# Akhnif (Man's Cape)

- By: Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation (Siroua Mountains, Morocco)
- Date: Mid–19th century
- Medium: Wool and cotton: wedge and slit tapestry weave; embroidered with wool and cotton in heavy chain, herring bone, interlacing, and stem stitches; twined and wrapped main warp cut fringe; added wrapped cut fringe and leather binding stitched…
- Classification: Costume and Accessories
- Dimensions: 147.3 × 270.3 cm (58 × 106 1/2 in.)
- Culture: Morocco
- Credit line: Pauline S. Armstrong Endowment
- Museum: [Art Institute of Chicago](https://www.artic.edu/artworks/180974)
- Rights: [Public domain (CC0)](https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)
- Picture: https://www.artic.edu/iiif/2/44628934-bbdc-720a-3403-bcf68e0ae6c2/full/843,/0/default.jpg
- Who can see it: Tweens profiles and older (museums give no ratings; placed by Invisible Network from the museum's own words)

This akhnif, or cape, was handwoven by Amazigh women of the Aït Ouaouzguite region in southern Morocco, on a wide vertical loom and woven entirely to shape, beginning upside-down from the hood. Creating the large motif on the back side required precise control of vertical (warp) tension and complex horizontal (weft) turns in the weave to build a curve, techniques reserved for the most skilled weavers. Male artisans later added the leather binding and other finishes. The prominent motif—known locally as irghis n-ukhnif (“the red of the akhnif” or “eye”)—served both as the garment’s visual focus and as a protective sign centered over the wearer’s back. Akhnif cloaks were worn by both Muslim and Jewish men.

—Hamza Alioua (Moroccan), independent scholar

Description © Art Institute of Chicago, CC BY 4.0