National Geographic January 1922

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Saran AN) GEOGRAPHI MAGAZINE JANUARY, 1922 ra 2 a Nc we CONTENTS SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN FULL COLOR The Islands of Bermuda With 16 Illustrations WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Certain Citizens of the Warm Sea With 34 Illustrations LOUIS L. MOWBRAY nice eee enya Py The Land of the Basques With 26 Illustrations HARRY A. McBRIDE The Geography of Our Foreign Trade With 25 Illustrations FREDERICK SIMPICH PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. ye PP FF

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D.C. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer FREDERICK V. HENRY WHIT E, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary ORGE W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EDWIN P, GROSVENOR, General Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, epitor JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE I J. SHOWALTER stant Editor J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chiet of School Service CHARLES J. BELL President American Security and Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD In Charge of Agricultural Ex- plorations, . Department of Agriculture Cc. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of Sciences 0, P, AUSTIN Statistician GEORGE R. PUTNAM Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. $. Con- gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer RA ALE) A. BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIE Military Intelligence Division, General Staff, New York Cc. M. CHESTER Rear Admiral U. S. merly Supt, U. 5. servatory FREDERICK V. COVILLE Botanist, U. S. Department of Agriculture RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN Managing Editor The Evening Star T. L. MACDONALD M. D.,.F. AJC. S; S$. N. D. NORTH Formerly Director U. of Census JOUN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National graphic Magazine Navy, For- Naval Ob- S. Bureau Geo- usssoclate Editor FRANKLIN L. FISHER Chief of Illustrations Division ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W, GREELY Arctic. Explorer, Major General U.S. Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Editor of National Geographic Magazine GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director of U. Geological Survey O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent of U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, and Recently U. 5. Ambassador to France, Italy, ete. ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE" TO carry out the purposes for which it eri ion which was waning when Pizarro first set form a large share of our knowledge of a was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- al Geographic Society publishes this Magazine, All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made, Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt, Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make obser ions wf this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordina: entific data resultant given to the world. In thi: inity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—“The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smok a vast area_of steaming, spouting fissures. As ‘a result of The Society's discoveries this area has been created! a National Monument by proc: lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50. ooo The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. Their Copyright, 1922, by National Groans Society, Nas Bii toes Dic. Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. c foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, in on $75,000 was given by in- dual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was onc of the most_ densely- populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. All rights reserved. Entered at the Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918.

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= BGamilton Patch € “The Watch of Railroad Accuracy” The Favorite Timekeeper of American Railroad Men Accident-insurance terms suggest how safe is traveling upon American railroads. The mortality on our railroads during 1920 averaged but one passenger in every twelve million carried. Credit for such a record belongs to the high efficiency of American railroad men, air brakes, block signal systems, steel cars, and the care with which complicated running schedules are lived up to. For aid in living up to these complicated schedules, the Hamilton Watch is the favorite timekeeper of American railroad men. For example, Conductor N. J. Lorang, appearing in the illus- tration, runs the “Peoria Flyer” on the Rock Island. He has been a conductor for 17 years; he has owned his Hamilton Watch for 22 years. To use a Hamilton for a gift, prize, or reward is to present a time- keeper valued for its excellent appearance as well as for its accuracy. Hamilton Watches are made in various models, from men’s sturdiest types to ladies’ beautiful bracelet styles. Prices range from $40 to $200; movements alone, $22 (in Canada, $25) and up. Send for “The Time- keeper,” an interesting booklet about the manufacture and care of fine watches. The different Hamiltons are illustrated, and prices given. HAMILTON WATCH COMPANY - - Lancaster, Pa. ee eee C6r.25-QO28.3#@Qo.w0”T—mm"mNNNwoowNWowO0CW703$oW?00008—Qq09@$@m———owWaa0.0 00 “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you"

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only when the name AMERICAN CHAIN COMPANY, INCORPORATED You know him. You have suffered from his ways. Your protests are like arrows against the armor of his thick, hippopotamus hide. Nothing but the steel-jacketed bullets of an indignant public opinion will make him realize that his s/ip-shod driving jeopardizes the life of everyone in his path. The thick-skinned driver leaves Weed Tire Chains in the locker when careful drivers put them on their tires. The thick-skinned driver comes recklessly out of side streets; the thick-skinned driver cuts corners; the thick-skinned driver never inspects his brakes or steering gear; the thick-skinned driver does not signal before turn- ing or stopping; the thick-skinned driver does not give a warning signal of his approach. Let us get together. Let us mould the steel-jacketed bullets of public opinion that will pierce his thick skin; make him realize that he must consider the rights of motorists and pedestrians. Maybe he has a conscience and the thick hide is thoughtlessness. Maybe he has only a sense of fear. The bullets can reach that too. Show this to the thick-skinned driver. Let him choose his own class. And keep on the firing line till every human hippo who is muscle-bound above the ears, is driven from the road. This is a sequel to our famous advertisement: ‘The Slip-Shod Driver’. Reprints of both sent on request BRIDGEPORT \6// CONNECTICUT In Canada: Dominion Chain Company, Limited, Niagara Falls, Ontario District Sales Offices: Boston, Chicago, NewYork, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Portland, Ore.,San Francisco The Complete Chain Line—All Types, All Sizes, All Finishes— From Plumbers’ Safety Chain to Ships’ Anchor Chain THE LARGEST MANUFACTURERS OF CHAIN IN THE WORLD “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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xs — wees ry Oo) ) Paul () \ IK VG | 3 li Closed Reos For the Elect Reo automobiles—all types, but especially the closed models—are built for folk of refinement and good taste. Which is to say, those who judge values not merely by the price tag, but in actual quality and finish as disclosed by critical inspection and close comparisons. To fully appreciate the exceptional value you get ina Reo, it were better that you did not know the price until after you had seen and compared the various models and tested every phase of performance. Then you would consider Reos on a plane with cars listing at fully twice the Reo price. In the new Five Passenger Sedan and Four Passenger Coupe you will find everything the heart could desire and good taste suggest. And—the new Business Coupe is just what its name implies—built for everyday use of the professional and business man, who must “‘live in his car’ and who appreciates that dependability and that quality that are—Reo. Reo Motor Car Co., Lansing, Mich. Reo Motor Car Co., of Canada, Ltd., St. Catharines, Ont. Business Coupe $2150 Prices are F. O. B. Factory, plus War Tax

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“Through the Ages with Father Time” — he Watch of the fulure LL down through the ages,” says old Father Time, “T have been seeking timekeeping JerJection. “The cave-man's grass rope, the sun-dial, the hour-glass, the water-clock—all these were but milestones marking the world's awakening to he va/ue of Time. They were upward steps in the evolution of the Elgin of today, ‘he timepiece of all Time!" * * * The Watch of the Future! Will it be actuated by wireless? By the energy of the electron? By the long-sought power of ‘‘perpetual motion’’? Of one thing Father Time is certain. If ever, in enerations to come, it does prove possible to build a ner, more perfect timepiece than the Elgin of today, that timepiece will still be an Elgin. Whatever its form, its source is already foreshadowed —this same lofty doorway through which the Elgin craftsmen, with their passion for perfection, have given to the world the timekeeping marvels of our own generation— O/ git Watch es MADE IN ELGIN, U.S. A. © 1922 ELGIN NATIONAL WATCH CO

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INVITATION Come to Hawaii via Panama on the Raymond-Whitcomb Cruise and you will sail a novel course through balmy seas—call at Hav- ana, San Juan, Port Antonio, Kingston & St. Thomas in the West Indies, at Los Angeles & San Francisco and spend a week in the fascinating Hawaiian Is- lands. Sailing February 11, 1922. Come to Arabian Nights Africa on a Raymond-Whitcomb Tour and you will see in Algeria, Tunisia & Morocco, minareted white towns and palmy desert oases and camel caravans from the pages of the Arabian Nights. French hotels & railways promise you complete comfort in this “nearest Orient”. Tours leave in January, February and March. Come to Europe & the British Isles on a Raymond-Whitcomb Tour and visit London, Paris, Rome and Cadiz and those other places Abroad which are the background of our history and the foremost ambition of the traveler. Visit also Oberammergau and see its impressive Passion Play. Frequent tours through Winterand Spring. ® ® Come to the Mediterranean on the Raymond-Whitcomb Cruise and you will follow the most his- toric shores in the world—visit Cadiz & Naples, Athens & Con- stantinople, Jerusalem & Cairo, and such unusual places as Cor- sica, Cattaro & Corfu—all on the famous liner “George Wash- ington.” Sailing February 14, 1922. Come to Japan and China on a Raymond-Whitcomb Tour and the teeming cities of Asia, towering red-roofed pagodas, giant statues of Buddha, land- scapes of unmatched beauty and quaint customs of the East will delight you, and be always a treas- ured memory. You will also see Korea & our Philippines. Tours, January, February, March, April. Come to South America on a Raymond-Whitcomb Tour and make a circuit of our neigh- bor continent, with its mysterious Inca remains, its snowy Andes and the ultra-modern capitals of its East Coast—an unusual tour that will give you an unques- tioned distinction as a traveler. Tours in January and February. Other tours to Florida, Cuba & Nassau; to California and the Hawaiian Islands; to Egypt and the Holy Land; Round the World Send for our illustrated booklets Raymond & Whitcomb Co. Beacon and Park Streets, Boston New York Philadelphia Chicago San Francisco Los Angeles “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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RGANIZING travel has been our business for the past eighty years—a period that has firmly established our leadership in the confidence and favor of the travelling public throughout the world. Our current programs include: SOUTH AMERICA—An exceptionally well- planned cruise tour leaves New York Feb. 4th; CALIFORNIA- HONOLULU — Tours over land or by sea— via Panama Canal. BERMUDA- WEST INDIES-WINDWARD ISLANDS-CENTRAL AMERICA, etc.— Charming Winter Cruises, itineraries of various lengths. EGYPT-THE NILE-PAL- ESTINE — Programs containing unparal- leled and exclusive advantages. JAPAN- CHINA-PHILIPPINES—Six tours at frequent departures throughout the season. EUROPE— Suitable itineraries to all parts. Special features, individual travel. MEDITERRANEAN - Caronia Wonder Cruise Jan. 28th. All Information and Literature on Request THOS. COOK @ SON 245 Broadway 561 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK Chicago Philadelphia Boston San Francisco Los Angeles Montreal’) Toronto Vancouver 150 Offices Throughout the World Cook’s Traveler's Cheques Good Everywhere Os Ae ; 2 efoto) .& TRAVEL SERVICE iS — —with the New Stromberg Carbu- retor is as quick as thought, A rush \ of power instantly follows the de- mand on your engine. —action n slow down to a snail's urge ahead at express specd —stop—start, at will—your machine is under contre In addition to this miles per gallon, ‘T proved absolutely by fully explained in literature, will be sent you upon request. Write for it © name, year, and model \ of your car, A y Stromberg Motor Devices Co. Or Dept. 139 64 East 25th Street Chicago, Illinois Playground of Enchantment Where you will enjoy with renewed zest your fa- vorite sports of Golf, Tennis, ling, Bathing, Riding, Driving, Fishing, or gay social diversion in dances and parties at any Modern Hotels No Pas M ports Required for Bermuda, ern Hotels and De Luy mship Service. ngs twice weekly throughout winter season. Palatial Twin-Screw, Oil Burning Via S.S.“FORT VICTORIA” & S.S."FORT HAMILTON” milton Doel. ‘teamer operated by the ine, 34 Whitehall St., New York Landing Passengers at ¥ sts good on eithi Furness Bermuda Bermuda Steamship Service during the present Winter Season is also offered by Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., 26 ’dway, New York Operating the S. S. “ARAGUAYA™ Sailing from New York ly beginning January 4th, For literature, rate address the above Steam nd, definite schedule of sailings hip Companies or any Ticket Agent. Advertisement authorized by THE BERMUDA GOVERNMENT Hamilton, Bermuda “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you"

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eA Half (entury of SERVICE Tuis year THe Equirasie Trusr Company of New York begins its second half century of service. Founded in 1871, as the Traders Deposit Company, THE Eauiras.e has built for itself a distinctive place in the life of New York and the nation. Old in years but youthful in spirit, conservative in management but progressive in ideas, mindful of tradition but unafraid to pioneer, great in resources but not too great to lose the human touch, never confusing dignity with aloofness and conceiving of bank service as public service—this is THe EquirasBLe of today. And as we begin our second half century, we are proud of our record of honorable and useful service in national and international finance; and of the intimate place we have in the lives and everyday affairs of our depositors. “Equitable Service’ is the name of a booklet telling something of the services and spirit of this bank. We shall be glad to send you a copy immediately upon request. THE EQUITABLE TRUST COMPANY OF NEW YORK 37 WALL STREET, NEW YORK Madison Avenve at 45th Street 222 Broadway LONDON PARIS

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eUUg. steno ge UHURU TTT 40 Years Without Loss to Any Investor OTHER vital year has been A added to the record of S. W. STRAUS & Co.—a record significant in the world of investments for safety, financial responsibility, and fair dealing. Our newest booklet, which tells the reasons for this record, will be valuable to every investor. Write today for BOOKLET A-1208 S.W.STRAUS & CO Established 1882 Incorporated Straus Building - New York Straus Building - Chicago Offices in Fifteen Principal 40 years without loss to any investor Copyright, 1921. by S. W. Straus & Co. WINTER BUILDING SPECIAL, $1,650, F. O. B. BROOKLYN O need to wait until Spring in order to build your new home. You can erect it now and move into it soon if you build the Bossert way. This beautiful Bossert house, fabricated at our own plant, will give you permanency and much greater speed in erection at less cost than building the ordinary way. ‘The house is shipped to you in sections built to exact meastrrement. Erection is fast, costly labor unnecessary, the usual waste in material avoided. This house has two 9’x12" bedrooms, a 12’x18" living room, a 9’x9’ kitchen, bath and two We are extending our limited time 1,650, f.0.b. Brooklyn—as long as con- ditions allow. Write today or send us 18¢ for our catalogue showing the many types of Bossert homes. LOUIS BOSSERT & SONS, Inc. 1313 Grand Street Brooklyn, N. Y. What’s Coming ——1922°—— Will we see a real bull market? How about money rates? What will happen to bond prices? Babson's Reports Special Barometer Letter—off the press January first—gives you the plain, unbiased facts on the present situation, sad: fo sts coming conditions with remarkable accuracy. It contains informa- tion of vital importance to every investor. REPORT ON REQUEST This Barometer Letter and booklet, “Getting the Most from Your Money"—are available for distribu- tion to interested investors, gratis. Tear out the Memo—now—and hand it to your secretary when you dictate the morning’s mail. Merely ask for Bulletin No, A-12 Roger W. Babson’s Statistical Organization Wellesley Hills, 82, Mass. (Suburb of Boston) Tho Largest Organization of Its Character in the World CUT OFF HERE MEMO For Your Secretary Write Roger W.. Babson, founder of the Bahson Statistical Organization, Well - ley Hills, 8 as follow: Please letin A- and booklet, “Ge: tting the Mos from Your Mon gratis 6% PAID FOR 27 YEARS This old, conservative Company has paid'6% on Two-Year Time Certificates for 27 years. All its investments are made in first mortgages on improved real estate—the safest security in the world—and its Certificates are always at par. Interest checks mailed semi-annually, or quar- terly if desired. Tf you have $25 or more to invest. write for our booklet, “6% and Safety.” The Calvert Mortgage Company 877 Calvert Building BALTIMORE, MD. The Fame of Jacobs Bird- Houses is Known in Every Land Beautify your grounds and help your bird neighbors by using JAcons colony houses for Purple Martins, individual boxes for the Bluebird, Wren, ec, Swallow, Flicker, ‘Tite and Woodpecker Bird Baths and Drinking Fountains Feeding Devices for Winter Birds Sparrow Traps and Bird- Banding Traps. Beautifully illustrated booklet FREE Jacobs Bird-House and Mfg. Co. dorsement by the birds Waynesburg, Pa. Over 39 years continuous in- “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you"

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Why Americans now go to Europe on American Ships MERICANS who have crossed the Atlantic on U. S. Government ships give three reasons for preferring them. They find the comforts they are accustomed to find in the finest American hotels; American food, prepared by chefs who know how to cook for Americans; and American companions. Hotel Comforts at Sea On your way to Europe now you may have the comforts and the luxuries of the finest hotels. The accommodations of the S. S. George Washing- ton, flagship of the fleet, are surpassed nowhereon the seas. The staterooms are large and beautifully decorated. Most have private baths; all have magnificent social rooms are paneled with rare woods and are furnished with luxurious upholstered furniture that in- vites relaxation. In cold weather the broad promenade is enclosed with glass. American Cuisine Many Americans who have traveled on American ships say the cuisine has set a new standard. It is particularly satisfying to Americans be- cause American dishes are served. The cuisine of the S. S. George Washington has become famous. American Companions American ships are the nat- ural places for Americans to passenger lists you will find the names of Americans from all over the 48 states; officers of the Army and Navy, other Government officials, business men whose names are known to every schoolboy, and social leaders from every section. When you go to Europe, you too will prefer an Amer- ican ship—a ship of which you own a part. And it will be a source of pride to know that your passage money is helping to build the American Merch- ant Marine. For information in regard to accommodations address United States Lines 45 Broadway New York City Moore and McCormic! Roosevelt Steamship C telephones. Elevators carry you from deck to deck. The — ing. Your Government Asks You to Send the Coupon Now Let your Government tell you about your ships and the se offer. If you may consider a trip to Europe or to South Am Orient any time within the next year, your Governmen send the information blank now. When it is received a packet of official information will be sent to you. Days of interviewing officials has been required to obtain this information. It will be sent to you thout charge if you send the information blank to the United States Shipping ard. UNITED STATES SHIPPING BOARD Information Section, 1551, Washington, D.C. If wou cannot go to Europe clip out the information blank and urge some friend who may take an ocean voyage, to send it in at once. meet each other when travel- lf you will scan the United American Lines, Managing Operators for Uu. z's ipping Board vss INFORMATION BLANK Shipping Board Please send me without obligation the U. S. Government Booklet. I am considering a trip to Europe 0 South America 1) The Orient O. Jf 1 go date will be about. My Name—_ My Street No. or R. F. D. Town. State

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= Victor Records Approved by the artists | for use on the Victrola Victor Records by the greatest artists are issued only when the artists who made them are fully | satisfied that the records exactly duplicate their performances. In judging their Victor Re cords for approval these artists play them on the Victrola—the instrument for which they are specially made. It is only by using Victor Records in combination with the Victrola that you hear their in- terpretations exactly as the artists produced them—exactly as they expect to be heard. Victrolas $25 to $1500. New Victor Records demonstrated at all dealers in Victor products on the Ist of each month. rae Sa ea TT Victrola No. 130, $350 Victor Talking Machine Co, Victrola No. 130, electric, $415 Camden, New Jersey Righ een ORBLE a “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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VoL. XLI, No. 1 WASHINGTON JANUARY, 1922 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT, 1922, BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. WASHINGTON, B.C. THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA A British Colony with a Unique Record in Popular Government By Wittiam Howarp Tarr AvutHor or “Great Brrrarn's Brean Upon te W. AND Morate or America’s Civiz ARM For Civin Equatity,” Fururs,” Etc., AM HERE for my annual visit to I this Society.* In previous years, which began the year after I left office, I have taken subjects the geograph- ical character of which it was difficult clearly to establish, but this year I shall conform to the proprieties of the occa- sion. By good luck, Mrs. Taft and I were able to spend four weeks of January last in the Islands of Bermuda, and so delightful was our visit and so interest- ing was the local suggestion, that I con- cluded to make the Islands the theme of this year’s talk. The Bermuda Islands are only twenty square miles, about one-fourth the size of Staten Island, but I venture to think that there is no group in any ocean so small which has played so conspicuous a part on the world’s stage as the Ber- mudas. They form a microcosm, the catastrophes, the vicissitudes, the political, economic, and religious controversies, and the development of whose people, as a solitary unit, far out to sea, reflect much of the world history of the English- speaking peoples. And, first, what are they? and where *An address delivered before the National Geographic Society in Washington in Febru- ary, 1021. ~ INGTON: Ss: CANADA AND Her Orner Daventers,” “Tus Tear [HE Procressive Worto Struccie of tHe Jews Its Becinninc, Irs Growru, ann Irs ve Nationa Grocrarpwic Macazine are they? The answers to these geo- graphical questions will explain much of their history and present condition. The Bermudas are a group of what are said to be 365 islands (one for every day in the year) in north latitude 32 degrees and west longitude 64 degrees. There are only five important islands, and the whole group are so close together that those capable of use are united by bridges and causeways, so as to give to the sojourner in his drives the impression that they are but one island, with large indenting bays and inlets. Strung together, they have the form of a fishhook with the stem pointed to the northeast and the curve of the hook to the southwest. From the northeast end to the point of the hook, you can piece out a curving drive 22 or 23 miles long, and the width of land from sea to sea through which you drive will hardly aver- age a mile. The superficial area of the whole group is 191% miles. The islands are nearly 600 miles from Cape Hatteras, the nearest mainland; they are 700 miles from Charleston, South Carolina, opposite which they lie in the Atlantic; they are nearly 700 miles from New York and about 50 miles farther from Halifax (see map, page 2).

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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 300400 500600700 paca susicas o_o _ 20 STATUTE MILES . ad hE colo! oy 2 300_s00__s00_t9 NAUTICAL MILES BERMUDA, ISLAND: S Z.9 oe 3 s 10 STATUTE MILES 6440" pico gore ve {slands - Re » 0" Drawn by James M. Darley A MAP OF THE BERMUDA ISLANDS The outline sketch shows the relation of the archipelago to the Atlantic seaboard of the United States—6oo miles from Cape Hatteras and 700 miles from Charleston and New York. ‘The insert map shows the coral reefs which border the fishhook-shaped group of islands on the north, west, and south (see text, pages 1, 2, and 3). They are about 800 miles from the nearest of the West Indies; they are nearly 300 miles from the southern or southeastern edge of that river of warm water, 100 fathoms deep, flowing over an ocean depth of 2,500 fathoms, from the Gulf of Mexico to New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and beyond to European shores, which we call the Gulf Stream. They are irregular hills and ridges of comminuted shells, reaching in some places to a height of 250 feet, drifted and deposited by the wind on the top of a mountainous column of volcanic rock ris- ing from the floor of the sea three miles below. This peak is a solitary one in all that part of the Atlantic Ocean. It has been covered by this zolian limestone and a thinner plaster of coral rock. After the expedition of H. M. S$.

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 3 A GROUP OF “BOILERS” OFF THE SOUTHERN COAST OF THE BERMUDAS eas a = Photograph from S. S, Spurling Reefs of this peculiarly symmetrical form have not been found in any other part of the world. The rims are made up of living crusts of barnacles, mussels, and serpulae which usually rise from one to two feet above low-tide level. They get their name “boiler” from the fact that heavy seas dash against the hard outer rim and fall over into the central area like a cataract. Challenger on her scientific exploration of the Atlantic Ocean bottom and islands in 1873 had disclosed the lonely column upon which the Bermudas rested, there was an effort to reconcile what seemed a pile of coral rock three miles high in the sea with Darwin’s conclusion that the coral animal would not work more than 100 fathoms below the surface. A desire to find fresh water on the islands led to the sinking of a well 1,200 feet deep, and while it did not bring what was sought, it greatly gratified a lot of puzzled scientific men in disclosing that the coral rock and xolian limestone were a mere cap to what was an old volcano sticking its cratered top up to within less than one thousand feet of the shining surface of the translucent sea. The top of this subaqueous mountain is much greater in superficial area than that of the visible islands, but it is every- where crowned with coral and limestone, which protrude in dangerous reefs on the north, west, and south sides of the islands, as far as eight and ten miles from their shores, sometimes peeping above the sur- face and at others lurking just beneath. One need not say that such a situation makes Bermuda an awkward place for ships to reach and safely land upon, and this circumstance is an important factor in her history. Indeed, it makes a danger point in the course of ships coming out of the Gulf, taking advantage of the Gulf Stream, and when opposite to Bermuda changing their course and directing it toward the Canary Islands and the Mediterranean and Europe generally. IN A SCIENTIFIC WORLD OF ITS OWN Let me note another characteristic of Bermuda due to her geographical and geological features. Bermuda is all by herself in the scientific and naturalist world. Her soil, which is red, is nothing but the result of the working of the weather on the zeolian limestone and coral rock. These islands came from the wind

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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Emil P. Albrecht ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF THE BERMUDAS The soil of Bermuda is the result of the action of the elements on the zolian limestone and coral rocks. and drift and currents of the seas. As one writer says: “Probably we could not select a more perfect example of current- formed islands than the Bermudas.” This origin has turned the closest at- tention of natural scientists to these islands and brought out from them many articles and volumes on the geology, conchology, zodlogy, actinology, arach- nology, ichthyology, meteorology, and the flora and fauna of this little punctuation point on the surface of the Atlantic. While we cannot entirely exclude from the enthusiasm and prolific activity of our scientific men the motive which the charm and bodily comfort of the islands furnished for these expeditions thither, the publications manifest an exceptional interest on their part in this tiny spot on the world’s and ocean’s surface which the peculiar history of its creation has justi- fied. Some of the most fruitful sources of the spread of life, animal and vegetable, are wind, current, and birds; and here we have the result of them all in an isolated form, so set apart as to permit the most satisfactory study of their results. Tish were naturally attracted to such a honeycombed front to the sea as these coral banks make, and their variety, beauty, and flavor are such that the tak- ing of them ought to be a great in- dustry. Indeed, even the deep-sea monsters gather here apparently to note this ob- struction in the wide depths of their domain, and the islands were for a time the center of a whale industry; but the fisheries as a whole have not been de- veloped, though the ichthyology of the group, both in respect of those denizens who inhabit the shallower waters and also the deep sea, has been the subject of many scientific treatises. The transparent waters, the beauty of the shallow sea bottom near the shore, and the brilliant coloring of many of the fishes make a picture in the mind of even the casual observer not soon forgotten (see Color Plates I to XVI in this num- ber of Tre Grocrarnic). By one of the freaks of the coral shores so frequent here, a small pool has been formed in an island grotto in which several varieties of fish were, perhaps, first imprisoned and others have been added. They have grown in size and

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 5 Photograph by Emil P, Albrecht THE CATHEDRAL ROCKS OF SOMERSET ISLAND, BERMUDA The sea has washed out quantities of soft rock, leaving these fluted and fretted columns, which support a roof of hard limestone. number and there they can be seen near at hand and their beauty of color brought out. ‘Their voracity is their most impres- sive characteristic, and the place is sig- nificantly called the “Devil’s Hole.” BERMUDA IS AS FREE OF SNAKES AS IS IRELAND The birds, especially the aquatic spe- cies, are numerous, 283 species visiting the islands yearly. Many varieties were much more in evidence when the islands were discovered than now. Their num- ber, their tameness, the great supply of good meat and eggs they furnished, as a source of food, formed one theme of the rosy accounts which were circulated about the islands in the early years of their his- tory. Efforts were made to preserve the most useful, but failed. There are no more snakes in Bermuda than there are in Ireland. They have a lizard and some varieties of turtle, but that is all of the reptile life. The turtles must in old times have been of huge size; one, it was said, was large enough to give a good meal from its meat to fifty men, and the eggs and the oil of such monsters were equally useful. There are turtles there still, but they have been discouraged in their expansive ambitions and do not furnish forth a marriage feast as generously as in the dawn of civiliza- tion in that little community. The Bermudas are the land of adopted nativity. They are most hospitable to new varieties of life. Some enterprising grower of plants introduced a toad to take care of the insects which were troubling him in his garden and though this was only in the latter part of the last century, one runs across everywhere frequent evidence of these immigrants of a size startling to one used to a more modest variety at home. A PLAGUE OF RATS LEAVES A PLAGUE or CATS Very early in the settlement, and be- fore 1620, a vessel brought some enter- prising rats, which, with enthusiasm worthy of a better cause, multiplied until they ravaged the islands, ate everything

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6 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Emil P. Albrecht LOOKING $ in sight, swam in great multitudes from one island to another, leaving havoc in their train. Cats were introduced, but to no im- mediate purpose. Even the fish took part in resisting the rats, and many of the finny tribe were caught with rats in their stomachs. Suddenly they disappeared as they had come and left nothing but a plague of cats, with their night-blooming characteristics, as a reminder of this rodent visitation. Mark Twain, speaking of this feature of Bermuda, says: “You may march the country roads in maiden meditation, fancy free, by field or farm, but no dog will plunge out at you from unsuspected gate, with breath-tak- AWARD FROM BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL ROCKS ALSO ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 5). ing surprise, of fero- cious bark, notwith- standing it is a Chri tian land and _ civil- ized. “We saw upwards of a million cats in Bermuda, but the people are very ab- stemious in the mat- ter of dogs. Two or three nights we prowled the country far and wide, and never once were ac- costed by a dog. It was a great privilege to visit such a land. ‘The cats were no of- fense when properly distributed, but when piled they obstructed travel.” The insects are not nearly so numerous or troublesome as in the tropics, but in the summer time the ants and mosquitoes do swarm and are ag- gressive. Some Ber- mudians cherish the idea that they have no troubles of this kind. Mark Twain said: “We had mosquito nets and the Rever- end (i. e., his com- panion) said the mos- quitoes persecuted him a good deal. I often heard him slapping and banging at these imaginary creatures with as much zeal as if they had been real. There are no mosquitoes in the Bermudas in May.” BERMUDA SPIDERS ARE IN SIZE ONLY TERRIBLE The spiders are terrible in size, but beautiful in appearance and innocuous in fact. A fervent scientist writes: “The spiders would give entertainment to any enthusiast for months, for their name is legion.” As Mark Twain says of them: “We saw no bugs or reptiles, and so I was thinking of saying in print, in a gen- eral way, that there was none at all; but one night, after I had gone to bed, the

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA Reverend came into my room carrying something and asked, ‘Is this your boot?’ “T said it was, and he said he had just met a spider going off with it. Next morn- ing he stated that just at dawn the same spi- der raised his window and was coming in to get a shirt, but saw him and fled. “T inquired, ‘Did he get the shirt?’ ‘No. ‘How did you know it was a_ shirt he was after? ‘T could see it in his eye.’ “We inquired around, but could hear of no Bermu- dian spider capable of doing these things. Citizens said their largest spiders could not more than spread their legs over an or- dinary saucer, and that they had always been considered hon- est. “Here was testi- mony of a clergyman against the testimony of mere worldlings— interested ones, too. “KHYBER PA On the whole, I judge ONE it best to lock up my things.” hewn out of solid limestone. The flora of the Bermudas is full of beauty for the observer and full of in- terest for the man of science. Of the trees and plants and shrubs in the islands, 80 per cent inhabit also the West Indies and southern Florida. SIXTY-ONE SPECIES OF PLANTS PECULIAR TO BERMUDA Nearly 9 per cent, or 61 species grow- ing in Bermuda or its waters, are endemic and are not known to grow anywhere else in the world. ‘These latter are of great interest to naturalists, as they were pre- sumably developed in Bermuda from re- lated plants formerly existing elsewhere, ba | Photograph by Emil P. Albrecht Ss,” A PICTURESQUE ROADWAY CUT THROUGH OF BERMUDA’s LIM ONE HILLS Bermuda has some of the world’s finest highways, for they are The only unfortunate feature is that they are extremely slippery in wet weather. but now mostly extinct, though some may be found elsewhere later. As Bermuda is of a late geologic formation, and it had to grow all by itself 600 miles or more from any other place (for there is no evidence at all that it was ever attached to other land), scientists have to explain—indeed, they are keen and delighted to explain—how things did get there to grow. As I have said, they find the explanation in the wind, the cur- rents of the ocean, and the birds. When scientists find sixty or more species of plants that are not found else- where, their appetite for further knowl-

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8 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Emil P. Albrecht SAWING STONE FOR HOUSES IN BERMUDA “One has but to saw a hole in his back yard and take out a house of creamy sandstone and set it up and go to living in it” (see page 26). edge and their ingenuity and imagination are stimulated to explain how these new plants got there. Their enthusiasm in finding and formulating the problem and their ardor in propounding explanatory theories are only exceeded by their joy over some new discovery which solves the problem and sustains, it may be, some of their theories. BERMUDA, THE OLEANDER ISLANDS The glory of the trees, shrubs, and flowers of the Bermudas I need not dwell on. In the landscape, the Bermuda cedar furnishes the prevailing green. It is the most abundant and characteristic tree of Bermuda. It is the Bermudian juniper, with berries which are edible but not nourishing. There is no good evidence that this tree has grown elsewhere. ‘The wood is soft and easily worked, but fades on exposure. It was used for houses in early days, and then, in the maritime glory of Bermuda, when the laws permitted, it was used to build ships. It is not good for ships of war, as the Bermudians found to their cost, because it splinters too much. It is planted along streets and approaches and can be clipped into arbor arches and hedges. It covers all the hills. The luxuriance and wealth of color of the flora of the Bermudas have attracted the poets, who have sung their beauties. The purple Bougainvillea, with its varying shades in and out of the sunlight, is entrancing in its beauty and welcomes one into the grounds of the Government House, climbing over the smoothly cut walls of coral through which the white road makes its way to the home of the Governor. The oleanders are so fine and so gor- geous in their hues that it has been sug- gested that these be called the Oleander Islands. Coffee, indigo, cotton, and to- bacco are of spontaneous growth. It may not recall pleasant associations in the minds of the youthful to say that in no place in the world does the castor- oil plant grow more perfectly than here. The climate of Bermuda has a maxi- mum temperature of about 88°, a mini- mum of about 48°, and a mean of about

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 9 70°. This mild climate assists the growth of esculent plants and roots and promotes early growth of onions, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, and beetroots, as well as lily bulbs and arrowroot, though the last two have not been successful of late. As Mark Twain says, “The onion is the pride and joy of Bermuda. : In Bermudian metaphor, it stands for perfection — perfection absolute. The Bermudian, weeping over the departed, exhausts praise when he says, ‘He was an onion.” The Bermudian, extolling the living hero, bankrupts applause when he says, ‘He is an onion.” The Bermudian, setting his son upon the stage of life to do for himself, climaxes all counsel, sup- plication, admonition, comprehends all ambition, when he says, ‘Be an onion.’ ” REPUTATION AS A R CENTER TABLE HURRICAD In the three centuries of the history of Bermuda, there are many references to hurricanes and tornadoes; and while, if the record of that long period is analyzed, it may not develop a really frequent re- currence of these ebullitions of nature. Bermuda in her early history secured in the estimate of the world rather an un- enviable reputation for being the center of, powerful hurricanes. Sir Walter Raleigh, writing in 1587, speaks of the Bermudas as “a hellish sea for thunder, lightning, and storm.” The truth is, Bermuda was born into the his- tory of the world because of the wrec' which were strewn on her dangerous reefs in storms, which blinded the mari- ners or took them out of their course. There is something in the discomfort of passengers from New York to Ber- muda and return which makes them think that times have not changed since the days of Sir Walter Raleigh. The islands were discovered by Juan Bermudez, a Spaniard, within less than a quarter of a century after Columbus dis- covered America. Bermudez could not help discovering them, because he was wrecked on them. A number of hogs he had on board escaped, settled in the islands, and multiplied. Herrera, a Spaniard, is authority for the visit of Bermudez before 1515 and he it is who gave the islands the name. Oviedo, a Spanish writer, was with Camelo, who tried to land on the islands in the middle of the sixteenth century, but failed and sailed away. In 1594 an Englishman named May was on a French ship, the crew of which, after having escaped the Bermudas, as they thought, insisted on getting drunk to celebrate and landed on top of the reefs. May gives an account of the difficulties they met. He says that the Spanish hogs were there, but they were evidently thin- ner than the traditional razor-back, for he complains that they had no meat on them, A diet of juniper berries would not seem to make for tenderloin, sides, or bacon. After five months’ stay, May and his companions, who had escaped from the wreck, ultimately made their way in a small boat from the islands to Cape Breton in ten days. Captain John Smith mentions other wrecks, but these are enough to explain why the Bermudas were called the Isles of Devils. SIR GEORGE SOMERS WRECKED ON THE ISLANDS In 1609 came the wreck which really began Bermudian history. Sir George Somers was an admiral and a brave old salt. Sir Thomas Gates was a soldier. They were among the grantees of the charter for Virginia. They embarked in a fleet of seven vessels and two pinnaces, which in this fateful year set sail from England for Jamestown, Virginia, there to feed and reinforce the weak and fam- ishing colony that had established itself two years before. After sailing in company for a con- siderable period, they met a furious storm and were separated. The Sea Ven- ture, upon which were Somers and Gates, sprung a leak, which constant pumping could not stop. The Admiral did all that man could do at the helm and in command, but the sea was too much for the vessel. | While she was in extremis, Somers sighted land and directed the slowly sinking hulk into the rocky banks of Bermuda. She did not sink or break up, because the wind drove her between two rocks, where she stuck

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‘roy jadwuo s]qeprus0y qsolu @ parosd sey sexay, Auacaa ynq ‘osye oyseu uoruo ayy Jo AJodouow yronIeid eB pey ssaMoIZ epniusog oy} sia Aue JO, “(z1 ased uo UOHVAISNITE Os]e 2aS) SOHYSI9 oy} Ul “IBIpPfOS URoIIWY Uv ‘sBUNSeH [[assnyY [esauar ax] oy} Aq pa}svys Sua spueS! ay) JO Aaysnput ATI] 1aysey ay, VGOWuad NI SHIN ATT ONILNV Id Burpindg *g “g wo1y ydvsSoj04g EES to

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THE ISLANDS fast and from her deck were then safely landed the whole ship’s company of 150. Somers was a man of heroic type. Fuller said of him: “This George Som- ers was a lamb on the land, so patient that few could anger him, and (as if on entering a ship he had assumed a new nature) a lion at sea, so passionate that few could please him.” They remained in the islands nine months. Somers and Gates divided the company into two parties, who lived apart, and there was some friction as to authority. Among Somers’ men were lazy recalci- trants, who did not wish to do the work and run the risk involved in going on to Virginia. Bermuda was good enough for them, and two of them did hide and re- main in the islands. Each party built a pinnace, and finally, under Somers’ leadership, they sailed together, all but the two already men- tioned, for Virginia. The pinnaces were 4o feet and 29 feet long, respectively, and in these they set out and reached Jamestown, where they found a famine. Fortunately, a day or two after their arrival, Lord Dela Warre, as Governor, arrived with a cargo of provisions and the colony was saved. SOMERS DIES ON THE ISLANDS Somers reported that “the Bermooda is the most plentiful place that I ever came to for ffishe, hogge and fowle.” He said further: “These islands have ever been accounted as an enchanted pile of rocks and a desert habitation for devils; but all the fairies of the rocks were but flocks of birds, and all the devils that haunted the woods but heards of swine.” His report suggested to the colonists that it would be a great boon to them if a cargo of these hogs could be brought to Virginia. So Somers, good and brave man as he was, volunteered to go back to the islands for the purpose, and set forth in the pinnace which had brought him to Jamestown. He reached the islands, but his labors had undermined his health, and he died in Bermuda shortly afterward. His heart was buried there, but his body was taken by his companions, headed by his nephew, to England. A monument was set up to OF BERMUDA 11 his memory in Bermuda. The islands were named after him in the charter sub- sequently issued, but the name of the original Spanish discoverer has persisted. The two men who had remained on the islands while Somers went to Vir- ginia, were able to live there until Somers’ return, and when his nephew and the crew took his body home, a third de- serted and joined the other two. They soon quarreled and two of them were only prevented from killing each other in a duel by the third’s hiding the weapons. Washington Irving, whose travels took him to Bermuda, celebrates this trium- virate in a short story he called “The Three Kings of Bermuda.” POSSIBLY THE SCENE OF SHAKESPEARE’S “TEMPEST” Somers was accompanied on these trips by two men, Sil Jourdan and William Strachey, who wrote and published ac- counts of the storm, the wreck, and of the marvels of the islands. Jourdan’s book was published in Eng- land in 1610. William Strachey went to England in that year and settled in Blackfriars, where Shakespeare then was living. Shakespeare published his play of “The Tempest” some time not later than 1614, probably as early as 1611. Malone, one of the early commentators, became con- vinced that Shakespeare intended to make the Bermudas the scene of his play, and this view has been accepted by many. Thomas Moore, who lived in Bermuda for a time, assumed it, and Kipling is an enthusiastic supporter of Malone’s view and finds a beach in Bermuda where one of the scenes might well have been en- acted. The theory is that Shakespeare read Jourdan’s book and account of the storm and talked it over with Strachey, whom he must have known in 1610, because they were close neighbors, and Shake- speare was wont to draw his knowledge from those whom he met in daily life. Resemblances to the circumstances de- tailed in Jourdan’s and Strachey’s ac- counts of the storm and wreck of the Sea Venture are traced in the lines and scenes of the play.

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12 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Central News Photo Company A FIELD OF LILIES WITH MORE THAN A MILLION BLOSSOMS OF THE FAMOUS FLOWER THAT IS EMBLEMATIC OF THE The godfather of the Bermuda Easter lily w s James Richardson, of Hamilton, who began its cultivation about 1870. It is not as extensively cultivated on the islands as in former days, when as many as 100 flowers were sometimes produced on one stem. One of the narrators tells of a fire that played along the deck and on the masts and yard of the Sea Venture during the overwhelming heavenly artillery of thun- der and lightning. ‘This was doubtless an electric phenomenon which the Spani- ards called St. Elmo’s fire. Ariel the Sprite, in answer to Prospero’s inquiry whether he had performed the task to which he had been bidden, says: “To every article, T boarded the king’s ship; now on the beak, Now in the waist, the deck, in every cabin T flam’d amazement; sometimes, I'd divide, And burn in many places; on the topmast, s and bowsprit, would | flame dis- Then meet, and join.” Ariel saved the whole ship’s company, and when asked how he had disposed of the ship and the sailors, he answers: Si ly in harbour Is the king’s ship; in the deep nook where once Thou call’dst me up at midnight to fetch dew From the still vex’d Bermoothes; there she’s hid.” Here Shakespeare, it is supposed, fol- lowed the details of Strachey’s story, and the mention of Bermuda in the Spanish form of the name, it is insisted, confirms the view. The eagerness to fix a place and give geographical definiteness to Shakespeare's plots is characteristic of many of his commentators. It is less reasonable in respect to the light and beautiful fancy of “The Tempest” than in the case of any other of Shakespeare’s plays. RIVAL ISLANDS IN MEDITERRANEAN Hunter, while repudiating Bermuda’s claim, fixes the scene in Lampedosa, a haunted island in the Mediterranean somewhere near the course which the ship bearing the King of Naples from Tunis to Naples might have taken. It is an island which has a cell and a cave and often has near it the fire of St. Elmo. Another critic scouts Lampedosa as too far to the southeast, but finds another island, named

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA Ve Pantelaria, in the Med- iterranean which he thinks much more likely. Furness, our own great Shakespearian scholar, the editor of the Variorum edition, _re- jects the suggestion that the poet intended to make Bermuda the scene of the play. He points out that the mention of “still vex’t Bermoothes” by Ariel is in reference to a place from which dew was to be brought to Prospero’s Isle, and so was different from it. He says: “The islands are called ‘still vex’t— that is, constantly, al- ways vexrt—by tempests, from accounts of them which voyagers brought home and which were ~ so unvarying in their character that, as Hun- ter says, the Bermudas became a commonplace in Shakespeare’s time, whenever storms and tempests were the theme.” Lowell, in his “Among My Books,” disposes of the matter in the most satis- factory way. He says: “Shakespeare is wont to take some familiar story and to lay his scene in some place, the name of which is at least familiar, well knowing the reserve of power that lies in the familiar as a back- ground when things are set in front of it under a new and unexpected light “But in ‘The Tempest’ the scene is laid nowhere, or certainly in no country laid down in any map. Nowhere then? At once nowhere and anywhere, for it is in the soul of man that still vexed island, hung between the upper and the nether world and liable to incursions from both.” FINDING OF INTERES AMBERGRIS QUICKENS ‘IN BERMUDA The glowing reports of the historians of the Somers voyages, including Somers himself, in respect to the Bermudas sharpened the interest of the Virginian proprietors in the islands. Photograph by Emil P. Albrecht “THERE'S NO REST FOR THE WEARY” It would seem that the “strength” of the famous Bermuda onion is not sufficient to aid this bored young carrier! Their original charter only gave them jurisdiction over all islands within 100 miles of the mainland, which, of course, excluded the Bermudas. So they soon, in 1612, procured an additional grant, to include all within 300 leagues. Their business instincts were aroused not only by the reported richness of the islands in hogs and fish and tobacco, and in the abundance of whales in the neigh- boring waters, but in the finding of a substance called ambergris, which plays a considerable part in the early corre- spondence between the English owners and the colonists of Bermuda. Ambergris is literally gray amber. It is a solid fatty, inflammable substance of a dull gray or blackish color, variegated like marble, and possessing a peculiar sweet, earthy odor. It is lighter than water and floats, It accumulates in the liver or intestines of the sperm whale and is thrown off by that animal from time to time in great pieces, which, float- ing on the surface of the sea, become lodged in the reefs and shores near the habitat of the sea monster.

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14 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE aS | Mbrecht Photograph by Emil P. A COAL SCHOONER AT HAMILTON, BERMUDA Bermuda is admirably situated for a coaling station on the trade routes leading to the Panama Canal and to Gulf of Mexico ports, but present facilities are inadequate. Hamilton cannot be converted into a coaling port because its harbor is small and is too far from the open sea, but the same objections do not apply to the land-locked harbor of St. George (see illustration, page 16). It is found sometimes in chunks weigh- ing all the way from fifty to two hundred pounds. It was then and is still eagerly sought as the basis of perfumery and was once used in pharmacy and as a flavor in cooking. It was so highly prized as to bring several pounds sterling an ounce in the London market. The instructions of the proprietors to one of the earliest Bermuda Governors show their hopes and fears. They say: “As touchinge the findinge of Amber- greece upon shore which is driven up by every storme where the wind bloweth, we would have you remember that by such as you appointe to that business . . . you may be deceaved of the best and fayrest except you be very carefull in your choice of honest men.” 120 ADVENTURERS BUY THE ISLANDS After amplifying the Virginian charter to include the Bermudas, 120 of the Vir- ginia adventurers bought for £2,000 ster- COMPANY OF ling all the rights of the original Virginia proprietors in the Bermudas, and a new company was incorporated by James I in the name of the “Governor and Company of the City of London for the Plantacon of the Somer Islands.” This charter was not granted until 1615, but the purchasers had sent as their representative and Governor one Moore, a carpenter, with fifty settlers, who landed in the islands in July, 1612, to find that “the three kings of Bermuda” had been able to make the islands the scene of great disturbance in their tripartite reign. The charter gave the islands in fee to the Company. It provided for its organi- zation in London, with a Governor and twenty-four assistants, naming the first Governor and providing for the election of his successor and the discharge of the business of the Company at quarterly meetings. It gave to the Company the islands with all fishing, mines and minerals,

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 15 pearls, precious stones, and all and singu- lar other commodities, reserving only one- fifth of the gold and silver. It gave to the corporation power to make such laws and ordinances as were not contrary to the laws of England. : It directed that with all convenient speed the islands be divided, that one- quarter of the land be reserved to the Company for defraying public charges, so far as necessary, and that the remain- ing profits of that one-fourth be allotted to each member according to his holdings. The residue, three-fourths of the islands, were to be divided into eight parts, or tribes, containing fifty shares of twenty- five acres each. No one man was to own more than ten shares, unless the Company consented, and then not more than fifteen. The people living in Bermuda were to have the rights of British subjects, but the Company was to have the full power to correct, punish, pardon, and govern and rule such subjects. Imports and exports were limited to trade between Bermuda and the Mother Country. LITTLE CHANGE IN GOVERNMENT THROUGH THE CENTURIES The first Governor sent out to the colony was Daniel Tucker, gentleman. He had been an early settler in Virginia and was a cousin of the ancestor of that well-known Virginia family. The Company gave him instructions upon which the government of the colony was framed. Less than in any of the countries of Great Britain has that gov- ernment been changed today. The officers of the colony were to be Governor, sheriff, and secretary. There were to be four ministers, one to each two parishes, and land or glebes were to be set aside for each of £100 a year value. ‘The council of the colony was to be the Governor, the sheriff, the secretary, two of the ministers, two captains of the chief forts, and the first of the overseers of the public land. The Governor and whole council were to sit as judges at general sessions twice a year, and would hear appeals from the Governor and a part of the council who sat and rendered judg- ments at the assizes. The Governor was also required to hold every second year a general assem- bly for the making of laws and orders for the particular necessities and occasions of the islands and the inhabitants thereof, and for the ordering of other important business, which were to be of no further effect when not confirmed by the Com- pany in London. In the assembly the Governor presided and had a veto. The council were to sit next him, and if they all agreed they might also negative action. Each tribe was to select for its representatives four able persons. These were to have free voices in the assembly and “therein all things were to be established by plurality of voices, the foresaid negatives pre- served.” THE BERMUDA ASSEMBLY LASTED 120 YEARS The first general assembly was held in 1620 and another in 1622. Only one earlier legislative assembly was held in North America, and that was in 1619, in Virginia. The Bermuda Assembly, as constituted in 1622, lasted for about 120 years, and the union of the Governor and the council in the session was regarded as so important that one Christopher Parker, in 1627, was prosecuted as sedi- tious for proposing to make an upper and lower house. In 1674 the London Company made formal charges against the assembly be- cause the Governor and council sat sepa- rately. After that the Governor did not call an assembly for ten years. The ap- propriation by the Governor of all legis- lative power for a decade resulted, as did a similar course on the part of Charles I, in the cutting off of the corporate head. By a proceeding in quo warranto the Company was ousted of its privileges and the Bermudas became a colony of the Crown, with a continuing assembly. In 1730 two legislative bodies were created, the Governor and council and the assembly, but the assembly continued to be made up of the four members from each of the eight tribes and four from the common land, or ninth parish, and is so constituted today. There are two councils today, the ex- ecutive and legislative councils, with many of the same persons members in both. With these changes, the assembly which sits in Hamilton, Bermuda, today is the

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16

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THE ISLANDS same body which met in a parish church in St. George three hundred years ago. There is no people I know in this hemi- sphere who have shown the same love of the past, the same adherence to the old- time traditions, as the members of this Lilliputian domain, which had its origin in the wrecking of the Sea Venture under Sir George Somers. The same tribes exist under same names as prescribed in the charter of James I of 1615. The survey which fixed the division lines of those tribes was made by an able surveyor, Norwood, before 1620. He di- vided the island into eight parishes, and in one of the parishes there was an “over- plus,” as it was called, of nearly 300 acres which Governor Tucker took possession of and on which he built a house. The historian suggests that this incident would have been called a job in modern days. In 1662, Norwood, the Surveyor, pre- pared a careful map showing the shares and their ownership, which, as General Lefroy says, are preserved in a well drawn map and constitute the Domesday Book of the islands. The parishes vary much in population. Some are small in number of people and are much over-represented in the as- sembly, but the people, though often urged, will not remove the old landmarks. The history of no other self-governing colony can be so clearly traced as Ber- muda, and in the case of none other is its intimate family history of its early days made so familiar. For this we are indebted to the happy circumstance by which the records of the meetings of the Governor and council in the assizes of the general sessions and of the general assembly, which had been for near a century mere bundles of old papers in the custody of the clerk of the council, were examined by General L. H. Lefroy, Governor from 1871 to 1877, and were by him compiled. General Lefroy supplemented these rec- ords with others from the Mother Coun- try and arranged them all in chronolog- ical order, with helpful comment and pre- liminary digest. So successful was he in his work that the staid Assembly of Ber- muda assumed the heavy expense of publishing the two large volumes. Of course, the records are somewhat fragmentary, but they are sufficiently full to bring one close to the life of this island OF BERMUDA aU community, and to enable us to note their customs, their ambitions, their quarrels, their religion, their failings, their vices, their methods of government, and their curious administration of justice. I have said that the general assembly and the councils have changed but little since they began, three hundred years ago. The great change has been in the establishment of a separate court. GOVERNOR ONCE COMBINED EXECUTIVE, LEGISLATIVE, AND JUDICIAL DUTIES In the early days the Governor seemed to unite in his person legislative, execu- tive, and judicial duties. He presided over the assembly, took part in its delib- erations, voted on measures, and vetoed them. As Governor, he executed the laws and regulations he helped to make. Under the English constitution, in the royal courts, the judges were appointed by the king and acted for him. The king might sit in the court with them, but in fact he never did. In Ber- muda the theory by which the courts were acting in the name of the executive and for him was realized in fact; so that, with his council, he administered justice. Sit- ting with a somewhat larger council in general session, he acted as a court of error. Even after separate courts were estab- lished, the Governor and the council con- tinued to act as a court of equity and to be a supreme court of error. Now properly much of this has been abolished by the establishment of the Supreme Court, presided over by a Chief Justice appointed by the Crown of Great Britain. This Chief Justice is a member of the legislative council, and so in sepa- rate body acts in a legislative capacity as well. The Supreme Court exercises jurisdic- tion both at law and equity, and there are in certain cases appeals to the judicial committee of the privy council. I asked the Chief Justice in respect to this appellate jurisdiction of the privy council, and he said that in his term of some years no appeal had ever been taken and perfected. And he could not remem- ber one in the island history. In spite of the fact that the forms of government have been but slightly changed in Bermuda, the spirit of con-

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA tention between the Governor and coun- cil, on the one side, and the assembly, on the other, has greatly improved. STUDY IN POPULAR GOVERNMENT The power of the assembly, which in the beginning, as indeed in the beginning of most popular governments, is only a peti- tioning and advisory body seeking action by the executive, who draws all power to himself, acquired an independence and power in the making of laws and the ap- propriation of the people’s money which gives it really a very different character from what it had in the beginning; and these changes it is interesting to study in Bermuda, because they furnish a typical illustration of the growth of popular power through the assertion by the Anglo-Saxon of his self-conceived rights. The franchise in the island was not given to the residents, but only to the owners of shares into which the tribes and the commons were divided, so that the electorate was very much smaller than the male residents. Indeed, even now, as I recollect it, in a population of some 20,000, there are not more than 1,250 electors. For a man to be an elector he must have property which is assessed as worth at least 60 pounds a year, and this re- quirement was doubled from 30 pounds a year when slavery was abolished, in 1834. In other words, we must realize, in calling that of Bermuda a popular government, that it is a government of landed holders and not of manhood electors; that this fact has had a marked effect upon certain conditions which now exist in the islands, to which I shall refer later, and that it is retained as one of the strongest indications of the deeply conservative character of the Bermuda community. The history of the Colony of Bermuda from 1620, when the first assembly met, until 1684 or 1685, when the Company was ousted of its charter by quo warranto in the King’s Bench in England, is made up of the struggles of the Company in London to make as much out of the colonists as possible; of the struggles of the colonists to remove the restrictions on trade with others than the Company, imposed upon them by the proprietaries, and of the efforts of governors sent out 19 to the islands to maintain order, enforce the rules of the Company, and defend their authority and exercise too-often arbitrary power. In the beginning the proprietaries were greatly misled as to the wealth of the islands and their resources. They counted on substantial income from the finding of ambergris already described. It is the rare finding of this anywhere that gives it so great a value, and the Bermudas were no exception in this regard. Another source of revenue to which the island Company looked was that which came to be made from wrecks upon the islands. The early history of the islands gave ground for much ghoul- ish hope. ‘The Company, therefore, re- served to it forever the moiety of all law- ful wrecks and the remaining moiety was given to the recoverers. If the wreck was driven on to a man’s property, then the recoverer and the owner were to share the moiety. There is an amusing story of the wrecking of a vessel on the islands upon a Sunday. The news of it leaked into the congregation, situated near where the vessel seemed likely to strike and break. The minister, who heard the news, rose and implored his congregation not to leave during the service, but to wait until he concluded, when all might start even. The complaints show that the Com- pany had great difficulty in collecting its half of the plunder. The Company ex- pected profit by the whale fisheries, but whale fishing is not free from danger and hard work, and the restrictions put upon it and the license required to engage in it discouraged that pursuit. TOBACCO CHIEF PRODUCT OF EARLY DAYS The chief agricultural product of the colony, as indeed of Virginia, in early days was tobacco, and for a time the Company, by compelling a sale of it at a low price, was able to realize a somewhat handsome profit. But, as was natural, the colonists, knowing that the tobacco which they raised was worth so much more than the price paid, were negligent in its cultiva- tion and in its curing and packing. The communications of the Company are full of complaints on this score. In the early part of the 18th century the

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 21 growing and curing of tobacco was largely given up. It may be said for the Company that it seemed very anxious that the colonists should have religious instruction, and that their children should have education, so far as their declarations can be credited ; but the grievances of the colonists in- cluded frequent complaints that they had not ministers of religion enough, and they used this to meet the charges of the Com- pany as to the prevalence of drunkenness, idleness, incontinence, and general im- moral tendencies. There were very few governors whose administration of the regular three years’ term or longer was not full of discussion and conflict of authority. Few governors went out of office against whom some suits at law for abuse of authority and false imprisonment were not brought as a reward of their administration. In the days of the Company, the goy- ernors used questionable authority to punish the slightest infraction of what they regarded as proper rules of conduct. Governor Tucker, sitting as the head of the assizes and in the general session, did not hesitate to sentence a man and execute him for having made a speech against him and his government. The controversies continued, but the people held tenaciously to their rights, and the recognition of the power of the assembly grew more and more apparent as the years wore on. The men who took part in these controversies were chiefly the descendants of those who had figured in the same discussions since 1620. The merchants, wholesale and retail, the farmers, and all the business men to- day have still among them, as influential leaders, the descendants of those who were prominent during the thirty decades since Daniel Tucker assumed authority as Governor under the charter of James I. It is interesting and curious to note the minute supervision that the court of assize, sitting as a kind of grand jury and court as well, exercised over the lives of the colonists. In the assize and session of 1618 we find a widow presented by name on suspi- cion of incontinence; William Pollard, gentleman, for that he doth not forbear to use himself unreverently in the church and, contrary to religion and the disci- pline of the Church of England, hath re- fused or neglected to receive the Holy Communion; certain churchwardens for not providing communion wine; a mar- ried couple for not living together ac- cording to the ordinance of God ; two men for playing unlawful games, and other such like disorders. These presentments, as General Lefroy says, were no laughing matter, for thirty lashes at the church door frequently fol- lowed. THE CLERGY AND THE GOVERNOR WERE OFTEN AT ODDS Some of the ministers who were sent were graduates of Cambridge and Oxford and were vested with considerable author- ity, and at times did not hesitate to differ with the Governor. ‘The Governor did not, on his part, hesi- tate sometimes to imprison them, and when he left office he usually found a suit for false imprisonment as one of his rewards. So common was this that the assembly passed an act in behalf of min- isters, providing that all of those sent home or imprisoned by the Governor should be entitled to their pay in interim, unless justly proceeded against. One of the great complaints which the colonists had to make was of the neces- sity for buying their supplies from the stock furnished by the Company, and out of this the Company doubtless made sub- stantial profit. The number of colonists had reached 2,000 in 1629, and although there were variations from time to time, there has been a gradual increase, until now there are about 20,000 people. A number of those who owned shares in the Company came over to join them in the colony, and the English noblemen who were among the 120 proprietaries parted with their interests. From time to time complaint was made of the character of the colonists who were sent there. ‘They were taken from the jails and bridewells, and did not add to the morality or economic strength of the community. One very energetic Gover- nor named Butler procured a resolution protesting against “the overaged, dis- eased, and impotent persons who were be- ing sent over to us, and so are to rest and remain here as drones and horse-leaches,

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22 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A FISHERM/ Photograph from S. S. Spurling UCK IN BERMUDA Bermuda fishermen enjoy much the same advantages as do those off the Florida coast (see “Certain Citizens of the Warm Sea,” pages 27 to 62). living upon the sweat and blood of other men. No greater canker can there be toa new settled plantation than the stuffing it with idle and unprofitable persons, whose bellies for the most part are ex- traordinarily craving and their mouths ravenous.” If a man in bravery of apparel ex- ceeded his degree, and if after admoni- tion he did not reform the same, he was in respect of all public burdens to bear the double to any other, and was declared infamous. In the class of infamous persons were those who were idlers after admonition; who were vagrants; who were drunkards or common haunters of tippling-houses ; who were common spenders of their time in dicing, carding, or other kinds of un- lawful gaming ; who were common raisers of quarrels among neighbors. When in- famous they were incapable of holding office, and they were not permitted to sit or stand in church with the rest of the congregation, but in a lower place by themselves, in the meanest place every- where. The records are full of convictions of persons who, having spoken contemptu- ously of a governor or minister, were im- prisoned and only released after serving a time, upon signing a confession and repentance. In 1669 Governor Haydon issued the following to his provost marshal: “7 Marcu, 1669. “To Mr. Joun Bristowk, JuN’R, Provost Marshal. By Sir John Heydon: “Whereas Wm. Deane of St. George’s Mari- ner hath bin a man of deboshed life and con- versation, more especially since his marriage, and hath bin admonished by Magistrates to reform, and yet notwithstanding favour form- elie shewed him, hee hath not seased to tell his neighbor (videlicet) Mistress Katherine Shaw that he did not care a for her nor for Mr. Samuel Smith (the minister) neither and bid her goe and tell him soe; with addition of many other reprochful languages unto her the said Katharine, for noe other cause, then only that shee came to his house upon her hearing of him notoriously abusing and beat- ing his own wife as formerly he hath done. These are therefore to require and authorize you forthwithe to take the said William Deane, and him whip, or cause to be whipped uppon

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA 23 the nacked bach with thirtie stripes. Whereof fayle you not, and for your so doing this my warrant shall be your discharge. Given under my hand the 7th day of Sept. 1660. Joun Heypon.” CHANGES IN MOTHER COUNTRY QUICKLY REFLECTED IN BERMUDA The change from the Company’s con- trol to the control of the Crown did not relieve the Bermudian community of dis- sension and discussion between the gov- ernors and the assembly. There were reflected in the life of the colonial community the political, religious, and social conflicts of the Mother Coun- try and the other colonies. The controversy between Charles I and his parliament brought about a division in the islands, but after one or two years the prevailing government in England was fully recognized in the islands. So, too, the fights between the Church of England and the Independents and the Presbyterians arose, religious prosecu- tions and persecutions were maintained and fought, and the Church of England went out with Cromwell and returned with Charles II. The prosecutions for witchcraft had their vogue. There were 20 presentments and five were hanged. The Quakers sought the islands, and were persecuted and made defense. They did not seem to have been as violent in their demonstrations and in their inter- ference with public worship as else- where, and none were given more than mild punishment, though some foreign Quakers were banished. Slaves were introduced into the islands as early as 1632, and slavery continued to be an important institution in the social and economic life of the islands until its abolition, in 1834. For a time the in- dustry of the islands was agricultural, the cultivation of tobacco, and slaves were an important aid in it. The refusal of the Company to allow the use of the cedar trees as timber for the construction of ships prevented mari- time pursuits. In the 18th century, how- ever, as a result of a change to the direct government of the Crown, the restric- tions on the use of lumber were removed, and for a considerable period the Bur- mudians abandoned agriculture and de- voted themselves most successfully to the carrying trade between the American colonies and the West Indies. In that time agriculture was confined to the negroes and became a despised pursuit. Because of this, from time to time there was famine in the islands, which could only be relieved by illicit trade, contrary to law, with the Ameri- can colonies. It was during one of these periods of famine and suffering among the Ber- mudian colonists that the Revolutionary War broke out in the United States. Washington was in desperate straits on account of a lack of powder, and a vessel from Philadelphia went to Bermuda and, with the connivance of the colonists, for it could not otherwise have been done, broke open the powder magazine and took the entire supply aboard the ship and conveyed it to Philadelphia. This was during the incumbency of Governor Bruere, who was at sword’s point with the assembly and the colonists. He immediately and rightly charged that the achievement was due to the treachery of the inhabitants. ONCE AS FORMIDABLE AS GIBRALTAR The importance of Bermuda to the Mother Country has been as a British fortress and naval station. Protected from attack by the outlying reefs, and with its strategic advantage in respect of the West Indies, Great Britain has spent a great deal of money in the past in estab- lishing a naval station, in fortifying the port, and in building quarters for an army garrison. During this period of preparation there were sent to the islands, 9,000 long-term convicts to work upon the docks and the naval station and to build roads through the islands. The evidences of this work of engineering construction meet the visitor on every side. : Bermuda was at one time considered as formidable as Gibraltar; but what the result of naval long-range artillery would be in an attack upon the islands I am not military expert enough to judge. Certain it is now that the importance of the islands as a military garrison is not made apparent. There are but few troops there and still fewer ships. It is gratifying to know that here, as elsewhere, Great Britain refuses to con-

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THE ISLANDS OF BERMUDA sider the possibility of conflict with the United States; and while she continues to send some of her best soldiers and sailors, the one to be governors and the other to be admirals, in charge at these headquarters of the North American sta- tion, it is perfectly evident that the prox- imity of Bermuda to the United States has little or no bearing on British policy in this colony. The fact, however, that Great Britain did spend a great deal of money in pre- paring Bermuda as a fortress had marked influence upon the economical fortunes of the islands, and has enabled the island- ers to secure a system of beautiful roads and extensive public works impossible otherwise. When the trade between the United States and the West Indies became free, some little time after the War of 1812, the Bermudian mariners could not meet the competition of our sailing ships and those of the Mother Country, and the islands were driven again to agriculture. THE REAL WEALTH OF BERMUDA—EARLY VEGETABLES Under a British general, who was Gov- ernor, General Reid, in 1840, great prog- ress was made in developing what is the real wealth of the islands, their adapta- bility to the raising for the markets of the United States early vegetables. The Ber- muda potato and the Bermuda onion have attained a just reputation for excel- lence in those markets, where a high price can be obtained for them as one of the luxuries of the table. The effect of the abolition of slavery was not so marked in the islands as with us. It was a peaceful change, and while every family in the islands had slaves, they were rather domestic servants, few in number for each family, and not large groups, as with us, engaged on large plan- tations; and, while some years before Bermuda slave owners manifested great opposition to the anti-slavery movement, on the whole they were quite well satisfied to have the change made, accompanied, as it was, by the payment to them in round numbers of $600,000 for the six thousand slaves whom they held. While the system of education in the islands is lacking much in thoroughness and should be greatly improved, there 25 are enough schools to give to all of the negroes who seem to have a desire for education primary instruction. With thirty years’ start upon our own negroes in the matter of freedom, and without the bitterness created by a war whose cause was slavery, the Bermuda negroes have on the whole made more progress than our own colored people and seem more contented, though not more progressive. ONE MAN MAY HAVE SEVERAL VOTES No man can be a member of the assem- bly unless he possesses a freehold rated at $1,200, just as one who votes for him must own a freehold rated at $300 an- nually. A freeholder may have several votes—that is, he may vote in each parish in which he owns enough to constitute himself a voter. In 1908 there were only 1,208 electors, and of these 852 white and 446 were colored, although the population was two colored men for every white man. The result of these restrictions on the franchise and character of the represent- atives is that there are now in the legis- lative assembly but two colored men. As already said, these provisions make the islands a representative government of the landed owners. The beauties of this island home, its fine climate and scenery, its convenience of access from the United States, its effi- cient government, attract from the United States a large number of visitors during the colder and uncomfortable seasons of the year. Indeed, in time past there have been as many sojourners in the islands from the United States as there were permanent residents. The payments of these visitors, to- gether with the value of the exports of early vegetables, are the sources of the income of the islands. Their revenues for the maintenance of the government they derive from an ad valorem duty of Ir per cent. This enables them to carry on the government and to maintain its dignity and the forms that, with their conservative tendencies, they love to maintain. The land-owners pay no general tax on their land or property. No man is com- pelled to pay an income tax, for the in- come tax levied by Great Britain does not

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26 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE apply to British subjects beyond the British Isles. There are some small parish dues which the land-owners pay, but they are insignificant. Nowhere in the world, I venture to think, are the taxes lighter than in the islands. Under these circumstances, with the government as it is and the control where it is, we are not likely to see a change. ‘The people one meets there as a visitor are agreeable ladies and gentlemen, of cultivation and refinement. They keep abreast of the times, but they are content with what they have. ‘Trollope, who visited the islands in 1858, was not very gracious to them, but one thing he said of them has much truth in it: “To live and die would seem to be enough for them; to live and die as their fathers and mothers did before them, in the same houses, using the same furniture, nurtured on the same food, and enjoying the same immunity from the dangers of excitement.” The beauty of the island scenery and its unique character need but a word. The prevailing background in every land- scape is the green Bermudian cedar, or juniper tree, and dotted in this general background are the white houses of the cities and the country, The beautiful roads add to the daz- zling white of the picture. They are made of coral rock, which packs and cements itself. Mark Twain said that, after thinking over what it reminded him ‘of, he hit upon exactly the right descrip- tion of its color and effect when he called it icing on a cake, The roads are not wide enough and the curves are too sudden for automobiles. The chief objection to them is their slip- ping character after the frequent rains. Horses frequently fall on a down grade. The cities, Hamilton and St. George, are not large, and the population is well distributed through the islands. In most countries the population of 1,000 to a square mile is thought to be fairly con- centrated, and that we have here. In the early days the colonists lived in houses built of cedar. Now they live in houses built of coral rock. It is usually cut on the premises. As Howell says: “What will be said to you when you tell that in the Summer Islands one has but to saw a hole in his back yard and take out a house of creamy sandstone and set it up and go to living in it?” There are two things in the islands that determine much of social economy: One is the presence of this building ma- terial, which can be sawed out with a hand-saw and after some exposure is ready for use (see illustration, page 8), and the other is the total absence of wells. It is necessary to get all drinking water from the clouds, and that, as a measure of health, requires that every roof from which the water is to be derived should be kept clean by whitewash. The palace of the rich man and the hovel of the poor man are equally white, equally substantial looking, and equally clean; and this circumstance furnishes singular superficial evidence of the fairly equal distribution of wealth and comfort in this little community. LESSONS IN THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS From the happiness that seems to pre- vail, from the philosophic contentment with which the people of these islands look out upon the rest of the world, we may derive many lessons with respect to our pursuit of happiness, which the Dec- laration of Independence postulates as one of our rights. Notwithstanding the close business re- lations between the United States and the people of Bermuda, they are English in their traditions, their descent, and their sympathies. ‘They were the center of the blockade-running during the Civil War, and their prominent people made a great deal of money out of that industry; and while in the result they lost much of what they had gained, their attitude of mind continues to be one of attachment toward the Mother Country. It fits into all their traditions, and, as I have indicated, tra- ditions with them are as binding as steel. The suggestion, therefore, that has been made by some of our public men, that we might buy the West Indian pos- sessions of Great Britain, including Ber- muda, in part settlement of the war debt which Great Britain owes us, has been made without knowing at all the temper and feeling of Bermudians in respect to such a severance. Great Britain would not think of giv- ing up the islands, and the Bermudians would not think of being given up.

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA By Louis L. Mowsray Director, Mramr Aquarium anp Brorocican Lasoratory VEN man’s most terrific wars against his fellows have a respite; they are but cataclysms in the normal course of the world; but the bat- tle of fish against fish—furious, quarter- less, to the death—is everlasting. So, within the warm balmy waters of the Gulf Stream off the Florida coast, where the lazy waves of the surface seem to typify peace, the never-ending Armaged- don of the finny world rises to its highest pitch. It is almost impossible for the human mind to conceive the continuous struggle for existence that in these warm seas goes on beneath the surface of the water. If such conditions existed on land and the resultant mental strain were not pro- vided for by Nature, few would survive the constant tension upon the nervous system. A fish starting in pursuit of another frequently attracts the attention of one of a larger species and is in turn pur- sued. Often, in southern waters, when an angler hooks a fish, and before it can be drawn into the boat, it is cut in two by the jaws of a larger enemy; for most carnivorous fish seem instantly to sense prey when one of their number is in trouble, and a blood lust becomes epi- demic forthwith. Even in the face of this ceaseless strug- gle, the waters of the warm seas teem with fish, reptiles, crustaceans, and other creatures. There Nature both pours forth and destroys life with unsparing hands. That species may survive, and even pros- per, though surrounded by implacable enemies, she has given all creatures of these waters the power to reproduce themselves an almost unbelievable num- ber of times. OBSERVATIONS OF MORE NORTHERLY FISH A single female fish, during the spawn- ing period, holds potential life in num- bers running into millions. It is esti- mated that a 6-pound mackerel produces 1,500,000 eggs at one time; a cod weigh- ing 21 pounds, it has been computed, produces 2,700,000 eggs, and a 77-pound cod, 9,100,000; and a close scientific study and research show that a 13-pound pol- lock, of the cod family, produces over 2,569,000 eggs, and a 23!4-pound pollock over 4,000,000 at one spawning. THE SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST There is no better way to realize the keenness of the sea battle for existence than to picture the result if in the sea the lion should lie down with the lamb! It is not difficult to imagine what would happen if these staggering numbers of eggs were not interfered with by enemies, if all the young hatched out were safe from violent death, and if the young females in turn soon began contributing their millions of eggs. The operation of this tremendous geometrical progression would in a few years fill every cubic foot of the seas, vast as they are, with living creatures; the oceans would be unnavi- gable—a compact mass of animal life. The battle of the seas, then—the un- ending strife, the seemingly heartless preying of one creature upon another— has its definite need in the world’s econ- omy. The strife of the seas takes many forms. Fishes that feed in shoals have a well-planned method for acquiring their living food, and the same procedure is carried out so often that it resembles the workings of an exceptionally well-trained body of soldiers. When a shoal of smaller fish is located near the shore, the larger fishes encircle the shoal, herding it to an almost compact mass, occasionally darting into it and get- ting a mouthful. Sometimes they do not strike the shoal, but continue driving it as bait until somewhat larger fishes at- tack it. The great fish then proceed to feed upon those which have been lured by the original prey. During the mélée the surface water is lashed into foam, often for an area ex- ceeding a mile, and the little fellows are jumping every way in their mad efforts to escape their enemies.

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30 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by A. W. and Julian A, Dimock TARPON LEAPING This great fish, the “Silver King,” dear to the heart of all sportsmen, was caught by the camera in the very act of shaking the hook from its mouth. Then from the air aboye comes another menace to the safety of the panic-stricken legions. ‘The seagulls, man-o’-war birds, and pelicans dart upon them as they break the surface in their mad efforts to escape the dangers of the sea. It is possible to locate a shoal of small fishes by watching the birds which feed from the sea. These fly over the shoal, waiting for the inevitable attack of the larger fishes to drive the food they seek to a point of vantage near the surface of the water. NATURE'S PROTECTION AND REGULATION In addition to sheltering nearly every species of sea creature under the laws of chance by providing extreme prolificness, Nature has not failed to furnish other protective measures to offset somewhat the dangers that everywhere threaten to eliminate whole species. Numerous cases are recorded where a certain kind of fish has been almost ob- literated and for long stretches of time has been thought to be extinct, but in some manner a sufficient number of indi- viduals of the species remained to find protecting shelter where they might live and propagate their kind. THE SUPPOSED PASSING OF THE TILEFISH* One case is that of the tilefish, of which much has been written. In the year 1882 vessels arriving in Philadelphia, New York, and Boston reported having passed through miles of dead fish of this species. From the various accounts, it was esti- mated that an area of from 5,000 to 7,500 square miles was thickly strewn with the dead and dying creatures. The number of fish in this area was computed to be in excess of 1,000,000,000. Various reasons were advanced for this gigantic tragedy, the most plausible being that a very sudden drop in temperature along the northern edge of the Gulf Stream proved fatal to these warm-water fish. It seemed for several years that the species was almost totally wiped out, but recently tilefish have been rediscovered in great numbers in their former habitat. *See “America’s Surpassing Fisheries,” by Hugh M. Smith, U. S. Commissioner of Fish- cries, in the Nationar Grocraruic Macazine, June, 1916.

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM It is not known where they retired until their numbers became strengthened, but the fact remains that this valuable food- fish is back again in normal numbers. Among the coral reefs off Florida one frequently sees millions of the fry of some pelagic or surface swimming offshore species taking shelter in and about the skeleton ribs and plates of a wreck resting on the ocean bottom, yet easily discern- ible in the clear southern waters, which offers a harbor for a considerable num- ber seeking safety. Not only does the structure of the abandoned ship provide hiding places, but the grouper family, which makes the wreck a regular habitat, acts as a guard for the smaller fish against their arch enemies, the jacks and yellow tails, which are in turn sought by the groupers as food. The fry thus fre- quently remain unmolested, as they are too small to make food for the groupers. When the fry move from place to place, they usually do so at dusk or through the night, and then on the sur- face of the sea, where they find their prin- cipal food—plankton, the weak floating organisms, and nekton, the actively swim- ming animal life—which is more plentiful on the surface after the sun’s rays are lessened. A PARADOX OF PROTECTION Many fishes of the swarm seas are chameleon-like in* their coloration and take on the color and hue of their sur- roundings for protection, while others seek the holes and crevices into which the pursuing fish is unable to follow. Some fishes, to protect their young, carry their eggs in their mouths. Nature has so taken care of other species that they are hermaphrodite. Others live in the gill cavities of a greater fish. Some species of the sucking fish, asian illustra- tion, utilize the gill cavities of larger fishes, such as the mola, or giant sunfish, and the sailfish, for this purpose. Many live in other marine animals. The amia, for instance, lives with the animal in the large West Indian conch (Strombus gigantus), whose spiral shell so beautifully tinted on the inside was frequently used as a fireplace ornament a generation ago. While there finding pro- tection, this little fish carries its eggs in SEA 31 A TARPON WEIGHING 158 POUNDS, TAKEN IN FLORIDA WATE s S BY MR, ALFRED FORD The tarpon was one of the earliest of the large fishes for which sportsmen angled. Con- sequently it has been extensively advertised, and therefore is the most widely known of the sea fighters. 7

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Photog: MAUL OF FISH PHOTOG BELOW OF A TROPICAL SEZ or example, a 6-pound mackerel 77-pound cod preduces more than

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA 33 its mouth. -Another species, the Fieras- ferer, lives in the sea-pudding, one of the Holothurians, or sea-cucumbers. The sea-horse and the pipefish carry their eggs in external caudal pouches. And so it is that in probably thousands of other ways Nature makes provision for the offsetting of the constant canni- balistic warfare against life in the seas. Into the battle for and against the mul- tiplication of these species steps man, who, provided with human mind and in- tellect, looks to the sea for food, diver- sion, and for useful products of benefit to his kind. Industries have been built up which take countless millions of fishes yearly for food and other commercial uses. THE LURE OF THE SINGING LINE Tt is doubtful if there is any one except the biologist who appreciates the living things in the sea more than do sportsmen, who come in ever-increasing numbers to the fishing grounds for a try at their health-giving, out-of-doors recreation. The big-game hunter of the land, when coming upon a bull moose standing clear of the woods and providing an excellent opportunity for a shot, will sometimes tremble so that he is unable to pull the trigger. So there is a thrill all its own in the striking of the tarpon, sailfish, or some of the other game fishes of the Gulf Stream. It has been said truly that one strike invariably means a convert. Wary, strong, and of remarkable game- ness, it is true that these wonderful fishes try the strength, skill, and endurance of even the best and most experienced angler; and, when the prize is finally landed, the successful one feels all the exultation of one who has waged a mighty battle and won. THE VALUE OF ADVERSITY The tarpon in Florida waters, like the tuna or tunny in southern California fish- ing areas, is looked upon by the general public as the premier among game fishes and occupies a highly specialized place in the estimation of all persons of either sex interested in this sport. The “Silver King,” as the tarpon is called, was one of the earliest of the large fishes for which sportsmen angled. Consequently it has been the most extensively advertised Photograph by Van Campen Heilner THE SOUTHERN PORPOISE, SOMETIMES ERRONEOUSLY CALLED DOLPHIN The great flats of the Bay of Florida is one of the favorite feeding grounds of this swift and graceful fish. When harpooned it puts up a long and thrilling battle.

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34 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by John O. La Gorce A SCHOOL OF PORPOISE MIGRATING The porpoise in great schools move up and down the Atlantic coast during certain periods of the year. They are said to devour their weight in fish every forty-eight hours. through word of mouth by prideful captors and in song and story, and so has come to be more widely known than its competi- tors. Such is the value of advertising. But while many worship at the shrine of the tarpon, some of the more experi- enced sportsmen, equipped with light tackle, esteem just as highly, if not a grade higher, the gameness of other fighters of the warm seas, such as the sailfish, the wahoo, and the bonefish. The bonefish of recent years has become particularly popular among sportsmen, and world-wise anglers journey even from Europe to Florida to match their ability with this animated steel spring. The tarpon is abundant in Florida waters, on both coasts, where hundreds of sportsmen, winter and summer, seek it for the thrill and pride of capture it pro- vides. When one is caught with rod and reel, it leaps repeatedly from the water, and as the sunlight plays upon its glisten- ing scales while the angler battles con- stantly to prevent it from freeing itself during the struggle, the thrill must be ex- perienced to be fully appreciated. This best-known of the larger game fishes of the sea is bluish on the back, with its under parts and sides a wonder- ful, glistening silver (Color Plate X). Its scales are large and iridescent and are utilized in the making of numerous fancy articles which find a ready market as souvenirs of the habitat of the tarpon. Little is known of the breeding habits of the tarpon, but very young individuals are found in brackish waters, where they remain until strong enough to enter into the life struggle of the deep. THE SAILFISH A CLOSE COMPETITOR FOR POPULARITY The sailfish is considered a highly de- sirable fish to encounter, for not only is it valued for the resultant sport after be- ing hooked, but it is also highly prized for the excellent mounted trophy it makes. Many of these fish adorn the home walls and club-rooms of anglers who take pride in their catches (Color Plate XII). It was this fish which afforded the Chief Executive and members of his official family their sport last spring when

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA 35 Photograph fram A 16-POUND MUTTON FISH BITTEN IN TWO BY A LARGER FISH mi Aquarium Landing half a fish is not a rare experience for sportsmen at Miami, Florida, for the hungry barracuda is sometimes quicker than the man with the line. The mutton fish was seized and contended for while being hauled into the boat. in Miami waters. After his strenuous campaign and before assuming his mani- fold duties, President Harding matched his skill with much success against the huge game fishes of the Gulf Stream. Caught with light tackle, such gamesters require considerable skill in the landing, being very strong and of supreme cour- age. The tarpon and sailfish when hooked leap repeatedly many feet into the air in their efforts to free themselves from the hook and are very frequently successful in such ring generalship (see pp. 28, 29, 30). The sailfish is not only a good sporting fish, but is also of considerable food value as well. This remarkably swift oceanic citizen is of unusual shape; its large, sail- like dorsal fin and its rapier-like spear make it a curiosity much sought after by the angler. Little is definitely known of the use of the large dorsal fin, but it is not un- usual to see it “hoisted” on the still waters of the tropics in the fish’s surface dashes after prey. Its likeness to a boat’s sail led inevitably to the fish being dubbed by its common name. The marlin fish, which is a close rela- tive of the sailfish and built very much on the same lines, has the sharp, protruding snout, but the dorsal fin is much smaller. It is purely a pelagic species. It is an excellent food-fish. The marlin is not so numerous as the sailfish, nor does it grow to be as large in Florida waters, but it is gamier, and, like most of the fighting fishes of southern localities, has a _pen- chant for leaping clear of the water in its struggles for freedom (Color Plate XV). THE DOLPHIN OF THE MARINER NOT THE FISH OF THE ANCIENTS Of the game fishes the dolphin must be mentioned in the front rank. Much has been told of this wonderful species, and to the speed-loving American it is looked upon as one of the greatest of fishes, for there is probably no other citizen of the deep which travels so swiftly. It spends its entire life in the open seas. While idling, its movements are sluggish, but when in quest of its prey it moves with incredible rapidity, and to one observing its movements it appears like nothing so

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36 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE much as a dash of color in the sea—a yellow-blue-whitish streak that is almost lost in the green water (Color Plate VIII). Of all deep-water fishes, the dolphin possesses the greatest power to change its color. A dying dolphin affords a most beautiful and spectacular sight, when, with all the iridescence of an opal, it changes hue so rapidly that the brain cannot grasp the beauty of one color be- fore another comes into view. In life its general color is a blue or emerald green above, with brighter blue dots showing on the base; the under parts are silvery and the caudal and pectoral fins are a clear yellow. It is an excellent food-fish, but, being not common in quantity, has little commercial value. It is caught usually only by chance, when one is fishing for other game fishes which inhabit the re- gions where the dolphin lives. THE BONEFISH, A STEEL SPRING OF THE DEEP ‘The bonefish represents a single species, inhabiting all warm and tropical seas. It is considered to be among the most inde- fatigable fighters of fishdom, and is a source of much sport to the angler, who will often travel hundreds of miles for an opportunity to match his skill and wits with this fish. Its name is, like most com- mon names of fishes, derived from its most striking feature, in this case an in- ternal one. Its bony structure is similar to that of the herring. In the localities where this fish abounds the natives have a way of stretching it before cooking, so that the bones may be released from the flesh. When cooked properly, after this operation, it provides a fine dish and the bones may be easily drawn out. The color of the bonefish is a beautiful glistening silver and the scales are much desired by the natives of the West In- dies. In fish-scale work for decorating ladies’ costumes the scales of this fish are used. The writer has seen an evening gown made wholly of bonefish scales which was indeed a thing of beauty. The scales were bored and laid on a fabric base like shingles on a roof. ‘The result- ant effect was like that of the natural body of the fish (Color Plate IX). Of all silvery-colored fishes, probably none equals the moonfish in beauty. These sluggish little fishes frequent shady places and sandy shores, where they are taken in seines in large quantities. To the quiet observer of their habits, they appear to be duly appreciative of the fact that they are admired, for they seem to be forever cleaning and preening themselves in the sands (Color Plate V). The peculiar, moon-like contour of the bodies of these fish is mainly responsible for their name. They are literally the “high-brows” of the fish tribe, their high foreheads giving them what passes for the appearance of intellectuality. When seen at close range, the iridescence of their silvery bodies is more beautiful than mother-of-pearl, which the sides of the fish so closely resemble. They glisten in the sunlight like the sun flash from a mirror. As a food-fish they are equally as good as the pompano, which is high praise indeed. Traits which mark land animals, with which man is more familiar than he is with the sea-dwellers, can be traced in the turbulent life under water. Killer-whales travel in packs like wolves and stalk their prey in much the same way. Other fishes, because of their appearance, have been given names to indicate a resemblance to land forms. There is the dogfish, the sea catfish, and the hogfish; but it is doubtful if ever a fish was given a more appropri- ate name than the nickname bestowed on the barracuda. THE TIGER OF THE SEA The barracuda is a carnivorous pirate from the tropical and subtropical regions , and has been recorded as reaching a length of eight feet. It is amazingly swift in action, and strikes its prey with- out hesitation, on sight, darting with lightning rapidity at any moving thing in the sea, big or small, fast or slow. While cruising, its movements are slow and sluggish, and its habit of frequently hid- ing under some floating log or pinnacle of rock reminds one of a U-boat lurking in the ocean lanes, but ready to strike down the passerby (Color Plate I). When taken with rod and reel, this fish proves to be a savage fighter. Its teeth are most sinister in appearance, having on each side a sharp, cutting edge, which, with the powerful leverage of its mighty jaws, make it a formidable foe. It will

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF ‘THE WARM SEA 53 attack almost any kind of sea denizen, its own species included, no matter what the size, and with one snap it can sever the body of an unbelievably large fish. This has been demonstrated often to fishermen, who have had their catch taken by the barracuda before it could be hauled into the boat (see page 35). Natives of tropical waters fear the barracuda more than the shark, and with good cause, as is attested by the injuries this fierce fish has inflicted on the bodies of individuals who have been so unfortu- nate as to be struck by its wicked jaws. Yet this ferocious creature, like practi- cally all fishes kept in captivity, becomes docile when properly cared for, At the Miami Aquarium, so admirably located at Miami Beach, Florida,* one of the aquarists, when superintending the clean- ing of the tanks, will pet the barracuda much as a child strokes the back of a pet cat, and the fish will, in a seemingly gentle way, take food from his hand. Although in some sections the barra- cuda is said to be poisonous during cer- tain seasons of the year, in reality it is a good food-fish. ‘The writer investigated reports that the fish is poisonous, and in the sections where the belief was preva- lent could find no reason for it, other than that the flesh had probably been kept until it became tainted and ptomaine poisoning was the result. A number of barracuda were caught, cooked, and eaten in order to demonstrate to the natives that the fish, if properly kept and pre- pared, is a wholesome fish at all seasons. As a result, in many places the minds of the natives have been disabused in regard to the edibility of the barracuda. This misconception in regard to the barracuda is typical. Those who handle fish daily, even the old-time fisherman who can at any time lead one directly to the habitat of those fishes peculiar to the waters in which he operates, does not fully understand the food values of the creatures with which he deals. To realize this it is only necessary to investigate, even casually, the fish markets along the southern Florida coast; their counterparts in the Bahama Islands directly opposite *See “The Treasure House of the Gulf Stream,” by John Oliver La Gorce, in the Nationa, Grocrapuic Macazine for January, 1921. and divided by but a few miles of water; and those of the West Indies, to the southeastward and almost as close. In these three localities, their shores laved by the same stream, in practically the same climate, the food-fishes chosen in the market are in many cases so unlike as to lead one to believe that altogether different ranges of sea life exist in the three sections. FOOD VALUE OF WARM-SEA FISH In the Florida markets the several members of the grouper family are highly considered and find a ready market, while in Bermuda these fishes are not looked upon with favor. ‘The groupers represent one of the largest families of fishes in tropical and subtropical waters. Some of the species reach a length of eight to ten feet and weigh, at times, as much as 600 pounds. ‘The black grouper, which grows to be one of the largest of the family, is ex- tremely wary and is one of the most diffi- cult of fishes to land. When one is still- fishing, this species will sometimes en- circle the bait for hours before deciding to take it. One would imagine that the fish looks its surroundings over very carefully be- fore venturing to take. the bait; but. when apparently satisfied that it should take it, the black grouper bites at it most viciously and forthwith makes for the nearest hole in. the coral reef, and thus it often frees itself by running the line over a sharp edge of the reef. Once the hooked fish reaches a hole, it is almost impossible to bring it again to the sur- face. Trolling is by far the best way to take the black grouper (Color Plate IV). The Nassau grouper is another large member of the family. It, like the other groupers, inhabits the coral reefs and lives a solitary life, except during the breeding season, when it is gregarious. During this period it congregates in large shoals, from which habit the family re- ceives its name. The Nassau species changes color with great facility, but during the change a black spot at the base of the tail retains its deep color, no matter what other tints may come and go all over its body (Color Plate II1). ‘The red grouper is not, on the average, as large as its Nassau cousin, forty

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MOOGAUd NI dIHs V NO OVNUVE

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56 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by L. F. Williamz SWELL (PUFFER) FISH FOUND IN FLORIDA WATERS AND ALL WARM SEAS To frighten its enemies, this fish is permitted by a considerate Nature to fill itself with air when approached. Sometimes it puffs too much and bursts. pounds being a high weight for this species. It isa good food-fish and is beau- tiful in appearance. It has habits similar to the other groupers (Color Plate IIT). The gag, a smaller-scale grouper, is not only esteemed as a food-fish wherever it may be found, but is also one of the gamiest of the family. It seldom attains a greater length than four feet. Its hab- itat is principally along the Florida reefs; it also frequents the Bermudas ( Plate IV ). The gamiest of the grunts, the margate fish, is another excellent food-fish, like- wise the mutton-fish, of the snapper fam- ily, which is considered the best fighter of that clan and also the largest. Some mutton-fish reach a weight of as much as 25 pounds (Color Plates II and VI). TIC MACKEREL AND HIS KINGLY COUSIN THE MAJ Some of the species mentioned are popular only locally, but the Spanish mackerel is known favorably not only in its own habitat, but wherever shipping facilities are such as to provide for the transportation of this sound, finely flavored fish. Millions of pounds are shipped north annually from the State of Florida alone. From one market, Key West, more than 3,000,000 pounds are shipped each year. ‘They are surface- living fish of great game qualities, elegant in form and color, and among the swift- est fishes of the sea, as their stream-like line and tail indicate. They appear in countless numbers in southern waters from November to March, during which period they are taken in great quantities for the market (Color Plate VIT). Associated with the Spanish mackerel is the kingfish, which is somewhat larger, on the average. Both belong to the same family and are much alike in many re- spects. As a food-fish, the kingfish ranks next to the Spanish mackerel, and nearly a million pounds are shipped each year from the Key West markets (Plate VII). THE NUMEROUS JACK FAMILY Most of the fishes referred to are car- nivorous and are not frequently seen in the neighboring waters of populated sec- tions. It is by no means a rarity, how-

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA 57 Photograph by James A. Allison FEMALE SAWFISH TAKEN ALIVE IN A NET AND EXHIBITED FOR SEVERAL WEEKS IN A 36-FooT TANK AT THE MIAMI AQUARIUM She gave birth to nine young, the only record of sawfish being born in captivity. ever, for even the most wary—excepting, perhaps, the dolphin—to frequent the haunts of man. While wariness is a common trait of game fish, one species, the jacks, seems to have no fear of man and his traffic. They may often be observed resting lazily, in tidal waters, under a bridge or near the shore, where the traffic is con- stant. ‘They cruise slowly around, await- ing the approach of their favorite food, the mullet. When a school of mullets appears in sight, there is instant action. ‘The jacks marshal their forces and bear down upon their prey, upon which they wreak spectacular and terrible carnage. The amber jack is the largest and gamiest of its family and inhabits both the shoal and deep waters among the Florida Keys, the West Indies, and Ber- muda, It provides excellent sport for trolling and will take almost any kind of live bait offered by still-fishing. It is a carnivorous, surface-living fish of con- siderable food value in the Bermudas and the West Indies, where large numbers are taken for market purposes. It is not so highly considered in the Florida mar- kets, where its cousin, the yellow jack, is more common (Color Plate XIII). The yellow jack is also a surface-living fish of graceful lines and beautiful color- ation. It resembles the amber jack closely, both in habits and appearance, although it does not reach so large a size. CONTRIBUTING TO THE WORLD'S KNOWL- EDGE OF KNOWN FISH The fishes already mentioned are com- mon in the waters adjacent to the Gulf Stream and are widely known, many miles from their habitat, for their game- ness and sporting qualities or for their food values; but now and then a new Gulf Stream species has been found which requires classification. Such a find was made in the case of Allison’s tuna. ‘This beautiful fish, of which but a few specimens have been caught, was taken at the edge of the Gulf Stream, off Miami Beach, Florida. It is proved to be a new species added to the American fauna—a species second to none of the other members of the family

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58 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Dr. W. H. Longley ‘THE GRAY SNAPPER (NEOMENIS GRISEUS) AMONG GORGONIANS Photograph by Herbert R. Duckwall AN OCEAN SUN-FISH, WEIGHT I,500 POUNDS, CAUGHT IN THE GULF STREAM OPPOSITE MIAMI, FLORIDA

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA 59 Photograph by Herbert R. Duckwall A KILLER WHALE IN ACTION This scourge of the oceans is feared by all living fish, from the mackerel to the sperm whale. raveling in packs, the killers are known as the wolves of the sea, in coloration and interest. It reaches a large size and will in all probability be- come one of the most-sought-for fishes by anglers in the Florida waters. The newness of the fish will doubtless cause sportsmen to vie with one another in their efforts to land a specimen of record size. ‘The new tunas appear to be most numer- ous in January (Color Plate XIV). The writer has good cause to believe the reason this fish has not been taken until recently is because the tackle used for the sailfish and other fishes common in the waters harboring this tuna was too light to stand the strain put upon it when this powerful fish struck. Many lines and rods have been broken by large fishes in this section, and sharks have been blamed, when unquestionably, in a great many cases, it was the newly dis- covered tuna. The Thunnus allisoni is, like the others of the genus, a warm-blooded fish and its flesh is of fine quality and flavor. Reptiles as well as fish have found the Gulf Stream a kindly habitat; but turtles, probably the most valuable of reptiles, are diminishing rapidly in many of the locali- ties bathed by this great stream of warm water where they were formerly abun- dant. During the period of slavery it is said that many negroes were prompted to try to escape, in some sections of the South, because they were compelled to subsist mainly on a diet of terrapin.. Now terrapin is a much-sought-for delicacy, difficult to obtain. And what is true of the terrapin is also true of practically all other turtles. Without doubt, the green turtle is the finest-flavored of the sea turtles and the most highly esteemed as food, It is an herbivorous feeder, inhabiting the open seas in the West Indies, the Bahamas, Brazil, the Gulf of Mexico, the Pacific Ocean, and the Straits of Florida, al- though it is now almost extinct in Florida waters. The greatest numbers are taken off the Mosquito Coast of Central America (Color Plate XVI). ‘The green turtle is a beautiful species, reaching a weight of more than 700 pounds, but averaging considerably less. In captivity it becomes quite tame and

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60 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AIR VIEW OF THE MIAMI AQUARIUM BUILDINGS, MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA, OPENED TO THE PUBLIC JANUARY, 1921 thrives on turtle-grass, lettuce, and purs- lane, or “pusley.” It will eat flesh, but lives much better on vegetable foods. There is danger that these turtles will be wiped out of existence, They are far less numerous than in past seasons, due to the natives digging the eggs. The female turtle visits the beaches from April until June to deposit her eggs. This she does by digging a hole to a depth of from 14 to 18 inches in the sand, where she lays from a single egg to 200. On the fourteenth night from the first de- posit—on what is known as the second crawl—she returns to lay more eggs close by her first nest. Not only do the natives of the islands where the turtles crawl rob the nests, but they frequently catch the turtle after she has deposited her eggs, thus wiping out at one stroke both the mother and all her potential progeny. BIRDS ARE MIES OF THE GREEN TURTLE Although statutes covering the protec- tion of the turtles are written into the laws where these reptiles were formerly plentiful, the marauders continue their work of despoilation. Yet even now be- tween 1,500 and 2,000 green turtles are brought annually to the Key West mar- kets, the average weight being 130 pounds. Man, although the greatest, is only one of the enemies of the turtle. When the young are hatched, they dig to the surface of the sand and immediately make toward the sea. ‘Their instinct in locating the proper direction is unerring, and freshly hatched turtles, flipped like a coin and turned away from the sea, will wheel around and make directly for the salt water. The pelican and man-o’-war bird swallow the young as soon as they observe the small creatures on their way to the water, and if they reach the water they are harassed by their fellow sea-dwellers. The hawks-bill, or shell turtle, is with- out question the most beautiful of sea turtles. It is the producer of the much- valued tortoise shell of commerce. This species is found in considerable numbers in the West Indies, where its members deposit their eggs from May to July. It is also distributed throughout the Gulf of Mexico, south to Brazil and the Straits of Florida, although it is now rare in the last-named section to an even greater extent than the green turtle. Large

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CERTAIN CITIZENS OF THE WARM SEA 61 quantities of the valuable shell are shipped every year, principally to Europe. ‘lhe flesh is not as highly esteemed as that of the green turtle, but it is eaten in some localities (Color Plate XVI). While the shell turtles are taken prin- cipally in large nets, into which they are driven, the natives of the West Indies have another method of catching them, known as “bullying.” They drop over a sleeping turtle the “bully,” an iron hoop four feet in diameter covered with a net like the crown of a hat. The turtle be- comes entangled in the meshes and is then easily brought to the surface. When alarmed, the turtle will hide its head, much as the ostrich is said to do, and then considers itself quite safe from observation. At the Miami Aquarium one of the turtle specimens has found a conveniently located hole in the rocks of its tank, and spends most of the time with its head thrust in the opening, its body dangling outside. Scores of times during the past season visitors have rushed to the office of the director to inform him that one of his prize specimens had gotten caught in a crevice and was strangling to death. THE CRAWFISH, PRIZED COUSIN OF THE NORTHERN LOBSTER Crustaceans play no mean part in the life of the sea. They cover a wide range in size, from the most minute of creatures to the great Japanese crab of the western Pacific, whose claws have a spread of 15 or 16 feet. High in the rank of the American crustaceans stands the crawfish, or spiny lobster (Panulirus americanus), of southern salt waters. It grows as large and is of even a more delicate flavor than its northern cousin. ‘This species should not be confounded with the fresh- water crawfish, which is an entirely dif- ferent form. The Panulirus americanus, or southern lobster, is the largest of the crustaceans known to inhabit the Atlantic, the Medi- terranean and Caribbean seas and _ is generally conceded to be the most tooth- some. Reaching at times the extreme length of four feet, the crawfish provides an abundance of food material. Large numbers are shipped every year from the Florida markets. It dwells among the coral reefs and heads and is usually caught CATCHING HIS BREAKFAST ON THE FLY in traps baited with small fish, although “bullying” and spearing are also used to some extent (Color Plate XT). The crawfish is not only a delicacy from the standpoint of human consump- tion, but is relished, too, by the inhabit- ants of the sea and is an excellent bait for most fish in the Florida waters. In the Miami Aquarium it is the staple food for nearly all kinds of fishes. Even the most purely herbivorous fishes eat, and appear to relish, the fine white flesh of the craw- fish. Crawfish are easily kept in an aquarium and make an interesting exhibit. This is true particularly of the female during the spawning season, when she is busy, almost constantly, combing her eggs in her efforts to give her prospective progeny a

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62 Photograph by 1. L- Mowbray PEACOCKS OF THE SEA Nature’s paint brush has been lavish in tinting many of the warm sea fish. Here are seen in what approximates their natural habitat, alive and contented, the Black Angel, Blue Angel, Rainbow Parrot, and Blue Parrot, fish of fantastic shape and beautiful color. fair start in the arduous life into which they are about to enter. The figure on the left, Plate XI, shows a specimen carrying her eggs. On the last leg may be noted a pincer, which is used in remov- ing the dead eggs and debris which may adhere to the egg clusters. Large num- bers of the eggs have been hatched and scientifically observed at the Miami Aquarium with a view to increasing this valuable food supply. At the Aquarium many laboratory tests are made of the structure and compo- sition of marine forms peculiar to local waters. Every stage in the life of fish is studied. Some interesting discoveries have been made, and others will undoubt- edly follow, whereby man will benefit. More and more are the peoples of the earth looking to the sea for sustenance and even for leather substitutes and various other products. Science has helped much in garnering the sea’s valu- able materials for the use of the land’s dominant animal. Whether looked upon merely as poten- tial food in a world in which food is be- coming relatively scarcer; as interesting or beautiful creatures worthy of study and admiration, or as furnishing the ma- terial for a thrilling sport, the fish of the southern Gulf Stream are receiving more and more attention, from the all-too- small group of distinguished ichthyolo- gists who specialize in this investigation. Ages before Izaak Walton wrote of the fascination of catching fish only large enough to bob a tiny cork, the lure ex- erted by the finny tribe for sport-loving men had been conceded. When the hook- ing of small fresh-water creatures can bring its joys, is it any wonder that hum- ble citizen and President alike grow en- thusiastic over battles royal with rod and reel in which they match their skill with the great creatures of the Gulf Stream.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES Home of a Thrifty, Picturesque People, Who Take Pride in the Sobriquet, ‘‘The Yankees of Spain’’ By Harry A. McBripe PANISH trains, except on the few S important direct routes, have little ways and mannerisms all their own. My first experience was on the correo from Barcelona to Bilbao, an express scheduled to leave at five in the morning and to arrive at eight in the morning of the following day; also an express that carried no sleeping-car. The journey was scarcely begun when it became evident that the ordinary rail- way means of transportation on the Peninsula offered an excellent opportu- nity to sit and think and to smoke cigar- ettes. In America we have one car where smoking is indulged in, but in Spain there is only one car set aside where “to smoke is prohibited,” and that car is as often as not empty. This express made slightly more than fifteen miles an hour, and halted at in- numerable stations where the neat little brick station-houses, almost exactly alike in construction, were the only signs of human habitation. I suppose there must have been a little town or village not more than one, or two, or three miles away; but Spanish railways are expert in the matter of successfully dodging the towns and stopping in a field at a very safe distance, the locomotoras, as it were, having not yet become city-broken. At each stop there was plenty of time to get out, light a fresh cigarette, and take quite a promenade, while the engi- neer renewed his acquaintance with the hangers-on at the station and gave them all the latest Barcelona gossip. THE LEISURELINESS OF SPANISH ‘TRAINS DEMONSTRATED A picturesque touch at many stations was the pair of Guardias Civiles standing stolidly by, carbines at their side, gravely overlooking the throng, in their Napo- leonesque uniforms —triangular hat of polished black leather, gray tunic, with “Sam Brown” of white, a wide yellow 63 belt, and gray trousers. This anti-bandit rural police is one of the most efficient and laudable institutions of Spain. After something like two dozen of these stations had been safely negotiated and the stops becoming longer and longer in duration, it became evident that we were dropping considerably behind our sched- ule. I asked a fellow-traveler if we were likely to make up the lost time. The question seemed to daze him; then he said: “Pues no, hombre, claro que no; pero que importa eso.” Quite so; inconceiv- able that there could be any importance attached to such a small matter. At last we had managed to become six hours behind time, and then the engineer evidently became thoroughly discouraged, for it was announced that we should ar- rive at Saragossa at about 19 o'clock; that this train would be taken off there, and that the passengers could proceed by the first train on the following day if they felt so disposed. THE BASQUE PROVINCES RESEMBLE AN- OTHER WORLD The next day we ran out of Aragon and Navarre into another world, the Basque provinces—more hilly, more in- dustrious, more modern—the New Eng- land of Spain. Even the train picked up spirit and arrived at each succeeding little station punctually, according to the un- failing station clock. In the real Spanish provinces the peas- ants met on the highway never fail to greet the traveler with the salutation: “Vaya Ud. con Dios.” This is a century-old request to God to be with you on your way. In the Basque provinces, however, it is changed to a brisk “Buenos”; they are so modern that they even abbréviate “good-day,” and say only the first half of it. The “Vascongados,” as the Spaniards call them, or the “Euskaldunac,” as they

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66 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE F on 5 = = = A i Speer 7 ae Bordepuxd & oF VTALY BALLS BSG Acie Bie Re AWN au J 7 asse a A | Pr % i) oes Seville IN | E hell iz | ae AL EER Sect hE eafo Sa | if a so Lc) 50 200 250. 300 , STATUTE MILES 2 A a Oe B R R es Le az uci = Baly or BISCAY ae 7. Plenci: ~ S-Sebas S| Port ee 2 } aes ee 3 Drawn by James M. Darley A SKETCH MAP OF SPAIN AND THE BASQUE PROVINCES In three small provinces of northern Spain—Guipiizcoa, Vizcaya, and Alava—live the Basques, who proudly claim to be the oldest unmixed race in Europe (see also “The Races of Europe,” in the Narionat Grocrarnic Macazine for December, 1918). Across the Spanish border is a French'contingent of this race, whose most distinguished scion is Marshal Foch. call themselves, are decidedly different. Even the Basque tongue (Euskara) is totally unintelligible to the Spaniard, and it is spoken almost exclusively by the peasants of the three little provinces of Guiptizcoa, Vizcaya, and Alava, though Spanish is used in the larger towns and cities. A Basque newspaper, and there are several of them, resembles Polish quite as much as it does Spanish. “THE OLDEST UNMIXED RACE IN EUROPE” The history of these “Yankees” of Spain, who proudly claim to be the oldest unmixed race in Europe, is a repetition of determined efforts to defend and re- tain the natural rights and liberties which they have enjoyed since time immemorial. They had certain fueros, or special privi- leges, to which they held through thick and thin, and way back in 1202 they stub- bornly refused to become incorporated with the provinces of Leon, Navarre, and Castile until the privileges had been duly recognized and acknowledged. These privileges gave the Basques, among other things, a republican consti- tution in their three little provinces, im- munity from taxation and freedom from national military service, though they maintained certain forces of their own. But the Vascongados, wearing the

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 67 Photograph by Casa Lux A PANORAMA OF BILBAO FROM MONTE CABRAS Looking down from highly cultivated fields to the Nervion River, with its iron foundries and shipbuilding yards. industrious and efficient agriculturists. white cap of Don Carlos, took part in the “Jost cause,” and at the conclusion of the second Carlist War, in 1876, Alfonso XII, triumphant with victory, immediately at- tended to the matter of the fucros of the Basques, abrogating most of them in a peremptory manner. Thus the much-hated salt monopoly of the Spanish Government was introduced into the three provinces along with the more-hated tobacco mon- opoly and with the most-hated “quinta,” or military conscription. The provincial governments still retain, however, a semblance of their ancient in- dependence. At the village of Guernica, a charming little place some nine miles from Bilbao, there is still pointed out, with great pride, the spot where stood the “Guernikako Arbola,” the tree of Guer- nica, in a little plaza in front of the Casa de Juntas. It was under this oak tree that the Basque deputies met every two years before the abolition of their fueros. There also remains a small remnant of the old military forces of the provinces— soldiers in blue blouses, red trousers, and soft red caps—who are now employed as The Basques are not only progressive manufacturers, but also customs and coast guards and in assisting the Guardia Civil as rural police. They are called mifones. BILBAO, THE PITTSBURGH OF SPAIN Picture a small, round valley nestling among wondrous green hills, some of which are almost worthy of the name of mountains, with a river carefully making a letter S or two in order to enter this beautiful stronghold. ‘That is the site of Bilbao, with its hundred thousand souls, the largest Basque city and the second seaport of Spain. The river is the Nervion, which has been canalized from the city to the Bay of Biscay, eight miles distant, so that sea- going merchant vessels come to town, passing the Ayuntamiento, the beautiful municipal building, on their way, and dropping anchor within a stone’s throw of the Teatro Arriga, one of the finest theaters in Spain. The hills encircle the city so closely that the ribbons of railways seeking entry from north, east, south, and west attain their end only by plunging into smoky tunnels.

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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE CHILDREN IN THE VIZCAYAN NATIVE DRESS Phot STREET SCENE IN A BASQUE FISHING VILLAGE [he fish of the Basque coast are reputed to be as excellent as any caught in Buropean waters, The tunny-fi iphs by Casa Lux 1 and sardines are the most numerous species, and all Atlantic v aming toward Bilbao pass fleet after fleet of the little fishing schooners, steam, dancing madly upon the rough waters of the Bay of Biscay. both sail and

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 69 Photographs from Pio Noriega A MASS FOR THE SHEPHERDS IN THE PICOS DE EUROPA The Cantabrian mountain range, extending from the Pyrenees along northern Spai attains almost an Alpine altitude between Santander and Oviedo, in the Asturian provir The snow-capped mountains are called Pico or Pefias de Europa, their highest point bi ies fect. The highest altitude attained by the range in the Basque provinces is about 5,000 eet.

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70 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A CARD PARTY IN THE DRAWING-ROOM STABLE OF A BASQUE In the summer time the peas the domestic animals, I have likened the Basque provinces to New England. Now there must arise a slight inconsistency, perhaps, because Bil- hao itself is certainly the “Pittsburgh” of Spain. Along the Nervion, between the city and the sea, are some of the world’s most famous iron deposits. They were known in the middle ages—so much so, in fact. that Elizabethan writers used the term “bilbo” for rapier, and no less an authority than Shakespeare causes his Falstaff, in the “Merry Wives of Wind- sor,” to speak of his condition in the buck-basket as “compassed, like a good bilbo, in the circumference of a peck, hilt to point, heel to head.” It is largely during the last three dec- ades, however, that vast exploitation has taken place; and now the river is lined HOME ant families and their guests spend the heat of the day on the cool first floor of their homes—that portion of the est Note the high cart in the right background. ablishment occupied at night by with freighters loading ore for Newcastle or for Rotterdam, where it is transhipped into Rhine barges and carried to Krupps and other German iron and steel makers. But not all of this Vizeayan wealth is exported in its natural state. Basque energy has caused the erection of smelting plants along the river, where steel rails and ship plates are produced. The rails explain why these provinces lead in the matter of Spanish railways, and the steel plates why Bilbao has become Spain’s chief shipbuilding center. TMENT AGAINST AMERICA As far back as 1897 the Bilbao yards launched a Spanish cruiser which a few months later, as a unit of Cervera’s fleet at Santiago, was destroyed.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 71 THE MEN OF BASQUE LAND ENJOY “What did you folks think when that cruiser sailed forth from the Nervion to- ward Cuba to fight the Norte-Ameri- canos?” I once asked an old Basque peasant. “Well, hombre,” he replied, “we were all about to pack our belongings to move over to our new colony north of Mexico. Our newspapers led us to believe it would be a one-sided affair, and it was—pero al otro lado.” “T don’t suppose Yankees are very popular in these parts on that account,” I ventured, having known the old fellow for some time. “Why not? You really did Spain a great favor in taking away Cuba and the Philippines—millstones around our necks.” I thought it well to check up on that latter statement, and found it to be the general opinion. I should say that most Spaniards feel today that the country has a better chance for development minus its colonial possessions. ‘The Nervion, crossed by several orna- mental bridges, divides Bilbao into two almost equal parts, leaving on one side the old town, with its narrow streets—so Photograph by Casa Lux THEIR CARD GAME IN THE OPEN narrow that wheeled traffic can be used only in two or three of them—and on the opposite side the new modern town, with its wide Gran Via and many other tree- lined avenues. THE ARENAL, CENTER OF CAFE LIFE A large plaza in the old town at the foot of the principal bridge, called the Arenal, is the focus of the city’s activity. It is here that the evening promenades take place, while a military band often renders real music for the occasion. The Arenal is also the center of the café life, with chairs and tables taking up most of what should be the sidewalk. ‘The average Basques of the cities and towns are like all other inhabitants of the Peninsula in their love for cafés; but in Spain this is a male institution, a woman being seldom seen therein, in this respect unlike the cafés of France. Immediately after luncheon and again immediately after dinner, in the evening, husbands, fathers, and brothers retire post haste to the café, meet two or three friends, secure a marble-topped table, and clap their hands loudly for the camarcro. He hurries up to the table in shirt sleeves

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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 72 A TYPICAL BASQUE FARM-HOUSE, WITH A HEAVY TWO-WHE 'D CART IN THE FOREGROUND the shores of the Bay of Biscay that few of the So tempestuous are the winds along ad round holes to emit smoke are cut in the wall peasant ho have chimneys. In their beneath the eaves, as here shown. Photographs by Casa Lux THE VILLAGE OF PLENCIA, ON THE ROCKY BISCAY COAST The green hills and fascinating outlook over choppy blue waters e attracted many Bilbao people to this village, where they have summer villas.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 73 Photograph by Casa Lux A BULL-FIGHT IN A BASQUE VILLAGE Even the villages in Spain must have at least one bull-fight ev The arena, or “plaza de toros of the patron saint of the locality. ear, on the festival in the small towns, is often rather crudely improvised, however. ‘The national sport is as popular in the Basque provinces as elsewhere in Spain, This photograph shows the long blouses worn by Basque laborers. and long white apron and always receives the same order: “Coffee, very black—un anisette—and a set of dominoes.” The cafés are often large, and when they are crowded, at the popular hours, with every patron slapping dominoes down on marble-topped tables with what force he can muster, talking in excited tones, smoking cigarettes, and with wait- ers crying their orders, there reigns what might most properly be called confusion. As it cannot be heard above the other noises, it is scarcely necessary to mention that there is often an orchestra rendering faultlessly some of the world’s most clas- sical selections. After an hour or two at the cafés in the evening, the male of the Basque species hies himself to the theater, this being another form of amusement in which the women participate little except on “dias de moda.” He purchases a seat for the “session of 10 o’clock,” which per- formance lasts until considerably past midnight. Thus it is well on toward sun-up before the city loses itself in re- pose. HOW BILBAO WAK UP AND GO WORK TO When most northern Spanish cities wake up in the morning certain fixed and recognized noises are heard, certain events transpire, and certain movements of the population take place, and in Spain some- how these little incidents differ consider- ably from similar ones taking place at the same hour in other countrie: The whistle of locomotives is heard an- nouncing the departure of the early trains, and in Spain the best trains, apparently with fixed intent, manage to depart at about 5 o'clock. ‘Tiny electric cars rum- ble through narrow streets and across the plazas, under the dusty palm trees, tink- ling their little brass bells, or perhaps they haven’t any bell at all, the conductor simply blowing from time to time a small tin horn as sign of warning.

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74 THE

Photograph by Casa Tux <6, LITTLE “SENORIT. CLASS IN BA

AS” OF THE PEASANT QUE COSTUM

The worker appears on the streets with his long blue blouse hanging to the knees, hurrying along noiselessly in his alpar- gatas, like canvas tennis shoes with soles of coiled rope, and his boina, a tiny blue cap with no visor, like a small tam-o’- shanter, with a piece of string an inch long replacing the pompon, set at a rakish angle on his head. Generally there is also a shawl, nearly as large as a steamer rug and of about the same color scheme, rolled up on his shoulders, with a generous piece across the lower part of the face to protect him against the possibility of inhaling pure fresh air. Seabirds, attracted the night before by the lights of the city, soar over the red tiles of the flat roofs, and, finally tiring of city life, spread their wings for the flight out to their accustomed haunts over the wild Bay of Biscay. In the older parts of town the iron curtain covering both door and_ single window of the little stores, taverns, and wine shops of the poorer classes is pushed up with a rattle and the place is then open for business. The church bells call the

ATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE faithful to early mass, and among them are many women garbed in black, further intensified by the black mantilla over head and shoulders, who slip like shadows through the early morning light. Bread women call at doors, leaving the large rolls, or panecillos, which, with a generous bowl of coffee and hot milk (half-and-half), form the usual menu for the day’s first repast of rich and poor alike. ‘The servant girls, also with alpar- gatas on their feet and black shawls over their heads, appear, basket on arm, on their way to market for the day’s purchases. Movement commences along the water- front, where the rattle of donkey-engine is heard, the clanking of large chains, and the hoarse cries of the second mates start- ing their gangs at the day’s work of cargo-handling.

THE “ANGULERO” BURNS THE MIDNIGHT OIL All that takes place at any of the Span- ish cities on the “Mar Cantabrico,” as the Bay of Biscay is called in the mother tongue. But at Bilbao there are two in- cidents that occur in the early morning which, as far as I have been able to certain, are unique to this, the largest of the Basque cities of Spain. Number one. The oil lamps of the anguleros are extinguished. Now, angu- leros are fishermen who since midnight have been engaged in a peculiar branch of the fisherman’s art. They have been catching angulas, and angulas, in turn, are a very peculiar brand of fish—little white, almost transparent worms (perhaps it would sound better to call them minia- ture eels), only two inches long. When a batch of them is fried, however, in olive oil and served in an earthenware dish, with the oil still popping when brought to the table, most connoisseurs will agree that there is method in the anguleros’ apparent madness. This delicacy inhabits the river Ner- vion and is caught along the stone walls of the quays, being attracted into nets by the fishermen’s oil lamps. This help! little morsel of seafood labors under the scientist’s formidable appellation of Mare- nide. Number two, The shrieks of bare- footed, illy-clothed women stevedores are heard.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES This requires the explanation that Bil- bao, the most important port of Spain after Barcelona, derives its prominence from the heavy outward-bound traffic in iron ore from the near-by mines and the correspondingly heavy imports of coals from Newcastle to furnish fuel for the many Basque industries. The iron ore is loaded with modern equipment along the river, but the coal is often unloaded by hand or, perhaps, to be more explicit, by head. Women al- most exclusively are employed in this dainty occupation. Every day a contin- uous line is to be seen moving up one gang-plank, with bushel-basket in hand, and down another to the coal hills on shore, with a heaping basketful of coal balanced on each head. When these toilers gather, shortly after daybreak, to begin work, there is a great row that has to do with preferred places in the line, there being some gang-planks slightly nearer to the coal heaps than others. In addition to the coal-ships along Bil- bao’s waterfront are also to be seen freighters flying astern the red and blue banner of Norway. These carriers bring immense quantities of bacalao, cod pre- served in great chunks like salt pork, which forms one of the chief articles of food, not only in the Basque provinces, but also in Asturias and Galicia. A MIDDAY MEAL IN A PEASANT HOME I remember once taking a day’s excur- sion on foot with two Bilbao friends out into the beautiful country-side beyond the famous Church of Begofa. Past midday, after a morning of blazing heat, we came to a little stone farm-house upon a pretty green hill. The omnipresent iron balcony was in its usual place over the front entrance, but fastened to it was the small branch of a tree, indicating that refreshments were to be obtained within by the road- weary traveler. Passing around to the back of the house, we were greeted by a fine old Basque peasant and his sefiora, or, as he would call her, his mujer (woman). We were seated at a wooden table under a plum tree, and there ensued what to me was an unintelligible conversation in Euskara. sa ai Photograph by Casa Lux A PEASANT WOMAN OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY She is wearing the rope-soled shoes called alpargatas. While we awaited results, I noted that the ground floor of the house was sur- rounded by a stone wall, open at the back, which formed the support for the second floor. The ground floor was the home of the steers, pigs, and chickens, whereas the human members of the family lived above; but the small, simply-furnished rooms of the peasant’s quarters were spotlessly clean. The farmer’s son came in from the fields, walking slowly alongside a pair of steers harnessed to a two-wheeled cart, the popular type of farm-wagon. At this juncture the mujer appeared with a large earthenware dish of bacalao,

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76 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph from Pio Norie A MOUNTAIN HIGHWAY IN THE BASQUE PROVINCES The three Basque provinces have an area equal to about twice that of the State of Rhode Island, with a population slightly in excess of 700,000, A peculiar feature of Spanish railways is that the: ea different gauge from those of France, for s cal reasons. However, plans were ordered drawn several years ago for a double-line standard ige railway from Madrid to the French border.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES als Photograph { TOWER OF A FIFTEE VYTH CENTURY CASTLE IN POT This quaint little Asturian village is in the heart of the “Cantabrian Alps,” not far from the city of Santander. Photograph by Casa Lux A HOUSE WITH AL FRESCO PAINTINGS IN GUERNICA Guernica was the t of the diet of V ya, Where the Basque deputies met every two years. It still retains several interesting architectural relics of the days when the Basque provinces were independent.

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78 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE HERALDS OF THE TOWN HALL OF BILBAO Like the “beef-eaters” of the Tower of London and the pictur- esque Swiss Guards of the Vatican, these heralds retain their medi- Note the coat of arms of Bilbao which they wear. eval costumes, boiled with just a touch of garlic and cov- ered with delicious scarlet sweet peppers, while around the sides of the dish were garbansos, giant chick-peas of fine savor. Before each of us was set a jug of chacoli, an excellent white wine of peas- ant make. For dessert there were lus- cious red plums of Vizcaya. It was a re- past that will linger long in my memory. One derives a false picture of this cen- ter of Basquedom unless the little eight- mile side-trip from Bilbao down to the sea is taken. Paralleling each side of the river is an electric tramway, and paral- leling each of these in turn is a steam railway. Town after town is to be seen on the way. Along the left bank of the Nervion ship- building yards are succeeded by im- mense iron foundries and smelters, and dozens of steamers are tied up alongside these industrial plants, all combining to fill the air with the smoke of man’s activities. The pretty green hillsides far beyond the river are marred here and there by patches of reddish brown color, where, in the distance, can be seen the puff of the little locomotives of the ore trains, and oc- casionally the rumble of a dynamite explo- sion is heard. These are the mines, and from many of them, stretching for miles through the air, to the loading berths on the river, are aérial ca- bles, to which are fas- tened buckets full of red ore moving con- tinually from mine to river, with parallel cables carrying back the “empties” to the far-away brown patches on the hillside. a; a Photograph by Casa Lux THE “FLYING FERRY” The river winds its way between these rich hills, and finally, rounding a corner, the sea comes suddenly into view. The strong sea breezes of the Biscay blow away the smudgy fog of industry, and one emerges again into Sunny Spain. At each side of the river mouth is a town—Portugalete on the left and Las Arenas on the right. A beautiful and unusual bridge, connecting the two, forms a fitting monument to mark the union of the Nervion with the waters of the At- lantic. It is called the Puente ‘Trasbor- dador (see illustration, page 84).

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THE On each river edge is a great tower of steel, something like a wireless tower, but more massive, over two hundred feet in height. These towers support a light iron bridge one hundred and fifty feet above the river, under which the largest steamers pass and repass night and day. From this bridge is suspended a “flying ferry” sup- ported by a network of fine wire, which is pulled back and forth across the river. It hangs to within a few feet of the water. We decided to cross one Sunday when there was a festival at Portugalete. Ap- proaching the win- dow, we demanded: “Un billete, to go and to return, how much ?” “Dos perros gor- dos,” Two “fat dogs,” as the Spaniards call their large ten-cen- time pieces of copper. Then we crowded onto the ferry with some seventy laugh- ing men and women bound for the fes- tivities on the opposite side. ‘The whistle blew, the bell rang, the iron gate clanged shut, and we moved smoothly out over the river through the air, as it were. ‘The opposite shore was reached in one min- ute, but it was a rather delightful little minute at that. Portugalete has narrow streets, and its balconied houses stretch picturesquely up the hillside, while at the top is an en- chanting little Gothic church, which is always the way in Spanish towns. ‘They always seem to cluster around a church or two for protection. Indeed, in Bilbao, there are no less than 75 of these pro- tectors. Las Arenas, opposite Portugalete, is a CORRUGA LAND OF THE BASQUES 79 aph by Casa Lux A MEDIEVAL TOWER IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY, WITH MODERN ED IRON SHEDS IN THE FOREGROUND modern village of seashore villas which has become popular as a summer resort. Here the Club Maritimo has its pleasant club-house, overlooking the harbor en- trance, where the youths of Bilbao go in the afternoon to drink chocolate, dance, and play at caballitos, which is better known by its French appellation, “petits chevaux.” THE KING MAKES AN ANNUAL VISIT FOR THE YACHT RACES The King comes nearly every summer to the yacht races and causes this little outing place to be for a few days the social center of the kingdom. He gener- ally goes over to picturesque Portugalete during his stay in this section.

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RECONC TILE ASTURIANS BEGAN POINT THE S 5 z = s Z

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THE LAND OF There are few harbors more beautiful in setting than this, with one breakwater of stone stretching far out into the sea from the Portugalete side and another, of equal length, from the Las Arenas side. Within the breakwaters are vessels riding at anchor on the deep blue water, a few steamers and many small fishing schooners, for the fresh fish of the Basque Sea are numbered high in the record of fish excellence. THE SARDINE WOMEN MAKE A STRIKING PICTURE The sardines, according to local repute, are better than those of Bordeaux, and I am not inclined in this instance to ques- tion the correctness of local reputation. One of the unique little pictures of the Basque towns on the sea is that of the barefooted sardine women, walking with infinite and unaffected grace through nar- row streets of stone flagging, with great square wooden trays balanced on their heads. On the trays are hundreds of sil- very fresh sardines laid out in neat rows. And the women cry, “Sardinas, sardinas vivas!” indicating that their wares are still alive. They tell a story in Portugalete about one of the visits of the royal family at yacht-racing time, when a large crowd was watching the arrival of their popular King and Queen. Suddenly some one shouted, “Viva el Rey!” “Viva! Viva!! echoed the crowd in a mighty voice. The yell-master continued, “Viva la Reina!” “Viva! Viva!!” came the answering volley from a thousand throats. The leader then submitted for ap- proval, “Viva Espafia!” “Viva! Viva!!" came the prompt reply. At this juncture a sardine woman turned the corner. Her voice had the same quality of carrying powers as that of the popular yell-master, as she cried, “Sardinas, vivas sardinas!” and before the excited throng could restrain itself it had roared forth its approving “Viva! Viva tl”? EACH OF SPAIN’S 49 PROVINCES HAS ITS DISTINCTIVE INDIVIDUALITY For administrative purposes Spain is divided into forty-nine districts or prov- THE BASQUES 81 inces. Regionalism is so strong that one may almost continue, and state that there are also forty-nine national languages, forty-nine national costumes, forty-nine national dances, and, last but by no means least, forty-nine national dishes. This would, perhaps, be a slight exag- geration, but the fact remains that the inhabitants of each district differ notice- ably in characteristics from all the others. A man from Barcelona is first a Catalan and second a Spaniard. Likewise an in- habitant of Corufia is less Spanish than Gallego, and a person from Bilbao places his Basque nationality before his Span- ish adherence, and so on. Thus, the Bilbaino holds that no dish can equal in excellence his bacalao viz- caino, and the citizen of Vigo turns up his nose at all foods except his own native pote gallego, a concoction of potato and cabbage boiled in water with lard and eaten with bread and garlic. The Valen- cian has his arros valenciano, which is really excellent—rice cooked in oil, to which tender bits of meat and sweet pep- pers are added. The proud Castilian sticks through thick and thin to the puchero, the Sevillaio to his beloved gaspacho. THE BASQUES ARE GREAT BALL-PLAYERS— NOT BASEBALL, HOWEVER This spirit of regionalism must at one time have divided in slight degree even the three Basque provinces, the smallest in Spain. It is said that in the olden days the men of Vizcaya wore blue caps, those in Guiptzcoa preferred red ones, whereas the men in Alava were often to be seen in white headgear, the caps, or “boinas,” in each case being precisely the same in style and shape. In recent years, at any rate, this distinction has entirely disappeared and blue seems to be the dernier cri as to color for men’s headwear in all three provinces. Among other qualities of excellence, the Basques are the leading athletes in Spain. They supply a goodly number of torreros for the bull ring, and no one, I believe, will dispute the fact that even a bull-fighter must be an athlete in pretty nearly the pink of condition. Basque prowess in the arena is placed first be- cause of its preéminence as a sport of the Spanish nation, but the really noteworthy

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82 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph from Pio Noriega ALSO PAGE 80) It was here that King Pelayo withstood the onslaughts of Al-Kamak, the Moor. A sarcophagus within the chapel is supposed to contain the remains of the Christian hero as well as those of his wife, Gandiosa, and his sister, Hormesinda. The occupation of Spain s a : by the Moors is still evidenced here and ther yen in the northern provinces, by bits of architecture, watch-towers, and names of villages and streets. THE GROTTO OF COVADONGA (SEE

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THE LAND OF excellence of the Basque sportsman lies in no more nor less than playing ball. He is a born ball-player and knows the game from all angles—factory hand, miner, and manager alike. Alas, it is not baseball, but the great 3asque ball game, juego de pelota— democratic and popular as is the national game in America. One sees the boys in the villages hard at it, and in the cities the fond Basque parent, like the Ameri- can, is sometimes caused a violent shock by the smashing of a pane of glass in the dining-room, caused by the unwelcome entry of a pelota, a little smaller and a little harder than a baseball. PELOTA HAS MADE ITS WAY TO SPANISH AMERICA Pelota excels in its professional form and has become so popular that games may be seen not only in the Basque prov- inces, but also in Barcelona, Madrid, and even in Havana and Buenos Aires, the players being of Basque parentage in nearly every case. The game is, perhaps, a more violent form of sport than baseball, and in many respects closely resembles squash rackets. Only four players are engaged—two on a side—dressed in white trousers, white blouse, and white shoes, one side wearing wide red sashes of silk around the waist and the other side blue. The courts, called frontones, are 36 feet wide and 210 feet long, with floors of cement and with a high cement wall at one end and along one side. Each player wears a sort of cestus on the right hand, firmly fastened to the fore- arm, which constitutes the racket or bat. The ball is thrown from the curved cestus, at terrific speed, against the front wall, so that it usually rebounds at an angle against the side wall before touch- ing the floor, and, as in rackets, the play- ers alternate in returning the throw. The game becomes so rapid in action at times that the ball is scarcely visible to the “pelota fans” along the side line and can be followed only by the sharp crack with which it hits the front wall. Each failure to return the ball counts a point to the opposite team, but they do not call it a point; that would have no Spanish touch; it is called by them a tanto, in other words, a ‘“‘so-much.” THE BASQUES 83 Photo: ph by Casa Las. OLD AND NEW DURANGO A MEDIEVAL CROSS WITH TESTAMENT CARVINGS: _ The quaint old town of Durango is situated in a wide upland valley inclosed by lofty moun- tains. Its chief pride is this cross and San Pedro de Tavira, one of the oldest churches in the que provinces,

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84 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE rar. 7 OX] a Sse Kt Photograph by Casa Lux THE VIZCAYA BRIDGE BETWEEN LAS ARENAS AND PORTUGALETE ing steamers pass on their from a high cross-bridge, on the opposite bank. This is the “Puente Trasbordador,” under which the ocea way up the Nervion River to Bi A “flying ferry” hun carries as many as seventy persons e trip across to Porte There is a bridge of similar construction at Duluth and another at Marseille

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 85 Another popular sport in the Basque provinces is one confined to the iron min- ing regions—that of stone-drilling. Only the strongest of miners are physically capable of engaging in these contests of muscular force, and there have been many instances of death from overexertion dur- ing these battles of human energy thrown against large blocks of rock. It would be difficult to find a sport any- where in the world that so taxes the power of endurance of the participants. It is in many ways a cruel spectacle. I once mentioned this to a Basque, and his scornful reply was: “Yes, perhaps; but not half so cruel as your prize-fights in America.” HOW THE STONE DRILLING CONTESTS ARE STAGED ‘These games are the occasion for great festivities in the mining towns. The champion from one little mining town will be sent to combat against the native son of another, and the betting, as well as the feeling, runs high. The home champion, generally a giant in stature, has been the popular hero of his district for weeks. In the Basque mining sections, as in those of other coun- tries, wages are high, and much of it is thrown away in drinking and gambling. Thus it happens that the hero spends the days preceding the fiesta in consuming the fine wines, champagne, and heavy dinners thrust upon him by his admirers rather than in intensive training, the idea ap- parently being that he cannot fail if he has been generously fed upon the fat of the land for a sufficient period. The day arrives. The invading barre- nador, or stone-driller, enters the town, stipported by most of the male population of his neighborhood with pockets full of duros to be placed upon their favorite. The town dignitaries appear upon one of the balconies of a prominent house on the small, carefully swept plaza. The other balconies all round the little square are soon filled, chiefly with women, while the men crowd onto the plaza itself, as close as possible to the rope which marks off the rectangle in the center where the contest is to take place. Great excitement is in the air as the last bets are placed. Two pairs of large oxen, straining at every step, slowly drag into the open space enormous blocks of stone, leaving behind them tracks of heavily packed earth. This is a diversion of primitive nature, probably so popular because all of the spectators are those who are faced with the dire necessity of earning their daily bread by the hardest sort of physical toil. To give “tone” to the occasion, there is first a short contest of wood-hewers, called in the Basque tongue aizkoralaris, who chop through logs laid out in the plaza. This, however, is merely an hors- d’oeuvre. Then exclamations of excited antici- pation are heard; the crowd presses a little closer to the roped arena. The two contestants appear and are loudly applauded as they remove caps and alpargatas and as each, barefooted, climbs upon his block of rock. Each rock has marked upon its top sur- face eight rings to indicate where the holes are to be drilled. The contest lasts two hours, and the winner is he who either has completed the perforations of the eight holes or who has advanced farther toward that end. The barrenadores, standing upright on the blocks of stone, place their heels to- gether, the feet forming a right angle close to the indicated marking on the rock. Between these bare feet the heavy iron bar in their powerful hands must rise and fall, each stroke deepening the hole. The slightest deviation in aim of any stroke, with the Herculean force of the barrenador behind it, would surely de- stroy a foot. Little fear of such an acci- dent, however, for their arms move up and down with the precision of a ma- chine. CONTENDERS ARE COACHED BY “GoD- FATHERS” Each of the contenders chooses a friend or two to act as coaches. These “god- fathers,” as they are called, stand near their champion, moving their bodies up and down like a pump handle, serving as a pendulum to regulate the strokes of the steel bar, They signal each blow with a “Haup—haup.” They tire sooner than the barrenadores themselves, and have to be replaced sev- eral times during the monotonous two hours.

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THE LAND OF THE BASQUES 87 Enthusiasm is at high pitch, however, during the last quarter-hour. The com- petitor who is seen to be losing is jeered by the adherents of his winning opponent, while his own villagers, whose combined wagers on his victory may aggregate sixty thousand duros (dollars), hurl vile epi- thets at their now disgraced hero. “More force, you pig!” “May the thief die!” The contest usually ends in a debacle. High words, and sometimes a free-for- all fight ensues. The winner is borne away on his friends’ shoulders to a nearby tavern, where wine will flow freely. The poor defeated barrenador slinks off alone, anx- ious to avoid the eye of man; in all prob- ability he will never return to the village where yesterday he was the most popular inhabitant. THE ARRESKU, THE FAMOUS BASQUE DANCE In the early evening, after a festival of any kind, dancing generally takes place, in open air, of course, as often as not in the village plaza. The students and other youths from the cities love to attend the village fétes. Most interest is taken in the arresku, the great dance of the Bas- ques. I have many times been instinc- tively fascinated in watching this spec- tacle, which slightly resembles a Polish mazurka. The sound of the pipe and tabor are heard in the lively cadences of the ar- resku. An expert dancer, master of cere- monies, as it were, advances in the space set aside for the dancing. Throwing his boina on the ground, he moves with a series of minute, rapid and intricate steps toward the woman he has chosen to be the “queen of the ball.” And no Basque woman, no matter how high her social standing, will refuse this honor. Seforas of noble rank have been seen taking part in this ceremonious dance opposite to peasant and sailor. The arresku is all a mass of intricate movements of feet, body, and arms, even the fingers playing their part, the partic- ipants advancing and retreating. Always the man is in the foreground, and he sim- ply seems to talk with his feet, while scarcely the finger tips of the partners touch during the whole dance. SAN SEBASTIAN LACKS BASQUE ATMOSPHERE In a description of the “New England of Spain” some mention must be made of San Sebastian, the second city in the Basque provinces, but the least Basque in characteristics. It is a modern town on the Bay of Biscay only a few miles from the French frontier, the summer residence of the royal family, and the most popular of Spanish resorts. It has a fine casino and an unrivaled bathing beach. Indeed, in many ways, San Se- bastian is a serious rival of Monte Carlo. The last night of my last visit to Spain was spent at this famous watering place. It was in winter; hence many shops and most hotels were closed. The casino of- fered the only amusement, and there were two friends playing at “trente et quar- ente” who attracted my attention—one a Castilian from Madrid, the other a Cata- lan from Barcelona. Even in the excitement of gambling, the marked regionalism of Spain could not be forgotten, They would play a while, then retire to the “bar Americano” to quench their thirst and to enter into a loud discussion as to why or why not the government should grant “autonomia” to the provinces of Catalonia. Their dis- cussion was much more heated than their cognac. Then they would lock arms and return to the gambling tables, INDEX FOR JULY-DECEMBER, 1921, VOLUME READY Index for Volume XL (July-December, 1921) will be mailed to members upon request.

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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A ROUGH DAY IN THE BAY OF Many a “rookie” in our new merchant marine well rer his sudden lo »f interest in all forms of nourishment, tumbling on board, the ship wallowing till her ribs crackec BISCAY members his first storm at sea and when walls of green water came 1,

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE By Freperick SimPIcH Aurnor or “Were Avam anp Eve Livep,” “Mystic Nevyer, tar Suta Mecca,” “Tue Rise or tHe New Aras Natrox,” “Avonc Our Sipe of THE Mexican Boroer,” “Every-Day Lire in AFGHANISTAN,” ETC. CEAN trade began on that event- ful day when restless, primitive man, piling his surplus grain and skins into his baggala, hoisted his clumsy mat sail and put to sea, venturing away to visit and barter for the first time on that distant, unknown isle whose peaks he could discern on clear days from the heights of his own coast home. What a picture to conjure with—that first ‘sailing day”! How fascinating to visualize that mud- walled village sprawling along a palm- fringed coast,* with a wailing group of half-nude, shapely brown women, bizarre in jangling anklets, shell beads, and ham- mered earrings, calling wildly to the stars to save their men from the perils of the sea; timid, wondering children; bearded, turbanned old croakers of the tribe sagely predicting calamity for the foolhardy voyageurs. Then followed weeks of despair among the wives, and finally the triumphal re- turn of the sailors, their crude craft piled high with strange, delicious new foods and odd woven stuffs. Perhaps there were Bahrein pearls, amber, and beautiful slave girls for the master’s harem, and thrilling tales to tell of great adventure, new gods and new life on far shores— the beginnings of geography! THE SEA-TRAPER 18 THE GEOGRAPHER PRACTICAL ‘To me, sea-traders have always seemed such practical geographers. Columbus and Magellan were the kings of explorers, of course; Drake and Haw- kins were gentlemanly pirates; Peary and Scott courageous scientists, whom the world is proud to honor. But the sea-trader! Whether he runs his own foul little tramp schooner or sits in New York or London and directs a great merchant fleet, he must know not only his map, his ports, his winds, cur- rents, and climates, but his people, their : * Tradition says that the Phoenicians or the tribes on the north shore of the Persian Gulf were probably the world’s first sea-traders. 89 politics, their products, needs, whims and manners, their language and their preju- dices. How many of the once blank spaces on the map have been filled in for us, not only as to the names and locations of towns, mountains, and rivers, but also as regards the true characteristics of a peo- ple, by the world’s great traders, like the fur-buyers and the tea merchants! How intimately many a Yankee trade scout knows his world map! THE ROMANCE OF GEOGRAPHY IN THE PURCHASE OF HAIR In Hamburg recently I met a breezy man who owns a brush factory in Brook- lyn. “We make brushes for teeth, type- writers, hats, horses, or shoes, or to paint anything from a miniature to a barn,” he told me. “I’m off now to Russia to look for pigs’ bristles or horses’ tails. Get in? Of course! I'll get in by Riga or Odessa, unless the Bolsheviks drive me back. If they do, I'll go around by Vladivostok, or go up to Peking and try to work in via Kalgan and Urga. “Last week I had to hire an airplane to get to Warsaw, and maybe I'll have to do it again. But I'll get into Russia somehow. “The boys in our New York office call me the Russian Hair Hound, because if there’s any good, stiff hair flying loose anywhere between Baikal and the Baltic, I always manage to grab it and bring it back to Brooklyn to make brushes.” The names of foreign places mean more to such a man than mere red dots and circles on the map. Geography to him is more than the science of places, more than a mere answer to the geographic question, “Where? THE TRADER KNOWS HIS WORLD CUSTOMER Men like the “Hair Hound”—and there’s a host of his sort among our modern traders and exporters—can do more than “bound” Burma or name the towns in Turkestan, They can tell you what, and |

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90 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE MAN WOMEN HANDLING MAIL Many of the parcels-po: s pack women. In world trade the parcels-post ystem p s in European countries are handled by an enormous pa Millions of pounds of food, clothing, and manufactured goods are sent by this service every year. A MAIL DELIVERY IN SWITZERLAND

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92 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE “EVERY TIME AN AMERICAN KIDDIE WRECKS AN IMPORTED TOY IT MEANS MORE TRADE FOR THE TOY-MAKERS OF NUREMBERG” This picture is not an interior view of a taxidermist’s shop nor a miniature Noah's ark; it is simply a toy shop in full blast. E tf DECORATING CHINAWARE BY HAND Every time a waiter in Denver drops a plate it means business for a potter in Dresden, or did before the wa For years our big hotels depended largely on the pottery-makers of Saxony. In recent y , what from war, fuel sh , strikes, and other troubles, the exports of chinaware and glass from Germany to the United States have been very small.

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 93 HOPS FOR HOME BREWERS For generations a great annual hop market has been held at Nuremberg. u ll over Europe swarm to this old town, where giant bags of hops from breweries ile are piled in the streets. how much, the white or black or brown races in far-away lands are producing above their own needs, and they know in what language to write to them, and what steamer line or connecting railway offers quickest, cheapest freight haul. Figuratively, these men know whether Fiji or Formosa wants furniture or foun- tain pens, calico or corned beef, pink pills or canned peaches, baby-grands or baby buggies. They know, for example, much more of France than was contained in that classic paragraph of your old school geography which, after naming the cities and rivers, generously added: “The in- habitants are a gay and frivolous race, addicted to light wines and dancing’! A KNOWLEDGE OF GEOGRAPHY THE INTERNATIONAL IN VITAL TO IR Trade has been called the “economic fruit of geographic environment’; and whether a bold Yankee firm pioneering for trade will invest the first million in a foreign land depends almost slavishly on geographic considerations. A well-known banker has vigorously Every auttumn asserted that commercial geography is the most important part of an international banker's education; that is, before he opens a branch in Cairo or Calcutta or urges a merchant to seek trade there, he must know the local situation not only as to money, politics, and native character- istics, but also as to climate, rainfall, crops, and communications. Prof. J. Russell Smith says: “That the trader should know the people with whom he trades is a truism. . We must give them what they want. I recall in this connection a ludicrous old story con- cerning the clock trade in Africa. “The English had been supplying a great number of cheap alarm clocks to a jungle tribe. Suddenly the trade ceased. Investigation showed the entire clock trade had been taken over by a German firm, which had, after looking into it, found out what kind of a clock the A fri- can really wanted. “The native had no knowledge of time; he merely liked to look at the shiny nickel thing in his grass hut, and to hear it tick. With this cue, the German had hurried

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 91 “COAL IS LIFE” AND THE GREATEST OF ALL CARGOES Germany, under the terms of the Versailles Treaty, must deliver millions of tons of coal each year to the Allies. Because of labor shortage, women are used on much surface work. THE PORT OF DANZIG, NOW A NEW FREE CITY, POLAND’s “WINDOW TO THE BALTIC”

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94 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE INLAND WATER TRANSPORT IS ONE OF GERMANY’S GREATE Some of the canal-boats are still poled or pulled by men, though many are equipped with engines. PUTTING A BOVINE PASSENGER ASHORE More than 20,000 steamers, ba and tugs—over 5,000,000 tons of shir Rhine. Here is an e in all—ply the

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 95 home. If it was the ‘tick’ the African wanted, he would supply it. So out came a kind of clock that sounded like a boy with a tack-hammer. Delight ran through the leafy woods of Africa, and the Ger- man clock went like wildfire!” HOW OVERSEAS TRADE DEVELOPED A hasty sketch of the high points in the history of world trade proves how much our map and its peculiarities have influ- enced all buying and selling. It was the geographic pioneering of bold Latin sea-rovers in the fifteenth cen- tury that gave Europe its first adventure in ocean commerce. Up to that time, trade between nations had been carried on by caravans or mere coast boats. Even to this day it is possible to trace some of the old overland “silk routes” from China to Syria, to Poland, and to the Rhine; they always began in one great political center and ended in another. In those days, too, sea-traders with cargoes from the Levant began to feel their way across the Mediterranean, while Chinese junks even ventured around to India and up the Tigris. Incidentally, it was this timid venturing along coast routes that maintained the commercial supremacy of Italy from Roman times till the Renaissance, Italy’s bootlike pe- ninsula making of her a great mole or pier extending down into the Mediter- ranean. Because of the warlike Turks and their depredations on the caravans that fol- lowed the overland trail of Marco Polo, Europe became more and more anxious for a sea route to the legendary riches of India. And finally, thanks to doughty old Vasco da Gama, one of the boldest geographers of his day, the staunch wind- jammers of Lisbon reached the west coast of India. Six years previously, the greatest of Italian navigators had put to sea flying the flag of Spain and found a New World. Thus these daring sailors not only put new continents on the map, to the con- sternation of the geographers of that day, but they brought on the greatest political and economic crisis that the world had ever known. For two centuries Europe was shaken as a result of these voyages, and the cen- ters of power shifted from the Mediter- ranean to the Atlantic coast—that is, from Venice and Genoa to Spain and Portugal ; then to France, to Holland, and finally to England. When bigger ships came into use, and when the importation of gold, diamonds, slaves, silks, and spices was followed by the import of more bulky raw materials, which were in turn exported in the form of manufactured goods, England crowded ahead. Her splendid geographical posi- tion, her harbors, her coal and iron mines, enabled her to gain the mastery of the seas. WHEN AMERICA TOOK ITS PLACE AMONG SEA POWERS Tracing the mastery of the seas down through the centuries, from the days of the supremacy of Tyre, nation by nation, until England assumed the leadership, William Brown Meloney, in “The Her- itage of Tyre,” says: “In England’s hands the Pheenician trident became a magic wand. A hand- ful of islands burgeoned into such an empire as Rome might have been had she worn her sword more in its sheath. Brit- ain became Great Britain, London a sec- ond Tyre, and Bristol another Venice. Yet in a moment when Britain was never so powerful, never so great, a new peo- ple—a people whom the family of nations barely deigned to notice—claimed coheir- ship. In the eyes of an astounded world the United States established her birth- right in the freedom of the seas as no other heir of Tyre had ever done.” What heart does not thrill at the mem- ory of those proud days of the Flying Cloud, the Belle of the Sea, or the Red Rover, when America carried 92 per cent of all her overseas trade in her own bot- toms! When our “cod-headed, mackerel- tailed” clippers could make the Calcutta run in 95 days; when the famous James Baine logged 21 knots with mainskysail set and made a world record! The story of the misfortunes of the sixties and the decline of our merchant marine is familiar. Even when Roose- velt sent The Fleet around the world, we had to depend on foreign colliers. OUR MERCHANT MARINE RETURNS But today, from Memel to Melbourne, our merchant ships—stupendous heritage

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96 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE © Chas, Trampus A HAMBURG TUG THAT “WENT ON THE BEACH” AT HIGH TIDE AND REMAINED THERE AN INCIDENT OF SEA TRADE: of the World War—are poking their newly painted noses into every harbor of the world. Look at a Shipping Board chart and see how our lines encircle the earth. With a trained, alert consul in every for- eign port, his big freighters on every sea and a navy to protect them, Uncle Sam has indeed fully atoned for the misfor- tunes of the sixties; he has vindicated himself and recovered his rightful place among sea-traders. But to hold this place he knows he must fight, fight boldly, skillfully, and doggedly, with all the deft weapons of commerce and diplomacy; for the war so upset world economics that he now finds himself in an unprecedented international position. Other nations owe him more than ten billion dollars—three times his own na- tional debt in 1914. A swiftly rising im- migrant tide flows to America in a human stream from all the lands of Europe. Every week our factories turn out ship- loads of goods above our own require- ments, for which we must find markets abroad, in competition not only with our late allies but with other nations now struggling desperately for economic life. THE STELLAR ROLE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL IN THE DRAMA OF TRADE And now, as in that keenly competitive commercial era of the old Venetian traders, no actor plays a more interesting or adventurous role than the consul. In this war-after-the-war, this big bat- tle for world trade, our consuls are scouts and reporters in foreign lands. They keep us informed by mail and cable not only on every phase of our own foreign business, but on the activities of world competitors, so that we may shape our policies accordingly. In the State Department at Washing- ton there’s a big map of the world bris- tling with colored pins, like a war map of the general staff. This map shows where our consuls are posted. There is a dense flock of pins covering Europe and Latin America and thin patches over Africa and Asia. These pins indicate how enormously trade is ruled by the peculiarities of the map and the distribution of various races and industries.

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98 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A BLACK FOREST WOMAN SPINNING HER FLAX Here, as in the Spreewald. the oldtime spinning-wheel is used. Our merchant fleet in foreign waters is the special charge of these consuls. If an American ship “piles up” on the rocks, the nearest Yankee consul takes charge of the wreck and cares for the crew and passengers. Mutinies and tariff tangles, quarantine and emigrant trade troubles, are all aired before the consul, and the American seaman out of a berth in for- eign parts is sure of aid at the Sign of the Eagle. In fact, so heavy has the consul’s task become, under the extra burdens imposed by our enlarged fleet and increasing trade, that the expansion and further improve- ment of our foreign service is imperative if we are to protect adequately our people and their interests overseas. Many countries doubled their popula- tion in the last century. In Berlin, where I write this, the theory prevails that overpopulation was the in- direct cause of the war. Ratzel, a Ger- man writer, says that since population grows while the earth’s habitable areas are fixed, the earth must be made to yield more in order to feed its increasing in- habitants; that thus land values rise, and states are led to fight for more territory and to seek foreign markets. THE NOMAD YIELDS TO TITE FARMER Nations can no longer measure their greatness, as the Romans did, by count- ing the tribes they have conquered; to- day power is shown by the use a nation

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 99 WHERE THEY KE The United States handles three-fourths the world the proportion of pigs to people is de the Chinese and Malays, no other animal is more his makes of its resources and the extent to which it buys and sells overseas. The picturesque nomad of Arabia or Turkestan, though he contributes occa- sional wool and hides to the world’s trade, is not really worth his space on the map, judged by modern economic stand- ards, So, gradually, in Egypt, Mesopo- tamia, and western Siberia, irrigation, rail- ways, and the stubborn tide of immigrant farmers are forcing the nomad to aban- don his roving life and go to work or go the way of Lo, our poor Indian. MIRACLES OF CHANGE WROUGHT IN ‘AST THE In the Levant the geographical conse- quences of war have affected the trade of the world to a striking degree. Bound- ary lines have twisted, caliphs have gone down and kings come up. Over all is the shadow of the famous Bagdad Railway and the odor of oil. of P THE PIG IN THE PARLOR all the world’s pork exports, and all over Among European peasants, as among hly prized or so carefully nurtured. Persia, fighting bankruptcy for 400 years, is suddenly galvanized into new life by the Anglo-Persian Oil Company’s great works on the Karun. A whole world watches the mandate experiments in Mesopotamia and Syria, speculates on the problems of Palestine and its Jewish home, and follows with interest the struggles of Armenia and Georgia toward democracy. Old caravan trails, blazed long ago by Hittites, Medes, and Persians, are being abandoned as new governments, new borders, and railways bring new channels of traffic and sweeping changes in the trade geography of this old Bible land. Obscure, squalid, and once little-known ports are busy with new life. England is spending millions at the Palestine port of Haifa. Basra, old haunt of Sinbad the Sailor, becomes again, after ages of neglect, the great port of the Persian Gulf.

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100 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE MARBLE FOR BAR-ROOMS, BATHS, AND TOMBSTONES These blocks are being hauled from the famous qua at Carrara. sits on the ox-yoke, riding backward, to get a more convenient crack at the lazy oxen, From this fine marble everything, from vases and Venuses to tubs and monuments, will be made. MERRY CHRISTMAS! Turkeys herded in the streets of Durazzo, Albania. These birds are driven across country to market, as cattle are driven in our country,

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE a! A STREET SCENE IN SMYRNA, WEST 101 ‘RN TERMINUS OF THE ANCIENT CARAVAN TRAILS FROM ASIA TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Bagdad, asleep for a thousand years, now has telephones, “movies,” “flivvers” and electric fans, new railw in three directions, and airplane flights to Mosul and Teheran. Yet when I lived there, ten short years ago, we were often shut off from civilization for weeks by Arab wars. Bedouins, carrying their spears, rode through the streets on camels, and at night a nervous Pasha closed the great gates of the walled city to shut out marauders from the desert. WHAT AMERICA GIVES AND WHAT SHE RECEIVES Look at our steamship lines as marked on a map and see how foods, clothing, machinery, manufactures, and raw ma- terials flow up and down the world and around it, like the currents of air and water. Our own trade routes run everywhere, but the heaviest lines go to Europe and the other Americas; then to Asia, Ocean- ica, and Africa. More than half our imports are in crude or partly manufactured form; food makes up less than one-fourth. With the break-up of the cattle ranges in our own West, we depend more and more on Mexico and South America for beef. But even these great cow countries cannot feed the whole hungry world in- definitely, and many cowmen say the day is coming when the vast grassy plains of Mongolia and eastern Russia, now so scantly utilized, will be the grazing grounds for additional millions of sheep, cattle, and goats, and that the Mongols, the Kirghiz, and the Turkomans may be- come the future cattle kings of the world, with packing plants from Urga to Samar- kand. From the hot lands come raw materials like Philippine hemp, Indian jute, Mex- ican sisal, Brazilian and African rubber. From South America and Asia we get hides, skins, and bristles, while wool comes from Argentina and Europe. Our trade current from the tropics has grown vastly in recent years; so has our change of goods with Asia and the East Indies, where we trade machinery, drugs, flour, and manufactures for sil fibers, hides, coffee, tea, and rice. Borne by these same currents, the Yan-

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102 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A THRESHING TACHINE IN RUMANIA Horse and cow power, with a girl to drive. Here, too, an important market awaits the American salesman of harvesting-machines, A PUBLIC HORSE MARKET IN LOWER HUNGARY In America our old-fashioned “county fair: fair is still an important trade factor. The annual buyers from all ¢ senting 26 countr: e dying out. In Europe, however, the fairs a sipzig and Danzig are visited by yer the world. The last Leipzig fair was attended by 12,000 buyers, repre-

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 108 IN THE POPULAR MIND, HUNGARY IS THE HOME OF RHAPSODIES—AND GOULASH It is also a wonderful storehouse of foods, in normal times, Its thrifty folk grow and export fruits, vegetables, grains, and meats. kee type of culture is carried to all quar- ters of the globe. Riding a mule along the Chinese wall, I once came suddenly on a battered tin sign which some wag had nailed to that old Tatar barrier. It spoke of a town far back in America, a pleasant place by Lake Michigan famous long ago for a fluid our fathers fancied. Even the ubiquitous Yankee trade-mark breathes a geographic psychology all its own. From the mud walls of Bombay to the bill- boards of Brussels, our familiar adver- tising words and pictures, advance agents of foreign trade, cry a rude Yankee wel- come to the wandering American. Get off your steamer at any busy over- seas port and these American signs boldly greet you, inviting you to eat something “Made in the U. S. A.,” or drink it, or rub it in your hair, Esthetic souls may shudder, but to me there is something friendly, neighborly, in these familiar signs and phrases; they hint at old times and places, they suggest home. Our consuls say the theft of these Yankee trade-marks is a piracy carried to amazing lengths. The official bulletin of a certain government recently showed that in one month a local pirate had reg- istered 50 American trade-marks, for the evident purpose of exacting blackmail from the rightful owners when ready to enter that field. RIVERS AS TRADE FEEDERS In world trade, coast cities grow great- est when built on harbors that connect by rail or river with inland regions of dense population and large production. The sea made New York great and brought wealth to Baltimore and New Orleans. Hamburg, as a trade-feeder, serves inland Europe as far south as Vienna and Prague. Rotterdam, “the city of herrings,” waxes fat on the Rhine. From the wonderful development of this same Rhine we Americans, stagger- ing under high freights and congested railways, can learn a great lesson on “How to use rivers.” Navigable for 500 miles, the Rhine boasts more than 20,000 steamers, tugs, and barges—over 5,000,000 tons of ship- ping all crowded upon one swift, shallow stream. Competing railways cross it and run up and down both its winding, busy banks. Yet these flat-bottom Rhine side- wheelers are busy the year round, towing their long trains of laden barges from Rotterdam to Cologne, to Coblenz, Mainz, Mannheim, and even into Switzerland, as

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104 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE SOURCE OF CAVIAR The picture shows Russians taking the fish eggs for making this famous delicacy. DOUGHNUTS, NOT HORSESHOES! Every article, from toy balloons to kosher doughnuts and “fish-jam” (caviar), in the Moscow bazaar. In every E ean capital today merchants and diplomats are eanaily bent on working out some plan to start trade with Russia just as soon as political conditions will permit. Germany specially, confidently hopes to trade overland with Russia and Asia, thus getting food, wool, oil, and cotton and making up for the loss of her merchant marine.

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THE GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 105 KIRGHIZ NOMAD CHILDREN Many European economists say that when the world quiets down again a emigration will probably flow from central and western Europe to the vast . Here, in this middle of the world great cattle and sheep industry will one day develop, and that this region, of southern Russia and Transcauca great tide of toral regions s predicted a coupled. with it Siberia and Mongolia, may become man's chief source of supply of meat-producing animals, well as feeding the network of canals that ties into this great waterway. If we could get steamboat trade started again on the Missouri, for example, as in those glad, wild days when troop-carrying, Sioux-fighting stern-wheelers beat up the Big Muddy as far as old Fort Benton, think of the benefit accruing to the Kansas City grain exporter—a cheap, all-water haul, merely one reloading from the river barge at New Orleans to the ocean- going freighter. Such a combined river-sea freight serv- ice, with through rates from Rhine cities to oversea ports, was maintained hy the Germans before the war. No wonder the Mannheim manufacturer could sell cheaply in Bombay or Buenos Aires. This same inland waterway transport made it cheaper for Berlin to import hard coal from overseas than to burn native coal shipped by rail from southeast Germany, a few hours distant. No country affords a more striking ex- ample of the value of inland waterways in building up foreign trade than does Germany. One of the greatest sources of her economic strength was her incom- parable system of navigable rivers and canals, her improved ports and harbors, and her amazingly efficient cranes, der- ricks, and other mechanical aids for load- ing and unloading ships. THE ROLE PLAYED BY THE BOUNDARY LINE Man-made laws, as well as winds and tides, have their effect on shipping. Sugar, tobacco, and hemp, pearls, perfumery, and coconuts move freely from Manila to America because we enjoy mutual free trade. Toronto trades easily with Trini- dad, but the firm in Providence that makes rifles cannot ship to Mexico when an em- bargo happens to be on; nor can a dye- maker in Mannheim sell his colors to a Shanghai weaver without a government permit. Today you cannot take a souvenir tea-cup out of Germany without an erlaubnis any more than you can ship

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106 DOCK WORKERS, WITH THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE © Underwood & Underwood THEIR PECULIAR WHEELBARROWS, AT SHANGHAI When the truck follows the wheelbarrow in China (as roads are built) and trade with the hinterland grows, we shall come to depend more and more on China for various raw materials. trade has increased 500 per cent. a gill of gin from Jamaica to Baltimore and hold your pew. And what a role the red lines called boundaries play in commercial geog- raphy! What a startling cross-section of human life, civilization, manners, morals, and customs these dividing lines between nations often show! Flora, fauna, and climate of neighbor- ing countries may be identical, but the people, in race, religion and speech, mor- als and manners, how different! Yet their very needs, arising from their dif- ferent standards and tastes, their re- sources and products, lend impulse to barter and sale, lead one tribe to trade with the other, and so add to the complex commercial geography of civilization. It is freely predicted that China is now on the verge of what may be the gre economic growth that any nation has ever known, Even in the past 30 years her foreign In midwinter our Denver cafés serve ripe tomatoes from the Mexican west coast; and the sefioritas of Mazatlan, ordering their trousseaus by mail from California modistes, look on Los Angeles as the center of the world’s wealth, cul- ture, and fashion—amusing, perhaps, to New York or Paris, but only an accident of trade geography. Since the days of wampum, the unit of exchange has been a big factor in the world’s trade. Even money has a geog- raphy. The answer to the question, How rich are you? depends on where you are when you count your cash. Lately the gymnastics of the mark have turned German trade efforts back to the middle- age habits of barter; the Germans, ask-

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THE ing for raw cotton, offered to pay in socks and underwear made from that cotton. Geographically, England’s position as a distributing center is unique. Goods gathered there from the Seven Seas are easily reshipped to other nations on the Atlantic, the Baltic, or the rth Sea. Though she has no rich “back country,” few inland water- ways, and not fac- tories enough to keep all her ships busy, yet she is great and strong as a trader be- cause she draws on so many oversea colo- nies, Norway, on the other hand, being without colonies, but rich in ships and good harbors, charters her boats to others or sends them out as tramps to haul what they can find. Holland, though producing little and though only a speck on the map, occupies an enviable place in the foreign trade of Europe, lying, as she does, in the heart of the world’s commercial center. As traders, the Dutch are without peers. They have actually bought from us, and then undersold us in what we are pleased to call our own markets. HOW TRADE FOLLOWS THE FLAG Intense propaganda, not always com- plimentary to the rival, marks the fight of nations for ocean trade. To see that America is not sinned against is one of our consuls’ obligations Periodicals, lectures, fairs, motion pic- tures, and personal visits are all used to make sales, to say nothing of deals and secret compacts among governments. GEOGRAPHY OF OUR FOREIGN TRADE 107 SAWING WOOD IN CHINA The coolie’s pay is so small that he is never more than one day ahead of an empty stomach. To push its trade in the South Seas, Japan has set up a commercial museum in Singapore, and is opening a similar exhibit at Harbin for educational work in Manchuria, Mongolia, and Siberia. From that day in ‘98 when the influ- ence of the United States was first felt in the Philippines, the brown men there in to flourish. It was the first chance zation had given them. Today even the most chronic critics of our colonial policy admit that the uplift of Manila. largely due to its close commercial rela- tions with America, is a splendid demon- stration of how to carry the white man’s burden. Hawaii has increased its producing

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108 power perhaps fortyfold since of the Empire.” Porto Rico, basking in new-gained opu- lence, easily imports oversea luxuries and pays with native fruits at fancy prices, be- cause we gave her ships and honest rule. It is so in Guam; it will be so in the Virgin And, since each year we buy more and more from the tropics, it follows that eventually our possessions in the zone of coconuts and crocodiles will, with the aid of Yankee energy, capital, and codpera- tion, supply us with more and more hemp, jute, sugar, fruits, coffee, and tobacco, and maybe even silk, tea, and rubber, for which we now pay fabulous sums each year to foreigners. This prestige of the flag, backed by favorable treaties and a vigorous admin- istration, working through trained ccn- suls capable of protecting our interests overseas, imparts courage and enthusiasm to traders and bankers and builds up trade. Today, for the first time since Yankee whalers split the foam and cobalt from Ensenada to the Aleutians, Pacific paths are once more crowded with American ships, and our own trade with the East increased 300 per cent in the last five years, To study this culture, the life, lan- guage, and habits of oversea races, and to keep America posted on their needs and products is one of the consul’s chief functions. Man’s chief needs can be named on the fingers of one hand—food, clothes, heat, light—and of all these we are the world’s greatest producer. It is the very vastness of our own in- dustries and the immensity of our agri- culture which cause many Americans to “the days THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE overlook the fact that each year, as we grow, we must import more and more, to balance industry. Latin America is our greatest store- house, From her we draw hides, asphalt, tobacco, rubber, sisal, and fruits, as well as oil, silver, copper, zinc, wolfram, vana- dium, and iron ore, Without Cuba we should be quite su- garless and unhappy, and what an epi- demic of headaches from Maine to Cali- fornia if Brazil were to refuse that 98 per cent of all our coffee which now comes from her shores. Perhaps some of the factories in your own home town would have to shut down were we to be suddenly cut off froni the stream of raw materials that flows to us from the China Sea. A mere fragment this, in the great story of trade. But what a vivid, smash- ing world drama it is, this age-long battle of puny man, this magnificent struggle on land and sea, to live! The pirates and buccaneers, the China clippers and the bold Bedford whalers are gone forever, but the romance of trade and geography is not dead. Nor does it live only in the fiction of Conrad. It lurks even in restaurant menu cards. Stop and reflect the next time you order a dinner, from caviar to nuts. Think of the strife, the peril and adventure, of all those who fight in forest and jungle, on pampas and steppes, or go down to the sea in ships in order to feed and clothe the world. How amazingly complex is foreign trade, and yet how comfortable it makes at a debt we owe to that restless, imaginative man who first braved the un- known and brought back the new fruits and the strange slave girls—the pioneer of barter on the sea. A “COUNTRIES OF THE CARIBBEAN"’ MAP IN FEBRUARY @ babes its comprehensive map program of 1921, when large scale maps of the New Europe, of Asia, of South America, and of the Islands of the Pacific were issued as supplements to its Magazine, the National Geographic So- ciety has compiled a handsome map in colors of the Countries of the Caribbean which will appear with the February number. This map, size 44 x 25 inches, will show in detail Mexico, the new Republic of Central America (including Guatemala, Honduras, and Salvador), Costa Rica, Panama, and the Islands of the West Indies, together with large scale insert maps of Guantanamo Bay, Porto Rico and the Virgin Islands, and the Panama Canal Zone. Maps of Africa and of the World will be issued as supplements in subsequent issues of the Magazine.

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: Good pea soup—just taste it! | Pea soup is a favorite round the world. Just a dip your spoon tonight into a savory, creamy \| plateful of Campbell’s. | You'll say you never tasted such a pea soup—so mellow, so delicious, so rich in quality and satisfaction. (i Campbell's Pea Soup is made from dainty ; tender peas blended, according to Campbell's own recipe, with pure country milk and fresh creamery butter, delicately spiced. How you will like it! How to prepare Cream of Pea Simply by adding an equal quantity of milk or cream to i Campbell's Pea Soup just before serving you have a velvety, smooth, heavy Cream of Pea which will be one of your prize dishes. Even more attractive served in bouillon cups topped with whipped cream. 21 kinds 12 cents a can “Mention The Geographic—lIt identifies you”

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Works of the Western Electric Company; the manufacturing department of the Bell System Economical Equipment Forty years ago the management of the Bell Telephone System organized for a supply of the ap- paratus which it foresaw would be required in the development of its new industry—telephone service. The telephone in some countries is the luxury of the rich, but in America it is used by practically all the people. This universal service is due in large measure to foresight in engineering and manufacture. Switchboards with millions of parts, other apparatus of highest ef- ficiency, and all necessarily of com- plex and intricate design, cables and wires and a multitude of tech- nical devices enable our country to lead the world in telephone service. All this telephone equipment is toward Better Service made in a factory which is recog- nized throughout the world as hav- ing the largest production and the highest standards of workmanship and efficiency. This factory, controlled through stock ownership by the American Telephone and Telegraph Com- pany, has been for forty years the manufacturing department of the Bell System; with the result that the associated companies secure equipment of the highest develop- ment, made of the best materials, produced in accordance with the requirements of the public, and with the certainty of moderate costs. Economy in the Bell System begins with the manufacture of equipment. “BELL SYSTEM” AMERICAN TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH COMPANY AND ASSOCIATED COMPANIES One Policy, One System, Universal Service, and all directed “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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“They tell me...” OU WILL always find people ready to retail opinions on things they know nothing about—including investments. In the investment of your money, you should be guided by men of technical knowledge and experience. The security back of every bond we offer has had the careful scrutiny of our officers, If such care in the choice of securities inter- ests you, we suggest a study of our monthly Purchase Sheet. Sent on request for AN-173. The National City Company BONDS — saa, Si National City Bank Building, New York SHORT TERM NOTES = = ACCEPTANCES Offices in more than 50 leading cities throughout the World ___———__________— SS a a ee ee “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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When light rings flash their warning Each Kodak Anastigmat is fashioned to conform to a master glass that is really another lens of equal but opposite curvature. The master glass represents the perfect optical curve and the lens must fit it exactly —ewact/y. The test to determine when this result has been secured is a very delicate and a very pretty operation. If, when the expert brings the two lenses into contact, vari-colored light rings appear, some slight difference in curvature must exist. Even though this difference may be infinitesimal, the light rings flash their warning. It is only when careful readjustment on the polishing machine has successfully corrected this error and the form of the light rings proves this fact, that the lens is good enough to become a Kodak Anastigmat. Do you know how a lens forms an image or why cameras have different kinds of lenses? Both of these questions, and others, you will find answered in a complete and interesting fashion in the little free booklet “ About Lenses". We should like to send you a copy. “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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The New Vacation American Ships will take you to a new playground in South America OUaretired of the old Winter vacation round. You want something new. Swift U. S. Government ships have put a fascinating new playground within easy reach. They have smashed all speed records between New York and South America. Now you ean find a new and glorious Summer in just 11 days. Hotel Luxury at Sea When you step aboard one of these palatial liners for a flying trip to South America you will find yourself among all the comforts of a great modern hotel. Staterooms are luxuriously appointed, social rooms exquisitely beautiful. Real beds, not berths, electric radiators and fans, bed reading lamps, running hot and cold water, equip every room. Most of the rooms have private baths. All rooms are outside. The food on these ships is American and as, prepared by Munson Lines chefs, is unsurpassed on the seas. For information in regard to sailings and accommodations, addres Munson Steamship Lines 67 Wall Street New York Managing Operators for the U.S. SHIPPING BOARD WASHINGTON, D. C. Send for Booklet Send in this information blank now, no matter when you are thinking of travel- ing. In return you will receive a booklet on South American travel and a pam- phlet of information for travelers or—if you prefer it, booklets telling about travel to other parts of the World. Merely in- dicate your wish in the coupon. No obligation is involved. If you cannot travel clip the information blank and give it to some friend who may. Help to build your Merchant Marine. M INFORMATION BLANK U. S. Shipping Board Information Desk 1551 Washington, D. C. Please send me the U. S. Government Booklet and Literature describing the Places I may visit. I am considering a trip to South America (1) to Europe 1 the Orient (. If 1 go date will be about____ My Name. My Street No. or R.F.D. Town. State.

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Steamboat Days in New Orleans ai Bee romance of the old Mississippi River steam- boat days hangs over New Orleans. Quaint, tall- funnelled side wheelers, recalling the heyday of nine- boiler floating palaces and thrilling river races, still nose their way up to the levees. As a Mississippi pilot, Samuel Clemens, famous humorist, often visited the Crescent City. He speaks interestingly of Creole restaurants and the beauty and gaiety of French New Orleans. Its famous cafes and shops, its Mardi Gras and its picturesque river trips continue to enchant the visitor. By all means, stop over there on your trip via the Sunset Route. Sia’fusas. ~=SUNSET LIMITED | siveantics Operated over a mild, sunny route all the way, free from ice and snow. Observation Car, Through Dining Car and other comforts of modern travel. Daily Through Tourist Sleeping Car Service between Washington, D.C. and San Francisco. Tri-weekly Sleeping Car Service between New Orleans and Los Angeles via Globe, Arizona, for the side trip to ROOSEVELT DAM on the APACHE Sunset Route @ » California Every mile a scene worth while For Information and Literature address SOUTHERN PACIFIC LINES New York New Orleans Houston Tucson San Francisco 165 Broadway Pan American Bank Bldg. Southern Pac. Bldg. Score Bldg. Southern Pac. Bldg. “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Free Booklet A Beautiful Jell-O Book will be Sent Free to any address upon request. q yi Dore WeeH ASA ‘( DESSERT—to be right—should not be a heavy course. It should be light and easy to digest, and at the same time, good. That is Jell-O. It rounds out a meal with a satisfying sweet touch that appeals to every member of the family. A pleasant dessert makes the entire meal seem “special.” It is remembered for a long time. The American Offices and Factory The Offices and Factory of The of The Genesee Pure Food Com- Genesee Pure Food Company of pany are at Le Roy, New York, Canada, Ltd., are at Bridgeburg, in the famous Genesee Valley. Ontario, on the Niagara, JELL- cAmerica’s Most Famous Dessert “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Now-~only Il days Across t 5 Pacific | fe is now possible to travel on U. S. Government ships from Seattle to the Orient in just eleven sailing days. For the first time, American standards of comfort and living have been combined with American speed in trans-Pacific travel. Yokahama, Kobe, Shangai, Hong Kong and Manila have been brought a thousand miles nearer, These new, luxurious Gov- ernment liners— your ships—save five precious days across the Pacifie. Yet while the voyage is swift in fact, it is swift in enjoyment, too. The delightful days on shipboard slip by almost before you know it. On American Ships They are the logical meeting places for Americans traveling to the Orient. American Comforts The spacious staterooms on these ships are furnished with beds, instead of bunks. All rooms are outside. Most have private baths. All are equipped with running water, private toilets, bed reading lamps, electric radiators and fans. Social rooms, luxuriously furnished in faultless taste, are exquisitely beautiful. The convenience of this passage to the Orient is only equaled by the ease with which you can reach Seattle. Four great railroad terminals connect this port with every section of the country. Americans are educated to a higher standard of comfort than perhaps any other people. Naturally they prefer American ships. These new Government vessels, manned by American crews, offer the finest of American food, carry the home atmo- sphere to the very gates of the Orient. Send for Booklet Your Government wishes the name of every pros- pective traveler. Send the information blank now if you are considering a trip abroad and you will help your Government. You will receive valuable informa- tion covering every phase of your trip—information usually obtained by days of interviewing officials. You will be under no obligation, Send the informa- tion blank now and learn what your ships have to offer. UNITED STATES SHIPPING BOARD Information Office 1551 Washington, D. C. If you cannot go abroad, clip the coupon and give it to a friend who may. Urge him to = send it in, AND THUS YOU HELP YOUR Fou MERCHANT MARINE. For information regarding accommodations, address THE ADMIRAL LINE L. C. Smith Building, Seattle, Wash. 17 State Street New York City Managing Operators for the U.S.Shipping Board 4 INFORMATION BLANK To U.S. Shipping Board Information Office 1551 Washington, D. C, ee Please send me without obligation the U. S. Government Booklet. Tam considering a trip to The Orient 0 South America (J Europe 0. If 1 go date will beabout____ My Name ss My Street No. or R.V.D- — 2 a “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Be More Careful of your teeth—combat the film If you are brushing your teeth in a wrong way, learn what this new way means. Authorities now advise it. Leading dentists everywhere are urging its daily use. Mil- lions of people employ it. Make this ten-day test and let the results show you what clean teeth mean, That dingy film Film is that viscous coat you feel. It clings to teeth, enters crevicesandstays. That is what discolors—not the teeth. Film is the basis of tartar. It holds food substance which ferments and forms acid. It holds the acid in contact with the teeth to cause decay. Germs breed by millions in it. They, with tartar, are the chief cause of pyorrhea, Dental science has in late years found two ways to fight film. It has proved them by careful tests. Now they are embodied in a new-day tooth- paste—called Pepsodent—for daily application. Other new effects Pepsodent brings three other effects, natural and very important. It multiplies the salivary flow — Nature’s great tooth- protectingagent. Itmultiplies the starch digestant in the saliva, to digest starch de- posits. They may otherwise cling and form acids. It multiplies the alkalinity of the saliva, to neutralize the acids which cause tooth de- cay. Thus every use does five things which dental authori- ties now regard as essential. You'll quickly see A 10-Day tube of Pepsodent is sent to all who ask. That shows the delightful effects. In a week you will realize that this method means much to you and yours. Send the coupon for it. Note how clean the teeth feel after using. Mark the absence of the viscous film. See how teeth whiten as the film-coats disappear. Watch all the effects, then read the reasons in our book. That test may lead to life- long benefits. Cut out the coupon now. 10-Day Tube Free THE PEPSODENT COMPANY, Dept. 513, 1104S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill. Mail 10-Day Tube of Pepsodent to Pepsodent REG.VU.5. The New-Day Dentifrice A scientific film combatant, whose every application brings five desired effects. Ap- proved by highest authorities, and now ad- vised by leading dentists everywhere, All druggists supply the large tubes. Only one tube to a family “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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PNENs Cette w Coyest-t Save $200 to $800 An Aladdin Home in Stucco Aladdin suecess is chiefly due to the money saved for Aladdin home owners. You will save a substantial amount thru eliminating dealere’ saving over 18 percent waste and lowering labor costs Aladdin Homes come to you direct from one of our mills located in the nearest timber coun- thereby reducing freight s. They are built of standard- zed materials saving waste, and are cut to fit saving hundreds of hours of carpenter labor. Over a hundred beautiful and modern homes are pictured and priced in the Aladdin catalog. Send stamps for this eata~ log No. 1614 at once. Ofeyrarecordialliyspwited tonisit cur Cxhilibat.the Sais Ark Gi Checage lou 9-9 calor Hy wcannet-accepttfct Jp ilar fave yoru fs inonstralete you, the Labor Saving and. Se Saye ‘qualities of Lehrade pivibial dive “A. SCHRADER’ S SON, INC. MAKERS CF THE SCHRADER UNIVERSAL TIRE VALVE BROOKLYN, N.Y. TORONT CHICAGO LONDON Reduce Labor Costs ‘The lumber that’s wasted costs just as much as the lumber that’s used. Aladdin can prove to you # saving of practically every fifth dollar spent for lumber. That's surely worth while. Aladdin can prove a saving of practically every fourth dollar in labor. ‘That’a worth saving too. Will you be satisfied to build with— out getting the Aladdin catalog and proving these statements? What You Get You receive in one shipment all the timbered frame work, millwork, the ing, outside finish, porch, shingles, windows, doors, interior woodwork, lath, glass, nails, hard ware, lock sets, paints, stains, and varnish. Send stamps today for Aladdin eatalog No. 1614, The Aladdin Co. Bay City, Michigan Branches ( Offices and Mills) Wil- mington, N. C.; Hattiesburg, Miss.; Portland, Oregon Canadian Offices and Mills: Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg St. John To the WEST INDIES Panama, So. America, and Windward Islands THE CANADIAN PACIFIC Offera Two Remarkable Cruises de Luxe by the Splendid ‘““EMPRESS OF BRITAIN” 22,200 tons displacement Largest Steamer to the Tropics Oil-burning—no coal dust—cinders—soot Ae LEAVING NEW YORK a. JAN. 21st and FEB. 21st \ 27 Days—Fares from $300.00 Havana (Cuba), Kingston (Jamaica), Colon (Panama), La Guayra (Vene- zuela), Port of ‘Spain and La Brea (Trinidad), Bridgetown (Barbados), Fort de France and St. Pierre (Mar- tintque), Charlotte Amalia. (St, Thomas), San Juan (Porto Rico), Nassau (Bahamas), Hamilton (Ber- muda), Appointments Equal Finest Luxurious Suites; Cabins with Bath; Gabins with Toilet; Electric F every room; Spacious Di ming Pool;’Veranda Cafe Orchestra Carried. No Passports Required For rates and full information apply to local agents or CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY Traffic Agents “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Simplicity and Refinement Characterized in ROCK OF AGES HOSE. upon whom falls the duty of selecting a suitable memorial will appreciate fully the need for such perfection in workmanship and material as will interpret truly the spirit which inspires its erection. In everlasting ROCK OF AGES Granite, with its silken polished finish and distinctive gray color, this perfection is realized. It is America’s finest monumental material and the pride of Barre,Vermont. Write for ROCK OF AGES booklet. BOUTWELL, MILNE & VARNUM COMPANY QUARRIERS MONTPELIER > VERMONT Our Certificate of Perfection Por ae A memorial selected by you is your guarantee of quality. ( yy) today will be a true ex- Request it when placing order. pression of your character. Refer to Dept. E “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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"THe GRAND DINING SALON of the S.§. “Paris” —a triumph of French art. It is in such charming environment that the traveler becomes acquainted with the justly famed cuisine Francaise. Here delicacies beloved by the connoisseur are prepared by chefs of dis- cernment—master artists. Whether on the giant Paris or on the other vessels of the fleet, one will finda culinary skill au supreme degré that haslong distinguished the Compagnie Générale Transatlantique. Write for illustrated booklet G2 containing valuable travel information for tourists in France—also interesting features of the French Line fleet © French fine COMPAGNIE GENERALE TRANSATLANTIQUE 19 STATE ST. NEW YORK y PLAN 2%. HOME Now Send for Stillwell Building Books with Economy Plans of new California Styles suitable for any climate. “Famous for comfort and beauty. “Representative California Homes” w Colonials” . 6 to 10 rooms—$1 PECIAL OFF “West Coast Bungalows" Send 32.50 for any th: 50 houses, 6 and 7 rooms—$1 Largest Steamer in the Trade of these books and get Ga- Little Bungalows" Sailing Every Saturday from New York rage Folder FREE. 76 houses, 3-4-5 rooms—$1 The Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. Money back if not satisfied : ; 26 Broadway, N.Y. 117 W. Washington St., Chicago E. W.STILLWELL & CO., Architects, 777 Cal. Bldg., Los Angeles Rainier Bldg., Seattle “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Take an After-dinner Tour There is a RAND MENatiy Atlas for every purpose. For home, oftice, library, the International Atlas. cers the world in eee ta S e, $10.00; leather, $15.60. For quick reference, the Complete Atlas, less expensive, not 80. ex- haustive ag the Inter- national. Maps and in- dexes only. Size 11x 14 204 pages—eloth, $3.5 For the desk, the Handy Atlas of the World. Maps, indexes, descriptiv ter. Size 6% For the ae or hand bag, the Pocket Atlas of the World, for convenient Maps, indexes and descriptive matter. 3% x 5M, 576 per, 75e: cloth, leather, $2.50. All the above Atlases show new boundaries, lat- est world statistics, new federal census. Circulars deseribi y of them gent on request. Ranp MCNatty & Co. BUY Have you—and your family ever toured the world, of an evening? You can. You can go to Venice, to Holland, to Spain and Morocco. You can sail the Grand Canal of the old Italian city of romance and glory; you can see the diamond- cutters at work in Amsterdam, the olive orchards in old Castile, old customs, old costumes and the land of bygone days in the country of the Moors. You need only a Ranp MENaLLy ATLAS OF THE WorLD and you may sail where you will—to Rangoon Burma, to the Straits Settlements, to Cape Town, Calcutta and Shanghai—and be back by bedtime. Here is an education for the whole family that turns study into a game of the World and sharpens interest and un- derstanding in old or young. Every home should have a Ranp M¢Natty ATLAS OF THE Worvp. It is informative. It is fascinating. It puts knowledge, valuable, useable knowledge, at the disposal of every member of the family. It answers a thousand questions. It furnishes a thousand subjects for study and discussion—at home or in a gathering of men and women. Boundaries in Europe have changed. There are new coun- tries now, in name and form. If you’ve never owned an atlas, you ought to own one now—a Ranp MENAL-y. It is filled with a wealth of new data that will astonish you. MENALIEY & GOMPANY Map Headquarters 536 S. Clark Street, Chicago 42 E. 22nd Street, New York THESE RAND MGNALLY ATLASES FROM YOUR LOCAL DEALER “Mention The Geographic—lIt identifies you”

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West Indies Cruises To the Brilliant and Sunny Playground of the Western World, On Board the Splendid White Star Liner MEGANTIC The West Indies, Panama Canal and South America: Shake off your winter coat, shake off your winter mind and go down into these lands where sunshine, blue seas and tropic flowers call to the traveler. Nowadays, the West Indies lure by their picturesque and charming atmosphere, their quaint customs, their radiant beauty. The Panama Canal, Mecca of all good Americans, one of the most interesting places to visit on the face of the globe. South America, vitally interesting, foreign, beautiful, seen on these trips through carefully planned visits to La Guayra, port of Caracas, and to the ancient mountain capital of golden Venezuela. Go to these geographically near but romantically distant lands on board the White Star Liner Me- gantic. As ona private yacht, these cruises are conducted with the utmost luxury, perfection of detail in service, beautiful and restful trips ashore, and with every health-giving advantage. The Itine- rary: From New York to Cuba, Jamaica, Panama, Venezuela, Trinidad, Barbados, Martinique, St. Thomas, Porto Ric ssau, and Bermuda. Dura- tion of cruise approximately 28 days. No passports required. Rates, $300 and upwards. First Cruise, January 17. Second Cruise, February 18. Third Cruise, March 20. White Star service, known the world over as the utmost in ocean comfort . Beautiful color booklet sent on request YaWHITE STAR LINES7 AMERICAN Line = > 97 RED STAR LinE ARINE 9 Broadway, New York City INTERNATIONAL MERCANTILE ComPany ie bug Comior S$ to come, by mak- ing sure, ou build, that the material that goes into your new home will give you the greatest possible returns in comfort and satisfaction, NATCO HOLLOW TILE will afford. you the utmost comfort. Our free book “Natco Homes” contains photographs and plans of many economical and successful Natco homes and is just the thing for home planners, Write for your copy today. in building NATIONAL FIRE: PRGDFING * COMPANY 1327 FULTON BUILDING, PITTSBURGH, PA. Notes Reiidence at Kew Gardens, DL, Loy Slee and ‘Bryson. Architetts makes camera focus certain ba eta is more difficult than estimating distance by guess work—nothing more disappointing than a good picture guessed wrong. Out-of-focus pictures are no longer possible if, you use this prism range finder for focusing. Every focusing scale camera needs a Foto- Distance Meter—the first and only true optical instrument with prisms at this price. Test your scale, use this Meter, and focusing trouble is forever over. An ideal gift. Booklet on request. Roe HERBERT & HUESGEN co. 7 18 East 42nd Street S New York At better dealers everywhere eo ¥

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NOTE:—This announcement answers two questions that big e1 so practical? (2) Why don’t more men train with mployers repeatedly ask, viz: (1) sitions in business What makes LaSalle men LaSalle for the high pa; 2 The LaSalle Problem Method —and how it successfully condenses a lifetime of A question has blocked action on the part of many thoughtful men who were and are sincere in their desire to qualify in high salary fields. They have asked themselves whether training gained at home by correspondence might not prove to be mere “ book-learning”—impractical— unmarketable. We have no fault to find with this question—it is a natural one. The burden of our criticism rests on the man who per- mits the question to be its own answer, and to block and stop him in his upward climb without seeking further enlightenment. For when more than three hundred thousand men have trained with LaSalle and found bigger, better things thru this training there must be sound reasons for their success. There ave reasons. They lie in the LaSalle Problem Method of imparting —not “ book-learning but real, practical, usable business experience. A knowledge of principles is one thing. The ability to apply and use principles — actually do the work at hand, is another—and the gap between the two is bridged by one factor and one only — Experience, That's why business men place such a premium on experience—it safeguards them against costly experiments. Suppose you decided to take up as your life work —accountancy, say. Now stretch your imagination a trifle. Suppose that thru the offices of an influential friend, arrangements were made for you to step in and immedi- = experience into a few months of study You can answer these questions—your good sense tells you that the situation described would make you a practical man —sure, certain and confident—able and capable of holding down any situation the accounting field offered. ‘And that is why the LaSalle Problem Method makes practical men. Simply because the procedure outlined above is followed—exactly. True, you do your work at home, True, the help you are located here in Chicago. Nevertheless, under the LaSalle Problem Method you are actually occupying the position you are training to fill, whether _it be in the accountancy field, or traffic or business management, or law, or correspondence —irrespective of what you are studyin: you are acquiring principles and apply- ing them in actual business under the watchful eyes and helpful guidance of men big in your chosen field. And when you have completed your LaSalle work, you can truthfully say that you are not only a thoroly trained man, but an experienced man—you know the bed-rock principles and*you have used them all—they are familiar tools in your hands. A LaSalle man can walk in any- where with confidence. H- does not feel the uncertainty and fear that arise when one faces the new and unknown, Under the Problem Method he has explored his chosen field on his own experts who . the The LaSalle Problem Method gives you self- confidence — practical, usable knowledge — because it makes you an experienced man. feet—the questions, the problem difficulties—he has met, faced and conquered them all. ately occupy the position you intended training to fill—right in the organiza- tion of a big corporation—with a com- plete department under your orders. Say that by your side were plac guides, several high grade accountants— men of national reputation—their sole duty being to train and equip you. Jith these men instructing you in proper principles—then, you yourself exercising your own judgment in handling trans- actions and solving problems as they arose in your daily work —do you get the idea? You would be acquiring experience right along with the bed-rock fundamentals of the profession, Sitting in the chair of authority—dealing with actual business — learning by applying what you learned — with experts corrennny your errors, commending good work, fuiding you aright through the ramifications, routine and emergency situations of the entire accounting fi eld and . as your instructors and His experience makes him know that altho he may be assuming a new position at higher y, the duties of that position are an old, familiar story. Experience is cash capital in business. There are only two ways to get it. One is the old, slow, uncertain way. The man who chooses to learn a branch of business by picking it up bit by bit as he goes along, finds the years slip by faster than he thought and sometimes his progress not as sure as he had anticipated. For all the “bits of Fnowledge” he sought may not have come his way. The other road is short, sure and certain. It lies thru the Problem Method, exclusive with LaSalle Extension University. This way condenses into months ex- making you make good every step of the way—mind—not in P tlassroom, but right in a business office where you would be actually doing the work you were training for — , ~S\vouldn’t you, at the end of a year or soin ¢/is situation be much farther ahead than men who had spent years seeking the same knowledge in the old, hard, “‘find-out-for-yourself™ way? LaSalle Extension University The Largest Business Training Institution in the World nest when you y to yourself that you must do something to permanently increase your earning capacity.—then—check the coupon below in the square opposite that training which appeals Tt is a step you will never regret. And it is a step that is one hundred times a most to you. to make tomorrow a: is to take tod: ere’s that pen—never mind—a pencil will do just as well. — ————— —— —— — — — — — INOUIRY COUPO: LASALLE EXTENSION UNIVERSITY Dept. 1397- Please send me catalog and full information regarding the course and 8¢) perience which it takes most men a lifetime to gain, ‘President LaSalle Extension University, of Chicago, Iilin If you are N—— R CHICAGO, ILLINOIS vice J have marked with an X Elioe: ““Also'a copy of your booklet, "Ten Years’ Promotion in One,” all without obligation to me. Business Management: Training for Modern Forem: hip and Production CG Managerial, Sales and Executive Commercial Law Mothode: ‘Training in the direction and poritions. Industrial Management Efficiency: handling of industrial forces—for Execu- i fanagers, Superintendents, Con- For Executives, Managers, Office and Shop Employes and’ those desiring practi training in industrial management princi- ples and practice. tives, tractors, Foremen, Sub-foremen, etc. Personnel and Employment Manage- ment: Training for Employ- Higher Accountancy: Training for positions as Auditor, Comptroller, Cer- fified Public Accountant, Cost Account- Oo a ant, ete. Imployers, (i Tratfic Management Foreign and [[] Modern Business Correspondence and ment Managers, Executives, Industrial Domestic: ‘Training for positions ‘as Rail- Practice: Training for Sales and Collec~ Engineers. road and Industrial ic Manager, ete. tion Correspondents; Sales PromotionMan- Expert Bookkeeping: Training for posi- agers, Credit and Office Managers; Corre- spondence Supervisors, Secretaries, etc. anking and Finance: Training for éx~ ecutive positions in Banks and Financial Institutions, C. P. A. Coaching for Advanced Ac- countant: tion as Head Bookkeepet o Business English: Training for Business Correspondents and Copy Writers. (Commercial Spanish [_] Bifective Speaking Railway Accounting and, Station Man- agement: Training for Railway Auditors, “omptroliers, Accountants, Clerks, Sta- tion “Agents.” Members of Railway and Public Utilities Commissions, ete. (tew: Training for Bar; LL. B. Degree. = a Name. Present Position —_______ Address “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Science proves the danger of bleeding gums M{RDICAL science proves that un- healthy gums cause serious ail- ments. People suffering from Pyorrhea {a disease of the gums) often suffer from other ills, such as rheumiatism, anaemia, nervous disorders or weak. ened vital organs, These ills have been traced in many cases to the Pyorrhea germs which breed in pockets about the teeth. Four out of five people over forty have Pyorrhea. It begins with ten- der and bleeding gums. Then the gums recede, the teeth decay, loosen and fail out, or must be ex- tracted to rid the system of the infecting Pyorrhea germs. Guard your healthand your teeth. Keep Pyorrhea away. Visit your dentist often for teeth and gum inspection, and make daily use of Forhan’s For the Gums. Forhan's For the Gums will prevent Pyorthea— or check its progress—if used consistently. | Ordinary dentifricescannot do this. Forhan’s will keep the gums firm and healthy, the teeth white and clean. 35c and 60c wbes in U. S. and Canada Formula of RJ. Forhan, D.D.S, FORHAN Co, New York Forhan's, Lid, Montreal THIRD ANNUAL TOUR OF THE American Express Travel Dept. SOUTH AMERICA 64 days—visiting CUBA—PANAMA~—PERU—CHILI ACROSS the ANDES—ARGENTINE URUGUAY—BRAZIL Sails from New York, Feb. 11th via S. S. EBRO (Pacific Line). Return by S.S. AMERICAN LEGION (Munson Line) FOR THE GUMS THIS MAGAZINE IS FROM OUR PRESSES Both boats of the latest and most approved type for cruising in Southern waters. Every luxury for per- sonalcomfortand convenience.Excellent orchestra,con- certs, dances. Frequent stops afford ample time for delightful shore excursions, Experienced tour managers, ing the several languages, familiar with every Unstinted praise of all who sailed on our two Previous cruises assures the success, delights and pleasures of the present tour. JUDD & DETWEILER, INc. Master Printers Reservations rapidly filling ECKINGTON PLACE AND FLORIDA AVE, WRITE FOR BOOKLET AT ONCE AMERICANEXPRESS TRAVEL DEPT. 65 Broadway, New York WASHINGTON, D.c. “Mention The Geographic—It identifies you”

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Picturesque cAmerica LMOST next door to you is one of the quaint- est, most colorful regions of the world— Cuba, Jamaica, Panama, Costa Rica, Colombia and Guatemala. Easy of access, delightful to visit at any season of the year—on a Great White Fleet Cruise to the Caribbean, Twenty-three days of complete change and relaxation. Long, lazy hours at sea varied by the picturesque interest of foreign lands. No passports or sailing per- mits required from American citizens. Great White Fleet ships are especially constructed for Cruise Service. The newest and finest vessels sailing to the Caribbean. Unexcelled in appointments and cuisine. From New York and New Orleans. Only one class—first class. Write for free, illustrated booklet “Following the Conquerors through the Caribbean,” cabin plans and fare information, Address Passenger Department UNITED FRUIT COMPANY Room 1630, 17 Battery Place, New York General Offices: 181 State Street, Boston, Mass, On Your GREAT WHITE FLEET CARIBBEAN CRUISE

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- New Service to Summerland Only three days— New York to Nassau WEEKLY SERVICE TO NASSAU (BAHAMAS) In connection with Service to Eastern Cuba. Fastest and most direct route to Antilla, Nue- vitas, Bayamo, Camaguey, Ciego de Avila, Bartle, Santiago, Manzanillo, and all points in Eastern Cuba. Finely appointed Express Passenger and Freight Steamers: MUNARGO (new) and MUNAMAR From New York MUNARGO.. January 7th MUNAMAR .- ~___January 14th MUNARGO.- January 21st MUNAMAR .. January 28th Weekly during season thereafter. MUNSON STEAMSHIP LINES 67 WALL STREET, NEW YORK U. S. BRANCH OFFICES: PHILADELPHIA BALTIMORE CHICAGO ST. LOUIS MOBILE NEW ORLEANS ies 36 old world cities on the Gates Tour that takes you to Oberammergau NOW thsteonvenionew of tanllacng EAVING New York by one of the regular Gates Tours, your electric lights. Ask for DIM-A- sailings beginning in May, you will have 14 days in LETES Te screws into anyisockeriend hte France before seeing the Passion Play—afterwards there any lamp. Guard against disappoint- come 6 days in Switzerland and almost two whole weeks mmevit—make ure thacicia DIM-A-LITH. in Italy. In all 36 old world cities will be visited. Op- Tadicaclon. "ta: ittateary™ BUCS Wand tional dates of return and detours may be arranged. service, DIM-A-LITE carries an un- limired guarantee. ' Gates European Tours $395 up Covering steamship and hotel accomodations as well as WIRT COMPANY, Philadelphia, Pa. all ordinary sightseeing expenses. 8 Tours, founded in 1892, have earned a reputation o exclusiveness; Next time you see an Electric Shop think of they are in reality like a party of congenial friends on tour. oa Before you go to Europe, get the Gates Complete Tour [ef Booklet. Various tours fully described, costing from $395 upwards. Write today. Ask for Booklet “"A-12.” For Sale oa All Gates Tours include Paris and the Americun Battlefields GATES TOURS— Founded 1892 “World Travel at Reasonable Cost” 225 Fifth Avenue, New York London— Paris— Rome — = “Mention The Geographic—lIt identifies you”

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This is the Year to see China HINA is the place to go this year. Thousands of Americans are going. Swift new American ships have made Chi more accessible—and have made the journey across the Pac as comfortable as days in the finest American Hotels. There is more to see in China now. Side by side you may see the China of yesterday and the China of tomorrow. On one corner you may see the China of Confucius. On the next the undeniable handiwork of China—the modern Republic. The Sunshine Belt For 73 years The Pacific Mail Steamship Company has been known in every port on the Pacific. Their service is unexcelled. Now under their direction, new Government-owned ships have broken the speed record on the Southern route. The ships sail from San Francisco to Hawaii, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hongkong, and Manila over the “Sunshine Bel Stop-overs in any Eastern country may be arranged. A day's stop is made at Honolulu, giving the traveler sufficient time to see its pic- turesque life, to visit the beach at Waikiki, and view the near- by scenic wonders. Remember that this is the direct route to Japan and the Philippines, as well as to China, Every state- room is on the outside. Beds have taken the place of berths. Running water, electric fans, electric radiators, and bed reading lamps equip each room. Most of the rooms have private baths. You should know more about it. If you will send the infor- mation blank you will receive full particulars and descriptive literature. Address U.S. Shipping Board, Information Division 1551, Washington, D. C. If you cannot go abroad, clip the coupon anyway and urge some friend who may go to send it in. You will help to build your Merchant Marine. For information in regard to sailings and accommodations, address Pacifie Mail S. S. Co Managing Operators U.S. Shipping Board San Francisco, Cal. 508 California Street - - 11 Hanover Square - New York, N. Y. Send for Booklet If you are a prospective traveler, send the information blank now—no matter when you intend to go. You will want to know about this Sree: Pa ice—and what your ure doing in other parts of the word. Sending the information blank puts you under no obligation but it brings youvaluable information.Sendit now. ®.M. INFORMATION BLANK To U. S. Shipping Board Information Division 1551 Washington, D. C. — Please send me without obligation the U. S. Government Booklet and tell me about the service of the Pacific Mail S.S.Co. 1am considering a trip to The Orient O South America O Europe 0 If | go date will be about_ My Name__— ———— My Street No. or R.F. D.—— Town. State.

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Two years ago the LaFayette came to its first New York motor show sponsored only by our high enthusiasm and by our belief_that our work had been done exceedingly well To its third metropolitan show it comes now bringing the com- mendation of one thousand owners who have put the La- Fayette to the test of daily use and know whereof they speak LaFAYETTE MOTORS COMPANY at ers Hill Inpianarous “Mention ‘rhe Geographic—It identifies you”

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Live upon ever clean Rugs As recently as last fall, your rugs were taken up and cleaned. Yet they are packed, once more, with dirt. Tap your shoe on any rug and see the dust arise. Daily that gritty dirt, laden with germs, is tracked in from the streets. Tramped under foot, it settles deeply into rugs, to grind off nap and menace health. The bother of outdoor cleanings once excused its accumulation in rugs. Present standards of cleanliness do not. For it is now easy, with The Hoover, to beat out all such grit from rug depths. At the same time, this efficient cleaner also sweeps up stubbornest litter, erects crushed nap, revives dim colors, and powerfully cleans by air suction. The Hoover does all this in one rapid, dustless operation, guaranteed to pro- long rug life and to clean thoroughly. Its air-cleaning attachments also per- mit of easy, dustless “‘dusting.”” Live amid cleanliness the year around, enjoy better health and preserve your rugs from wear. This week, have a free demonstration on your rugs at home. Write for names of Authorized Dealers licensed to sell and service Hoovers backed by the Hoover Guarantee Bond. Convenient terms gladly extended. Tue Hoover Suction Sweeper Company The oldest and largest makers of electric cleaners Factories at North Canton, Ohio, and Hamilton, Canada ‘The HOOVER It Beats —as it Sweeps —as it Cleans ja PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INC. WASHINGTON. D.C.

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F you are a booklover,—if you like to have good books around you, you unquestionably know what good books should sell for. Here, then, is the new de luxe edition of the Little Leather Library—the value of which we ask you to estimate. You will find in this set the finest works of such immortal authors as Shakespeare, Kipling, Steven- son, Emerson, Coleridge, Poe, Doyle, Edward Everett Hale, 132 os Thoreau, Tennyson, Browning —and others. Each one of these inspiring books is com- plete; they are NOT extracts. In making your estimate of their value, be guided by these facts. There are almost 3000 pages in the set. The binding is a beautiful replica of hand-tooled leather, tinted in an antique copperand green. The paper is the same as that used in books usually selling for $1.50 to $2.00 per volume. The type is clear « N to read. These volumes are po they can be carried conveniently in a pocket wherever you go, for spare- time reading while traveling. LITTL LEATHER LIBRA RY Now York, N.Y. Please send me the set \ 30 volumes of the De Lo How much would you guess these 30 great books are worth? 884 booklovers were asked to estimate the value of this de luxe edition of the Little Leather Library. The guesses ranged from $5 to $100; the average was $18. Not a single person estimated correctly. What would be your guess? A sample of these books was sent to 884 booklovers, people who owned libraries. We asked them to guess what this set of 30 books was worth. Here are their estimates (shown in the panel), AFTER EXAMINING A SAMPLE. The signed estimates are on file in our office for inspection. Please make your guess now —write it, if you will, on the Burns, Omar Khayyam, Mac- What 884 Book-lovers margin of this page. Our price aulay, Lincoln, Washington, is quoted in the coupon. Then Oscar Wilde, Gilbert, Long- Guessed compare your estimate with our fellow, Drummond, Conan } 140 estimated from $4.50 to $9.50 | price. iLo0 to 15.00 | How it can be done 16.00 to 20.00 Please note carefully that the 21.00 to 25.00 price shown in the coupon is 30.00 ALL YOU PAY FOR THE 45.00 to 60.00 ENTIRE THIRTY VOL- 90.00 to 100.00 UMES. There is no “extra” of any kind. This publication would notallowus toadvertise hereun- less every statement we make is true. And there is no secret as to how this extraordinary offer can be made. These books are printed in editions of over one million ata time. That is the whole secret—“ quantity pro- duction.” Over seven million Little Leather Library volumes, of previous editions, have already been sold. And this new De Luxe edition is far more beautiful than any we have ever before published ~» SEND NO MONEY dition of the Little Leather It is impossible in the printed page to do justice to the beauty and character Library bound in limp Croft Leather antique finish, which you cuarantee to look and wear likegenu- of these books. You must SEE them—so we ask you to let us send you a set for examination. You need not send any money now. s e = inetooledleather. Ht isundersteod that imply mail the coupon or write a postal card or letter. When the price of the: $2.98 plus postage, which 1 willp man when the setarrives. But if T amnotsatis- fied, after examining them, I willmailthe books back at your expense within 30 days, and you are 0 yolumes is ONLY the books arrive pay the postman, then examine the set. Ask he post- some of your friends to guess what these books are worth. Decide in your own mind, their value. If you have the htest doubt of your bargain, return them any time torefund my money at once, It is understood there within go days and your money will be refunded at once is no further payment or obligation of any kind. City. . without question or quibble. NCE Renate eRe Peary ee © ; : ON LITTLE LEATHER LIBRARY CORP’N Dept. 121 354 Fourth Avenue New York, N. Y. Tilusivation here is slightly reduced From actual s: