Hobbies Weekly No. 18
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PRESENTATION FRETWORK DESIGN WITH THIS NUMBER. teh For Amateurs of Both Sexes. “No.18. VOL.|. __—~FEBRUARY 15, 1896. ONE. PENNY. No. 18. Wood Carving for Amateuty. Lantern Slide Painting. Playgrounds of Hlectrical Scienée. Staring for Fretwork. Photographic Notes & Hints. Prize Competitions. Bees ag a Profitable Hobby. Cyéling and Athleticéy. — F ae | - ae = peas ll Weekly Presentation Design. FRETWORK HANGING BOOKSHELVES. “HOBBIES” DESIGN, Stamp Collecting. x Correspondenée, Hté.
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HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC BELL SEP. CHAP al; DJUSTING the Bell is performed as follows :— First of all connect your battery (when you have made it) to the termi- nals of the Bell so that the current can flow through the circuit; then screw up the con- tact screw until the Bell rings, or if it does not ring screw it the reverse way. Probably the hammer shaft may require bending, but a little experimenting will soon put the reader on the right track. Probably the reader would like to know why an Electric Bell rings. Let us follow the current throughout the system. When the push is pressed the circuit is completed. The current then travels through the wire to the contact screw, through the armature spring, and through the magnet coils to the return wire. When an electric current flows through the magnet coils, the core becomes highly magne- tised and draws the armature towards the oles. At the moment the armature is attracted the current is broken through the contact spring leaving the point of the contact sorew. The current ceases to flow and the armature returns by the force exerted by the armature spring, and contact is again made. This action takes place with great rapidity as longias current is supplied. Platinum points are used for the make and break arrangement, because there is a great deal of sparking and consequent corrosion between the contact points, and platinum is about the only metal that can stand this. When making connections always cut away the silk or other insulating substance so that metal can touch metal. When fitting a cover for the Bell mechanism only fit it on by hooks and eyes so that it can be easily removed when an examination of the apparatus is required. THE BATTERY. The best battery for Bell work is the “Leclanché.” The cell is made in several forms; the cheapest and easiest to make is shewn in Fig.6. There are usually three sizes of cells sold at electrical stores, and these give various quantities of current according to size. A table is shown below giving particulars of size, resistance, etc. No. Size. E.M.F. Int. Res. 1 3 pints 15 87 2 1 quart 15 1:25 3 1 pint 15 85 The reader may use any of these sizes, but for ordinary Bells No. 2 will prove the best. For the benefit of those who are interested in chemical science we will describe the chemical action that takes place during the working of , iy y 4 4 ; 4 y 4 e | 4 HE 4 4 4 Y U 4 4 U 4 4 4 U 5 4 rT 4 ‘Watatcocurowaroraad, Fia. 6, the cell; but the non-chemical reader need not trouble himself about it, as we fear the know- ledge will not help him to make the battery any better. The chemical action is as follows: The zinc, sal-ammoniac, and per-oxide of manganese are changed into zinc chloride, water, and ammonia; and the oxide of % manganese is reduced to an oxide less rich in
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HOBBIES. A4II oxygen. Chemical signs Zn, 2NH, Cl, and 2MnO , become ZnCl,,H,O0+2NH;, and Mn,0O,;. Should a good strong current of short duration at long intervals be required, this cell will answer the purpose well; but for a continuous current it is useless, as it polarises very quickly, although on the other hand it | quickly recovers itself. It also has the advan- tage that no action takes place unless the cell is doing work, and it can stand charged for months without deterioration. This advantage makes it of the greatest use for Bell work. The cell does not give off any objectionable smell, and can therefore be placed anywhere without giving offence even to the moat sensitive nose. The following are the principal articles required :— A glass cell; this is usually of a square form, | furnished with a lip to hold the zinc element. A porous pot; this is an unglazed earthen- ware jar as tall as the outer glass jar, and rather smaller than the mouth. A carbon plate, 14 inches longer than the porous pot, and 4 inch leas than the internal | diameter. This plate should be furnished with a brass terminal. A rod of zine about 8 inch thick and 1 inch longer than the glass cell. A small quantity of coke and per-oxide of manganese. This should be carefully broken up into pieces about the size of grains of rice, and sifted from all dust, otherwise this dust would clog the pores of the porous cell and soon stop all action of the battery. We can now proceed with the construction of our battery. First take the porous pot and stand the carbon plate upright in it, terminal as tightly as possible to within 4 inch of the top. Two small pieces of glass tube should be embedded so that the tops are level with top of the cell; this is to allow the gas formed in the working of the cell to escape. The top of the cell should be filled up with melted pitch. The projecting end of the carbon and the top of the cell should also have a coat of melted pitch. Work it well into the surface and down the sides to the extent of 1 inch; do not touch the terminal with the pitch. Also dip the bottom of the cell into melted paraffin wax to the depth of 4 inch. The mouth of the glass cell should also be dipped into the melted paraffin wax to the extent of 1 inch. The reason why the tops of the cells are coated with paraffin wax (Brunswick black or melted pitch does quite as well) is because the salts used in the excitant have a peculiar tendency to creep up the sides of the cell and crystallize thereon; by coating the tops with any of the above materials this creeping is greatly checked. The porous cell may now be placed in the interior of the glass cell. The zinc rod will now require amalgamating. To do this procure two glass test tubes (as used by chemists) long enough to contain the zinc rod. Take one and half fill it with water, and add a teaspoonful of sulphuric acid; then take end | upwards, then pack round the sides with equal | parts of the broken coke and manganese mixed, | | the other tube anda quarter fill it with the same mixture and puta. little mercury at the bottom. First dip the zine rod into the tube containing the acidulated water to clean it, and then dip it in the other tube. By holding the tube in various positions the mercury may _ be persuaded to deposit itself on the zinc rod. Wipe off the superfluous mercury, solder a piece of No. 20 gutta percha ccevered wire to the top, and stand it in the lip of the glass cell. Now make a strong solution of sal-ammoniac and water, say about as much of the first as the water will take up, and three parts fill the space between the cells with the liquid. Our battery is now complete, and may be laid aside to get into working condition, which will | be in about four hours. Meanwhile, the next proceeding is to make the push, but for this, and for the ‘connecting up,” another chapter must be reserved. (To be continued.) Platinum Printing | on Silk or other Fabrics. This is quite a possible “hobby.” Good | platinum prints from photographic negatives may be made upon silk handkerchiefs, satin, or | sateen. The following is the formula for SENSITISING SOLUTION. Solar Iron Solution, A. 28:0 parts per 100 21:5 50°5 | Ferric Oxalate | Chlorine Water Water ” ” ” ” Solar Iron Solution, B. Mercuric Chloride (cryst.) 0°6 parts per 100 Water .. 23 oo Oe: OS ” In use take one part of each and mix before applying to the fabric, then pour the solution into a saucer, and nearly saturate a small piece of sponge with the solution, pass it gently over the part to be sensitised, and dry slowly. When dry it can be printed. It is advisable that this should be done in sunlight and at direct angles. Developer: Dissolve 30 grains of platinum salts in one ounce of water, and keep it as stock. To develop, take of the stock developing solutions, ordinarily used for platinotype, 100 minims, and of the stock platinum solution, 30 minims. The developer may be applied to the exposed or printed fabric with a small sponge or soft brush. The image will appear in a few seconds, and de- velopment may be continued until the print is of the required strength. This process permits of local development, as it is thoroughly under control. After development is complete nothing ToBacconists COMMENCING: Illd. Guide & Catalogue (259 pga.) remains but to wash the fabric in acid and sub- 8d., “‘How to open a Cigar Store, £20 to £2,000.”—Tobacconists’ Ont- ject it to the same process in plain water. fitting Co. (Reg.), 186, Euston Rd. N.B. — 8 and hopfitters reputation). mndon. showcase makers for all trades. (Over 50 years Mgr., H. Myers.
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HOBBIES. HO — CRAPHY Xmaleure NOTES OF THE WEEK. HE season for commencing Photography is now approaching, and many readers of Hobbies will be thinking about buying apparatus and getting in a | stock of plates, chemicals, printing paper, etc. Weshall be pleased to give advice upon all these points, and shall gladly answer any questions upon Photography and photo- graphic procedure. It is not necessary to have expensive apparatus or material which is costly and can be done without, but by all means have the best your money will buy. We shall gladly tell our readers all about their needs, and in connection with the editorial department of Hobbies we hope to be able to devote one afternoon a week to callers, in order that to those who may be able to come and see us we can give personal advice and assistance, and so encourage them to practice Photography and kindred Hobbies. This arrangement will, we hope, be possible at an early date; in the meantime all questions will be answered promptly. The excitement in photographic circles is the wonderful discovery of Professor Réntgen. The subject has already been referred to in Hobbies. Quite recently Mr. A. A. C. Swinton, at the Camera Club, and Mr. Gifford, before the members of the Royal Photographic Society, have shown how the wonderful Photographs are obtained. In Mr. Swinton’sfirst experiments an ordinary gelatino-bromide plate, enclosed in an ordinary dark slide, was, says the Optician, used. The shutter of the dark slide was kept closed, and upon it were placed miscellaneous articles, such as coins, pieces of wood, carbon, ebonite, vulcanised fibre, aluminum, etc. Above was supported a Crooke’s tube, which was excited for some minutes. On development, shadows of all the articles placed on the slide were clearly visible, some being more opaque than others. Further experiments were tried with thin plates of aluminium, or of black vulcanised fibre, interposed between the objects to be photographed and the sensitive surface, this thin plate being used in place of the wood of the camera back. In this manner sharper shadow pictures were obtained. While most thick metal sheets appear to be entirely opaque to the radiations, aluminium appears to be relatively transparent. Ebonite, vulcanised fibre, carbon, wood, cardboard, leather, and slate are all very transparent, while on \e the other hand glass is exceedingly opaque. Thin metal foils are moderately opaque, but not | altogether so, The writer of the article continues :—So far as these experiments go, it appears that, at any rate, without very long exposures, a sufficiently active excitation of the Crooke’s tube is not obtained by direct connection to an ordinary Rhumkorff induction coil, even of large size. So-called high frequency currents, however, appear to give good results, and all Mr. Swinton’s experiments haye been made with the tube excited by a current obtained from the secondary circuit of a Telsa oil coil, through the primary of which were continuously discharged twelve half- gallon Leydon jars charged by an alternating current of about 20,000 volts pressure, pro- duced by a transformer with a spark-gap across its high pressure terminals. The article we have been referring to is illus- trated with two reproductions of Photographs taken by the system above named. One is a Photograph of a living human hand, in which the bones and all the joints are distinctly visible, and the flesh shown as an outline around them; the bones in the back of the hand are seen through the flesh. We understand that for this ‘« shadowgrain ”’ or ‘“‘ eathograin’’—as they have been named—an exposure of 20 minutes through an aluminium sheet 0075 in thickness, the Crooke’s tube, which was one of the kind, the Optician says, made in Germany, containing some white phosphorescent material, probably sulphide of barium, being held vertically upside down, with the lowest point two inches above the centre of the hand. The other illustration is a reproduction of the Photograph of a horn- handled razor, which was exposed while in its opaque case, and covered with a sheet of vulcanised fibre. The whole subject is one which is simply astounding. Already the system has been proved of practical value by the medical pro- fession. It will be possible, we understand, to examine the inside of the body, and so assist in giving relief by methods which have only been dreamt of in our philosophy. The Photographs referred to may be purchased of Messrs. Newton and Co., Fleet Street, as lantern slides, at a very moderate cost.
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HOBBIES. 413 These “ shadowgrains ” are obtained, says Mr. | Hugo Miller, without lens or camera. They are shadows fixed by chemical means, shadows which are invisible to the eye because cast by radiations which do not effect our organs of vision. Sensitive films 200 feet in length are now being made and used by Mr. Birt Acres, in con- nection with his recently patented Kinetoscope. He is able to project on the screen scenes by the seashore, with the sea in motion, the waves never still and breaking on the pebble beach most realistically. At Bradford, Mr. Percy Lund, a gentleman well known in photographic circles, has been lecturing upon the utility of Photography. He said, in the course of his remarks, that to the artist it proved of immense value; to the geologist it truthfully portrayed the different strata; to the astronomer it was a means of truthfully rendering the exact position of the stars and other heavenly bodies ; to the business man it had, he said, become a necessity. Practically, no profession or trade could do with- out Photography; it was the willing handmaid of all. It is possible to make a useful outline Lantern Slide by tracing a design with a piece of carbon paper on to the glass. Varnish the glass with Canada balsam, let it dry, then place over it the carbon paper, put the design on and trace over the lines with a stylus or pencil. These lines can afterwards be strengthened if desired. The mask and cover glass will keep the Slide in good condition. If preferred, fine ground glass may be used in place of varnished glass. This will be found an excellent method of preparing Slides from book illustrations for science lectures, etc. We have more than once dwelt upon the difficulty of introducing figures in landscapes ; here are some considerations which, says the “Amateur Photographer,’ show the great im- portance of the subject:—(1) Figures when properly introduced may be made to yield the suggestion of life or of movement. In the one case we have an appeal to human sympathies, in the second to human experience and intelligence. (2) By their costume, etc., they may help to fix the time, locality, or point to some special feature of interest. (3) By their action, position, etc., they may help to convey the sentiment of the scene, tell the story, explain the position. (4) They materially assist by giving scale, and so help in forming the conceptions of space, distance, and atmosphere. (5) They may be made of great use to balance a line or mass, or to accentuate or hide a point to connect different parts. . Not long since a correspondent wrote us upon film holders. Mr. G. P. Spooner, of Islington, has just put a new one upon the market. It is of the usual form, but the spring clamp is made with two spring handles and stretchers. The handles are pivotted one at each end of the frame. They are so fitted that by slightly com- pressing them between finger and thumb, the sides of the clamp are brought nearer together in order to attach or release it, the clamp, from the folded sides of the tray. N.B.—If any Photographic Apparatus pur- chased from us does not give entire satisfaction, and is returned in good condition as received within three days, we wi'l refund the purchase money. PHOTOGRAPHY FOR BEGINNERS. The Improved ECLIPSE CAMERA SET. Price 38. 6d. Consists of a full 4-Plate Sliding-Bellows Camera (taking Pictures up to 4} by 33 inches), made of solid Mahogany, polished, fitted with a good Double-convex, Brass mounted Lens, improved Dark Slide, Light-proof Focussing Screen, improved Focussing Arrangement, packet of Dry Plates, Developing and Fixing Solutions, and full instructions, enabling any amateur to take a good Photograph. Price 3s. 6d.; or securely packed by parcels post, 4s. COMPLETE PHOTOGRAPHIC OUTFIT. 6d. Price 78. Comprising Eclipse Camera Set, as above; also Photo- graphic Printing Apparatus, with Hardwood Folding Tripod and Focuss- ing Cloth. Price 7s. 6d.; post free, 8s. 6d. Ifin Wood Case, with Hinged Lid and Strap, as Illustrated, Is. extra, post free. The YOUTH’S GUINEA COMPLETE yh /- OUTFIT. For Plates 44 by 3} in. Containing our famous “ Half-Guinea Camera Set,” with complete Printing Apparatus, Ruby Lantern, Focussing Cloth, in well-made Box with Hinged or Sliding Lid and Leather Strap for convenience in carrying; also Folding Hard- wood Tripod, and Full Instructions. Price 21s. Ditto, for plates 64 by 43, price 42s. For full particulars of our more expensive Cameras, ranging in price from one to twelve guineas, see our new and fully illustrated catalogue of Photographic Apparatus. Price 2d., post free. J. H. SKINNER & Co., H Dept., DEREHAM, Norfolk. ¥
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HOBBIES. FOR 4 <S “AMATEURS CHAP. X—FRET CARVING. S a great number of Carved Fretwork Patterns can now be purchased in sheet sary to elaborate this chapter with trations. Figs. 28 and 29 will be sufficient for the pur- pose, as they indicate the called a Fret,” the second, ‘‘ Fretted Carving.” Both, however, must be classed under the same head. | FIGURE 28, Fig. 28 does not represent an existing piece of work, but is given merely form, it is not neces- | numerous illus- | two distinct methods; | first may be | “* Carved | split when the Carving was begun. Walnut could be tried with safety. The thickness depends greatly on the size of the article which is being made, and on the use for which it is required. From one-quarter to three-eighths inch may be suggested. All the Carving Tools must be as sharp as possible, so that the work may be done without having to apply too much pressure. It must be remembered that while a solid piece of wood will stand some knocking about, a fret-cut article runs a strong chance of being broken if it is violently handled. With this pattern the Carving work must be done methodically, or the outcome will be a failure. The various leaves should first be out- lined, and the wood on which they lie gently | cut away, in order to place them in relief. This | done, the strap-work should be pared down at the parts where another piece crosses over. No finishing should be asan example. It might be used as an up- right panel, or as the front of some drawer or box. In general attempted till all is roughly putintoshape, and any leaf modelling must be left till the end. In the strap- character it is similar to Fig. 27 (as shewn in the previous chapter), but the outline, instead of being carved with a Chisel ana Gouge, is cut out with a fretsaw. The design must be carefully traced on the wood with black carbon paper, the circles being described with compasses, and the straight lines ruled. Great attention must also be paid to the over- lapping, to see that the strap pattern goes over and underneath alternately. When the fretsaw is brought into play, it should do its work accurately. If the design were purely foliage, it might be better to keep rather outside the line, so as to allow the Carving Tools ample room to work on; but with this pattern £0 little of the outline is afterwards touched that it will be found easier to keep the exact line at the outset. Too soft wood should not be used for this class of work, as it might Fie. work, as there is a good deal ofintersection, the overlap dips should not be more than one- sixteenth of an inch—if anything, they should be less. A stronger relief would make the curface very uneven, and would give much difficulty in the task of smoothing down. The dips should be reached by a gradual cut; there must be no abrupt angles at each side, but the intersection bands should give the impression of being slightly bent, as they naturally would be in a case of actual overlapping. The point to guard against is in making the strap-work appear as if it were warped; but, at the same time, the possibilities of erriag in the opposite extreme must not be overlooked. The leaves must be rounded only to the extent of making them look like what they are meant to be, and no more. The style of ornament does not permit of their being highly carved. In tooling 28.
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HOBBIES. 415 them, the object to be held in view is to make them clothe the strap bands from which they | spring. They must not look as if merely stuck | on, but must have the appearance of growing out from the main ornament, and quietly | curling round it. Fretworkers, who know how to carve, can improve many of their articles by a judicious use of the Gouge here and there. The flatness of intersecting lines might be taken away, as shewn in Fig. 28, obscure parts could be made | clear, stems could be trimmed, and leaves veined and gently undulated. It must be understood, however, that—to use the familiar expression—the line must be drawn somewhere. There is no use in going too far, and in making the fret a regular piece of Carving. If the article is intended as fretwork, that intention should be preserved. The deadness of the surface may be removed, there can be touching up, hollowing, incising, trimming, dressing, but no modelling. FIGURE 29. With Fig. 28 the general idea of the design was that of a Fret, improved by Carving ; the idea of Fig. 29 is that of a piece of Carving, the form of which is secured by fretwork. The leading method in the previous case was | | fretting; here it is carving. Half-inch wood will be required, as there are two surfaces to be considered—the foliage and the cross; and thinner material would cause the cross to be cut down to a mere wafer. The fretwork should first be performed. Some Carvers would prefer to tackle the foliage beforehand, as when the outline is sawn, there is a difficulty in securing the work to the Bench. This objection | can be met by leaving a piece of surplus wood at the end of each arm, and sawing it off afterwards, If the fretsaw is not kept precisely to the line, it should wander rather to the out- side than to the inside. Indeed, to prevent the stems from appearing too delicate, it is | recommended to make the allowance of exactly one hair-breadth; the amateur’s eye will no doubt enable him to judge of this distance to a nicety. When the carving is commenced, the first work is to cut down all over till the level of the cross is reached. The cross is flat, but has a sunk punched channel. This channel not only adds to the effect of the cross itself, but also | helps to throw the leaves into bolder relief. | The treatment and modelling of the foliage | need not be discussed here in detail, as the illus- tration is too small to indicate the proper form. Care should be taken to give leaves and stems & feeling as of clinging to the background. The middle course to steer is to preserve against the appearance of applied overlay, and at the same time to remove any suggestion that the cruciform ground and the foliage are one, and that the latter grows out of the former. It would be found necessary to trim the back | slightly, as the stems will originally be the whole thickness of the cross. A great many patterns of this class of work are procurable, and any amateur who has a knowledge of fretwork (as he should have) will experience ne difficulty in Carving beyond that | which has to be met with in ordinary work. (To be continued.) { hi ty DF Babbies’ Designs. Os $= —_—_—_ WING .to the very heavy expense involved in the production of the Designs forming our Weekly Presenta- tion Supplements,we cannot supply these with back numbers of Hobbies. Copies of them may, however, be obtained on sending threepence for each Design required to the Publisher of Hobbies, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C. For the convenience of our readers we give below a complete list of the Designs already | published. 1. Midget Photo Frame, Ornament. ‘“‘ Aphrodite” Mirror Bracket. Bent Iron Work Gong Stand. Hanging Twine Box, with Overlay Ornament. “Card” Inkstand. Carved Adams Frame. “ Gasalier’” Bracket. Bent Iron Work Table Stand, for Cards, eto. . Carved Lamp Bracket. . Model of a Victoria. “Toilet Glass” Cabinet Photo Frame. “ Swing-Boat’’ Match Holder. Hanging Fretwork Calendar. Bent Iron Work Grill Panel. Carved Blotting Book Cover. Prize Card Receiver. Panel with Overlaid Ornaments. . Bookshelves. with Overlay 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ais 12, 13 14 15 16 17 18 The following Designs are in preparation — 19. Two Stencil Dado Bands. | 20. Fretwork Gong Stand.
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416 HOBBIES. COLOURING LANTERN SLIDES—Continued. LREADY we have mentioned the | advantage of toning Slides. By | far the most popular tint is a | Warm Brown. With such | Slides or, more correctly, trans- parencies, it is not desirable that the whole surface should be coloured. Some judgment is needed to suit the tint or tone to the subject. The harsh black and white con- trasts of some fifteen years ago are, happily, rarely met with, The tone of the Slide will regulate the after colours to be used, just as the first wash in watercolour is applied in order to accord with the scene depicted. It is well to keep down the tone in order that when the colour is applied it shall increase the density of the Slide as little as possible. The Slide, during the process of colouring, may be examined by the aid of the Lantern. This can be done by placing a cardboard mask on the Slide, taking care, of course, not to touch the colouring, and then placing upon that a perfectly | clean cover-glass. For temporarily binding | these, either four India rubber bands may be | used, or the metal binders which are sold by | most photographic dealers. The greatest care must be taken to keep the Slide free from dust. Microscopic dust on a Lantern Slide will have the appearance of grains of sand when the picture is projected on to the screen. Hairs from the brushes, however small, if left in the paint and transferred to the Slide will form a serious blurr. The removal of these is a difficult matter. A darning needlemay be used, but even then the painted surface will have the appearance of being etched, and the attempt to fill in the scratches will, in all pro- bability, be a signal failure, so that every precaution possible must be taken to prevent these annoying trifles to exist. If possible, the painting should be done in a room as bare of furniture as possible, with no carpet, and before starting to work every possible place or thing upon which dust has been deposited must be carefully wiped with a damp cloth, not a “ fluffy rag.” The worker should have a long linen apron, or, better still, a blue jean blouse such as are worn by workmen in Paris. These are all very necessary precautions, and, as attention to | trifles often is a forerunner to success,‘fwe heartily commend this to our readers. The table, which may well be a small deal kitchen one, should be placed near the window, facing north if it be possible, and may be covered with American cloth, newspaper, or other material that is not “ fluffy’ or likely to make dust. Upon this, in the centre, the easel, as already described, should be set up. On the left hand the colours may be arranged, and on the right the palette with brushes, and tissue paper to wipe them in. A small cup or tin of turpen- tine will be needed for cleaning the brushes. The transparency, we will assume, has been placed upon the easel, which is arranged at the proper angle with the top light screened off. We will commence operations with the sky, the picture being a landscape view. We have already advised for the sky Prussian Blue, and proceed to squeeze out of the tube a quantity that would be of about the same size as a small pea or grain of rice. A little McGilp and turpentine will be required to mix the paint upon the palette. Having decided as to the depth of the tint, proceed to colour in the sky boldly, putting on the paint evenly, working the brush always one way—from side to side. It will not be possible to avoid some markings and ridges ; these must be removed by a subsequent process. Let the picture rest for a few minutes in order that any excess of turpentine may evaporate. We have left the sky, practically, all one tint, and must proceed with what is known as ‘“‘dabbing.”’ The dabber may be made of washleather, very soft, packed with cotton wool, and tied together to form a pad. This form is open to objection, because very fine hairs are likely to separate from the leather and cause markings upon the paint. Mr. Hepworth says the best dabber which it is possible to get is the finger. This, he says, needs a certain amount of preparation. The flesh of the finger is covered with a number of little ridges, which make what are called finger marks. These ridges can be obliterated by rubbing the finger with pumice- stone and water, or by using pumice-stone soap. A quicker plan is to rub the finger afew times on a very fine glass paper, and the ridges will quickly disappear.
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hand corner, and with the finger we dab rapidly from side to side. The marks are rather alarm- ing at first, but gradually the turpentine will evaporate and the marks tone into one another, making a perfect tint. This work will require patience and practice, but we are told that genius is only “ the gift of perseverance,” so that success is within the reach of all. Having now obtained a blue tint for our sky, and wishing to indicate clouds, we meet with much difficulty. The printing in of clouds ona Lantern Slide is not an easy matter, and although most of the clouds in coloured Lantern Slides are of the “cotton wool’ order, we hope our readers will try and do something better. To do this, the form of clouds must be studied. It would be well to make rough sketches of such types of clouds as :—cirrus, cumulus, storm scud, stratus, nimbus, &c. Having formed some idea of these, it is well to be sure that they are in accord with the lighting of the landscape, &c. This subject will be specially dealt with in Hobbies later on in the articles on ‘“ Photo- graphy.” To introduce cloud forms into the sky, take a piece of clean kid, partofa glove, and bind it several times on to a piece of pointed cane, or a pencil will answer the same purpose, with the rough or inner side of the glove for the rubbing surface. With this rub the tint so as to form the outline of the cloud desired. This will have to be done with great care, but with boldness, in order to give vigour to the cloud form. Having the blue tint it will be well to fill in | such other parts of the landscape with itas may be desirable: water in the foreground and distant hills should be filled in with the blue tint. For the latter the tint may be darkened to a purple with crimson lake—shadows may also be washed in with this darker tint. The dabbing process is again resorted to, and any excess of tint upon parts not intended to be coloured may be wiped | out with leather or the kid stump. We have dealt with the most important part of the colouring, i.e., the mass of tint. Whatever colour this may be, the same treatment may be | adopted. The different parts of the composition | must, of course, be coloured in accordance with 417 the scene, figures or objects depicted. Contrast is the great thing to aim at, provided such con- trasts are not extreme or harsh; here is the generally accepted rule governing contrast of colours used by painters. The three primary colours are red, blue, and yellow; any two of these mixed together form a secondary colour, which is complementary to the remaining primary colours, i.e. blue and yellow form green, which is complementary to red. Yellow and red form orange, which is complementary to blue. Red and blue form purple, which is comple- mentary to yellow. These are simple rules which should be laid to heart when painting Lantern Slides. We will conclude this chapter with a few sug- gestions as to colours to use :—For trees and foliage, greens of course are needed. These are best prepared by mixing Prussian Blue and one or | other of the various yellows, such as Brown Pink, Italian Pink, and Raw Sienna. These may be given a variety of tints when assisted by other colours. Autumnal effects may best be obtained by adding Chinese Orange. In making up these tints Canada Balsam should be used as the medium, and the colour carefully mixed on the palette. For shipping and boats on the shore it is reeom- mended to use Vandyke Brown, Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Chinese Orange, Indigo and Black. Water, as we have said before, may be treated | much in the same manner, as the sky points of light may be pricked out with an etching needle after the paint is dry. To represent waves the surface must be worked up with deeper blue, yellow, indigo, &c. For the foreground no hard and fast line can be laid down. Thecolour must be carefully applied, and the effect may be heightened by using varnish, or a second colour may be applied. To become a successful Lantern Slide painter, a knowledge of drawing, form, light and shade, and colour, is necessary; that is, if anything above the mediocre is to be obtained. All the rules and instructions that we can possibly give will not bring about the end desired, for it is an old adage and a true one, that :— “ Artists are born, not made.” (To be continued.) and slides. MAGIC LANTERNS & SLIDES. The best and cheapest house for the purchase (hire or exchange) of lanterns Walter Tyler, 48, Waterloo Road, London. Walter Tyler’s new pattern helioscopic lantern is far superior to any other lantern at the same reasonable price. ) machinery has been made for their production, and helioscopics can now be delivered on receipt of order. Walter Tyler, 48, Waterloo Road, London, Oxygen and hydrogen of the very best quality, compressed, in thoroughly tested and annealed cylinders, at a much cheaper rate than any other firm can supply. Special low terms forlarge consumers. Walter Tyler, 94, Waterloo Road, London. Selling off a large quantit; biunials and triple lanterns. stock. 50, Waterloo Road, London. Hire department is perfect. Best quality slides lent on hire cheaper than any other house. Waterloo Road, London. Walter Tyler’s new catalogue, upwards of 500 pages, fully illustrated, now ready, post free, 12 stamps; sm: catalogue, 6 stamps; an Walter Tyler, 48, Waterloo Road, London. The demand has been so great that new of second-hand single all and inspect immense Walter Tyler, 48, er second-hand lists, post free. WALTER TYLER, 48 to 50, and 94, WATERLOO ROAD, LONDON S.E.
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418 HOBBIES. iilb5), 4, PROFITABLE < By C. N. Waite, First Class Certificated Expert of the British Bee-Keepers’ Association. CHAP. IlL—BEES. to become expert in the managementof the Apiary he must learn something of the busy insects that, while they bring pleasure to those who partake of the sweets they store, in- flict at times pain of an acute form upon the mani- pulator. It is impos- sible to keep bees, and make bee-keeping a | paying hobby, without being stung, just as it is equally impossible to find everything of a pleasant nature in other work we may be engaged in; but, by a study of the bees, their wants and requirements, and above all the dis- turbing influences to which they are subject, we shall be led to take a keener and more intense interest in the apiary, and learn to avoid much of the unpleasantness that results from an un- welcome introduction to what Josh Billings very aptly terms the ‘business end of the bee.” Learning first about the bees, we shall find that | in every colony, whether it be located in a hollow tree, skep, box or hive of the most im- proved pattern, there are to be found at certain seasons of the year three kinds of bees, the Queen, Drones and Workers, the latter two kinds in numbers varying according to the amount of control the bee-keeper exercises over their pro- duction. The Queen naturally first claims attention, for she is the mother of all the bees in the hive, and | for that reason should compel our close atten- tion. Her sole duty is to lay eggs, which she does from early in the year until the autumn, | more or less according to circumstances, and it | ™ ae I 8 ¥ | richer in nitrogen—the pollen element—there is ig upon the manner in which the bee-keeper controls the queens in egg-laying that he succeeds or fails in making bee-keeping a profitable hobby. Early in the year, when the bees are few in number compared with what the hive will contain later on, and the weather cold, few eggs are laid, and they are deposited QUEEN BEE. EFORE anyone can expect | in the centre of the middle combs in the warmest part of the hive. As the year advances and the weather becomes warmer, the number of eggs laid daily gradually increases until in the height of the season a really prolific queen will for some time be depositing between 2,000 and 3,000 eggs per day. In the early part of the year the eggs laid by the queen are deposited in the small horizontal cells of the comb, and pro- duce in twenty-one days workers or neuters. Later on, when the hive is becoming fairly populous, eggs similar to those previously laid, but unfertilized, are deposited in the larger horizontal cells generally found on the lower parts of the comb, and from these issue in twenty-five days drones or male bees. The pre- sence of drones is usually taken as a sign that swarming time is near, and it is then, if not before, that the bee-keeper must use his wits if he is to prevent the issue of swarms and keep the bees hard at work in supers. There are still other cells, differing altogether from the worker and drone cells, which are built upon each side of a mid-rib of wax and constitute the comb, but they are only found at swarming time. In shape they are much like acorns, and are built on the bottom edges of the combs where there is likely to be room for such bulky cells, or on the face of the combs, when they must hang down between them. These cells the bees build'when the presence of thousands of workers and drones and the daily increase render a division of the colony necessary; the queen then deposits in them eggs similar to those laid in the small worker cells, but inasmuch as the grub, which issues from the egg three days after it is de- posited in the cell, has room for full develop- ment, and is, at the same time fed with a food prodaced instead of u worker in twenty-one days a perfect queen in sixteen days. The work performed by the queen is of such | a nature that she is unable to perform it satis- | factorily and at the same time look after her | own requirements ; in fact, if she, like the other bees, were compelled to take and digest her food, she would be incapable of doing the immense amount of egg-laying with which she is credited.
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HOBBIES. 419 If we were to take out of a hive, very carefully, the comb on which the queen was busy deposit- ing eggs, we should see that around her were many worker bees apparently showing deference to ‘‘Her Majesty.” The object of their close attention is, however, one of great importance ; they are there ready to supply the queen, asthey | do the grubs, with food that has undergone the | necessary digestive processes in their bodies. The queen leaves the hive afew days after issuing from the cell in order that she may meet the drone; then, if successful in her wedding trip, she never again leaves the hive unless she | leaves with a swarm. Her length of life depends upon the work—egg-laying—which she per- forms. As sheis only capable of laying a limited number of fertilized eggs, the usefulness | of a queen will be determined by the nearness to exhaustion, in this respect, she comes. It has been found that, although queens may live three or four years, or even longer, they are in their prime during their first two seasons, and, there- fore, to ensure the first condition of success, | every bee-keeper should make it a rule to allow no stock to be headed by a queen after her second season. The Drones as stated above of spring appear, for then the brood nest has been ex- panded and the population much increased. as it is at present known, the drones, except for the Drone. upon them as such, he limits their production as much as possible, so that there may be a larger proportion of workers and less consumers. The length of life of a drone depends upon the indulgence of the workers, who, at the end of the season, or earlier if stress of weather causes a scarcity of food, turn them out of the hive to die; and quick work they make of it, for ina | short time hundreds of drones will be found lying dead in the front of the floorboard at the close of the day on which the workers have decided to commence the slaughter. At the most, therefore, drones only live a few months, unless by any means a stock loses its queen, then the drones are allowed to linger on and die a natural death. Workers. These little bees, which are really immature fe- males, are sometimes known as neuters, but inasmuch as they know of nothing but work, the name usually applied to them is more appropriate. Workers, in performing the duties that fall to their lot, act in various capacities : first they are nurse bees, and for the first fortnight of their existence they pre- pare food from honey and pollen and give it to the queen and the grubs. They then leave this work to the next younger lot of bees, and take to the more arduous work of gathering honey and pollen. They have also another work of a very important nature to perform; they build the combs of wax, a fatty secretion resulting from the consumption of honey or other carbonaceous WorKER. appear when the warm days | As far | one purpose for which they | exist, are to the practical | bee-keeper a useless part of | the vast crowd, and, looking | food, such as syrup. The wax oozes out from beneath the abdominal rings in thin white flakes, and so delicate is it that when the combs are completed the cell wall are only ;4, inch in thickness, This busy worker cannot long stand the strain of the heavy work falling upon it, and therefore its life is of short duration. The average length of life of a worker bee is forty- six days. Those that come into existence in the busiest part of the year have naturally the shortest term of life, while those that issue from | the cells at the end of the season, having very | little work to do, live through the winter, and issue from their winter rest strong and vigorous, as they should be, to enter upon their spring- work. (To be continued.) “ HOBBIES 7 Lantern Slide Exchange. Mr. James Boyle, jun., 283, Preston New Road, Blackburn, who has kindly undertaken the duties of Honorary Secretary of the newly- formed Hobbies Lantern Slide Exchange, informs | us that the following Sets of Slides are now at | the disposal of the members :— | Set. Title. No, of Slides. Remarks, 1 JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE 50 Coloured 2 LIFEBOAT 7 Coloured 3 MistTLETOE BouGH 10 Coloured | 4 Her BENNY 50 Plain | 5 A PEEP BEHIND THE SCENES 50 Plain 6 JAPANESE WAR 30 Coloured Dy Aa 7 EGyrt AND THE NILE 20 Coloured 8 ARcTIC REGIONS 20 Coloured 9 Comic 40 aecanical | 10 EFFrcts 24 Coloured 11 GABRIEL GRUB 24 Coloured | 12 Corron MAcHINERY 50 Plain 13 By SHA ro INDIA 6 ei calhred 14 MorxHeEr’s Last WorpDs 20 Coloured “HOBBIES’’ COUPONS EXCEPTED. JOHN GREEN, F.R.HS., SUPPLIES EVERYTHING FOR THE GARDEN. If you want anything, however small, state require- ments or send for Catalogues. All who make Gardening a Hobby should see ™ Great Catalogue, which is up to date and full of the best novelties in Seeds and Plants. Price 1/- (which may be deducted from first order over 10/-). JOHN GREEN, F.R.HS., NORFOLK NURSERIES, DEREHAM.
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420 HOBBIES. Our FZanuary Photographic Competition, | SSS Ss THE PRIZE AWARDS. — Ce FE are pleased to report an improve- | ment both in quality of work sent | io and the number of competitors. The awards are as follows :— First Prize—(Ten Suiuiinas) to R. W. Copeman, Henstridge, Blandford, for “‘ Salisbury Cathedral from the River.” Second Prize—(Five Surmuinas) to SuirLey, Cotham, Bristol, for ‘“‘ Dorothy’s Steps, Haddon Hall.” Hon. Mention—W. R. Bricurman, “ A Stormy Sunset;”’ and W. Kroau, ‘“ Glendalough, County Wicklow.” We reproduce the First Prize Photograph, and our readers can themselves form an opinion of the admirable composition and the careful study w. | sheep; the light breaking through the storm- clouds plays upon their fleecy backs, reminding us much of the excellent pictures by Col. Gale, | which for so many years have gladdened the hearts of visitors to the Royal Photographic Society’s Exhibition. From Mr. W. Keogh we have received a most charming quarter-plate Photograph of Irish Lake | Scenery, a picture which might pass for a | Norwegian scene. Mr. Keogh will, ere long, take front rank in Photographic work. In the First Class we are able to place thirteen competitors. The calls upon our space do not per- mit of any detailed criticism, but amongst the | best are:— Aldwarbe Locke” (A. S. Pye); “A | Summer Afternoon” (F. H. Firth) ; ‘‘ Rempstone Village” (W. E. Dixon); “The Avon from Clifton Down” (H. C. Tyers); ‘The Farm- | house” (C. H. Deshornes); ‘Glandwr Mills” | (H. J. May). The others are well up to first- class standard. The “curio” of the competition is a snap-shot by Mr. A. W. Allison (1st class), a | Photograph of ‘‘ Rocket Practice on Withernsea | Beach.” This is a remarkably good piece of | instantaneous work on a half-plate. An excellent | view of Portland Bill has been sent by Mr. Haines, Portland Bill, Dorset. The Photographs placed in the Second and Third Class show considerable merit. We should Firsr Prize.‘ SaAbnisBuRY CATHEDRAL FROM THE RIVER.” Mr. Copeman has made in order to secure the best point of view to give breadth to his picture, | and yet permit the venerable building to stand out upon the horizon in all its beauty. Mr. Shirley has been almost equally successful with Haddon Hall; his subject is a very popular one, and he has handled the lighting with great judgment. This subject is made much more pictorial by the introduction of figures, but it is at all times difficult, and to place a figure that shall accord with the quaintness of ‘“ Dorothy’s Steps” requires the judgment of an artist and the assistance of an accomplished model. Mr. W. R. Brightman is, if we mistake not, | the son of a well-known amateur Photographer | in Bristol’; if so, he is following closely in his father’s footsteps. The picture, “A Stormy Sunset,” has in the foreground a number of like to be able to say a few words upon them, but cannot take up more space. If, however, any of the competitors care to have their work criticised, | and they send an intimation to that effect, we will arrange that it shall be done by our Photo- graphic Editor, through the medium of the correspondence columns. THE PHOTOSCRIPT For Titling Negatives. Full particulars and Specimen Photograph named with the Photo- script free on applica- “H. LINDNER, LONDON, E.C. 170, FLEET ST.,
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HOBBIES. 421 PINTS ON Posies. PICTORIAL ADVERTISEMENTS—WHAT TO DO WITH THEM. N these days many very beautiful show cards are issued as advertisements. These may be utilised in various forms, but if objection is taken to the lettering and trade announcements, this can be obviated by stippling over the objectionable portions. Forinstance, if the subject be a head or figure in outline, the entire background may be “stippled.” All that is required is a camel- hair brush, gum, water, and such colours as yellow ochre, Vandyke brown, and Prussian blue. It is possible with these very simple assistants to convert the show card into a picture that, if not good enough for a drawing room, will at least brighten. up the walls of bedroom or staircase. TO MAKE A PRETTY TRAY. As Hobbies is a paper for both sexes we will suggest a simple means of making a useful tray, which can easily be done by members of either sex. Procure a piece of white cardboard, cut it in the form of a hexagon of such dimensions as may be desired. In the centre draw a circle, and at the points of the hexagon, a section of a circle. Paint these a dark colour with a hard enamel paint, and upon them stencil a suitable design in light colour.’ In the remainder of the space between the centre, cross-hatch with different colours. The centre may be left white, and either a stencil pattern added in colour or a suitable floral design. When finished mount the card on a piece of hard wood about a } inch thick. To make more completeand give a better finish, procure a piece of sheet brass pierced with a pattern, and affix to the edges. TO MAKE A MUSICAL TRIANGLE. This instrument may be made out of good tool steel of the thickness generally used. This should be worked at as low a heat as possible, and heated equally all over to a cherry red. When this has been done the triangle should be dropped flat-ways into cold water, so that the entire triangle will be chilled and hardened simultaneously. When cold, rub with sand- stone and gradually lower the temper of the steel till a light blue colour is obtained. The tone should then be correct. HOW TO CLEAN A BICYCLE, The President of the Lady Cyclists’ Association gives in Home Notes the following instructions upon cleaning a bicycle. She says:—I brush all the mud and dust from the tyres with a moderately hard brush, revolving the wheel slowly so as to bring each bit in turn outside of the dress guard or mud guard. After brushing I wipe it with a clean soft duster—fiannelette dusters are capital for the purpose. Care must be taken to remove the mud thrown up by the brake from the front wheel, and lodged in small crannies. The cranks must have special attention, as they are apt to tarnish or spot first. The plated limbs and the remoter parts of the gear-case can be reached by means of a long handled plate brush. ‘Selvyt” is an excellent material for rubbing up the handle bars and steering column—a dash of rouge or plate powder may be applied at rare intervals; this will keep up the brightness. Cork handles are apt to grow dirty, but may be washed with a yellow soap. When the machine is not in use, it is well to rub or smear bright parts with vaseline, which can be readily wiped off when required with a clean cloth. GRINDING SKATES. This can be done without removing the skate iron from the “clog” by rigging up an emery wheel of 12 or 14 inches diameter, and 4 inch thick on a lathe. The wheel must be set dead true, and a rest for the arms must be rigged up whilst holding the skate iron to the wheel. Over the emery wheel there must be a drip can to water the wheel, and keep the iron cool. Adopting this plan it will be quite unnecessary to remove the iron from the clog. TINTING ELECTRIC LIGHT SHADES, Dissolve bleaching powder in spirits of wine, and place the bottle in a warm place. When the shellac is dissolved, add a quantity of aniline dye until the desired tint is obtained. Before use filter the whole through fine muslin. See that the glasses or shades are perfectly clean, and warm them before applying the colour with a soft varnish brush. ETCHING ON GBASS. From an American Journal we learn that no better recipe for fluid can be found than the following :—36 grammes of fluoride of natrium, and seven grammes of sulphate of potash are dissolved in 500 cc. of water—this forms one solution; 14 g. of chloride of zine are dissolved in 500 cc. of muriatic acid— this forms a second solution, A mixture of equal parts of the two solutions is made and applied with a brush. In thirty minutes the parts touched are plainly bitten in. The letters refer to metric quantities, “‘g.” grammes and cc. cubic centimetres. COLOURED INKS. The Best Red Ink.—A very beautiful rich red ink can be prepared thus: Dissolve 20 grains of the best pure carmine in 3 fl.oz. liquor ammonie fortissimo, from the chemist. When fully liquefied, add to the pungent ink 20 grains of fine and finely powdered gum arabic. The colour of the resulting writing fluid is superb. Blue Ink.—The important and decorative blue tinctures used as ink commonly consist of a mere solution of the “soluble”? Prussian blue in distilled water, or of the common variety of Prussian blue, mixed with one-sixth its weight of oxalic acid, triturated to a smooth paste with a small quantity of soft water, and reduced to a proper consistency and colour by further additions of the aqueous diluent. To make a pint of our blue writing fluid, one ounce of the powdered pigment will be required. Voluminous writers may readily deduce the formule for larger quantities of ink.— Science Siftings.
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HOBBIES. A Philatelic Causerie by Percy C. BisHop, Joint Editor of the ‘‘Sramp Couurctors’ Fortnicutiy;” Ex-Editor of ‘‘Tas Pamarenio JounNaL" and ‘‘ Pumaterio Revizw or Reyinws;” General Secretary of the Lonpon Puiatenio Cuvs. HE strange rumour reaches me that the English ‘I. R. Official” stamps are to @ heels of the Cardiff prosecution the | dearth of specimens. be done away with. Coming on the | idea is a feasible one, for there could | be no better way of preventing the pilfering that has been going on among the Government’s employees than to abolish the stamps altogether. Not only would the ‘‘ I.R’s” go, but probably the ‘Government Parcels” as well, for there is as little need for the one as the other. Philatelists were startled some time ago by the news of abig “find” of the extremely searce St. Louis (U.S.A.) stamps. A detailed account of the discovery is now to hand. appears that the doorkeepers of the Court House at Louisville, Kentucky, were ordered to destroy a large accumulation of old papers lying in the basement of the _ building, | concerning envelopes and postcards, It | documents that had lain untouched for close | upon fifty years. While shovelling old letters into a furnace, a curious looking stamp was noticed upon one of them—a stamp bearing two large bears and the words ‘‘ St. Louis—5 cents.” | With a vague idea that some people collected such things the men preserved the stamp, and also many others that came to light among the rubbish. All told, they found 137 of these excessively rare stamps. Utterly ignorant as they were of their value, one is not surprised to hear that they sold the first half dozen or £0 for a mere song. But the palpable eagerness of the persons they sold them to gave the door- keepers an idea that these stamps were very rare ones indeed. To cut a long story short they sold the stamps in small batches. asking for a bigger price at each successive sale, until at last they reached the stupendous price of 500 dollars per stamp. It might be thought that the discovery of 137 | specimens of such exceedingly rare stamps | would have depreciated the price, but the re- verse has been the case. actually unearthed the stamps, for it has enabled Mr. C. H. McKeel, a prominent American Philatelist, to properly study and The “‘find”’ has been | a blessing to more than the two men who | classify all the varieties of type, a work which | had hitherto been impossible owing to the The 137 stamps found at Kentucky comprised 75 of the 5 cents., 46 of the 10 cents., and 16 of the 20 cents.; but when i it is added that there are 4 type varieties of | the 20 cents., 9 of the 10 cents., and 7 of the 5 cents., it will be at once seen that,no fall of | price need be anticipated. HOW TO MOUNT ENVELOPES. Numerous questions have been put to me Do I think them worth collecting? Should they be collected entire or the stamps cut out? And if collected entire how should they be kept? and so on, ad infinitum. By way of killing all these inquisitive birds with one stone I propose to show the best ways of keeping entire postcards and envelopes. First let me say that they must be collected entire or not at all. It is of no use to cut out the stamp and stick in one’s album; one might as well collect crests or trade- marks. <A blank album with stout leaves of thick card is all that is required. Having the album, how shall the cards and envelopes be neatly mounted without injury to the speci- mens? Some collectors keep their ‘“entires” in position by bands of baby ribbon, but this plan, though pretty, is too complicated and troublesome. There are several better ways. One good one is to make “pockets” out of Fic. 2.
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HOBBIES. 423 small triangles of paper, gummed on two sides, asin Fig. 1. If these are affixed to the desired page in the album, at such distances as to admit of the insertion of the card in the manner shown in Fig. 2, the result will be found eminently satisfactory. An alternative plan, and perhaps a better one, is to use gummed straps of paper (see Fig. 3) which can easily be made from the ERTS Fia. 3. lower corners of any ordinary commercial envelopes. First cut off the corner of the envelope one inch, measuring from the corner along each side; then make another cut parallel with the first, and about three-eighths of an inch distant from it, and you have your Fie. 4, strap. Two of them will be sufficient to keep any card or envelope in place. —‘0:——_ NEW ISSUES OF STAMPS. *, Items for this department will be gratefully re- celved from any Philatelic readers who happen to receive early information of new issues, or of im- pending changes in the postal arrangements of any country. Care or Goop Hopr.—A new letter card has peen issued ; value 1d., colours carmine on grey. The stamp, which shows an effigy of the Queen, is placed at the top centre of the card, Mavaririvs.—I illustrate the new issue already described, of which specimens have been kindly sent me by two Hobbies readers. The design is scarcely what one would expect from a British colony, either on the ground of appropriateness or artistic merit. QuEENSLAND.—On the better- late-than-never principle, I present the annexed illus- tration of the Queensland 5d. stamp, which was chronicled and described some weeks ago. Unvevay.—I reproduce from the Philatelic Journal of Great Britain the following list of values of the new issue received up to date. It will be seen that each stamp. in the series has its distinctive design :— 2c. blue, Building. 7c. green, Bull’s head. 10c. brown, Female (agriculture). 20c. black and green, Ship. 25 = red-brown, Minerva. Cotomp1a.—The bulk of my readers are aware that the various Provinces of the Colombian Republic are independent countries so far as postal administration is concerned. All of them, that is to say, have their own postage stamps. It is now reported that Antioquia will shortly have a complete new set, while a new 5 centavos stamp is to hand from the province of Santander. This latter is an unlovely lithograph on white wove paper, perforated 13. In the centre are the arms of Colombia; at the top “Correos” (postage); at the bottom “Repub. of Colombia,” and at the sides ‘‘ Dep. of Santander.” The colour is brown. Morocco contributes a series of stamps which collectors are advised to admire from a safe distance. The design is a mixture of geometry and hieroglyphics, with ‘‘ Servicio de Correos Marruecos” at top, and value at bottom. They are on white wove paper, perforated, and the values and colours are: 5c. mauve, 10c. scarlet, 20c. yellow, 25c. bright blue, 50c. brown, 1 peseta red brown, 2 pesetas slate, 5 pesetas bright green. Imagine a 5 pesetas stamp in Morocco where half the population cannot | write and the other half are too lazy. Until I hear something more as to the origin of these stamps (which may be utterly bogus for all I can discover to the contrary) I must caution all collectors to give them a wide berth. Satvapor presents us with a series of gaudy official stamps, extending from 1 to 100 centavos in value. These also should be boycotted by collectors, unless they can get undoubtedly genuine used specimens. (To be continued.) 7 a W : Illustrated Price List GRATIS ON APPLICATION. Monthly List of Philatelic Novelties 6d. per ann., post free. Selections of Stamps sent on Approval. STAMP ALBUMS UP TO BATE. Send for Illustrated Prospectus & Testimonials. WHITFIELD KING & (0., Sr? tronrens, ESTABLISHED 1869. LE SV LS EL. FokRELGN SBGAMPsS- Our “New Year” Packet contains 86 different Stamps, including Set 6 Cape, 44., 1d., 2d., 4d., 6d., and 1/- Bulgaria Provisional, Travancore, French Levant, Tientsin, Finland, 2 Bolivia, Chili, Datch Indies, England Official, Venezuela, Japan, Sweden Official and Unpaid, Italy, 1 lire, Indian Envelope, 4 Egypt, including Official, U.S.(Colambian) 8 Ecuador (obsolete), Set 6 Switzerland, 1862, ete. Free 7d. Sclectionssentonapproval. Liberaldiscount. 36pp. Illus- trated Catalogue for Collectors FREE. Wholesale List for Dealers, FREE. 16 pp. Exchange Circular, 3d. FISHER, TITLEY & Co., Stamp Importers, BATH,
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HOBBIES. FRETWORK BOOKSHELVES. No. 18. HIS is not a novel Pattern, but it is one which should be found generally useful by every Fretworker. The Design, as shewn on the Supplement Sheet, may be used in three ways :— A Small Bookshelf, miniature, A Wall Etagére. A Corner Bracket. as indicated in The cutting throughout is so simple that no hints on this part of the work are required. A few suggestions may, however, be thrown out with regard to more general matters. used should not be less than one-quarter inch in thickness, and the worker need not be afraid of three-eighths inch appearing too heavy. As both ends are alike much time and trouble will be saved by cutting the two at once. The Shelves, it will be seen, are made to slide on by half-cut through joints, and as the strength of the article greatly depends on the way in which this is done, care should be taken to have the half- | slots cut the exact thickness of the wood which | is being used, so that everything may fit tightly. If this is done well neither glue nor screws need be used, as the article will held together of itself, and can readily be taken to pieces and folded up if desired. A useful Wall Etagére, or China Shelf, can be made by cutting out three sides (one to act as a The wood | | centre support), and making the Shelves twice | tail them together. the | the length shewn. By many this will be found preferable to the small-sized article, as it will be more serviceable. Sound wood must be chosen for the Shelves, and the centre gable will be fixed in the same manner as the side ones. If the article is made about four feet in length, two division gables will be necessary. In makine a Corner Bracket, the first con- sideration is the corner joint. If one side is merely allowed to butt against the other in the usual way, the back edge of one must naturally be made one-quarter inch wider. A better plan is to make both pieces slightly wider, and dove- The simplest form of dove- tailing may be employed, as the Bracket is not expected to bear much weight. Two corner shelves must be made, but as these are simply quadrants they can be drawn direct on the wood by means of a set square and a pair of compasses. A nulled edge (similar to that shewn on the Supplement) should be given, as it helps the effect. [Additional copies of this Design may be had, price 3d. each, on application to the Publisher of Hobbies, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C. The presentation Supplements will be given during the current week of publication only, and will not be supplied with back numbers of Hobbies.]} No. 19. Davo Banps. _ The above sketches are miniatures of the full- sized Patterns for Stencil Dado Bands (to be cut | with penknife or Fretsaw), which will be given away with each copy of next week’s issue of Hobbies. BENT IRON WORK. Price List, Design Sheet, and particulars of our Special Tool, ‘THE IoNIcAL,” post free, 1d. -+& BAMBOO WORK, 3- Every requisite at low prices. Sole Agents for the new Patent Screw Plug Joint, cheap and simple. Price List, with full particulars, on receipt of 1d. stamp. LEEDS. THH AMATEUR’S MARKET, 8, BRITANNIA BUILDINGS,
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HOBBIES. 425 era Funior Fretwork Competition, We have received a very large number of Hobbies” Tablets for the Fretwork Competi- | tion for readers under sixteen years of age, and up to the moment of going to press it has been imapossible for the judges to make their final award. All the examples sent in will be care- fully considered, and the result published in next week’s issue of Hobbies. Photography, The result of the January Photographic Com- | petition, with a reproduction of the First Prize Photograph, and a few general notes on the prints submitted, will be found on page 420. Every month we give a Prize of TEN SHILLINGS for the best PooroGrapH and Five SHILLINGS for the second best. Subject for this month—Groups, Portraits, or Animals. Photographs cannot be returned, and we reserve the right to reproduce any of them in Hobbies if thought desirable, Photographs for this Competition must be sent to our office not later than February 29th, marked “* Photograph,” fantern Slides. A First Prize of Ten SuHimuimes, and a Second Prize of Five SuHinures will be given | for the best Sets of Turer PxHoroGRAPHIC Lantern Sripes. Subject for February :— One Landscape, one Seascape, and one Architectural | Slide. Slides will be returned if fully stamped and addressed labels are sent. Mark ‘ Slides,” and send to our Office not later than February 29th. Bent fron tark, For the best BENT IRoN Work GRILLS, made from Presentation Design No. 14, we offer one Prize of a GuINnEA, and one Prize of HAtrF-a- GuINEA. All matters relating to the actual work, i.e., width of metal, method of fixing, etc., are left entirely to Competitors, and the awards will be given to those examples which shew the best general work. Every Competitor should write his or her name red on a label which must be attached to the Grill tself. All Grills sent in for Competition will be returned if desired, and for this purpose fully stamped and addressed labels must be enclosed. In no case can articles be returned unless sufficient stamps are sent. Articles should be marked “Grill,” and must be received at our Office not later than March 31st. Fretwark, For the best FRerwork Monet of a VicToriA, made from the Design presented with Hobbies No, Io, we offer Two Prizes :— First Prize—An “ IMPERIAL” TREADLE FRET- saw, with Superior Tilting Table for Inlay Work, Vertical Drilling Attachment, and all Modern Improvements. Second Prize—A Finely Finished Treadle Fret- saw, with Nickel-plated Tilting Table, Emery Wheel, etc. The choice of wood, method of cutting, and all matters relating to the actual work are left entirely to the Competitor. We would strongly urge, however, that all Articles should be left plain, and that no polish, varnish, stain, or paint of any kind be used. Every Competitor should write his or her name clearly on a label which must be attached to the Vic- toria itself. Articles sent in for Competition will be returned, and in every case it must be stated clearly whether they are to be sent back by post or rail. If by post, sufficient stamps must be enclosed, and these should be affixed to the addressed label. If returnable by rail, the name of the nearest Railway Station must be clearly given. As the work of unpacking and repacking these Fretwork Articles entails a great amount of labour, we must ask Competitors to adhere to our rules and suggestions as closely as possible. All Articles sent in for Competition should be marked “ Victoria,” and must be received at our office not later than March 31st. ood Carving, For the best CarvepD BLorrinc Book Covers, made from Presentation Design No. 15, we offer Two Prizes :— First Prize—OnrE GuINEA. Second Prize—Srer oF TweELVE SUPERIOR Carvinc Toots. The choice of wood and method of carving and finishing are left to Competitors. Every Competitor must write his or her name clearly on a label which should be pasted to the back of the article. Articles sent in for Competition will be returned if desired, and for this purpose fully stamped and addressed labels must be enclosed. Blotters cannot be returned unless sufficient stamps are sent. Articles should be marked “ Blotter,” and must be received at our office not later than April 30th. Hotice ta Competitors. All Articles, Sketches, etc., for Competition should be addressed to the Editor of Hobbies, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C, The name and full address of Competitor must in every case be sent. NotTE :—No correspondence can be entered into with Competitors, and all awards made will be final, NOTICE TO CONTRIBUTORS. ——— The Editor of ‘‘ Hobbies” is always ready to | receive Suggestions for Articles for insertion in the | paper. Any manuscript sent for his consideration must however be accompanied by a fully addressed’ and stamped envelope. Unsuitable contributions will be returned without avoidable delay, but it must be distinctly understood that the Editor will not hold: himself responsible for the loss of any manuscript..
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HOBBIES. Seuss ET ; SCROLL-SAWING, INLAY ano OVERLAYING +s topent <a we Ge CHAP. XVII.—GOLOURED SYAINS. Rosewood, Mahogany, Walnut, and other fancy Fretwoods may now be purchased in ex- cellent condition at about the same cost as varieties such as Chest- nut, Sycamore and Ash, it is seldom that the amateur requires to imitate these less common woods by means of Stains. It often happens, however, that one is desirous of darkening the tone of a certain coloured wood, and for this purpose the Stains manufactured by Stevens, or the well-known Dyes of Judson,—both of which may be had from a colourman, or even from a grocer—will come in useful. Stevens’ Stains are purchased in stone bottles. They should never be used in their full strength, but should be diluted with a little water. If one strong coat were applied a coarse and uneven effect might be the result, but when two or three thin coats are given, a pleasant and natural surface is obtained. It must be remembered that the Stain is not a Dye, and if the article is after- wards to be polished a fixative must first be used. To do this, take some boiled Linseed Oil, and with a soft rag rub it carefully over the stained wood. The slightest touch of Oil will be sufficient. When absorbed it may receive a rub, either with (a dry rag or brush, after which it is ready for the Polish or Varnish. Judson’s Dyes are not so generally popular for wood staining, but when fancy colours are wanted they will be found useful. As many of the tints are rather brilliant, it is advisable to tone them by a little judicious mixing, and, as with Stevens’ Stains, they should be diluted with water, and two or three thin coats given instead of one strong one. It is hardly necessary to say that, before any Dye or Stain is applied, the colour should be tried on some waste piece of wood; and if the article is of any special size or importance, a finished experiment should be made before the real work isbegun. Staining, like everything else, requires practice, and if this advice is followed the final result will te a greater success. Stains are applied with a brush, and, to prevent any swelling of the wood, as little colour as possible should be taken up with each dip. After the coat has dried a clean brush should be taken and the wood well rubbed with it. This has the effect of marking the grain strongly, as it rubs the surplus colour off the harder streaks in the wood, whereas the softer and more porous parts have already absorbed the Stain. Fretworkers who have a little knowledge ot colouring will be guided by experience in the mixing up of tints. Westrongly deprecate the use of fancy colours, and for that reason will refrain from giving a series of recipes. In Fret- work there are certainly exceptional cases where the use of Stain is advisable, perhaps neces- sary, but it is seldom expedient to introduce all the vivid rainbow colours; thus the only wn- natural tint which will here be referred to is Green. No suitable Green Stain can be purchased ; all are too bright. Stevens’ Green and Judson’s Olive-green must be toned with alittle brown. It the amateur can use water-colours, he will find that the most pleasant tints can be obtained by them. Water-colour tubes, or powdered colours may be employed, water being the sole medium. Antwerp Blue and Indian Yellow, or Prussian Blue and Yellow Lake, each with a touch of warm Brown and Raw Sienna, will give an effective green. A touch of Gamboge would brighten it, but as green-stained wood is usually of an Olive tint, it isnot advisable to aim at any- thing vivid. When the Stain is being applied it should occasionally be stirred, as the different colours have a tendency to separate. We are well aware that experienced wood- polishers have special methods and recipes by which they secure those beautiful and natural Greys and Greens go often seen in good furniture. These methods are usually trade secrets, but were we to describe them fully, it is questionable whether the amateur would be much benefited. Brilliant results can only be obtained after care- ful experiment and long practice, and with Staining and Polishing so much “faking” is required, so many ‘‘ dodges” have to be tried, and “cooking”? must so often be brought into play, that any detailed suggestions here would probably leave the reader where he was at the outset. It he should have the privilege of a personal acquaintance with some furniture polisher, and could have an opportunity of watching the man at his work, then he might pick up some valuable hints; but where every workman has his own method, and where the suggestions of one would
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HOBBIES. 427 be scouted by another, it would be idle on our part to try and explain the trade recipes. Walnut, Mahogany, and other named Stains may be used on White wood for the purpose of imitation, or they may be applied to Walnut, Mahogany, etc., to darken them. In the latter case the Stain must be comparatively weak, and fewer coats should be given. The amateur can make a simple Stain for darkening Mahogany by purchasing a penny- worth of Chromate of Potash, and boiling in about one quart of water until it is dissolved. When cool it may be applied with a soft rag, care being taken to rub evenly as the colour is very absor- bent. A cheap Walnut Stain can be made by mixing one pennyworth of Nut Galls (Powder) with a quarter-pound of American Potash, adding a | pennyworth of powdered Vandyke Brown, and pouring on about a gallon of boiling water, or so much as may be found necessary. Vandyke Brown and Pearlash boiled together make another fairly good Walnut Stain, and one which produces a rich, mellow effect if applied to Mahogany wood. It can also be used on Light Oak, or on apy wood witha somewhat similar grain, | and a tolerably good imitation of Brown Oak will be secured. Oak, however, has always a better appear- ance if fumigated with Ammonia, This is a difficult process for the amateur, as an air-tight Case is required, soif the article is of any great size, it should be given out toa furniture firm to have the staining work done. small, the following plan may be tried :—Procure a tin biscuit box, and ascertain that, so far as the sides and bottom are concerned, it is air-tight. Place a saucer of Ammonia in this, and arrange the Fretwork article above so that the fumes will get well round it. There will be no difficulty in this ; the article may be propped up with small sticks, or suspended by string. The chief con- sideration is to see that no part of the wood is covered up, but that it will all be exposed to the Ammonia. Thelid should thenbe placed on the box, and all the joints sealed up by pasting stiff brown paper over them. Ifthe amateur puts his nose close to the tin he will very soon be conscious ot any serious leakage, which can be easily stopped by a further application of paper. A hole may be cut in the lid, and a piece of glass fitted in,—care | being taken that all the edges are closed up; by this means the process may be watched, and the article removed when the Oak is fumigated to the desired shade. Wood so stained should not be French polished or varnished, but should be | waxed. The process of Waxing is simple, and may here | be described. Take some Beeswax, cut it into fine shreds, and place in a small pot or jar. Pour in a little Turpentine, and let the mixture stand for half-a-day, giving it an occasional stir. The Wax must be thoroughly melted, and then some more Turpentine added till the preparation has the consistency of thick cream. It can then be applied with a rag, and afterwards brushed up with a stiff brush. Waxing is very suitable for Oak, but on Mahogany or Walnut it will not pro- duce such a bright gloss as French Polish. The process of brushing, too, is a somewhat dangerous one, as a delicate Fretwork article is very liable to get damaged. If reasonably | ‘FERETWORK & CARVING. On the whole we do not feel inclined to en- courage the use of Stains for Fretwork at all, and we strongly advise readers to use them sparingly. Unless considerable skill is possessed, the work has invariably a painted look about it, and although this may not be objectionable on large solid work, it makes a small table ornament appear clumsy and dirty. The Fretworker must simply be guided by his own taste and judgment, as almost every piece of work has to be treated in its own special way. (To be continued). *,* As we kmow that many Fretwork amateurs are in the habit of experimenting with Stains and Dyes, we should be glad to get particularsof any successful results for the benefit of other readers. ‘Our 2/6 Beginner's Outfit |, /OUK NEW CATALOGUE Special Offer of FRENCH FRET DESIGNS. For 1/-, Post Free, we will send a parcel of 12 Splendid French Designs, beautifully printed, containing Pipe Racks, Photo Frames, Cigar Stands, Watch Stands, Hasels, Brackets, Flower Stands, &c., &c. We guarantee 6 of the above to be fully worth the money. Grand French Catalogue of Miniature Designs. Splendid Collection of several hundreds of the best Designs ever published, Post Free, 1/- STAR SAWS, 1/6; LIGHTNING SAWS, 1/3; SWISS SAWS, 10p. FOR 6 DOZEN, POST FREE. Send 1d. stamp for Tool and Wood Lists. HINDLEY & JONES, Fretwork & Tool Stores, NORFOLK MARKET HALL, SHEFFIELD. HIGHEST AWARDS AND GOLD MEDALS received for our patterns in all parts of the empire The special advantages we enjoy, coupled with the | enormous stocks we hold, places us A 1 for variety. quality, and price, three great things for purchasers to consider. Consists of 12 inch Steel Frame, 24 Saw Blades, 3 Files, 3 Designs, Awl, Cramp, Wood, and In- structions. OTHER OUTFITS: 3/6, 6/- & 12/6 each +28G+— Assorted Parcels of Fret wood, 12 feet, 4/- POST FREE. +5S+ — Books of ret Carving Patterns 1/- containing 11,000 Dus trations of Fretwork, Carving, Picture Framing, Bert Iron and Bamboo Work, Designs and Materials, 6d., post free. vox GIVEN AWAY. Kove With this New Edition of 20,000 copies, we shall present a finely finished pattern of the Crescent Wall Bracket. HARGER BROS., Settle, voris
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428 HOBBIES. x’ All communications to be answered in these columns should be marked ‘' Correspondence,” and must be addressed, ‘to he Editor of Hobbies, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, B.C. In nocase can we reply to enquiries by post. ELECTRICITY, A.°G, WRicHT.—The Induction Coil was dealt with in Nos. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 11. R. +B. CoopreR.—Electro-motor making is too lengthy a subject to deal with in this column, but we hope to publish an article on the subject shortly. W. H. Burrows.—The dry cells you describe would probably ight the lamps for short periods at long intervals, say ten minutes in twenty-four hours, Eight cells would be required, W.8.—In making the plates for the accumulator described in No. 1, the lead foil should be placed on either of the halves of the lead plates, 80 that when the plate or grid is closed the foil will be between the halves, just like ham in a sandwich. W. Symonps.—We could not even guess at the candle power of your lamp. It might be anything between five and twenty-five c.p. You cannot render a wire incan- descent unless 1t is enclosed in a chamber at a high vacuum. You could not do this in a watch chain. FRETWORK, CARVING, &o. ‘GREEN.—Read this week’s Fretworking Chapter. ¥,. WHITTAKER.—For what purpose do you require the wood? ‘Try Hints on Wood Carving, by E. Rowe, 1/. (Batsford, High Holborn, W.C.) W. D. SHricbEY.—In Hobbies No. 2 we explained to “C.B.” how to straighten warped wood. (See our reply to you under Miscellaneous.) J. C. Livinestons.—The washers for the Victoria will be best if cut out of 4 inch wood; they should not be glued to the wheels. These points, however, are trifling, and need not worry you. Rouru.—The gloss on the wood which you speak of is not a disadvantage. The paste does not cause it; many woods take on such a gloss when rubbed with fine sandpaper, always provided that the rubbing is with the grain. B. H. A. Cantron.—(1) We receive so many suggestions for Designs of all descriptions, that it is impossible to promise definitely to oblige every correspondent. How- ever,a pipe rack isa good subject, and we shall try to publish one before next Christmas. (2) The writing-desk and whatnot we have made a note of. (3) Hobbies volumes will be half-yearly. PHOTOGRAPHY AND LANTERNS. ¥rep W. WHITE.—We will consider the question of 4 Hobbies “Photographic Correspondence Club,” and also your offer. B.B.—You can certainly use the 4 wick lamp and the 4 inch condenser in an enlarging lantern, but the size of the condenser limits your enlarging from a negative meaguring more than 34 to 34 inches square. Darvg.—Such ao apparatus as you describe for film developing has been put on the market, and can be obtained of Photographic dealers in London, G'asgow, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Manchester, in fact in almost any arge town. PIGEONS. Tuos, J. Prart.—Captain Terry’s Patent Ventilator may be obtained from Comyns, 9, Arundel Street, Strand, W.C., price about 3/6. a ‘T.H.J.—If a good supply of old mortar be placed in or near the loft the trouble will cease. Feed on maple peas, dari tares, and 4 little English wheat for the next few months. METAL WORK, L.C.L.N.—To cut out heads, emblems, etc., from coins your best plan is to use the Fretsaw; Acid leaves a rough edge. W. ATLEY.—You can easily measure the length of Bent Iron Work curves by means of string, or with mathematical dividers. STAMPS. A. Winxprow.—The (Jubilee, 1890) blue envelope, with correspondence card, both unused, are worth 2/6. Jack MoRTON.—Brazil (1889), 44.; Hamburg, 7 schilling (1864), 17/6; Brit. Guiana. XLVILII. (1863), 4/6; one cent. (1860), 58.; Franco-Swiss, 5 Rappen (1854-62), 1.5; Argentina Republic, 8 centavos (1878), 8d. This last stamp is probably worth more, being surcharged. T.W.F., OMEGA, H.M.C., AND OTHERS have been asking for some way of exchanging their duplicate stamps. The only way to properly answer this question is to give a list of the principal exchange clubs, and this we shall endeavour to do next week. H.J.C. (Barnsley). — An album specially designed for English collectors has been published at prices ranging from 2s. 6d. upwards by Messrs, Hilckes and Co. Should you wish to include Colonials, the album to get is that known ar the “ British Empire,’ published by Stanley Gibbons, Limited. HEIRLOom (Bristol).—We congratulate you on possessing an English postage stamp of the value of 2s. 6d., dated 1857. But take another look, ‘‘Heirloom,” for there is & mistake somewhere. The first 2/6 English stamp was issued in 1882. If you mean 1887 the stamp is worth from 6d. to 1/-, according to condition. F.V.D. (Hull).—Your book of stamps (returned by post) is of very little value, In fact, apart from a few fair specimens of English stamps, the book contains nothing desirable. As for your projected purchase of old stamps done up in bundles, we should strongly advise you not to buy a pig in a poke. If the stamps are mostly English, 6d. a hundred should be an ample price. O. H. C. (Reading).—Your first is a Sandwich Islands, or Hawaii stamp, worth about twopence. The “ Government of India ” stamps are fiscals; let them alone. ‘“‘ Sverige” stamps come from Sweden and are mostly common, Cape Verde is not a difficult country taken, nor is Porto Rico. It is impossible to tell you what the stamps of any par- ticular country are worth, as necessarily there are rare and common stamps of nearly all countries, MISCELLANEOUS. PostMan.—The seven back numbers of Hobbies, with design supplements, will cost you 2/6. FRANK BAKER.—The question of giving certificates will have consideration. T. W. ReapeR.—If you succeed in doing what you wish, you will have discovered perpetual motion! We can hardly help you. W. D. SuricLey.—You could get the two pieces you require set to music for the concertina at Turner’s, 39, Oxford Street, W. J. W. PartripGE.—The value of your copy of ‘ Fox’s Book of Martyrs” will depend greatly on condition. Write Walford Bros., 320, Strand, W.C.; they are purchasers of such books.
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HOBBIES. a*, The charges for advertisements (prepaid) in this page will be sixpence for every twelve words o£ leas, name and address inclusive, and one alfpenny for every additional word. Single letters, initials and figures are each counted as a word; but undivided numbers (as 152), and prices (as 10s. 6d.) count as only one word each. In every case the name and address of the advertiser must be given for ovlosains and we cannot at present undertake to supply a private name or number and recelve replies to a vertisements at our office. All advertisements must be accompanied by remittances, otherwise they cannot be inserted. When- ever ossible, payment should be made in Postal Orders, and not stamps. Letters should be marked “ Advt.,” and must be addressed to the Publisher, Hobbies, Bouverle House, Salisbury Square, London, E.O, Nogry.—Trade Advertisements can only be inserted in this page at the rate of one shilling per line, Acme Electric Bell Set, comprising 24 in. Electric Bell, Quart Leclanche Battery, Push, 50 feet Wire, Staples, Instructions, 4/6; better value impossible.— Electric, Lord Street, Openshaw, Manchester. E. 4. Approval Sheets for beginners and medium collectors. Good variety—Phcenix Stamp Co., 31, Radnor Street, Peckham. Auto-Harp, easily learned, only 10/6. Fret Machine, 14/._ Accordion, 3 stops, 8/6. Approval. Exchange anything useful.— Sanderson, 410, High Street, Gateshead. “ Electricity,’ One Penny weekly; practical, chatty, and interesting. Should be read by everyone interested in the science. Order it from your newsagent. D. 4. Electrical Hobbies.—Write for New Enlarged List; will just suit you;-prices low; best quality.— Hlectric, Lord Street, Openshaw, Manchester. E. 4. Hlectric Bell Battery, 50 yards wire push, etc., complete. Easily fitted. Instructions with each set, post free, 6/6—H. Fowler, 202, Victoria Park Road, Hackney. Be de Films for tracing Lantern Slides, 44d. per doz. Photographer, 11, Bothwell Street, Glasgow. B. 1. Fishing Rod, ash, 12 feet, four joints, winch fittings, brass ringed, with reel, lines, hooks, etc. Cost 12/6, only twice used, price 7/.—H, Pile, Benenden, Kent. Fret Machine, arms clear 24 inch, and Lathe, price 20/.—_J. Cousin, Red Houses, Witton Gilbert, Durham. Fretworkers’ Central Depot.—All MHarger’s and Skinner’s goods supplied. This week only all Harger’s Patterns reduced 25 per cent. to 50 per cent.—Screws, 44d. gross, + to 4 inch only.—Lund, Cycle Agent, Bradford. B. 1. Fretwoods, } inch American Canary, 34d. Pr foot; Teak, Mahogany, 44d.—T. Carter, Lichfield. 4H. 7. Government Parcel and I.R. Official Stamps cheap. Price List 4d.—W. Partridge, Alvechurch. Hand Camera for Sale, 10/6, almost new, }-plate.— Apply, B. Furby, 14, The Parade, High Road, Upper Clapton, N.E. 4 High Olass Tools.—For New Illustrated Price List, send 3d. to Osborn Brothers, Tool Merchants, 38, Fratton Street, Portsmouth. M. 13. How to make an Electric Night Light that will work well for years without attention, post free, 6 stamps; also how to attach an electric alarm to elec, 6 stamps.—James, 11, Stanbury Road, eck am, §.E. oe New Book of Instuctions in gilding, graining, mixing paint, French polishing, picture-frame making, mount cutting, etc.,1,000 valuable recipes, free, 1/2.— McQuhae, Cockermouth, and all Booksellers. 1. 7. Photographs, scrap views, various, 6 by 8, extra value, 24d. each.—Photographer, 11, Bothwell Street, Glasgow. Bs 12 Roger Fretsaw. Nearly new, Tilting Table, Dust Blower, Drilling Attachment. Will sell for 9/6.— Pocock, Munster Rd., Fulham. Stamps. Old English (obsolete), Black 1d., year 1840; blue, 2d. unperforated ; ditto, perforated; also Mulready envelope. What offers per doz. for former ?—Norman Tivy, Galway. Stamps.—Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek, very scarce obsolete provisional; Bulgaria, surcharged; Sierra Leone, Puttialla, Persia, Morocco, Mauritius, Labuan, Iceland, Anjouan, Grenada, Hgyptian Service; 60 excellent genuine varieties, 1/1.— Smith, Arthur Road, Kingston, Surrey, (oh als Violin. Splendid tone and finish, in case with bow, complete. Sacrifice 17/6, a bargain.—Beeston, Lyd- brook, Glos. 80 Birds’ Eggs, 30 varieties. Exchange collection Foreign Stamps.—E. Brown, Kelvedon. 80 Different Stamps from 40 different countries. Free, 7d.—Dew, Shirley Gardens, Hanwell, W. Brent Iron Worx.—We have received from Messrs. Chapman & Hall, Limited, a small handbook on Bent Iron Work, by Aganda Sanders. The manual deals chiefly with the more elementary stages of this hobby, but the hints and suggestions, though brief, will be found generally useful. The special feature of the book lies in the numerous illustrations. These are roughly drawn, but are sufficiently suggestive to enable the amateur to make Bent Tron Work articles from them, the plan of noting the extended size of each curve and scroll in some of the diagrams being particularly helpful. The handbook is published at 1/6. Germs of Subscription Three Months (including postage) .. .. 1 8 Six Months Do. dol one cin 3] Twelve Months Do. G icemOL 16 Allletters relating to subscriptions or back numbers should be addressed to the Publisher of Hobbies, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, B.C. THRMS FOR peri erinl s 8. d. Per Inch aco eae aes 010 6 One-Highth Page... ee se) One-Quarter Page ... xe 220 Half-Page eee ne ae 315 0 Page... oe aes a e000 DiscoUNT ON A SERIES OF INSERTIONS. All Communications to be addressed to the Sole Advertisement Agents, JOHN HADDON & CO.,, Bouverie House, Salisbury Square, London, E.O.
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HOBBIES. tf L il] Wha i q Mi | ig) 3} ‘ite |e SA weacen piney Ny al SSS AN) ats ere ay | }) flue pp - paris my fi nat ee NOTES ON SPORT. KATING is a very uncertain form of sport, put enthusiasm often makes up for lack of opportunity, and itis really wonderful how smartly the various skating bodies manage to bring off their interesting competitions. The Amateur Skating Championship of Europe is a fairly proud title for any race, and it is hardly to be expected that such an event can justify the name given to it, because it is next to impossible that a competition can be really representative when even the date of the race is uncertainty itself, and the competitors have to be collected by telegraph. This year Hamburg has been selected as the venue for the great event, and the date originally fixed for its decision is already long past. At the time of writing the race has yet to take place, but it may be over and done with almost before anyone, except those directly interested, is aware of it. Every effort was made to carry out the original arrangements and decide the race at Hamburg on the date chosen, but the thermo- meter would not keep below the freezing point long enough to get the course into shape, and postpone- ment after postponement has taken place. There have been plenty of skating races on the continent dur- ing the past few weeks, although the great event (atthe time of writing) still remains in abeyance. J. Eden and W. Henie, the two famous cyclists, are as good on the ice as they are on the wheel, and both have been moving well. A skater named Naess, from Norway, has done a fine performance in covering 500 metres in 46 4-5ths seconds,—a speed-rate considerably over 20 miles an hour. 1,500 metres (not far short of a mile) have been covered at a speed also well over the three minutes a mile rate, while 10,000 metres, about six miles, have been accomplished at very little less speed. Eden, it is said, will not stop at Hamburg for the European championship, having his eye onanother event with a still more ambitious title at St. Peters- burg, where the so-called amateur championship of the world is down for decision this month. Yorkshire continues its victorious career in Rugby football, and everything points to the ultimate meet- ing of the big county ana Surrey for the decision of the Rugby County Championship. Yorkshire's latest victories have been achieved at the expense of West- moreland and Cheshire. The former county was very badly beaten, but Cheshire made an unexpectedly good fight of it, Yorkshire being rather weaker than usual and the smaller county extra strong. In spite of this, somewhat paradoxical as it may sound, strength—some even go so far as to say brute force— undoubtedly won the match, Yorkshire being heavier and stronger in the forward ranks, and the ground being wet and sloppy. Wales versus Scotland ought to be a better match than England versus either of them. The match at Cardiff the other day certainly seemed to bear this out, as, after a close, exciting encounter between two well-matched teams, Wales came off victorious by the narrow margin of two tries (six points) to nil. The Welsh forwards had been strengthened consider- ably since they were so crushed at Richmond by the heavy English team; and the representatives of the leek played a clever and scientific game, which in their English match was simply impossible owing to their overwhelming defeat in the frontrank. With the nearer approach of the English Cup con- tests, interest in Association football is doubled. The leading clubs are now being worked at the highest | pressure, for itis no small matter to look after one’s | League Position on the one hand and be winning | English Cup ties on the other. Most of the principal | teams are undergoing special courses of training. Few athletic clubs in the Kingdom have done so | well of late as the Manchester A.C. This club boasts | no less than 750 members, of whom 225 are active, paying a subscription which has just been raised from 21/- to 25/- The Mayor of Manchester is President of the clab, which is engineered by a large Committee of influential gentlemen. It is not often that a“ hare” sustains a bad accident | while trail laying, but that well-known athlete, Mr. A. | J. Fowden, who in 1895 was the President of the National Cross Country Union, has shewn that such a thing is possible. He was out foraspinafew days ago, laying paper for the South London Harriers’ “Thornton” cup race, when he slipped in descending a greasy hill and fell very heavily over some stones. The result was that his right shin was simply barked | from top tobottom. Mr. Fowden suffered a good deal | of pales and so bad was the wound that a doctor was sent for, It is evident that as the English law at present | stands the auto-car or “horseless carriage’? cannot | be legally used in public thoroughfares. In some cases the authorities are anxious to encourage the | new vehicle as much as possible. This is especially | the case in the Midland district. Birmingham and Coventry have a direct interest in the new machine, as, should the motor-driven carriages become popular in this country, the towns named will probably be the chief seats of its manufacture. At Coventry the Board of Guardians have gone so far as to pass | resolutions recommending the alteration of the exist- ing restrictive law. However favourably-disposed people may be towards the auto-car, the magistrates | and police can hardly be expected to wink perpetually | at what are, at present at anyrate, direct violations of | the laws of the land. A rider of one of these machines has recently been summoned in Glasgow and let off with the nominal fine of 2/6. This means, of course, that he must “not doit again.” There are rumours in other districts of ‘‘auto-carists” being stopped by the police and names and addresses taken, but so far no more police-court proceedings have come to light. Indoor cycle racing thrives most wonderfully. Olympia attracts valuable gates, and the races, or exhibitions of fast riding by high-class racing men, are being keenly watched by large crowds. Numbers of prominent amateur riders have joined the professional ranks in order to ride (and make money) at Olympia. The Agricultural Hall is to be next in the field, and a fortnight’s cycling in March is announced, and some of the fastest riders are en- gaged. Many people are disposed to take the racing (sic) at these purely speculative entertainments with & oe f large grain of salt, but however this may be there is no doubt about the “class” of the men who are riding. They are the best that can be obtained for love or money.
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HOBBIES. 431 Highest Award at Food and Gookery Exhibition, LONDON, MAY, 1895. AbAbhhbhhhh sos ; ‘ PROMOTE DIGESTION. SUPPLIED TO THE QUEEN AND ROYAL FAMILY. MI88 FRANCES WILLARD says:— “‘Hovis’ Is a grand Institution, | have almost lived on it since | found it out.” 6d. & 1/- SAMPLH OF BREAD & BISCUITS ON RECHIPT OF STAMPS. + ‘‘ Imitation is the Bineerest Form of Flattery,”’ a The Public are cautioned against accepting from Bakers spurious imitations of ‘‘ HOVIS,” which, having met with such unprecedented success, is being copied in many imetances as closely as can be done without risk. If any difficulty be experienced in obtaining “HOVIS,” or if what is sup- plied as ‘‘HOVIS ” is not satisfactory, please write, sending sample (the cost of which will be defrayed) to S. FITTON & SON, —-% Millers, Macclesfield, a a a ea a BEWARE! BAKERS RECOMMENDING ANY OTHER BREAD IN THE PLACE OF “HOVIS" DO 30 FOR THEIR OWN PROFIT. BEWARE!
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