# Black Heroes of Surfing | Lost Hills

An episode of [Examined: The Backfire Effect](https://invisiblenetwork.ai/podcast/1549249596), 27 Jul 2023, 25 min.

Audio: https://podtrac.com/pts/redirect.mp3/pscrb.fm/rss/p/pdrl.fm/e27c90/tracking.swap.fm/track/SxlTEPDY7xDg35RXkASs/traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/31bb1c28-0fb5-4627-b8a7-ae32006cd7c1/6b598b8f-9c98-4318-a65a-b04501502b5b/audio.mp3?utm_source=Podcast&in_playlist=093755db-b947-43f4-a067-ae32006cd7cf

Textured Waves is a Black female surf collective focused on promoting diversity in the water and teaching Black youth to surf. In this bonus episode, Dana talks to two of the collective’s founding members, Chelsea Woody and Martina Duran, about joy in the ocean, localism, and an accomplished Black surfer from the era of Miki Dora. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

## Transcript

[0:15] Speaker 1: Pushkin.
[0:22] Speaker 2: I've paddled out with people who had Confederate flag. That
[0:25] Speaker 2: was their surfboard.
[0:28] Speaker 1: This is Martina Duran. As a Black woman learning to
[0:31] Speaker 1: surf in Florida, she was always hyper-aware of her identity.
[0:37] Speaker 2: I grew up in Miami and I like to say
[0:39] Speaker 2: there's like this imaginary line, like when you cross the
[0:42] Speaker 2: beach into the water where the diversity just drops and
[0:47] Speaker 2: not just in racial diversity, but gender diversity as well.
[0:52] Speaker 3: You feel like an island out there, right? Like you
[0:56] Speaker 3: feel like all eyes are on you because you do
[0:59] Speaker 3: stick out.
[1:01] Speaker 1: And this is Chelsea Woody.
[1:04] Speaker 3: I do think that I did try harder because I
[1:10] Speaker 3: wanted to, you know, I wanted to fit in. I
[1:13] Speaker 3: wanted to be good at it. I think it pushed
[1:16] Speaker 3: me to want to create a space where others felt
[1:20] Speaker 3: like they could join in because I didn't feel like
[1:22] Speaker 3: I had that. I think as African American women that
[1:29] Speaker 3: were interested in surfing, we just didn't see ourselves represented
[1:33] Speaker 3: in the lineups that we frequented. And we all had
[1:38] Speaker 3: a shared experience of wanting to change that.
[1:44] Speaker 1: Chelsea and Martina, along with Danielle Black-Lions and Gigi Lucas,
[1:48] Speaker 1: met on social media.
[1:52] Speaker 3: When you step out into the lineup, you don't typically
[1:54] Speaker 3: see folks that look like you. And when you are
[1:58] Speaker 3: looking through magazines, we don't typically see African-American women represented
[2:04] Speaker 3: or represented. Brown women represented in mainstream surfing. And when
[2:09] Speaker 3: folks think of a surfer, they don't automatically think of
[2:14] Speaker 3: a woman with, you know, textured hair and a darker complexion.
[2:19] Speaker 3: So we really wanted to change that.
[2:25] Speaker 1: In 2019, they decided to do something about the lack
[2:28] Speaker 1: of diversity in the water. They formed a collective called
[2:31] Speaker 1: Textured Waves with the goal of encouraging more women of
[2:34] Speaker 1: color to surf. They want to make women like them
[2:38] Speaker 1: visible in the roughly $ 4 billion surf industry. But in
[2:43] Speaker 1: order to do that, they have to deal with the past.
[2:47] Speaker 1: That means facing the discrimination that was so prevalent, that
[2:51] Speaker 1: was encoded in the California surf culture of the 50s
[2:55] Speaker 1: and 60s when Mickey Dora ruled Malibu. That golden age
[3:02] Speaker 1: that was only golden for a very privileged few. I'm
[3:11] Speaker 1: Dana Goodyear, and this is a Lost Hills bonus episode.
[3:15] Speaker 2: Lost Hills.
[3:42] Speaker 1: The Black Heroes of Surfing. Not long after they formed,
[3:54] Speaker 1: Textured Waves decided to make a short film. It's called
[3:58] Speaker 1: See Us Now. It's set in coastal California in the 1950s.
[4:05] Speaker 1: And it imagines a past that never was. four Black
[4:09] Speaker 1: women ride to the beach in a Ford Falcon convertible,
[4:13] Speaker 1: wax up their boards, paddle out, and surf. This is
[4:18] Speaker 1: a picture of the California dream, that mid-century myth, with
[4:22] Speaker 1: Black women squarely at the center of the narrative and
[4:26] Speaker 1: not a single surf Nazi in sight. It's meant to
[4:30] Speaker 1: be a corrective.
[4:35] Speaker 3: And the iconic, like, days of surfing, which most people
[4:39] Speaker 3: would say are in the 50s and 60s, we can't
[4:41] Speaker 3: even see ourselves in those images.
[4:44] Speaker 1: In many places, as surfing was emerging on the mainland,
[4:48] Speaker 1: it was illegal for Black people to be on the
[4:50] Speaker 1: beach with white people.
[4:53] Speaker 2: Yeah, these laws were in place from the Jim Crow era,
[4:57] Speaker 2: of course. Those laws were, their only purpose was to
[5:00] Speaker 2: segregate the African-American population from the white population. because we
[5:07] Speaker 2: were not deemed human. We were deemed like animals, right?
[5:12] Speaker 2: A lot of those laws were disbanded in 1965, but
[5:15] Speaker 2: it's continued in other ways.
[5:18] Speaker 1: In the Jim Crow era, there were a few beaches
[5:20] Speaker 1: around the country that were set aside for Black recreation.
[5:24] Speaker 1: These were places where Black people would not face the
[5:27] Speaker 1: harassment and hostility they often encountered at other beaches.
[5:32] Speaker 4: So Inkwell.
[5:34] Speaker 2: was the name designated to a beach where African Americans
[5:37] Speaker 2: were legally allowed to be at. The name itself is,
[5:41] Speaker 2: as to my racist connotations, because there was a belief
[5:45] Speaker 2: that our skin would make the water dirty because we
[5:48] Speaker 2: were dark. And so that's why they were called inkwells,
[5:51] Speaker 2: you know, like an inkwell that they use for pens
[5:54] Speaker 2: and writing.
[5:56] Speaker 1: For decades after the official rules changed, people of color
[6:00] Speaker 1: were informally, sometimes violently, barred from enjoying common natural resources
[6:06] Speaker 1: like the beach. Mickey Dora, policing Malibu in a Nazi uniform,
[6:11] Speaker 1: was a horrible example of what they faced.
[6:14] Speaker 2: Which is interesting considering his own immigrant status, you know,
[6:18] Speaker 2: coming here from Hungary.
[6:20] Speaker 4: But, you know, a lot of.
[6:22] Speaker 2: People who are racist and have to hold those ideals,
[6:24] Speaker 2: it comes from a lot of insecurity on their own part.
[6:28] Speaker 1: Chelsea and Martina are not fans of Mickey.
[6:32] Speaker 2: I think he was the first one who really coined
[6:35] Speaker 2: localism as, if you live here, you can surf here.
[6:38] Speaker 2: If you don't live here, you can't surf here, right?
[6:41] Speaker 2: What does that mean to be allowed to be on
[6:45] Speaker 2: a beach, right? That automatically excludes a certain group of
[6:48] Speaker 2: people because, you know, when my grandmother was alive, she
[6:51] Speaker 2: would have been arrested for going onto a beach.
[6:53] Speaker 4: It was illegal for her to go to a beach.
[6:56] Speaker 1: Localism, and the way it was championed by people like
[6:59] Speaker 1: Mickey Dora, embedded these exclusionary ideas into the culture of surfing.
[7:05] Speaker 1: Exclusivity was tolerated, accepted, celebrated.
[7:12] Speaker 2: Even though we do not have legal inkwells anymore, we
[7:16] Speaker 2: have still, in a way, inkwells, right? So like there's
[7:20] Speaker 2: a part of Florida, North Florida, where I believe you
[7:23] Speaker 2: have to drive 10 miles before you can get to
[7:26] Speaker 2: a public accessible beach, right?
[7:28] Speaker 4: So everyone... The community.
[7:30] Speaker 2: Is forced on this little stretch of beach land while
[7:34] Speaker 2: this entire coastline is open to either who has homes
[7:38] Speaker 2: on that coastline.
[7:40] Speaker 4: Who is allowed, who is friends of friends of that coastline.
[7:43] Speaker 1: There were consequences to these policies and this informal culture
[7:47] Speaker 1: of exclusion. Generations of Black and brown children in this
[7:51] Speaker 1: country were unfairly denied a connection to the ocean, to surfing,
[7:56] Speaker 1: to swimming, to the beach itself.
[8:00] Speaker 2: We've been stripped of our rights of aquatic culture. Like,
[8:06] Speaker 2: how do you learn to swim if you're not allowed
[8:08] Speaker 2: in a pool to swim?
[8:09] Speaker 4: And this is generations deep.
[8:11] Speaker 2: And we see the very devastating results from that. There
[8:14] Speaker 2: was a great study done with Hurricane Katrina. They looked
[8:17] Speaker 2: at all the drownings in Hurricane Katrina. And the theory
[8:20] Speaker 2: was that I believe 60% of those drownings would have
[8:24] Speaker 2: been prevented with basic swimming skills.
[8:26] Speaker 4: So, like, this has had real consequences.
[8:30] Speaker 1: Exclusion, Martina says, is dangerous.
[8:35] Speaker 2: Children and our people have drowned and died because for
[8:39] Speaker 2: generations we weren't allowed in these spaces. And if your
[8:42] Speaker 2: parents don't know how to swim, they're not going to
[8:44] Speaker 2: take you to learn how to swim. If they have
[8:46] Speaker 2: a fear of the ocean, you're going to have a
[8:47] Speaker 2: fear of the ocean. And we all know the one
[8:50] Speaker 2: thing you.
[8:50] Speaker 4: Do when you're in water... is not to panic. That's
[8:53] Speaker 4: how you prevent drowning.
[8:54] Speaker 2: But like, if you've grown up with this fear around
[8:56] Speaker 2: water and aquatic bodies, you're going to panic, you know?
[9:09] Speaker 2: So yeah, it's a lot to unpack.
[9:17] Speaker 1: Even with all this hate and exclusion, There was a
[9:20] Speaker 1: well-known black surfer in the golden age of surfing. His
[9:25] Speaker 1: name was Nick Gabaldon. He was an accomplished waterman and athlete,
[9:30] Speaker 1: and a beacon for black surfers today. But he met
[9:34] Speaker 1: a tragic end in Malibu. In Santa Monica, there was
[9:56] Speaker 1: a 200-foot area of Bay Street Beach that was roped
[10:00] Speaker 1: off for the use of Black people. Unlike other beaches
[10:04] Speaker 1: in Southern California, where harassment of Black beachgoers was common,
[10:09] Speaker 1: it was one of the few spots where Black people
[10:11] Speaker 1: could enjoy the ocean. It was known, problematically, as the
[10:16] Speaker 1: Santa Monica Inkwell. In the 1940s, that was where Nick
[10:21] Speaker 1: Gabaldon borrowed a board from a lifeguard and learned to surf.
[10:26] Speaker 1: He heard the waves were better in Malibu. but he
[10:29] Speaker 1: didn't have a car. And when he tried to hitchhike,
[10:32] Speaker 1: he didn't have a lot of luck. He didn't let
[10:35] Speaker 1: that stop him, though. He got on his board, got
[10:39] Speaker 1: in the water, and paddled there.
[10:42] Speaker 3: You know, Nick Gabaldon had to paddle 12 miles to
[10:47] Speaker 3: Malibu to even surf that beach. He's one of the
[10:51] Speaker 3: first documented African-American and Mexican surfers.
[10:58] Speaker 1: It was an extraordinary feat of athleticism. And when Nick
[11:02] Speaker 1: had finished surfing, he'd paddle 12 miles back. Nick Gabaldon
[11:11] Speaker 1: was part of the Malibu scene in the late 40s
[11:13] Speaker 1: and early 50s. And eventually, he made friends with the
[11:17] Speaker 1: surfers there, and they would give him rides. On a
[11:21] Speaker 1: beach full of white surfers, Nick stood apart. Vicki Flaxman,
[11:26] Speaker 1: one of the early Malibu surfers, remembers him.
[11:31] Speaker 5: He was a little bit older. He was in his
[11:33] Speaker 5: early 20s, I think, because he'd been in the service.
[11:36] Speaker 5: And so he started surfing after that.
[11:40] Speaker 1: After graduating from Santa Monica High in 1945, he'd enlisted
[11:44] Speaker 1: in the Navy. After the war, he was attending Santa
[11:47] Speaker 1: Monica College and working as a postman.
[11:51] Speaker 5: He was very handsome and a sweetheart. He was very,
[11:55] Speaker 5: very sweet. And he didn't just plunge into the Malibu scene.
[12:00] Speaker 5: He just wanted to surf. And he got to be
[12:04] Speaker 5: friends with a lot of the guys. I think he
[12:06] Speaker 5: was kind of shy around the girls. He didn't, I mean,
[12:09] Speaker 5: he was friendly, but he was very shy and kind
[12:12] Speaker 5: of reserved.
[12:15] Speaker 1: Vicki didn't know much about him or his context, but
[12:19] Speaker 1: she does remember the story of his tragic death. It
[12:24] Speaker 1: was June 5, 1951. There was a big south swell
[12:29] Speaker 1: with 8 to 10-foot waves. Nick paddled out and caught
[12:33] Speaker 1: a big wave and took off on it, heading straight
[12:36] Speaker 1: for the Malibu Pier.
[12:41] Speaker 5: I had been surfing the day before, and I knew
[12:43] Speaker 5: the surf was still up. And I don't know why
[12:46] Speaker 5: I just didn't go up that day. But I knew
[12:50] Speaker 5: I felt something. I felt something really weird. And I
[12:55] Speaker 5: called my girlfriend, Claire. It was about 2.30 in the afternoon.
[13:00] Speaker 5: And I thought, why am I calling her? She's up there.
[13:02] Speaker 5: She's observing. There's no reason that she'd be home. But
[13:06] Speaker 5: she was. And I said, what happened? Why are you home?
[13:11] Speaker 5: And she said, Nick hit the pier. And they can't
[13:17] Speaker 5: find him. They haven't found him. And, you know, everybody
[13:22] Speaker 5: was bereft. Because the guys, all the guys, you know,
[13:27] Speaker 5: ran down there, ran up on the pier, tried to
[13:32] Speaker 5: get as close to the pilings as they could, and
[13:35] Speaker 5: they couldn't find him.
[13:38] Speaker 1: His body washed up days later, miles away. He was
[13:43] Speaker 1: just 24 years old. Unlike Mickey Dora, who was documented
[13:53] Speaker 1: excessively throughout his life and became a California folk hero,
[13:58] Speaker 1: Nick Gabaldon's legacy was lost for many years. In the mid-70s,
[14:04] Speaker 1: a surfer named Rick Blocker read an open letter that
[14:08] Speaker 1: another surfer, Tony Corley, had published in Surfer Magazine. Corley
[14:14] Speaker 1: called on his Black Surfing Brothers to come together and
[14:18] Speaker 1: form a Black Surfing Association. Mother Ocean knows no prejudices,
[14:25] Speaker 1: Corley wrote. Blocker answered the call, becoming one of the
[14:30] Speaker 1: first members of the Black Surfing Association. And eventually, he
[14:34] Speaker 1: started researching the life and legacy of Nick Gabaldon. He
[14:40] Speaker 1: sees Gabaldon as hugely significant for surfers today, a reminder
[14:45] Speaker 1: that Black people have been surfing in California for just
[14:49] Speaker 1: as long as white people. That's exactly the kind of
[14:53] Speaker 1: thing Textured Waves is doing, with one crucial difference. Martina Duran.
[15:00] Speaker 2: That's one thing that we're trying to do at Textured Waves.
[15:03] Speaker 2: We're trying to document some of these amazing surfers while
[15:06] Speaker 2: they're still alive, you know, so that history is captured.
[15:13] Speaker 1: A few years ago, a plaque was erected at Bay
[15:15] Speaker 1: Street in Santa Monica. to honor Nick Gabaldon and the
[15:19] Speaker 1: beach that was once called the Inkwell.
[15:24] Speaker 3: We celebrate him every year in Malibu, the Black Surfers Collective.
[15:30] Speaker 1: Chelsea Woody again.
[15:32] Speaker 3: They get together every year and they recreate the paddle out.
[15:37] Speaker 3: It's like a big celebration. A bunch of Black surfers
[15:41] Speaker 3: and supporters and allies get together, eat on the beach,
[15:45] Speaker 3: we surf, and we also just You know, wait for
[15:49] Speaker 3: these folks to come and paddle and, you know, cheer
[15:52] Speaker 3: them on as they arrive to the beach.
[15:57] Speaker 1: The event, which takes place in June each year around
[16:00] Speaker 1: the time of his death, honors Gabaldon and his memory.
[16:05] Speaker 1: And it also reinforces the bonds around the growing Black
[16:09] Speaker 1: surf community. Chelsea and Martina both learned to surf later
[16:23] Speaker 1: in life. Martina was in college when she did a
[16:26] Speaker 1: semester abroad in Costa Rica and took her first surf lesson.
[16:30] Speaker 1: Chelsea was even older.
[16:31] Speaker 3: I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, kind of in
[16:37] Speaker 3: a suburb outside of Seattle. So I didn't grow up
[16:41] Speaker 3: in the ocean or having much ocean knowledge at all.
[16:45] Speaker 3: I had seen surfing in the The movie theaters, the
[16:48] Speaker 3: first time I saw it was watching Blue Crush. And
[16:51] Speaker 3: I always wanted to do it since I was in
[16:54] Speaker 3: high school, but just never had the opportunity.
[16:58] Speaker 1: At 30, she and her husband decided to quit their
[17:00] Speaker 1: jobs and travel and ended up spending time in Indonesia.
[17:06] Speaker 3: Never got the courage to do it until we kind
[17:09] Speaker 3: of took a bigger risk in our life, you know,
[17:13] Speaker 3: quitting our jobs and traveling. And I just thought it
[17:16] Speaker 3: would be a good time for me to try to surf.
[17:20] Speaker 3: And so we went to Indonesia and stayed there for
[17:23] Speaker 3: a month and taught ourselves how to surf. When I
[17:29] Speaker 3: first started in Indonesia, I was one of the only
[17:33] Speaker 3: brown women that looked like me in the line of,
[17:36] Speaker 3: even though I'm in a place with a lot of
[17:39] Speaker 3: brown folks, there was a lot of tourists and Indonesian
[17:44] Speaker 3: men And they all called me sister.
[17:47] Speaker 4: So, you.
[17:49] Speaker 3: Know, I think they recognize like you are like me,
[17:52] Speaker 3: but we haven't seen a ton of women like you.
[17:57] Speaker 3: One thing they called me also was Obama, which I
[18:01] Speaker 3: thought was really interesting. I mean, he was very popular
[18:06] Speaker 3: in Indonesia when he was president. You know, like Obama,
[18:09] Speaker 3: go on that wave. I didn't know how to feel
[18:12] Speaker 3: about that. And when I did come home, it made
[18:18] Speaker 3: me realize, like, wow, people around the world don't even
[18:22] Speaker 3: see Black women or brown women as surfers. That needs
[18:25] Speaker 3: to change.
[18:29] Speaker 1: After Indonesia, Chelsea and her husband made a big decision.
[18:34] Speaker 3: We kind of uprooted our lives in the Pacific Northwest
[18:40] Speaker 3: to live on the coast of California and surf every day.
[18:44] Speaker 1: They moved to Santa Cruz, California.
[18:48] Speaker 3: It's probably one of the most affected by localism still,
[18:54] Speaker 3: you know, really difficult to break into the surf scene
[18:58] Speaker 3: here and very intimidating. And men will still yell at
[19:02] Speaker 3: you and push you off your board, even like young
[19:06] Speaker 3: children and women. So I have definitely been yelled at
[19:11] Speaker 3: a lot in this town by grown men.
[19:14] Speaker 2: You just immediately get hassled before you even get in
[19:17] Speaker 2: the water. So it's unfortunate because surfing should be a
[19:22] Speaker 2: very peaceful, tranquil thing, but somehow the aggression gets out.
[19:29] Speaker 3: And it always amazes me how comfortable men are in
[19:34] Speaker 3: the water just yelling at a woman or a child.
[19:39] Speaker 3: And in no situation on land would they be comfortable
[19:42] Speaker 3: doing that. it is embarrassing, you know, so it is,
[19:46] Speaker 3: it is a hard place to learn to surf. And
[19:49] Speaker 3: I think, um, you do have to adapt and have
[19:54] Speaker 3: to learn quickly to make it around here because if
[19:59] Speaker 3: you can't surf or if you're not following the rules,
[20:04] Speaker 3: people don't give you a chance.
[20:07] Speaker 4: That sounds harsh and it's changing.
[20:09] Speaker 3: But I've definitely had interactions here in the water, for sure.
[20:16] Speaker 3: People are not always so kind.
[20:19] Speaker 2: It's just such a contrast to, like, where I live. Like,
[20:24] Speaker 2: I think about how fortunate I am.
[20:29] Speaker 1: Martina also moved away from the Confederate flag boards she
[20:33] Speaker 1: encountered in Florida to Hawaii.
[20:37] Speaker 2: Here, I've been encouraged to expand my relationship with the ocean. Like,
[20:42] Speaker 2: I've started canoe surfing and racing and all this stuff.
[20:47] Speaker 2: And everyone just wants to help you. And I just
[20:51] Speaker 2: couldn't imagine. I don't know that I would be still
[20:54] Speaker 2: surfing if I was in a place like Santa Cruz.
[20:57] Speaker 2: You definitely would have to have some very thick skin. Well,
[21:00] Speaker 2: for cold too as well, but thick skin for the
[21:02] Speaker 2: words and for the cold. But it just shows that
[21:06] Speaker 2: how important that is to just be accepting. That's Not
[21:12] Speaker 2: fun for anyone, especially when you're younger and you're still
[21:15] Speaker 2: trying to develop that identity. I can only imagine how
[21:17] Speaker 2: that feels to be constantly told you don't belong here
[21:21] Speaker 2: and to be bullied out of a space.
[21:23] Speaker 4: And you know what I mean? Because the ocean is
[21:25] Speaker 4: really for everyone.
[21:27] Speaker 1: For Chelsea and Martina, surfing is a refuge. And they
[21:31] Speaker 1: don't want it to be a battleground. Especially during the pandemic,
[21:37] Speaker 1: Chelsea says, surfing was essential.
[21:41] Speaker 3: I am a nurse, and I was so happy to
[21:44] Speaker 3: have surfing as an outlet. Luckily, you can kind of
[21:48] Speaker 3: do it in isolation if you're strategic about it. So
[21:53] Speaker 3: it was, yeah, so important for me to have during
[21:56] Speaker 3: that time. I don't think I would have made it
[21:59] Speaker 3: through mentally if I didn't have surfing.
[22:03] Speaker 1: And that's a big part of what they want to
[22:05] Speaker 1: put out there, the message they want to spread to
[22:08] Speaker 1: future Black surfers. These spaces, the beaches, the ocean, they
[22:15] Speaker 1: belong to you too. They're there for your leisure and enjoyment.
[22:22] Speaker 3: I think for it to be the leisure to actually
[22:25] Speaker 3: be leisurely is my hope, you know, that it isn't
[22:31] Speaker 3: a struggle of do I belong here? Am I supposed
[22:33] Speaker 3: to surf at this spot? Should I park here? Will
[22:37] Speaker 3: somebody vandalize my car because I parked here? And so, yeah,
[22:41] Speaker 3: I just hope that it, you know, folks of color
[22:45] Speaker 3: feel that they belong in spaces of leisure and outdoor
[22:49] Speaker 3: spaces and aquatic spaces. I want it to be normal
[22:54] Speaker 3: for our children and, you know, the generations beyond us
[23:00] Speaker 3: to be surfers, to be outdoor surfers, people to own
[23:04] Speaker 3: land at the beach, to, you know, have access to
[23:08] Speaker 3: see themselves represented.
[23:11] Speaker 1: Just like Mickey Dora, Chelsea is seeking freedom in surfing.
[23:17] Speaker 1: But her definition of freedom couldn't be more different from Mickey's.
[23:22] Speaker 1: He wanted to live a life without responsibilities. She just
[23:28] Speaker 1: wants to feel safe.
[23:30] Speaker 3: And I think that The ultimate level of freedom is
[23:34] Speaker 3: to be able to walk into a space autonomously and
[23:37] Speaker 3: feel comfortable.
[23:41] Speaker 1: Above all, the women of Textured Waves want to spread
[23:44] Speaker 1: the message that surfing is fun.
[23:48] Speaker 2: We started this because of our passion for surfing and
[23:51] Speaker 2: not any resentment for being held out of it. I
[23:55] Speaker 2: think that is what drives us to do what we do.
[23:57] Speaker 2: We're passionate about this. And because we are so passionate
[24:01] Speaker 2: about this, we want other Black women to discover this
[24:03] Speaker 2: passion because it is an amazing passion to have.
[24:06] Speaker 4: It's a good addiction to have.
[24:08] Speaker 2: So that's what drives us every day during this. And
[24:13] Speaker 2: I think that's important to say because I know with
[24:16] Speaker 2: our history, trauma comes up a lot.
[24:18] Speaker 4: And that is something that we are fully aware of.
[24:21] Speaker 4: But this sport brings us joy.
[24:25] Speaker 2: And that's why we do what we do is because
[24:27] Speaker 2: of the joy we get from surfing every day.
[24:37] Speaker 1: Lost Hills is written and reported by me, Dana Goodyear.
[24:40] Speaker 1: It's created by me and Ben Adair and produced by
[24:43] Speaker 1: Western Sound and Pushkin Industries. Subscribe to Pushkin Plus and
[24:48] Speaker 1: you can binge the entire season right now ad-free. Find
[24:52] Speaker 1: Pushkin Plus on the Lost Hills show page in Apple
[24:55] Speaker 1: Podcasts or at pushkin.fm slash plus.

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