St. Louis Post-Dispatch
October 18, 1914

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= eethe wr . ton ork 4 Pe3So Leet. ope see oce gs o Sue toes mite 4 Sis bs SHIT ast eests Ht ppeeees heads those Melts ee ot $38 eSeetssrses i) ssebesest tisss tei see tags pics refit ge =+7; se ebias ste aastst, eemneal ts Hest. ithigiich 4 ae ire en i Sts HD -fPR in PHA FRR TE $53 Sebebes eecate sail Bt = ; S pS 04 roe Hk: . —. = peel tal. 333 . 1 : rispeesscctstaes tus cs secsratss Mat t-: testes e st nig a + SHS? Gee aie ne Bites sugerees suet -+999 ees + seen 5s SEs ont EET este RICE FIVE CENTS ————— — Marguerite Martyn Asks as She Describes Revolutions in Dress —~ NO. 59. ST, LOUIS, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 18, 1914. - VOL. 67. RR “Ig St. Louis Fashion in Rebellion Against the Tyrant It Merely Running. Amuck?” Now Busy Fighting Off the Germans Paris sor is \ ger an ¢ THE } eae Go ad ye Ha anit ' oR” SY NICE é BU0 ») . i od ft! ip Ai sh ts . ' it \4 | ait r 4 NDENCIES » Ds BALL NOTED AT THE By MARGUERITE MARTYN. T is agreed among expert and seasoned observ- ers of fashion’s ever-changeful pageant, that never has the fitful dame rung 80 sudden, so radical, so violent, so complete a change in so a stretch of time, as she has between last | and this. Just take your month-old fashion bulletin as an aid to your memory and compare its pictures with what you may observe in St. Louis streets today. Six weeks ago the streets were peopled with women mincing about in skirts that were gen- erous if they measured 30 inches at the hem. And what have we today? The more fashionable among us striding along in skirts that measure four yards round! ‘Bix weeks ago, low heels and the “debutante , Mouch” caused our skirts to pick up in a fold at the heels or else scrape the ground. | Today, “nine Inches from the ground is the conventional length,” announces the tailor or eta 2 at. ss ‘ ea ea et Ga ae po ee i REPRE ERE PROPIA MS EL A A OE da . i ~~ a 2 , * Fare | (a) ay ft o* = ane t LAST :4 s oon its — reggiitadid fits tt : ochet th abtasabesiee setts) Raitt +? fie iH : bel P pet pags ot ees ee ort © te : it ttt a rei stleeseeseeds reeset sate taster ame eay Se gaMtiis: : telagl ch ~~ o 6 . | yl fh hot} : i) y lad 4 i Tw ie MH hw we if Uy! atin) # os bees 23. thy > “ +t 4 Site taht sei te 4 sts 1TH A abate Biss}+F its int ; i th Thee} tet} ) , , ‘i > ; { * | ¢ : ] Cine Bae ge a ee 4 4 + +4 ttt WEE sate rial } al AF shia: Ht Hhin’ 4 ; pi | ee y wT ’ ’ r ; rt? " ++ . 4 Ui ‘ - AN \\ ~~ int 0 he hoger ~\ ‘ x \ . - ; OKIRTS ARE FOUR YARDS WIDE PH ti+4 : , tte i pega: rr eadtt2 SP : “* , ts 3ae e > it . ‘¢ * ~~ sittin -_- a ad . Pras $33/ s383] bites 6h = een ‘ sf - +i F : i Bn | a i 14 Hy 3° oe x te | AN vf tT When psig FF = , ; . PANTELET TCS ESSENTIAL WITs WIRED SKIRT ACM. AND WINE INCHES FROM THE FLOOR can-this-be-I?” lady in the ‘‘Mother Goose” book. And the heels of our new boots, we know, will elevate our skirts to about twelve inches when we really are dressed up.” The Change in Hat Styles. SEASON ago hats couldn't be too smal! or ‘too snug or set too low over our ears. To- day what do we see? Little envelopes, note-paper size, of velvet, hung giddily over one corner of one’s topknot. A month ago the thought of wide-brimmed hats would have caused us to shudder as at a ghost of the late deceased “Merry Widow” monstrosity. Today the more wealthy and ambitious of us are striving to see how large a cart wheel we can balance on our heads. Sleeves which but a little while ago couldn’t be too loose and floppy, this week are “set in” at the armhole and fit tight fin old leg-o’-mutton fashion at the wrist. That’s so shoulders may look narrower and skirts even wider than they are. For the same reason our styliest redingotes are cut with many seams above the waist to give one that narrow back effect. And net only are akirte as wide as may, be, but ’ ’ 5 they are cut circular, mostly, so that they “stand out” and ripple generously when you walk. When of flimsy material, such as party frocks are made of, the skirts are built on tiers of wires. I be- Heve they used to call them tilters! Last year harem trousers were advisable in the absence of petticoats. This year pantalettes are essential because of the voluminousness of one’s petti- coats. Fashion’s whims and vagaries usually can be depended upon as a ready and reliable subject for dissertation at the begiuning of each succeeding season. But, My Goodness! this time the subject gets quite beyond the scape of many pages many TRE FPSHIONABLE WOMANS NIGHTMARE: fe times as large as this. . | Fashion Periodicals Are Baffled. | OME of the fashion periodicals issuing weekly I will acknowledge, and yet they were made with and semi-mozthly bulletins as they do in ( #Dsolute fidelity from life, ag it is to be observed the mad race, seem to have given up the) {2 St Louis streets, at a social function or two chase. There is a very sad reason why some of | #24 im St. Louis shops. « them have abandoned the publication. Yes, Paris fashion bulletins ceased sonfe time Some of them cannot get the sketches they ( ago. From Paris, to whose authority in humble have been wont to rely upon from Paris since ) obedience fashion once bowed down, not a‘com-} war times began. My sketches simply leave some { mand, not hk suggestion, not a word, has come. of the authoritative fashion pictures at the stake, And yet fashion has gone on presenting “new skirts were cast off, Or can it be that 4 des , J ‘ " CAUGHT DOUNV-TOWN 1 @ LAST YEARS MODEL! } fads and fancies,” right along, newer ones, more of them than before, What~-what can be the an- swer to ell this? Can it be°that as soon as Paris’ back was turned, fashion threw off he: yoke as that of a ) tyrannical despot? This would seem to be the answer wheh we think how quickly the fetters of last season's are but proving themselves capable of inventing — tashions, if only they are allowed the freedom to do sof Or can it be—and I think, in view of the chaotic state of affairs now in evidence, this latter answer may well be held in reserve—can it be that fash- ion, like any other ungoverned element, is on the rampage, about te rum amuck without a guiding yy es By ——— Be