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Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu (China)
Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1825/50
- Medium
- Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs
- Classification
- Textile
- Dimensions
- 151.4 × 199.7 cm (59 5/8 × 78 5/8 in.)
- Culture
- China
- Museum
- Art Institute of Chicago, Textiles
- Credit line
- Gift of the Antiquarian Society
- Rights
- Public domain (CC0), as the museum states it.
- Who can see it
- Teens profiles and older: its subject is for older viewers (war, death, the Passion, drink or the like). How works are placed
View at the Art Institute of Chicago
About this work
Some of the stylistic elements of this nineteenth-century jifu, such as the shaped overlap at the front, lower sleeves, and horse-hoof-shaped cuffs, emphasize Manchu forms and construction details. Overall, however, the eighteenth-century restyling which influenced this garment's design was linked to Chinese imperial precedent and reflected Han-Chinese tastes and aesthetics. During the re-evaluation of court attire initiated by the Qianlong emperor in 1748, this robe type, which had previously been called longpao, or "dragon robe," was renamed jifu, or "auspicious robe." This new name reflected Han-Chinese precedent, as it is a reference to a name for court garments that appeared in the Zhouli (Rituals of [the] Zhou [dynasty]). Its addition exemplifies the conscious reshaping of the Qing imperial image. Although by the 1650s the court had reserved minghuang (bright yellow) for the use of the emperor and his principal consort, ritual obligations often demanded that the royal couple wear different colors. Blue chaofu for exmaple were worn for the rites held during the winter solstice at the Alar of Heaven, located south of the Forbidden City. Semi-formal court garments like this…
Description © Art Institute of Chicago, CC BY 4.0