere Givine a Cuinese Luncneon Party. . . . . Sara Bosse 135 zg P Z In Dunamane « © » « « « » «+ «, Florence Earle Coates 116 estat... ... St be te ee 3 E A Suggestion in Pictures Z ; E Smmpiiciry—sy Sir JosHua Reynotps . ....... =. WI7 f Z 3 Wood Engraving Masterpieces—III QUESTIONS AND SUGGESTIONS . . .......... 142 Zz = Is THE “Socrery Woman” a Usevess Person? . . Mrs. J. 118 2 3 : Some of Her Accomplishments Borden Harriman P ti LF t Fe zs 4 ee : ractica eatures - @ Over THE Hit—Two Journeys .. . . . Will Carleton 120 =e: With a Note by the Author CaNAPES DE LUXE . Helen Labagh Johnson 139 aan: Women Wuo AcuiEvE ....... .. .. . Dana Gatlin 121 Right Illustrations from Photographs 7 = Portraits : , Tue Bazar’s Prize NEepLEworRK Contest .... .. . 140 x Tue Gosret or New Hovusexeerinc . Helen Louise Johnson 122 Il ustrations of the Designs How to Enjoy Life on the Budget Plan Tue GentLteE Art or Home-Maxina . Robert and Elizabeth 125 BeavtiryinG THE Bapy . . - + + Marie Montaigne 143 Three Illustrations from Photographs Shackleton Four Illustrations from Photographs Givinc A CHINESE LuNCHEON PaRTY . « . + Sara Bosse 135 PREVENTING INDIGESTION IN INFANTS . . Marianna Wheeler 144 Four Illustrations from Photographs The Bazar’s Disease-Prevention Series ‘ For Harper’s Young weer The Bazar’s Fashions The Bazar’s Fashions (continued) t/ Happytanp Mai Box . . . 126 House Gowns or InpivipuaLtity . . 136 One-Piece Dresses. . . . . 150 151 P yon Eight Members 126 Two Illustrations Sheldon mes oo a a a . ComrorTaBLE Morninc Gowns. . . 137 Bazar Patrerns. . .. . . 152 153 , Two Illustrations Puzzte Kinxs ror H. Y. P.. . . . 126 nat atk eee 147 With Answers for January a S Pies ee ie et eg , Tue Monkey’s Feast . .... . 127 Sheldon The Bazar’s Departments By Ellen Velvin, F. Z. S. Smart SEPARATE Gowns. . . . . 148 Home DecoraTION . ..... . 1398 Bitty AND THE MeRMAID. . . - 327 Sheldon ge % By Nellie Pullock Russian Biouse FroM Paris . . . 149 Tue Puzie Mun. . . . . . . 154 Deere. ke et ee ee SS Sheldon Two Illustrations Vol. XLVII. No. 3 sareneoanraan HE NEXT BAZAR, a big special number, of course—the April Spring Fashion Number. fs Big pictures and plenty of them, showing both Paris and American Fashions, and helpful | articles telling just what you want to know on the Clothes Question. Full-page Sheldon drawings and a frontispiece, The New Bride, are a hint of the richness, beauty and practicality of The Bazar’s fashion pictures. The regular Bazar stories, features, articles, and depa tments are all in this big April number too. Soil Hunger is a story of youth and spring with four quaint outdoor drawings by Emrich. Another story is Partners, with a heart appeal to all of us. The Confession of a Climber is a personal experience revealed in a clear and thought-arresting way. There are more personal experiences too in Why I Prefer My Business Life, for which C. H. Taffs has made TTT earereecens om oT, q = CU: ; three significant drawings. Her Answer is the love letter of the girl to whom the man wrote : ] in the February Bazar. A valuable article on what future the American girl who wants to study : : art can expect is by Cecelia Beaux. To Marie Who Flirts is one of Clara Laughlin’s specially — Z worth-while talks. The art in the April Bazar is especially rich, including the full-page, 7he Angel at the Tomb, and anothe: of the wood-engraving masterpiece series, Playing the Zither,by Alice Barber Stephens. Many other interesting features and all The Bazar depar.ments. 3 NS : : N 6 — ee ee ae Information for Subscribers a ee | N # Harper’s Bazaris published monthly. Single copies 15 cents. Yearly sub- renew at once, using the blank inclosed, so that no interruption wil! occur in N 3 scriptions, $1.25, in the United States, Mexico, Cuba, Porto Rico, the Philip- your receipt of The Bazar. N pines; $1.60 in Canada; $1.97 in other countries. In requesting change of address please give the address to which The Bazar N FH is now being sent, as well as the new one. 2 The safest way to send your subscription is by express or postal money Harper & Broruers, Publishers, George Harvey, President, Franklin N Ei | order. Rural Free Delivery carries supply blanks. Make orders payable Square, New York, N. Y.; Frederick A. Duneka, Secretary, Franklin Square, N ff to Harper & Brothers, New York City. New York, N. Y.; Frederick T. Leigh, Treasurer, Franklin Square, New York, N When you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to 1 ie N By ssl ee _ Entered at the New York Post-office as second-class mail... .-__»_ jonni cine N 33 4

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}Our Two Greatest Bugbears By Ralph Waldo Trine We cannot fail if we live always in the brave and cheerful attitude of mind and heart. He alone fails who gives up and lies down. T has been said, perhaps over and over again, that we are all, more or less, creatures of habit. Undoubtedly there is much truth in the state- ment. As habit-forming, however, the same as habit-breaking, is purely a mental process, or rather, as it has its origin in mental processes, the question naturally arises—isn’t it better to be mas- ters rather than creatures of habit? Especially apt, moreover, is the question when we realize that in every case to be master is by far the more profitable as well as the more satisfactory. It rests upon each one to decide whether he or she will become a master or a creature of circum- stances. It depends upon the direction in which one sets his face, and how persistently he then follows the road upon which he enters. The facing in the right direction is the main thing. If, then, we have backbone and stamina and a fair degree of good cheer, which if persisted in will lead in time to a persistently merry heart all along the way, there can be but one outcome. It was Holmes who said: “Use the freedom which thy Master gave, (Think’st thou that Heaven can tolerate a slave?) And He who made thee to be just and true Will bless thee, love thee—aye, respect thee too!’’ ’ “The key to every man,” said Emerson, ‘‘is his * thought—sturdy and defiant though he look, he has a helm which he obeys, which is the idea after which all his facts are classified.” And again he said: ‘‘A man is to make himself felt by his proper force. The tendency of things runs steadily to this point, namely, to put every man on his merits, and to give him so much power as he naturally exerts—no more, no less.” Every act in every-day life is preceded and given birth to by a thought. The act repeated forms in time a habit; the habit, or the sum of one’s habits, determines his life, his destiny. And so we have it —thought on the one hand; life, character, destiny, on the other. Whichever way we look, we wiil find that thought is at the bottom of all progress or retrogression, of all that is desirable or undesirable in human life. As within, so without, it is simply a matter of sequence—it follows the elemental law of cause and effect. Live Up to Your Thoughts HAT we have the power to determine what types of thought we entertain and live with is one of the tremendous facts of human life—it is the great determining factor. It was that able writer in connection with the mind’s processes in their relation to life, James Allen, who said: “A man can only rise, conquer, and achieve by lifting up his thoughts. He can only remain weak and abject and miserable by refusing to live up to his thoughts. .. . Act is the blossom of thought, and joy and suffering are its fruits; thus does a man garner in the sweet and bitter fruitage of his own hus- bandry.” There ate certain types of thoughts and emotions that may be called the natural, the normal, the God- intended, as there follows in their train only good. Among these are hope, faith, courage, good cheer, love, sympathy, forgiveness, joy, and peace. They are positive and uplifting and body-building. They seem to act upon the life forces within so as to stimulate, or even to restore and to maintain, bid BRA Rei Peep ERD PRCA ARIES GBULTIES ARR I LAGS Peon Ae MR PES IR et Skis Lee er ee Daa : 3 ya ey ae ae ae na’ nar” ae oe On “a “Ga ws BaP Nana al i : o> ’ - ey SREY OA WATE UIE ALTE AL PEMA EEA SEB Brees BFS Se Pes STEM, x foe Mr. Trine’s latest picture harmony. They stimulate the circulation and the processes of nutrition. ‘They make both for mental and bodily health and strength and vigor. Again there are types of thoughts and emotions that seem to be perversions—the unnatural and abnormal. Among these are fear, worry, long-con- tinued grief, anger, hatred, avarice. All these might be termed either negative or low types of thoughts and emotions. They produce distur- bance and generate weakness in both mind and body. They lead to retrogression rather than to growth. Some of them work through a slow, corroding, pulling-down process; while others are more quick- acting in their poisoning, destructive influences. There are probably no agencies that cause greater loss and that produce more havoc in the individual life than the two closely allied habits of fear and worry. It is difficult to deal with them apart, so nearly related are they. First in regard to fear. We find it everywhere— fear that what is ours to-day may not be ours to- morrow, fear for the loss of position or possession or friends, fear of accident, fear of disease, fear of death —or if not ourselves, fear that something will befall this one or that one near or dear to us. We fear while inside—we fear that something may happen, though we do not know what. When out on God’s broad highway we fear that the bogyman, whatever form he ‘may take in any particular life, will stalk across our path. We must take ourselves out of the class of the “‘afraids’’-—the abnormals. The commanding figures in life do not fear. The time others are giving to it, and therefore to allowing the neutralizing and even paralyzing power of this perverted mental force to work its havoc in their lives, they are giving to seeing the ideal they would actualize or attain to, and then setting into activity strong, definite*types of thought-forces that are hourly and even momentarily working for them along the lines they are going. Thoughts are forces; like creates like and like attracts like. The same law is in operation here that i$ in operation in connection with what we may term the “draw- ing power of mind”’—we are continually attracting to us, from both the seen and the unseen sides of life, forces and conditions most akin to our pre- vailing thoughts and emotions. Be Careful of the Seed WE. speak lightly sometimes of ‘‘ideas.” But ideas have occult power, and ideas when rightly planted and rightly tended are the seeds that actualize material conditions. Again it is cause and effect—as we think we in time become. As within, so without—always and inevitably. To reach the point where we in time become free from the influence of these two great filchers of effectiveness of human endeavor and of human happiness is, after all, a matter of self-control. Others lack this control in other things, and they pay their heavy tolls. The drunkard lacks this self-control when it comes to a too frequent com- panionship with his bottle. He pays his price, and many times he would give the world to get from under the grip of his habit. Society then casts its stigma upon him, and he pays the price double-fold. The time, I believe, is coming when he or she who lacks self-control when it comes to these senseless and useless—aye, worse than use- less—habits of fear and worry, will have to bear the cfare, ES % Bar auoAS Nghe acces Fear and [} Worry Their Cost to Us, and How We Can Master Them same stigma that others who lack self-control along other lines are compelled to bear to-day. “It’s natural for me to worry,’’ says one, “and I can’t help it.” The first part of the statement may be true in many cases. ‘‘ Nonsense!’’ should be the reply always to the latter part of it. If you think you can’t help it, and if you persist in this thought, the chances are that you can’t, and there is perhaps then no hope for you. But take the other thought— take the thought that you can help it; realize once for all that you can and determine that you will, and if you keep your mind true to that idea and to that purpose, it is simply a matter of time until you will have taken yourself entirely out of the class of the “‘afraids,’”’ the ‘‘ get-nowheres.” Leave Something to Heaven WE concern ourselves habitually with so many things that we really need not concern our- selves with. We concern ourselves with so many small matters of mere detail, instead of concern- ing ourselves primarily with the fundamentals, and allowing the matters of detail to fall in place na- turally and of their own accord. The one given to fear or worry concerns himself or herself with a hundred things every day, and some even every night, that there is not the slightest reason for con- cerning oneself with at all. In a simple, homely way John Vance Cheney put a great truth along this line when he said: “The happiest heart that ever beat Was in some quiet breast, That found the common daylight sweet, And left to Heaven the rest.” “There are two things,’’ says a thoughtful modern writer, “which will make us happy in this life, if we attend to them. The first is, never to vex ourselves about what we cannot help; and the second, never to vex ourselves about what we can help.””. Happiness always keeps considerably ahead of the one who is given to the habit of either fear or worry. Such a one seems also to have the faculty of helping, at least, to keep it away from others. On the contrary, how truly Stevenson spoke when he said: ‘‘A happy man or woman is a better thing to find than a five-pound note. He or she is a radiat- ing focus of good-will, and their entrance into a room is as though another candle had been lighted. We need not care whether they could prove the forty-seventh proposition. They do a better thing than that; they practically demonstrate the great theorem of the livableness of life.” We all have our weak points; for anything ap- proaching an ideal growth and development and thereby attainment, we must, as we sometimes say, call ourselves up specifically now and then. We get so accustomed to running in ruts that we can never hope for anything other than a limited or a one- sided development, unless we do this occasionally. We must remember that by fear and worry nothing is ever to be gained, but much is always to be lost. By this negative attitude of mind, we open the doors, many times, for the entrance of the very conditions we fear may come upon us. When the fear becomes sufficiently deep-seated, we many times invite what we fear, the same as, by a different attitude of mind, we invite and attract the influences and conditions we desire. Subtle, but always working and all-powerful are the operations of the thoughts and the emotions, and it is here that we must look for the bulk of what- ever comes into our lives. A deep psycholog- ical law was undoubtedly at work in the life (Continued on page 145) ERI SIEST oy es SRS oR ps CERI 109

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110 HE NAME of the writer cannot, of course, be given. Her motive for telling her story will be understood by all who read it. She not to justify herself or blame her husband, but to warn ethers of the things to avoid. writes, KNOW that in telling the story of my life I am going to take the apparently unpopular side of what is a national question. Almost every one who writes about divorce speaks of the ‘divorce evil.” They say to the mismated, who have not the more brutal causes for separa- tion: ‘‘My poor people, yours is indeed a sad lot, but be brave; pick triumph from your defeat and remain together for the greatest good of the greatest number.” I would like to state my belief in the matter at once. I do not think there is anything sacred in a bad marriage. I believe such are often degrading, and nearly always limiting to all concerned in them. We should be taught to relinquish bravely any relation that has ceased to have in it any reality, instead of clinging to its empty shell, marriages as I did. I blame myself for not having clearly thought through my situation and ended it sooner. I do not think that the ever-increasing divorce rate in this country is an evil, but a ign of a deeply idealistic attitude toward mar- ) and though a different idealism than the old, a truer one. Divorce in this country nand, and one which is growing all through completer relation between man riage on the part of our people, has been a der the civilized world, for a and wife. It has been a many-thousand voiced statement that people not only refuse to live together on terms of un- happiness, but that they refuse to live together unless they find in marriage a relation not only tolerable, but a deep and real companionship. still believe marriage is sacred will think me a woman who, by her example, has helped along a deep moral evil. My own belief is that, through much I worked out my own salvation, and also that of the man to whom I was married, and that by con- tinuing to live with him I should have committed a deeply unsocial act. I know those who storm and stress, MARRIED with that mixture of romance and chance that is common to so many young girls. had arrived at the age when girls married twenty years ago, as a matter of course, there not being many other professions open to girls of my class. I was very honestly in love with my husband and he with me. We had known each other quite a long time and both of us faced marriage as seriously as it is That we were Of course I have had times of blaming William with deep bitterness, just as he has had times of blaming me, and probably still does blame me; but the real reason of our failure to make happi- ness of our marriage was due to things planted in us genera- tions before. We had a divergence of temperament and ; and a deep inner something that makes the harmony of two beings impossible. — possible or advisable young people should. © desperately unhappy, I blame no one. view We had known each other for years, and it failed, as so many others do, could not know who the man and woman were whom we were destined to become. All the talk I have heard about making the marriage laws more difficult presumes that people remain forever the individuals they are at the time of their marriage, instead of growing or de- teriorating, or at any rate changing. So, young people who, in their early twenties, marry as we did—I was twenty- two and Will was twenty-five—have often not even fore- shadowed the men and women they are to become. In our case, as with so many others, no one could have foreseen when we married what a deep temperamental dissimilarity was ours, and how profoundly mismated we were. Another thing that no one can foretell is what marriage is going to do to Women, especially, alter strangely. We all of us know that type of woman who sheds her girlish attractiveness as an ant bites off its wings before it begins to make its nest. The attrac- tiveness has served its purpose in this world, which was to acquire a husband. Again, the monotony that our marriage customs impose on people drives some men to excesses. W* got on the first few months of our marriage as well as most people. I was deeply interested in marriage and in my husband, and hein me. We were very busy fixing our house and I did all our work except the washing. At that time our differences showed themselves by my being quick-tempered and explosive, easily hurt and wash- ing away the sense of injury in a flood of tears, while William would harbor up for days a word he didn’t like. Before beginning the account of our first real quarrel I wish to say that I know I shall probably speak unfairly of William. Philosophically, I know that between a man who is a little too saving as the saying is in the coun- try—and a woman who is too free with money—wasteful, some world put it—there is little to choose. From the first { understood that it would be the part of wisdom to avoid the question of money between us, which always led to wrangling. William had a very wise plan for saving, with which nothing was allowed to interfere. It amounted to a principle, and one for which he would unfailingly break the family peace. He insisted upon saving a certain amount of his salary weekly. Our marriage was no hasty marriage. because we any given character. “near” The Autobiogra &S She Rev eals the Unhappiness of Seventeen Years I wanted to buy curtains for a sitting-room, and also an ornamental clock. It was a hideous object, but in my esthetic innocence I thought it beautiful. I longed for it and it pained me to see money going into the bank when I so wished to spend it. So, I saved in all the petty ways open to a woman who has no pocket money. I began by helping with the laundry and saving car fares, and each week William put my little savings in the bank with the weekly hoard. When there was enough, he announced, calmly: “‘We can’t afford those curtains, Marion.” “Why?” said I, blankly. “I’ve worked for them.” “‘We don’t need them, therefore we can’t afford them,” he asserted. ‘This is my money; I earned it,” said he, “and I’m going to do whatever seems to me wise and best with it—that is, leave it where it is.” “Tt isn’t your money,” said I. “I saved it with my own effort and my own work.’’ Then he enunciated his ideas on marriage. “T earned the money in the first place, and the things that we have are plenty good enough. I’m not going to begin now giving in to your extravagant ways. It’s time that you realized that I am the head of the house and that things are going to be done my way.” NEVER forgot those two sentences; I don’t mean that I treasured them up vindictively. We ‘‘made up” with mutual self-reproach and a mutual desire to do better. My husband even went so far as to buy me a pretty, useless ornament, which meant a great deal from him. I have always hated the masculine habit of atoning for unpleasant conduct or harsh words with a gift. I do not like blood money. phy o fa In those few words, however, my husband had been un just and tyrannical. riage is not an isolated human phenomon, and the rules tha govern all human progress govern it also. All my bein; cried out then, as it has cried out since, for a relationship with him which should be equal; where there should be no “head of the house.’”” The cry, ‘‘I am master, therefor: you must obey me,” in domestic life comes rarely from a strong man and never from the just one. What happened next in our domestic life is what almost invariably happens where there is not free companionship. To avoid trouble and have a little money of my own, | began to do what amounted to falsifying my accounts. It is hard for me to confess that I was, fpr the sake of peace, willing to prevaricate. I was too cowardly to try and make my husband ‘understand that a wife is entitled to the un- restricted use of a certain amount of money. I precipitated a terrible storm by telling on myself. My first baby was about three months old—it was born about a year and a half after we were married. I was twenty-three and a half and my husband a bare twenty-six. Each of us was profoundly convinced of the justice of our individual opinion; each had the old preconceived idea of marriage of the master and the dependent—standing in the way of our clearer understanding. The unexpected expenses that always turn up after a baby’s arrival, and which exceeded the amount that William had planned, had gotten on his nerves. I had been less careful and had not for some time practised either rigorous economy or small deceits, and his fault-finding irritated me so much that I snapped out at him that I was tired of saving, anyway; that I didn’t think he could do better than I, and that he was so small that he had “forced”? me—that was my foolish word for it—into small deceits, to gain a reasonable amount of pocket money. He made a vague reference to my return. ... I answered, impulsively, “Why should we play this farce out?” ee Do you mean a divorce?” he asked iT) Tyranny is something against which the human race has been making an age-long fight. Mar- a

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’ Divorced Woman When [I told this to William he turned dead white and said to me in a tone of incredulous horror: ‘Will you kindly repeat what you just said to me?” I repeated it defiantly, though a little frightened at the effect that my confession had had on him. “‘Do you mean,” he cried, “‘that you’ve been lying to me—actually lying? You’ve been cheating me? It isn’t the amount I mind, but the principle. It’s the thought that you, the mother of my son, could be so dishonorable in so petty a way.’”’ Then he added with a touch of mas- culine irrelevance. “If you wanted money, why on earth didn’t you come to me?” IS scorn and anger quenched my rage. I did not even try to explain that I had done what I did only because I believed I had a right to a certain portion of his savings. From my present point of view, I think that my act was a contemptible one and I don’t wonder at William’s disgust. Yet, I know that there is scarcely a woman in this whole wide country who, in one way or another, doesn’t falsify the accounts if her husband controls the money of the house and is, as William put it, master. A woman who lives this way deteriorates; it is deeply demoralizing for an adult to live as a dependent. It was this scene, which so rent asunder our mutual trust and confidence, that cured me forever of small subterfuges, though it planted an eternal suspicion in William’s mind againt me. Its violence made me pause and I took myself in hand and made up my mind to be a better wife. By being a better wife I meant studying William’s idiosyn- crasies and striving to please him in every way, avoiding asserting myself in ways I knew would precipitate a squabble. William had that masculine vanity which made him believe that because he was a man he necessarily knew more about every subject than I. Free companionship between men and women has done much to do away with this especial sort of vanity. There is also the adage that “‘men ought to be humored ’’"— that is, their bad manners in the home overlooked and their bad tempers avoided. I spent several years of my life living in this way. Sometimes I was successful and sometimes not, but for an adult human being to spend her entire time in studying the foibles of another human being is a stunting and even humiliating way to live. The only thing this taught me was to avoid giving expression to my feelings freely and to pretend to think a variety of things that I did not think at all. Wé might, however, have disagreed just as fundamen- tally on many vital things and yet have remained good friends, but there was growing in me, under all my .passive- ness, my own self, just as William was growing. The in- herited traits in us had decreed that as the years advanced we should become even more alien—alien, and then hostile and finally repellant. My concessions aroused my hidden rebellion. I longed to have some one with whom I could discuss the questions life put to me, but William, the con- servative, hated thought. Every little while our hostile individualities would meet and clash and I would wish my- self dead, and William would have long fits of gloomy brooding. The idea of separation had never occurred to either of us. . I remember the day that I definitely realized how im- passable was the gulf between us. A bookkeeper in my husband’s office left him with scanty notice to take a better position. His abrupt departure left William very short- handed. The position did not turn out what the man hoped Painted for Harper’s Bazar by Howard Chandler Christy 111 Whvy the Final Step Was Inevitable and within a few months he was left without work. When my husband heard of this, he exclaimed: ‘‘Now, let him come to me for a reference and see what he gets!” “His office work was good, wasn’t it?” A look of grim satisfaction came over his face and he said. “T won’t give an unreliable man like that a reference.’ “But he has a wife and children,” I protested. “His family affairs are no concern of mine,” retorted my husband. “Oh!” I cried, “I wouldn’t have believed it of you. You're just being revengeful and making believe you’re not.” “T’d be obliged to you if you wouldn’t comment on things that don’t concern you,” said he. I sat a long time after that without moving and the chief thought in my mind was, “This is the father of my children!’ This relentless attitude in one way or another would come out toward them some time; they also would suffer through this unforgiving spirit that cloaked itself in the mask of uprightness. HIS scene crystallized in my mind the fact that while I might, by infinite pains, avoid open conflict with William, the children were developing their own personali- ties at variance with his, and would suffer more than I had suffered. Here is one of the deepest wrongs of the dis- united household. During the formative years the mother guides and molds the children. Although she may defer to the father’s wishes in all the matters that she can, she will unconsciously train them to her own ideals.and this will inevitably put them at odds with their father. More- over, the atmosphere where no love exists is a terribly de- pressing one for young things to be reared in. By the time Madeline was six and Lester seven, I realized that not only had William and I ceased to love each other, but that the hope of any real understanding that makes of marriage a beautiful, enhancing and dignified relation was forever impossible, and that merely habit and custom kept us together. Simultaneously with this came the realiza- tion that to maintain my life in decency I would have to have some small independent means. I will not go into the details of my struggles to become a kindergarten teacher; they extended over several years. Though my husband talked about the neglect of my chil- dren and the woman’s place being in the home, I persisted. It was working in this school that made a person of me. The uselessness of our marriage became even clearer to me. We were strangers (hostile strangers unless we kept guard over ourselves), and yet we were husband and wife. The thing that we now quarreled over was the children. Through my work I had necessarily come to an utterly different attitude toward children and child-development than has the average person who has never thought about them. William’s attitude was this average one, and it was a constant torment to me to see my boy, who was of a very sensitive temperament and naturally shy and lacking self-reliance, made fun of by his father and told rudely, “Hold your tongue; don’t talk like a fool,” and repressed in a thousand ways that emphasized his natural defects. Since the age of twenty, William had been immersed in business. He had nothing of the child in his temperament; he knew as little about boys as it is possible to know. I, on the contrary, had given all my best efforts to understand- ing and studying my children, and had been studying other children, and the various systems of education, as my work in life; but by the simple virtue of being the boy’s father William felt that he knew, through some mysterious and divine agency, more about the boy than any one else could possibly: know. T was with deep relief that I seized the chance to attend a kindergarten convention in Switzerland, taking the chil- dren with me. The friction between Lester and William was growing daily, the boy showing it by avoiding his father and becoming surly, silent, and uncommunicative whenever his father was about. It seemed to me as if William acted upon him like an extinguisher, and naturally the loyalty that must exist between husband and wife, whatever else does not, prevented me from comforting the boy for actions of his father which seemed to him unjust. I shall never forget that first summer away from him. It seemed to me as if a most terrible blighting weight had been lifted off my life. I had been diverging from him with the velocity of my entire nature, as he had been diverging from me; and just living in the house with one so incom- patible to me had made all joy and spontaneity impossible for us both. The children, too, were much happier away from their father. While I was away I made all sorts of good resolutions. In the peace and happiness in which I was living, and with the freedom to go and come and make acquaintances, such as I had not enjoyed for years, it seemed to me that every- thing was possible and that I could somehow create a better understanding between my husband and myself, and that even if we could not love each other, at least we could com- plete each other’s lives and contribute to each other’s hap- piness. The first half hour that we spent together showed me that my hopes were entirely in vain. Each of us had ex- panded in the other’s absence; each of us had found hap- (Continued on page 142)

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112 A Childhood among Trees and Flowers An Autobiographical Chapter by Caroline A. Creevey EARLY two generations have passed since I was a little girl and came with my father and mother to a small, growing Connecticut village. It numbered then four hundred inhabitants. Father cut down pine trees on a hill, and built his house in the space thus made. For forty-five years, until his death, that was his home, a house added to here and there, wher- ever the wish seized him, until it defied all modern ideas of architecture. The place extended over many acres, and at the foot of the hill father owned two of the first mills in the village, where brown and white paper were made. I was a frequent visitor in the mills, and became very familiar with the details of paper manufacture, from the room filled and dusty with rags, and the great vats of pulp, to the machine which fed and cut large sheets of ugly brown or pretty white paper. If any sheets were blemished they were thrown aside, and I gathered them up to cut into paper dolls, of which I had a large family. A waterfall, seventy feet high, of great natural beauty, furnished the power for father’s mills, or, as we used to say, ‘‘ran the mills.” The stream continued to descend for a mile or more, attracting, in the course of time, other factories which proved the wealth and means of growth for this pretty New England village. The stream which proved the making of the village flowed from one of New England’s lovely small lakes, a sheet of water about three miles long, rising into wooded high banks on one shore, spreading into cultivated farms and a mag- nificent pine grove on the opposite. This pine grove was my favorite place for walking and dreaming. And since tramps were unknown in those days, I often went thither, either alone or with my sister or a friend. The delicious smell of the grove—my grove, I used to call it—rises in my nostrils now. There I found the pink lady’s-slipper, and, rarely, the small yellow one. The Hartford fern grew there in masses, and I twined it into wreaths for my hat. Num- berless dainty small vines and flowers became my friends. On a pleasantly warm day, I loved to lie on my back on the soft cushion of pine needles, gazing into the noble roof far above my head, listening to the hum of insects or the pipe of a bird. The murmur of the pines was music that I loved. I turned up old, decayed leaves of shrubs which grew along the edge of my grove, and saw curious little black beetles and bugs run into cover. Sometimes a shy rabbit or gray squirrel stopped to look at me, and once I saw a mink peeping over a log. There were no snakes or mosquitoes in my Eden. It was there that, without knowing it, I acquired a taste for the out-of-doors, and a desire to learn about birds, insects, and flow- ers, a love whick has shaped the dominant pursuit of my life. Mother had eight children, and I was the eldest but one. The first, a boy, had flown from the parental nest when six months old. The loss was a terrible blow to my parents. Mother told me once that she feared that father would lose his senses through grief, and when I came, being a girl, he scarcely noticed me for many weeks of my baby- hood. One day he came into the room where I was sitting in mother’s lap. I stretched my hands toward him and crowed in baby fashion. He caught me in his arms, hugged me to him, and was my devoted father ever after. The New House LIVED as other children did, played “hi spy” and other games then in vogue, visiting, climbing trees, and tearing dresses. I was mother’s despair until she conceived the idea of making me mend my own frocks (done in the clum- siest fashion) and wear them after my unskilled fingers had accomplished their task. I seldom walked, but ran or leaped, often accompanied by my jumping-rope or hoop, to the store, to the post-office, to school, to see the other girls, and every day I hemmed a towel or sewed “‘over and over” the seam of a sheet. At night, alone, and in the dark, the awful facts of existence faced me, and I was afraid to go to sleep, lest I should never wake up. I would strain my eyes wide open, but do my best, I could not remain awake all night. 1 well remember the day when we were driven, in a sleigh, to the new house on the hill. Mattie, my sister, and I were nearly smothered, having been placed in the bottom of the sleigh and covered with a buffalo robe. I was old enough to be full of expectancy, being nearly four. But the move was made in a bleak March. The plastering in the house was damp, and we all took cold. Mattie and I had lung fever. Mother had no help and was ill herself. How she brought us children through the evil days of that dreadful month she never knew. Spring brought warm days and we grew strong and well. It proved an ideal place for children. There were rocks and hills, spring flowers, lovely bushes in which to hide, tall chestnut trees which in the fall dropped big brown nuts, spruces, pines, and hemlocks, oaks and sassafras, all of which I learned to know and appropriate as my friends. Mother named our home “Evening Side,’’ because it faced the west, and had a fine, far-away view to the Con- necticut River, and the Meriden hills beyond. In summer, the front veranda was our family meeting-place, especially in the evenings, after tea, where we watched the sunsets. Showers came up from this direction—big, black thunder- showers which were the delight of my heart. Mother never would let us be afraid of thunder-showers. Our Sabbath (we never called it Sunday) began on Satur- day night. Mother had been accustomed ‘‘to keep Satur- day night,” the sacred hours of Sunday ending with sun- down of Sunday night. The custom was on the wane, but mother said it was safe to keep both nights, and she so ordered her household that everything, by Saturday eve- ning, was in readiness for the weekly religious festival. Play Author of “Recreations in Botany,” « Harper’s Guide to Wild Flowers,” etc. and work ceased, and Sunday-school lessons were learned on Saturday evening. Family devotions were,longer than on other days, and bedtime came sooner than usual. Our Sunday breakfast was of fried mush—‘‘hasty pudding,” we called it, prepared the day before, and eaten with molasses, or a syrup made of light-brown sugar. Church began at half past ten. Sunday-school followed, and at twenty min- utes after one we went home to dinner, very hungry. Dinner was of cold meat, with a nice hot dish of baked beans and pork, of the Boston variety, which had been put into the oven on Saturday and allowed to bake slowly all night. Hiding-places in the Trees E two girls were left in the charge of mother’s maiden aunt, a most excellent woman, but one who could not understand children. They were an enigma. Dear soul! She was kindness itself, but prim and stern. To reinforce her in the proper discipline, the ‘‘supply” of our church, a Mr. Pratt, was to board at our house and keep aneyeonus. Mr. Pratt could smile, but most of the time his mouth was shut in a very firm and set expression. Aunt Hannah set apart, daily, one mortal hour for sewing. Did she but leave the room for a minute, I threw down the hated towel or sheet and rushed for the beautiful out- of-doors. Sometimes the minister pursued and caught us. But once among the trees, not even he could ferret out my hiding-places. There was not a tree on the place, except the gummy, nasty old pine trees, which I did not fearlessly climb. I could “shinny up” straight trunks for ten or fifteen feet, until I reached the branches, where I found many a nice seat. Many of them I peopled with fairies and gnomes, with whom I talked while rocking and swaying with the wind. The white birches were my favorites. By sitting in just the right place among the branches I could bend them up and down, springing and ‘‘teentering.”” This rocking in the branches, almost concealed by the thick leaves, was the most delightful of occupations. Nothing could have been simpler than our food. Milk we could have in abundance from our own cow. It was part of my business to take the cow to pasture every morning, and go after her at night. It was as much as my strength was equal to, taking down the bars, but I accomplished it when still very small. At ten o’clock, we children were given a glass of milk and a cookie. If huckleberries were in season, a big spoonful was put into the milk. These, in order to prolong the delicious repast, we ate, one by one, speared on a long pin. For dinner, at noon, we often had five or six vegetables fresh from the garden. I was fond of the good things of the woods, and was seldom without sassafras root, birch bark, wintergreen leaves, berries, or flag root in my hands. As to the cherry time, it was the best of the year. I climbed high into the big trees, sat on the branches and ate, literally, by the quart, often glorying in the number of pits— stones, I used to call them—that I swallowed. Appendici- tis had no terrors for me, nor for anybody in those days. Perhaps there were poisonous fruits growing in my haunts, but I was fearless except in regard to “‘toadstools,”’ all of | THis picture shows Mrs. Creevey, with her sister, at about the time covered in this autobiographical chapter A strong | love of outdoor growing things was one of her earliest traits,and | was prophetic of her career as one of the leading women nature writers in America. Her summer home is in Quiogue, on the south shore of Long Island. A large native pine grove on the north gives the name “ Pine Crest.” An avenue of dwarf catalpas leads to the house, and more than thirty species of imported evergreen shrubs and trees are well established in what would seem unfavorable situations, grounds often swept by heavy winds and storms Mrs. Creevey’s best-known books are “ Harper’s Guide to Wild Flowers,” “ Flowers of Field, Hill, and Swamp,” and “ Recreations in Botany.”—The Editors which I regarded with suspicion and never touched. Also, there was a species of blueberry which we called ‘dog- berries,” and which had a bad reputation with us. I often looked for fairies under toadstools, and when I found them not, I would say, “‘Of course not. For if they danced in my presence they would not be real fairies, since no mortal eyes have seen real fairies.’ A Cure for Warts A Raper I thought ugly, but interesting, and I often caught them and held them in my hands, sometimes keeping several of them in a box with perforated cover. One day I was told that toads produced warts. I had three or four of those disfiguring appendages on my hands, and from that time I never touched a toad. I had one es- pecially large and troublesome wart on my forefinger. I went as usual to Julia, my mother’s hired girl, with my troubles. With an air of great secrecy she directed me to get out of bed when the moon was full, go out into the gar- den, pick a bean, and rub my warts with it, then bury it where no one would know. Even she must not know. I carried out the prescription to the letter. Slipping out of bed and softly stealing out of the door—my father was still up, reading a book—I went to the garden, opened a bean-pod, rubbed a bean vigorously over the warts, and buried it. I forgot about the occurrence for a few days until Julia asked me where my warts were. To my great surprise, not one was to be seen, and my fingers remained perfectly smooth from that time. They had all mysteriously disappeared, and for many years I was a firm believer in Julia’s remedy. She told me at the time to tell no one, as they might return. She and I were the only possessors of this delightful secret. My father kept bees, and some of our honey, as that made in apple-blossom time, was delicious. Father was mightily afraid of bees, but often had to hive the swarms himself. Usually a neighbor, Mr. Hurlbut, hived them for us, and he had no fear, but would thrust his hand into the mass of bees and let them crawl all over his arm, with never a sting. Father would put on a veil, gloves, tie his trousers over thick boots, and then would almost always get badly stung. The Games of Long-ago M* father was devoted to the happiness of his children, and provided, among other things, a see-saw, or teenter, as we called it. This often saw three or four boys and girls seated at each end, one brave spirit standing in the middle to balance, by stepping to one side or the other, as we rose and fell eight or ten feet in the air. The seats had backs, so that there was little danger of falling off. If we did fall, I cannot remember that we ever seriously hurt ourselves. Our favorite playhouse was an arbor. It was an eight- sided structure with broad seats and four wide entrances. It was latticed with wide spaces, forming beautiful climb- ing ladders. We used to climb higher than the opening entrances, then walk around the whole arbor, or we jumped from dizzy heights. It was within this arbor that father arranged for me a May-day party. The prettiest girl of our mates was chosen to be queen. She had blue eyes, curls which were the despair of the rest of us, a soft pink-and-white complexion. By means of her beauty this young lady ruled us, all of us simply begging to do her will, in order to win her especial notice. Her discipline consisted of the fateful words, “You mean thing, I never will play with you again as long as I live.”” One who was thus banished from her favor felt alone and unhappy. It is strange how children adore beauty and submit to the spoiled one’s whims. The following is an “essay” written and read in school, on “The Pleasures of May ’”’: May is one of the months of the year, and a beautiful one itis. It has many pleasures, some of which I will name. It has many flowers, and children love to pick them. The grass is generally green, and the great oak trees make a beautiful shade, the lambs also are gamboling and playing. We hear and see birds, some are blue, some red, and some all colors. It is a beautiful sight to see the flowers peeping through the garden fences. There is a great variety of colors, and they look more lively than if they were all of one color. Sometimes we have a beautiful shower, and then a rainbow, then the flowers look fresh, the grass looks greener, and the trees hang with shining drops. The spring of water gives us beautiful drinks which refresh us. Ought we not to be thankful for so many pleasures? I think so. = us all try to do good since God does so much.to make us appy- Industry Replaces Nature Eee my father’s death the dear home was sold, and strangers lived there. The old orchard of forty or fifty grand old trees, in which birds built ‘many nests and our bees often swarmed, has been cut up into building lots. Every tree there was planted and affectionately watched by my father. I knew as well as he which tree bore as- trachans,- which golden sweets, which greenings, russets, pippins, and “‘spitzes.” A trolley line runs now at the foot of our hill, and the big chestnut trees which grew on the bank are gone. The mills have multiplied and are filled with foreign-looking workers. The splendid waterfall which used to drive them has been put aside for steam, and only a small stream now trickles over the rocks where once you could not stand without getting drenched with spray. The fearsome, dark grove which we named Jimmy Bell’s Park, where I used to pick the mayflower (trailing arbutus), is now seamed with crossing and recrossing paths made by the “hands” going rome and returning to their work.

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¢ A Story: T is a startling, soul-wrenching thing to discover that one is a nonentity. A woman may have quite clearly recognized the fact that she is not brilliant and have accepted it as her lot and destiny to always make one of the chorus; yet such is the majesty of life, of which she is a pulse, that it will be impossible for her, under normal conditions, to ever regard herself as a negligible atom of the universe. To find that others do so has the effect of a spiritual earthquake. It shakes the foundations which she has always taken for granted. _ Mrs. Townsend was truly modest, but she had never realized that she was wrapped in obscurity, as in a cloak of invisibility, until she went to the Biennial Meeting of the General Federation of Women’s Clubs, held at Water- bury, and she had not really admitted the situation to her- self until that breakfast incident on the morning of the fourth day. There were two other women wearing Federation badges at another table in the café, when she came down to her own silent and solitary meal, and she recognized them with a thrill of pleasure. She had been casually: intro- duced to them the day before, between the sessions of the Biennial. When, a few minutes later, they pushed back their chairs and rose, Mrs. Townsend looked up with shy hopefulness. They must pass her table in leaving the café. They would at least bow. But they didn’t. “‘Are you going to this luncheon affair?”’ one of them was asking, as they approached. “Oh, of course. I’m taking in everything going,’”’ the other answered, gaily. Their laughing eyes rested upon Mrs. Townsend without seeing her, and they went upon their cheerful way. Mrs. Townsend choked upon the dry toast, which it suddenly seemed impossible to swallow, and a salt tear splashed into her coffee-cup. They had not recognized her. They had not even seen her. RS. TOWNSEND was the secretary of the Ludington Ladies’ Literary Society, and by some accident of fortune, perhaps directed by the remorse of the Literary Ladies at having put all the hard work upon her for years, she was named as a delegate (at her own expense) to the Biennial. At first the honor had rather taken her breath. It would be wonderful to go, but—it was almost too won- derful. There were a thousand things to consider before con- science would admit that the way was clear. “‘Of course you must go,” said her husband, catching the undertones and overtones that danced around her per- fectly calm statement of the appointment. ‘The trip will do you good.” ‘ “But the railroad fare—and everything?” “‘We’ll manage,” he said, kindly, reading her unspoken longing with the ease of experience. They had been married fifteen years, and language be- tween them had shifted from its primal condition of being The Obscure Mrs. ownsend Illustrations by Lucius Hitchcock a necessity of intercourse into being merely a convenience. “‘We’ll manage somehow. You accept.” The managing fell chiefly to her, of course, and it was in- tricate. A dozen times she had been tempted to give up the project. To stay at home would be so much simpler and easier. But she had been held to her purpose by an undefined feeling that to abandon it now would be to con- fess herself unequal to her opportunity. George had en- couraged her going, her boys. were openly boastful about it, the Literary Ladies were pleasantly envious and con- gratulatory. And—of course it would be wonderful! So the rising tide had finally floated her to Waterbury— and there had left her stranded. Ludington was a friendly little village in a homely Middle State. Waterbury was a city, and the Biennial was a jam. After three days of it, Mrs. Townsend was bewildered, nervously tired, homesick, and lonesome. Nobody had paid the slightest personal attention to her. She had been pulled and pushed into her allotted niche as a delegate, and then, naturally, had been left to look out for herself. But she didn’t know how to do it. HE had selected an inexpensive hotel from the accredited list, only to find afterward that no one else had gone there. Everywhere else, at the Auditorium, in the streets, in the cafés and restaurants, there were groups and knots of badged women, old acquaintances meeting, new acquain- tances making, officials and speakers and delegates and correspondents mingling in the ordered confusion of an intricate evolution; but so far as this variegated, interesting social intercourse touched her, she might have been deaf, dumb, and invisible. The only person who seemed even to remember her name was the fluffy-haired, incompetent young girl, who acted as usher in her section of the Auditorium. She was “out 113 Lily A. Long of’’ everything. The whole business of the Biennial was so much stranger and bigger than anything she had imagined that she was simply submerged in its rush. Perhaps, worst of all, her natural shyness had been deepened by a sharp realization that her clothes, which in Ludington had seemed adequate, if not especially nice, were here only good enough to escape being conspicuous for shabbiness. As the days had gone by she had come to feel more and more like an atom, until on that morning, when the tear splashed into her coffee-cup, it seemed that she simply couldn’t stand it any-longer. Mightn’t she slip away and take the next train home? They would never notice! She held the thought daringly for a moment. But— George would know that something had gone wrong, and would make her own up; and the boys would wonder; and the Ladies’ Literary—no, it wouldn’t do. A delegate had responsibilities. There was to be an election on the morrow. She drew a hard breath and pulled her courage together. She must see the week through. HE “luncheon” to which the oblivious women had referred so lightly was a complimentary affair given by the local committee to all visiting delegates. When the hour came, Mrs. Townsend drifted toward the banquet- room in a hesitating frame of mind. To find her place, if, indeed, a place had been made for her; to sit beside over- powering strangers, whom she would never have the courage to address, and meditate upon her own insignificance—it all loomed before her imagination as an ordeal. Would it be worth while? But the fluffy-haired usher, whose inconsequent blunder- ings had widely extended her acquaintance with club wom- en during the past few days, caught sight of her, and hurried eagerly forward. “Oh, Mrs. Townsend, let me help you find your place! I know where it is—I just saw your place-card. You are right next to Mrs. Story, and she’s Jovely.” “Thank you,” said Mrs. Townsend, with relief and gratitude. The usher led the way triumphantly to the head table at the end of the banquet-room, where a few guests, whom Mrs. Townsend recognized as among the “notables,”’ were already seated. Others were standing about, discussing elec- tion matters. Mrs. Townsend sank thankfully into the chair before the card that bore her name, and stole a glance at the card before the vacant place on her left. It really did have Mrs. Story’s name, she saw with a thrill of subdued excitement. Mrs. Story was a prominent member of the local com- mittee, and was, moreover, a candidate for vice-president at the pending election. Mrs. Townsend had seen and admired her on the platform, and had already decided that she liked her green toque better than the purple ostrich tips of the rival candidate, Mrs. Forsythe. She leaned

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Yeo Harper's : Bazar March : 1913 Oy 114 Dr back contentedly in her chair and waited for events to transpire. a= were transpiring at that moment in the anteroom. Mrs. Story had just emerged from a private telephone booth, thunder on her brow and a lightning spark in her eve. She had been called a minute before to the telephone, where Mrs. Belinda Townsend, of San Francisco (an im- portant and influential lady, whose fame really ought to have penetrated even to Ludington), had regretted so much to inform her that it would be impossible for her to attend the luncheon, as she was suffering from a slight headache, and feared the close room might make it worse, and Mrs. Forsythe had kindly offered to take her out for a spin in the country, which would be much better for her head, and would Mrs. Story please forgive her? Mrs. Forsythe, indeed! No difficulty in reading the cipher in that play! And, indeed, no wonder that the thunder cloud rested visibly on Mrs. Story’s brow when she emerged from the booth. But Ethel, the pretty usher, was not an ex- pert in storm-signals. She came up with the fluttering com- placency of the successful. “Mrs. Townsend is here,” she announced. ‘I was on the lookout for her. I caught her at once and took her to your table.’ Mrs. Story did not speak for a moment. Her air of deliberation often served her well. Two women who were just entering the banquet-room heard Ethel’s remark, and turned for an instant. Then they exchanged a significant look. Mrs. Story caught the look and translated it instantly and accurately. They knew now that she had schemed to have Belinda Townsend at her table. Perhaps they knew of that slight, but effective manipula- tion of the place-card, which was to bring the influential delegate from San Francisco to the side of the magnetic candidate for vice-president. “Thank you, Ethel,’’ she said, lazily, to the usher. “Where did you say you placed her?” “At your right—there, at the head table. See? In brown.” “Oh yes.” It was, indeed, easy enough to pick her out, for she was the only woman at the table whom Mrs. Story did not know. “I'll goupina minute. There’s something I must look after first.” HE utilized the minute by repairing to an adjoining room and rapidly consulting a card list of the accredited delegates. “Mrs. Belinda Townsend, San Francisco (oh, I under- stand what that headache means). Mrs. Edwina Eedyson Townsend, Ludington (thank goodness her name really is Townsend), secretary Ladies’ Literary Society. Odd name. For her father, of course. Haven’t I seen the name of Edwin Eedyson somewhere?” Mrs. Story was not a politician for nothing or by chance. She sent her trained memory on a swift quest, and it brought the answer faith- fully. ‘Oh, that first book of grammar I ever studied— or was it algebra? No, grammar. His name was on the title-page.” She slipped the cards back into place and repaired to the banquet-room, which now was well filled. The center, as | always, of interested attention, she made her leisurely way to her plac e beside Mrs. Townsend, and held out a cordial hand. “So glad you were not engaged to some other table, Mrs. Townsend. Every one is so busy, we just have to snatch at what we want, and I do want a chance to tell you what your books have meant to me. I am not mis- taken, am I? You are the daughter of the famous Edwin Eedyson, are you not?” “Why—that wa name,” father’s my father’ aid Mrs. Townsend, a pink spot coming in either cheek. That her father, who had penta dis- couraged life trying to keep the Luding- ton High School chil- dren from slaughter- ing their mother- should be known out here in world—it was too incredible. “You mean that little word-book of his?” she faltered. “T thought I could not be mistaken,” said Mrs. _ Story, warmly. “TI never had the privilege of | meeting your father, tongue, the great but his books—oh, I have studied them! Faithfully! Mrs. Sprague—Mrs. Waldo—I want you to meet Mrs. Townsend. She is the secretary of the Ludington Ladies’ Literary Society, you know, but more important than that, I have discovered that she is a daughter of Edwin Eedyson, the distinguished educator, whom we are all so proud to honor.” Mrs. Sprague and Mrs. Waldo were the two women who had smiled significantly at Ethel’s innocent betrayal of Mrs. Story’s commission. T was an _ enchanted : hour that followed. | Mrs. Waldo and Mrs. Sprague were both charm- ing, there were more in- troductions, and Mrs. Townsend discovered that these clever women, whom she had watched with admiring awe on the plat form, were as simple and cordial on the personal side as any Ludington neighbor could be. And she blossomed in the pleasant atmosphere, as shy natures will, and unconsciously won as gen- uine an admiration as she gave. | “You are interested in pictures?” Mrs. Waldo | exclaimed, at some re- | mark she made. ‘Have gallery yet?” Mrs. Townsend did not even know that there was an Enslow gallery. “Oh, it’s a _ private gallery, of course, but quite uncommonly good | —famous for its early Corots. I’m sure you would enjoy it. must let me give you a card.”” And she scribbled a line on her visiting-card. ‘‘That will admit you, and any friend you may care to take with you.” Mrs. Townsend did not know that money could not buy admission to the Enslow gallery, but later, when she saw the enthusiastic gratitude with which her shy invitation was accepted by the pretty girl-usher, she began to realize the nature of the privilege represented by Mrs. Waldo’s card, and her account of the Enslow gallery made the star afternoon of the following year’s programme for the Ladies’ Literary. Just at the end of the luncheon Mrs. Story turned to her and put a quick hand on hers. “They are going to photograph us,” she said. be startled. me ) flashlight.” There was a blind- | ing flash and then a stifling smoke, and | with laughter and chatter the lunchers flowed from the room ina stream of pretty gaiety. But now Mrs. | | you been to the Enslow } | = 5 “Don’t It’s a “or = ; Townsend was an in- take = timate part of the three, | life that filled the she | place. The cloak of said, invisibility had mys- teriously dropped from her shoulders, and she met smiling glances and bows of recognition as she drifted toward the | door. There the pretty Ethel caught her. “TIsn’t Mrs. Story lovely?” she demand- ed, with girlish en- thusiasm. “Oh, she is,’’ Mrs. Townsend answered, warmly. ‘‘I hope she gets the election.” recklessly HE did, as the event proved, by the narrow margin of four votes. One of these was cast by Edwina Eedyson Townsend, of Lud- ington, who was moved by motives of the barest par- tisanship, and who dismissed the claims of the rival candidate without even pre- tending to give them | any consideration. Another was cast, as it happened, by Mrs. “Mrs. Sprague, Mrs. Waldo—I want you to meet a Mrs. Townsend ” —EN Belinda Townsend, who had come back from Mrs. Forsythe’s automobile ride with an aggravated headache and a fre+- ful feeling that her insistent hostess was somehow respon- sible for it. The two remaining votes may be accounted for by a brief conversation which took place between Mrs. Sprague and Mrs. Waldo. “I’m not sure that I won’t vote for Mrs. Story, after all,” said Mrs. Sprague. ‘She is more human and warm- hearted than I gave her credit for being. See how gracious she was to that obscure Mrs. Townsend, just be- cause she knew some- thing about her father, whom no one else ever heard of. Nothing calcu- lating about that.” Mrs. Waldo smiled. “T’m not sure the warmth was exactly spontaneous, but the ability to grasp a situation and turn it to account is quite as valu- \ able a qualification for a | presiding officer as warm- | heartedness. Yes, I think | she'll do.” That made four. On the last day of the Biennial, the photogra- pher brought proofs of the flashlight photograph of the banquet-room. With her heart beating queerly, Mrs. Townsend | examined it. There, at the head table, among all the celeb- rities, with Mrs. Story’s smiling face turned toward her, and Mrs. Story’s hand laid familiarly upon her own, sat Edwina Eedyson Townsend. In | the dazzle that danced | over it and half obliterat- ed the picture she saw the whimsical smile with which George would try to mask his pride in her, she saw a vacant space on the wall in the boys’ room, she saw the Literary Ladies crowding together to examine it— “T'll take—three!” she said, recklessly. A The Affinities By John Kendrick Bangs I know, my Heart, that in some far-off age, Before this world sprang from chaotic strife, Both you and I on some primeval stage Together faced the woes and joys of life. Not two, but One were we, back there in space, When You were I, and I was You, in truth, Through chaos rushing in the seething race, In union blest as now are Love and Youth. I know it as I know on this rare night That yonder stars that corruscate on high Are fair to see, and with their golden light The arching vault of Heaven glorify. I know it as I know that love is sweet. "Tis sure to me as that the sun will rise And on the morrow once again will greet The dawning day with hints of Paradise. | knew it when first on this joyous earth We met, and felt again the wondrous thrill, With which Love weaves the moment of rebirth Of something lost in far-off days of ill. ’Twas like a coming home to one whose days In wandering and weariness were spent, To find amid the once accustomed ways A perfect bliss and unalloyed content.

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The Revolt of the Farmer’s Wife By MARTHA BENSLEY BRUERE and ROBERT BRUERE V. The Waste of Old Women HE monthly bulletin of the Department of Health of the City of New York for September, 1912, bears the motto: ‘Public health is pur- chasable. Wa2thin natural limitations, a com- munity can determine its own death rate.” ‘This, being interpreted, means that as many of us as the community chooses can live to be old. Of course there will be new laws to pass, new sanitary regulations to enforce, new microbes to circumvent, new discoveries to make before we can all expect to be grandparents. But the question is, will it pav? For old men and old women can be either valuable assets to a community, or millstones about its neck. As far as we have got with our civilization, old men seem more valuable than old women, because more occupations that do not require physical strength are open to them. Farmers’ wives particularly, who pass their lives in house- keeping, unalloyed and unbroken, have little to turn to when their physical strength declines. The best use we have found for them is to make them household ornaments. \ man once told us that it was a perpetual pleasure to think that wherever he might be in the hard struggle of life, there was his mother sitting by the fireside, a lovely decoration, safe at home on the farm. It is well that some one enjoyed it; but sitting by the fireside is a dissipation which may be carried too far, and as for keeping an elderly woman constantly at this devastating pastime for the mental com- fort of her offspring, it seems rather hard on the woman and of doubtful benefit to the world. In the cities where the margin of human waste is being cut down by all sorts of efficiency methods, and where there are so many needs for so many different sorts of work, the waste of old women is receiving a perceptible check. Not only is the community growing peevish at being expected to support so many drones, but the women themselves are refusing to be shelved. The process has gone so far that it ha become happily difficult in town to know who are the young and who are the old women. DEAR old friend of ours, Mrs. Calder, had reached the grandmother stage when we were children, but she would have bitterly resented being treated as old. Her little white house, which had become embedded in a sud- denly inflated city, was the first salon we ever knew. She was the perfect hostess, and the perfect hostess she must have been for sixty years. One becomes practised in such things after so long a time; and her pleasant little drawing- room was the gathering place of people of all ages with all sorts of interests. It was an embryonic socia! center for the improvement of the rising generation. One special afternoon stands out when a scientist told our half-grown selves about some new discoveries in the forms of snow crystals; another when a gipsy violinist re- cited his wanderings and dropped bits of melody into the story, like illustrations in a book; and once there was an Irish politician; and once a Siberian exile. There was noth- ing prearranged about these occasions, they just seemed to happen; but we who walked about upon Mrs. Calder’s beflowered carpets got a sense of the interchange of ideas and the flow of world forces. Mrs. Calder was an old woman who was not wasted. Though she made nothing tangible, produced nothing that was bought or sold, she was a com- munity asset to her last day. But there is plenty of tangible work to be done by our city grandmothers—work that is paid for in money as we'll as in gratitude. In Chicago, for instance, lives a Mrs. Powers, a handsome, upright, gray-haired woman, who, when her children were grown and her grandchildren were an annually appearing crop, refused to consider sitting by the fireside a sufficient occupation. All her life she had been a splendid housekeeper. She knew all the tricks of the market; the pranks of stoves; and the unexplained acts of cookery were no mystery to her. And when it was no longer necessary for her to keep house for herself, she simp'y en- larged her radius and went into it asa business. If any one Was giving a dinner, Mrs. Powers would plan and purchase and oversee it, and it would appear upon the table perfect to the last detail. For this service she used to charge any- where between four and ten dollars, dependent on the arduousness of the work. Instead of spending what the world called her declining years in clasping reluctant grand- children to a protecting bosom, she pressed the last ounce of joy out of an industrious life. Now both of these women were mothers and grand- mothers of families, sufficiently well-to-do so that the need to earn money was not imperative with them. And they Were remarkable only in this —that they refused to be robbed of the joy of service and industry and independence. Fortunately for them, they lived in cities where many occu- pations were open to them, and they were able to do more kinds of things than wash and iron, scrub and sew, cook and clean, that depend on physical strength only. Even if the grasshopper had become a burden and the caperberry had failed, they were able to shift for themselves. They claimed the right to die gloriously in harness like their hus- bands. And we were all the better for the things they did, as we could never have been better for the years they might | Photographed in Indiana | No waste here } | HE is a Quakeress and celebrated her one hundred and second | birthday last July. She lives alone with her daughter (seen | also in the picture) who is now seventy-five. While we were in her home a procession of young and middle-aged neighbors dropped in, for she seemed to be the mother-confessor of the | neighborhood, and her advice was earnestly sought on many | matters of business and personal relations. One was an auc- | tioneer, another a school-teacher. She is a strong and helpful influence in her community. She told us she would not write, | adding, “‘I’m sorry I stopped five or six years ago, because I find that as soon as you drop a thing it’s hard to take it up again. f[ am not going to drop anything else that I do.” have sat sadly by the fire (or gas log) in lace cap and ker- chief. HE uses of that lace cap, by the way, tell the whole story of the change that is taking place in the lives of our city grandmothers. Some months ago we went into a millinery shop in a New York country village, and saw a little old milliner pull out from the shelf a box of old ladies’ caps of black or white lace, rarely enlivened by a touch of violet ribbon, for a little old woman who sat outside on the back seat of a springless farin wagon. Within a few weeks we went into one of the big department stores in New York, and, out of curiosity, asked for lace caps. “Third floor, first aisle to the right,’’ said the floor- walker. And up we went. “Caps?” said we. “Certainly,”’ said the girl, and led us to wonderful crea- tions of lace and muslin and ribbons and flowers. “Boudoir caps,’”’ she remarked. “But these are for young women?” “Of course,” she said, wondering. ‘It’s the only kind we keep.”” And we went away satisfied. The lace cap of tradition has been sent to the museum by our city grandmothers; but in the country it still crowns the heads of countless old ladies, dooms them to a dreary old age, makes them an unwilling brake upon progress. In the country the waste of old women goes on almost un- checked. We found one of these millstone grandmothers timorously traveling from one Wisconsin town to another. She was escorted to the train by a daughter and a grandson. She was wrapped in a long black coat quite suitable to Decem- ber, though it was the last of May, and a depressed black bonnet was tied under her chin. Her satchels were brought in; a large lunch basket was put beside her, and a glass of water; the car window was carefully lowered and fastened before the train started, and her devoted relatives bade her an anxious farewell. We sat directly behind her, and were at first moved to pity that any one so helpless should be forced to travel alone. But helpless! Far from it! —_——e _ One Way that You Can Help | If you or any one you know has cut down the drudgery, tell us how it was done. If you’ve found a way to get the sort of | education you need to make you an efficient farm woman, write | and tell us what it is and where you got it. Write and tell us | what is happening in your county. We'd like to send your news along to others and other people’s news along to you. If we print your letters in The Bazar, they will be paid for at the regular rate, and if you don’t want your name used, we will keep it to ourselves. We cannot correspond with you, however, } unless we have your real name and address. Send your letters | to Mr. and Mrs. Robert W. Bruere, Harper’s Bazar, Franklin Square, New York City No sooner had the train started than the warm summer breeze came in, and the black bonnet persuaded the con- ductor to have all the windows closed because she could not stand a draught. And the whole car sweltered in silence. Then she took out the lunch basket and began to eat, stead- ily, industriously, and, so far as one could judge, success- fully—ate bananas and oranges and other odorous things that simmered in the hot car as in an oven. And then she turned and asked us if we would get her a drink of water, and we went to the end of the car and fetched it. And then she took off the depressed black bonnet and wanted it hung up, and we hung it up for her, and saw that she was bald and unashamed. And then a harmless and _ inoffensive clergyman came wandering down the aisle, and she en- snared him with sudden recognition and got him seated beside her to hear about the pain in her side, and her con- viction that the world was growing steadily worse. It seemed that one of her sons had not been to see her for a long time, and she felt that this was unfilial; and a daughter had followed ker own matrimonial inclinations, which she considered a personal grievance. She had a whole list of claims on society not balanced by one single thing that she was doing for it, and when she finally got off after an ago- nizing hour and a half of travel, we were surprised to hear her say, ‘Yes, | am sixty-four, and I may not live through another winter.’’ And then, strong and able-bodied, she was assisted from the train, and her lunch basket and her satchels and her umbrella and her shaw! were handed out to her, and the parasitic, useless social millstone rolled on. — F course, neither we nor any one else in the car thought this at the time. The traditional attitude of mind was strong within us. We meekly stifled behind the shut windows, and trotted back and forth with glasses of water, and deferentially lugged baggage down the aisle. We were miserable — the carful of us—but we didn’t expect any more of her than she expected of herself. And no doubt she was miserable, too. It was only after the windows had shot up one after an- other down tlie length of the car, and the good May breeze had driven out the smell of that hour and a half of lunch, that we could look at that black bonnet without preju- dice. “Sixty-four,” said we. ‘‘What’s sixty-four! to have thirty years of work and joy in her yet And as more fresh air came in, and more clear thoughts with it, we realized that this unwittingly selfish millstone grandmother was as inevitably the product of the home- bound country thought as chickens are of eggs. For what we country people do now to old women is very like what the Eskimos do to their old men—we abandon them, not to be devoured by wolves or frozen, to be sure, not to any immediate physical death; we simply drop them on the door- step of a sort of artificial solitude. We maroon them on an island of Death in Life. We say to one another: “Don’t tell mother about the bank failure. It will worry her.” “Let us not bother Auntie with Freddie’s measles.” “Annie, stop screaming like that. Your grandmother wil! hear you. I'll put a rag on your sore finger my- self.” We force the old women of the country into a Nirvana, a land without a future or a past; and with the tenderest intentions, we rob them of their right to all the interests, good and bad, which the world holds for us. We soothe our souls and say to ourselves, ‘‘Grandmother is comfort- able and content.’’ We very rarely ask if grandmother is useful and happy. But even on the farms and in the little villages grand- mother is in an incipient state of rebellion, and the first step in her rebellion against adorning the fireside is the same as in her daughter’s rebellion against drudgery, isolation, and ignorance—running away to the city. She ought “Here is my story,” writes one of these revolters. ‘‘We moved from a good New England farm to a college town of ten thousand, amid many and loud protestations from relatives and neighbors alike, together with prophecies of evil to come. But I think this last put determination into my backbone. I had never given up studying, reading the best literature, digesting what I did read, and this non- corroding process proved to be our educational and financial salvation. A gone-to-seed brain could never have rallied to the stress, but I found myself equipped then and there with an earning power of the concrete dollar. I acted asa sort of private secretary to the President of the College, serving meantime as assistant to the Superintendent of the City Schools. This for five years. I substituted in offices during vacations, and was commissioned to visit the schools of Greater New York, to investigate how they taught picture-study. I grew info a good paying salary, my busi- ness taking me from coast to coast—an education in itself. Not until two years ago did I stop long enough to awake to the fact that the children were all gone. Well, that was the hardest experience of all the strenuous years. It came near crushing me. But I took on a few new interests, changed my course a bit, and the machinery slipped no cog. I am now (February, 1912) getting ready to take a short, winter course at the college where both my sons graduated years ago. “‘A good-sized check comes to us often from a far city, speaking of love as well as dollars. I sometimes find an envelope in my morning’s mail, or in a book, or in my desk, with substantial contents. Once in my bed—I slept all night without discovering it, much to the merriment of the

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116 Harper's : Bazar March : 1913 LOY FOR 5er dear ones interested—an envelope containing a big handful of five-dollar gold pieces. And so it goes! ‘Father and mother have a new little home now,’ they say, ‘where, per- haps, they can be quiet and rest.’ Perhaps, but I doubt it. I am not at alt sure that I desire it. Activity has be- come a habit.” HAT a wonderful record! To have achieved the habit of usefulness in old age instead of the habit of dependence! But stirring as her record is, this farmer's wife solved the problem of wasted old age only by running away from the farm. Hers was purely a personal solution. No swiftness of foot can solve the problem of wasted grand- It is not the women who run away, but the women who fight with their normal environments who svlve the problem for us all. Somebody has got to batter down the door between the country grandmother and usefulness, even if bones are mothers any more than it can the binomial theorem. broken in the process. That heavy door at which so many have beat in vain is made up largely of public opinion, as expressed through family tradition. It has shut many times in front of Mrs. Scott, a farmer’s wife who is living protestingly with her daughter’s family in eastern Nebraska. She was a New York farmer’s daughter who married a farmer’s son and went to Kansas. There she worked and lived and brought up a family, and now that they are grown and independent, he has wanted all her life—independence and freedom to do as she chooses. She has, unfortunately, no money of her own, and only such training as no wife can go through life without acquiring. But again and again she has broken away from what is expected of a grandmother. Once she dashed into Minneapolis and started a boarding-house, which gave all her descendants the keenest pain. In another city she got a position in a hospital, overseeing the kitchen. “Just think,” said a granddaughter, almost in tears, “of grandmother actually working for wages! Why, her place is with Aunt Gertrude, of course, or, if she doesn’t like that, with Uncle Arthur. It is perfectly outrageous for her go about wearing herself out as And again and again her kinsfolks have stopped her in what they call her for one grand- mother can be quite easily blocked by ten or a dozen able- bodied and energetic descendants and descendants-in-law. As though she were really working for wages! She is work- ing for freedom and for a chance to live, and for the poor little struggling rerhains of her vanished youth. Last year we attended some meetings of the federated f a Western state. There was a startling absence of young women. Middle-aged women or over they all were—chiefly And they were the wives and mothers and grandmothers of farmers. As we listened to the reports, we found that they were supervising their dis- trong hand on the railroads, bring- he is trying to secure for herself what farmer s she doe Ps to “working for wages” women’s clubs « over. trict schools, holding a ing pressure to bear on the nearest market town, so that the conditions under which they bought their meat and vegetables and fruits should be at least sanitary. Insome places they were making special studies of the utilization of water power, with the view of converting it into cheap electric light. In other places they were helping to organize co-operative cream: dries. And they were working for good roads water-supplies and cheaper prices, and trying valiantly to solve the problems of the larger housekeeping which goes on outside the home. W* drifted about among them, and asked where their daughters and granddaughters were. Their an- swers all had the same meaning. The granddaughters were in ries and projecting co-operative laun- and better school. The daughters were at home with their chil- dren. “No,” said one elderly woman, who had been spending the winter in the East and had just come back to her home, ““my daughter can’t be spared from home. She’s got three children under seven, and her housekeeping to manage besides. You know it’s almost impossible to get help in a farmer’s family.” And another grandmother said that her descendants hadn't even time to be interested, and that it was only after she was freed from harassing household cares that she had had time to think about other things. Less than a genera- tion ago it would have been taken for granted that these grandmothers, lace-capped and kerchiefed, would stay at home and mind the babies and the housekeeping and let their daughters go to the meetings. But times have changed. It is the young wives who are beginning to wear the boudoir caps, and their mothers to wear the hats. The revolt is steadily growing. Because a woman is gray, because she is no longer able to preside at the washtub or the bread-board is no reason should be pushed either into idleness or into work that is distasteful to her. Out in Illinois we visited the farm of a young American farmer whose mother lived with him. We had heard that Mrs. Loomis the elder was an interesting woman, but we had been prepared for a sort of quiet, sit-by-the-fireside creature, of whom one says, ‘‘ How sweet your mother is!’’ We were not expecting to see a vigorous, laughing, gray- haired woman raking grass on the front lawn. She took us into the house by way of the new. chicken - yard, and showed us the wonderful sanitary hen-coops. “It seemed to me,” she said, ‘that it wasn’t right to have chickens in a place that couldn’t be kept just as clean as a baby’s crib. So I saw the advertisement of these, looked them up, and now we have twelve. See how they come apart,” and turned a screw, taking off the she said she, top of the cheese-box-like thing of galvanized iron, and showed us all the fluffy little yellow balls within. “You see these can all be taken apart and scalded out every day. ” ND then she took us indoors to call upon her daughter- in-law. Daughter-in-law was exceedingly busy. There was a baby in the carriage, there was a large farm kitchen with an enormous farm range. There was a small daughter of five, and a son a year or two older. Daughter-in-law had no time to be raking grass. We all sat down in the living- room and noticed with surprise the magazines, not farm magazines particularly, but magazines of general interest, women's literary magazines, and, curiously enough, some technical publications on electricity. “These,”’ said Mrs. Loomis, Sr., ‘I have been reading because I think we ought to plan some way of getting elec- magazines, tricity over here. There is no gas near enough; but I In Dreamland By Florence Earle Coates In Dreamland is a castle fair Wherein my love doth dwell: Its turrets waver into air From fields where asphodel And poppy keep not watch, but sleep ‘Neath an enchanter’s spell. Pale offspring of a starlit sky, One rose—for need like mine— Has overclimbed the ivies high, About her sill to twine, And there, abloom, with rare perfume Makes exquisite her shrine. Still, night by night, the wondrous bird That is not seen by day Thrills, with my heart’s unspoken word, Those mystic turrets gray— High-heavened above, sings to my love His yearning roundelay. Ah, would that I, through tender gloom Up-mounting, lover-wise, Might find her in the fragrant room, Her virgin paradise, | Might, for one night, behold the light In her entranced eyes! But neither shall I lead her down | The steep and skyey stair, Nor find her here, in the dull town, The sunlight on her hair; Yet could we meet, my heart would greet And know her anywhere! think we could get power from the river, and I am trying to find out about it. “Are you the ones,” said she, turning on us sudd nly, “‘who have been writing these?’”’ And she held up our Jast articles accusingly. “Well, then, what did you mean by this and this?” said she, snapping the leaves over and pointing. And we were instantly on the defensive, trying to justify every statement we had made. She was no mean examiner, and we are not at all sure that we came out ahead. And then, when she was bidding us good-by, she put out a quick hand. “Stop,” said she, ‘don’t go yet. I want you to see my new spring house.’’ And she took us down across a field to where a little white building had just risen above the stream, “lt is almost impossible to get ice here,” said she, “and so I have had this built. I thought that would be my part of the investment. And you see, the milking and weighing sheds are right here, and the milk can be kept cold over- night in the water and then loaded on the wagon that stops by early in the morning.” Mrs. Loomis had a healthy interest in her grandchildren and the work of the house, but a far more intense one in outside things. She was the channel through which new ideas came to the family. It was she who had time to lift her eyes from the farm drudgery and find out about the new sanitary hen-coops, and plan about getting electricity for the countryside, and having the spring house built. She was very busy with the things that did not take physical strength to accomplish. There are plenty of these women, one finds, when one looks for them. ’ HE State of Ilinois conducts a two weeks’ domestic- science school every year in connection with the state fair. There are accommodations for a hundred and two pu- pils, one from each county in the state, who are given tuition free. The school was established in 1899, and the instruc- tion covers not only what is ordinarily known as domestic science, but daily lectures on personal hygiene, sanitation, care of the sick, home emergencies, and various kindred topics. The course was planned as a supplement to the school system, and at first there were no age limits. The work was practically being monopolized by elderly women, grandmothers eager for some outlet for their energies! There are two grandmothersliving near each other out- side an Eastern village. They have taken on their shoulders the needs of the township in which they live. They have helped to organize a town library. They are continually agitating for lecture courses and lyceum entertainments in the town. They have helped to get a fire department with a chemical engine that can speed over the hill roads, and they seem to spend their lives in hunting for new things which that town ought to have. They are not trying for any social distinction themselves. They are simply striv- ing to broaden their old function of housekeepers to cover the whole neighborhood. They are working for good roads, for the utilization of the natural gas that has been found in the neighborhood, for the consolidation of the churches, for the beginning of an historical museum where relics of the neighborhood can be preserved. And they are doing work which the younger women, with the cares of their house- holds upon them, have not time for. Of course it is their freedom, the freedom of age, which makes it possible for them to do these things, and somehow it is keeping them young. They do not dress the part of old ladies. They absolutely ignore the convention that nothing is expected of them. And as for the inertia of the stiff joint, apparently it has not descended upon them. They are refusing to get off the stage of life. They do not, feel any obligation to retire into the wings, and for that reason they are perhaps the most valuable citizens in the township. HE time for the farmer’s wife to revolt against the waste of her old age is while she is yet young—while she has strength to make her revolt effective. time for her to say: “T will not wear my body out with unnecessary drudgery!” And back up her words with every labor-saving device she can command, from the rearrangement of the house itself to the latest thing in cherry-stoners. And she must say: “T will not be ignorant!’’ And make her refusal effective through work for every force that can bring her information, from school to magazine. She must refuse isolation, and work for the good roads and the trolley systems and the social organizations and church affiliations that will bring her in contact with people. She must insist on heaith, and put through the sanitary improvements that further it. And these things she must do together—thousands work- ing as one, because there is no other way. She must make herself into many things besides a housekeeper. She must develop qualities and abilities that will be useful when her physical strength begins to ebb, and she must so change the country itself and the conditions of farm life that she may have opportunities to use the new abilities she creates. Public health is purchasable. Within natural limita- tions, a community can, indeed, determine its own death rate. In the long run, about as many of us as the com- munity chooses can live to old age. But why should the community choose to multiply the number of old women if they are to be millstones about the necks of the rising generation, and the years that are spared them are wasted? HIS is the final article telling of the wonderful strides toward pros- perity, health, and happiness which the farmer's wife has made. There have been still more important developments since Mr. and Mrs Bruere traveled in many states to prepare “* The Revolt of the Farmer's Wife” articles. Announcement of a striking new series will be made in an early number of The Bazar.—The Editors. That is the a

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trying lenly, ir Jast ” aid u tify Niner, And quick © my eld to ream, “and 7 part ghing ( ver- stops HF ili mt days ildren ne in 1 new o lift e new y for She ysical men, € stic- state 10 pu- tition truc- 1estic ition, idred » the The derly their out- ilders have ually its in with , and hings g for striv- over oads, nd in s, for f the work \ \\V VG ouse- N \\ \ \ = ANC fT “ ASV S si) | WA | _—_ Sm) NNN pte | g e == e f the hem. ) not, that n the the while s the ory!” e she itself ctive ition, r¢ ads and ople. itary work- nake must n her e the may ; a nita- 4 leath 5 ee ee Sa al com- THIRD IN THE BAZAR’S SERIES OF WOOD-ENGRAVING MASTERPIECES i the ENGRAVED BY C. ROBERTS ymen ising ° ° ° “a Simplicity made After the painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds made This series began in the January Number. The fourth, “ Playing the Zither,” after the painting by Alice Barber Stephens, will be printed in the next Bazar

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is that there is no such thing as a ‘“‘society woman.” be aptly and correctly used in connection with an association engaged in crime, such as the Camorra. By common use in Harriman this country it is applied to those women who are possessed of a good income and who can choose their own friends. Shifting about for material, the sensational journalist has created an atmosphere of mystery about the comings and goings of Mrs. Brown and Mrs. Jones, their entertainments and their pastimes. With extreme agility of mind and great descriptive skill the Sunday newspaper writer depicts some ‘“‘function”’ as an Arabian Night’s tale. The same amount of purely creative dramatic genius applied to the story of a christening on New York’s East Side will produce a far more interesting piece of reading. ™ In other words, when we get “‘behind the scenes’”’ in so-called society we find just men and women. From in front of the footlights the golden-haired heroine often retires to ascertain how the baby’s cold is. The much-heralded “society leader”’ of such and such a town is to-day often a busy woman of affairs with her attention focused upon civic and even national matters. This woman has an office, a secretary, and a private business telephone, and a knowledge of affairs superior to that of the small business man who limits himself to his own industrial field. Naturally there are exceptions. There is the utterly idle woman who simply amuses herself. She is so hopelessly in the minority, however, that she is a negligible quantity in the general scheme of things. Let us repeat, then, at the outset that a ‘society woman,’’ one who devotes her time, mind, and entire effort to ‘‘society,” is rapidly becoming extinct. ITH maturity comes a recognition of the difference between pastime and duty. It is an interesting fact that the difference between big men and big women in these days is the dividing-line of necessity for labor and desire to labor. The big man is obliged to work in order to protect his interests. The big woman creates interests, goes out and gets into the game. Organized effort all over the world has simplified and improved industry to the point of practical perfection. The entrance of women into public life has brought an element of co-operation all its own. We find federations of clubs and state and national organizations of women. These organizations are based upon a recognition of the difference between pastime and duty. Information is available to all concerning the world’s needs, and in the hurry and strife of commercial battle women now go about taking care of those who have been swept aside. The substitution of real, telling work for mere amusement has had upen womanhood an uplifting influence that is just beginning to be understood. Not only does the effort to help others result in good to those for whom the work is done, but it brings power and ability to the worker. ‘To understand just what the work of busy women of large in- terests is like we must understand the work. We must know what is done, how it is done, and the kind of women who are doing it. Contrast the business woman of to-day with the Roman woman of wealth. The nearest approach to helpful work that obtained in those days of feminine glory and personal splendor was the infrequent flinging of a handful of coin to an indifferent mob of idle and unemotional poor. The chariot of the Roman patrician was drawn by animals brought from the ends of the earth. If the lady’s fancy was at all imperious she probably had from one to ten slave women, black and white, fastened to the chariot just to show how “ well off”? she was. Preceded by a guard and followed by a retinue the size of a small army, the lady took her afternoon drive, the sunlight flashing from the jewels upon her fingers and toes and roped around her neck. Cold, frightfully cruel in the majority of cases, utterly idle, this woman contributed nothing to her time. At her feet the Roman warrior laid the spoils of Europe. She was, so to speak, a shrine at which was offered tangible expression of the spirit of conquest. To her were brought gold, silver, silk, and jewels, wild animals, and precious human lives. Roman history is replete with stories of slaves murdered because of the uncertain tempers of their mistresses. This woman’s interests were big, very big. She had her eye upon a conquest in Britain and a love affair in Africa. Her wealth was quite material and her power undeniable. She did not, however, understand the art of helping others any more than did her lord, the Roman fighting-man. She is history’s brilliantly plumed lay figure playing her part in the story of time as the woman who put herself above every other issue in life. Fiction-writers have tried from time to time to breathe romance into her and to make her seem worth while. But fact, indifferent to romance, writes her down as colorless, almost without exception. GAIN, in the age of romance, we find woman a central object in her day. Knights ride about and proclaim her beauty. They stab at one another with giant spears because some woman has smiled upon them. The cold winds of winter stealing out of the wood fall mercilessly on the ragged bard singing beneath a window to beauty’s eyes. The whole world is beauty mad. And the sheer, net result of the whole occupation of both sexes is to leave the world unadvanced. The suffering are unrelieved, the ignorant still unedu- cated, the sick still uncured. Slowly, imperceptibly, under all this shifting change and stage-setting of life, woman worked her way to the surface as a thinking power. When the spirit of conquest and travel set the brain of Europe afire and new lands had been discovered to the world, woman placed her hand in that of man and followed, unafraid, into the uncleared forests. But the time was not yet ripe for the big work, and woman silently per- formed her part without appearing upon the surface of things. During this period Is the “Society Woman” J a Useless Person? “N HE VERY FIRST THING to be said on this subject By Mrs. J. set on the first day of that war the men knew that to the world “Society’’ is a general term which may be applied with equal accuracy to the poor and the rich. It may Borden had been given a new woman. With a courage that only the heart of a woman can summon, with immobile facefand a smile that spoke of infinite trust, this woman watched her hopes and her home march away from her. When the first cry for help came in she went out to the battle-field. The story has been told. It is not necessary to tell it again. In every family in this land there are those who recall it personally. And the thing that is recalled with the tenderest memory of all is the ministration of woman. Kindly time has effaced all save the beauty of brotherhood and the immortal legend of valor and has left us to-day only the battles of peace. It has left us,to-day the daughters and the granddaughters of these women. They are to the battle-fields of progress What their-elders were half a century ago to the battle-field of blood. They have heard the call for help from the wounded and the helpless in the great sociological battle, in the great economic conflict, and they have answered. The political arena to-day has witnessed the first effect of woman’s interest in governmental affairs in a national campaign. The raising of the standard of some of the issues was to a great degree traceable to this new element. Far more important than this field, however, is the direct work of women in their respective communities. From one end to the other of this land there is endless work to be done. The paid labor of women and children has to be looked into and safeguarded. This one thing in itself is a gigantic task. It requires the intelligent co-operation of every woman’s organization in the country, and that at least a part of its time be devoted to this subject alone. From time to time the press prints stories of particular hardships in some industry in which women and children are employed. There are so many things to take up the time of the public that the story is forgotten next day. Nothing is done, and women and children toil on as before under conditions that would be disgraceful even in the Congo. If one concerted effort were made by all the women throughout the country the whole thing would be changed overnight. HE sanitation of congested districts in great cities is a thing of importance to which it is impossible to give too great attention. In a household th® woman is housekeeper. Why should not the city have a woman house- keeper? How much longer is the world to wait for an intelligent organization of women, auxiliary to the city’s Board of Health, which will police and inspect sanitation in the homes of the poor as only women can? What of the food of the poor? The truth about the rotten food sold to the poor in any big city would cause consternation. An efficient force of women supervisors of incoming food in cities would wipe out this disgrace. The dangers of decom- posed fruit in summer, of unsanitary ice, of cold-storage food fed to children would be eliminated. There are so many things that are peculiarly women’s province in the care of civic affairs that the wonder is that the change has not come before. Take, as an example, the question of women delinquents, women who come into contact with the law. Many are young girls. Much good has been accomplished by having women employed, wherever possible, in connection with the prison systems of big cities. The greater part of the work is, how- ever, not yet even started, because women have not awakened to the fact that here, too, concerted effort is necessary in order that they may secure the segregation of the old, hardened criminal and the young girl and first offender. The question of factory inspection and safeguarding against fire is para- mount. Now and again a great factory fire emphasizes the need of remedial legislation. There is much agitation, then forgetfulness, and the matter is allowed to pass until another horror arouses the community. HE question of housing working girls and women in cities is a big one. Up to the present time little in this respect has been done. Intelligent thought and combined effort on the part of women throughout the country— effort which would interest capital in the establishment of such hotels—would bring comfort and happiness to a large proportion of the workers of this land. Supervision of public amusements for the young is purely and distinctly a woman’s problem, because the woman is the mother of the race. There has been much friction between business interests and the spirit of reformation on the part of women where the question of dollar sacrifice has come in. Just as soon as it is understood that the ultimate good of the greatest number is the motive prompting ali in this work, prejudice and friction will disappear. A specific example of a civic work carried out by women will serve as a demonstration of what can be done and what is being done. The same general spirit of co-operation applied to any question in any locality will achieve similar results. The milk problem in New York City is such an example. It is impossible to comprehend the suffering of the tenements until it is seen at first hand, The concentration of human beings into such small compass is unbelievable until one has actually seen six or eight occupying a single room. To this congestion is added ignorance. The immigrant population, which is used to less constricted habitation in the old home, suffers for want of proper air. Whatever hardships they may have endured in Europe, at least they had air. The struggle here for breath alone is a terrifying thing, even for the robust adult. The workers return to these homes, after ten and twelve hours of labor, to sink into exhausted sleep. Children lie about on the floor wherever they can find a place to rest their bodies. Presiding over this unequal battle against decimation is the mother of the family. Added to the myriad household cares that fall upon her comes the burden of motherhood. Just as soon as a child is large enough to her sphere was limited to the family. [7 — To man was given the task of framing gov- ernment, nursing infant commerce, and making markets for his neighbor. To woman was given the silent task of waiting. And then, as the pages of history slowly turned and event crowded upon “event, there came in this land a@ war. And when the sun_ had MBS. HARRIMAN’S career is in itself the best | carts and ash cans. answer to the question in the title of this article. | : : She is distinguished as an effective worker in a | number of fields, especially so in politics and practical philanthropic endeavor. She is president of the Colony Club of New York and an active member of many committees. on “| toddle down the rickety dark stairs of the | tenement it finds its way among the push- Congestion of the population, poor sanitation, merciless heat in the summer months, impure milk, general ignorance— a relentless army of evils—solidly array themselves against infant life. In a (Continued on page 144) ~~

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* By Leslie Davis a Y, how you did have to run!’’ commented the little old lady, as Meaden dropped breath- lessly into the seat beside her and the station sheds rolled swiftly out of view. ‘] saw you comin’ and I hoped you’d fetch it. Take my palm leaf; it does keep dreadful hot for October.” She met his glance with a quick smile. “Tt’s hard to reckon on catchin’ trains,” she went on. “Especially for a man. There’s always somethin’ a man forgets and he has to tear upstairs again, and that hurries him sayin’ good-by to his wife.” A dull red crept slowly up in Meaden’s face. “How did you know I was married?” he asked, curiously, after a minute. “Oh, I can tell,” she nodded, sagely. ‘I should say that you were married and had two children.” ~ Meaden turned to her, surprised. “T guess you’re what they call psychic,” he remarked. “You can read people’s minds.” The little old lady laughed. “No, son, I’m not that, but I’m seventy-six years old and if you’ve got any wits at all you learn to use ’em by then. You've got married written all over you, and when you looked at your watch just now there were the two little heads inside.” yg agquend laughed too and stole another look at her. 4 She wore a plain black dress, and a pair of black cotton gloves lay neatly folded in her lap. Her bonnet was of crépe and directly in the front of it flashed a bright-red rose. Her face was round and her nose was small. Her eyes were blue and a little faded in color, but it would have taken more than seventy-six years to quench their brightness. There was something encouraging about her smile that recalled his mother. It made him feel confidential. “You're dead right about the little people,’’ he acknowl- edged. ‘But you fell down on the other. I didn’t say good-by to my wife at all.”’ “Oh-h!”’ said the little old lady. “T was pretty mad,” he admitted. “You see we live up here out of Albany and I’ve got a garden. Well, for two years, for two years I’ve been trying to get hold of a certain kind of melon to plant—the Helen B. It beats every other melon hollow. But the seed isn’t in the market. Then yes- terday, out in Herkimer (I’m a traveling man) I just stum- bled on a fellow who raises them and I got one to bring home and save the seeds. Well, I just didn’t happen to speak of it, and this morning my wife thought she’d have something extra for breakfast because it was the little chap’s birthday (seven years old) and she saw that melon, and if she didn’t cut it up and throw the seeds away!” ““Oh-h!” said the little old lady again. ‘I s’pose she felt pretty bad when she found it out.” “She felt badly enough,” shortly. Meaden examined his sales-book rather carefully while his companion searched her shabby little bag for her ticket. When she had found it and handed it with a triumphant beam to the conductor she turned cheerily back to Meaden. “So it’s the little fellow’s birthday! Seven years old. Well, I guess that seven years ago to-day was a pretty nice day. I guess he didn’t make much of a bundle that day. What do you cal! him?” ST igeangeers did not answer. His seat-mate, i the other travelers, and the roar of the train faded mysteriously out of his conscious- In their place he saw only a quiet room and a pale face lying beside a strange little roll of flannel; heard only his wife’s voice, an upsetting mixture of weakness and pride, whispering, ‘‘Let me introduce you to Elmer F. Meaden, Jr." He remembered how the strength had slipped suddenly from his legs and he had found himself on his knees, his face beside hers on the pillow. ‘She called him Elmer after me,” he said, presently. ‘I never thought it was much of a name, but my wife insisted. ‘Yes, sir,’ she ness. said. ‘He’d have your name if it was Hezekiah!’"’ He laughed a little shame- facedly. ‘When the little girl came I wanted to name her Susie after her mother, but my wife wouldn’t have it. She said she sort of felt,as though she wanted to be the only Susie there was. Well, she’s the only one there is for me, all right.””. Suddenly he felt an im- mediate need of consulting his time-table. “‘T’d like real well to know your wife,” said the little old lady. ‘She sounds real nice. I felt just that way about namin’ Tremaine. I had two little boys, Tremaine and Charlie. When their father died I didn’t know how I was goin’ to raise ’em, but I was awful lucky. I could sew, and first thing I knew I had enough to keep me busy all day long. Ain’t it queer how some folks always have it hard and some don’t? I was one of the lucky ones. My, this train’s goin’ fast! I no more than “So its the little fellow’s birthday” Illustrations by Robert W Amick see a cow before it’s past! Well, as I was sayin’, here’s Lena, Tremaine’s widow, where I’m goin’. A better woman never lived. I haven’t seen her, but Tremaine says to me once when he was home on a visit, he says, ‘Mother, I’ve got the best girl the Lord ever made and I’m goin’ to take care of her.’ He had a fine place in a shoe store, but he died that fall. Lena took to sewin’, just as I did. I’m awful glad she chose that, because I can help her.” “ RE you going for a visit?” his own interest. “No-o, not exactly. I guess I'll stay quite a spell. Lena wrote to me, and she says: ‘ Mother, come down to New York to live. You'll be a real help with the housework and it isn’t fair to the children for ’em not to know their grand- mother.’ Now wasn’t that just like Lena to put it so allurin’? She knew I couldn’t stand it in Warrensville with- out Charlie. Charlie was my little fellow. Not that he didn’t grow big; he was sort of thick-set, like you. He learned to be a doctor. “T wish you could have known Charlie. He was always laughin’. Everybody called him Doctor Charlie, he was that kind. He never could press anybody for his pay and it kind of kept him pinched himself. But he’d say, ‘Mother, I know they want to pay, and that’s the main thing.’ The only one he ever pressed was Judge Slocum. Charlie says to me, ‘Mother, the Judge has got the money and he’d feel better if he spent it.” So he pressed him, and, sure enough, the Judge felt so good after payin’ Charlie that he went all around town and settled up. It was a great day for Warrensville. “Yes, it’s three weeks yesterday since Charlie went. He was joggin’ through the country with old Tom when all of a sudden one of those long, low, tearin’ machines came whoopin’ round a corner. You see, Tom wasn’t used to such doin’s and he couldn’t move fast enough to get out of the way. Charlie didn’t suffer any. I was thankful for that, but when the neighbors went home and I sat beside Charlie and saw him lyin’ there so still I just said, ‘Lord, how am I ever goin’ to bear it?’ And then in a minute the answer came just as plain: ‘Aren’t you glad that you've Meaden was surprised at Ri hawt prt Aivccdes 19 “Drop me a card” he called up known the very worst that can ever happen to your two boys? There’s nothin’ left for them now but to be happy!’ It came to me just so. It isn’t given to every mother to see her children through!” HERE was silence for a while. The little old lady gazed absorbedly at the wonderful panorama of the Hudson which was spreading itself out before their sight. Presently the Poughkeepsie bridge swung into view and Meaden rose. “‘Here’s Poughkeepsie and we make a stop,” he an- nounced. “I’m going to get off a minute. Is there any- thing I can do for you?” “Oh no, thank you! I don’t want a thing. That little girl down there is pretty car sick and now that the train has stopped rockin’ I think I can get to her and show her how to do cat’s cradle with her sister. It’s elegant for car sickness.” Meaden hurried to the telegraph window and sent a message. “Never mind melon. Will be home to-morrow.” Then he snatched a hasty lunch, looking anxiously around all the while for just the right thingeto buy. When he re- turned to the car he thrust a pretty basket of peaches at the little old lady. She looked at him in delighted surprise. “Why, aren’t you good! You needn’t have done that! I had some nice sandwiches that the neighbors put up for me. I had the best neighbors! It seemed as though they couldn’t do enough for me after Charlie went. That’s one thing I’m kind of lookin’ forward to at Lena’s—gettin’ acquainted with the folks around.” “T guess you won’t find much neighboring in New York,” remarked Meaden, bluntly. “Why, there’s always neighbors!” she announced, triumphantly. “If there ain’t the friendly kind there’s the wayside kind. Of course I’ve never been to New York, but I guess it isn’t altogether free from folks that’s fell among thieves!’’ The afternoon sun began to send long rays into the car. The little old lady shifted her fruit basket out of the heat and carefully flecked off a speck of soot. “How the children will like these peaches!” she exulted. ‘It’s on account of the children that I put this rose in my bonnet. It hada crépe veil, but when Lena’s letter came, thinks I, ‘ Those children won’t want a black spook for a grandma,’ so I got this rose to the Five- and-Ten.” Meaden consulted his watch and began, rather reluctantly, to gather his belongings together. “T’ve got to get off at Peekskill. I wish I were going on. I'd like to see you through. But here’s one of my cards, ‘ Elmer F. Meaden, representing The Anderson Boiler Company,’ and I wish you’d just drop a postal when you're settled and say if you’re all right. My wife will want to know.” “Why, thank you!’’ beamed the little old lady. “But I'll beall right. Lena’s goin’ to meet me. I wrote her about the rose in my bonnet. And it 'll be almost like goin’ hoine to be where there’s grandchildren! Re- member me to your wife!” The train began to slow down. Meaden reached for his bag and made his way to the door. Outside, he started off toward the station, then stepped back to the open window where the little old lady sat watching. “You drop a card!” he called up again. “T will!’ she nodded. Then suddenly she leaned toward him and whispered: ‘Hear that woman fret! Ain’t it a pity? Some- times when I see folks get old and fussy” —a laugh twinkled merrily over her little round face — ‘‘sometimes I hope [’ll die young! Good-by!” ,

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" 2) — Fro >) \\2 Gf} We Over the Hill—Two Will Carleton’s Poems (The death of Will Carleton has just been recorded by the newspapers, and it has renewed public interest in his two best-known poems. ‘Over the Hill to the Poorhouse’”’ and “Over the Hill from the Poorhouse”’ tell the simple story of a good woman's suffering and her rescue by a wandering but warm-hearted son. Some years ago Mr. Carleton wrote the following about these poems which have touched the hearts of two generations.) N ANY a more elaborate poem has failed to produce as much impression i upon the public heart as has this brace of ballads. I have heard from them in many parts of the world, and they seem to live and, I trust, to do It would be affectation to deny that they have done good, much Letters have x Xt xd. further than their literary pretensions could warrant or merit. often been written me by repentant sons and daughters. When originally published, however, they first met with very severe crit- Over the Hill to the Poorhouse VER the hill to the poorhouse I’m trudgin’ my weary way— I, a woman of seventy, and only a trifle gray— [, who am smart an’ chipper, for all the years I’ve told, As many another woman that’s only half as old. Over the hill to the poorhouse—I can’t quite make it clear! Over the hill to the poorhouse—it seems so horrid queer! Many a step I’ve taken, a-toilin’ to and fro, But this is a sort of journey I never thought to go. And when to John I was married, sure he was good and smart, But he and all the neighbors would own I done my part; For life was all before me, an’ I was young an’ strong, And I worked my best an’ smartest in tryin’ to get along. An’ so we worked for the child’rn, and raised ’em every one; Worked for ’em summer and winter, just as we ought to ’ve done; Only perhaps we humored 'em, which some good felks condemn; But every couple’s own child’rn’s a heap the dearest to them! Strange how much we think of our blessed little ones!— I'd have died for my daughters, I’d have died for my sons; And God He made that rule of love; but when we're old and gray, I've noticed it sometimes somehow fails to work the other way. Strange, another thing: when our boys an’ girls was grown, And when, exceptin’ Charley, they’d left us there alone; When John he nearer an’ nearer came, an’ dearer seemed to be, The Lord—of Hosts!—He came one day an’ took him away from me! Still I was bound to struggle, an’ never to cringe or fall— Still I worked for Charley, for Charley was now my all; And Charley was pretty good to me, with scarce a word or frown, Till at last he went a-courtin’, and brought me a wife from town. She was somewhat dressy, an’ hadn’t a pleasant smile— She was quite conceity, and carried a heap o’ style; But if ever I tried to be friends, I did with her, I know; But she was hard and haughty, an’ we couldn’t make it go. She had an edication, an’ that was good for her; But when she twitted me on mine, ‘twas carryin’ things too fur; An’ I told her once, ‘fore company (an’ it almost made her sick), That I never swallowed a grammar, or ‘et a ‘rithmetic. So ’twas only a few days before the thing was done— They was a family of themselves, and I another one; And a very little cottage one family will do, 3ut I never have seen a mansion that was big enough for two. An’ I never could speak to suit her, never could please her eye, An’ it made me independent, an’ then I didn’t try; But I was terribly humbled, an’ felt it like a blow, When Charley turned ag’in’ me, an’ told me I could go! I went to live with Susan; but Susan’s house was small, And she was always a-hintin’ how snug it was for us all; And what with her husband's sisters, and what with child’rn three, "Twas easy to discover there wasn’t room for me. An’ then I went with Thomas, the oldest son I’ve got; For Thomas’s buildings ’d cover the half of an acre lot; But all the child’rn was on me—I couldn't stand their sauce— And Thomas said I needn't think I was comin’ there to boss. An’ then I wrote to Rebecca, my girl who lives out West, And to Isaac, not far from her—some twenty miles at best; And one of 'em said ‘twas too warm there for any one so old, And t’other had an opinion the climate was too cold. So they have shirked and slighted me, an’ shifted me about— 5o they have well-nigh soured me, an’ wore my old heart out; But still I've borne up pretty well, an’ wasn’t much put down, Till Charley went to the poor-master, an’ put. me on the town! Over the hill to the poorhouse—my child’rn dear, good-by! Many a night I’ve watched you when only God was nigh; And God 'Il judge between us; but I will al’ays pray That you shall never suffer the half I do to-day! S 4, Yip — i) J ourneys icism. ‘It is cruel,’”’ said one. exclaimed another. “Do you want to succeed in literature?’’ inquired a learned judge, of me, one day on the street. ‘‘Well, then, you must write naturally, according to human nature. This you evidently have not yet learned to do.” It was already in my power to direct the learned jurist to cases which proved the poem as it stood to have excellent foundation in fact. He investigated, and acknowledged that he was wrong in his criticism. Concerning the sequel—‘‘ Over the Hill from the Poorhouse’’—the question has often been asked if such a thing could have happened. This is shown by the converts of the Jerry McAuley’s Mission, and by many other persons of the same sort, whose lives, perhaps, are now to a great extent more exemplary than they would have been had not the error taken place. —WILL CARLETON. “There never was such a case in the world,” Over the Hill from the Poorhouse VER the hill to the poorhouse J went, one winter’s day: I—who was always considered a “bad stick’’ anyway; I—who was always gettin’ in a large assortment of tricks, And always sure to be quoted as ‘“‘the worst of the Deacon’s six.” Tom was a steady fellow, and saved up all he got; But when it came to payin’ his debts, he’d always rather not; And Isaac could quote the Scriptures, an’ never forgot nor slipped; But ‘‘Honor thy father and mother’’ was one of the verses he skipped. An’ as for Susan an’ ’Becca, their hearts, as one might say, Was good—what there was of ’em—which wasn’t much, anyway; And al! of our little family was good as you'll often see, Exceptin’ one poor fellow—and that ‘ere one was me. All of the rest was steady, an’ nice, an’ good, an’ right; All of the rest was sober—but I was mainly tight; An’ when I ‘‘borrowed” two horses, or helped to, just for fun— If I hadn’t been drunk as blazes, it never would have been done. But when they sent me to prison, the hardest grief I felt Was when my poor old mother beside me feebly knelt, And cried and prayed all round me, till I got melted down, And cried as I wouldn’t have cried that day for half the horses in town. And with my left arm round her—my right hand lifted high— I swore henceforth to be honest, and sober live and die; And I went and served my term out, although ‘twas a bitter pill, Which many fellows ought to take who probably never will. And when I had served my sentence, I thought ’twould answer the best To take the advice of Greeley: ‘‘Go West, young man, go West!’ And how I came to prosper there, I never could understand; But Fortune seemed to like me—she gave me a winning hand. And year after year I prospered, and kept a-going ahead; And wrote to a trusty neighbor East, to tell "em that I was dead; And died a good straight fellow; for I knew it would please them more Than if I had lived to a hundred and twelve—the chap that I was before! But when this trusty neighbor he wrote a line to me, “Your mother’s in the poorhouse, a-pining away,” says he, To keep dead any longer—I knew that it wouldn’t be right; So I'd a private resurrection, and started for her that night. And when I came in the old town, my first act was to buy A snug and handsome cottage, which rather seemed to my eye To look just ‘ike the old one; I finished it off the same; You couldn’t have told the difference—if you could, J wasn’t to blame! Then over the hill to the poorhouse, one blustcring winter day, With two fleet nags and a cutter, I swiftly took my way: The fleetest nags in the county, and both as black as coal— They very much resembled the pair of horses I stole. I hitched in front of the poorhouse—I opened the poorhouse door; My poor old mother was on her knees, a-scrubbin’ the kitchen floor! I coughed a little, on purpose—she started, in surprise— Rose up, with a scared expression, an’ looked me in the eyes. I slowly walked up to her, an’ all her troubles’ trace I saw in the lines of sorrow that marred her dear old face: ‘‘Mother, O Mother!” I shouted; ‘“‘your poorhouse contract’s done; An’ you henceforth are adopted, by your resurrected son.” She didn’t faint nor hallo—but knelt down by my side, And thanked the Lord for saving her me, till I broke down and cried; But maybe our ride wasn’t merry! and maybe we wasn’t gay! And maybe I didn’t wrap her up that blustering winter day! And maybe we didn’t live happy, for quite a number of years! And I gained the respect of my neighbors—in spite of my brothers’ sneers, And spite of my sisters’ caution; who said, as I have heard, That they never could own a brother that had been a prison-bird! But I’ll bet, when the great bugle rings out its cheerful notes, And the good Lord Almighty sorts out His sheep and goats, However my case is settled, if you are there you'll see That my old Christian mother will stand right up for me. From “ Farm Ballads.” Copyright, 1873, by Harper & Brothers ; copyright, 1901, by Will Carleton ; EMO RTE ENE, SON IE )) Ay ca sca SC 8 os)! 8 OO 8 RA ee hates Lita ») Soil (H SN SS Sh. ” . \ Bg LP LAL eh SS \\ =»). = oe ms ss SSS Z, Lec = ss PR _ — C SS Yi SS +4 SS FF Sits SESS) ESSTIESS) ESSN) SS ST | VETS TeAAaS RARE) SARAS

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ij —— SAAD SCANS TSSAAPTSSANS PSSADD PSSADPTSAADE SAAS TRS SAAT SAAT NG SA SEAM SSAMTSSADETSSAM SOAS TSSADET ASQ TSA: TOT ETE) ASS SAAT SAAN T SA! ox ox x ox x x x ax t fy MQ LRQQRQRRQQRRRRQRORORQLQRRRRQRORRRRARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROA SS oS ‘ oo : omen Who Achieve C Tee io} z 4 By Dana Gatlin Si Fo Fo a RR ise i Ay : KS i ro Fe KZ a Y FH Ze tas = r. So she planned to build a chapel for the Rangeley region. With energy and determination she worked, writing and asking and receiving, until, a year ago, she finally accomplished what had been judged impossible. And to-day x ES US SIRS (Ss a a3 Wii & ox im BS

but has persevered until she has come out ahead. She has won for Indianapolis the reputation of being one of the leading musical centers of the Middle West. Mig men walk twenty miles to hear mass in the little church at Oquossao station, in the Rangeley region.

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ISS FAY KELLOGG, of New York City, has won fame for successfully combining two widely different professions not generally taken up by women. She divides her time be- tween her New York office, where she is a suc- cessful architect, and a strenuous out-of-door life on her farm at Greenlawn, Long Island. She studied for her profession in Paris, where her R. ROSE L. BURCHAM played a conspicuously important part in the discovery and development of the Yellow Aster Mine, which has up to date yielded more than six million dollars. In 1893, when Dr. Burcham was practising medicine in San Bernardino, Cal., she grub-staked her husband while he prospected. When the Yellow Aster was proved, Dr. Burcham ar- ranged her affairs so she could go personally to the RS. ISABELLA GILLEN, the wife of a master plumber of Rockaway Beach, Long Island, has recently invented a practical apparatus that cuts off the gas supply in case of fire. Strange to say, Mrs. Gillen has had no education nor experience along mechanical or technical lines; but, ie

mine, where she lived as virtual manager, first in a efforts to gain admission to the Ecole des after reading of the tragic death of Deputy RE tent, then in a small cottage. When the company Beaux Arts resulted in the passage of a special Fire Chief Chanler Kruger, in New York, a aS was formed she was made secretary and a director. act in the Chamber of Deputies. She has de- Mrs. Gillen began thinking. Then came ASS 1 She has always had the responsibility of the patents signed and remodeled a number of large office her idea. Chief Kruger was not burned 5 | 5 and the checking of the contracts, and is an influence buildings, as well as having constructed a large to death, but, falling into the basement av. aes in all matters of policy. ‘A cattleman, a carpenter, number of houses and commercial buildings. of the burning building, was asphyxiated Ke ee and a prospector who knew gold when he could wash She is especially a champion of every improvement by gas escaping from meters which had S ay it out in a pan and didn’t believe much in any other in the construction of the home which aims to been melted by the heat. Mrs. Gillen’s 42 kind, made a fine combination to waste money in lighten woman’s labors. Her farm holds a big part idea was to have an automatic “‘cut- Zee operating a mine. So some one has to attend to the of her interest, and on it she has adopted all mod- off” device. It consists of a little Re ee economies.’’ That has been her part. ern methods. thermostat filled with mercury. = + ey Hie ie

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Z aap ospel of How Every month Miss Johnson will show, in the same practical way as in this article, the simple working details of Living on the Budget Plan. If you have not read about the new plan you can do so by getting the November, December, January, and February numbers of The Bazar, which tell about the plan from the beginning. Y an ideal budget is meant that ar- rangement for the expenditure of a stated income which will secure the great- est comfort or happi- ness possible while maintaining a stand- ard of health both physical and moral. The word ideal in this connection means that balance between certain divisions of needs and wants which will yield the most could these ideal conditions be realized. The facts are that con- ditions are not ideal, and the practical budget for you may be very different from the ideal presented even for your part of the country. As yet there has not been sufficient research study made of living condi- tions over this entire country, or statistical informa- tion given to permit of didactic statements, or any- thing more than suggestions for the bettering of certain situations. Budgets necessarily differ as rents, prices of various commodities, and the demands of place and families differ. A family saving to educate its children in school or college will divide the income in a different way from one of the same size, with the same income, yet having no children to educate. Those people who have no higher ideal of life than clothes and furnish- ings will put the money on these, of course taking it from other wants, whereas the ones who desire another kind of higher life will forego comforts for the possession of one Oriental rug, certain books, or other things of this character. Measures, or so- called ideal divisions, are given merely for the pur- pose of showing how to go to work to divide your own income according to the needs of your own case, so that you can see where waste occurs or where you may save. Different methods of dividing can per- haps be shown best by graphic illustrations of sub- mitted budgets, in contrast with the so-called ideal divisions given by students in economics. Ideal division of $500 income: err eer .. 45% or $225 Rent. . busta Siac . 20% or 100 Clothes ke hae vasewe Ree 75 Operating expenses... . 10%) or 50 ee ee ee 10%) or 50 100%% or $500 This simply could not be done. To begin with, an income of $500 or even more is inadequate to-day. It cannot provide sufficient food, clothing, or shelter to maintain physical efficiency. Not that there are no families living on such a wage, but they are doing so either with the aid of charity now, or will become public charges eventually. This refers to city, not to country, living, remember. Here is given the actual budget of a family living in Buffalo, New York, known because of the aid which became necessary: Food 55.2% or $276 Rent 22.4% or 112 Clothes oe 2 4 5 ; 4°o or 47 Operating expenses. 5.3% or 26.50 Higher life 7.7% 0r 38.50 100°% or $500 Mr. Frederick Almy, Secretary of the Buffalo Charity Organization Society, two years ago gave a budget of the lowest tolerable living on which, without charity, a man, wife, and three children could exist in that city, and it was figured at $560. He stated: “This total of $560 was the lowest any of the ten district visitors would stand for as tolerable. Most of them thought as much as $634 was the lowest possible budget for such a family.’’ And prices have risen, not lowered, in these two years. He adds: ‘These figures allow no margin for any idleness (by no means always the fault of the worker, but of his trade), waste, accident, or saving.” By HELEN LOUISE JOHNSON V. The Ideal and the Practical Items NECESSARIES 1. Rent at $7 permonth............. $ 84 2. Food at $5 per week.....%.... 260 3. Clothing, including shoes......... 76 ie INE IR rns scons vw sine ava ; 30 errr eee rere 10 $460 EXTRAS ie II oc) Sod outs ksi 0531s, did ea ak ae ee $ 25 Se 30 c. Burial insurance (necessity) ...... 20 d. Recreation and extravagance..... 12 e. Sundries (these include soap, I ANE oso tre Seine sewen ves 3 $90 460 $550 Worse off than the Poor HIS may seem to have no bearing on our budgets, but all these figures throw light on living condi- tions and possibilities. Moreover, it is a fact that we are our brothers’ keepers, and, to a very great extent, the manner in which we live will determine the possibilities of life to these others. In the frugal days of fifty years and less ago the maids who married from our mother’s and grandmother’s houses, after living and working there for a period of years, knew how to manage their own households in such a way as to make them economic centers, actual units of progress. From the homes of to-day the maids go forth as unfitted to bear their part of the burdens of household administration in homes where frugality must be the rule as are the young society women to take up their household cares. And we cannot avoid the responsibility or cost of either wilful or unfor- tunate ignorance. Every day of our lives our attention is called to the needs of the very poor. Most of us are painfully aware of the poverty at our doors and research through intelligent means and workers have shown us the truth of the “vicious circle of poverty.” Unfitness for labor means low wages, and low wages result in insufficient food and clothes and housing conditions. Insufficient food and poor clothing result in unfitness for labor, and the vicious circle is complete. We may only break this by forming another, an endless chain of progress, slowly becoming the ideal in the minds of those who hire labor done. Better wages mean better food and housing; and better living conditions mean better moral conditions, more strength and courage, more willingness and capacity for work. This means more income, more life, and the endless chain of progress is complete. But while our attention is daily claimed for the very poor, there is another class whose needs are as great and whose poverty is as real, while not as pitiable nor complete. These are the ones who are poor with plenty of means; who, having good or sufficient incomes, are not able to buy comforts, still less make both ends meet, leaving no opportunity for the higher life, which to them is as great a need as sufficient clothing or food. To-day the burden of the high prices asked for the necessities of life falls hardest upon those whose education and training, character and principles, demand a certain standard of liviag and a measure of life beyond that bounded by mere food, clothing, and shelter. The burden has fallen most heavily upon this class of people because, generally speaking, they are the ones least skilled in the use of money, so that an income of $1,000 dol- lars means extreme denial in those things which represent any joy of life—the book, the picture, the concert, and so on. The lowest budget which has been sent to us for rearrangement is $780, the highest approximates something over six thousand dollars, and the family with the latter sum are having a harder time than the one with the first mentioned. Much over six the New Housekeeping to Enjoy Life on the Budget Plan A budget is a plan of expenditure prepared in advance to enable you to apportion your income to your needs in such a way as to derive the greatest material benefit from this income, and atthe same time most easily realize your desires for amusement and saving for a “‘ rainy day.” thousand one need not go, for while the same ideals should govern the expenditures here, there is not the same need for close calculations. There may be as great ignorance of the economics of the situation and the laws which should govern it where there is an income of ten thousand, but the effects of extrava- gance and waste are not so directly painful nor disastrous. Moreover, the man who is capable of earning that income is apt to be a good business man, and he will govern the outgo to a degree if he sces it going too wrong. And he certainly should if he finds his wife incapable of so doing. But what a situation—incapable of running one’s own business! The Spenders of Ten Billions HERE are certain things which we as women must come to realize and appreciate wholly. The first is that over ten billions of dollars are spent annually in the United States for household uses or expenditures, and that to a very large degree we are responsible as to how they are spent. The re- turns for that enormous expenditure depend upon how the money is spent. That this sum has not been expended wisely in the past is shown by the constantly increased cost of living. Do not misunderstand this— we are not ascribing the present condition to this cause alone, we are merely saying it is one of the contributory causes, and that the pressure will continue until we can learn how to expend in better, wiser ways. Mrs. Richards wrote in 1900 (‘‘Cost of Living’’): “Under the pressure of nineteenth-century conditions it has been found that the home as at present con- ducted is not managed on an economical basis so far as money value or outward semblance of luxury is concerned. That it fails in the more important essentials of comfort is proved by the great increase of clubs and hotel life. On what grounds, therefore, can the justification of individual homes be based? Only on the conceded fact that the home is the germ of Anglo-Saxon civilization. If the income is to be used so as to give the fullest satisfaction of human wants there must be classification of those wants in order of importance, and some restraint of unreason- ing impulse. ‘Style in living’ has no standards, no basis in morals, religion, or economics. The fashion of the day or the whim of the moment is indulgg without a thought of the consequences to the i generation. This absence of safeguards, this letting down of ethical barriers, brings countless temptations to extravagance.” To show the difference between what is called an ideal and the actual living budget for certain incomes these tables have been prepared. Ideal division of income for family of five having $1,800 yearly: ccc e ani 25% or $450 US os cus Su aa 20% or 360 ae are 15% or 270 Operating expenses.... 15% or 270 eS ree 25% or 450 100% or $1,800 Actual division of an $1,800 income for family living in Ohio in small town. Fam- ily consists of father, mother, and one child, and they keep a cow, chickens, and a garden. Produce not counted in, but upkeep is: OS Se eee ee 12% or $216 Ee wore 7% or 126 Oe ere 11.5% or 207 Operating expenses.. 30% or 540 Biigner iile............ 39.5% or » 7II or $1,800 Actual division of income of $1,800 for family of father, mother, and two children living in Chicago, Illinois: RE occas cccs eee 20.2% or $364 Sere ee 26.6% or 480 GR nce ncees 17% or 306 10% or 180 Operating expenses. . ; 26.2% or 470 Higher life......... 100% or $1,800 (Continued on page 128)

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The Bazar’s New Serial—A True Life-Story 123 The Glory of Opportunity p® ECEDING CHAPTERS: Growing up just back of the heather- clad headlands of the North Sea, this girl of good family, left motherless when but a child, determined to achieve America and a career. Her father married again. Anna’s ideals soon became those of the new generation ‘instead of the old Norwegian traditions. A chance line in a letter from America, ‘‘Why don’t you let Anna come here and study medicine?’’ determined her fate. Soon she bade good- by to the gray mists of Christianssand and on the Norge reached New York harbor with but ten doll ars in her pocket, and having but one friend, who lived a thousand miles away. She came in through the immigration gates * ‘just a letter and a number.” Then she traveled by train across country, dazed by the pre airies new to her Norwegian eyes. Reaching Minneapolis, her real life in America began. She went to work as a servant in a family of modest means, and her trials were many in learning their ways and the English language. Two summers at a lake-resort hotel — working in the laundry and dining- room —brought a humorous and pathetic series of adventures, which ended in Anna’s joining her sister in Chicago. A longing for her first American “home ”’ made her return to Minneapolis. And then New York was her goal. CHAPTER IV LOOKING FOR A JOB IN NEW YORK FEW HOURS’ RIDE west of Minneapolis a little lake lies sleeping in the heart of the woods. Carefully gathering its June-green veil, it dreams contentedly in the long sum- mer day. Now and then it turns and smiles as a rowboat skims over it or a swimmer glides through it, and then sleeps on. An unpretentious hotel near it is surrounded by cottages bearing the names of trees, each covered by the bark of its namesake. I was head waitress at this rustic hotel, and lived in ‘“‘The Pine,”’ which was a little the worse for wear and could not be used for guests. But no palace could have been more welcome. I was supremely happy. Last winter’s cold attic room, where the snow blew in through the cracks, was long ago sent adrift with the white clouds. I was going to college in the fall! I should see people who wrote books, who painted pic- tures, who built engines and skyscrapers. I dreamed as did the lake. “No city girl ever stayed here very long.” So said Maggie, one of the waitresses, the day after my arrival. ‘‘The work is too hard,’’ she added. “T am not a city girl,” I said, and looked at her. She was the product of a small secluded village boasting of three saloons, a large dance-hall, one church, and two grocery stores. I surmised that it was not the work alone that made the “city girls’ leave. My book-belief in the childlike innocence of the country youth was torn up by the roots. Time and again my trunk and dressing-table were searched in my absence for trinkets to be worn at week- end balls, never to be returned. The fruit disappeared from the dining-room at a greater rate than the number of guests could account for. I had to confess to myself that I was at my wits’ end. The only thing I could do in the beginning was to keep a steel grip on my own work, and watch Maggie, whose head was always buzzing with plans not pertaining to the uplift of the dining-room. “Oh, no use being so partic’lar,’””’ Maggie would say, giving the straying knives and forks a dab here and there and then hurrying out to meet her Pat, who was waiting at the end of the lane. I was too near the shadows of my own _ serfdom not to appreciate the attitude of self-defense taken by Maggie, fer the work was getting harder and harder as the summer wore on and the number of guests increased. My appeals to reason, pride, and gain were of no avail. Maggie’s only vulnerable spot was her heart, and that belonged to Pat. I enlisted him on my side, telling him of Maggie’s possibilities, omitting her impossibilities. Now the fruit bills diminished, my room was left alone, I was treated to “‘Mary Ann” cookies at the country store, and received cards and letters the whole of the following year. You see, I had caught a sight of the other side of the servant question, that of the employer, and found it as difficult and full of possibilities as my own. It was soon September. The winds whistled through the summer-houses, as if to say, ‘‘You have been here long enough; go where you belong and leave us alone.” I “belonged” nowhere. After all, I was not to go to college that winter. My sister. was now secretary to a New York business man, and I had decided to go to some Eastern college in- stead of continuing in Minneapolis. Then, too, beyond the point where the rails seemed to meet there was the wonder-city with the many lights. g was evening when the train slowed up at Hoboken, as it was when I left the same station an immigrant. I stood on the platform, drunk with sea air and sea smells. Never, never would I leave the sea again! I could have hugged the ferry-hands that closed the gate as we pulled out from the slip—for there was New York! “Come down to the office this noon and we will lunch together,’”’ my sister said the next morning, giving me written directions as to my way. “Mr. McDonald, this is my little sister.” With this By Anna Tjomsland introduction I was pushed into the inner office. I had been so busy getting impressions all the way down that when I finally reached Wall Street I was dumfounded and con- fused. Instinctively I knew my sister was right in de- picting Mr. McDonald as no ordinary man. He was awe- inspiring, but his gray eyes warmed, and involuntarily I put out my hand. “So this is Anna. How is New York?” “There is so much of it,"’ I blurted out. He laughed—a contagious, happy laugh, and patted me on the shoulder. I could have gone to the ends of the earth for him at once. “To think that he talked to me at all,” sister. “All big men will; it is only the underlings that have time for nobody but themselves.” I came again the next day. I came many times. This mighty tide of human beings surging over New York every morning, to retreat at night, the clanging of cars, contrast of human faces, races, and nations, were all exerting a fasci- nating power over me. At times I felt crushed to earth, a mere atom in this vast throng. But again I was seized by a mad desire to be one of this army of human toilers. “What are you going to do when you get to college?” Mr. McDonald asked me one day. “Get housework. That is the only thing I can do,” I replied. “But do you think you will have time enough for your studies? Housework means small pay and long hours. Why don’t you take a business course? With typewriting and stenography at your fingers’ ends you can always get work anywhere.” I gave a start. I had the utmost confidence in his judg- ment, and the outcome was that I decided to take a business course that winter, and to work in some office ti!l college opened the following fall. I did not at a!l feel as though the solid ground had been pushed from under my feet, as might have been expected. I realized that I was fearfully ignorant, and that New York was the kind of college I needed. I said to my HE students at the business school were mostly grammar- school graduates, and I ate my lunches in silence, and walked home alone, till one fine morning during the second week Ruth Lessing arrived. She had come from a small town up the State, and before the day was over we were exchanging plans. One day as we walked home she sud- denly said: “T am looking for a room-mate. I have a good-sized room at four a week; we can cook our meals in it for another four, and live cheaper and better than in any boarding- house. I am so lonely evenings that I sometimes think I shall go mad.” ‘My sister is going to Mexico in a couple of weeks,” I said. “I can’t afford to live in her boarding-house alone. If you want me I’ll come. -I am a professional cook, wait- ress, and laundry-woman; economical; best of references!” “Bully!” And we stopped in the middle of the street crossing in sheer excitement. “Do you know,” I said one evening, ‘‘ we have such good dinners that we might easily go without lunches for a couple of weeks, and go to grand opera instead.” Ruth’s eyes widened. “That is just what I have been thinking about—how to get money to hear something besides typewriters. I could almost tear my hair out sometimes, when everybody begins to write, ‘Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of the party.’”” This is a sentence given in schools for keyboard exercise. “And those dry letters to nobody,” I added: “‘I am in receipt of your esteemed favor of the 15th ultimo, and con- tents carefully noted.’ ” There was a far-away look in Ruth’s eves “Perhaps I shall never work in an office.” The great Saturday evening had come. Closing our hands tightly over our precious one-dollar tickets, we were pressing upward toward the gallery of the Metropolitan Opera House. It was ‘‘Tannhauser’’ we had chosen for our first opera, and the opening notes of the overture were already floating up from the vast dark abyss below as we entered. Our hands met and trembled. There was music that rushed through my body like fire, and music that revealed sorrows too deep for human words. “Just think,” I whispered, ‘‘to be able to sing oneself out like that.” But Ruth was lost. She did not come to herself till we were back in our room. “It is good to be alive, isn’t it.” “Yes,”’ Ruth said, ‘‘and I am going on the stage—I am. That is the only thing; there you are free, your own, your- self.”’ as she said, — | THis is the remarkable life-story, true in every detail, of a girl | born in Norway of a good family. Finding at home no sympathy with her ideas for education and a career, she came to | America—in the steerage. Her subsequent life—the account of which glows with brilliant achievement—was a struggle, now up, now down, which shows the comedy and the pathos of this, our America. The names of persons throughout the story could not, of course, be printed. The localities, however, are given where the actual events took place. The next chapter takes Anna Tjomsland through her experiences at a great university She clutched my hands and pulled me close. “Oh, come along—away from this deadening toil. We will finish our business course to have something to fall back on, and then study music in the daytime and get into a chorus at night.’ I had become sober by this time. thought of this for a long time. “You try; I'll help you all I can.” The following week we lived on tone-dreams and pounded Wagner motifs on the old piano in the drawing-room down- stairs, going without lunches to save money for another opera. But there was not much money left to save from. My summer’s earnings were practically gone. One evening when I had been at the business college about two months, and had been out looking for housework, I returned to find our room padlocked. Ruth had just obtained a position teaching at evening school, and would not be home till late, and I knew she had no money. The rent was overdue two days, but the cashier had promised to wait till the following week. This evidently was the landlady’s own hand. As I turned my steps toward the office I met ‘ Doc,” a medical student working his way through college, and our sharer of good and ill luck. **Doc, I am locked out.” “Look here,” he said; ‘“‘take my watch; you can raise five on it.” That gave me an idea. “No, thanks,” I said, and rushed downstairs; ‘‘you will probably need it yourself before the week is over.” “Gus,” I said to the watchman, slipping ten cents into his hand, ‘“‘let me into the trunk-room, will you?” Gus did so, and I hurried down the street with an armful of books, ‘‘Doc’”’ with another, but they were old and full of marks, and brought only three dollars. “‘Never mind,” I said, when “Doc” again proffered his watch; ‘‘you stop at ‘Uncle’s’ with this brooch.” She evidently had ss ie is your own fault,”’ I said to myself. My sister-had lent me money to pay for my business course, and I was to get a position doing housework. I had dutifully looked at many places, but 2 x 4 rooms in a basement with double- decker beds, inside rooms without light, were the quarters offered by the people who wanted such services as I could give. I had scanned the ‘“ Help Wanted”’ columns day after day, and had written letters till I had no more money for stamps. Then one day I received a note in reply to one of my letters. I hurried immediately to the address, which proved to be a sewing-shop in a good part of town. “T want some one to help finish dresses,” owner of the shop. ‘Are you a foreigner?” I hesitated a moment. My getting the job evidently hinged on this. I thought of daddy’s words: “ It never pays in the long run to tell stories.” “Yes,”’ I said, adding proudly, ‘I am a Norwegian.” “Good; that is what I want. You people can sew better than American girls.” I was not so sure about this, but said nothing. She was new in the business, and had altruistic ideas of work and recompense. I was to get 25 cents an hour for my work and could do it at my room. Joyfully I hastened home with a bundle of small ‘‘ jobs,” and set to work. I could easily work at this three hours a day and six on Sundays. As I returned my work one day my employer looked at me over her glasses: “T am afraid the things you brought back last night smelled of fried potatoes.” After that I did most of my sewing in the cloak-room at school. One Sunday morning shortly after Christmas the usual pro- gramme was in full swing in the various rooms of our board- ing-house. Evidences of this fact were lines of stockings and handkerchiefs drying in the windows, puddings and sauces cooling on the window-sills, odors of all descriptions from garlic to fudge filling the halls, while a mellow Italian tenor below mingled with a screech-owl soprano in the north- west corner of our floor. A wonderful ’cello broke in on the duet, only to be drowned by a bugle-call across the air- shaft. Ruth was scanning the ‘‘Help Wanted” columns. I was pressing my suit, for I had fully decided to go down- town the following day to try my luck at getting an office job. I had been at the school over three months, and although the allotted time was six months, I might as well practise in an office during the day and get paid, returning to the school in the evening. “Here is a firm on Vesey Street advertising for an office assistant at three dollars and a half a week,’”’ Ruth said. “Three dollars and a half a week!’’ I repeated. ‘‘Who would ever try for that! I think I will go down and see if any one comes.” “T am going to see the agents to-morrow and try to get into a chorus. If I don’t succeed, I’ll come downtown, too,’”’ Ruth said. “Oh! Ye'll take the high road and I'll take the low road.” It was the old Scotchman next door repeating these words over and over in a voice that trembled as it carefully felt its way. “Which is it—yours or mine?’’ Ruth laughed. said the | Soe next morning I was at the Vesey Street office. To my great surprise there were a dozen or more girls waiting, and others were filing in. Isat down at the door, awaiting developments. The girl next to me looked at me

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for a while, and then with the usual freemasonry among girls looking for jobs said: “Did you come down here to work?” “No, I came down to an ‘ad’ for three dollars and a half a week,” I answered. “That is just it,” “There lots of girls living at home, and wanting a little pin-money. They work for a salary any respectable, self-supporting girl would blush toaccept. They take the bread away from see whether any one would answer are she exclaime 1. which those who need it and perhaps have an old mother to sup- port. But girls don’t stick,’’ she added, as if speaking from bitter experience. “They will some day,” I said; ‘‘just wait and see.” She looked at me. “You have never worked in an office before, I shook my head. “Know how to get a job?” Again I an | negative. have you?” wered in the “T'll tell you what to do. Go down to the typewriter office. You had better hurry. 1 am going to see the manager of this firm.” I shook her hand and hurried downstairs into the maze of streets of lower New York, finally reaching the type- writer office The waiting-room was filled. I waited for two long hours, listening to the other girls chatting about their former jobs and employers. I had nothing to relate and stared blankly out into the gray morning. This surely was not going to bring results. I mustered up enough courag to go up to the The manager was evidently in a hurry to close his morning’s business and scrawled a name and address on a piece of paper, saying: “Try this. If you don’t succeed, come back. I walked up Broadway and swung into Franklin Street. As I entered the building I heard a voice in its upper regis- ters heaping all ill luck available between heaven and hell upon the head of one of the budding members of the firm. I had seen razors flash in the air in the hotel kitchens. I had seen a cook throw his cleaver after a disobedient waiter, but to me the place and occasion enhanced this perhaps ; on Broadway. desk. daily scene into one of terror. “What the isa telephone for? thousand-dollar order.” already making for the door when the speaker and asked me my errand in a voice as This may mean the loss Ol ¢ I was wheeled around gentle as a child’s. I swallowed calculations while he questioned me further. “Any experience?” “No, “Any recommendations?’ “No, sir, but perhaps I can get one.” “Doc.” “How in the world do you expect to get a job?” “Recommendations don’t amount to that much,” I said, and waved my hand. ‘‘Anybody can get them. Try me If I don’t make good I'll go and you need not my surprise and made some rapid mental ? ’ I thought of for a week. pay a cent.” This seemed to please him. “Very well. I will pay you $6 a week to start with.” M*: APPLEBAUM, the senior partner, had a way of 4 lapsing into a reverie in the midst of his dictation. On one such occasion during my second week in the es- tablishment [ absent-mindedly drew a picture of his thought- ful and rather handsome countemance in shorthand book. “Where did I speak of the order from the Eldridge Cotton Mills. ting his finger on a line in the middle of a page. I hastily covered my sketch, but too late. It was a very bad but he evidently thought it was meant for him, He rose to his full height. ‘You imp, you—” But he got no further, for I was seized by an trollable fit of laughter. His ruffled countenance became as smooth as glass. ” my Somewhere here, wasn’t it,’” he suddenly said, put- like ness, uncon- ‘So you are not afraid of me—eh? “No, sir.” “You are the only one in the place that isn’t.” A little later he came over to my desk. “What do you say about going out to lunch with me to- day?” I floundered as a ship docking in a fog and could think of nothing to say. “TI—I only have my old suit on to-day. with you in that.” “Oh, that doesn’t matter. We will take a private room.” My face burned. My temples throbbed. I shot a side glance at him, grabbed my hat and coat, and made my way to one of my favorite haunts, the docks, with their ever- shifting scenes. There was the usual semicircle of long- shore hands, each man watching the foreman’s finger and hoping to be one of the lucky ones sent to unload an in- coming cargo. The unlucky ones slunk back in the shadows of the warehouses and saloons, while the lucky ones strode with firm steps toward the landing-places. So it is with New York, I said to myself. She picks out the fit and throws the rest aside. I had seen the men on the benches in the parks. I had seen tawdry finery and jewelry on upper Broadway, in the glare of the New York midnight, where painted lips smiled for bread and dragging feet coquetted for But I had been only an onlooker. Now the big city seemed to say: Take this, if you would find out. I slowly walked back to the office. It was late and I knew he would be I had thought it all over. He might have done this to take revenge. It would be well to wait a few days and see what would happen. Nothing happened for a week. I was hiding my stab under a care-free air and was on the road to recovery. I can’t go out a place to sleep. gone.

Then one afternoon, when | was writing circular letters for practice, I knew that he was observing me from his desk- chair. “Tt is only your greenness that saves you,” he began. I hammered on. “Why do you work so hard. me.” ‘I have to get more speed ‘You are swift enough for me, but I suppose you are planning to leave me.” “Yes, sir.” “Why are you in such a hurry to make money? von’t make it : “T am going to college next year. know it. “Ha-ha! You'll that comes along. bread and water.” “Neither can a man,” I said. “Do you know what—you are the only fair-haired woman I ever loved.” “You know as much about love as that ink-well there,” I said, and got up from my chair. That evening I told Mr. Applebaum I was not coming back the next day. Stop awhile and talk to You the easiest way.’ ” He might as well > never doit. <A girt can’t take any job She can’t sleep in hallways and live on HE newspaper columns and typewriter offices were again resorted to, and in a few days I obtained a position at a neat-looking electrical supply store on 125th Street. I had some confidence in myself by this time and asked eight dollarsa week. My new employer was an electri- cal engineer in his early thirties, and had recently started busi- ness as an electrical contractor. His vital energy permeated the whole place, arousing my enthusiasm. One day I said: “Mr. Harris, you have too many ceiling outlets in the specification for the Warner job. Shall I make the cor- rections?” He looked up. “Well, I have never had a stenographer compare plans and specifications before.” The work was a joy. When I had finished my letters I worked in the shop behind the office, testing batteries and taking inventory of the stock. “You don’t have to do this,” Mr. Harris said one day as I was helping the shop-boy measuring lead cable. “No, but I like it.” It was the middle of April. I had decided that, much as I liked the position, I now had practice enough to warrant bet- ter pay. “T’d pay you twenty-five a week if [had it. You are the best stenographer I ever had. Why don’t you try to do substitute work in June, when other stenographers go on their vacations? That pays three dollars a day.” “Thank you, indeed, for all your kindness. I remember.” shall WAS adrift again. The same old sickening tramp from office to office was repeated without satisfactory results. It was evidently a bad time to look for new jobs. I put an “ad” in the newspaper, adorned with as many desirable adjectives as I thought my experience would permit. I received only one reply. It was from a cigar factory on Avenue A. I scrambled up a narrow stairway which had a large hand on one side pointing to ‘‘Ostrow Brothers’ Cigar Factory.”’ On the first landing a huge printing-press was turning out page upon page of a Yiddish newspaper. The air was filled with the odor of moist printer’s ink. There was something human, almost uncanny about that machine. It seemed to stretch long arms after me as I passed up the next flight of stairs. I entered a large room with low windows and ceiling. The air was heavily laden with dust and the odor of tobacco leaves. In corners, confronted by big heaps of leaves, along worn tables, swarthy faces were bending over busy fingers. I felt my hands tighten so that my knuckles whitened. Good God, why was it that I was not one of these human machines, sorting and licking brown, dead leaves all day long. The foreman walked up to me. I pulled out my letter. “You belong downstairs.” I tumbled down the stairs and entered a small door at the right. All during the interview, which ended in my getting the position, I thought of the machine downstairs and the human machines upstairs. My senior employer seemed to belong to a bygone period and left the practical working out of problems to his younger brother. They were men of few words, and the office was for the most part quiet as a grave. The dim ware-loft behind the office, also, seemed to brood over past history. In one corner stood an old piano, covered with dust. “That was my wife’s,”’ the older brother said once, as he saw me looking at it. ‘She is insane.” From the silent brooding downstairs I often made my escape to the upper story to talk to the hands. To return the visits, they often stopped at the office door, when the bosses were out, to offer me drinks from their foaming beer I smiled and shook my head, but I liked to have them do it. They were not mere machines, after all. The Ostrows seemed to think I had come to stay. Soon the younger brother began to unfold the mysteries of ledgers and journals to me. I had not forgotten the advice of Mr. Harris. “Mr. Ostrow,” I said, ‘‘I would very much like to know all about bookkeeping, but you must not waste your time. am going to leave in June to get three dollars a day.” was then getting twelve dollars a week. “Wait till I see my brother. Perhaps we can raise you.” “But I am going to college in the fall.” So on an evening ir. early June I walked home through the East Side for the last time. The houses had poured their contents of mothers and children onto the sidewalks. I pails. — stumbled over humanity at almost every step. Hurdy- gurdies were playing and children were dancing. I touched their heads as I passed, hurrying on toward the green tr and fresh air of Central Park. 5 HEN I reached home I found Ruth pacing up and down the room. She had been working one month in a chorus at ten dollars a week, when the show broke up. Since then she had worked at odd jobs and was now re- hearsing with a company which was going to Atlantic City and other summer resorts. i “It just seems that we are expected to be bad,” she sa “Not only do some of the agents tell us outright that cannot make our expenses on the salary they offer, but even the girls themselves fill the dressing-rooms with such talk as they call smart. I told them to-day what I thought of it, and now they keep quiet when I am in the room. You remember how they put ‘itching-powder’ in my tights in the last company because I wouldn’t lend one of their ‘carriage-girls’ my make-up box.” “Why don’t you come downtown with me to-morrow? I am looking for a new job.” “Again? And to have to be at my desk from nine till five every day? It would surely kill me. Besides, my singing teacher tells me that next fall she can get me into a first-class company. She is giving me lessons for nothing, and she would not do tleat if she did not think I had a voice.”’ “Oh! Ye'll take the high road and I’ll take the low road sifted in through the open window. We looked at each other, laughed, and set about getting dinner ready. “Yours is evidently the high road,” I said. I found a number of substitute positions at the typewriter office the next morning, and within an hour I was perusing all the literature available in the waiting-room of a large hardware firm on Nineteenth Street. In the subsequent test letter given me by the head stenographer I encountered several technical words I had just learned. But my triumph was to be of short duration. My employer was very much upset—firstly, because I had gone to lunch without wait- ing for him to put in an appearance. Secondly, because I was new in the place and did not know what stationery to use for the different letters. At last he swore. I picked up my book, shoved back the desk-slide, and began tran- scribing the letters he had already given me. My employer now came over to my table and grumbled about the paper I was using for an inter-house letter. “Leave me alone,” I growled, and attacked the keys so savagely that he shuffled away. The head stenographer came over to see me. “He is always like that. Don’t mind him. He has nervous dyspepsia, and he just came back from his vacation.” I had to laugh in spite of myself, but said: “T am not coming to-morrow. I am sorry. all the work I want, and I do mind him.” Next day I visited one large electrical concern after an- other and by noon had a promise of substitute work for the entire summer at three dollars a day. The first week I was put in the accounting department. To me the work was a dull, dead grind. I felt as though a gray film was gradually growing in front of my eyes. I began to see things. Fig- ures slipped out of their appointed columns; the o’s were bushings; the 8’s were hooks. I was back on 125th Street writing about wiring and motors and genera- tors. If they did not give me something I felt I should go mad, or perhaps cultivate that stolid indifference to all things earthly that seemed to be characteristic of all the faces in the accounting-room. From that day I was constantly watching for an oppor- tunity to get back downstairs. When I entered one morn- ing the accountant whose work I handled was not in his customary place. I practised shorthand awhile, read awhile, and then went to see the head stenographer. ’ I can get HE next morning I was told my accountant was ill. I was then sent to one of the small offices and was greeted by an iron-haired, kind-eyed engineer. He reminded me of Mr. McDonald, and I looked no further. “So you are the girl who chooses employers?” I turned scarlet. “I do hope I'll do, sir,’’ I stammered. “We'll see,” he laughed. “When is Mr. Allison’s stenographer coming back?” I asked Miss Tarbell, breathlessly, as I returned from lunch. “He has no regular stenographer. He travels a good deal.” I drew a sigh of relief. I worked early and late. I studied electrical journals and physics in my spare time and visited power-houses on Saturday afternoons. Mr. Allison let me carry all the work I could, but whenever rush work necessitated my staying at my desk beyond the accustomed lunch hour he piled fruit and sandwiches on my desk. I would have tied his shoe-laces had he asked me. At the time I was beginning to think of my college-en- trance examinations he left for the’ South. It was fall time, college time. The train was slowly pulling out of the Grand Central Station. I was still on the platform talking to Ruth when “Doc” bounded in through the gate waving a bunch of violets. “‘Here’s to the fresh!” As I looked I saw that his watch fob was not in its place. I looked at his face—there was a light in his eyes I had not seen before. I almost crushed the flowers. ‘‘‘ Doc,’ I love you,” I whispered to myself. Then the train drew me away. One last look at the two figures walking back to the din of the city, and then settling back in my chair I fell to dreaming of venerable professors and huge halls full of books and dusty sunbeams. (Continued next month)

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= 1 talk tht of You hts in their rrow? 1e till y my » into hing, vice.” pad,” tting vriter using large juent tered mph nuch wait- use I mery cked tran- loyer aper has on.” | get - an- - the was fas a 1ally Fig- o's on lera- ould o all the por- orn- | his read sill. was ided Ys nch. FOK rd and on vork ying viled his -en- ywly the ugh By ROBERT and ELIZABETH SHACKLETON How to Build in Cupboards T may safely be set down as an axiom that every house needs more cupboards; that no house ever had quite enough of them! There are always more things to put away than there is cupboard space to put themin; and the bareness of cupboard which sur- prised Old Mother Hubbard had reference, it will be noted, to shortage of food, not shortage of dishes in which to put the food. She, like every other house- keeper, doubtless had need of another cupboard. Of cupboards, there is the kind that is bought as a piece of furniture—often an admirable and beautiful thing—and there is the kind that is built into the house and has become part of its permanent construction. This latter kind is the better, as a general thing, on account of its possible architectural excellence and because, for fine glass or china, its steadiness, its unshakableness, is of dis- tinct value. The built-in cupboard is so utilitarian, and may be so attractive as well, that it is astonishing how it has been neglected by house-builders and architects. The kitchen cupboard, indeed, is often remembered, but not the built- in cupboard for the dining-room, the parlor, the library, the bedroom. Yet such cupboards are always useful, they may be extremely ornamental, and they can easily be built in if they are not already there. In most houses, except the old houses of a century or more ago, a space that is absolutely neglected is that on either side of the chimney-breast. Just look at your chimney- breast, if it is a well-proportioned one, as it ought to be, and you will at once realize what a great amount of space has gone to waste; what a great amount of false-work there is. One side of the chimney-breast may nowadays very likely be utilized for hot-air or steam pipes, but even then there is still the other side, usable for cupboards. All of that generous six feet of wall is not occupied by one or two small smoke flues and the fireplace opening. A fire-side cupboard, with glass-paneled door A cupboard, open and closed, built in a wall recess. 125 entle Art of ome-Making = 3 Sem | | | To make a cupboard in the chimney-breast, opening toward the side, not the front, is merely a matter of cutting away some lath and plaster (these impressive chimneys being seldom of solid brick), and putting in shelves and a paneled door. We made two such cupboards ourselves, and they were really very simple propositions; so simple, that to say it was done is really to say how to do it. Such cupboards are of infinitely varied advantage. They are used, in some houses, for the convenience of tobacco and drinkables; the children’s playthings may be kept there; in a fireside cupboard in the ancient Bourne mansion on Cape Cod there is a shelf that has been for generations the resting-place of the family Bible. A chimney cupboard in our own upper hall—shallow, being only six inches deep and high: set on the wall—answers admirably, with its four close-set shelves, as the family medicine-chest. In short, such cupboards stand not only for convenience, but for household neatness and the general comfort of having such stowage places. And they may just as well be not only for utilitarianism, but for display. We needed a cupboard for some bits of old glass and a few pieces of genuine Sévres, and within a chimney-breast, just where a door opened into the library, was a cupboard of just the desired size. But, like most old cupboards of this fireside kind, it had a tall and narrow wooden door, and for this glass and china we wanted a glass door. And nothing could have been easier than to get it; for it merely meant the cutting out of the old panels and putting in panes of glass—leaving the door itself other- wise unaltered—and the thing was accomplished. Once the taste for built-in cupboards is acquired you will want something of more importance than these slender convenient fireside receptacles; you will want something to add distinct beauty and dignity to your house. And it should never be forgotten that the rule for all homemakers is that if you really want a thing, really need a thing, you should at once, and seriously, set about getting that thing. In every house there is some place, although it may not at first sight be obvious, where a cupboard of importance can be built in. HERE was need in our own household of an addi- tional cupboard for china; not, this time, collected china or old or rare pieces, but china for actual use, including a dinner service; and therefore the dining-room was the only place for it. And the outcome furnished a new answer to the familiar old riddle, When is a door not a door? From the dining-room a door opened into the hall, and another door into the back part of the hall. This second door stood just where we should have liked the china cup- board to be; whereupon there naturally came the thought that perhaps we could put it there! A few days’ observation made it evident that this second door was practically unused, and that it certainly was not required; that the hall no more needed those two doors than the proverbial cat needed two tails; upon which the decision to change the doorway into a cupboard was made. The ease with which the change was made was such as to give encouragement for any kind of home alteration. Shelves, and an arching top, and pilasters—and the thing was done. The pilasters were made from two table-legs, of Empire design, antiques, with the acanthus and twisted ropes; for these two legs, sawed lengthwise and set on in pairs, one above the other, on either side of the opening, were just what was needed. Everything in the room being old-timey in character made such pilasters particularly fitting to set off the new—but apparently old!—cupboard. Although we stand so strongly for the possibilities of altering one’s house to suit tastes and needs, we do not mean that every such alteration can be made easily or inexpen- sively. On the contrary, there are some entirely feasible alterations which demand trouble and expense. But such a matter as changing a doorway into a cupboard is among the numerous very ‘simple and very easy things to do. In the case we are describing it was done with an ease that was almost absurd, considering that a capacious cupboard was added to the dining-room without taking up an inch of room space; capacious because the division wall was eighteen inches thick, it having been the original outside wall of the house, the dining-room wing having been built on after- ward, and this eighteen inches thus becoming the depth of the doorway cupboard. RDINARILY, such a cupboard ought to appear as a cupboard and no longer look like a door; but in this case the original door was needed for the best effect, as it and the other door into the hall stood on either side of the fireplace, matching and balancing each other. So the door was left in place, in front of the cupboard. When the door is open the cupboard shows as a cupboard should. When the door is closed there is no hint of the presence of a cup- board and the door serves the very useful purpose of keeping dust from the china. That this is a cupboard, not for what may be termed display or collector’s china, but entirely for china for regular use, makes it the less necessary to give it an always open front. Ail the interior woodwork is painted white, the pilasters and arch being mahogany, as is the door itself. As china in constant use is not a convenient thing to keep on low shelves, the lower part of this cupboard is inclosed by two white wooden panels like little doors, below a shelf twenty- eight inches above the floor. This shuts in a space which is used for the storage of the winter supply of jelly. Here the shelves are close together, for shelves six inches apart will hold jelly glasses perfectly. This shelved space has room for two hundred glasses of jelly, and gives a dark, safe and very convenient place for its safe keeping. These small paneled doors are part of the interior of the cup- board, and disappear from sight like the rest of the cup- board when the main door is closed. The sides of ‘this china cupboard are the jambs of the doorway; and the back, against which the platters and dishes rest, shows as a simply paneled background of solid wood, because another door has been fitted in there, to show as a door from the hall side. It is nailed in place, for to leave the possibility of opening it would mean the breaking of china relying on its stability. One side of the door is thus the back of the cupboard, and the other side looks like asimple door. In this case, it being practically out of sight in a corner of the hall, this solution was easy and unob- jectionable; but, if there had been reason for it, the door- casings could have been taken off and the space lathed and plastered over on the hall side. (Continued on page 142) A doorway cupboard, with closed space below

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126 Prizes You will find the puzzles below. Now, puzzlers all, send me your answers as soon as you find them. The prizes are many and good. There will be five beautiful books given for five good lists, and ten sheets, one to each, of embossed pictures in col- ors for ten good lists, and ten more will place their senders on our famous Roll of Honor. Every Happylander try! Send answers by March 10th to Aunt Joy, Care of HARPER'S BAZAR, Franklin Square, New York City HAT AUNT JOY BE- LIEVES.—I suppose you all read in our pages not long ago how many boys and girls there were in our big club, the largest one, I am sure, of its kind in the whole wide world. Over eleven thousand, and more coming every day. I feel certain that if you will all help just a little we may soon be able to announce that we have twenty thousand Happyland members. Think of that number of children pledged to daily deeas of thoughtful kind- ness and try to realize what a great, wide- spreading influence for good they will be! I know you will all rejoice with me when my belief is fulfilled and I am equally sure you will be glad to help along that happy time. If each one of my dear Happylanders will this month tell some friend all about our great Happyland Club and what it stands for, we would have our new thousands Suppose you do this as one of your kind deeds this month. It would please me and I have yet to see the child who has not been thankful to hear the glad news of our immense Kindness gathering right away. and its good times. Another thing that would make me very happy this month and that I believe all the members can do easily, would be to have single Happylander write to me. What, some one says, do you want over ten thousand letters? Yes, I do, or postal- cards, if there is not time to write letters. Lovingly your friend, Aunt Joy, Franklin Square, New York City. every Care Harper’s BAZAR, -rize L Prize Letter BOOK was offered some time ago for the best letter written or dictated by a child under seven, and it has been sent to the dear little writer of this charming little letter. I would like very much Happyland Club, DEAR Aunt Joy, to be a member of the though I am only five years old. I have a beautiful cat named Mr. Mittens. I havea beautiful picture of him hanging by my bed, with a gold frame. Mittens is very nice, although he ate a rabbit and only left his nose and his skin. I have a sister named \lice who belongs to the Happyland Club. She is nine years old. I love to do errands for my mother. I will try to do good to anything. My sister loves to read and we have to talk pretty loud to her when she is reading, and she only likes to read verses to me, and not stories. I am learning to read slowly but surely. I have a nurse named Ethel and lots of dolls, my biggest named Molly. MARGARET I. WALTER. Kinks - Puzzle Four books will be given for good answers to the kinks Send incomplete lists if you cannot solve them all. send answers by March 10th to Aunt Joy, Harper’s Bazar, New York City on Roll of Honor. | Numerical Enigma | My whole is a flowering vine of 11 | letters. My 7-3-8-10-4 is a near relative. My 9-3- hand. My I1-10-9 is a very timid animal. My 6-2-10-11 is a fish. 7-8-9-10-4 is a part of the an 10-2-3-4-10-5 is solitary. = _ — iw ee IE er rAGINE WRIGer ENR GH Happyland Mail Box I AM eleven years old, and I want to join the Happyland Club. My grandpa founded the Carlisle Indian School. He is not in charge now, but I go over there often and visit my Indian friends. The day they played football here I had my picture taken with the team. I sat in front between Thorpe’s knees and held the Carlisle pen- nant. Yours truly, MASON ALEXANDER PRATT, PENNSYLVANIA. E went to the Orphans’ Home. “There are thirty children there. We have their names and ages. Thank you for the pictures you sent for them. We went out chestnutting since I wrote to you. It wasa beautiful day, but we didn’t get many chestnuts. We all had a good time. We went about 9 A.M. and got home about 4P.M. Wecarried our dinner and went ona straw ride. All the club couldn’t go, but eighteen went. FLORENCE L. CouLsy, President, H. B. K. C. K. C., MARYLAND. M* club meets on every Monday, in the school assembly-room, at noon. We have a paper every week of what different members are doing. I think one of the girls who roe the paper is going to send it to you. I have been president, and Margaret Jones has been secretary for six weeks, and the next six weeks Eleanor Miller will be president and Mary Bird secretary. Your niece, Mary W. Cook, MARYLAND. WE have held the first meeting of our new club and had a fine time. We took votes for a name, and we call it The Puritan Mayflower Club. Do you like the name? I hope you do. We also decided that we should have costumes like little Puritans to wear on meeting days. We are going to try to have the club meet once a week. My sister is the vice-president, Agnes Otto is secretary, Marjorie is treasurer. Yours truly, KATHERINE WaAy, PENNSYLVANIA. OUR nice letter was much enjoyed. I can now tell you that we have five more members, making twelve in all. Now I believe that we are entitled to the pennant, are we not? Would you like a report of our meetings? We meet at the different homes of our members once a month, and our leader, a young lady who graduates from the School of Music this year, opens the meeting with prayer. Then we each give a report of kind deeds that we have done during the month. Then we plan some for H. Y. P. Others will receive entry Please Numerical Enigma My whole is a flower of to letters. My 2-6-4-8-3-2-1 is a skilled workman. My 10-2-6-4-8-I is a boy’s name. My 7-6-9-3-4 is to have confidence. Cc: SF. Answers to January Kinks Hidden Names.—1. Esther. 2. Oscar. 3. Franklin. 4. Ella. 5. Ruth or Ella. Reading Backward and Forward— | 1. Smart, trams. 2. Pat, tap. 3. Tip, pit. 4. Ned, den. | things that we can do for others as a club. After this we play games and have a good time together. We have visited the chil- dren’s ward in our University Hospital twice, and taken flowers, books, and pictures to the children. We sang for them, too, and also for the older people who are in the hospital. With our best love, FaitH C. Sway, MICHIGAN. WILL tell you about my hen, about four years old. Sheis very tame. Her name is Polly. Sheisa Wyandotte. She always talks to me in her clucking sound. When she hatches I go and feed her corn out of a large spoon, and water her. She laid eggs every day until she wanted to set. I made her a nest and as soon as it was made she got on it and was happy. Lovingly your friend, DorotTHy BRUNNER, OHIO. ET me tell you about my squirrel. He is so quick that I call him Lightning. The other day he chewed all of mother’s lace curtain, and one morning before breakfast we could not see him anywhere, and at last we found him in a little cardboard box we had fixed for him. When we found out that he wanted a nest we put something in it for him to make a nest out of and the next morning he had taken it all down to the bottom of his cage. I try to be very kind to him. With love, DorotHy STEVELY, CANADA. TRY to doa kind act every day. To-day I gave a tired, thirsty horse a drink and a head of lettuce. The delivery-boy’s horse expects me to give him a drink every time he comes, and looks so disappointed if he don’t see me around. I try not to disappoint him. I worked hard over the puzzles and hope I may win. Sincerely yours, FRaNcEs E. HAINES, COLORADO. Animal Letter HIS animal letter won its writer a place on the Roll of Honor. DEAR MASTER BILLIE,—I’m just so lone- some. Betty is kind to me since you left, just as you said she would be, and hasn’t forgotten to feed me once. But still, she isn’t like Master Billie. When you come home you will be awfully surprised at my appearance. I’m getting so swelled up; but don’t let that worry you, for it’s only pride. Betty and the girls call me their hero and treat me like the king of beasts. The day after you left home little Jose- phine fell into the lily-pond. I was lying near the bank and saw her fall, so I swam hs Pal Sr p/8 ey wie 4X, ” | Roll of Honor : oe Eunice Cole, Grace “7 | Lustig, Franklin Chap- pel, Margaretta Reese, Nina Barrett, Edith Bar. rett, Mary Cook, Maude ~ Grennan, Elizabeth Lively, Victoria Lively, Alice Grove, Vinie Scott, | Marjorie Bu rkhardt, | Helen Jones, Virginia Petrasik, Morris Wads- worth, Olga Seydel, Mil- ; dred Harris, Fern Neal, | Elinor Stanley, John | Grealish, Virginia Max- well, Ruth Davenport, Mildred Barnett, Cath- | erine O’Herlihy, Belcher | | Jones, Wilson Wood, Walter Velhage, Francis Haines, Fred Yorston, Ted Warren, Susan Bal- kam, Louise Graham, Ruth Bird, Dorothy Haskins, Edward Reid, Kallona Prosole, Ralph Hopkins, Harold Hatt, Margaret McGann, Her- bert Currie, Wayland Du | Bois, Marion K. Bates. in and pulled her out just the way I do sticks you throw in for me. Josephine’s master has promised me a new collar with my name printed on it. Now isn’t that something to be proud of? I'd be the happiest dog in the world if it were not for two things. The first thing is that my beloved master Billie is not with me and you know I could never be per- fectly happy if you were not by my side. The second thing is, sad to say, that I have a long ugly scratch on my nose which hurts me most terribly, and I got it trying to be nice. Fluffy has four of the dearest kittens and she keeps them in a basket under the stairs. I was trying to be friendly with them when all of a sudden a long, slender white paw reached out and before I knew it I felt that scratch on my nose. I think it was a most unladylike thing for her to do. I forgave her once for eating up my meat, but for doing this—never. Your affectionate dog, CARLO. By GENEVIEVE KELLER, OREGON. Prize Animal Letter (Supposed to be written by a cat.) LUCKY IS VERY UNLUCKY. DEAR MISsTREss,—Since you went away I haven’t had very good treatment. There are so many children around that tease me that I am very uncomfortable. Mrs. Green, the lady you left me with, never feeds me. I have to make all my meals on rats and mice. I think rats are all right once in a while, but I prefer milk, meat, or fish. I have had a great deal of trouble lately. Monday night it thundered and lightened, and I was out in it all. I got under Mrs. Green’s bedroom window and cried, trying to see if she wouldn’t take pity on me and —all of a sudden something struck me, and it wasn’t lightning; it was a bucket of water. It gave me a terrible shock and took some of the fur off my back; but it also killed some of the fleas that I’ve gotten since I have been so neglected. Then Tuesday I had more trouble. Some children in the neighborhood had a circus, and were getting a collection of animals for it. The admission was three pins. I was dressed up in baby’s clothes with a bonnet on and a veil over my face, and it tickled my nose so that I tore a large hole in it. That night they nearly broke my legs getting the baby clothes off me. I have forgotten what catnip or fish tastes like, but I know I will soon find out when you return. Your true pet, Ltcky. By HELEN S. Copy, CONNECTICUT. All children are invited to join The Baza ar’ s Happyland Club. There are no fees. Cut out this coupon (or copy it if Mother objects to your cutting her Bazar) and mail to ~ » “oO ’ Fan) Bunt Joy, Fbarper 6 Darar, Dear Aunt Joy: me a membership card, Signed J wish to join Che Happyland Glub. Franklin Square, Tew York Gity. Lleave send J promise to do one hind deed every day. Street —— al

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The Monkey’s Feast By Ellen Velvin, F.Z.S. HERE was a little monkey once, who lived with all his people in a forest in Africa, and a very happy little monkey he was. There were lovely bushy trees where he could play hide-and-seek with the other monkeys. In the forest were beau- tiful fruits and nuts and all kinds of berries. But what all the monkeys loved more than any of these things were parrots’ feathers. These feathers grew in the tails of the parrots, and the quills of them con- tained some delicious juicy stuff, and there were many quarrels and fights among the monkeys over this delightful juice. The little monkey was not old enough to know about this, but one day some of the older ones took him up high in a tree, and told him to sit at the end of the branch and make the parrots look at him all the time. And while he did this, the others crept slyly up behind the parrots and pulled their tail feathers out. _Of course the poor parrots scream- ed, because it is very painful to have the feathers pulled out. And so, being very angry as well, and seeing the little monkey just in front of them they pecked him until he fell off the branch of the tree, right down to the ground, where he lay for a time quite badly hurt. When he felt a little better, and had cried a little—very like a young baby—he looked up and saw that the other monkeys were still teasing the poor parrots. So, very quietly and quickly he climbed up the tree again, and getting just behind the other monkeys, who were much too intent on the parrots to notice him, he suddenly pulled their tails one after the other, and so hard and fiercely that the monkeys, taken quite by sur- prise, all tumbled off just as he had tumbled a short time before. The frenzied shrieks of the monkeys, with their chattering, frightened the par- rots so terribly that they too screamed and all flew off. So that when the monkeys recovered themselves and thought of going up the tree again, there was not a single parrot to be seen anywhere. There was only the little monkey sitting up there chat- tering at them and scolding them angrily. All the monkeys were terribly angry, and there was such a frightful noise in the forest that the little animals, who did not know what it was about, ran and hid them- selves until things were quiet again. But as the monkeys ran up after the little one, he ran from branch to branch, and at last got on to another tree, where, as they were very tired, the other monkeys left him. Now, before leaving the tree the little monkey had picked up a feather which had fallen in a branch of the tree, and without thinking of what he was doing put the quill end in his mouth and sucked it. It was so delicious that he could not bear to let it go, and still had it when he got to the other tree. And as he was thinking about it a parrot came just in front of him without knowing he was there. And ina moment, I am sorry to say, the little monkey stretched out his hand and pulled out one of its tail feathers! But he was not quick enough. The parrot turned round and gave him such a peck that he crept down out of its way as fast as he could. But the sad part of this story is that after this that little monkey was just as bad as all the others. He would never stay in front of the parrots again, but he would go with the others and pull out the feathers, and ate, or sucked, more than all of the other monkeys put together. But then, you see, he was only a monkey, and did not know any better. And these monkeys enjoyed their feast of feathers just as much as we enjoy our ice-credm and cake. The Black Art GAME much enjoyed by both young and old and one which mystifies, for a long time, those not in the secret, is called the Black Art. The guesser must have, unknown to the rest of the company, a con- federate. This player requests the guesser to leave the room while the rest of the com- pany decide on the object they wish the guesser to name on his return. When the guesser comes back into the room the confederate puts questions to him, asking, “Is it this?” pointing to any object in the room, or, “Is it that?’”’ and so on. There are five letters in the word “black,” so the confederate must ask five questions before pointing to the correct article. The guesser must also keep good tally. In order to fully mystify the assemblage and give no clue to the method by which the guesser names the articles, it may be agreed upon by the pair beforehand to alternate the ways of putting the questions. The first may be as already given. The second may give the clue by having a black object named before the correct one. If a lamp has been selected the interrogator asks, “Ts it this?’’ naming various objects, then selects something black and asks, “Is it H.Y. P. | Seeehee Billy and ILLY was tired of making sand pies and building trenches, so he threw himself down and thrust his elbow right into the center of a gorgeous-looking “wedding cake’’ which he had just been erecting, and looked down at the little silvery waves at his feet. Now and again when the sea calmed a little he could see a dark point jutting up above the waves; it was a high-rock, and Billy began to stare at it with wondering eyes. Mermaids always clung to rocks when they appeared in the water, he had “Would you like me to take you down into the caves below the sea?” that?” The guesser then knows that the next one is the correct object. Still another way is to ask, “Is it this?” touching various articles, and changing to “Ts it that?” when the correct one is touched. If done without affectation this will not attract the notice of the company for some time. Again the confederate points to the va- rious articles not chosen with an upward motion. When his finger drops downward the guesser understands that the motion means the proper article and promptly answers in the affirmative. All the magic ways should be carefully learned and practised beforehand, as an They pecked him until he fell off the branch error brings ridicule on the devotees of the Black Art. Used with care, this plan puzzles every one until, after all are tired, explanations are in order. CHARLES LIVINGSTON BULK. heard. What fun it would be if one of these lovely creatures from the depths of the sea would come and play with him! Billy just went on staring at that pointed rock with round, wondering eyes which looked very eager. “I say, mermaid, you're a very long time coming,” he mur- mured, reproachfully. “I do wish you'd hurry up, for it ‘ll soon be time to go in—” He was interrupted by the sudden sound of low, rippling laughter, as though silvery music had crept in between the waves which tossed the soft, sweet notes toward him from their foamy crests. As he still watched the distant rock it slowly moved, and a delicate, graceful little creature floated up through the waves toward him, the sheen of her long golden hair glistening as the sun sparkled on the water. The mermaid had come, and Billy’s heart leaped with delight. As she came nearer he could see her little pink hands fluttering above the spray. “T’ve come, Billy. Oh, I’m so glad you want me!” she cried in the tenderest little voice ima- ginable. ‘I’ve been watching you ever so long and I’ve been simply longing to have a good romp with you.” “Romp!” he echoed in be- wilderment. ‘‘Why, I thought you could only comb your hair and stare into a looking-glass all day!” “Then all I can say is that you know precious little about mermaids, dear silly, foolish Billy,” she cried, laughing mer- rily. ‘I, for one, have never looked into a looking-glass in my life—but I see my reflection in the water sometimes. Now, what shall we do?’ she asked him. ‘Would you like me to take you down into the caves below the sea?”’ “T should just think I would!” cried Billy, promptly jumping up, when he stopped short. “But how can I reach you? I can never get out there; I should be drowned,” he said, looking at the boisterous waves that played between him and the dainty little thing that lightly swayed on the surface of the water. “Oh no, you won't. All you have to do is to close your eyes tight and throw up your arms and I'll catch hold of your hand. Now come along! Hurry up,” and Billy gave a gasp, closed his eyes quite tight, and 127 the Mermaid By Nellie Pullock the next moment opened them to look into the prettiest and bluest eyes he had ever seen, and the brightness of the mer- maid’s hair almost dazzled him. ““Won’t we just have some fun!” she cried, squeezing his hand ever so tight and dimpling with joy. Then she lightly touched the pointed rock with her tiny hand, and it glided away and showed a long winding staircase that glittered like gold. There were such a lot of steps to go down that it seemed to him they would never come to the end. “Here we are!” cried the sea-nymph, merrily. ‘And the next thing you have to do is to jump into this little golden boat,” and they both got in. ‘Look, what do you think of our Sea - shell Fairies?’’ she cried, as the little skiff started off, and Billy, looking across to where she nodded, saw rows of tiny little pink fairies sitting beside heaps of shells which they were tinting with long fine seaweed brushes. ‘‘You see all those shells? Well, they’ve all* got to be tinted, and just before all the little boys and girls go down to the seaside for their holidays the fairies go up at moonlight and scatter them all over the shore. Those fairies are nearly always working, for as fast as they finish tinting there come in heaps more for them to do.” Billy could only stare hard for a time —it was too wonderful for words. He looked up at the tall polished pillars which the mermaid told him were made of seaweed, and everywhere he could see tiny little water nymphs scattering sea-shells on banks of seaweed. “Why are they doing that?” he asked. “Listen,” said the mermaid, softly, putting up a tiny pink finger. ‘‘Tell me what you can hear.” “The most wonderful and the softest music I’ve ever heard,”’ answered Billy. “They are making that music,’’ she said, laughing at the amazement in his eyes. “Now we'll go and have a look at the fishes. It’s their playtime now and they have great fun; they are the most mis- chievous sprites imaginable,”’ and the mer- maid opened a little green door which was hidden in the wall. “Jump up quickly,’’ she cried, helping him out of the golden boat. ‘Now, just look at the herrings playing leapfrog—you know that’s their favorite game, and that’s why they have such bright eyes. The whales like blind-man’s-buff. Look at that monster over there tumbling about in the water.” The quaint doings of the fishes were so amusing that he just laughed till his sides ached. The herrings had the queerest way of giggling in the water, and once a silver-backed mackerel popped up his shining head and winked right up into Billy’s face, which sent him off into a peal of laughter. “They are having a lark. Do you just watch them always?” he asked. But the mermaid sighed a little and shook her head. “Oh dear, no. It just happens I’ve got a holiday to-day and I can do what I like.” “‘Oh, and where are all the other mer- maids?” he asked. “They are down in the mermaids’ cave, which is beneath us. You see, I just thought I’d like to have a peep above water to-day and then I saw you,” she said, smiling at him with her blue eyes. ‘I hope you’ve enjoyed it as much as I have, dear,” she whispered, softly. “T should just say I have,” exclaimed Billy, looking across at the little herrings, who giggled together as they splashed and jumped about. “And now I'll have to take you back, for it I were late I shouldn’t have any holiday next time. If you like, there’s just time for a game of blind-man’s-buff with those great monster whales.” “Oh, goodness!” cried Billy, shivering. “Wouldn’t they eat me up?” But the mermaid laughed, merrily. ‘Just see. I’m coming too,” she cried, taking Billy’s hand and jumping into the water, where the whales made peculiar noises and opened their mouths to such an extent that Billy jumped with fright. “They are laughing,” the mermaid told him, “and that’s their way of bidding us welcome. Now come along, or we shall be caught,” and taking his hand, she leaped away through the splashing water, while Billy shouted with joy and gasped as a monster whale with a handkerchief across his eyes made a plunge toward them. (Continued on page 145)

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March Harper's : Bazar 1913 SN ymca ; OR (Continued from page 12 ; Ideal division for income of $2,500. “with five in family—two adults, three children: Ci cracmnceeuy sexes 25% or $625 ct ea kaewiwey ae 20% or 500 Clothes 15% o1 375 Operating expenses . 15% Higher life....... contass See Gas 100% or $2,500 Actual division of $2,500 income for family of five living in town in Ma: assac husetts, suburb of Boston: eee 25% or $625 OS SSS 25% or 925 Clothes.... ; 12% or 300 Operating expenses 13% o1 325 Higher life. 25°, 0r 625 Actual division for family having $2,500 in- come, with four in family—father, mother, and two older children—living in New Jersey, near New York: Sree 32% or $800 Rent ; 18°, or 450 Clothes 20% or 500 18% or 450 12% ¢ or _300 100‘ 7 or $2,500 Operating e xpen nses Higher isso saks The “Proper Amount” |‘ necessarily depends upon the we ay in which this fe amily is living chether one should say “‘the amount propor- tionate for clothes is too high.” It may easily be all right. A little over one hundred dollars each—to be exact, $125 for each person yearly—is not an extravagant amount for certain people upon whom there are social demands. It is too much to put upon small children, yet it is always to be remembered that shoes for the growing child make a large item in the clothes account. One cannot say didacti- ally “you should do this or that.”” One can only try to help aie re there are obvious mistakes being made, and to give that assistance which will make right choice in these things possible. The Economy of Spending HE question before us is one of right choice. This is one of the three ways by which the resources of any person or country may be preserved or prosperity increased. Devine has given the three ways as increase of production, better choice, or better consumption, and of these he con- siders the last to contain the greatest possibilities in this especial line. In the language of economics the questions before us are: ‘‘ How can one’s whole expenditure or consump- tion be so distributed between the present and the future that the greatest amount of satisfaction will result?” and, ‘How may the consumption of the present be so ordered that it will result in the greatest total of satisfaction?” These two questions and their answers form a chapter on the economies of spending and saving, and the first question relates to the saving, the second to the expending, of any given amount. To those who have not studied the subject economy indicates nothing but the saving of money, that person being the most economical who lives on the least amount. But this is not the wis2 nor even the right view of the uses of money. Actual, proper economy is found in the wise proportioning and expenditure of any given sum in such a manner as to yield the best result. And in this world of necessary barter and exchange one must learn to expend in order to be able to save. Two women may each be giver $25 to cover a stated length of time. If with this one pays the rent and buys the food, having nothing left, and the other pays rent, buys the food, and has something left for clothes or operating expenses, she is the richer woman even with the income at the same figure— this, provided food and rent are of good quality. are necessary—one being right choice, the other the right use of things. And upon right choice the attention must be put first, for many, if not most of the troubles seen in the budgets come from wrong choice. One very noticeable thing in many of the budgets sent is a tendency to pay an excess amount for rent. This is by no means true in all cases, but it is in many. On one hand the proportion for rent is too high; on the other there is a failure to see what the selection of the house involves in the expense of maintaining it. For instance, a young married woman living in Wisconsin writes: “My husband earns $15 a week. We have been boarding ever since we were married, but wish to go to housekeeping as soon as possible. We pay $9 a week for board and have $6 left for other things. How can we save the $100 neces- sary for house furnishings on that sum in six months? I plan to take a $35 house instead of a flat for $22.50 so as to take roomers to help pay the rent. Is this wise?” helped. Examine the Proposition ‘HE first thing to do is to ascertain exactly what the proposition means in figures. At $15 a week in six months, or twenty-six WOGME, 3 GCONMOG.«« . ccc cc ads $390 At $9 a week in six months, or twenty-six weeks, board will be st staraahene a oe Oe Leaving for other expenses $156 It is obvious that if $56 will cover those other expenses during those six months, the $100 can be saved in that time. But will the $56 carry them through? It will all depend upon the demands of those young people. Car fare for twenty-six weeks at 15 cents GOS TOE GE GUID s «55 nos bin hecavese@s 23.40 Laundry for twenty-six weeks at only 50 cents a weeks MANES.....6..ccccccesece 13.00 $36.40 Now if, being just married, they have clothes enough to last them through this time, and going to housekeeping is the Big Thing, they can probably save the desired amount in that time. But the second question in the letter demands more attention. This refers to the taking of a house at $35 a month and taking boarders to pay the rent. Let us figure on the entire situation, putting it as graphically as possible. The amount earned at $15 a week is for the $780 [OIE ee retin 45% or $351 NS Se nrerrcrrare 15% or 117 I ee iiaciare cia doon esas 10%or 78 Operating expenses...... 10o%or 78 WE ERs S.ccocceocenad 20% or 156 100% or $780 At present the actual division of this is or has been given me in two sections only, as: Food, rent, and operating expenses are grouped into one division known as board at $9 a week .. 60 Leaving for clothes, laun- dry, and higher life..... 40% or 312 % or $468 100% or $780 In the budget the combined amounts for rent, food, and operating expenses make a percentage of 70% in place of 60%, or an amount of $546 in place of the $468 they are actually paying, leaving a considerable margin outside of actual expenses. It would seem at first consideration that those young people should continue to board, but these first figures do not tell the entire story. All people want and should want a home, a place of their own. It is a natural, right, and to-be-cherished desire, an ideal want. When at first sight or thought the figures seem to mean that there will be greater difficulty in living within one’s means in a home of one’s own in place of boarding, the matter should not end there, but other considerations be discussed. Boarding may be the only way of living within limited means if the woman in the case does not know how to run the house in an economical manner. But if she does not, where and how is she going to learn? It is a somewhat dreadful thing to have to answer “unprepared” when the lessons of life are called, but if you are the right kind of a woman you will not remain in that condition long. But the paving of $22.50 for rent is a seeming extrava- gance and cannot be managed on the present income. And the $35 and roomers should not enter into the calcula- tions under the conditions of income. Because it did it is necessary to show where the trouble lies in such a proposi- tion, for it looks reasonable on the face of it. .$420 a year 780 a year $35 a month means 50% rent, « The amount earned is........... These amounts have been figured by one who has tried the keeping of roomers under similar conditions.* | RO PO Ee OT a $780 Income from roomers, at $12 per montheach. 288 $1068 Rent at $45 per month. ....0....00cccecess $420 Coal at $8 per ton, ten tons............... 80 Gas at 80c. per M "for lighting, cooking, etc. 48 I atu: 0195 ara,-carecelu as o's wi aia'sare ow aah civ 12 FOO a6 $5 pet Weel. 6 oc. co ccccceaccesees 260 $820 Leaving margin for clothes and higher life.. $248 And you cannot be sure of your roomers. The Question of Rent |B, =T us now return to that flat at $22.50 per month. In our ideal budget these divisions were made: food, $351; rent, $117; clothes, $78; operating expenses, $78; and higher life, $156. This requires analysis first of all to see how nearly possible it may be. One hundred and seventeen dollars allowed for rent means but $9.75 a month. There are very few places in the United States to-day where that amount will provide an adequate home for the people who read The Bazar. It is not enough. It may be in the ideal budget under ideal conditions, but it is not in a prac- tical one meeting existing living conditions. On the other hand, $22.50 is too much on the salary being earned. Yes, we all know that the expected raise in salary is coming soon, but it is not here, and it is to-day, not to-morrow, that has to be met. To-day is the day to be reckoned with and to be so lived that to-morrow may not be feared. If you learn to live adequately and well on the $15 a week, the coming $20 will mean more saving and better living, more happiness, in fact. But if you arrange life to-day on the $20 of to-morrow you will probably always be in debt, always a little behindhand, and never be able to realize your smallest air castle. Now what can be done if you are to go to housekeeping on the weekly income of $15? What kind of life can we buy with this amount? Let us try this division. MR ta coed a Grohe wae aaraale heme ae 35% or $273 MNS Sow bcs. Su.cee tenspeleenern as 25% or 195 2 AR eee Tere reer 15% or 117 Operating expenses............... 1§%or 117 es ee 100% or $780 The rental should be first considered, and as we have been considering that of a house as against this amount for a flat, certain items should be taken into account. The amount paid for a flat probably includes heat and hot-water supply and involves no outlay of certain kinds in service. When snow falls in the winter the flat-dweller worries not about his unshoveled sidewalk, for the janitor must care for that. When sun and rain have grown green grass the flat-dweller may be deprived of wandering about his own few feet of lawn, but he is also relieved of the necessity of keeping that lawn in condition. Thirty-five dollars for a house and the same amount paid for a flat would mean a balance in favor of the latter. The actual rental in accordance with the budget for a small flat, perhaps three rooms and a bath, has been given as $16.25 monthly. But this does not include car fare, an item always to be taken into account, for low rentals are not to be found where land values are highest. Even at the price of $16.25 the chance of getting a heated flat with a hot- water supply may be questioned. So it would seem better to pay such a price as might ificlude these items, this being a saving of money in the long run. So we will arbitrarily take the sum of $18 a month for the necessary rental. Car fare will be at least $45, or an average of 15 cents a day for three hundred days of the year, this amounting to $3.75 per month. But out of what division can we subtract this car fare? We have families. wishes to make a request. letters give. is, but the actual demands upon it. amount of income, the size of the family and its demands. where and how are they being educated? occasional helpers, or none? some prices of your market. Johnson, Harper's Bazar, New York City. For in the economy of spending two things | = the Budget Plan Meets Your Needs MAY letters are coming in from all directions containing the living problems of all kinds of The Bazar is glad of the frankness, the honesty, the purpose in them. In order that the Bazar and Miss Johnson may be of practical assist- ance—and that is what is needed and desired—-we must have more information than many of these No one can proportion another’s income without knowing not only what that income That we may help you, will you please give in writing to us the What are the ages of the children and Have you servants, or is the housework done by you with If servants, then what wages? What rent or taxes do you pay? What are the fixed demands upon you which one cannot or should not touch? Please include, also, In writing The Bazar all facts must be stated fully if you are to be Please be sure to inclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope, and write to Helen Louise Every letter will be answered as promptly as possible, — already raised the rent to $216 in place of the $195 allowed in the budget. Here is a monthly apportionment of ex- And it penses, explanation of which follows. At $15 a week, $780 yearly is earned, or each month... $65 Food we may apportion at $5 a week, or per month.. $21.60 Rent per month......... 18 This leaves but $360 for all operating expenses—food, clothes, and higher life. In the ideal budget $117 was allowed for rent, so there is a deficit of $303 if the above amount of $420 a year is to be paid. How many steady roomers must one have to make up this $303, or the difference between $420 and $117 a year? Here is the proposition and reasoning. In Milwaukee in a neighborhood where $35 a month is paid for rent for a house not more than $12 a month can be charged for a room, or, at the most, $3 a week. A house accommodating a man and his wife and two roomers paying such a price means one of at least eight rooms and a bath. This has to be heated, and the amount of coal required for this will depend, of course, upon such factors as the arrangement of the house, the kind of furnace, and the amount of heat needed. Light means an additional cost, and there is the laundry to consider, the heating of water and irons, and the use of materials, even if one does the work herself. Car fare per month........ 3.75 Clothes per month ....... 9.75 Operating expenses per mo. 4.25 ge eae .50 3.85 Which leaves a margin of $1.15 each month for an emergency. Determining the Essentials No let us see how we arranged this. Heating comes in the rental. Usually under operating expenses are found the items of heat, light, fuel for cooking, service, laundry, telephone, etc. Heat is now being furnished. No service should be required, and the laundry nierely means the laundry supplies. So that on this basis, omitting such luxuries as the telephone, it would seem an easy thing to extract the car fare from this allowance. The amount allowed in the original budget for operating expenses was $117, or $9.75 per month, but we have now taken the car fare and the extra amount needed for our $18 rent from that division, leaving for operating expenses $4.25 per month, or $51 a year. With this we have to pay for the gas for lighting and cooking, and the laundry and such supplies. (Continued next month)

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onth,. food, $78; all to and nth. yhere 20ple 1 the ITac- ther Yes, ning that with . a , the nore | the lebt, your Ding buy Spectal Pages Garden /Vumber 7 YW SNHE longing for an old-fashioned garden comes to all flower-lovers some time in their lives, and to many it seems one of the impossible things, as though it were impossible now to reproduce the conditions which we knew in the gardens of our mothers or grandmothers. Happily, this is not the case. The conditions under which an ‘‘old-fashioned”’ garden can be made are just the same to-day as they were when our grandmothers made theirs. The old-fashioned garden of years gone by was an evolu- tion; but to-day the same effects can be produced ‘‘ready- made,” as it were. Our grandmothers started their gardens in a small way, using a few of the commoner flowers and shrubs, and gradually adding to them as opportunity per- mitted. We, to-day, can make the same kind of a garden in two seasons which will be finer in all respects, if we ob- erve a few simple but necessary rules. Numerous attempts to make an old-fashioned garden are failures from lack of observance of the first rule: Avoid over- crowding for the first few years! One who has a recollection of a garden which she loved as a girl is prone to try to make it, from the first, as her recollection recalls the old garden as it was after forty or fifty years of culture! This is fatal, for, while the anticipated. effects will be present for several years, after that time they will be lost in the overcrowding he garden. Let us illustrate this minutely, as it is very important. The garden which you knew in childhood appeared to be crowded to the limit, did it not? But when you knew them the plants in it had been growing for many years, until this crowded appearance was finally reached. This is what we aim at—in the right way. If that same old garden were suddenly cleared out, and all the old plants removed, and their places taken by the same kinds of the same size such as you will have to use in making a new garden, how bare it would look! Instead of the plants being ‘‘cheek by jowl,”’ they would be several feet apart, and the garden would have an aitenuated look. It would take years to restore that gar- den’s lost beauty. When you come to make your new old-fashioned garden, there are two methods which can be followed with success: You can plant things well apart with a view to its future ex- tension, and bear with the attenuated look for three or four years. This is the cheapest and perhaps the best way, as it gives one the chance to love every individual flower as one tends and trains it into mature size and beauty. The other is: When it is desirable or necessary to have full effects from the beginning, the garden should be first planted, or laid out for planting (always make a plan. of a new garden), as above. Then set out twice the number of plants of each kind that you want to have finally. Buy these in large size. One of these plants will probably need to be removed at the end of the third season. This is a more expensive method, but it is the best when an immediate effect is required. Another rule which must be lived up to in the making of an old-fashioned garden is that the soil must be rich. Have you ever thought of the limitless care which your grand- mother gave to the enrichment of the soil of her garden? Nothing in the way of fertilizers was too good for her gar- den, and, with the passage of the years, the soil became rich in all the essentials of plant food, nitrogen, potash, and phos- phate. By the time you knew it as a child it was so good that all the plants in it were in that condition known by gardeners as “‘lush.’”” To at once attain the effect of the old-fashioned garden it will be necessary to make a soil similar to that of the old-time garden of many years of culture; but this is possible of attainment. The constant addition of fertilizers and manures, and the almost universal growing in the old gardens of perennial flowers, which do not annually remove a lot of plant food or humus from the soil, as do annuals, puts the soil in the finest possible tilth. As a base for a soil for the new old-fashioned garden, use any good loam, limestone loam preferred. To this add the same bulk of leaf mold, or chopped sods from an old clover field. To this mixture add one-third its bulk of well- rotted horse manure. This forms the base. Put in, also, before using, one quart of bone meal to each bushel of soil, a pint of powdered lime and a quart of a good phosphate fertilizer, and mix well. This will make a soil like your grandmother’s was after forty years of loving care. The garden for the old-fashioned flowers should be well drained. If not naturally so, sink porous tiles where needed to produce the result. The soil should be filled deep in the beds, for which purpose it is best to remove a portion of the sub-soil by trenching it out. There is not an old-fashioned flower popular in. days of old which cannot be had to-day, and in most cases in greatly improved varieties. Our grandmother used the smali in- significant forms of some of our beautiful modern types, because they were the best they had. The high-bred Allegheny hollyhock is none the less old-fashioned because it is a hundred times more beautiful than the old common ones, and the Charles X. lilac will fit the old-fashioned garden just as well as the old Vulgaris alba. ‘There are some flowers which have remained almost stationary during the past forty years; but they are few, and you will be wise to use the same flowers your ancestors did, but finer varieties of them. There is not room to name the thousand or more flowers suitable for the old-fashioned garden, but merely the most popular ones. All will love the following: larkspur, vio- lets, anemone, aquilegia, hepatica, iris, lilies, trillium, arabis, astilbe, bellis, convallaria, dicentra, iberis, myosotis, peony, phlox, primula, vinca, achillea, aster, campanula, clematis, coreopsis, dianthus, digitalis, helenium, papaver, pyrethrum, spirea, althza, gaillardia, helianthus, hemerocalis, lavender, pentstemon, and stokesia. There should be a shrubbery border of some kind in every old-fashioned garden, containing, among others: lilac, deutzia, hibiscus, lonicera, syringa Persica, viburnum. crategus, Philadelphus, azalea mollis, berberis, and spirea.

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ahead to the finished effect The Importance ITH what impatience do we watch for the signs of spring, those of us who for the first time are to have a garden of our own making! And with what pleasure do we enter on the work now that those signs are apparent and the time of our hopes and fears draws near! There is much to be done, no matter how small the garden plot may be which, for the first time, we are to open up to the fructifying effects of the sun, rain, and air, and the results will be in exact proportion to the knowledge with which we do the work. There is nothing mystical in the making of anew garden; the rules are simple, but they are inexorable if the full measure of possible success is to be attained. Then let your work be thorough and it will not need to be repeated or doctored, while the day of blossoming will bring satisfaction. Take a survey of that new garden of yours, you who have a new venture on hand, also you who for the first time are to make over an old one. There is little difference in the treatment, unless the old garden has been well made at the first, which I am inclined to doubt; few are. The basis of good gardening, as far as the making of the garden is con- cerned, is good soil and good drainage. With these as your starting - point you are sure to arrive at the end of the season with a garden which meets your hopes. The soil is likely to be any one of three general classes— limestone loam, sandy loam, or shaly-slaty loam. No one of these scils, just as you find it, is a good one for a garden. Each lacks ingredients which are found in the others and which are necessary for fertility. The first lacks nitrogen and perhaps is deficient in phosphate; the second is liable to be acid (sour), while there is no telling, short of an analysis, what one will find in a shaly-slaty loam. If your garden soil is a limestone loam it should have an addition of sand to lighten it and well-rotted manure to give it the needed humus; while the sandy loam needs a dusting of lime after it has been dug, and one of bone meal, which, with the same amount of manure as for the other, will put it in good tilth and make it fertile in due time. A Moet UT it matters not how fertile the soil may be naturally; if it be not well drained your efforts are doomed to failure unless you grow only such plants and flowers as are attracted to damp, moist situations. More gardens are spoiled by reason of lack of proper drainage than from all other causes combined. It is hard to make people realize this. Many scoff at it, yet it is true, unfortunately, of some gardens which otherwise would be among the best. The matter of drainage is not a difficult one to manage. It requires nothing elaborate. If there be depressions or hollows in the general curvature of the soil body you may count on it that the water will stand in the subsoil in such places unless Of this fact you can assure yourself by an examination. If it be of a loose, sandy, or rocky nature you are safe in presuming that it will drain; but if it be tight, dry, or sticky clay, or that kind of earth known as “hard-pan,” it should be drained by laying porous hollow tiles in the subsoil two feet from the top of the general level, following the curvature of the Important Point this be very loose and friable. Getting Started Right By Samuel Armstrong Hamilton soil. together one Where there are a succession of these hollows close line of tiles can be laid connecting them, which is better than a lot of independent small lines. The theory governing the drainage of soil is that the earth must not be permitted to have more water to take When the soil care of than will be held by capillary action. Preparing plants in the greenhouse O is kept soaked with water it cuts off the air-supply, kills th« beneficial soil bacteria, and causes the soil to become sour from lack of nitrogen and oxygen. Simple, is it not? No matter what kind of soil you have it must be aerated, which is the approved method of adding the necessary nitro- gen. This is the first thing to be done after you have worked out the problem of the drainage. Just as soon as the soil can be worked have it dug and thrown into ridges with a spreading motion of the spade to allow every particle of soil to have access to the air. Allow these ridges to lie, unless you have the time and assistance to ridge them again, until time to do the planting, when the whole plot can be worked over with the hoe and rake and brought to the proper grarle. One Cheap Fertilizer HE best and cheapest nitrogen is that which is taken from the air by the soil, and the soil has the faculty of doing this if it be given the chance, by being broken up fine, as described above. It is cheaper and better than buying nitrogen in the form of nitrates, which are expensive. There are many kinds of manures which can be used for the garden, and you will be guided very largely by the kind most available for you; but, when possible, get a well-rotted horse manure. That which has lain in the heap over win- ter will be best. It will be well filled with the beneficent bacteria with which you must impregnate your soil if you are to get results. Without these bacteria there is n fertility, and they can exist only in humus (the vegetabl: matter in the soil) and the best humus is the manure named above. The manner of the application of the manure varies. When it is possible to do so spread it over the soil in the fall and allow it to leach out during the winter. Then dig the residue in when trenching the soil. Lacking this, as will be the case of those making a new garden, spread it on as soon as possible in the spring so that it can lie several weeks before trenching. Putting the manure in the furrow when digging the garden beds is as bad as spreading a six-inch coating over the soil and digging it in, as in both cases most of it gets dug to the bottom, out of the reach of the young plants. But dug in when trenching, it is mixed with the soil through and through and becomes available to all the roots of all the plants. When grading the garden. beds for planting keep the general level, but avoid any steep grades. These caus¢ washing away of the top soil. If necessary in order to avoid this make the bed in terrace forms to maintain the proper level. When “working” the soil in grading go over it first with the hoe and then “chop”’ it hard and deep with the rake, and last level it, raking off into the end furrow all the small clods so that the top will be as fine as sand. The working and leveling should be done just as fast as it is needed for planting. It is best to plant in newly made soil, so that it will pack evenly, without “‘caking’’ after being planted. Soil should never be handled when wet; it should be just so moist that when a handful is squeezed together it will fall apart when released. *)

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The importance of rows in cultivation A well-arranged back-yard garden Your Kitchen Garden By Samuel Armstrong Hamilton HE liking for choice fresh vegetables is universal, and in many cases it is impossible to obtain them unless they be home grown. During the winter months we are compelled, if we do not live out of tin cans, to pay the high prices demanded for fresh vege- tables from Texas and the South Atlantic coast states. But if we have the space to have a little garden of our own, we can have them fresh daily from early summer until the frosts stops all garden operations. As most of the home gardens in small towns and the suburbs of cities are small, in order to insure a supply of fresh vegetables the entire season, it. will be necessary to practise the art of ‘‘successional” gardening. This is not more difficult than “straight” gardening, after one acquires a knowledge of the proper successions, which I will give further on in this article. As in all other gardening, success in the kitchen garden depends on good drainage and good soil. The latter is more easily accomplished than the former. If the soil does not drain well, if the garden be level or has depressions, it will , be best to sink porous, hollow tiles where needed to carry off surplus water, as vegetables will not do well in. a. water- soaked soil. Tiles, sunk sixteen feet apart and two feet deep, will answer the purpose. As in successional gardening we require a quick or ‘‘ warm”’ soil, it must be rich, loose, and friable, and at least a foot in depth for best results. As soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, which in most localities will be shortly after this appears in print, go over the garden and trench the soil, Throw it aside with a spreading motion of the spade, so that every particle of it will have access to the air. This will aerate the soil and add the needed quantity of nitrogen. When ready to plant, later on, it should be thrown back the other way, which will give it a second aeration. This will obviate buying expensive nitrogen in the form of nitrates. If the soil be sandy loam, or if it be acid or ‘‘sour,’’ it should have a top dressing of pulverized lime, just enough to whiten the surface. This is put on when the beds are roughly formed from the trenched soil, and before raking toa grade. At this time add also a dusting of bone meal, which will give the needed phosphate. When giving the second trenching, work into six inches’ depth well-rotted horse manure through the soil. This is better than digging it all down to the bottom of a furrow, where it is out of reach of most of the roots. When planting-time arrives level the soil with the rake and hoe, apply the lime and bone-meal, as explained above, Early Plantings and then work level to a regular grade into beds and bor- ders of such size as will be convenient in your particular garden. The grading should be so done that the surface water will run off (without ‘‘washing”’ the soil) into the paths, and from them to some prepared outlet. With this article are printed two successions, one early and one late, of a garden which will supply six people with vege- tables during the summer, and quite a lot for storing for — F- i Poe Kinpb KinpD PLANTED Succession PLANTED “Rows | | Melons | Parsley April 1 To remain all season 1 | Corn, sweet, early Parsnip a is ar ae 1 | Lima beans ; Salsify — : 7 a - | Cucumbers — Saat oe te : és DBs 1 | Beets, late en 1 Turnips Onion 5 Geter “« Late celery in July 4 String beans Early potatoes . . . aS ms 2 Peas Beets ‘* Brussels sprouts July 1 2 Celery early ae a eee «Cabbage (late) sary Eggplant es Turnips, early . . “ % we... Pepper... Peas,dwarf. . . . “Cauliflower nen | Tomatoes: .. . | Peas, tall ‘** Cabbage (late) oe String beans | early “ Use plants, cabbage (late) ‘“ 2 re The season is supposed to be that of the latitude The winter. of New York, from which you can reckon for yours. rows are twenty feet long. The early plantings should be protected when needed. We often have frosts after April which will kill tender plants just coming through the soil. Great care should be used when planting the small seeds of such plants as radish, lettuce, pepper, and others. Some people plant them as deep as though they were as large as potatoes. The rule is to cover them only their depth, which in the case of the very fine ones can be done best by sowing them on top of the soil, after it has been made very fine, and pressing down with a board. In addition to the plantings as outlined above, there should be small beds laid off for planting with lettuce, which can be used as soon as large enough as “‘cut’’ lettuce, and when the third leaf has formed set plants out between the other vegetables for head lettuce, as well as along the edges of the beds and borders. The same should be done in the case of the earliest radishes, after which, every time the garden is thoroughly worked, sow and rake in some early radish seeds, and as they grow faster than most weeds, by the time the beds will need weeding the radishes will be ready for pulling. Excepting in the small space in which lettuce and radishes will be grown as above, it will pay to give the garden clean culture. This can best be done by using one of the small wheel cultivators, unless the garden be very tiny. One of these will prevent many a backache; and the work is more uniform and effective than with a hand hoe. They are very inexpensive, and will last a lifetime. The function of cul- tivation of growing crops is to conserve moisture in the soil, and not, as was formerly the belief, to keep the soil loose about the plants, as that is not necessary. To conserve the moisture, after each rain, go over the garden as soon as the soil is in condition to be worked, with the teeth of the hoe set shallow (merely enough to cut off the top crust), and break it fine, which forms a ‘‘dust-mulch”’ on top of the soil, and breaks the continuity of capillary action, and the moisture cannot get to the surface and evaporate. In the successional garden one must watch the growing crops for the proper time to plant the second crops. While the dates given in the table are approximately correct, variance of seasons may make them come later. In that case set the second crop beside the first one at the right time, and allow both to stand side by side until the first one is ready to pick. Late Plantings PLANTED SUCCESSION PLANTED ga After May 1_ All season + ws ‘a ‘6 4 “ ss Winter radish 2 “ ue All season 2 ‘* May 7 Carrots, late Aug.1 2 “ x Winter beets " 2 “May 1 Ruta-baga 2 | ** May 10 Late peas ” 2 | se ’ Late potatoes ee 3 “June 1~ All summer 1 33 7 om 1 aE = a 4 “ June15 Endive 2 4 * Winter celery 3

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Making d Rose Garden The Best Varieties and Their Treatment HERE was a time—in the olden days—when there were few varieties of roses and but the three families, and it was the custom to plant the roses indiscriminately about the garden, just as one’s fancy dictated. But to-day with the large number of families and the innumerable varieties we have reached the place where we make whole gardens of this one flower. This is the best way when there is sufficient room so to do, as they are best appreciated when one family or variety comes with others. The principal rose families are the following: Tea roses, Hybrid Tea, Bourbon China, Polyantha, Tea-scented Polyantha, Climbing Tea, Climbing Hybrid Tea, Hybrid Perpetual, Hybrid Rugosa, Moss, Hardy Climber, Wichu- raiana, Hybrid Wichuraiana, Hybrid Sweetbriers, and the real wild rose. From this list of families, each of which is divided into thousands of varieties, we can make a selection of any reasonable number for almost any purpose to which it is possible to put a growing rose. Some of these families have recognized subdivisions, such as the Hybrid Climbers, in which the Rambler subfamily holds a distinctive position. mum of expense and labor. Since good drainage is the first principle in all modern gardening, it can be best obtained and maintained when the roses are grown by themselves in soil, beds, and borders especially prepared for them. It enables us to plant our roses in borders which are trenched and underdrained, and in beds which have had the same treatment, and when the soil needs renewing we merely turn it out of the trenches and put in some which has been specially prepared for the rose. HE trenches for the beds and borders are made by excavating to a depth of not less than eighteen inches, keeping the good soil and throwing aside the subsoil. The bottom of the trench should be graded uniformly level, sloping down toward one end, where an outlet may be made Once the Luxury of the Specialist, now the Joy of the Amateur insist that hardy perpetual roses be shipped to you dormant, and not with inch-long buds, all of which will drop off and delay the budding and blooming. The stalks should be straight and be root-budded or grafted, while the tender roses are best on their own roots. Roses are used in many forms for beautifying the house and garden. They are grown on pillars, for which there are special varieties; in tall hedges, for which the Rugosa roses and the English Sweetbriers are the best; on porches, for which use any of the Prairie Belle family or any of the tall Ramblers; to cover arches and pergolas, for which there are numerous fine climbers to suit any climate from the tender Marechal Neil for the extreme south to the Crimson Rambler, which will stand great cold. The Baby Ramblers make exquisite hedges and groups, as they bloom from June until the frost kills them, being the best example of the long-desired ‘‘ever-blooming”’ Rose hedges can be trimmed into shapes as easily as the common privet and can be planted in solid colors or varie- gated for bizarre effects. The hardy perennial roses are mostly planted in beds and borders two feet apart, and the rose. An elaborate, formal arrangement r-—~— In the Hybrid Perpetual family will be found the distinctive Baby Ramblers, the finest of all hedge roses where low effects are desired. Rose-growing among amateurs in this country is virtually in itsinfancy. In Europe every one who has a garden grows quantities of roses, and this is especially true of the south of England, where are to be seen vistas of miles of rose hedges, and in most cases when grown in gardens they are gardens filled with roses alone. HE rose is an old flower. It has existed in some form as long as known civilization. But the rose of ancient song and story was in most cases the rose which we now call the Sweetbrier. This is a single flower, excepting in Persia, where they have had for centuries one type of a semi-double rose which is very fragrant and from which the famed attar- of-roses is made. Such flowers as the modern Frau Karl Druschki, Killarney, and William R. Smith were never seen or conceived of by our ancient rose-lovers. One of the greatest advantages of growing roses in a garden by themselves is that they can have the specialized treatment which the modern rose demands, with the mini- if needed. In the bottom put four inches of drainage, which may consist of any mineral detritus, such as broken stones, bricks, or the coarser cinders from the furnace. On this put the soil, which should be especially rich in humus, or vege- table matter. This humus may be put in a soil, in which it is deficient, in the form of well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or chopped sods. Especially good are sods from a field in which clover has been growing within two years, as this will be filled with a mass of fibrous roots and the beneficent soil bacteria so necessary to fertility. To make a new soil from a base you can use any good garden loam, one third; sods, one third; and well-rotted manure, one third. Cow manure is the best for roses, but for few other flowers. This should be well mixed together, and to one bushel of the mixture add one quart of bone meal and one pint of powdered lime. Mix again, and if the soil base be a stiff limestone loam add sufficient sand to make it friable. Pile this soil mixture under cover until ready to be used. Roses for spring planting should be ordered now, keeping in mind that the early orders get the best stock. The plantsman will know from your latitude the proper time to ship them if you do not know it yourself. Nothing is to be gained by planting the tea and ever-blooming summer roses too early, as a back-set from a late frost will do them con- siderable harm and may kill them. The hardy roses should be set out as soon as the soil can be worked, and you should tender summer blooming ones, being more slender, a foot apart. When the hardy roses come, if they have not been pruned this must be carefully done. As the blooms of this season come only on the wood grown this spring, cutting them back to three eyes or buds on each stem will give more and finer roses. The Rambler roses bloom on last year’s wood, on which account they must be pruned, any desired amount, just after they have ceased to bloom. The tender roses should be cut back slightly in midsummer. The soil should be given a dusting of bone meal and kept well worked, and they will bloom with renewed vigor. HE tender roses, of course, are taken indoors in the win- ter, while the hardy ones are protected outdoors as much as may be needed. Asa rule, roses get more protection than 1s good for them. Merely wrap them loosely in building-paper so that snow and ice will not freeze on them. Do not wrap them tightly with straw or put manure about them, but hill them up so as to turn away any excess of surface water. Water your roses freely during the growing season. ”)

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nant, f and d be onder louse e are roses , for > tall are nder nson IS, aS . the STONE wall that is not beautiful is not living up to its possibilities. It is Nature’s perfect background for vines and flowers, a fact that she appreciated long ago. With a wicked smile she has draped it, far too often, with that enemy of mankind, the poison ivy, but with a more kindly intention she has just as fre- quently made it beautiful with masses of clematis and woodbine. Neat and tidy walls, with stones fitted care- fully into place, must be endured if they can- not be cured; but the ideal wall is made of unevenly shaped stones put together firmly but roughly with many crevices and excres- cences. Such a wall at once becomes the natural home for all sorts of beautiful growing things. ; The natural garden, in which the methods of Na- ture are followed and her beginning developed and improved by art rather than revolutionized by it, is now the garden most to be desired. Such a garden the wall garden easily becomes. It is not the place for delicate vines and climbers that require rich earth, fostering care, and pro- tection. It is, rather, the ideal place for hardy ram- blers that love hot sun- shine, climb naturally with- out assistance, and are capable of fighting their own battles with wind, weather, and equally hardy competitors for place. It is the part of art and wisdom, however, to en- courage their growth by enriching the earth at the base of the wall and in its many . crevices. It may even be well to increase the amount of rich loam in the crevices. We can obtain from the woods many vines that will take kindly to wall-climbing. Woodbine we all know is hardy and easily grown. It is one of the most graceful vines that we have, and turns a wonderful shade of red in the | autumn—a red that contrasts most artistically | with a gray-stone background. | Then we have the “‘virgin’s bower”—wild clematis—which will cover a wall first with a mass of dainty, white, star-shaped flowers, and then with feather-green seed pods, turning in | the late autumn to masses of white down. With the clematis there should be several roots of bitter-sweet for the sake of its clusters of gay red berries that burst so jauntily out of their faded yellow jackets in the fall. Sweet-briar roses are particularly pretty growing with the clematis. Their pink blossoms come too early to clash with the red bitter-sweet berries, so that they may be planted on the same wall. The common wild rose is even more beautiful than the sweet-briar, and while not strictly a climber, may easily be made to grow up against the wall, where its | beautiful pink blossoms will combine agreeably with the delicate clematis leaves. The wild grape is a hardy climber of very rapid growth; so rapid, indeed, that it is apt to force com- petitors out of the race and keep the field to itself. It is necessary to cut it back frequently if others are to have a chance. A dainty little wild vine appropriate for planting in the wall crevices is the partridge vine, with its evergreen leaves and bright- red berries. Little rock ferns will grow with this vine in the crevices if the | Wall is in the shade. Among the cultivated vines the most promising candidate for our wall garden is the honeysuckle; either the white with its corolla changing ever to a luscious yellow, or the dainty pink, dearer even than the white to the hearts of its hum- ming-bird visitors. Either vine grows both rapidly and luxuriantly, so that it will quickly cover a wall with its mass of green foliage and dainty blossoms. It has the added beauty and charm of filling the evening air with a delicious evanescent fragrance. The cultivated clematis, while similar to the wild, has larger blossoms. Its growth is vigor- ous, so that it is suitable for wall culture. The large purple clematis would also find a most effective background in, the kindly gray . Suggestions for Wall and Rock Gardens By Jane Calhoun stone; a most agreeable relief from the red brick walls that so frequently kill its beauty. Wistaria will make a beautiful wall drapery if its roots are kept very wet. The trailing wichuriana rose, with its dark, polished leaves, and delicate pink or white blossoms, will make the wall a mass of loveli- ness in July. The orange-red trumpet creeper, with its clusters of deep orange-color blossoms, may be made to cover a wall with very little diffi- culty, and will be unusually effective. Unfortunately it is necessary to wait for results from any of these perennial vines, although the waiting is well worth while; it is a satisfaction to get immediate results from some of the annuals. Among these the most rewarding are the The ideal wall is made of unevenly shaped stones wild cucumber, morning glory, and climbing nasturtium. The brilliant blossoms of the nasturtium, frequently irritatingly inhar- monious in the garden in spite of their beauty, are peculiarly effective at a little distance from the house against the gray of the stone and the green of the grass and other vines. More- over, they are extremely easy to grow, and love to climb up over the stones. Columbines, both wild and cultivated, take naturally to the rocks. Consequently, if the pockets of rich loom between the stones are deep enough, they may be induced to add their delicate, graceful beauty to the wall garden They are well worth a little extra care. Such a wall becomes the home for beautiful growing things Among the rock-loving creepers are fumitory, a biennial with small pink blossoms (a lover of shade), creeping phlox of many colors, starry saxifrage, moss pink in many new colors, rock- cress with dainty white blossoms, blue lead- wort, and canary-bird vine. This last, as one can easily guess, is yellow. It loves het, dry places, and will make a wall a mass of glowing color. In the midst of it a few clumps of California poppies will add a deeper note of color. The commomplace little portulaca of many hues, while disastrous from the standpoint of color harmony when allowed to run wild in the garden, will make the crevices of a wall gay with color. It requires very little water, and loves the sun, growing cheerfully and per- | sistently where other flowers find life very discouraging. A one-faced terrace wall may be made very beautiful by planting drooping shrubs along the top of it. Rosa wichuriana, for instance, will easily trail down to within a foot or two of the ground, covering the wall with its rich, dark foliage and blossoms. Rosa lucida and the Scotch briars have the same fascinating habit, when properly placed. Forsythia suspensa, the common barberry, Jerusalem sage and Pyrus japonicus also droop grace- fully when encouraged. Iberis, cerastium, gypsophilum, and cam- panula all cover a sunny wall with mats of foliage and bloom. Arabis, cytopteris, ferns, anemones, and the saxifrages thrive better on a shady wall. a wonderful background for low shrubs or an old- fashioned border. Holly- hocks, foxgloves, and del- phiniums are doubly effec- tive against the soft gray of the stone and the green of the vines, while snap- dragons and campanulas will even grow in the crevices of the wall itself. If the delicate plants are to grow well, the crevices should be made to slant in and down in such a way that the rain will easily reach the roots without washing away the soil. This is not always easy. Sometimes it is necessary to surround the roots with small protecting stones. They must be placed very carefully, so that they will neither injure the roots nor keep out the rain. From the stone wall to the rock garden is a short and natural step; a far shorter step than that from the artificial old-fashioned “‘rockery” to the natural rock garden of to- day. There is nothing worse than artificial rockework. The Japanese alone seem to be able to make it effective. But let no one now, in the day of the natural garden, lament the possession of out-cropping rocks and boulders on his land. To the mind of the landscape gardener they are full of un- guessed possibilities. Under his skilled touch they will become the home of numberless rock- loving plants, difficult to cultivate under any other conditions. Between them and in their crevices there will soon be masses of rich bloom, wonderfully set off by the stretches of gray rock. An exposed rocky hillside has not the ad- vantages of one protec- ted from wind and sun by kindly trees and shrubs; gardener hastens to erect his natural screen. Under his directions trees are planted to protect and not shade over-much, while at beauty and interest to the bare hillside. The earth is changed and enriched. Nature is assisted in every way to do her best. In additicn to the vines and creepers suggested for Japanese anemones, blue- bells, spring Adonis, candy- tuft, edelweiss, evening primroses, English prim- roses, mother - of - thyme, asters, stone-crop, etc. Great care must be taken to keep the rock garden absolutely natural and wild. The slightest note of arti- ficiality or over - cultiva- tion is absolutely out of place. If ther: is a brook run- ning between the rocks, or springs concealed beneath them, making the earth damp, ideal conditions exist and the list of flowers capable of cultivation there is in- creased tremendously. Iris is beautiful grow- ing among the rocks. In the spring daffodils and narcissi are fascinating, nodding their bright, graceful heads. Violets and ferns find a natural home there. So many of the vines and flowers for the wall and rock gardens may be brought from wood and field. Moreover, when once planted, if it has been properly done, they will almost take care of themselves, so that while there is considerable agreeable labor at the be- ginning, it need not be repeated from year to year, as in the formal garden. A stone wall, gracefully | draped with vines, makes but the capable landscape | the same time they add | the stone wall, one may | grow in the rock garden | Men of Tomorrow Many a boy, started off with a sorry fund of health, has been built into a mental and phy- sical ‘‘ husky ”’ by help- ful environment and pro- perly selected food. No one can build a sturdy, time-resisting wall with poor materials. No one can build a strong, manly boy on flimsy food. The boy is really more important than the wall! Ever think of that? Yet you may be very particular when you in- spect the materials you are to put into your house walls. But how about the boy —is his building material being considered? Mind and body must be properly trained to make the Master Man. A true Brain and Body food is Grape-Nuts It possesses those vital elements required by Na- ture for building up strong young bodies and active brains. “‘There’s a Reason’’ Postum Cereal Company, Ltd. Battle Creek, Mich., U.S.A. Canadian Postum Cereal Co., Ltd. Windsor, Ontario, Canada.

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Che Dainty Nint Covered Just ask your doctor what he thinks of Chic- Doctors, dentists and trained nurses use and recommend Chiclets for their patients’ use and use them them- selves in the sick-room, the office or home. quisite peppermint, the true makes Chiclets the refinement of chewing gum lets. mint, hiclets REALLY DELIGHTFUL Cand Conted Chewing Gum That ex- for people of refinement. Look for the Bird Cards in the packages. You can secure a beautiful Bird Album free. For Sale at all the Better Sort of Stores 5c. the Ounce and in 5c., 10c. and 25c. Packets SEN- Metropolitan Tower New , SEN CHICLET COMPANY York 2. Garden Boosters 2 Delivery Paid Ties are regular little hot houses. Just the thing t tart early p ees and boost your flowers or veg - bles a week rlier. Set the Rhuba i Start Melo then. Z press, bolted tog with cast iron corner pieces. Gro for glass to slid . Size 11144x13 inche Shipped knocked down. va Send Price $2.00 for 2, Parcel Post Paid. All bolt uded, but not the gla Two P's Book It er sized frame a luable garden boosting |! able ge t g@ help Lord & Sesuheon Co. SALES OFFICES aw Y KK I TON PHILADEL! es Bldg Tres t Bldg. Frank I CHICAG ROCHESTER ( te Bldg FACTORIES rvington, N. Y Des Plaines, Il HIA k Bldg. DO YOU WANT TO Don't waste voice, bring to your door the t masters since Farinelli, in a way that is easily understood, that will give you complete control and that will make you a finished laws of vocal ex- 1ed in any other way. Write today for our valuable free prospectus, showing the importance of getting started right. of your voice, singe pression thatisnot tobe gair time, money, through wrong methods of té r with a knowledge of the LEARN TO “SING 7] and perhaps your aching achings of the greatest LAWTON INSTITUTE OF VOICE CULTURE 303 Alexander Street Rochester, N.Y. We Greider’s Fine Catalogue and calendar of pure-bred poultry for 1913, _— many pages of poultry facts, different breeds in natural colors. 70 varieties illustrated and described. bators and brooders, low hatching. 10c for this onan 3B. H. Toca- price of stock and eggs f A perfect guid de to all poultry talowee Bend, BEIDER, Box 134, Rheoms, Pa. Garden By Martha Cutler ee Oo plan a garden, to plant it, to work in it, and then not to live in it and enjoy its beauty, is a crime. To walk there is a short- lived pleasure. To sit there in a state of dreamy relaxation and absorb the glory of its masses of color and the charm of its ever-shifting lights is to fully appreciate it. But to get out of it the perfect pleas- ure from day to day that is a fitting reward for the labor put into it, one should read there, sew there, entertain there, eat there —in other words, live there. That means that there must be comfort- able chairs and convenient tables cunning- ly placed where the most charming views are to be obtained, at the ends of vistas, near the sun-dial or fountain, in a tempting bit of shade, etc. If some sweet-smelling flowers are cleverly placed near by they will add to the charm of the spot for every one. To select just the right pieces of furni- | ture for a garden, and to place them where | they will not only give comfort, but add to the beauty of the garden rather than detract from it, requires both skill and knowledge. All garden furniture is not appropriate for all gardens. We used to have no choice. Iron benches, tables, and stools, varying only in the degree | of their ugliness and discomfort, constituted the selection. Now we have a wide choice both of materials and of styles, beginning with the rustic and Colonial styles in wood, and ranging through a large variety of Italian and French models in terra-cotta, cement, stone, and marble. Instinct should tell us that the rustic fur- niture harmonizes best with the bungalow style of architecture, and with the natural, wild, or rock gardens; the simple wooden benches painted white with the Colonial style of architecture, and the old-fashioned or Eng- | lish garden; and the Italian models with the style of architecture and the formal garden. Instinct, however, frequently goes astray, so that it is well to remember that there is as much need for harmony in garden furniture as in furniture for the house. Elabo- rate furniture is inappropriate in either place. The rustic furniture may be either very good or very bad. When it is simple it is very good; when it is elaborate, it is very bad. The elaborate, ostentatious rustic furniture is heavy and ungainly, and as uncomfortable as it is ungainly. The best rustic furniture has simple lines, good proportions, is comfortable, and has the excellent quality of becoming a very inconspicuous part of the landscape, if it is in harmony with the house and garden. That made of hickory or cedar will wear the best. A tar-oil or spar-varnish finish will make it impervious to rain and sun. In this furniture there are arbors, summer villa | houses, chairs, settees, tables, swings, couches, stools, plant tubs, etc. The tables cost from seven dollars up, according to size; the chairs | from two dollars and a half up, according to style; settees from five dollars and a half up; couches, eighteen dollars; swings from ten dollars up; ete. This furniture may be left out in all weathers, and will last through many The Colonial or old English furniture is very simple in construction, usually with slat or lattice backs for the chairs and benches. It is painted white or green. A four-foot bench of this style costs from fifteen dollars up, a table from twelve dollars up, a chair from ten dollars up, ete. There are rose arbors, round chairs to go around trees, benches both with and without backs, seats with arbors over them, sun-dial standards, ete. The shapes are extremely well proportioned, strong, and com- fortable. Next in price comes the composition cement furniture, known as Pompeian stone. It looks like stone, may be made gray, white, or terra- cotta, and has stood the test of cold and rain. It wil! not crack in a frost. The models in this furni- ture are mostly Italian and are, of course, particularly ap- propriate for forma] gardens. The simpler benches, tables, flower tubs, sun-dial pedestals, flower boxes, etc., may, how- ever, be used in the Colonial garden with perfect propriety. The lines, particulary of the simpler pieces, are very beau- tiful, and the material itself, unlike most imitations of something else, is extremely seasons. artistic and satisfying. Some beautiful old models from Italian gardens have been copied with remarkable fidel- ity and beauty. The benches are most of A simple style of plant tub them broad, low seats without backs. The simplest of these, five feet long, costs thirty- five dollars. From that the prices range up as high as a hundred, if there are elaborate backs and arms. The simplest ones are, however, much the best, especially for the ordinary American garden. The tables cost about the same as the benches. Plant tubs, so beautiful for box and bay trees, hydrangeas, etc., cost from seventeen dollars up. One particularly effective sone at that price measures nineteen inches high, twenty-six inches wide at the top, and fourteen inches at the bottom. The shape is that of an ordinary flower pot with a simple Greek Furniture It is possible, however, to have the simplest kind of a square pedestal, made by the home carpenter, or to use a small stone boulder, or old tree trunk. Sometimes the dials are placed on stationary stone or cement tables. The brass dials vary in price from five dollars*up to thirty or more. In cast brass one very simple but extremely good one, thirteen inches in diameter, costs | eleven dollars. One of similar design, seven and three-quarter inches in diameter, costs five dollars, and one nine inches in diameter, nine dollars. The etched brass dials are, of course, more interesting than the cast brass; but they are also more expensive. One twelve inches in diameter costs twenty dollars, and one very elaborate, with a motto en- graved upon it, costs thirty dollars. The hand-engraved brass dials designed and engraved to order cost from twenty-five dollars up. The etched and engraved brass dials are said to be more accurate than the cast-brass dials; but with all of them it is necessary to have the governor, or moving finger, carefully set according to the latitude of the place where it is to be used. Frequently the numerals are cut in the stone of the dial pedestal, requiring then only the gnomon in brass; but these numerals wear with time, while the brass dials last indefi- nitely. Some of the old dials with quaint inscrip- | tions and figures from the zodiac engraved | upon them are more interesting than the new | dials. They are to be found in the antique- shops at prices ranging from fifteen dollars up. | Beautiful garden furniture of Pompeian stone or marble border at the top and bottom. The simpler ones of these, too, are more beautiful than the more elaborate. Lawn vases cost about the same price. No garden should be without its sun-dial. In that the sentiment of the garden centers, and has for many generations. “The hours, unless the hours be bright, It is not mine to mark. I am the prophet of the light; Dumb when the sun is dark.” The most beautiful standards for these are shaped like simple Greek or Roman columns, with Ionic, Doric, or Corinthian capitals. In cement these cost about twenty-two dollars, in painted wood eleven dollars, and in marble from forty-five dollars up. The furniture best suited to the Colonial garden They can, of course, be set according to the desired latitude as well as the new dials. It is very essential to have the dial pedestal | carefully set as well as the gnomon. If the purchaser lives within reach of those from whom both are bought, it is well to have it done under their supervision, though absolute | accuracy in a sun-dial is not essential in these days of clocks and watches. Bird baths are an invitation to our feathered | friends, and may be kept filled from the hose if there is no water connection. High, shallow basins on pedestals resembling small fountains are made in the Pompeian stone. The lines of many of them are very graceful and beautiful. Frequently old fountain basins may be used for the purpose. If they are ugly, it is easy to cover them with vines. The bird bath reminds us of the bird house, which should stand in every garden, either very simple or more or less elaborate. Of course it must be placed high out of reach of the cats. It may sometimes be placed on an old tree trunk, the tree cov- ered with graceful vines. A quaint little house may be easily made of a small keg or barrel with a thatched roof added to give it an artistic effect. frequently the work of well- known sculptors, are very beautiful with their shallow basins outlined with ferns or iris, or both, and the graceful figures in the center. A cement basin without any central figure is far bet- ter than no fountain. They can be made at slight ex- pense, and when edged with ferns and flowers are lovely. The new artistic fountains, | tn emee bo of oe oh oh Se ~ee

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> the made small times me or | ry in more, emely costs | seven | costs leter, but velve llars, | > en- | The and -five urse, | s are Tass ‘v to | fully here | tone | the | vear lefi- ‘Tip- ved new jue- up. | - aad . < ‘

ESIDES being a unique and totally new form of entertainment in America, Chinese luncheons afford an opportunity for delicious and dainty dishes that would tickle the palate of the most exacting of epicures. Served in the real Chinese fashion, with Oriental embellishments and decorations that seem a part of the very food itself, one’s guests become imbued with that quaint far- away feeling, as if you had transported them into a new and charming land. You yourself will be conscious of that finest of all feelings at such a time—the thrill of success of entertain- ment when mere drinking and eating cease to be a necessity, but an illusion and amusement. It is not at all a difficult task to transform the most ordinary of American rooms into a Chinese dining-room. Of course all furniture should be removed or covered or hidden by screens and draperies, of which there is an abundance in all the Chinese stores. If the meal is served indoors daylight should be shut out from the room. Only shaded lights, fascinatingly glimmering through Chi- | nese lanterns, should be used. These come in a variety of styles and all prices. Some of them are beautiful works of art, standing on solid jade or marble pedestals, and again there are the cheap paper lanterns, the latter by no | means ineffective, but, on the contrary, far prettier than the average Western droplights or even candle shades. The coloring is always good, and, when lighted, these Chinese lan- terns in a room shed a soft radiance over every- thing, blending harmoniously with the crude | greens and blues of the dishes. The sensation of stepping from =—-—— daylight into the dim lantern-lighted —_| room, with its odor of burning in- | cense and the savory dishes, acts | like a charm upon one’s guests at the very outset. You get the “foreign sense” at once. A large brass bowl, holding burn- ing incense (do not use the common long punk sticks; get the more lus- cious-odored), must not be forgotten. | An incense bowl is always a most | beautiful object. Sometimes it comes in dull, faded, almost dis- colored brass, with the effect of | great age, and seeming something choice and very rare. Some come with lids made of a single lotus blossom, upon which the Lord Buddha placidly squats. Even the cheaper ones are made with a sure sense of coler and design. I never saw an ugly incense bowl, though I suppose there must be some. Do not think it necessary to load your room with gaudy Oriental | fish) decorations in order to get a Chinese effect. Of the few Chinese-Amer- ican rooms I have seen, all gave the impression of curiosity shops where- in goods were displayed. Eastern people do not scatter their treasures broadcast about a room. Indeed, one gets a far more Oriental effect from the very lack of “mere things” in a room. So beware of all the trashy fans and trifling articles which Mr. Chinaman glibly assures you, “‘Him lookee velly fine on wall!” for a Chinese of any culture at all emphatically does not nail fans upon his walls, nor does he suspend large opened parasols and umbrellas above his table. I saw a room once enthusiastically described as ‘‘Chinese,” from the ceiling of which was a huge Chinese paper umbrella as large as the whole ceiling, and from which were hung count- less little paper lanterns. It looked well enough for some outdoor teahouse in an ex- position ground, but for a house—no! Therefore put nothing on your walls but a few Chinese scrolls, and be sparing with these. These are paintings or prints on silk, crépe, or paper. Some are costly, some a mere trifle in price. Of course Chinese draperies and screens against the walls would be most beau- tiful and lend an air of Oriental richness to the room, but these possibly are not within the means of the average housewife. If you have a chandelier above your table and it is not too large, you may be able to inclose it entirely in one large Chinese lantern; on the other hand, if it is large try to set a little lantern over each gas jet or electric light. Your room has now nothing in it but the sparing wall decorations, the large incense bowl, and the several lighted lanterns. The floor would look well with Chinese grass

matting, but it is really unnecessary to touch carpet or rugs. They will affect the appear- ance of the room very little, particularly if you expect to use several tables. Now the tables! Chinese straw tables are very pretty and suitable for luncheons. They are much more attractive, in my opinion, than = Giving a Chinese Luncheon Party How to Do It in Your Own Home By Sara Bosse the Japanese bamboo, which are a bit common. Japanese tables are, in reality, merely manu- factured for the American trade, for the Japanese themselves never, or very seldom, use them. The Chinese bamboo tables are pure light cream, with basket-weave tops. (The Japanese have brown streaks through the bamboo.) Allow a table for four persons. Stools of Chinese bamboo, or, if expense is no consideration, the teakwood stools with jade tops, or chairs of teakwood, can be obtained in Oriental stores. This is all that is required to arrange a room for a Chinese luncheon. If one’s guests arrive “dressed for the occasion” the scene will have more local color. Even if they wear but the upper Chinese coat, so much esteemed as opera coats in America, when they are seated the effect will be quite Chinese. These jackets can be made from a very simple pattern and of any desired ma- terial, so long as a certain combination of colors, peculiar to the Chinese, is observed. A hip jacket (that is, a coat coming only to the hips) can be made of plain Copenhagen-blue goods, or a dove-gray, but the little plain band or yoke piece must be of some bright contrast- ing color, such as yellow, green, or that peculiar carroty I know no other word to de- scribe this Chinese red. The most fascinating hair ornaments, ridicu- lously cheap, can be bought at any Chinese store, and would make charmingly pretty favors. They are made of flowers, birds, butterflies, curious insects, all in the gaudiest

| Bor lor yeu (Pineapple of colors, but all extremely becoming to women. Have a Chinese “boy” wait on table if possible. If you prefer a maid let her wear her hair Chinese fashion—smooth and with orna- ments, and wear a Chinese jacket. Instruct her to walk noiselessly. The Chinese shuffle in and out of a room with scarcely a sound. Luncheon may, of course, be served on a porch entirely screened with Chinese sun- blinds, through which the sunbeams peep and take the place of the lanterns. The Chinese, when entertaining outdoors, like to have a fountain close at hand, a couple of peacocks, and some Chinese pheasants. Blossoming trees and the green verdure of sloping lawns are always a delightful accompaniment to a Raw bean sprouts and pint jar of syou

meal to John Chinaman. been indited at such a meal in China, for the Chinese love to express their thoughts and dreams through the medium of poetry—not exactly poetry such as we know it here, but a fragrant thought—that is a poem to a China- Many a poem has man. A delicious meal, happy skies, friendly faces—all this surely is inspiration enough. Therefore, if you give your Chinese luncheon outdoors, try having your guests each indite a Chinese “poem,” be it but a wisp of a thought. “On the dragon-fly’s back gleams a tear” (dewdrop), writes a Chinese child. That’s a poem, not only in the fond parents’ mind. According to the Chinese, we all have the germs of poetry in us. Making it rhyme does not enhance the value of a poetic thought to the Oriental mind.

Sara Bosse For chinaware (getting away from poetry) use the Nankin or Canton ware, excepting teacups. These should be very fine and fragile. Tea is said to actually improve in flavor when served in a thin and dainty cup. The medal- lion ware for teacups is the most popular with the Chinese. It can be obtained in the Chinese stores. All the articles purchased for a Chinese luncheon can be utilized elsewhere later, for from the incense bowl to the china- ware upon the table every article is | not only artistic and attractive, but solid and useful. The bamboo | tables are fine for bedrooms in sum- | mer, as they look so clean, sanitary, | and strong, and are so, in fact. | Before giving the menu and re- cipes I want to advise any one who intends to cook @ la Chinois, as the French put it (and French chefs are lately including Chinese dishes), when it is possible to do so, to go to some Chinese restaurant and taste the various dishes you wish to serve. The reason I advise this is because a good cook always should know what a dish tastes like before he tries to cook it. Any cook will tell you how the taste of a strange dish reveals to him many things. Some cooks can by merely tasting tell you just what ingredients are used. I remember trying to cook German dishes, which were a mystery to me, carefully as I followed » soos dan and | recipes, until I went and tasted them | at various German restaurants. In no time I became a past master in concocting their wonderful and often barbarous mixtures. If I had not first tasted them, however, I feel sure I should never have been able to do them in the exactly correct German way. The recipes included below have never been printed before, for the very good reason that they are secret recipes handed down from Vo Ling, a worthy descendant of a long line of noted Chinese cooks, and himself head cook

_ to Gow Gai, the highest mandarin of Shanghai. They are all genuine, and were given to me as a special expression of respect by a near rela- tive of the famous family of Chinese cooks. Menu Mo ku gai (spring chicken soup with mushrooms). Bor lor yeu (pineapple fish). ‘oo yung dan (Chinese omelet with herbs). Extra white chicken chop- suey. Shu bok ap (fried squab). Fried bamboo shoots. Water chestnut salad. Lychee gon (nuts) and al- monds. Almond cakes. Lily-root candy. Preserved sugared ginger. Sugared golden limes. Teas: Loong Taing and Long Sue. Chinese white and red wine. The following is the first dish: Mo Ku Gai (Spring Chicken Soup with Mushrooms) 21% lbs. of chicken. V4 lb. of lean fresh pork. YG Ib. dried mushrooms. 1 dozen water chestnuts. 3 stalks of celery. 14 teaspoonfuls of salt. 1 tablespoonful of syou (Chinese sauce). V4 teaspoonful of sugar. 1 small onion. Thoroughly singe and clean a fresh young chicken, about two and a half pounds, and cut off all the flesh. Put the bones with the liver (Continued on page 146)

A New Breakfast Dish to find favor at the fam- ily table must possess those qualities of taste, appearance and ease of preparation that recom- mend it to each member of the family. The New Food Post Tavern Special appeals to the man of the house and the children because of its delight- ful flavor, the result of skillful blending of the best parts of wheat, corn, and rice— Served asa Hot Porridge It pleases the house- wife and cook because it is quickly and easily pre- pared. Post Tavern Special furnishes a_ substantial dish, full of real nourish- ment and _ satisfaction. Sold by Grocers Packages 10c and 15c, except in extreme West. A 15c pkg. makes 30 generous portions that make for family relish— a trial is convincing. “Tomorrow's Breakfast” Postum Cereal Company, Ltd. Battle Creek, Mich., U.S. A.

Canadian Postum Cereal Company, Ltd. Windsor, Ontario, Canada

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a ‘ow JOOS FONG Gg ww IMPORTED WASH CAS H° TRIMMINGS Sewed on in a moment, Cash’s Wash Trimmings add just the right touch to children’s dresses, Russian blouses, pinafores, and rompers; and nothing is more effective and serviceable for kimonos, dressing sacques, one-piece dresses, waists, bathing suits, etc. Cash’s trimmings are beautifully embroidered in guaranteed fast colors on very fine fabric, and are strikingly effective. They range in width from 3-8 inches to 2 |-2 inches. Cash’s registered patterns will never become common as they are originated by Cash and fully protected in America. Cheap wash trimmings ruin the whole gar- ment by running and fading when Cash’s Imported English Wash Trimmings are guarantged absolutely fast. Be sure you see the Cash trademark (the three spires). washed. Write us for samples and illustrated pattern book in color. With it we will send illustra- tions of many ladies’ and children’s garments, with their pattern numbers, showing the latest spring and summer styles by the best known paper pattern companies, selected especially by experts to indicate many smart ways to use these trimmings. The patterns can be bought at your dealers. Write for these and see how lovely an inexpensive summer costume can be made. J. & J. CASH, Ltd. 625 Chestnut St. , South Norwalk, Conn. I fort All of these Designs are Registered in U. S. Patent Office. Mark Your Linen With Cash’s Woven Name-Tapes in fast color thread can be woven into fine white cambric tape. $2.00 for 12 doz., $1.25 for 6 doz., 85¢ for 3 doz These markings more than save their cost by saving laundry losses. Required by schools and colleges. They make a dainty, individual gift. Orders filled in a week. Write to the above address for samples and order blanks, or order through your dealer. Your full name ROGER ERSRRREReC eee eae Te arreneeenseeeaatl WURNOORENCRERREEAT f CUUNUCCKteeneenemeenereNnEee Trrriiiiiiiiuiiiiiii tt LL the skill and dexterity of a woman’s 4% mind and fingers is called upon in order to create a gown which is going to be her most intimate companion for day in and day out— the house gown. Hunt about the counters of shops for a smart-looking cloth or street vel- vet, but be cautious against buying an oddity which will cause hours of regret or moments of pang and rage. It is perfectly true that a chic-looking piece of material will alone make a gown, devoid of trimming beyond a sheer lace collar, or a woven girdle that some truly artistic thought has prompted. But more happily select a plain charmeuse or satin than an uncertainty. A great many women find this type of gown a problem, and it does take much consideration. Remember that it is to be worn in the house, again to be seen at a Junch where a fur coat has given protection against the blasts of winter winds, and again is called into service for afternoon functions, to be worn with or without a hat. No wonder a woman puckers her brow and thinks with serious intentness. But it can be done well, and a good idea for such a gown is a combination of materials. For instance, the gown when worn outside will be covered, short of the bottom, by the top coat; but it Gown of soft cloth and moire with net under- bodice is practical to have the lower part of the gown of velvet or cloth—or again that much-used plush. This leaves the bodice and the upper part of the skirt to be made of satin or crepe | —so much worn this year—or a crepe brocade enchantingly designed in a great variety of color. For several years one has felt chiffon necessary as a part of these gowns. But we are putting aside the necessity of chiffon with trye feminine methods of radical reform, and giving its place to the supple satins, which make the long, tight kimono sleeve and Robespierre or flat, turn-down collar. This collar is buttoned back onto the bodice by wee little fancy buttons—say three on each lapel —with blind buttonholes embroidered along- side. This affords a light-weight top to a gown which otherwise would be too heavy for the wearer's comfort. Fortunately the dominating spirit of the American woman does not allow her to become a slave to fashion. An idea which her very charming and piquant French sister has not had the courage to reject, the ultra - smart American woman will no doubt adopt. Those uncomfortable fashions that French designers throw out as bait sometimes catch us; but, as a rule, we will use only what suits our need, and let the rest fly to the winds. Therefore, | in the matter of skirts, when a woman must walk, she is not going to be hampered by one that is too tight for her steps. Cleverly she will retain the straight look and insert a pleat to give her comfort. House Gowns of Individuality The New Materials House gowns is a rather elastic term, which may be divided into two or three classes. For receptions and bridge one wears the neck cut quite decidedly lower than for a_ typical luncheon frock. The type of gown slides al- most imperceptibly into what has been for- merly used for the theater, since really low din- ner gowns have come to be used for theater and supper. The skirts are cut with a train, and are usually made of dark colors. Mul- berry, deep shades of gray or green, and brown, are favorite and becoming colors for the American woman. The tops can be of sheer lace combined with the material itself, or all of lace, and long or three-quarter-length sleeves can be determined by each woman’s own preference. It is a day of long sleeves with points or ruffles extended over the hand; their length has little to do with the fact that no collar is worn. Satins and charmeuse silks are important fabrics to use, for they drape so gracefully into long, soft lines, and give one a slender appear- ance to begin with. Another smart combina- tion is a moire top and a velvet skirt, with pieces of the velvet applied to the bodice. Narrow strips of brown fur add tremendously to the effect. A coat of velvet, simply made, buttoned to the throat and cut away, will transform it into a costume. This gown in black velvet and deep cafe-au- lait moire will be very smart with the fur of civet-cat; or dark blue velvet with geranium- colored moire and brown fox fur is an equally charming arrangement of color. Belts are either very narrow or very wide. The narrow ones are of jeweled gold or silver ribbon, flat bands of ribbon or velvet ending in a buckle or stiff bow, or two or three folds of the dress material. The wide belts are some- times wrinkled and sometimes laid in regular | folds. They are finished in various ways. Sashes on house gowns show some odd ar- rangements. Long knotted ends like an abbes | sash are seen, round flowerlike rosettes and | bows with long loops placed diagonally or vertically. One end to the sash is as frequently seen as two. For instance, notice the way the sash is worn on the cloth and moire gown in the first column here. It is joined, or hooked, under a knot at the left side and the | one long end, finished with a deep silk fringe, | is caught all the way down under the right | front of the skirt. Below the knees two tabs button over and catch the end of the sash. While the round-cut neck, slightly low, is worn in the afternoon by many women to whom that style is becoming, there are many others who do not like it or who cannot wear it because of a thin throat. For these women the yoke of shadow lace with plain high trans- parent collar is best, or the newer pleated net front like a man’s dress-shirt. This has the collar tucked around in the same width tucks as the vertical ones in the front. Of charmeuse with velvet and lace

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m, which ses. For neck cut L typical slides al- been for- ’ low din- r theater 1 a train, s. Mul- en, and olors for in be of ial itself, r-length woman’s r sleeves he hand; ‘act that iportant ully into appear- ombina- rt, with bodice. ndously y made, uy, will pafe-au- the fur ‘anium- equally y wide. r silver ding in olds of | + some- | regular | 7S. dd ar- | abbes | *s and lly or | uently ay the | gown ed, or nd the | fringe, | right | 0 tabs le ow, is en to many ear it on the trans- | d net s the tucks i Comfortable Morning Gowns That Look Well MULTITUDE of ideas and suggestions assail us on this subject of house gowns, for it is a question of vital interest to every young matron, or, moreover, any woman who js the mistress of a home. That is one of the first thoughts in the back of a woman’s mind —how to appear, in the early hours of the day, daintily and yet suitably dressed for the early occupations that await her who personally attends to or oversees the management of her house. It is on just these first few hours that the peace and good order of the household hinge. We all know that a well- regulated life cannot be arranged in the later hours; the orders must be placed and the. homely duties of housekeeping attended to before the | social day begins. It is just for this time that one needs a sim- ple frock which can be easily slipped into and out of without the mean advantage that end- less hooks and eyes take over us. The first consideration is a washable fabric—for the cleaner’s bill is already a large enough item in one’s account for satins and laces that can be freshened in no other way. The old-fashioned calico is deadly unin- teresting and no longer a necessity, with the market full to overflowing of twenty-five-cent voiles and printed marquisettes. Of course you could never persuade some women that they could “keep house” in anything besides their dearly-loved calico or gingham gowns that button with prim precision down the cen- ter front; but there are also many people of a broader frame of mind who are searching for more attractive suggestions for these com- fortable frocks, and who will rejoice in the | discovery of a soft material which can be charmingly becoming and quite as practical | as the ugly ones. A vainglorious attempt at bright colors is not wise. Select soft blues, violet, or gray, with which to achieve a practical success. Five yards, of a good-width voile, we will say, will be enough to allow. The skirt for a young woman should be clear of the ground by two inches, with perfectly straight and simple lines, a little fullness on the hips and wide hem. A comfortable sleeve set into the arm- hole and well covering the elbow is also de- sirable—one has no sympathy with a confining kimono sleeve at this hour, unless it is big and loose and roomy. The neck should be low in front. One has to face the discomfort of bones and collars too often during the day, ae ig . z A New Morning Frock of Challis y- 4 not to take advantage of the Dutch neck when one is not on parade. There are many little ways in which to break the monotony of this gown, for to everything in our wardrobe it is nice to feel that a touch of individuality has been applied, and no one thing that we wear should lack a personal interest. A very pretty frock can be made of material with a dull-colored background and a spray design of bright-colored flowers. Cut the skirt as suggested, but open it down the | left side of the front, with a two-inch border of plain voile, if that has been the material selected. Cross the bertha in surplice fashion in front, and edge it with a soft frill of ecru Valenciennes lace, or any lace that will wash. Many of the pretty sheer laces come already pleated on a narrow band, and this will lessen the labor of making and pleating, though it averages slightly more in the cost of buying. The bertha should meet at the waist in the back in a deep V, and there be held in by a long-looped bow, and a ribbon girdle which goes about the waist and fastens under the bow in the back. The short sleeves are finished | A few buttons of ribbon covered | with a frill. with lace will give a charming touch and can be taken off with the ribbon belt when laun- dering is necessary. OMETIMES a warmer stuff is required and printed challis or thin figured flannel is pretty and fresh looking. A plain colored flannel er albatross may also be quite en- chanting, with shawl collars and turn-back cuffs of white cotton crape, and a girdle with long knotted ends of the crape also. Above all, in the main summing up, it is the freshness of such a gown that is of vast importance, and simplicity and washable fabrics alone make this possible and easy to maintain. The simple and practical challis frock at the left of this page is dotted with pink and lavender flowers. A band of ribbon makes a simple belt, and narrow lavender ribbon is run through an embroidery beading. The yoke and sleeve ruffles are of white dotted net with shirrings. Such a dress is easily washed, when the ribbon is pulled out. A less formal morning dress is made of dotted cotton voile, with trimming of simple lace and narrow ribbon. For the woman who does not like the open neck, a separate washable guimpe may be provided. *\ Washable =) Cotton Voile Dress 137 RK a =, Wonderful NewEmbroidery Pattern 14561 Our attractive designs for guest towels. May used on 15 or 18- inch huckaback. To be worked entirely in outline stitch. av 14286 Simple sprays to be embroidered in solid eyelet work on chil- dren's clothes. Very pretty for trimming waists underwear. , in solid eyelet work in white. taste, 14560 A charming collar and ff set f - pi dress, Maybe embroi- on Go to the nearest Store, or use this Coupon to Get this Book %.." with which you can easily—almost magically —transfer designs for embroidering, stenciling and crafts work, to any kind of material in a twinkling. The pattern is made by a secret process, and does away with the old-fashioned perforated pattern and smudgy carbons. All you need is a hot iron, a smooth surface, and instantly the design is transferred. The pattern woman will be glad to show you Ladies’ Home Journal Em- broidery Patterns You'll find more than 800 pretty, practical embroidery designs to choose from. Designs to be used in giving your clothes the distinctive touches demanded this season, designs for decorating domestic linens, and stencil patterns that will go far towards making the “‘house beautiful.” Countless suggesticns for the applying of these designs are found in The Embroidery Book, 15c one of the most practical and helpful publica- tions you have ever opened. This finely illus- trated book, besides showing how the designs may be used to the best advantage, gives ex- plicit directions and diagrams for stitches of every sort—old and new. It takes up crochet se cross-stitching, braiding, scalloping, em- broidering of every style, and stenciling. The March Issue of The Embroidery Book, now on sale, includes the attractive transfer pattern shown in the illustration at the top of the page. et a copy of the March issue and try this free pattern. The price of the Book and Pattern is / fifteen cents. THE EMBROIDERY BOOK Vv THE EMBROIDERY BOOK THE HOME PATTERN COMPANY, Publishers 635 West 43d St., New York Enclosed is 15 cents. Send me the March issue of The Embroidery Book. 4 Jf Address / F My dealer's name is

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The Story Told by the Underside of a Dish What does the trade-mark on a dish tell you ? The trade-mark name ‘‘Homer Laughlin’”’ means that the dishes bearing it were made in the largest pottery in the world, with 41 years of successful ex- perience behind their excellence. It means graceful shapes, de- pendable texture and artistic decorations. In short the trade- mark name HOMER JAUGHLIN means that every piece bearing it is of high quality, guaranteed to stand the tests of time and hard service. Send for The China Book with interesting text and beautiful illustrations in color. It tells why some china is good and some poor. It also gives valuable sug- gestions on the selection and care of dinner ware. It is sent free. The Homer Laughlin - China Co., NEWELL, W. VIRGINIA Art Style40 Schmoller & Mueller Piano You are given bere the opportunityto filla long-felt desire. We have formulated anew and nnequalled plan whereby you can become the immediate possessor of a wonderful and beau- tiful Sweet-toned Schmoller & Mueller at a factory-direct-to-you price. 5& YEARS TO PAY It matters not how little sendy money you have. Write to us today and we will teil you fully of ourpian. It is so unusual Telis you how you cap saving Piabo have asweet- toned Schmolier & Mueller pigse shipped to you atonce. Write ustoday. It willcostyou nothing to get this plan and complete catalogue. A postal card will bring it. Wewillaiso tell you of our special Rep- resentative offer. We want a limited number of rep- resentatives in each community to help us make sales. You are here given an opportunity ofsecuring @ Sweet-toned Schmoller & Rincller piano at the specia! representative price, somewhat lower our regular Factory price. If you are interested in a Schmoller & Mueller Player Piano, 88-note, we will send you @ Player Piano Catalogue. Write today—our catalogue complete unequalled Plan with prices. will come back to you by return mail. Even though you may not desire to buy now, this wonderful plan may some day enable you to own aSweet-toned Schmolier & Mueller SCHMOLLER & MUELLER PIANO CO. Bept. H.B. 33 Omaha, Neb. By MARGARET Tangles ® CAMERON The author is one of the few born story- tellers with a unique talent for inventing the most laughable plots, and every tale accur- ately reflects her own irresistible humor. Illustrated. Post S8vo, Cloth, $1.30 net. HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK Women CAN EARN good income AS Our represent f part of time intr ative, in their own neighborhood, troducing to famil r wtroducing to fa ies of refine Prices range from $ t $150.0 Address “Imported Patterns” P. ©. Kex 206 Madison Square, New Vork City. Gardening from the Artistic Standpoint OREWORD: While the garden is sleeping under its blanket of leaves it is time to send for seed catalogues and make plans for the early spring. Otherwise the busy planting-time will find us unprepared and our gardens will be haphazard collections of flowers, rather than | beautiful natural settings for our homes, as they should be. Moreover, for one who loves flowers, there is no more fascinating study than these same’ seed catalogues. The dream gardens that one plants from their seductive columns have no practical limits. It is only when the practical garden books are consulted that the would-be gardener appreciates his limitations. Garden Books Mrs. J. H. L.—I will gladly send you a long list of books on gardening, any one of which you will find well worth reading when planning your garden. You will find that well-thought- out plans are very essential for the success of the garden itself, and of the general effect of your house and garden together. If you will send me a plan of your grounds, giving some idea of relative space and distance, and a very definite idea of exposure and soil, I will gladly make some general suggestions about laying out the garden. It is very important to know where there is sun and where shade, and whether the soil is dry and poor, or damp and rich. Plans for a Garden Mrs. D. P. W.—You are very wise to refuse to have your lawn broken up with flower-beds scattered here and there. They are absolutely ineffective and ruin the lawn, which is lovely in itself if well kept. You have a beautiful place for your bed of perennials and biennials along the old fence at the right of the house. They will do double duty, covering the fence as well as being beautiful in themselves. Any flower border is far more successful with a back- ground such as your fence will form when covered with woodbine. The border should be between three and four feet wide, with a waving edge. The plants that you have in readiness for the bed, as a result of your fore- sight last year, will combine very artistically. | Place the hollyhocks next the fence, the lark- spurs in front of them, the lilium candidum among the larkspurs, the foxgloves and Canter- bury bells in front of them, and the sweet- williams in the front row. Color in a Garden Mrs. G. P. S.—The color arrangement of a garden is not as simple as it sounds, but it is very important. You are very wise to keep your poppies and nasturtiums away from the foxglove bed. The colors of the foxglove, Canterbury bells, snap-dragons, etc., are all too soft to combine harmoniously with either the reds of either poppies or nasturtiums. The best place for the nasturtiums is over next the stone wall, quite by themselves. They will make, the wall a place of gorgeous color. The poppies are most effective by themselves, also. I would suggest for them a long, wide bed in front of the grape arbor, where they will have a beautiful background of green. Put the yellow and orange annuals together, with clumps of corn flowers to relieve the yellow. Blue flowers are beautiful combined with white, pink, and lavender, and a few dull, velvety reds. A Vine-covered Screen Mrs. R. O. T.—Vines are just the purpose you suggest. of heavy wire in front of the shed and plant several roots of clematis paniculata. It should cover the wire in a few years, if you get large, healthy plants. In the mean time, however, I would advise you to plant some wild cucumber vines and Japanese morning- glories. If you plant them early in the season, they will cover the screen easily, while the perennials are growing. very useful for Build a screen Varieties of Iris Mrs. A. H. R.—No, it is not difficult to cultivate the German and Japanese iris, and they are wonderfully beautiful. They require rich soil, and must be kept very wet, especially during the budding and blossoming seasons. You can combine all the colors in one bed very safely without any danger of lack of harmony in color. They are perennials and will increase very rapidly. Pergola Mrs. L. E. Y.—You will be very unwise to destroy the old summer house, so beauti- fully covered with vines, for the sake of re- placing it with a modern pergola. In fact, I do not think that the pergola would har- monize with your remodeled farmhouse, and the old summer house does. If, however, you wish a place to plant wistaria and climb- ing roses, why not build an old-fashioned arbor from the house to the summer house? Home Decoration and Furnishing FROM each month’s letters the topic interesting to the largest number is selected. The letters treating of it are answered here. and its relation to the rest of the house; it is often better than a long description. personal reply will be sent if you inclose a stamped self-addressed envelope. In writing send a rough plan of your room A Address all letters to “* Home Decoration,” Harper’s Bazar, Franklin Square, New York City That would break up that disagreeable space, and would be extremely appropriate as well as beautiful. You can then use the little summer house for afternoon tea. On the south side, with the summer house as a back- ground, you can have a mass of hardy phlox in some new colors, with snap-dragons and candytuft in the foreground. Flower-bed Borders Mrs. D. C. K.—The two borders three feet wide, edged on the walk side with a low box hedge, will be charming. Filled with peonies, they will be beautiful in the peony season; but what about the rest of the summer? If you do not plant the peonies too close to- gether, you can scatter among them bulbs of the beautiful lilium auratum and roots of fox- glove. The foxglove will follow the peonies, and the lilies the foxglove. Along the front edges of the borders you might have several rows of asters to bloom in the fall, and it would not be at all impossible to have daffodil, narcissus, or tulip bulbs for early spring flowering. Perennials, Biennials, etc, INqutrRER. — Perennials, when properly planted and enriched each year, with resetting and dividing at least every five years, are sup- posed to last indefinitely and increase in size and beauty year by year. Biennials are planted one year to blossom the next, but will not blossom another year. Annuals grow, blossom, and die down in one season. i Try " Rose Trellis Gardening from the Practical Standpoint OREWORD.—If one wishes to-gucceed in gardening, it is extremely important to buy | both seeds and plants at the most reliable places. | Otherwise labor and money are both frequently wasted. It is also very necessary, not only to plant the garden very carefully from the artistic standpoint, but to study the peculiarities | of plants and soil, so that the flowers may all be placed where they will thrive best with the least possible cultivation and care. It will be necessary to give them all both cultivation and care, but, if very little is required, both the gar- dener and the flowers will be grateful. Seed Catalogues While the descriptions of the wonderful size and beauty of plants and flowers in the seed catalogues are to be discounted, their sugges- tions and directions concerning the times of buying, both the time and conditions of plant- ing, the cultivation, etc., are to be very care- fully observed. In the best catalogues are to be found lists of annuals, biennials, and per- ennials, giving the best time for planting; the sizes, the colors, and the demand of each flower in regard to soil, water, and sun. Each plant has its peculiarities, and may not be placed wherever it is convenient from the esthetic standpoint alone. Lawn Grass ‘ It is possible to buy grass seed that will grow in the shade, also seed that produces grass with sufficiently stout roots to defy drought, exposure, and washouts. Still an- other kind of seed develops into grass that thrives in hot, dry soil, and even in the sand at the seashore, if it is properly started. For a new lawn one quart of grass seed is required for every three hundred square feet. For renewing old lawns one-quarter to one-half that amount is sufficient. The best seed costs about thirty cents a quart. In from four to six weeks it will be ready for mowing, if prop- erly started. Rolling the lawn in the spring prepares it for the new seed. It should be thoroughly fertilized, also, just before a rain. Watering Watering both lawn and garden is so all- important that it is false economy not to have faucets for hose attachments on every side of the house and barn. It saves labor and insures success for the garden and lawn. Gardening is not easy work, especially when Nature does not do her share. Droughts come at the worst possible times, although there is never any very good time for one. Sprinklers, hose nozzles with graduated spray, small wate: carts, etc., make the task as easy as it may be made, and are being improved all! the time. It is false economy not to purchase every labor- saving implement that there is on the market. Watering should be done either very early in the morning each day, or just at sunset; never when the sun is shining on the flowers or grass. Shrubs The basement of a house is never beautiful. There are groups of low-growing, delicate shrubs that may be planted to conceal a base- ment, some of them adapted to shady places, and some to sunny places. A group that does not grow too high and may be grown in the sun consists of Spire@a van Houttei, Rhodotipus kerriotdes, Deutzia lemoineii, Kerria japonicus and Forsythia suspensa. A group that will thrive in a shady place consists of Berberis purpuria, Philadelphus coronarius, Spirea prunifolia and Weigelia rosea. Garden Tools Garden implements appropriate for a woman are, many of them, a little smaller than the ordinary implements. She should have every- thing that will make her work easy. The gar- den baskets, rubber-lined, containing shears for cutting flowers and pruning plants, wire and string for training them, bunches of labels, etc., are not only convenient, but very attrac- tive. They should contain a note-book for keeping a record of garden proceedings. Time for Planning February is the month for planning the gar- den, the early part of March the time for ordering, and the middle the time to plant some of the seeds that must be started in the house to make them blossom early when set out in the ground. The time for setting them out-of-doors is usually from the tenth to the fifteenth of April. We will give advice of all kinds regarding the garden in this department if the letters are sent in time. Write at once. enclosing a plan and stating conditions.

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eauce ae Canapes de Luxe By Helen Labagh Johnson OTH brown and white bread are used for the foundation of these canapés, while the decora- tions are in every instance made from the whites or yolks of hard-boiled eggs, or both. When the flowers used for the center of the table are the same as those used on the canapés, White-rose Canapes TOR the foundation of this canapé, two rounds of white bread are sautéd in olive oil, until of a light brown color. Spread be- tween them a generous amount of caviar, which has been mixed with mayonnaise dress- ing and a little chopped parsley and gherkins. Spread a little mayonnaise in the center of the top round and proceed to decorate it with a white rose made in the following manner: Peel the white of a hard-boiled egg round and round, as you would an apple. Scallop the edges with a knife or scissors, and arrange it on the toast to simulate, as near as possible, a full blown rose. Put the yolk of the egg through a vegetable-ricer, and season. Cheese Canapes PREAD a round of brown bread with a cheese filling made in the following man- ner: Melt one teaspoonful of butter, add one cup of grated cheese, one-quarter teaspoonful of mustard, a little cayenne, salt, and the yolk of raw egg. Beat well and add cream to make it of the right consistency. Place a round of white bread on top, and spread with soft butter. The “single rose’ decoration may be made from the yolk of the egg for a yellow flower, the white of the egg for a white rose, or, treated as in the preceding recipes, with either beet juice or cochineal, a beau- tiful “wild rose” may be constructed. a beautiful scheme of decoration may be worked out. Cosmos Canapes WO rounds of white bread which have been sautéd in butter are used for these canapés. A mixture is spread between the brcad, which is made of the following ingre- | dients: Put through the meat-grinder twice one large boiled beet, two gherkins, anchovies, and half a dozen pimolas. with mayonnaise dressing and add a dash of cayenne and salt if needed. For the flower decoration, hard-boiled eggs, the shells of which had been removed, were allowed to remain overnight in a jar containing slices of boiled beets and a weak solution of vinegar and water. The whites of the egg were a beautiful pink when ready to serve. Oyster Canapes HIS is one of the simplest to construct, and also one ef the most offective—of the flower decorations. Two rounds of bread, which have been sautéd in butter on one side only, are spread with an oyster mixture made four | Moisten | from six large 6Bysters, one tablespoonful of | capers, and the same of pimento, chopped fine; add one tablespoonful of horseradish, salt, and a dash of cayenne pepper with mayonnaise to form a thick paste. Strips of the whites of hard-boiled eggs are cut in slender petals with a sharp pair of scissors and arranged about a yellow center, in the shape of a daisy or chrysanthemum. Sardine Canapes AUTE rounds of white bread in hot butter on one side only—then spread with the following mixture: Remove the skin and hones from a can of sardines; pound in a mortar with one tablespoonful of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little paprika. Spread a round of toast with the mixture, place on it a very thin slice of ripe tomato, then a little toast. Spread a little soft butter on the top of this, and from the whites of hard- boiled eggs cut out petals shaped like those in the illustration. Arrange the etals about a center cut with a thimble from a slice of the yolk of the egg. Place a smaller circle of green in the center of the yellow. Water-lily Canapes *PREAD rounds of white bread, which hav« \7 been dipped in melted butter and browned in the oven, with “watercress butter.” To prepare this, cream butter, add four tablespoonfuls of watercress which has been chopped fine, and two minced anchovies, with sufficient salt to season. Spread between two rounds of toast, and also on top of them. Decorate with a water-lily made from the whites of hard-boiled eggs, | using the yolks, which have been seasoned and put through a vegetable-ricer, for the center. | The egg whites are cut in thin slices to form | Press the lowest petals into | the lily petals. the paste. Yellow Pansies SOFT. flaky biscuit is used for the founda- tion, and as the pansy requires the central or largest slices of the hard-boiled yolk of the egg—the “trimmings” are used in the mixture, together with one tablespoonful of olive oil, six sardines, half a teaspoonful of made mus- tard, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce. Pound together until the paste is smooth, and spread evenly. Pour a little melted butter on top, so that the flower will adhere. A few tiny strips of lettuce will furnish the center decoration of the pansy. Marigold Canapes UB together two tablespoonfuls of butter, two of anchovy paste, a little mustard, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Add to this a dozen minced capers and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Spread between rounds of brown bread, and put a little on the top to keep the decorations in place. To make the flower, slice the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and with a penknife cut out the petals. Arrange around a center of anchovy paste. Garnish the plate with a few sprigs of chicory which resemble closely the marigold foliage and complete the artistic effect. two tablespoonfuls of | gag “Indeed There Is ° 99 a Difference! Leave it to the judgment of your guest--to your owz sense of taste—and prove how ézg a differ- ence there is between Heinz Baked Beans —which are oven-baked—and the ordinary 2 canned beans which are merely boiled or steamed. . ’ Truly, there’s no comparison. The reason why Heinz Baked Beans are such prime favorites among the 57 Varieties A —why they are the choice in millions of homes to- be day—is because Heinz Baked Beans are the very choicest selected beans, baked in the old-fashioned . : way till they’re so tender and flavory that the palate é can’t resist them. They’ve far more nutriment, 4 too. And Heinz Tomato Sauce, known the world over, adds a zest beyond description. The United States Government forbids the use : of the word “Baked” on the tins of beans that by are not baked. Heinz Baked Beans are baked ; and labeled “ Baked.” There are four kinds of. Heinz Baked Beans: Heinz Baked Beans with Pork and Tomato Sauce. Heinz Baked Pork and Beans without Tomato Sauce— (Boston Style). Heinz Baked Beans in Tomato Sauce without Pork—(Vegetarian). Heinz Baked Red Kidney Beans. Others of the 57 varieties are: Tomato Ketchup, India Relish, Euchred Pickle, Chili Sauce, Mince Meat, Peanut Butter,Grape Fruit Marmalade H. J. Heinz Co. > Over 50,000 Visitors Inspect the Heinz Model Pure Food Kitchens Every Year

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140 Good Hair The Duchess of Marlborough Recommends Ms MASONS Gatley HAIR TONIC This is the Hair Tonic used by Kate Seaton Mason, the noted English Hair Specialist in treating the hairof the Vanderbilt family, Duchess of Marlborough, Mme. Melba andthe leading societ women of New York, London and Paris, who testify to its superiority for thin, falling, weak, brittle, splitting and dead-looking, lusterless hair. Mrs. Mason’s Old English HAMPOO CREAM Makes Hair Look Twice as Thick as It Really Is — Soft, Fluffy, Lustrous. This pure antiseptic shampoo, made from tonic, cleansing herbs is un- equalled to cleanse and invigorate the hair and scalp, remove dandruff, dust, excess oil, frrits ation, and to- gether with the Hair Tonic makes a complete treatment that insures verfect hair and scalp health. r Tonic, $1.00. Shampoo Cream, 25c a tube—enongh for several shampoos. At Drug & Dept. Stores or sent postpaid Send 2c. for Mrs. Masot's book, “* The Hair and How to Preserve It,” containing autograph letters from fa- mous women. Also a trial tube of Shampoo Cream, THE PAXTON TOILET CO., Boston, Mass. Design No, 8076, Size 17x22 inches Tinted in Shades of Russet Brown, Delft Blue.and Yellow Tapestry Pillow Outfit Free W E will give you this handsome pillow top made of Pure, Line n Russian Crash and teash you the new “‘tapestry’’ embroidery stitch absolutely free if you will send us 30c to cover the regular retail price of 6 skeins of Richardson's Grand Prize Grecian Silk Floss and postageonoutht. Outfit that wegive consistsof 1 Pillow Top of Pure Linen Russian Crash. 1 Pillow Back 1 Lilustrated E asy Diagram Lesson showing you every stitch of the new Tapestry Design. 1 New Premium Art Book (500 Premium offers). Richardson’s Grand Prize Grecian Silk Floss is a pure silk floss that is unexcelled for all sorts of embroidery work, We are making this remarkable offei in order to prove to you its overwhelming superiority. enclosing 30c in stamps or silver Send Now W and your dealer’s name. Your money refunded if you are not absolutely satisfied. RICHARDSON SILK COMPANY Dept.2053 305-9 W. AdamsSt. Chicago, Ill. St. Patrick’s Day Favors Green Higt h Hat (box) with Pipe, toc, Shamrock Ice. Cream Cases,75¢ dozen. Pip with f ing lrish Flag Fan, sc. Irish Jaun ‘tin g Car with Donkey ,15c. Green Celluloid Balancing Bird with Dinner Card, toc. Irish Girl and Bx ry Figures, Assorted, toc, 20c each. Gree n Silk Hearts (box) Green Metal Snakes, Green Suit Cases, Green Metz il Snake Bracelets toc each. Crepe-paper Hat containing favor, 5c. Green Silk Harps, Potatoes, Clay Pipes on 2 Frogs, Shillelaghs, Green high Hats Shamrock j Pots, 5ceach, Silk Shamrocks, 15c dozen, St. Patrick B hw tons, 30c dozen. Irish Silk Flags Mounted 5c, 10c each. Paper Pin Flags, 15¢ dozen. Silk Irish Flag on pin, sc. Green Silk Ribbon, 20c per roll. St. Patrick Snar pping Mottoes, 50c box. Crepe-paper Napkins, 35¢ package. Irish Paper Flapjacks containing favor, 15¢ each Irish Rose Cases, Ice-Cream Size, $1.80 dozen. Salted Nut Size, 90c dozen. Green Crepe-paper Baskets, Ice- Cream Size, $1.20 dozen. Midget Size, 90c dozen. Irish Jack Horner Pie, 12 Ribbons, $4.00. Dinner Cards, 40c y Cards, 25c dozen dozen. Tall 0 assortments o1 St. Patrick We make up $1.00 and $2 Favors. We carry a large variety of assorted Easter Figures, at Sc, 10c, 1§c, 25c, soc each. Fancy Paper Eggs, 5c, 100, 1Sc, 2§¢, Sec, $1.00 each Large Favor Catalog for all occasions free on request. We positively do not pay mail charges. B. SHACKMAN & CO., Dept. 7, 906 Broadway, New York N IMPORTANT Many who are already working for prizes They evidently think that because they are doing work which makes it announcement for all. have not sent in their names. unnecessary for them to send for designs they need not enter formally as contestants. This is a The Bazar needs to enroll the name of | every woman who is working for a prize, whether mistake. or not she needs a design. All names should be sent this month, that the records may be carefully | ive pt and arrangements made to handle the great when it comes in. THe | mass of work EpITors. PPARENTLY there are many persons who have not seen the original announce- ment of The Bazar’s Prize Needlework Con- test, and so do not under- stand what the contest is. They ask many surprising questions, chief among which is, “‘ Where are we to get the designs, if you wish special ones used?” As was explained in these pages some months ago, for the classes of this Contest where embroidery is the main feature of the work,we supply designs, and these designs must be used with- out alteration. That last clause does not mean that if you are making a baby’s dress, you must make it long in order to use all of the pat- tern. If a short dress is pre- ferred you can leave out a little of the front panel de- Class C sign and use all that the ae ee length of the skirt will ac- commodate. If you are making a towel and the linen you want to use is a little narrower or wider than our pattern, you may leave out a little or add a few scallops to make it fit. Reasonable common sense will be used in giving per- mission for such little altera- tions of design as are neces- sary. As to obtaining patterns, anyone who wishes to enter the Contest may send to The Bazar for embroidery designs for the four classes. One design will be sent, or even more if for any special reason the contestant wishes to work on two pieces at once—colors in the daytime and white at night, for instance. In the crocheting, knitting, and plain- sewing classes no designs ‘are furnished by The Bazar. Contestants may choose their own stitches and patterns in these parts of the contest. The question has been asked whether the case for traveler's towels may be made of colored linen with white embroidery, and we have given per- mission to do so. The little case is intended to be caught together at the sides, by the way, so that the towels m: iy be’ slipped into it and packed away in the traveler's suit-case or satchel. It looks much like an envelope when finished. Another question which has been asked many times is whether there will be any chance to sell work sent in in competition for the prizes. All that can be said in answer to that question is that last year when the prize work was exhibited there were many questions as to the prices of various pieces, and quite a number, where prices had been given, were sold. Those who send in work may write on the label the price at which they are ih — to sell it. No commission will be charged Class D Size, The Bazar’s New Prize 623 Prizes; Over $1,500 Size, 22 x 30 inches Round Centerpiece No. 6 in diameter Lingerie Pillow-Case -No. 4 11x 16 inches Oval Centerpiece Glass C—No. 4 A Kimono Class B—No. 2 Round Centerpiece Class Size, 22 inches in diameter Baby’s Pillow Class Size, 1 5x20 inches ‘Needlework Contest on the sale; whatever price is paid will be sent to the owner. In Part I. of Classes B and D, some expla- nation seems to be needed. The word “knitted” should have been put in. It was forgotten when the circular was printed. Knitting, crocheting, or tatting may be used for trim- ming, or for a complete waist. Any design may be used, any kind of cotton or linen thread. The same rule applies to the collar and cuff set, to the towel, and to the pillow slip. In Part II. of Class B, one item is “ta work- bag in crewel-work.” Some of our corre- spondents are much puzzled by that. Prob- ably they do not remember that, some years ago, embroide sry in crewels was much in favor in England, and the fashion was copied here. Crewels are thin twisted worsted threads which are made especially for such embroidery, and their use in designs on woolen and even silk dresses and sometimes on velvet has come into fashion again this year. In Paris, the woolen embroidery has been quite a fad on gowns and coats, and on accessories of dress. For this reason we put into our prize list the work-bag. It may be made of any preferred material, and the design may be whatever the — worker chooses —- flowers, conven- tional figures, or cross- stitch. For women who love naturalistic embroidery, the shading of flowers in the natural colors, the most charming designs on our list, perhaps, are the three centerpieces illustrated on this page. These are to be worked in silks, while the background material may be whatever the worker wishes—linen, silk, or any one of the effective heavy materials that one can find in a good upholstery shop. No. 4 is a design of poppies and daisies. On a tan linen, with the rich red of the poppies, the soft grayish greens of their leaves and the white and yellow of the field daisies, this makes a beautiful cover for a library table or centerpiece to be used on the dining-room table between meals. The network pattern is very pretty worked in a heavy floss drawn across the full length of each line, with the crossings caught down by little crossed stitches of another color put in diagonally. The outlines of these latticed figures should be worked in solid em- broidery. The double scallop: around the edge is very effective, also. Pansies are flowers which offer almost unlimited chances to the worker in shading. In No. 6 they are combined with lilies-of-the-valley and their own green leaves. Almost any colors may be combined in the pansies, and at any time of year the real blossoms may be obtained for study as to coloring and shading. Just a little padding at the edges of the petals will make the flower stand out beauti- fully if it is well shaded. The circle of small dots should be worked solid. This design may be worked entirely in white silk on white linen for a dinner- table centerpiece, with these dots worked as eyelets. The wild-rose design would naturally be em- broidered in pinks, but as there are single white roses and yellow ones, these colors may be used if preferred. The ribbon of the pattern should be worked in satin-stitch. C—No. 7 A—No. 5 man boheme a ew me

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right and honorable. ‘The Autobiography of a Divorced Woman (Continued from page 111) piness and peace, in their own way. Each of us had gone out in the world unhampered by the other’s blighting presence. As soon as we were together again that awful silence that unhappily ‘mated people like ourselves come to know so well, settled down on us. like a fog. When we had been home a week my little girl threw herself into my arms and c ried: ‘Oh, I wish we were back again in Europe, where we were so happy!” She didn’t know why we were less happy at home, but she said she hated home. As for my boy, his new-found self-confidence vanished under his father’s sarcasm. Most of my first weeks at home I passed in considering the childre n’s case. The thought came to me then, “* What is the use of this? Why should there be four unhappy, incomplete people in the world when there might be four happy ones? Why should we continue to live to- gether? For what reason are we doing it— for our children, for each othe Tr, OF for an abstract bogy of respectability?” FELT the need of talking this over with some one and went to an old friend of my mother’s. She had encouraged me to begin my school work and had predic ‘ted my suc- cess, but when I began telling her how I felt she was very much shocked. What she said, in substance, was this: “Your husband is a good man—he is up- Every woman has some- thing to put up with from the man she marries. Marriage is a sacred institution. If all people who are unhappily married left each other, where would we be? Home is home, whether it is harmonious or not—a unit of the state. Be patient and long-suffering and work hard and you'll find you'll forget more and more about your difficulties with your husband.” Her remarks did clarify my mind, though not in the way she intended they should. Home, it appeared, was not a place for de- velopment, for the happiness and welfare of those who lived in it, but an abstract fetish to be kept intact. If it killed those who made it, never mind. : The situation between us grew rapidly more acute after my return. William had been much happier without me, and he imagined that it was because I had changed, and for the worse, that he was less contented now that I was home again. When he had a business | opportunity that took him to another town, | the convenience of it appealed to him. and I suggested that I should remain behind for a time and go on with my school while he settled himself, the economy of my plan and So bound were we by conventions, that poor William went through the farce of pretending each Sunday he was going to visit us, though he came only once, when business called him. As the weeks went on, it seemed to me more and more impossible to join him. Finally I made up my mind that I would not, for it had come to me, during that talk with my old friend, in a great burst of light, that I was staying with my husband not because of any | inner conviction, but because of a convention grown meaningless to me. J HAD not considered the question of divorce at that time. All I cared was to arrange my life so that William and I would have to live together as little as possible. In this chance favored me. An illness of my mother’s called me East, and I took the children with me, as the schools were better where I was going. At the same time there was a chance for me to co-oper- ate in a successful school that was already started, one of the teachers having married. William was perfectly contented to have me away from him—more than contented; his life was fuller and happier without me. He too could blossom, once my irritating presence was removed; but at that time, had I men- tioned the word separation or divorce to him, his feeling of possession would have asserted itself violently. I was his wife and his chil- dren were his children; and though he could willingly separate himself from them for ten years and then another ten, as long as. he could delude himself about the situation, yet I knew that the moment the separation seemed to him a permanent affair some obscure instinct in him would make him clamor for the wife whom he didn’t want. I had been East a year. Jt had been a happy, peaceful year for the children and my- self. The shadow over my life was that William would want me back. I had done as he wished as much as I could; his feeling of | being master was so impressed on me, so deeply ingrained in me was the spiritual cowardice that a marriage like ours breeds in a woman, that I had an inner feeling that I would have to do what he said. During the summer vacation William came toe see us, as business had called him East. During the first day of his visit he made a vague reference to my return and I answered impulsively: “Oh, William! you’re so much better off and so much happier without me. Why should we play this farce out? Why shouldn’t you make your life over again?” “Do you mean a divorce?” he answered. From his point of view the only reasons for divorce were habitual drunkenness and_ the kind of cruelty that means physical violence. He hated, too, the confession of failure that an open break with one’s wife is—for it does mean failure. “We get on as well as many married people,” was one of the things he said. “IT blame my- self,” he said, repeatedly, “for letting things come to such a pass. That’s what happens when people separate.” He didn’t want me, but he didn’t want to let me go. He had made my position as his housekeeper neither’decent nor dignified. No paid housekeeper would have remained with him on the terms which his service implied. I had earned my own living for years and yet so ingrained in us is custom that he considered me immoral in being unwilling to fill this place in his life—a place he had made so un- tenable. Yet I saw too clearly the other side of it; I saw too clearly where I had failed and I came very near to going back to give “another trial” to a life that had spelled unhappiness to all of us. The thing was decided by the children. Lester asked me one day in the presence of his father: “Mother, are you going West this fall?” “I’m thinking of it seriously,” I said. “Well, I'm not going,” Lester declared. “T think I'll stay on with Grandmother and go to school here.” “You'll do exactly what I think is best for you,” retorted William. He had given the matter of what was best for Lester almost no thought; he had been perfectly satisfied with the children’s progress in school and had been at one with me in his desire to have them educated in the East. “T’m not going West, Father; I want to stay here,”’ Lester repeated, quietly. “Let me tell you, young man,” said William, “T pay the bills of this family, an d while I pay the bills you do what I say. “You don’t need to pay my bills one moment longer,” replied Lester. “I. can work like a lot of other fellows do. I don’t want to go; Reg. Trade Mark White and Colored Wash Fabrics Our collection of Dress Cottons, Shirtings and Dress Linens is now very complete. Among the new ma- terials are the latest French shades and color com- binations. Cotton Voiles, in stripe, check, solid colors, embroidered figures, silk stripe, etc., 40 to 45 inches wide, 28c to $1.25 per yard. Poplins, Repps, Gros Grain and Ottoman Cords in colors and white, 28 inches wide, 25c to 75c per yard. White Pique, French and Eng- lish manufacture, all size cords, 27 to 44 inches wide, 35c to $1.25 per yard. French Crepe, in white and colors, showing a wide range of plain and embroidered effects, also plain shades, 31 to 44 inches wide, 75c to $1.75 per yard. Japanese Crepe, in a range of solid colors and colored stripes on white grounds, 30 inches wide, special at 25c per yard. The assortment includes: French Crepe and Voile, printed or embroidered in Dresden or Bulgarian colors, 40 inches wide, $1.75 to $2.50 per yard. Irish Dimities, in all white or white grounds printed in floral effects, also dots, figures and stripes, 25c to 4Sc per yard. French Eponge, Ratine and Velour, in white and solid colors, also two tone black and white stripes and mixed suiting effects, 40 to 52 inches wide, $1.25 to $3.75 per yard. Dress Linens from the leading French, Irish and Continental manufacturers. Every new weave and shade is represented as well as the various widths and weights in whites, also natural black and white, and mixed suiting effects, prices 25c to $1.25 per yard. Samples of any of these lines, except bordered materials, mailed upon request. James McCutcheon & Co., 5th Ave. & 34th Street, N. Y. ox I can’t study the things I want to and I'm going to stay here.” TL: paren . This led up, as you can imagine, to a violent explosion. “This,” work.” William cried to me, “is your T seemed to me that all the unjust, tyran- nical, unlovely aspect of the old-fashioned marriage pressed around me. J saw what life would be with William; I saw myself evad- ing, avoiding, repressing ply opinions con- tinually. Free expressiondg and free thought, however harmless, stamped on, if I didn’t agree with William. I saw myself again watched suspiciously to see if I thought I knew more about a subject than he. I saw Madeline learning to avoid trouble with her father, and Lester separated from me, -and I asked myself, “For whose sake am I doing this thing?” Then and there I decided to get a definite divorce, and directly it had been decreed William married again, and married a woman much more suited to find happiness with him than I. He.must sometimes. wonder for what reason we stood our lamentable marriage as long as we did. There was in the relation itself neither de- cency nor dignity. It dwarfed us both; it limited our children’s growth and made them unhappy. Not only were we so irrevocably dissimilar that we prevented the deve lopment of each other, but it was blighted from the first by the old idea of marriage, which is based on the idea that a man owns his. wife and is ““master” of his house, and was further clouded by the irritable masculine vanity which makes a man dislike and suspect in- telligence in his womankind. Our tempera- ments nothing could have changed. Educa- tion could have given us both a higher and finer idea of the relation, which would have rendered our incompatibility more bearable. I had lived for seventeen years under condi- tions that were crippling and it seems to me that I have really lived only since my life is my own. I feel deeply that I was much to blame that I took no decisive step sooner than I did, but let superstition blight the lives of all of us. Every woman who has used Murray & Lanman’s Florida Water, finds it indispensable for her daily comfort and has given it a permanent place on her dressing table. She finds especially delightful its reviv- ing effects in the bath. Leading Drugzgists sell it. Accept no Substitute! Sample sent on receipt of six cents in stamps. fi At Christmas, birthday, gradua- tion, or gift-time of any sort Her Memory Book Designed by HELEN HAYES DAINTILY illustrated volume in which a record of various important and in- teresting events of girlhood days may be kept. Provision is made for all social di- versions—dances, luncheons, teas—festiv- ities of all sorts, college events, and the sports of the four seasons. In the voluine may be inserted cards, invitations, samples of favorite frocks, photographs, and the hundred and one things the average girl likes to treasure. A delightful improvement over the ‘‘ home-made ’’ memory book. Square Quarto, Decorated Cover, Specially Boxed, Price $2.00 HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, N. Y. Sot dats at reer ts: fill with Sheftord ” Saappy”’ Cheese; then close up again; moisten Mt necessary and roll in crushed Walnut meats Shefford Suappy Cheese, because of the process, has exceptional food value, and } is perfectly digestible If your grocer doesn’t have it, we will ship prepaid for his name one package l0c—1 duzen for $1.20. Ky iaaae)i), TRADE MARK SNAPPY ao CHEESE Beware : = JONS For a cage gam color booklet ‘ we will send our palatable A,” giving full particulars — as well as many yom oe for menus and a host == of distinctive, rare recipes. CRESCA COMPANY, Importers, 335 Greenwich St., N.Y. Address

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THE perfection of hospi- tality is found in exquisite table appointments. Embroidered napery, dain- ty china, the glitter of cut- glass and the sparkle of Crystal Domino Sugar heaped high in the bow] — round out well ordered re- finement. Only the best of the sugar crop is used for Crystal Domino Sugar and scrupulous cleanliness is observed in each step of refining and crystalizing. The sealed package safe- guards its dainty cleanli- ness until the last Domino is used. One of the Quality Products of The American Sugar Refining Co. 117 Wall Street New York City Read the story of its making in our splendidly illustrated booklet. Sent Address Dept. | 1 free on request. 1 ulate RYilet ECS Sibs

cA —< =— a \ 97 The Gentle Art of Home-Making (Continued from page 125) With differences of detail, which would be quite immaterial, the important point is that such an idea as this, of transforming a doorway into a cupboard, is an idea very practical and widely adaptable. The taste for cupboards and the need for more cupboards seem to go hand in hand. Cupboards to right of them, cupboards to left of them—that is what every homemaker wants; and if a house hasn’t enough of them it is clear that somebody has blundered. And that Tennysonian paraphrase is remindful that the building of cupboards and the filling of cupboards with treasures may add much to the poetry and delightfulness of life—al- though, strangely enough, the poets them- selves have pretty much overlooked the poct- ical possibilities of it all. It is probably safe to say that nowhere in Tennyson and (to mention a poet widely different) nowhere in Milton is there even a mention of a cupboard, the subject having been left to men of prose; as good old Hakluyt, with his “cupboard of plate, most sumptuous and rich”—words de- lightfully suggestive of charm. With ourselves, no sooner was the doorway cupboard built, following the adjustment of fireside cupboards, than there arose imperative need for still another cupboard, and with this ' came a mounting ambition to attempt some- thing still more important, something that should be of real architectural significance. This feeling came largely from the fact that this next cupboard was to be for the housing of a very considerable number of pieces of old china, brought from abroad; pieces that we highly prized, and to which we hoped to give generous space and a housing commensurate ; with our love for them. N one of his delightful essays Charles Lamb tells of his love for old china being so great that, when he goes a-visiting, his first inquiry is for the china cupboard—or china closet, as he calls it, thus implying that the china was out of sight behind wooden doors. This feature we wished to avoid. It seemed de- sirable to have old china in sight; with reserve, of course, but still so to show itself that no stranger would need to make Lamb-like in- quiry as to its location. We wanted the new cupboard, on account of its contents, to be in the old-fashioned parlor of the house, for we had frequently felt the charm, in houses in England and Holland, of the drawing-room cupboard, filled with ex- quisite old china. Old china should never be perched pre- cariously on hanging-shelves or other things shakable—it should never be housed hazard- ously on tables. It should not even be, if it can be avoided, put in movable cabinets, as it is in most of the houses abroad where we found it looking so charming. Constantly one comes back to the realization of its far greater safety in a solid built-in cupboard—and this may also be the better in looks as well. At first sight the parlor offered no place for a cupboard. It is a room with somewhat less than the average amount of wall space, be- cause of having windows on the north side as well as on the south. Yet none the less we wanted a cupboard there. One corner seemed to offer the only possi- bility, but even this corner was a solid bit of wall, looking very permanent, with a picture on it and the tip tea table sedately in front. FTER all, what the homemaker needs is 4 & practical imagination, and practical imag- ination is a pretty general potential asset. Any of us should possess it; it is nothing essentially extraordinary. One of the greatest encourage- ments to the ambitious homemaker lies, rightly considered, in Shakespeare’s delinea- tion of the homely Quince and Bottom, Snug and Flute, for these extremely ordinary men (to say the least!) pictured to themselves, at will, a wall present or a wall absent! Well, all we needed to do in planning for the cup- board was to picture a wall absent! The possible location was a space four feet wide between the fireplace and the front wall of the room; and the space was recessed two feet from the rectangle of the room. And the natural thing to do was to build the cupboard right there, within the walls, for the cupboard could be deep enough for nine-inch shelves and still leave the proportions of the room unaltered and the recess undestroyed. We were in possession of a charming old fanlight, picked up a year before in the garret of a famous house in old Annapolis. We al- ways feel an impulse to acquire such a fine old fragment, even though, as in this case, there is nothing but a nebulous idea as to its possible Well, here came the for it was precisely the thing to top a china cupboard. The curving line of the top of the fanlight was adjusted to the new position by a rounded casing, cut out of a white-pine board. There needed to be pilasters down the sides, filling the space between the enclosing walls and the glass doors. The pilasters are each eight and one-half inches wide, and they are grooved to harmonize with other woodwork in the room. Simply contrived capitals stand at their top. Two doors seemed very much more desirable than one, not only on the score of good looks, use use but because with two doors it is easier to get at the china. The panes of glass are eight by ten inches, the precise size being determined by the lines of the fanlight. ACH of the shelves is exactly behind a crossbar of the sash; and this clever old- time idea came to us from studying an old

corner cupboard to see just what there was | about its simple lines that was so attractive. This placing of shelves obviates a super- abundance of straight lines, and at the same time has everything on the shelves showing to the best advantage behind unobstructed glass. The door frames are as slender as possible compatible with sufficient strength—they are two inches wide except at the bottom, where they are eight inches deep. This slenderness is with the object of impeding the view as | little as may be. It would be very unsatis- factory to have an expanse of wood down the middle of a china closet. For neatness and firmness, and to render the cupboard more dust-proof, the doors are rabbeted. The shelves, following an admirable and old design, are curved in broad scallops, taking away any possible rigidity of aspect and offer- ing graceful places for the various objects. A keystone was needed as a finish for the | center of the arch, above the fanlight, and for | this we used a little carved classic urn, ac- quired for a few pennies in ancient Hildesheim two or three months before. It is of mahogany, but was painted white like the rest of the woodwork. <A bit of wood of actual keystone shape could have been fashioned by the car- penter, but it somehow added, in our eyes, to the general interest of it all, to use a bit of wood acquired in an interesting place in an interesting way. There are always oppor- tunities to follow out one’s individual fancies, whatever the particular line may happen to | be. For ourselves, our fancy runs to the old, and so it adds to the pleasure of having this | new-made cupboard, that the fanlight comes from Annapolis, the keystone from Hildesheim, the brass door-handles from an old house in Philadelphia, and the shape of the shelves cut quirklike from the design of the long-past cabinet-maker who built the shelves of Stenton. ND now, in some degree from satisfaction in the thing personally planned and achieved—a_ satisfaction that every home- maker should be justified in feeling—but not nearly so much from this minor and personal reason as from the real pleasure that comes from having prized treasures fitly housed we love to look at the old china within this glass-fronted, glass-arched cupboard. Charm- ing things that have come down out of a charming past are worthy of the best that can be done for them; the softly blended colors, the fine old shapes, deserve and reward one’s care. But we do not speak of this as meaning that a cupboard should be only for old china; it may be for whatever one’s individual fancy, one’s individual tastes, desires, likings, demand. And, whatever the use to which such a cup- board is put. it stands for itself as an essential part of the house structure. With most people actual cost is a very necessary and practical consideration; and it cannot be said, or expected, that a really elaborate cupboard can be built into a house for the small expense of cupboarding a door- way or the still smaller expense of making a cupboard in the side of a chimney-breast. And yet, the total cost came very, very far below what a cabinet or cupboard of anything approaching the capacity of this, and of a style at all desirable, would have cost if pur- chased at a furniture shop. And the result is so much better than that of a piece of furni- | ture! Here are the actual figures: One pair of doors 7 Two pilasters 1.50 Wood for shelving 2 Painting (three coats, outside and in wR and glazing 4.35 Oe 1.15 Fanlight. . . 1.00 Keystone. . . 12 Old brass knobs ; : 00 Carpenter's time. 12.00 $29.64 And now, we can only say that these dif- ferent cupboards, described out of actual personal experience, are not meant to be literally copied; they are merely to show what two people, under certain conditions, did to meet and satisfy certain homemaking wants, and they are described in the hope that, al- though they shall not be literally copied, they may serve as encouragement to other home- makers, under other conditions, to accomplish something still better and more satisfactory. [N this Bazar department two recognized authorities will help The Bazar Family freely and gladly. Es- pecially in modernizing old houses—making them | healthy, comfortable, and sightly—and in beautifying houses and grounds will the advice of Mr. and Mrs Shackleton be of great practical value and interest | (Questions ‘and Suggestions about Gardening Shrubbery Mary.—A mass of shrubbery is always more effective than bushes scattered here and there over a lawn. I would advise some lilacs for the background in your southeast corner, several forsythia, some syringa and deutzia in front of them, and for later blossoming some hydrangeas. Both the pink and white weigelias are beautiful, too, and may be planted safely with the yellow forsythia, be- cause they blossom after that is gone. A row of altheas will be beautiful beside the drive- way, as you suggest. The rhododendrons will thrive on the north side of the house with ferns in front of them, or under the shade of the trees on the south side. It is very easy to transplant them from the woods, if they grow near you. It is not as easy, however, to transplant the mountain laurel. Spring Bulbs Puzztep.—It is true that some people do take up their bulbs every year after the foliage | has ripened, but that is not natural, and con- sequently not the best way. It is well to raise them every three years and, after en- riching the soil, to reset them; but it should not be done every year. The old, yellow foliage is unsightly, but it must not be cut off. If the bulbs are to grow and multiply the foliage must be allowed to ripen and die down of itself. You can plant other flowers all around the bulbs, if care is taken, without disturbing them in the least, and have a bed constantly full of bloom through the season. The bulbs should have been planted in October or November. Buying Perennial Plants Fortunately it is possible to buy the plants we have not taken the trouble to raise our- selves—those that must be started the year before they blossom. It is always tiresome to work so far ahead, and, frequently, even when it has been done, not enough plants have developed to fill the required spaces. Both perennial and biennial plants may be bought from the seed men at very reasonable prices, averaging fifteen cents each, and at an even lower price by the dozen for ordinary plants. They should be set out immediately upon their arrival, without allowing the roots t dry. It is wise to send the order in early, and ask that they be sent on a certain day early in April. Then the beds will be ready for them and they need not dry out. In many of the seed catalogues dates are given when these plants and others will be ready for ship- ment. The 15th of April is the usual date. Raising Perennials Seeds for perennials should be planted be- tween the first and the middle of April. By the middle of July they will be ready for transplanting. They should be put into the earth with some fertilizer and plenty of water, about five inches apart. In October they are to be transplanted for the last time to their permanent homes. Among the most satisfy- ing perennials are delphiniums or larkspurs, hollyhocks, chrysanthemums (the small, hardy ones), columbines, sweet-williams, pinks, iris, phlox, monkshood, peonies, ete. Biennials Biennials are planted, transplanted, etc., at the same time as the perennials. Some of the best ones are foxgloves, Canterbury bells, etc. Foxgloves seed themselves, so that when once started in a garden they may be looked upon as permanent, although the small seed- lings will need transplanting each year. Dahlias The old-fashioned dahlia, scorned for so many years, has now become the center of interest in the gardening world. Competition rages hot to see who can raise the most beauti- ful ones. There are more and more varieties on the market each season. They are ver) easily raised, and require very little care. Field- grown roots are bought. They should be set out about the third week in April, and will soon require staking. They will last until fall, and are extremely satisfactory for pick- ing. The colors are lovely. The tuberous roots are taken up in the fall and stored in the cellar. way, and increase very rapidly. The colors of these are wonderfully beautiful and they Galdiolus bulbs are kept in the same | come at a season when other flowers are pass- | ing away.

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more there S for rher, utzia some vhite ’ be be- row rive- will with le of PaSY they r, to , do lage ‘on- I to en- ul age If age of ind ing thy Ibs or ns ‘Physical Culture | for the Face ind CARE OF THE Hair te M J ' facialex- ; ercises \ do for the face what my exercises for the body have done for the health and figures of 60,000 | women. The results | are quick and marvelous. Insix toten | minutes a day you can do more with these exercises at home than massage will accomplish in an hour a day ina beauty parlor.” —Susanna Cocroft. Miss Cocroft has prepared the instructions for this course. Those know her | national—yes international—reputation as a restorer of health and youth, will be as pleased to hear of this new feature in her work as they will be certain that it will pro- recisely the results she claims for it who duce Wrinkles Sagging Facial Muscles Double Chins Flabby and Thin Neck Tired Eyes Crows Feet Pimples Pouches beneath the eyes Sunken Cheeks Thin or Oily Hair Tender Inflamed Feet Sallow, Discolored or Freckled Skins and many other blemishes are relieved by the muscles and bringing a invigorating | more nourishing blood to the parts affected. The expression is invigorated, the skin becomes firm, smooth and clear, the hair glossy and abundant, and our pupils look ten years younger. A Woman Is as Old As She Looks The direction of this work is in the hands of her nieces, Miss Grace L. Ballack and Miss Mildred A. Albee, whose association with Miss Cocroft for many 1as adequately qualified them to assume the of thisdepartment of Miss Cocroft's culture tr aining Write booklet | Grace-Mildred Culture Course | | 624 Michigan Ave., Dept. 4, CHICAGO | aa Beauty and the Jacobin By BOOTH TARKINGTON Here is a plot that reveals an in- for our Free to-day. genuity worthy of a French drama- tist; character is portrayed through dialogue with a dazzling cleverness that makes us think of Dumas—but the of the author’s own genius—his American sense of always traits humor and genuine, untheatric feel- ing—-are the most potent factors in the of this Tarkington tale. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.00 net HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK Instant Bunion Relief It At My Expense Don't send me one cent—just let rove it to you as I have done for ¥ 2 others in the last six months. claim to have the most successful remedy for bunions ever made and I Want you to Jet me send you a treat- ment Free, entirely at my expense. I don’t care how many so-called cures, or shields or pads you ever tried with- out success—I don’t care howdisgusted you are with them all—you have not tried my remedy and I have such absolute confidence in it that oing to_send you a treatment ab- solutely FREE. It isa wonderful yet simple home remedy which re slieves you almost instantly of the pain; it removes the cause of the bunion and thus the ugly deformity disappears— all this while you are wearing tighter shoes than ever. Just send your name and address and tre: ane nt Will be sent you promptly in plain sealed envelope. FOOT REMEDY CO. 3518 W. 26th St. Chicago charm characteristic ALL HAIR ON FACE AND ARMS permanently destroyed, guarantee Mme. Julian’s specific has stood the test 38 years. Absolutely harmless. No electricity, poison, pain. Protected by law. MME. JULIAN, 16 West 47th St New York City tu TAMMER e- ad for my 200 page book with Free Trial m explaining methods for Home Cure. is tablished 15 years. Reputation world-wide. G. A. LEWIS, 15 Adelaide St., Detroit, Mich. | | } | | | Twelfth Article in The Bazar Beauty and Health Series Beautifying the Baby By Marie Montaigne HE dower of feminine beauty contributes so much to the pleasure of the possessor and of the world that there seems little excuse for the mother who neglects to bestow it upon her baby in such measure as may be possible. For, be it understood, beauty is not always the caprice of nature; often it is the result of intelligently tended growth. An infant is as soft and plastic as fresh clay and can be molded into almost any form its mother wills. In the beginning of babyhood, when the little one splashes about in its bath, its back should be carefully supported to make it grow straight and strong. Its little arms should not be constantly drawn upward, as this will induce the shoulders to grow high and ungrace- ful. Aside from the beauty of sloping lines, it is on record that consumptives are invariably high-shouldered and that persons with sloping shoulders rarely contract tuberculosis of the lungs. Protruding ears may be pressed back Then, too, young parents are apt to en- courage a child to stand alone and walk before the little legs are strong enough to support the body’s weight. This causes bow-legs, with lack of grace in poise and walk later on. A child’s legs should be allowed to exercise in play. Even the tiny baby should have free- dom to kick, and this exercise may be supple- mented by massage upward from the ankles to strengthen the muscles more rapidly. IGHT massage from the base of the hand over the wrist will tend to make it round, while each finger end may be gently pressed on both sides of the nail and a little downward to help the fingers to grow tapering. Then, too, while tiny ‘hands are developing, it is not just to the girl baby to let her constantly grasp and pull on objects that will broaden her palms. More mouths have been spoiled by the errors If the hair is thin, vaseline or castor oil may be rubbed into the roots of heedless mothers than by anything clse, although the mouth is so expressive of character that it cannot be wholly made or marred in infancy. Sucking the thumb, for instance, injures the shape not only of the lips, but of the gums as well, and so of teeth that come later; and allowing a baby to stretch its lips over an object too large for them is a practice as common as it is injurious. Later on a child’s teeth should be watched over by den- tists until all the milk teeth have been properly shed and permanent ones take their place in eyen rows. Even first teeth require the care of a soft toothbrush and sometimes need filling to keep teeth and gums healthy. HILE certain inherited facial charac- teristics can never be wholly eradicated, they can be restrained within pleasing lines by ‘early attention. Snub and hollow-bridged noses may be pressed upward at the bridge and together at the end to cultivate better lines, and protruding ears may be pressed daily against the head to make them lie flat. Such precau- tions occupy but a moment of time and mean much in the way of preserving and building sym- metrical features. Just a little thought will con- vince one that the usual careless meth- od of washing a child’s face cannot fail to prove inju- rious to the soft little features, be- side causing the lit- tle one to squint its eyes and screw up its face in pain. Gen- tleness in washing baby’s face has much to do with its facial loveliness later on. Another cruelty which heedless moth- ers and nurses prac- tise is to allow a baby to ery beyond the point whencrying serves to call attention to its needs. When a fretful note comes into baby’s cry it means tired nerves. This condition is liable to bring on a train of ills, as well as a peevish temper later on, and infant eyes subjected to the strain of continued wailing are apt to grow ““pop-eyed,” as the saying is, and far from beautiful. ABY’S eyelashes and eyebrows need their share of care, too, for both are lovely when properly developed. The should be bathed in distilled or rain water to which a little solution of boric acid has been added. This keeps the eyelids healthy and the lashes clean. Eyebrows are seldom well arched or curved at the outer ends, but it is the simplest possible thing to pinch the brows together so that they make a thin curved line instead of growing scraggy and bushy, and also to extend the line of a short eyebrow by means of some good hair tonic. The line mas- saged for this purpose should be narrow as a pencil point and curved just over the outer bone of the socket. It is often claimed that baby’s first hair requires great care to insure a good (Continued on page 144) eyes 143 You Can Weigh Exactly What You Should Weigh You can be sound in body and mind; efficient, well poised, =— a and You Can Be Well I have helped 60,- 000 of the most re- fined, intellectual women of Americato regain health and good figures and have taught them how to keep well. Why not you? You are busy, but you can give me a few minutes a day in the privacy of your own room to following scientific, hygienic principles of health, pre- scribed to suit your in- dividual needs. I have Reduced the Weight of 30,000 women and have Increased theWeight of as many more. No Drugs—No N Medicines My work has grown in favor because results are quick, natural and permanent, and because they are scientific and appeal to common sense. You can Be Well so that everyone with whom youcome in contact is permeated with your strong spirit; your wholesome personality — feels better in body and mind for your very presence. Judge what I can do for you by what I have done for others: Ly teaching deep breathing and correct poise, so that each vital organ is in its proper place, and by strengthening the nerves and muscles to these vital organs, I have enabled each to do the work Nature intended, thus building up the strength and vitality by Nature's own means. The best physicians are my friends — their wives and daughters are my pupils—the medi- cal magazines advertise my work. Be Attractive—well groomed. Youcan Improve Your Figure —:n other words be your best self, a I want to help every woman to realize that her health lies, to a degree, in her own hands, and that she can reach her ideal in figure and poise. I have published a free booklet showing how to stand and walk correctly and giving other information of vital interest to women. Write for it and I will also tell you about my work. If you are perfectly well ana your figure is just what you wish, you may be able to 1elp a dear friend—at least you will help me by your interest in this great movement for greater culture, refinement and beauty in woman. Call on me when in Chicago. I am at my desk from 8 to 5 o’clock. Sit down and write me NOW. Don’t wait— you may forget it. I have hada wonderful experience and I should like to tell you about it Susanna Cocroft Dept.24 624 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago Miss Cocroftisacollegebred woman. She is the recognized authority upon the scientific care of the health and figure of woman, fr THE FACE PHYSICAL CULTURE Exercise Restores Youthful Expression and Beauty When the skin and muscles of the face lose their elasticity, the face sags all out of shape, nose to mouth lines, lines about eyes, mouth and forehead, and double chin appear, and tissues become flabby. ‘The skin of the neck looks withered and yellow and deep lines form, d Muscle to the skin It is tem of facial exerci by re ticity toring elas rks these ma f age lual in lump face or nec Massage, t} treatments canne cl ell and they cas Lb These deep muscles mus re or preser thiul appearance My ne k I kxercise’’ fully describes my system It t } young xay enhance and preserve and how mat me ay facial charm. No one is too old to benefit Write for muy book toc FREE, Dept. H 3, 417 S. Dearborm Street, CHICAGO WINTER WINDS with their chilling, marring roughening breath leave no trace on the fair face guarded by LABLACHE. It preserves a fine complexion, restores one that has faded. Invisible, adherent, delicately fra- grant. Always a delight to women of refinement. Refuse Substitutes They may be dangerous, Flesh, White. PinkorCream 56c. a box of druggists or by mai. Over two million boxes told annually. Send 10 cents for a sample box. BEN. LEVY CO., Prench Perfumers, Dept.I, 125 Kingston &+., Bostoa. ates. } HUMAN HAIR (entre. to order, by expert hair- workers; parcel post, no extra charge. Combings made up. TANNERT HAIR Putnam Ave. at Broadway, EMPORIUM Brooklyn, N. ¥.

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Every cow in | every herd is regu- larly examined by our must be absolutely healthy |} | | | trained veterinarians, and | in every respect before the | | | | | milk is used in the manu- facture of BRAND Co ED MILK | THE ORIGINAL All herds are well pastured, housed in scientifically sanitary barns, and prop- erly fed—all of which insures pure, rich milk from which Eagle Brand is made. Send for “Where Cleanliness Reigns Supreme,” | “My Biography,” a book for babies, orden’s Recipes. | BORDEN’S CONDENSED MILK CO. | “Leaders of Quality”’ a - —— , pen, oar | soa | ll eee | i ae ep il HII] Re ss y : . oy i MENNEN’ “FOR MINE” & 7 Borated Taleum Mennen’s Powder, keeps my skin in healthy condition, ~ vw Trade Mark Sample Box for 4c. stamp, GERHARD MENNEN CO Newark, N. J CHILDREN’S DRESSES INFANTS’ LAYETTES Stamped ready to embroider and make up, no other pattern being necessary. Dresses of Linen, Repp, Poplin, Bat- > @? iste, Chambray and Nainsook, Sizes 6 months to 12 years. Stamped only, $1.50 up. Special prices for making and em roidering if de ired. MAIL ORDERS FILLED HURM ART SHOP 277 Fifth Avenue New York Maternity Dress made in one piece, self-exp in all the latest styles and fabrics. Combine comfort and "elegance for every occasion. Dresses, Coats, Suits, Waists, Skirts, Negligees, Corsete, Underwear, Infante’ J Layettes ‘ilustrated b r ree up ok A LANE ‘BRY ANT, 25 West 38th St., NEW YORK ‘ . H ” “Home-Making,theNew Profession Is a 100-pp. ill. booklet—it’s FREE. Home study domestic science courses. For h makers, teachers, and for well-paid positions. Am. Schoo! of Home Economics, 509 W. 69th St., Chicago, Lil, | restless night or two. Preventing Indigestion in Infants By Marianna Wheeler | Former Superintendent Babies’ EW mothers realize how much it means to the baby to give him a really good | start in life. There always may be inherited tendencies to overcome, and these are enough to battle against without adding bad habits of nursing and training to handicap the little one still further. It should be remembered that it will take three or four weeks of correct dieting to over- come the disastrous effects of one week of poor feeding. How much easier it is, then, to start right from the very first day of the baby’s life. The first baby usually has a worse start than the succeeding children; the mother has to experiment on the eldest child. But this is hard on the first born and every mother should acquaint herself with the principles of infant feeding and then, when- ever it necessary, should seek addi- tional advice from some one who thoroughly understands babies. It is almost a crime to stumble along alone, or to take advice from other women who mean well but are almost ignorant as the mother herself. The general rules given here apply to breast-fed infants, and may be depended on as a guide by the inexperienced mother. Unless the mother is herself ill with tuber- | culosis, or has some other serious disease, she should at least make an attempt to nurse her baby. Although we have advanced much in our knowledge of infant feeding, we have not, as yet, succeeded in finding any food as good for the human infant as its mother’s milk. | It is therefore the duty of every woman who can do so to nurse her child. The first day of life the baby should be nursed by its mother as soon as she is able to receive him; this first substance secreted is necessary to the child. Every six hours during the first day or two he should be nursed for twenty minutes; there will probably be very little for him to take, but the habit should be formed. Between these nursings he should be given one ounce of pure boiled water from a nursing- bottle. This water should be warm but not hot. He should not given catnip tea, fennel tea, nor any of the various concoctions | advised by our grandmothers; we have ad- vanced far beyond this method of treatment. On the third day, when the milk supply usually comes in abundance, the baby should be nursed every two hours for twenty minutes from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., and once during the night. The time should be counted from the beginning of the nursing period. If the baby is asleep at meal-time he should be waked, and very soon he will learn to wake himself on time. He should be given half an ounce of boiled water in a bottle at least twice daily. This water is needed to flush out the kidneys, and will, taking it thus, teach him to take a rubber nipple well and make weaning much easier when it is time for it. Many advocate giving a breast-fed baby one meal a day of modified milk from the start. This geis the baby’s stomach accustomed to cow’s milk, and also gives the mother a little freedom when neces- | sary. As it grows near the time to wean from the breast, more and more bottle meals may be added gradually, and the baby will not feel the change at all. is she as be HEN the baby is one month old he should be nursed every two and a half | hours for nine meals in twenty-four -hours. When he is two months old he should be nursed every three hours for eight meals in twenty-four hours, and when he three months old seven meals in twenty-four hours are enough. At four months of age six meals are enough, nursing him every three hours from 7 a.M. to 10 p.m., and not at all again until morning. When it is time to change the intervals be- tween meals and to give up the night meals, | there will no doubt be a little crying and a But do not give in on this account. It will take only a short time to train the baby into his new habits now, but if you allow bad habits to form it will take 1s Hospital, New York City: author of “The Baby; His Care and Training” weeks of training to undo the mischief you have wrought. The three-hour schedule can usually be maintained until the baby is ten months old, then a four-hour interval should be commenced and five meals in twenty-four hours allowed. This should be kept up until the baby is weaned at one year of age. In order to have a good milk supply for her baby, the nursing mother must be regular in her own habits, she must take some out- door exercise each day, get all the sleep she can at night, and rest a little while in the day- time if possible. She must eat nourishing and easily digested food and avoid very sour fruits, cabbage, and tomatoes, and anything she usually has difficulty in digesting. She must not drink tea and coffee to excess. One weak cup of each a day is quite enough. Milk, cocoa, and gruels of yellow cornmeal and oatmeal make good milk for the baby, and the mother should take these with her meals, or if her milk supply is inclined to be scant she should also take a cup or bowlful of one of these beverages between meals and on retiring at night. The yellow cornmeal gruel made thin and well salted is best of all. A mother who nurses her infant should never give way to strong emotions. An out- burst of anger will usually result in an attack of colic for the baby. If she is inclined to be nervous she must exert every bit of self- control of which she is capable for the baby’s sake. It is surprising to see how much we can do in this respect when it is absolutely necessary. Many mothers who have always been considered nervous in the extreme have so far conquered the tendency that by the time the baby is five or six months old the mother has entirely forgotten that she was ever ner- vous, and a much happier household:is the result. NURSING baby should never sleep with his mother; he should have a crib by himself from the beginning. Very bad habits of night nursing are contracted if the baby sleeps in the same bed with his mother. If a nursing baby has attacks of colic and his movements show undigested food, then the mother should have her milk tested by her doctor, if possible, to find out which element in it is at fault. Often her own diet or method of life can be so changed that the baby will be much better. The baby may be given one ounce of boiled water, or in some cases one ounce of barley water, just before each meal; this often helps digest the milk. He may also be kept at the breast fifteen or ten minutes in place of twenty, and the interval between meals | may be made a little longer. When the baby vomits often, all the above things should be tried also. It is not a sign of health for a nursing baby to throw up his food, as so many thought i in times long past. If he vomits, some- thing is wreng and it must be found out and righted. If it is allowed to continue, chronic indigestion may be the result. If a nursing baby is constipated he will be very uncomfortable, and it must not be allowed to continue. If the. mother will eat muffins made of bran, it will sometimes benefit both mother and child. If this is not enough try giving the baby one teaspoonful of pure olive oil every morning. Orange juice, diluted at first with a little water, may be given after the baby is four months old; oatmeal gruel may be tried, either one ounce just before a nursing or else as the diluent of the modified milk for the one bottle meal the baby gets. Training the baby to use a small chamber in one’s lap is of great importance in preventing and overcoming constipation. This should be started when the baby is four weeks old. Never make the mistake of giving castor oil for constipation; it only makes a bad matter much worse. EVER give medicines for this trouble until after everything else has been faith- fully tried; even an enema or a soap stick is (Continued on page 146) DS EE | 29 Is the “Society Woman a Useless Person? Continued from page 118) great many cases the unequal struggle has so depleted the mother’s vitality that she js unable to nurse her child, and milk must be obtained from a dealer. The milk is procured and the baby is fed. One, two, three days, perhaps a week or even ten days, and the struggle is over; the baby is dead and the map-maker puts another black dot on the tenement death-rate map. No other problem of civic administration | has ever been more clearly presented as within | woman’s province. In 1910, after the success of the “Milk Station” had been proven, the city of New York made appropriation for fifteen stations. In 1911 there was made an appropriation for fifty-five stations. prepared by the committee show that infant mortality for the year 1911 stood at 28 per | cent. against an average for the preceding | ten years of 33.8 per cent. This low rate speaks eloquently for the work and demon- strates its efficiency, because the city has been growing greatly and also because weather Tables | conditions during the summer months of 1911 | were particularly trying. These milk stations were placed at proper points in the congested districts. Their fronts were painted blue so as to be easily recognizable. Signs were printed in many languages. HE preparation of the mentality of women through the years that have passed has been thorough. From the indifference of heart of the Roman woman and the woman of the East, from the weakness of the dreamer of the Middle Ages, from the hardihood and bravery of the New World pioneer, from the loyalty and gentleness of the women of the Northland and Southland in the Civil War, there has grown the woman of to-day. She has emerged from her position of semi- obscurity into the arena of real activity, bringing with her intuition, energy, and real courage. And some of the women in public work have brought with them great executive ability. It may be said of the “society woman” of to-day that she is a distinct factor for good because she cannot possibly be moved by any impulse of personal gain. The element of self- advancement is eliminated from her work. She works generally for others and not for her- self. She does not wish public position; does not strive for wealth. She is a voluntary she | public servant, and the public is fast awaken- | ing to the unselfishness of her position. Beautifying the Baby (Continued from page 143) after-growth, but a clean scalp is sufficient for the down that covers the tiny head, and it may be brushed and washed backward if a mother wants her little one to have curly hair. A few years later the clean scalp should be stimulated by constant brushing to make the hair soft and glossy, and, if it is thin, vaseline or castor oil may be gently rubbed into the roots. ITH these precautions, and such moder- ate massage, rolling about, and as much swinging of the body by feet and hands as baby Fel ~* ve F Moderate massage is good can stand, a little one should grow strong, healthy, and beautiful. But it must be given sufficient fresh air and must not have its spine and nervous system injured by being made to sit up in a go-cart before its bones and muscles are strong enough.

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has so | she js | ust he | bcured day Ss, id the | | id the | n the | ration | within | 8 per | eding | rate | mon- | has ather | 1911 tions | ested | le so | were | men has 4 of | man mer and the | the Var, lay. ‘mi- ‘ity, real blic | tive ” of | ood | any | elf- | rk, | 1er- she ary en- Pre Our Two Greatest Bugbears---Fear and Worry (Continued from page 109) and welcome old age is to come to it through the avenues of the right mental habits of youth and middle age. | of him who said: “For the thing which I | greatly feared is come upon me, and _ that which I was afraid of is come unto me.” It would seem almost better that a certain percentage of the things we worry about do come upon us or come about—that they do their worst and be done with it, as we say— rather than that we remain continual slaves to the hosts of things that we fear may come and that we ceaselessly worry about. But the interesting part is that hardly any of these things ever do come. Even the re- membrance and the knowledge of this fact do not seem to be able to teach us the folly and the utter uselessness of these habits. How many bridges we cross mentally that we eventually find we never do have to cross really at all! Physical Weakness Comes Too E would not only be surprised, but as- tounded, if we really knew the number of people who have grown habitually timid in their minds and spirits, and whose bodies have been reduced to a low and sluggish tone through these agencies that we are considering. The number who are living way “below par,” so to speak, both mentally and physically, through them, is simply enormous. In addi- tion to this general lowering of practically all | bodily functions and powers, they in thou- | sands of cases localize their effects in specific ailments and diseases, according to the peculiar native weaknesses of the one in | whose life they gain a foothold. The law of correspondence is wonderfully exact in its | workings. The number of stomach and digestive dis- orders that are brought about through these | channels is simply legion. There are but few people who have at any period in their lives given a place to them who cannot testify to their effects along this particular line. Think also of the vast company of those whose ner- yous breakdown or whose generally nerve- depleted condition is primarily, if not entirely, due to this cause. Their pernicious effects also upon full, deep breathing, which result sometimes in pulmonary troubles, and which _/ways bring about a general lowering of the tone of the system, are also thoroughly well known. The condition of the blood deter- mines to a great extent the condition of the entire physical organism, and there is nothing that will poison and lower its tone more quick- ly than to rob it of the oxygen that it must have in abundance for the fullest degree of efficiency and bealth. Thus the entire system becomes depleted. Mind and body are con- tinually acting and reacting upon one another. We must never forget that body helps mind the same as mind builds body. This general low tone and depleted condi- tion in turn leads, and most naturally, to gloominess and to the habit of looking on the dark side of things generally, which robs life of the best there is in it for oneself, and in turn makes us disagreeable, unwelcome, and in time a positive hindrance to all with whom we come in contact. All are in time affected thereby. Little do we actually understand the effects of our prevailing mental and emo- tional states upon others as well as the effects of those of others upon ouiselves. We would probably be much more careful how we live in our thought-world if we did understand this better. This habit grows with increasing years, and through it the best in life is to be lost. There is nothing quite so pleasure-bringing and wel- come as an old age that is bright and cheerful, and that has preserved its youthful interest in the best things in life, that is responsible in turn for its attaining to its present state. As the way we have lived our yesterdays has determined for us our to-day, so the way we are living our to-day is determining for us, and with absolute precision, our to-morrow. There is one thing we can always rest assured of—the prevailing mental states and emotions at thirty-five and forty-five will have stamped their influences and will have determined the prevailing conditions in any life at fifty-five and sixty-five. The only way to come into a happy, well-balanced, and therefore joyous Billy The Consciousness of God EAR and lack of faith go hand in hand. The one is born of the other. I do not believe one can be a Christian who lives in the slavery, or even to any appreciable degree under the influence of fear or of worry. Why? Jesus taught the All-ness of God. God is imminent as well as transcendent. If one then truly follow Him he can find no room for either fear or worry. I do not believe that any one can be a real follower of any religion who allows these forces to find a place in his or her life. The great underlying principle, indeed, the sum and substance of all religion is—the consciousness of God in the soul-of man. If we actually live in this consciousness, if we | open ourselves so that this divine guidance and power can work in and through us, what place is there for either fear or worry? Only good can come to such a life. Why bother ourselves, then, about those things that cannot come? There has been probably no truer statement ever given utterance to in the world’s history, and none containing greater hope or strength for each individual life that places itself suf- ficiently in position fully to know its truth, than: “Thou wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on Thee.” The law will never fail him who trusts himself fully to it. It is the half-hearted fearing, vacillating, trusting that always has brought and will bring unsatisfactory results. There is a duty of bravery the same as there is a bravery many times in duty. It’s the duty, and it should be the pleasure, of each while here to think bravely and to live bravely straight through to the end. It’s the manly and the womanly thing to do—and besides, it pays. To take captive the best things in life we must proceed always through the channel of brave, intrepid thought. It was Maeter- | linck who said: “The happiest man is he who best understands his happiness, and he who understands it best is he who knows pro- foundly that his happiness is only divided from sorrow by a lofty, unwearying, humane and courageous view of life.” The Germs of Happiness HE way we approach the daily problems of life will in practically every case de- termine their outcome. We will then inocu- late our minds with the germs of happiness: it is just as easy, when we get the habit, as to have them inoculated with the germs of fear or worry or discontent—and the results are always better. Why then will we think of those things that are unpleasant? As it will do us no good in any way, why then cripple our thoughts and thereby our energies when by it there is nothing to be gained, but, on the contrary, everything to be lost? Some one has said: “The first step toward happiness is to determine to be happy.” To get up each morning determined to be happy, to take anew this attitude of mind whenever the dark or doleful thought presents itself, is to set our own conditions to the events of each day. It is thus that we condition circum- stances instead of allowing ourselves to be conditioned by them. Wise is he who determines early to do away with the companionship of these two great filchers of the best there is in life. To deter- mine resolutely to bid good-by to fear and worry, opening all doors and windows to hope and faith and courage, and then coupling rightly directed effort with this, will work a complete revolution in any life. To take the attitude of cheerfulness, looking always on the bright side of things, determined to hold one- self in an optimistic, never-down-in-the-mouth, but courage-always-up attitude of mind and . heart, is to set into operation those silent, subtle forces that will be working continually along the lines we are going. It is not, therefore, What are the conditions in any life?—but how one meets the conditions that are found there, that determines one’s real stamina and worth, and that determines one’s real success or failure. and the Mermaid (Continued from page 127) “Oh, save me—he’s coming,” gasped Billy, who could not control his fear, for the whale simply looked tremendous when he was near; and when he heard Billy’s cry he opened his mouth wide enough to wallow a house and grinned with amuse- ment. “Come along! Hurry up!” cried the mer- maid, who could move as quickly as a fish in the water; and as the whale almost touched Billy on the shoulder she gave such a gurgle of laughter that Billy forgot to be frightened, but just laughed with glee, and in a short time he was as friendly as possible with the whole whale tribe. “Time’s up!”’ cried the mermaid, sud- lenly leaping up on to the floor of polisied eaweed again. “In another minute I | shall be late,” and she caught him by tle hand and they raced together up the gold staircase. “Good -by, dear Billy,” she cried, as they stood on the last step, and she held up her pretty tiny face for a kiss. “‘Good - by,” he said, pressing his cheek against hers for a minute. “It’s been lovely. May I come again?” he asked, shyly, trying hard to wink away the tears that would come at the thought of leaving the mermaid; but she had already dis- appeared, and the next moment he dropped with a jerk on to the beach where the tide had washed away the top of the beautiful wedding cake he had made, and he sat for a moment ‘staring across the water. But the tide was too high for him to see the top of the rock that led to the sea caves. How many baby carriages do you want to buy? large cushion tires and adjust to slip under seat of auto, buggy or train. Sidway Exclusive Features wine Fabrikoid Leather. A special grade xclusively for us, and guaranteed against tear ing, fauirg or peeling by us and by the E. 1. Du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., sole makers of Fabrikoid Adjustable Cradle Spring Sidway Real Rubber Tires Write to-day for name of local dealer and /ree book/et showing carriag wn colors, and containing many valuable hints for the young mother, weight chart, etc. SIDWAY MERCANTILE CO. Re CI, The Maker’s Confidence Proves the Quality The only man who knows how long a baby carriage will last is the maker You cannot afford to buy a carriage the manufacturer won't guarantee. Sidway Collapsible Baby- Carriages are Guaranteed for Two Years One sidway is enough. First: We will replace free of charge or transportation expense any parts that wear out or break within two years. Second: The Sidway makes unnecessary different carriages for home and travel. The roomy interior, le spring provide comfort rivalled only by mother’s arms. It folds into one-seventh the space of a stationery carriage LOCAL DEALERS: Write for trade proposition on the first line of carriages that assures your profit by eliminating ‘‘come backs."" 1034 14th St. - - - Elkhart, Ind. A Sidway Guaran- teed Carriage Folded Can be obtained at all leading retail stores ra WITHO Housekeepers work too hard. binding, grinding labor that ages a woman before her time furrowing faces, curving backs and shriveling muscles Get a“ JEWEL" Suction Sweeper and * clean house with the least eflort and clean it cleaner than ever before Suction Sweeper Halve Your . Work UT SHIRK ** Cleaning House is The ‘‘ JEWFEI."* Suction Sweeper contains a stout canvas bag. As you push the sweeper lightly over the floor, a// ver is drawn up into the bag. When full, simply detach, empty and replace. While you sweep, no dust “‘flies’’ and “‘settles"'--none can escape the ** pull-pull-pull '" of the suction—no crack, crevice, or cur tain can harbor hidden dust. The “ JEWEL" drags it up and out. And Yet—?/ rus as easy as a doll’s carriage Made with black enameled metal top ‘body in ebony finish) or wood top (‘natural oak or mahogany finish throughout) Lasts a lifetime Strongly constructed and finely finished. We make them to sell at all prices; six different grades Free for a postcard, Mrs. House keeper,—our fascinating booklet “An Enemy To Dust General Appliance Factory, Inc. 1361 Main Street Marinette, Wis., U.S.A. We Want Selling Representa- tives for restricted Bewel] Helping School Children By ELSA DENISON Of the New York Bureau of Municipal Research “Helping School Children’ i unique in several respects: it gives hitherto unsought information con- cerning all parts of the country and all kinds of contact with schools; to its preparation have contributed 350 city and state superintendents of in- struction and 650 business men, club women, physicians, dentists, minis- ters, and editors. It suggests numerous kinds of profitable activity for thousands of college graduates and other citizens who have a super-interest in public welfare; bit illuminates from many angles the intimate connection of pub- lic schools with two other vast fields —a private giving for public purposes and general government efficiency. Its message and its facts are needed wherever there is a public school or a civic organization. All social work- ers, school superintendents, lawyers, ministers, editors, and public-spirited women will welcome this record of practical interest shown by individ- uals and organized outsiders in their local public schools. Mlustrated. Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1.40 net HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK | efer it.—Is not gr E bottles 50c., Cold A. S. Relieves at once, quickly heals, makes clear, velvety skin. Complexions are greatly improved by its use. Soothes infants’ skin troubles. Men who shave ; cannot grow hair; absolutely harmless. At all dealers. eam 25c. Write for Free Sample Gottie and Tube. Always use HINDS "%ii5:8” cod ; and HINDS 16 West Street, Portland, Maine.

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* The Pneumatié Dress Form © T’S YOU when inflated inside your fitted 5 lining. The air chamber is constructed of non- elastic, scientifically air - proofed cloth, moulded into a general semblance of the female form, including the hips. -* It will last many years in any climate. To make it assume your form, you simply place Pneu Form inside your fitted waist lining, inflate it by blow- ing gently into the mouthpiece—and in less than a minute before you stands YOU, with looking-glass fidelity. The standard rod regulates to making and draping of skirts, dresses and gowns. A convenient thumbscrew .» holds it firmly in place where set. With Pneu Form After the standard . — rod is adjusted to the *, © desired height, place pas your petticoat over Pneu Form and then _pro- ceed to make and drape your skirt, you can study at lei- sure the. lines and drape of skirts or dresses as * your you stand or sit at ease before your own dress or pneumatic self. gown. With Pneu Form you or your dressmaker can make and complete the most elaborate waist, skirt or gown down to the minutest detail, without a single try-on. When you are through using Pneu Form for the. day, simply deflate it, detach the standard rod and pack it all within its own little box base. Pneu Form can be tucked away under a couch or on a shelf out of the "Flat dwellers" greatly appreciate this feature. Weight complete, 10 pounds. IMPORTANT The same Pneu Form will reproduce any num- ber of figures if ordered a size larger than the largest figure for which it is.to be used. way when not in use. Write for new booklet “F-6 ” giving full description and prices The Pneumatic Form Co. 557 Fifth Avenue Near 46th Street NEW YORK ; Sold by many first-class stores or direct by us Seabed ines se any desired height for the eu Form | Bais Ba A gs Rate 28 ie FRE OTN Fee RS er 5 foe e en Giving a Chinese Luncheon Party (Continued from page 135) and gizzard into three pints of cold water and boil two hours (adding water if it boils away). While the stock is boiling prepare the following: Chop chicken meat into small pieces. Cut up very small one-quarter of a pound of lean pork. Wash and pull off all the stalks of one- quarter pound of Chinese dried mushrooms and soak in lukewarm water for ten minutes. Peel and cut one dozen water chestnuts in thin slices, chop three stalks of celery in fine pieces, and a small white onion (chopped very fine). Take liver and gizzard from stock and chop in small pieces. Return this to the stock, to- gether with the chicken meat and pork (bones, of course, being removed from stock first). Boil all slowly for one hour, then add all the other ingredients, with one tablespoonful of syou, one-quarter teaspoonful of sugar, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and boil for another half-hour. Bor Lor Yeu (Pineapple Fish) 2 lbs. of fish. 1 can of preserved pineapple. 114 teaspoonfuls of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of syou. 1 tablespoonful of quong sang chong (water- chestnut flour). 1 teaspoonful of sugar. Take any firm white fish in season (haddock or cod is usually available). Take out all the bones and rinse in very cold water. Lay in fish-pan and cover with boiling water. Add one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt and simmer slowly for ten minutes. Drain off all water and add two tablespoonfuls of syou, one- quarter teaspoonful of sugar, and one can of preserved pineapple. Return to the fire and simmer ten minutes, then take one table- spoonful of quong sang chong (water chestnut flour), which is used in China the same as corn- starch or flour for thickening soups, gravies, etc. Remove the fish, then stir in the flour, and as soon as it thickens pour all over the fish and serve with rice. Foo Yung Dan (Chinese Omelet with Herbs) 4 eggs. 14 small onion, minced. 2 stalks of celery. 6 lotus seeds. 4 ounces of pork. 1 tablespoonful of syou. V4 teaspoonful of salt. Beat up four eggs. Have ready half a minced onion, two stalks of celery, and six lotus seeds, all chopped small. Chop up four ounces of pork very fine and fry a golden brown. Now add the herbs, with a table- spoonful of syou and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook five minutes. Add the beaten eggs and let the whole cook three minutes without stirring, but taking care to keep from burn- ing. Fold one half over the other and slip on a hot platter. Serve at once. This can also be cooked in four small omelets and served one on top of the other, like pancakes. Use a Chinese omelet bowl in which to serve, as the hot water under the pan, which is a fea- ture of this bowl, keeps the omelet hot and fresh. In fact, a great many of the Chinese serving-vessels come with an under deep plate or bowl, holding hot water. Extra White Chicken Chop Suey 2 lbs. breast of chicken. 2 tablespoonfuls of pure chicken fat. 114 Ibs. fresh white mushrooms. 6 sticks of cele ry. 1 dozen water chestnuts or lotus seeds. 2 white onions. 15 can of bamboo shoots 2 lbs. of bean sprouts. 114 teaspoonfuls of salt. 8 table spoonfuls of syou. Dash of Cayenne. Take the two spoonfuls of pure fresh chicken fat which has been tried out and when it is boiling hot (be careful not to burn) put in the breast of chicken, which has been cut up in small pieces, and fry a light golden brown. Take six sticks of celery and cut in small pieces, one and a half pounds of fresh white mushrooms cut in halves. Cut in thin slices one dozen water chestnuts, or lotus seeds. Chop two white onions and a half a can of bamboo shoots. Add to the chicken, with three tablespoonfuls of syou, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of Cayenne. Cook all to- gether for ten minutes. Add two pounds of bean sprouts and a quarter teaspoonful of sugar. Let all simmer for fifteen minutes. Serve hot with rice. Shu Bok (Fried Squab) 2 squab. Olive or peanut oil. 2 chicken livers. 1 small onion. 2 tablespoonfuls of syou. 1 tablespoonful of Chinese almonds. 14 Ib. of white mushrooms. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 2 yolks of eggs, hard-boiled. Cut the squab in pieces, not too small. Le! the legs be separated, also the wings, and th« rest in four pieces. ‘Singe off all the hair and | feathers, wash in cold water, and wipe dry Dip each piece of squab in dry flour and tos. | in boiling olive oil or peanut oil until it i crisp. Drain off all fat while preparing th: following: Put one tablespoonful of olive oi in the pan and when it is hot place two chicke: livers, chopped very fine, in the fat, add small minced onion, two tablespoonfuls of syou, on: tablespoonful of Chinese small almonds blanched and chopped, one-quarter pound of white mushrooms, chopped fine. Let it fry ten minutes. Then pour into hot dish and place the squab on top, garnished with crumbled hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Fried Bamboo Shoots AKE one can of bamboo shoots drain off all water. Wipe the bamboo shoots dry and slice in long, thin strips. Have ready boiling peanut oil and toss the shoots into this. Cook until crisp. Delicious. Must be eaten hot. Water Chestnut Salad EEL and wash these little nuts, which are almost the size of a large chestnut; slice very thin. To two tablespoonfuls of olive oil add the juice of one onion, one tablespoonful of fine vinegar, one teaspoonful of syou, one teaspoon- ful of salt, one teaspoonful of the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs crushed smooth. over the water chestnuts and sprinkle with fine minced parsley. All of the ingredients used in the recipes given above can be obtained at the Chinese grocery stores, of which there are a great many in all the large American cities. Bean sprouts should be purchased fresh to use the same day of cooking. It would be better to make them at home and it is very simple. Take ordinary white beans or dried lima beans and soak overnight in lukewarm water. In the morning take a large cloth, wet it and lay ona table. Over this spread the beans. The cloth must be kept wet. In a night or two the beans will all have sprouted. Use the sprouts as directed in the chop suey recipe. The quantities used in the recipes are suf- ficient for six people. Always, when possible, use the Chinese teas mentioned above, as they are very fine indeed. The various sweets and desserts can all be obtained canned or boxed in the Chinese stores or any large American-Oriental store. THE article next month will go further into the details of Chinese cooking and will be fully illus- trated. The Bazar will gladly furnish the names of dealers in several cities where readers may obtain articles they cannot get from their own grocers. Write to Sara Bosse, Harper's Bazar, Franklin Square, New York City. Indigestion in Infants (Continued from page 144 better than drugs. If it is absolutely necessary to give something, then let your doctor pre- scribe, and do not attempt to give a patent remedy on your own responsibility. Nursing babies are less apt to have diarrhoea than are bottle-fed children, but this some- times occurs. In such a case all milk should be stopped for twenty-four hours at least, and only boiled water or barley water should be given to the baby. One teaspoonful of castor oil should be given. he may have the barley water first and then be nursed for five, ten, fifteen, and finally | twenty minutes again and the barley wate may be gradually discontinued. If treat- ment is not effectual in twenty-four or forty- eight hours a doctor should be called, as it | is very unsafe to allow it to continue. and | Make a dressing of the following: | al Pour this As the baby improves | | | To tell whether a nvrsing baby is getting | enough food in quantity, he may be weighed | just before he is nursed and then again just after he has been fed; the gain in weight will show the number of ounces he has taken from the breast. To be really normal, a nursing baby should gain four to six ounces each week. He should have one to two regular, well-digested move- ments of the bowels in twenty-four hours, should not throw up his food, and should sleep well at night and the greater part of the time (while he is very young) between meals during the day. As he grows older he will take shorter naps in the daytime, but he should lie happily in his crib and amuse himself and not cry to be taken up all the time. If he acts in this manner he is doing well, and the mother need have no fears that he is developing bad habits or indigestion. MARIANNA WHEELER writes for The Bazar every month instruction for mothers on disease prevention eeping baby well. Questions pertain- ing to .s baby and the mother, like diet, care, and hygiene, are cordially invited. Other questions on kindred subjects, which cannot be treated here, will be answered promptly. Inclosea stamped, self-addressed envelope. Send all letters to Marianna Wheeler, Parper’s Bazar, Franklin Square, New York City |

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@ | } Ps The Bazar’s Fashion Pages. 14) secre. Ne EL: Coat of dark-blue velvet brocaded with | emerald green; blue charmeuse gown , tate ‘* =— a | . «4 -Shelder°. et Hy}

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C 0 So oe Sheldon . The new coat, in velvet, with soutache braid Harper’s : Bazar The Smart Little Separate Coats and From The Bazar’s Paris Correspondent HE separate coat, eagerly accepted from the first, is evidently in for a long run, Its practical qualities spell economy in large letters, as it can be used with several dresses. A black coat, of any length, whether of silk, velvet, or cloth, ean be worn with a draped, floor-long skirt for ceremonious visits and for church, and a short velvet, serge, or satin skirt for matinees and teas. With black cos- tumes an all white or black hat is worn. When the costume is colored the hat must match. A separate colored coat will serve for two dresses of the same color but of different material—for example, one of charmeuse and one of velvet or cloth. The latest separate coat is only waist deep at the back, but in front it drops below the belt line into little pointed basques. Made of rosewood-colored vel- vet, it is trimmed with rows of narrow black soutache braid between black satin-covered cords. The flat collar of tucked white net is crossed by a strip of sable fur, and net frills finish the long sleeves. For spring, velvet will replace the fur collar. It is worn over a grace- ful draped charmeuse skirt, with a scant underskirt. HE second example of these smart little coats has heavy blue velvet figures on a ground of emerald - green. It is worn over an elegant reception gown of dark blue charmeuse. Chinchilla fur is used to finish the sleeves, and a three- inch band of this fur around the neck as a flat collar open at the front. This little coat is illustrated on the preceding page. A long coat of velours de laine has been greatly admired for its chic and prac- ticality. The coat was about knee- length at the front, sloping down to a point near the skirt hem at the back, the lower edge being slightly drawn in by a band of fur. The skirts and body of the coat were seamed together at the waist line, a little fulness in the kimono upper part. A flat velvet collar was around the neck, with wide lapels below, and the front opened to show a high waist- coat of plaid like the skirt. Cuffs to match the collar and big bone buttons down the front were used. Instead of plain velvet one may use a material called tuyau d’orge—a thick woolen material with a velvety surface cut deep with a thread line of white, which would be in harmony with the large buttons of white bone. White serge barred with black was the material of the dress worn with this coat. ECENTLY a group of representative Parisian society women of different nationalities have gathered together pro- ductions of the primitive arts of several provinces into one large collection, and turned it into a permanent Exposition- vente established in pleasant chambers on the Rue Royale. The rooms are charm- ingly arranged to enhance the attractions of the beautiful embroideries, white and colored, and blouses and chemisettes. Most fascinating of all are dolls of all sizes correctly dressed in the peasant costumes of the various countries. In the Hungarian section have just been re- ceived some small, close, peasant bonnets coarsely embroidered with shaded red threads in a close, heavy design on a foundation of coarse hand-woven ecru linen. One of the smartest of Parisian milliners secured several of these bonnets, which she has turned into the most en- chanting motor headwear imaginable. The crown of one, finished for a novelty- loving client, is outlined by a puff of dark blue velvet—in delightful contrast to the deep red of the embroidery—and blue velvet faces the corners of the front, as they are turned back below the ears. Strings are added, or not, as one wishes, but this special bonnet is finished with long, wide, strips of dark blue mousseline de soie which may be used to wind the throat or as a veil.

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from run. y in with any loth, -long urch, skirt cCOos- vorn, hat e for it of e of th. Vaist lrops nted vel- rrow lack r of ip of long place race- cant mart lvet reen. own . fur 1ree- k as little age. been yrac- nee- to a ack, n in ody the 10no was ‘low, aist- s to tons d of alled erial th a ye in vhite lack with itive rent pro- veral and tion- Ss on arm- tions and ttes. f all sant 1 the re- nets red mn a ecru isian nets, en- able. elt y- dark . the blue [, as ears. shes, with eline the March : Fashions Russian Blouses from Paris — él HE prettiest simple costumes for spring are tailored dress-and-coat suits of blue, black, and gray faille silk. At present they are rather severe in ap- pearance, depending for ornamentation on flat collars, revers, and cuffs of white embroidered linen. With a firmer surface than faille these silks offer a wider field for ornamentation. Some are trimmed charmingly with black silk braid; but not as braid appears in the piece—far from it. It is twisted and curved into all sorts of designs, as varied as the brains which direct the fingers, and the designs thus made are added to by effective hand-stitchery. The French knot plays an important part in this cunning work, and the old arrow-head embroidered in silk. Of mole-color motre gauze with figured chiffon C. C. Sheldon. Moire silk suit with Russian blouse G e She ldory . ATERED silk—black or dark blue—and black silk braid are the materials composing this Redfern Russian-blouse costume. The braid ornaments, set with handsome buttons of white agate with raised black centers, are laid across two flat unstitched folds which finish the front edges. The large, square collar, cut after the new fashion to end just over the top of the shoulder line, is covered with braid-work. Cut on circular lines, the skirt of the coat, while sewed with- out fulness to the blousing body part, flares a good deal at the hem. The collar has a straight line across the back from shoulder to shoulder. Two of the buttons like those on the front are used above the seam at the back, and two below. The upper skirt is finished at the center back with a narrow box-pleat, which extends just a little below the edge of the overskirt. All this gives the prevailing effect of the narrow look at the foot. By the use of two materials, taupe-colored moiré gauze, and matching figured chiffon, the elab- orate effect of the handsome toilette shown in the drawing is easily obtained. String-colored lace forms the little V at the neck, and the folded belt is of willow-green satin. Gowns of this sort, worn with a separate coat, are particularly well adapted for matinées, tea-rooms, and hotel dinners; in fact,in Paris it is the usual afternoon toilette.

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“I’m a pretty good cook, but I couldn’t make bouillon like this.’’ ‘*You could, if you used ‘Steero’ Cubes, as I do.”’ “Steero” Bouillon requires no skill nor trouble to prepare. The perfect blending of the fla- vor of beef, vegetables and spicesis due toour special meth- od. ‘“Steero” assures you the most deliciously flavored bou- = illon—made in a moment by simply dropping a “ Steero” Cube into a cup and pouring boiling water on the Cube. ‘STEERO (Reg. U. 8. Pat, Off.) Bouillon Cubes Made by American Kitchen Products Co., New York The wise housewife keeps a box of **Steero’’ Cubes handy, because she knows how convenient they are. Sauces and gravies are improved by the addition of a ‘‘Steero” Cube, just before serving. Write Us for Free Samples —prove the high quality of ““Steero’’ Cubes, Ask for ‘*Steero’” Bouillon at Soda Fountains DULL ALUNUNUL = If your druggist, grocer or delicatessen E dealer cannot supply you with “Steero” = Cubes, send us his name and 35¢ forabox = of 12 Cubes. postpaid; enough for 12 cups. joxes of 50 Cubes and 100 Cubes are more economical for regular home use, Distributed and Guaranteed by Schieffelin & Co. S 238 William Street New York Under Pure Food Law, Serial No. 1 ITIUNOHVNTUUL AU ale ~- The Complete Warks of William finiwells ESSRS. HARPER & BROTHERS announce + that the complete + works of WILLIAM DEAN HOWELLS are now in course of preparation. The plan is to divide the y work into groups of six volumes 4 each. GROUP I. is now ready. I. My Literary Passions Criticism and Fiction li. A Hazard of New Fortunes + Ill. London Films + Certain Delightful English Towns IV. Landlord at Lion’s Head V. Literary Friends and Acquaintance hy VI. Literature and Life \ HARPER & . ‘ i ol BROTHERS My Size of book 534x834 inches. + Franklin Square Wew York City ecient \. Dark green rep cloth. a Portraits and volumes, \ f the Complete Works of William Dean Howells. \ other Illus If1 do not care for the books 1 \ trations. vill return them in lays at your ~ expense. If I keep the books I will cea to you $1 a w un the f ~~ price, $12, } ’ end you with in 30 days the cash price, $11.4 5.3‘ * ‘N N Signature... «+++ es . wee Q \ Ciky and State...+++-s+eces ; omen saccacanee Ne ' Gran {| | Harper's : Bazar Dress with Afternoon dress of gray crepe and shadow lace T= beauty of the special, one-piece costume (which is really composed of two parts, blouse and skirt, and is affectionately termed “‘the little dress”), allied to the practical front closing of the corsage, was recognized on its first appearance and at once it was eagerly accepted. Its vogue has so increased that now there is no end to the variety of the designs in velvet, -silk, satin, and even in serge and fine cloth. Added changes are rung in neck and belt adornment, while the general lines of a plain, full skirt lightly draped, and loosely fitted belted blouse eorsage are preserved. The enchanting air of youthfulness this dress lends the wearer ‘OFT black satin is a favorite matcria] for these little dresses. Imagine the effect of one with a slightly draped skirt gathered to a round waist line and sashed with Venetian-red satin ribbon hanging in short, sharply pointed, and uneven ends at one side. The ruffle that trims the large, flat, lingerie collar widens a little in front and frills to the top of the belt, framing a waistcoat of old red and gold brocade closed with crystal ball buttons. Still another of black charmeuse, its surplice corsage edged with a narrow band of white swansdown, is belted with black satin clasped with one of the new long, narrow buckles of cut steel, and small cut-steel buckles clasp the bows of the wearer’s black satin slippers, Long sleeves are usually preferred with these dresses, all pleasantly varied in form. With the insistence of this little toilette a separate coat became a necessity, and this season has brought the manteau de jour into the most important place in the ae daytime wardrobe. Made of contrasting hy ij material—often of contrasting color—the ; length and form are decided upon by per- sonal taste. is not the least of the qualifications which have earned its success. One of the most charming examples of the simplicity of these dresses is a Bechoff-David production, which was worn in one of the new ‘plays. Of soft, pale pink satin, it is belted with matching ribbon tied in a flaring-looped bow at the back. The pretty collar of embroidered mull is frilled with lace, which also trims the edges of the front closing down to the belt. Large buttons of yellow amber, a striking feature, are linked with pink silk cord. The sleeves are trimmed to match. The fulness of blouse and skirt 18 massed in a continuous line on the sides. M

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{erial the kirt ashed ng in ds at large, tront ing a ‘losed ler of “«lged lown, h one f cut p the pers, with form, ilette 1 this jour the sting the per- cess. hese f the hing ollar dges llow The rt is March : Fashions the Smart New Details Simple little dress of green with velvet charmeuse buttons TH [E one-piece dress—really waist and skirt joined by the belt— is such a favorite that an ample wardrobe should contain Several, in charmeuse, linen, serge, or pongee. One charming ex- ample of such a dress is of green charmeuse with écru lace collar. The flat, stiff little sash and folded belt are of sand-color satin with silk fringe. At the back the apron overskirt disappears under a narrow box-pleat which extends an inch above the belt and ends in a Point caught by four small velvet buttons set vertically. Another of these simple frocks is of blue charmeuse with belt and collar facing of garnet velvet with wool embroidery on the collar and sleeve trimming and on the end of the belt-tab. A few cross- stitches in wool decorate the velvet buttons. Old-fashioned crewels are used for this embroidery. A dress built on these lines, always with long sleeves and a high From the Bazar‘s Paris Correspondent SMART new Paris dress of coral- pink silk has a sleeve with two lace frills divided by a two-inch band of black velvet ribbon. This bit of velvet ribbon is the only contrasting note in the whole dress. These bracelets of black and an inch-wide band tied about the throat ‘are pretty eighteenth-century touches that are most becoming to young women. An odd freak is the use of little frills of lace or soft silk on skirts from the waist to the knees. Be- low this the skirt is quite plain and scant. collar, is made suitable for use as a calling costume by the addition of one of the smart little separate coats. The wearing of white velvet and white satin gowns has become a fad; and, truly, white gowns are charming and always becoming. A tailored costume of white velours de laine, noted at tea-time at the Ritz yesterday, was quite untrimmed save for a few handsome crystal ball buttons and a little waistcoat of white moiré silk. The beauty of it consisted in the soft mossy surface of the material, and the cut of the coat—long waisted, and with a half-long, full skirt attached under a stitched band of the material, ending at each side of the front. The sleeves, gathered into a long armhole, were drawn at the wrists into a stitched band, and trimmed with double lace frills, one turning upward, the other falling far over the hand. This sleeve is liked on dresses and blouses. 151 The Advantages of Drinking BAKER’S COCOA The Cocoa of High Quality lie in its ab- solute purity and whole- someness, its delicious nat- ural flavor, and its perfect assimilation by the diges- tive organs. Registered, U.S. Pat. Off. As there are many inferior imitations, be sure to get the genuine with our trade-mark on the package Walter Baker & Co. Limited Established 1780 | DORCHESTER, MASS. old taralened ware that looks hideous can easily be made as brilliant and handsome as new in a few minutes with ELECTRO = SILICON the magic cleanser and polisher for Gold, Silver, Aluminum, Nickel, Brass, and all fine metals. Gives a lustrous polish with least effort and absolutely no injury. Time-tested by a million housewives. Send address for FREE SAMPLE Or, 15c. in —_ for full sized box t-pai The a Silicon Co. liff Street, New York. Sold by p medlnent and ruggists Everywhere. We pack Hamilton Coupons. Beautiful Floors A rag and a can of Old English Floor Wax are all you need, and if you fol- low directions you can get that soft lustre which has made “Old Eng- lish” finish famous for centuries. Never gets sticky, doesn’t show © scratches. Is most eco-’ nomical because it spreads farther and wears longer. .

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152 This will : Answer Your | Pattern Ve HONE HONS HO HEHE 14 10.0 10.0 10.8 $66 6 6 6 tae 16 be ine 4 16.6. seus VENEERS HEHEHE NS HONS NENG HONE Patterns of the fol- lowing garments, pictured in this March Bazar, are now ready. No. 339. : 4 ¢ Puarn Mannisu TaiLoreD SHIRTWAIST: : ; : No. 3 New Box-pLeaTED SHIRTWAIST: 4 377. F Lace Guimpe: No. 024. Tuckep Saretwaist: No. 367. t TAILORED Skirt: No. 442. - CHIFFON AND LAce Waist: No. 363. ACCORDION-PLEATED SKrRT: No. 448. Sipe One-prece Dress: No. 543. Ovtine Brouse: No. 354. Four-GOoRE Skirt: No. 430. New AFTERNOON BLOvseE: No. 378. New AFTERNOON SKIRT: No. 457. qj New Embroidery Designs also are for ‘sale, as follows: Luncn Cuotu: No. 533. — Rounp CENTERPIECE: No. 534. - Luncnw Napkin: No. 535. » Puate Dorty: No. 536. FinGer-BowL Doity: No. 537. Tumsier Doity: No. 538. 16.46.06 Je Neve 10.066 epee be IniT1AL LeTrerR for stamping handker- chiefs, towels, napkins, ete. Any let- ter, in this style, in 15 sizes, perforated, with stamping powder, price, 10 cents. The sizes range from one-half inch to four inches in height. 3636616 1616161606 NE N66 ONS 16 OO 16 16 oe ie 166 ee he ie be be be, | Questions | 06 6 160 10 ee he ee he he ie eee 8 ie eee eee bee je) pe HONONONS FONE NONE NE HE HONS HO NOHEHOHON £66066 0000 60 he oe ie eee ee eee ee. very NONE NOROHE HONE £6066 1616.06.66 60 6 166 eee ie i VE NERE NONE TE HONS HONE HONS se | (Ge 3 % 3 7 F ‘ : 4 = : = . = 7 : : 3 : ' $ ’ 7 ’ £ 3 2 3 @ A FULL ALPHABET of each of the above F styles, on one sheet. Transferred by 7 F 4 rubbing only. Sizes, 134, 3 inches, = and inchinheight. Price, licents % or shee = per sheet. F 2 2 3 ; 3 Purchasers of patterns are especially ; cautioned to be sure to mention size of F 4 P pattern required in ordering by mail. $ & Remittance may be made in stamps, % = money order, postal note, or check. 3 = = — ; = HARPER’S BAZAR F 4 = Franklin Square, New York City = = SELLS SSSLSLSSSLISLSLILILSILE | of embroidery or lace like the collar may be used | present style. | these blouses ready made, but | brassiére Harper's : Bazar — Planning One’s Clothes Making Blouses for Suits OR some years past we have repeatedly heard the state- ment made that ‘‘separate waists are out of fashion,” and yet we still see them constantly, and beautiful ones, too. The truth of the matter is that they are worn with almost all street suits; but the waist must belong to the suit and match it in color. If you have one good coat-and-skirt suit, with two or three different waists, you will be well supplied for any out- door occasion, including those when part of the time is spent in- doors without the coat. One coat and skirt will usually outlast three blouses—sometimes more. But the best plan is to have two at once, beginning a new one when you first see signs of wear in those you are using. Many women, of course, buy ere you can have much more original- ity for less money if you make them yourself. They are very easy to make. They are gen- erally unlined, have few seams, and can be quickly put together and easily fitted. If you are in- clined to be stout, and think you do not look well in an unlined blouse, you can make it look en- tirely shipshape by wearing a firm, closely fitted brassiére. Such a brassiére was issued as a Bazar pattern two months ago—in the January Bazar—No. 138. It is a most ingenious model. The whole brassiere is cut in one piece. The back has an extension coming around under the arms and form- ing a fitted bust support, while over this falls a trimmed corset- cover front, hiding the fitted part of the garment. The bust-support part of the gar- ment may be cut of heavy muslin to give it firmness as a support, with the front piece made of nainsook trimmed with lace. The two may be seamed together at the shoulder dart. Another good plan is to make | yoursélf a fitted and boned waist | lining of strong white cambric and tack or pin your blouse to it at the waist line. The blouse can be quickly taken off and the lining can be washed as soon as_ | it is soiled. One of these linings | will serve for several blouses. If, however, you are slight, you will not need any lining. Pattern No. 377 is one of the latest designs for a suit blouse. It is shown in two ways—made quite plain for morning use, and in a little more dressy effect for the afternoon. Whichever way you mean to use the pattern, the work is done in the same way until you reach the finishing touches. First baste the box-pleats and finish the front edges, then baste the shoulder and under-arm seams, fit the waist, and stitch the seams. They should be French seams unless the material is a heavy one, in which case they must be stitched once, pressed open, and bound. The French seam is made by basting on the right side and stitching about three-eighths of an inch outside of the basting. Then cut the seam quite close to the stitching, turn it to the inside of the waist, and stitch again on the basting line. If the material does not crease easily, it is best to baste the seam on the inside before the second stitching. The easiest way to make the box-pleats is to baste each one like a wide tuck, stitch like a tuck, and then press it open flat with the center of the tuck resting on the stitching. The neck of the blouse may now be finished with the plain turn-over collar, worn with a four- a5 Shirt Waist No. 377 (with guimpe) Sizes, small, medium, and large. of the lace, cut off the lining with just enough to turn to the right side, and stitch the two together with their raw edges toward cach other. You can bone this guimpe and make it serve as a brassiére also, or you can leave it quite soft and pliable; but, in either case, fit it tight enough to hold the yoke in place. For a very simple morning waist to go with a suit you will find it a good plan to get a wash silk, with Shirt Waist No. 377 Price, 15 cents each stripes of white and the suit color, and make it by Pattern No. 339. This is the correct, plain, mannish shirtwaist, and you can use the pattern for any wash material. The following tables show what it will cost to make a new gown, two blouses, and a guimpe by the patterns on this page: Frock—Pongee, 11 yards, $5.50; Lace, 334 yards, $1.40; But- tons, 25 cents—$7.15. Blouse—Satin, 4 yards, $3.00; Velvet for bow, } yard, 25 cents; Lace collar, $1.50; Buttons, 50 cents—$5.25. Shirtwaist—Wash silk, 4 yards $2.00; Buttons, 15—$2.15. Guimpe—Lace, % yard, 25 cents; Lawn, 3% yard, 15 cents; Collar sup- ports, hooks and eyes, 10 cents— 50 cents.—Total, $15.05. : | in-hand tie or a fancy jabot; or it may be finished in the more elaborate way. For this afternoon blouse the neck is cut a little low, running to a shallow point at.the front, and either round or with a similar point at the back. The edge is finished with a narrow stitched band of the material. Turn the edge toward the outside, baste the band over it, and stitch on each edge of the band through the waist. A collar of lace or fine embroidery is worn turned over this edge, and at the front a flat bow of velvet of a color that is a distinct contrast with the waist material. The bow can be plain or have a buckle. If the latter, the buttons of the blouse should match the buckle, and the cuff buttons should also match. Whichever way you make the blouse the sleeve is the same. Its special feature is the turned-back cuff used with a linked cuff button. This is the most correct finish for a simple blouse. A flat cuff instead, if you prefer it. The blouse with the neck cut low is worn over a lace guimpe, one of the most useful articles a woman can own while waists and gowns are made in the With pattern No. 024 you can make yourself two or three separate guimpes in a very short time, and they will cost hardly anything, even if you have to buy the lace; and you may have some that you can use. It is well to have several guimpes, for they need frequent washing and you want to have one always ready for use. One most | important point about a lace guimpe is to be sure | to sew firmly to the collar enough collar supports to hold it well in place. Sometimes one wants a guimpe with undersleeves, as well as yoke, of lace, to wear with a more elabo- rate gown. The most satisfactory way to make one of this kind is to use a waist-lining pattern. After fitting and stitching the lining of white muslin put it on under the gown with which it is to be worn and mark the outline of the top of the gown on the guimpe, also the lower edge of the sleeve. Make the lace reach to an inch beyond this line, turn in the edge Lace Guimpe No. 024 Sizes, small, medium, and large Price, 10 cents Simple House Frock Waist No. 367 Skirt No. 442 Sizes, small, medium, and large -——

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Bazar March : Patterns lEs —_ a As a First Course to Your Dinner Serve a delicious, zestful bouillon made of Liebig Com- pany’s Extract of Beef. It’s for Spring and Summer ar . The One-Piece Dress trimming may be used around the square neck and up the front of the rich HE predictions for spring and summer are that the one- ; ) ard ng ; piece dress will be more than ever popular. The tailored the skirt, or bands of the dress material itself may be embroidered for the greatest aid to perfect a suit of two pieces with blouse to harmonize will not be the purpose. Paris dressmakers are using wool embroidery on such | digestion known. It w d al _ dropped; it will have its distinct place in the outfit, but , . won er- it will not be used for all occasions as in past years. oa Sa fully increases the nutritive For afternoons and for house wear at all times these simple or [ tak ith : elaborate one-piece dresses are the “‘thing.’’ They will be made | | i A en wl : . rt in the fancy-bordered crépes that are so much in fashion this year, | eae ae = it. This is N % in charmeuse, crépe de Chine, éponge, voile, and linen. A variety | e ; tific 339 of materials and a variety of styles as great are presented for one’s | a scientific- choice. mee ally demon- One of the very smart models is shown here as waist No. 378 and | trated fact skirt No. 457. The simplicity of such a frock is one stra : ac of its chief charms. Skirt and blouse are joined at — recognized the belt line, and the whole thing closes with hooks SS ale Sa and eyes at the back, the belt closing at the left side, yy the Des where the seam in the skirt gives a convenient place. modern Two colors are used here; in the choice of these colors di and in the trimmings lies the whole question of medica whether this shall be a simple afternoon frock or one f] practice. suitable for festive occasions. The band around the | ow top of the waist and set under the edges down the Z| erefore, left side is supposed to be of a color or material which =—Z te tie | contrasts with the main part of the dress. The lace - LIEBIG yoke and undersleeves may be on a separate guimpe — foundation, which takes the place of a lining for the with your meals. It secures ress. It saves it from being soiled by the oil in | the skin; and this lining is always fresh, as it may be laundered every day if necessary. With this separate guimpe the making of such a_ | dress is simplified most delightfully. Now, as to the matter of the choice of material. If you want a practical afternoon dress*suitable for | the street with a coat, or for luncheon with a friend; or for a club meeting, éponge or charmeuse in some dark shade, with trimmings of black satin, would ; serve admirably. The set-in band of black satin, , with buttons and buttonholes of the black, and a cording of it to finish the edges, would be very smart. A\ Navy or royal blue with black is good, and so is \ brown or gray. h \ For a brighter dress choose, for this model, a rich, the complete absorption of the available nourishment of the food taken, hence, builds you up and makes you strong. GET THE GENUINE LIEBIG | COMPANY’S EXTRACT OF BEEF with biue signature across the label. - \. \ warm brown, for instance, with an apricot or old- gold shade for trimming; or try two shades of violet if that is becoming to you. A left-over piece of two- toned brocade may supply just about enough for the band, with a plain satin matching one of its shades for cordings, buttons, and buttonhole binding. Plain pongee might be used, with éponge in the same shade as a trimming. The woman who prefers a dress that fastens at the front will like especially No. 543, another one-piece dress. This is not one of the very scant skirt models which so many dislike. It is comfortably full, and as it closes at the left side of the front it is especially Beautiful Rogers’ Silverware Send us the metal cap from a Liebig jar and 10c tor a Liebig bouillon spoon. Send one Address Dept. A Corneille David & Co, 9 North Moore St., New York SF hi hs 1 (>) 4 ff Ae FEES ae REE SS — IID ™, oe lo. 339 suitable for the woman who must often dress in a “The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman nse the hurry without help. Any effective band lace, or | is iness.”” . | 7 gown, a ' ; Bute Waist No. 378 Waist No. 363 Skirt No. 457 Skirt No. 448 cents; | Price, 15 cents each Price, 15 cents each | Gown No. 543 4 Price, 25 cents Blouse No. 354 Skirt No. 430 Price, 15 cents each bands for woolen frocks. A white serge will have heavy wool embroidery in bands of dull or bright tones, to suit the taste, or on a dark wool dress these bands may be worked in flower designs, or in quaint con- ventional cross-stitch patterns. If you are planning a handsome linen gown for summer. you can make it most effective by embroidering bands for it now and making it after this model. Accordion-pleating is much used again. All the shops sell the chiffon pleated réady for use, so it is no great matter to make a dress as elaborate in appearance as Nos. 363 and 448. The waist pattern gives the foundation shape, on which the pleated chiffon may be pinned with rather scant fulness, an effective lace forming the bib and sleeves and edging the basque. This basque may be of the chiffon unlined, a little thin silk being put in at the back, where the basque or peplum forms a box-pleat which is caught up over the ribbon belt. A pale-rose chiffon or voile gown made thus, with cream or écru lace and deep American Beauty rose shade for the belt and big, soft bow at the side, would be de- lightful for receptions or theater. It would also be most suitable for a bridesmaid’s | costume, the coat effect of the bodice being especially good: with the usual pic- ture hat. Sars The well-dressed woman blesses and benefits herself—and the world—for she adds to its joys. NAIAD DRESS SHIELDS add the final of cl nd . They are a necessity to the woman of delicacy, re- finement and good judgment. Naiad Dress Shields are hygienic and scientific. They are absolutely free from rubber with its un- pleasant odor. They can be quickly sterilized by immersing in boiling water for a few seconds only. The only shield as good the day it is bought as the day it is made. At stores or sample pair on receipt of 25c. Every pair guaranteed, TheC.E. Conover Co., Mfrs., 101 FranklinSt., NewYork A Hunter’s Camp-Fires For the simple morning one-piece frock | young wemen will find such a model as | Nos. 354 and 430 extremely comfortable. The loose, easy blouse and simple four- piece skirt may be made to fasten at the left side of the front, and are easily made and easily put on. And for the practical morning frock of gingham or linen, No. 543 again is a remarkably good pattern. It is easily put together and easily put on. | A bordered gingham may be bought and the edge used asa trimming. Such a frock, without a guimpe, is especially comfortable to wear in hot weather while doing one’s housework. ; A practical plan in making the ne-piece dress is to make it really in two pieces, fastened together under the belt by hooks and eyes or patent fasteners. By EDWARD J. HOUSE HE book gives the reader a moving picture of the life in the regions visited, as well as a description of dif- ferent kinds of hunting. As the sports- man travels far outside the regular tourist line, such material is all fresh and exciting. The animals hunted are moose, walrus, rhinoceros, elephant, giraffe, antelope, grizzly, mountain goat, caribou, etc. Profusely lilustrated from Photographs, and with Maps of the Territory Traversed. $5.00 net. HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK MAKE CORSETS pomell Easily and quickly iearned by mail. Ideal vocation for spare time. Earn #18 to$40 a week. Simplex Corset Cellege, 784 Market, San Francisco. Free book for stamp.

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4 PCM CoO Wo geIIe Wc cco eeleleCwels!

fa : Books of P I ol ial ' Books of Fermanent Interest | i i 2) fa q M ar k @ fal : ji | Waln | : 2)} Tall : By ALBERT : : BIGELOW PAINE | 5 “Tn no biography yet written | el has the biographer more finely @ a linked the various stages of an a illustrious man’s career. Perhaps 5 in no other career has the boy ae been so truly father to the man— =] with his hatred of rules and con- a) ventions, and his magnificent a freedom of soul. But it is Mr. o) Paine’s singular merit to have 5 shown the life of Mark Twain, @ and the most luminous product ial of the American soil, as so con- @ sistent a unit. It is a great biog- aI raphy, as true to its subject as a it is true to its history.”—The ral Public Ledger, Philadelphia. eS “Tt does not seem possible ) to begin dealing with Mr. Albert Bigelow Paine’s biography of Mark Twain @ except statistically. It is Homeric, as Lamb said of a certain entry | about the consumption of pérter. It serves that purpose which a @ good biography always should—revealing the personality and character of fj its subject as well as chronicling his life-story.—London Telegraph. @ Octavo, Cloth, Trade Edition, 3 vols., 86.00 net; Octavo, Cloth, Library Edition, Ss 3 vols., $7.00 net; Octavo, Three-quarters Calf, 3 vols., 814.50 net; Octavo, (el Three-quarters Levant, 3 vols., $15.50 net.

. Your ial ‘ (eh @ uf nd ( U nited A ¥e a a Oe ; States mae ¥ ay ad J: \ Rs @ (a) . WNINID 4 |. By ARNOLD BENNETT f (al Arnold Bennett saw more in a ‘| brief. visit than most of us see in a lifetime. Our daily life, our society, our sports, our theaters, our schools @ and colleges, East and West, all come in for their share of his sane f and charming appreciation. Jllustrated. ' The Ways ’ of the Planets By

Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2.00 net.

| George Washington

PUPP PUPP PPPPPPPBRUUUUUP PP UPUUUPUUUUPOPPPUPPUPUPPUPUPUUP PPP PPPPPUPUDUPBUUUTT fal A | Bv President-Ele a | MARTHA EVANS MARTIN | BY President Elect fel Author of “The Friendly Stars” | = a An accurate but untechnical in- | A new illustrated edition at a @ @ teresting account of the planets and | popular price of this biography of @ i their movements, with easy and sure | our first President. The period i @ directions for finding them, identify- i treated is especially significant, being ing them, and following them in all the culmination of the Colonial era @ their comings and goings through | and the establishment of the Re- @ rs . ‘ ‘ ° @ the year. With Illustrations and | public on the firm basis of Con- al Charts. Crown 8vo, $1.25 net. stitutional law. Copiously Illustrated

by Howard Pyle, Harry Fenn, and others. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2.00 net. Iaaeweaorajcy * In the Courts ' of Memory Lincoln’s fel By Madame L. pE tz fal A + «< < ae 4 } y a HEGERMANN-LINDENCRONE Ow nN Stories 3g The fascinating reminiscences of t TY Tal g an American woman who was an By ANTHONY GROSS @ appreciated guest at the court of For many years Mr. Gross has © Napoleon ITI. and a resident of Paris | been collecting and verifying the 2] for nine of the gay, brilliant years | best of the stories told by Lincoln 3 preceding the Commune. The book | and about Lincoln, and the result @ includes many letters written to her | is presented in a book of engrossing interest in its humor and _ pathos and its illumination of historic char- acters and events. With Portrait. 12mo, Cloth, $1.00 net. 3 family during this period, all of @ which contain a wealth of intimate detail. Many Illustrations. @ Octavo, Cloth, $2.00 net.

: Lyric Diction 2 For Singers, Actors, and Public Speakers. Preface by Madame Melba a By DORA DUTY JONES, 48ci9R OF 6: THE TECHNIQUE OF SPEECH” (al This book shows how to cultivate melodious speech tones and to main- Me) if SII V ISI IIIT o ToT a Tey aToasdTagudodaeyaaeel fel at ed $ ee . . ° . . . (tain verbal purity in singing without interfering with approved methods ba of vocal instruction. Charts. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.25 net Gaeee@2288893 HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK sasegessuaad

The Bazar’s VERY reader is invited to send answers. if there are no correct complete lists. Harper’s Bazar, Franklin Square, New York “4IXHUANK YOU” to all the thousands of solvers who have made the Miller feel that the Mystic grinding was largely worth while. The answers have been in such numbers, lately, as to afford great encouragement and inspiration. Many new friends have visited us, and are very welcome. Please try your hand at making a puzzle based on the name of your native state. The books are worth winning. The illustrated puzzles represent two beautiful states ——TuHeE Puzzie MILLER.

The name of a state What Time Was It? The March Hare was mad. No wonder! His cupboard was almost as bare as his friend’s, Mother Hubbard’s. It held half a pie only. was it? The March Hare pondered. Three boys coming along asked what was the matter, and the Hare explained. He was invited out to dinner, and wanted to be on time. What o'clock was it? “Give us half that half of your pie,” said the boys, “and we will tell you.” The March Hare did so. Biting alternately at the piece of pastry, the boys shouted, “You told the correct time when you gave us the pie.” This made the March Hare mad again. Then he pondered, and, finally, laughed. “T have it,” he said, complacently. ‘‘Guess I'd better be on my way.” What time was it? A yard of flowers for the first correct reply. Charade (A Beautiful State) My one is Scotch for strong desire, My two is to study what you desire, My three, flee from, as you would fire Lest it become a strong desire. My whole is found to be the source Of many a rushing river’s course. MASSACHUSETTS. ©. G.F. And what time Cross Country Charade As he was walking down a lane, He took the first to see Elaine, But when at last, first was taken, He found his good intent shaken, For in the brimming brook, so clear, My J/ast was swimming without fear. Now when on last the last he took, And left alone the brimming: brook, He swift turned into whole again Where ’mong the daisies walked Elaine. Together then, my whole they trod. They crossed the dunes and burning sod, Until within a sandy cove, He then did first, to say “‘My love, Here, wound with seaweed, in hot stones, We'll leave the last,” tender his tones, Tender they found the last to eat, And when they sampled it as treat, Together, laughing, walked the whole, Where she, so fair, paid loving toll. A Charade | One we call candy, syrup, baby, And frequently, also, my lady. | The rose, carnation, clover, pink, | Often your own dear self, I think. | Two is an organ which lives in the shade, | ; Which never can give you a serenade; | Unless you prefer the beat of a drum, | A tuneless organ which only can thrum. | My whole is an image you carry within, Or wear in a locket, a bracelet, or pin. MASSACHUSETTS. GERTRUDE. Beheadings 1. Behead certain domestic birds And you'll find a wise one. 2. If you behead part of her song, Then better times to you belong. 8. If you behead part of a herd, You'll find a portion of a door. 4. Tell me of what the door was made, Behead—you'll find that it was thin. 5. Make figure out of wood or clay, Doubly behead, find old and gray. . Talk and you'll find the word I mean; Behead and see a mountain green. 1 ASSACHUSETTS. C. G. F. ww & Puzzle Mill Incomplete lists of answers receive prizes Send all letters to ““ The Puzzle Miller,” City, as early in the month as is possibile. Mixed Syllables Rearrange the syllables in pairs to form words of equal length, the initials of which shall spell a famous American, born in Feb- | ruary. Ter, no, est, wis, age, set, ber, nic, sail, in, | ern, ty, ing, gar, gaw, gine, test, nine, tion, dict, hon, or, eth, off, en, ed, oys, gov, ask, dom, rob, gew. C. -B. €.

Mystic Charade My first in “be or not to be.” My second Colored brother. My third pet name for Mother. The Puzzle Miller will confess My whole is offered you to guess. MASSACHUSETTS. C. G. F. One of Our Rhymed Answers to the Drum Puzzle You follow me far when you hear the band play; In battle I rouse those who faint by the way, But when a small boy beats me all the long y Till he breaks my poor head and then throws me away You're glad I am done for and out of the way. Though I never move, I go where you go. — me, I fancy, you’d find things quite Siow. Yet when you are weary of racket and din, | You stop up your ears so the noise can’t | come in. Sometimes I am one thing, again not the same. Four letters; d-r-u-m, spell out my name. Outo. M. C. M. A State Charade Behead, we're letters three An N, an §, and E. Though my one is twice five, My two’s nothing alive, I shall have to confess It spells nothing but S, While my three, you'll agree, Spells nothing but E. Make different division, My three is then vision. My whole in the end Is called The Great Bend.

SY Mabel, the she The name of a state ane State Riddle Whirl this state upon its axis, You will have to pay your taxes. Eliminate, whirl, add one more, You'll find a poet at your door. Behead this poet, you will find That you have an axe to grind. MASSACHUSETTS. Cc. G. F. The December Winners Subscriptions.—Marjorie Kite, Connecti- cut; Mrs. D. A. Dickson, Illinois; Vesta V. Oblinger, Florida. Cash Prizes.—Miss Inez Cushing, Illinois; Mrs. William Jacobs, Utah; Mrs. H. C. Peck, Illinois; Mrs. F. G. Jacobs, Michigan; Miss N. G. Turner, Virginia. Christmas booklets.—Elinor Stanley, Ohio; Louise Haas, Illinois; Alice Kelley, Ohio; Mary Fairbanks, Iowa; James Wood, Michigan. Charade Answer.—Mary Haswell, New York. The March Prizes Three yearly subscriptions to Harper’s Bazar for the three best lists of answers. Fwe prizes of one dollar each for the next five best lists. Two books for first answers to the illustrated puzzles. Two handsome books for the two best original puzzles based on the name of the sender’s native state! A yard of flowers for the first answer to the March Hare puzzle!

—S

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- SWervperries long | quite din, can’t Jame. 4 \\ iv r

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_ “One of my children The American Beverage Brazilian Coffee Raised in America Raised in Brazil Millions of Dollars Kept in America Millions of Dollars Sent to Brazil TENDS TO TENDS TO versus Rosy Complexion Sallow Complexion Good Digestion Stomach Troubles Good Liver Bad Liver Good Heart Heart Palpitation Peaceful Nerves Shattered Nerves Good Flavour Good Flavour No Drug Caffeine, a Drug Energy Weakness from Drugging Try each and judge for yourself. Instant Postum Is now furnished in powdered form. A struck teaspoonful stirred in a cup of hot water makes a cup of Postum instantly. “‘There’s a Reason’”’

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